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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    This web site might help all people owning Dodge Minivans. It gives recalls for every year.

    http://www.automotive.com/used-cars/recalls/40/minivans-vans/dodge/grand-caravan/index.htm- l
  • dandydodandydo Member Posts: 1
    Hi.
    I hope this helps. We had a 94 Town and country that did the same thing that your van is doing, except it never died. The power locks and lights would go on and off and the sensor would show that the sliding door was open, but of course, it wasn't. It drove me nuts!!! I had to turn off the rolling locks to keep from burning out the motor for the locks. Anyway, we finally figured out what it was and my husband was able to fix it for 8 dollars. So here's what was happening with our van: there was a thing at the back of the slider ( I can't remember what they called it, the latch?? ). Anyway...if you open the slider and look behind the rear end where it connects to the back fender area, you'll see a small plastic part, cylinder-shaped. You can pull that out, disconnect the wires and put the new part in. It'll look like it doesn't fit, but the first time you shut the door it will adjust the length (it's "telescopic", meaning it will shorten itself to fit the van door space). The only tricky part is trying to maneuver you and the door so you can get the part out, but once you figure that out, it's a snap. Literally. I hope this helps....our van was normal again after this (before it acted like it was possessed!)
  • andrew13andrew13 Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I recently replaced my fuel injector seals on my 91Grand Caravan 3.3L V6. After putting it back together and starting the engine, the idle is extremely high. The butterfly flap inside the throttle body is not stuck. The cables seem fine. Is there an adjustment I haven't made somewhere? Do I need to replace my Automatic Idle Speed motor? Any suggestions?
    Thanks
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Off hand guess: Vacuum leak, probably one of your seals didn't seal.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Your problem is the cluster gauges themselves.

    The Powertrain Control Module controls both the tachometer and the speedometer.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Recheck the connector pins on the Idle Air Speed Motor. If they're okay it does sound like a vacuum leak. On that age of a car the rubber hoses are probably started to deteriorate, get brittle and crack. During your seal replacement you may have disturbed one and it broke.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Your message indicated that the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires might only be a year old. If that's true, are they Chrysler parts or were they aftermarket replacements? I've seen aftermarket stuff cause problems, especially plug wires.

    The possibility is a weak ignition coil. The white look to the plugs is generally a good sign. I agree with your technician, Autolite plugs do not last long in Chrysler products.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • mitch7mitch7 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 dodge caravan 3 speed auto. It stays in first gear until 30 mph shifts smooth then stays in second gear till 52 mph before going into third smooth. De-acceleration is the same into second at 52 then first at 30. Any ideas as to what a solution or fix might be? Thanks!
  • cheeseruinercheeseruiner Member Posts: 3
    thank you Dusty. i don't know if they are aftermarket, it's true that they were replaced when i had a full tune up done. so, it's possible that the wires and cap and rotor were not made specifically for Chryslers? i see where you're going here. If it's a weak ignition coil, are we solving the problem by getting new wires, plugs, rotor and cap from Chrysler? If i go to Chrysler and have this done, a little over $800, do you think this might take care of the problem?

    thanks again
  • georgiavangeorgiavan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Dodge G/C-van. All exterior lights stopped working via the dashboard switch. Brake lights, blinkers, backup lights work with respective function... Can pull steering column lever and high beams come on, but again -- nothing with the dashboard console switch... Everything else works fine. Called dealer -- he said BCM $700.... Wondering if any other options.. Seems rather extreme...
    Thanks.
  • dennisctcdennisctc Member Posts: 1,168
    Is ANYONE having ANY problems with their 2005???? I check out other chats i.e.. Honda's and there's tons of issues! I see on Motorweek a long term test of Oddy and their issues. Are the 2005 DCX vans perfect???

    I love mine!!!! just wondering why so quiet :)
  • alemonalemon Member Posts: 1
    We had our 94 transmission rebuilt at about 100,000 miles in the fall at the dodge dealership. 2 days later, our van started jolting and slipping on the interstate and they reportedly replaced the transmission after much yelling and screaming. Here we are less than a year later and our check engine light is constantly on (codes are for battery disconnect and oxygen sensor???) and now the airbag light is on, as well. When trying to pick up speed fast, the van jolts and sometimes will not gain any speed at all. My friend said it felt like the van was switching into neutral. The motor is not revving up, either. Sometimes when slowing down to make a turn, or pulling out of a parking space, it just turns off. Can anyone make any useful suggestions of what could be a plausible reason for any of this so we don't get screwed at a mechanics??
    I've heard something about a CAM sensor or perhaps getting a fuel filter replacement??
    Thanks
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    That's because they are out enjoying their minivan driving experience. :P . But really, no minivan is perfect. We do own a Daimlerchrysler minivan that has been very reliable for us though.
  • jac57jac57 Member Posts: 1
    We bought this van 2 months ago with 95k miles. About a month ago the electrical system was "posessed", gauges would go back and forth like windshield wipers, turn signal would click and two or three times the normal speed, and finally the car would not start. The mechanic changed out the relays and everything was fine for a couple of weeks. Last night the car wouldn't start, got a jump which lasted until we got home. Turned off the car, massive clicking, and all electrical units off. The car battery was replaced in November 2004 and the radio/CD player is also a replacement (no date for that). At this point I'm guessing that the previous owners thought that the radio was the problem, changed the battery, and when that didn't work, traded it in. Help?1
  • soccermom8soccermom8 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with the dash lights in my 96 voyager. I cannot see how fast I am going after dark. Were you able to find your problem? We have checked fuses, bulbs, and put in a brand new switch. My husband has had the dash apart a few times and it has been to the garage twice. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated as this problem has given me grief for the last 6 months.
    Thank you,
    Chris
  • gvdeadgvdead Member Posts: 2
    OK, here goes. My Voyager 96 (later computer) goes OK for a distance (8miles or so) then stumbles and eventually will die. Tach goes to zero when bucking. This stranded me 3 different times on the highway in Jan. -20 or lower temp. Roadside repairs attempted were: Camshaft Position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, coil pack. After the first time, a garage gave it a tuneup: plugs, wires, filter. I replaced the computer and it worked for a long time till this week(with the engine light on). I decided to try and remove that problem before Vacation. Auto zone computer checker said EGR valve. I replaced and light went out. Everything went good on vacation. Got back and 1500 miles after the EGR light problem fixed, it started doing the buck and die routine from Jan. again. It was raining. :sick: Help..........
  • gvdeadgvdead Member Posts: 2
    I just put up a post for my Grand Voy 96. Similar issues if not worse. Mine would never restsrt in Jan. could have been the cold. Had it towed 3 times. I put in all sorts of stuff, including crank and cam position sensers, and a computer... still having problems (renewed this week)
    gvdead
  • twinsmomtwinsmom Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 Chrysler T&C Limited quit on the highway today! Of course at rush hour and I was on the left shoulder. All of a sudden, it just lost power. It just died and would not start again. The alternator would work the accessories, but the engine would not start....and no, I was not out of gas! It was towed in to the dealership, and they will look at it on June 23.
    We had another problem with the radio. Intermittently, the radio would have no sound. It seems to happen more frequently after we have used the DVD player. to solve this, you must turn the engine off, open the door, and start it back up. Of course, it never does it at the dealership!
    I hope this is one of those unusual incidents, but I have to say that it was pretty scary sitting on the left shoulder with cars and trucks going by at 75-80 miles an hour in 98 degree weather.
    I'm sorry to be a buzz kill to those who are out enjoying their van....we enjoy it when it works! :sick:
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    That's a shame. Did it happen this morning? I would have thought they could have found the problem by now. Keep us informed
  • dennisctcdennisctc Member Posts: 1,168
    How long have you had your T&C? Mileage?
  • rktechrktech Member Posts: 25
    Now I know this isn't necessarily a crushing disaster type of problem, but the sunroof on my van leaks...the drains in the front corners apparently kink as they make their way into the A pillars, down and out...they fill with silt and debris and don't drain. The collar inside the sunroof housing fills with water and it makes it's way out through any available opening...drips from the visor screw holes...handle screw holes...shoots down the inside of the windshield from the headliner joint when braking...it's a mess...this on a 35k + Daimler vehicle...stupid, don't you think ?? I've taken to blowing the damn things out periodically with a steam nozzle, otherwise my dealer has to pull the headliner to play around, and never solves the problem (twice they've tried). Maybe Daimler should install a non kinking PVC tube at the pillar ??

    Anyway, thanks for letting me rant a bit...
  • mfaymfay Member Posts: 2
    I am the original owner of a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan SE with 98k+ miles. While my wife was driving home today she noticed all the lights on the instrument panel were out and the gauges for speed, fuel level, etc were indicating zero. I read in an earlier message re: a 1992 Voyager, that the problem was traced to a bad computer. Indicators for "Check Engine Soon" and "ABS" were illuminated. Any advice that leads me to a quick and economical solution will be greatly appreciated.
    The engine starts, the radio operates, the ignition key insert chime functions.
  • slu71slu71 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    I need to replace the motor mounts on my van. I just bought two yesterday from Autozone, the type covered in rubber. A few questions:
    1. Are there only two motor mounts (distinct from the transmission mount)?
    2. Is this a repair I can do without a press (i.e., something to hold the engine up while I replace them)? It appears like they're accessible, but I don't want to be unscrewing my mounts and have the engine crush me to death.
    3. Do I need any special tools?

    Thanks!
  • ntbillntbill Member Posts: 20
    I AM A REAL DODGE CARAVAN 2005 OWNER ;)

    Hahaha, just to make sure you don't think I'm a Honda owner, like twinsome.

    I have a Dodge Caravan 2005, 5000 km (about 3100 miles) on it, had my first oil change (every 5000 km), no major problem, except a left front impact sensor for air bags which had to be replaced under warranty.

    This van runs just great, but I can't stop myself from worrying about the transmission. I know that it is a lot better since 2001, but with all the posts about earlier models with transmission problems, I still worry a little bit about my 2005 transmission. Hopefully, I will only have to do my transmission oil change on schedule and everything will be fine.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    You should be okay with the trans. We have a 2001 DGC EX with over 61K with no trans. problems. Our trans, has been serviced at 34K and 56K. My advice to you would be to only have a Daimlerchrysler dealer service your trans., nobody else. Because they are the only one's that have the type of trans. fluid for your trans. Most of the past trans. problems from the 90's was due to the wrong trans. fluid being put in and for everything being to tight under the hood where as the heat from the engine could not escape, which made the trans. fluid brake down sooner then later and cause all kinds of problems. :)
  • samc1samc1 Member Posts: 1
    Break lights and the ABS lights in the instrument panel in my 1992 Caravan stay for about 5 minutes before they go off when I start the van in the morning. When I run the van, stops and starts the engine again, this doesn't happen. Then both ABS and break lights go off with other lights in the instrument panel.

    when the ABS and break lights are on, I can hear a humming noise in or close to the break pump and the breaks of the van is considerably low.

    The Van has been recalled for break defects and fixed by the dealer about 7 years ago.
    Any idea or suggestion is welcome
    Thank You
  • matt20matt20 Member Posts: 2
    Hi guys. Hopefully you can help me. I have a 1998 Grand Caravan SE, and the suddenly the speedometer and tachometer stopped working as if the car was off. Everything else seems to be working fine. No "check engine" lights or anything.

    So any ideas as to what I should do? Thanks!
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Member Posts: 70
    When that happened to my 98 T&C, it was the battery. Got a new battery and never had the problem again in 60,000 miles.

    C.B.
  • westforkwestfork Member Posts: 1
    2002 Chrysler T&C.3 out of 4 of the rear bulbs do not work when braking. Swapped the bulbs to the location of the socket that is working, and the bulbs work in that one socket, but none of the other bulbs work in their own socket even though the bulbs are good. Parking filaments do work.Center brake light Ok. Any ideas?
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    Sounds like it might be a lose wire. Doubt it would be a fuse but you might want to check them both out.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Member Posts: 350
    There were a few posts some pages back regarding various fixes for your symptoms, you should check around for them. There was a very detailed description about servicing the electronics of a computer component that led into the tach/speedo assembly a few posts ago as well.

    good luck
  • mattnaylormattnaylor Member Posts: 1
    I have a Gnd Voyager 2000 with 74000 miles, and recently the engine put a rod through the block as a result of water being taken up after driving (a friend drove!) into a flood. Not sure if I should upgrade now or repair and keep. Insurance will cover the repairs, but I am worried about other problems that may come about - either as a result of the age of the car in general, as a result of the new engine (i.e. more power through the older transmission), or due to other unknown water damage. We want a reliable car we can take family vacations in, and this van now makes me nervous. Any ideas? I like the Chyrsler T&C 2005. Should I keep the GV and drive it into the ground, or will it start failing me? Is the Chyrsler T&C 2005 a good replacement?
  • dennisctcdennisctc Member Posts: 1,168
    but I am worried about other problems that may come about - either as a result of the age of the car in general, as a result of the new engine (i.e. more power through the older transmission), or due to other unknown water damage

    I'd get it repaired, then sell it. Speaking from an electrical standpoint, you might start having electrical gremlins due to water damage...corrosion of terminals. If you were keeping it for local jaunts...fine, but family vacations....Hmmmm, I'd get the 2005 T&C. IMO
  • lhjlhj Member Posts: 3
    I own a 96 Gr.Caravan 3.3, 4 speed. I stopped my van put it in park and removed the key. When I try to start it again nothing happens. The instrument panel shows that it is in Reverse although it is in Park. When I try to move it to Neutral the shifter will move but the N doesn't light up and the van still won't work.

    Any ideas?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    A weak coil can be masked by spark plugs and plug wires in new condition, but as the plugs wear and the wire insulation becomes embrittled, not having enough spark voltage can result in a misfire.

    With respect to the aftermarket parts comment, I've seen a lot of aftermarket ignition components that are not up to the grade of factory equipped. No matter what I'm working on, I always use factory ignition parts, especially the wires and plugs. I (almost) never cross plugs from one make to another.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My first thought is the shift cable (from the gear shift lever to the transmission) has broken.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    How's the engine run? This could be the result of a speed-distance sensor failure. Or, you may have a fuse open or other electrical problem.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    My first thought is the shift cable (from the gear shift lever to the transmission) has broken.

    or came loose. Not sure what holds them together but it could be just a broken carter key or nut that came loose and fell off.. But I think Dusty is right on with the problem.
  • rrichersrrichers Member Posts: 1
    My wife has a 2001 T & C. She recently pulled her cell phone charger out of the power outlet (the upper outlet, not the one run directly from the battery) and a fuse (an old style small glass cylinder with metal caps on both ends) attached to a spring, and a ring-like part popped out. Now the radio doesn't work. I checked on the cover of the Integrated Power Module and it says nothing about the radio.

    I assume this fuse is for both this power outlet and the radio, but I have no idea about how to get it back in.

    Can anyone help?
  • dougt2dougt2 Member Posts: 3
    Hi

    I have a 98 Gr Caravan with exactly the same problem. Runs fine but the instrument cluster is intermittent. After searching the forum for answers, so far I've

    - removed the instrument cluster, removed and reinstalled the connector
    - replaced the battery
    - checked the codes in the instrument cluster readout by holding the trip/odo buttons and turning it on
    - removed and reinstalled the IDO fuse

    any other ideas?
    - replace instrument cluster circuit board $370?
    - replace computer?

    thanks
    doug
  • dennisctcdennisctc Member Posts: 1,168
    I don't think you can replace just the circuit board? I would replace the entire instrument cluster...maybe pick one up in junk yard? Swap it out
  • matt20matt20 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks guys. CB wins the prize. After I posted this I went out and couldn't crank the van at all. Replaced battery, problem solved.

    It was a Sears Diehard gold that died after only 14 months. Luckily it was still under warranty.
  • bg7163bg7163 Member Posts: 3
    This has nothing to do with a Grand Caravan or a Dodge Dakota but I've been reading your posts about both vehicles' speedometer issues and you seem to know a lot so I would like your opinion regarding my problem. With my 98 Honda Civic LX Sedan, the engine light came on around 50,870 miles and the primary o2 sensor was replaced. It ran fairly well until this past winter when the gas mileage got down to as low as 20 mpg. The exhaust manifold was found to be cracked and leaking. The dealer replaced the manifold/cat converter, both gaskets, and nuts per emissions warranty, at 78,843 miles, 3/23/05. Then, yesterday, the engine light came on again. Checked gas cap, etc., per owner's manual instructions, no problem found. Continued driving. Discovered the speedometer, odometer, trip meter and the cruise control was no longer working and the automatic transmission started jerking around at lower speeds, when slowing for a stop sign or accelerating. What's going on??? Can I continue driving this car until it can be fixed? ??? Can I even drive it to the dealer 45 miles away???? Any guidance would be appreciated.
  • lhjlhj Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the help!
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    Are the bolts that hold the seat to the frame the same for the LX, eX, LXi, and Limited the same?
    The higher priced T&C seem to have a more comfortable seat (the ones with the separately adjustable head rest). ;)
    My T&C LX has a wiring harness under the driver's seat. Is that the same wiring harness that the power seat of higher priced T&C minivans use? :blush:
  • mfaymfay Member Posts: 2
    Since my first post I have learned the following about this failure:
    I started the van two days latter and the instrument cluster operator correctly. The "service engine soon" light remained on. I went to the local AutoZone and they hooked up their hand held OBD2 terminal and obtained failure code P1698 - Manufacturer controls - Auxiliary Inputs and Auxiliary Outputs. A second employee doubled checked the codes with the same unit and no codes were displayed. The AutoZone computer data base did not list P1698.
    I did pull the battery leads and clean the contacts. The alarm is gone and I have not seen any symptoms since. :confuse:
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    It really seems strange what a weak battery can do to the instrument lights on these vans. One would never believe it possible. I guess with all the electrical stuff on these vans, it does happen though.
  • dennisctcdennisctc Member Posts: 1,168
    I doubt DCX would use different bolts for different seats...they should all be the same. I would also guess the wiring harness is the same too. You should be able to install power seat without problems.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    Thanks. I like everything about the van but the uncomfortable front and middle seats. ;)
    Sadly, I cannot just put the left half of the rear 50/50 split seat into the driver's seat location as the rear seat is VERY comfortable.
  • bbmombbmom Member Posts: 4
    The battery was replaced today but it somehow stopped the radio/CD player from working. The bass/mid/treb lights flash continuously. The mechanic (not a dealership) thinks it is due to the anti theft system but can't remember how to get the radio working again. No info in the manual. Mechanic checked all fuses and they are fine. Anyone have this problem ? What do the flashing lights mean ? How do I fix this ? Thanks !
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