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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dennisctcdennisctc Posts: 1,168
    Is ANYONE having ANY problems with their 2005???? I check out other chats i.e.. Honda's and there's tons of issues! I see on Motorweek a long term test of Oddy and their issues. Are the 2005 DCX vans perfect???

    I love mine!!!! just wondering why so quiet :)
  • alemonalemon Posts: 1
    We had our 94 transmission rebuilt at about 100,000 miles in the fall at the dodge dealership. 2 days later, our van started jolting and slipping on the interstate and they reportedly replaced the transmission after much yelling and screaming. Here we are less than a year later and our check engine light is constantly on (codes are for battery disconnect and oxygen sensor???) and now the airbag light is on, as well. When trying to pick up speed fast, the van jolts and sometimes will not gain any speed at all. My friend said it felt like the van was switching into neutral. The motor is not revving up, either. Sometimes when slowing down to make a turn, or pulling out of a parking space, it just turns off. Can anyone make any useful suggestions of what could be a plausible reason for any of this so we don't get screwed at a mechanics??
    I've heard something about a CAM sensor or perhaps getting a fuel filter replacement??
    Thanks
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    That's because they are out enjoying their minivan driving experience. :P . But really, no minivan is perfect. We do own a Daimlerchrysler minivan that has been very reliable for us though.
  • jac57jac57 Posts: 1
    We bought this van 2 months ago with 95k miles. About a month ago the electrical system was "posessed", gauges would go back and forth like windshield wipers, turn signal would click and two or three times the normal speed, and finally the car would not start. The mechanic changed out the relays and everything was fine for a couple of weeks. Last night the car wouldn't start, got a jump which lasted until we got home. Turned off the car, massive clicking, and all electrical units off. The car battery was replaced in November 2004 and the radio/CD player is also a replacement (no date for that). At this point I'm guessing that the previous owners thought that the radio was the problem, changed the battery, and when that didn't work, traded it in. Help?1
  • I am having the same problem with the dash lights in my 96 voyager. I cannot see how fast I am going after dark. Were you able to find your problem? We have checked fuses, bulbs, and put in a brand new switch. My husband has had the dash apart a few times and it has been to the garage twice. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated as this problem has given me grief for the last 6 months.
    Thank you,
    Chris
  • gvdeadgvdead Posts: 2
    OK, here goes. My Voyager 96 (later computer) goes OK for a distance (8miles or so) then stumbles and eventually will die. Tach goes to zero when bucking. This stranded me 3 different times on the highway in Jan. -20 or lower temp. Roadside repairs attempted were: Camshaft Position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, coil pack. After the first time, a garage gave it a tuneup: plugs, wires, filter. I replaced the computer and it worked for a long time till this week(with the engine light on). I decided to try and remove that problem before Vacation. Auto zone computer checker said EGR valve. I replaced and light went out. Everything went good on vacation. Got back and 1500 miles after the EGR light problem fixed, it started doing the buck and die routine from Jan. again. It was raining. :sick: Help..........
  • gvdeadgvdead Posts: 2
    I just put up a post for my Grand Voy 96. Similar issues if not worse. Mine would never restsrt in Jan. could have been the cold. Had it towed 3 times. I put in all sorts of stuff, including crank and cam position sensers, and a computer... still having problems (renewed this week)
    gvdead
  • twinsmomtwinsmom Posts: 1
    My 2005 Chrysler T&C Limited quit on the highway today! Of course at rush hour and I was on the left shoulder. All of a sudden, it just lost power. It just died and would not start again. The alternator would work the accessories, but the engine would not start....and no, I was not out of gas! It was towed in to the dealership, and they will look at it on June 23.
    We had another problem with the radio. Intermittently, the radio would have no sound. It seems to happen more frequently after we have used the DVD player. to solve this, you must turn the engine off, open the door, and start it back up. Of course, it never does it at the dealership!
    I hope this is one of those unusual incidents, but I have to say that it was pretty scary sitting on the left shoulder with cars and trucks going by at 75-80 miles an hour in 98 degree weather.
    I'm sorry to be a buzz kill to those who are out enjoying their van....we enjoy it when it works! :sick:
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    That's a shame. Did it happen this morning? I would have thought they could have found the problem by now. Keep us informed
  • dennisctcdennisctc Posts: 1,168
    How long have you had your T&C? Mileage?
  • rktechrktech Posts: 25
    Now I know this isn't necessarily a crushing disaster type of problem, but the sunroof on my van leaks...the drains in the front corners apparently kink as they make their way into the A pillars, down and out...they fill with silt and debris and don't drain. The collar inside the sunroof housing fills with water and it makes it's way out through any available opening...drips from the visor screw holes...handle screw holes...shoots down the inside of the windshield from the headliner joint when braking...it's a mess...this on a 35k + Daimler vehicle...stupid, don't you think ?? I've taken to blowing the damn things out periodically with a steam nozzle, otherwise my dealer has to pull the headliner to play around, and never solves the problem (twice they've tried). Maybe Daimler should install a non kinking PVC tube at the pillar ??

    Anyway, thanks for letting me rant a bit...
  • mfaymfay Posts: 2
    I am the original owner of a 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan SE with 98k+ miles. While my wife was driving home today she noticed all the lights on the instrument panel were out and the gauges for speed, fuel level, etc were indicating zero. I read in an earlier message re: a 1992 Voyager, that the problem was traced to a bad computer. Indicators for "Check Engine Soon" and "ABS" were illuminated. Any advice that leads me to a quick and economical solution will be greatly appreciated.
    The engine starts, the radio operates, the ignition key insert chime functions.
  • slu71slu71 Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    I need to replace the motor mounts on my van. I just bought two yesterday from Autozone, the type covered in rubber. A few questions:
    1. Are there only two motor mounts (distinct from the transmission mount)?
    2. Is this a repair I can do without a press (i.e., something to hold the engine up while I replace them)? It appears like they're accessible, but I don't want to be unscrewing my mounts and have the engine crush me to death.
    3. Do I need any special tools?

    Thanks!
  • ntbillntbill Posts: 20
    I AM A REAL DODGE CARAVAN 2005 OWNER ;)

    Hahaha, just to make sure you don't think I'm a Honda owner, like twinsome.

    I have a Dodge Caravan 2005, 5000 km (about 3100 miles) on it, had my first oil change (every 5000 km), no major problem, except a left front impact sensor for air bags which had to be replaced under warranty.

    This van runs just great, but I can't stop myself from worrying about the transmission. I know that it is a lot better since 2001, but with all the posts about earlier models with transmission problems, I still worry a little bit about my 2005 transmission. Hopefully, I will only have to do my transmission oil change on schedule and everything will be fine.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    You should be okay with the trans. We have a 2001 DGC EX with over 61K with no trans. problems. Our trans, has been serviced at 34K and 56K. My advice to you would be to only have a Daimlerchrysler dealer service your trans., nobody else. Because they are the only one's that have the type of trans. fluid for your trans. Most of the past trans. problems from the 90's was due to the wrong trans. fluid being put in and for everything being to tight under the hood where as the heat from the engine could not escape, which made the trans. fluid brake down sooner then later and cause all kinds of problems. :)
  • samc1samc1 Posts: 1
    Break lights and the ABS lights in the instrument panel in my 1992 Caravan stay for about 5 minutes before they go off when I start the van in the morning. When I run the van, stops and starts the engine again, this doesn't happen. Then both ABS and break lights go off with other lights in the instrument panel.

    when the ABS and break lights are on, I can hear a humming noise in or close to the break pump and the breaks of the van is considerably low.

    The Van has been recalled for break defects and fixed by the dealer about 7 years ago.
    Any idea or suggestion is welcome
    Thank You
  • matt20matt20 Posts: 2
    Hi guys. Hopefully you can help me. I have a 1998 Grand Caravan SE, and the suddenly the speedometer and tachometer stopped working as if the car was off. Everything else seems to be working fine. No "check engine" lights or anything.

    So any ideas as to what I should do? Thanks!
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Posts: 70
    When that happened to my 98 T&C, it was the battery. Got a new battery and never had the problem again in 60,000 miles.

    C.B.
  • westforkwestfork Posts: 1
    2002 Chrysler T&C.3 out of 4 of the rear bulbs do not work when braking. Swapped the bulbs to the location of the socket that is working, and the bulbs work in that one socket, but none of the other bulbs work in their own socket even though the bulbs are good. Parking filaments do work.Center brake light Ok. Any ideas?
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    Sounds like it might be a lose wire. Doubt it would be a fuse but you might want to check them both out.
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    There were a few posts some pages back regarding various fixes for your symptoms, you should check around for them. There was a very detailed description about servicing the electronics of a computer component that led into the tach/speedo assembly a few posts ago as well.

    good luck
  • I have a Gnd Voyager 2000 with 74000 miles, and recently the engine put a rod through the block as a result of water being taken up after driving (a friend drove!) into a flood. Not sure if I should upgrade now or repair and keep. Insurance will cover the repairs, but I am worried about other problems that may come about - either as a result of the age of the car in general, as a result of the new engine (i.e. more power through the older transmission), or due to other unknown water damage. We want a reliable car we can take family vacations in, and this van now makes me nervous. Any ideas? I like the Chyrsler T&C 2005. Should I keep the GV and drive it into the ground, or will it start failing me? Is the Chyrsler T&C 2005 a good replacement?
  • dennisctcdennisctc Posts: 1,168
    but I am worried about other problems that may come about - either as a result of the age of the car in general, as a result of the new engine (i.e. more power through the older transmission), or due to other unknown water damage

    I'd get it repaired, then sell it. Speaking from an electrical standpoint, you might start having electrical gremlins due to water damage...corrosion of terminals. If you were keeping it for local jaunts...fine, but family vacations....Hmmmm, I'd get the 2005 T&C. IMO
  • lhjlhj Posts: 3
    I own a 96 Gr.Caravan 3.3, 4 speed. I stopped my van put it in park and removed the key. When I try to start it again nothing happens. The instrument panel shows that it is in Reverse although it is in Park. When I try to move it to Neutral the shifter will move but the N doesn't light up and the van still won't work.

    Any ideas?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    A weak coil can be masked by spark plugs and plug wires in new condition, but as the plugs wear and the wire insulation becomes embrittled, not having enough spark voltage can result in a misfire.

    With respect to the aftermarket parts comment, I've seen a lot of aftermarket ignition components that are not up to the grade of factory equipped. No matter what I'm working on, I always use factory ignition parts, especially the wires and plugs. I (almost) never cross plugs from one make to another.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    My first thought is the shift cable (from the gear shift lever to the transmission) has broken.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    How's the engine run? This could be the result of a speed-distance sensor failure. Or, you may have a fuse open or other electrical problem.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    My first thought is the shift cable (from the gear shift lever to the transmission) has broken.

    or came loose. Not sure what holds them together but it could be just a broken carter key or nut that came loose and fell off.. But I think Dusty is right on with the problem.
  • rrichersrrichers Posts: 1
    My wife has a 2001 T & C. She recently pulled her cell phone charger out of the power outlet (the upper outlet, not the one run directly from the battery) and a fuse (an old style small glass cylinder with metal caps on both ends) attached to a spring, and a ring-like part popped out. Now the radio doesn't work. I checked on the cover of the Integrated Power Module and it says nothing about the radio.

    I assume this fuse is for both this power outlet and the radio, but I have no idea about how to get it back in.

    Can anyone help?
  • dougt2dougt2 Posts: 3
    Hi

    I have a 98 Gr Caravan with exactly the same problem. Runs fine but the instrument cluster is intermittent. After searching the forum for answers, so far I've

    - removed the instrument cluster, removed and reinstalled the connector
    - replaced the battery
    - checked the codes in the instrument cluster readout by holding the trip/odo buttons and turning it on
    - removed and reinstalled the IDO fuse

    any other ideas?
    - replace instrument cluster circuit board $370?
    - replace computer?

    thanks
    doug
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