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crusie control. they're askin' around 14500.00
is this a good deal? thanks......
I know Honda also cheapened the Civic's rear suspension when they redesigned the 2001, causing many complaints about a "bouncier" rear end and worse handling than prior models.
While these kinds of suspension changes tend to get the car nuts in an uproar, this particular car nut tends to measure the RESULTS, not the DESIGN. The results seem quite OK to me, but you should try for yourself and form your own opinion.
I have linked this discussion into that folder, but it will always reside here in Sedans.
Looking forward to meeting everyone!
KarenS
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Owners Clubs
Well, in actuality the 03 Corolla handles better overall even with its torsion beam rear. There is a severe bump at the end of a clover-leaf exit ramp I take everyday which serves as a litmus test. With the Civic, the car would hop sideways whenever I take the bump over 35mph. The Corolla has no such problem until at least 40mph. I am not implying that I take that ramp at 40mph every day, but this is my litmus test. For others it may be a curvey, country road, of which there are a scarcity of in DC area.
There is a drawback of the Corolla compared to my older model Civic, not in terms of actual handling, though. That is, the 3-4 inch higher seating position forces me to have to brace harder myself during sharp turns. The Corolla's seats being mushier and not having firm side boosters (like the Impreza WRX), doesn't help in this regard.
Once the temperature equalizes nothing rattles even while going over bumps or revving through the rev range.
Am I unique in my experience?
My 92 Acura has been havings some problems, and the codes have been read twice in the past two weeks. Newer cars have even greater capabilities over and above our 92's.
Good luck.
When I saw the Mazda 6 sedan on a turntable, the first thing I thought was that it looked like a stretched Corolla. The rear and side views in particular; the 6 has a more agressive grill, and smaller headlights.
Approached within 15 feet, stopped, turned around and left (it was an S model). From the 3 road tests I've read since, I don't think we're missing anything.
Just FYI, this would be my daily driver, and the only must have is a manual tranny.
Looking on MSN they state the 94 was available with a 1.8L turbo engine. I would tend to stay away from the turbo for maintenance and reliabilty reasons. Is this appropriate based on your experiences?
In Australia, has they offered a turbo 1.8 Corolla.
Expect the Prizm to be a little cheaper.
Problems? I don't recall any.
apparently, this system is already in place in 3 provinces in canada and one more province to follow around june (B.C.).
i just want to know if you folks in US of A have this type of system at your toyota dealers. if so, which state and are prices more expensive than dealers without this system?
thanks.
http://www.auto.com/reviews/ulrich28_20020228.htm
Anyone out there having AC problems?
That has been the only major problem with my 86 Camry, although it is definitely beginning to show its age, with multiple nagging problems.
However, it keeps getting me to work everyday.
Too early in my evaluation to tell, but there must be some negotiation if they want my business, unless, I can determine their "one price" is competitive.
We shall see.
"Negotiating" does not have to be that excruciating if you deal with the Internet / Fleet people and are reasonable in your expectations [as I've said, $500 over invoice is already being accepted with no questions in Calif, at least], and know what your trade is worth [WHOLESALE, not retail]. In the Corolla deal we currently have on the table [awaiting our car], the dealer is making about 3%.
A fixed price sounds like a good idea until you realize what it really means: dramatically higher prices.
And if negotiating bothers you, use one of the Internet buying services, like CarsDirect, where you can buy it from them or work through one of their dealers. If you opt to buy it from them, their markup works out to be about $100-$200 per car, generally, over and above what the dealer would otherwise charge.
Thank you.
So go figure. . .
Car&Driver
http://www.roadandtrack.com/RoadAndTrack/first_drives/0202_toyota_matrix_and_corolla.html
Jacek
The problem is that this distributorship for this region is not owned by Toyota Motor. It is independently owned, they know they have a good thing, and they are not about to sell it to Toyota at any reasonable price the company wants to pay. The result is what you see: they tack on extra charges at every turn, and make anywhere from $100-$700 or more per car than Toyota extracts from its other regional operations. Due to the iron-clad nature of American franchise laws, there is nothing that the dealers, the customers, or Toyota themselves, can do about this.
The history here goes back to the days when Toyota was a struggling new company in the USA, and needed help getting started in this country. They successfully took over all of the distributorships in the rest of the country as their market presence grew and they became financially stronger, but the people who owned the SE Region knew a gold mine when they saw it, and refused to sell. And here we are...
Can anybody please tell me how much is that fee for real ? I find that fee to be too high.
Thanks
Aaron
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Whoever said something about the SE region adding "useless options," is telling the truth. I went to the Toyota dealer in my area, and I looked at a Camry XLEV6 that had splash guards(Black: $138) Sunroof wind deflector: 90 TOYOGuard: $610 I WILL NEVER EVER PAY FOR THOSE OPTIONS!!!!!!
Also, what really got to me was the fact that on another Camry XLE, this one a 4 cylinder, had leather added to the car which cost more than the optional packages that includes leather, the sunroof and the CD6 changer. That's outrageous! No way, we don't have this problem at the Nissan, Honda, Mazda or VW dealerships.
5spd LE's are made but the vast majority of 5spds are on the S model.
"Port" options are options that are available to the 164 dealers in this region. The vehicles come from the factory to either Commerce, Ga. or Jacksonville, Fl. to S.E.T.'s distribution center where "OPTIONS" (which means you do not have to have if you do not want it) are added to the vehicles. If you want a vehicle with no "port" options, all you have to do is ask. The vehicle will be delivered to the dealer just the way you want it. The time frame should be within 10-15 days if not sooner because we can see what all 164 dealers have in stock, what is at the "port" facilities, what are on the trucks, trains and ships coming into this region and we have the ability to trade and buy vehicles with each other through S.E.T.'s mainframe.
People from everywhere buy from S.E.T. dealers because:
(1) Customer Service
(2) We have the availability of thousands of vehicles every month
(3) Price
(4) Option that you can only get in this region
I would be happy to answer any questions you may have about S.E.T. If I do not know the answer I will find out from the proper people because this region cares about its customers and provides a service that is not equal to anyone else in the United States if not the world.
It's probably OK, and frankly, there isn't anything you or she can do about it now except monitor oil consumption and hope for the best.
I parked the car in a spot with no oil on the ground and checked it the next morning, and there weren't any drips. The engine is also very clean. I've never noticed smoke coming out of my tailpipe either, and neither have my friends when they've driven behind me a couple times.
I've heard that Honda engines tend to burn oil at high RPMs. Could this be true of my car as well? I normally shift at 3000-3500 RPM, but I recently made a 120-mile round trip to a neighboring city where my average speed was 90 MPH (about 4000 RPM). There's also this straight, empty road near my house that I do fast runs on sometimes just for fun. I shift around 5000 RPM then.
Did you change the oil yourself last time? Was it full to the top? A quick lube place might not have filled it correctly, so you may have started with less oil. Or if you used a larger filter, but still put in the usual amount of oil - that could affect the reading.
Also make sure to read the before and after with the car in the same spot. Small slopes on the road can make a large diff in oil readings (my car reads .7 qt less when it is parked on the street than when it is in the garage - because of the crown in the road)
Lay off the high RPM's for 1000 miles? 4-5 weeks? Ugh...high RPMs are the only thing that makes this car fun to drive. :-p