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Comments
Many people have attributed it to turbo-lag on the 2.7T, but I'm pretty sure it's the product of the throttle-by-wire, perhaps interacting with the Tip. I.e., someone programmed it to avoid having a car lunge forward if someone inadvertently blips the gas pedal. I wouldn't be surprised if this wasn't an Audi AG or AoA fix to concerns related to unintended acceleration fiasco of 10 or so years ago.
I'm not suggesting you shouldn't feel however you feel about it, but I've learned to live with it. I find if I anticipate it, and ROLL ON the power, rather than stabbing it, I can usually get most of what I want. However, I can understand how you feel, as the thought has crossed my mind as to what might happen if I was trying to quickly merge into traffic ahead of a nice big semi and I wasn't able to manage this problem.
I drove the car up to New Hampshire Thursday night heading directly into the terrential rainstorm we were having here in the Northeast. The car was surefooted and amazingly stable on the highway at speeds around 70mph in the rain with high winds. The wipers work very well. The seats are extremely comfortable for a long drive. I definitely felt like I could drive for another couple of hours. The 3.0 engine is buttery smooth and gets up to speed. While I didn't hit the century mark, I did look down a few times amazed that I was going over 80mph in the pouring rain. Changing lanes on the highway was a breeze (around town, the steering is still way too light for my tastes).
timcar: I find the same thing, that if you ease on the gas, the car takes off nice and smooth. My mother who tries to "stab" it sometimes complains that she thinks there is something wrong with the transmission (the hesitation).
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
My '01 has the manual shift gate which is OK, but the S mode on the 2002 that I currently have been loaned is quite impressive.
Assuming you have this transmission, give S a try!
I'm sure his comments are anxiously awaited by us all.
http://www.audiworld.com/forum/index.html
However, using the "S" setting shuts out the overdrive. My long drive to work is a rapidly alternating mix of runs up and down hills through twisties and long straightaways. The "S" setting is great through the twisties, but it unnecessarily holds fourth gear on the straightaways. So I am constantly shifting back and forth between "S" and "D" if I want to avoid excessive gas consumption.
Although the Audi is a much better car than the Jaguar S-Type I had before, the Jag's "S" feature was more convenient. It dialed in more aggressive shift points but did not lock out overdrive . . . so it was basically a "set and forget" feature.
Since the Audi has Tiptronic when you're in the mood to pay constant attention to shift points, to require the same when using the "S" selector seems redundant. There is always the alternative of using the "quick stab" feature of the accelerator pedal to engage the aggressive shift program temporarily . . . but that causes the engine to bog momentarily which was, of course, the observation someone made that got this whole discussion going.
Any others care to comment?
Thanks.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
To markcincinnati . . . actually, the owner's manual states that the "S" setting locks out overdrive. A friend of mine has a BMW 540 with sport package, and the Audi in "S" mode responds very much like his car to throttle inputs at all engine speeds. Interestingly, BMW does not use overdrive. While he has a 5-speed automatic, 5th gear is a 1:1 ratio. Perhaps Audi did this to mimic the BMW responsiveness?
[Yes, I acknowledge bias, since I bought one!]
No acceleration hesitation - in my first 1,500 miles . . .
Even without the promised Sport Package - it certainly meets my definition of having 'soul'!
Cheers,
- Ray
Who does not mean to say that the W8 = a 4.2 A6 - -just that the driving dynamics are also 'pretty darn good' . . .
I really liked driving the car in S mode, really disliked it in D mode -- it was never in the right gear for the power curve. Perhaps I would LOVE the new tiptronic D and S modes in a 2.7T or 4.2.
Anyway, you are probably right, Audi (or vice versa) may have programmed the S mode to make the responsiveness more Bimmer like
thanks-Max
I think (as in I AM NOT sure) that there is now a body shop in Cincinnati that can do "a lot of" Audi A8 and (certain parts of) Audi A6 4.2 [since the front part has an aluminum content]. I think that for extensive body work, the A8 has to be taken to a specially equipped shop -- and due to the small number of Audi A8's that even to this day are on the road, they are "not everywhere."
But 4 or 5 shops seems a bit too few.
I could be wrong. . .
In the same vein, I work for a major multinational that includes car manufacturers in its customer base. Several people in my company have told me that Audi's cost to manufacture the A8 is several thousand dollars above its U.S. sticker price. Audi uses the car as a loss leader both to develop aluminum technology for more widespread applications and to vaunt Audi's technological leadership in the luxury segment. So, pricey as they are, at least from one perspective they are a real bargain.
I immediately got back into my A6 4.2.
The allroad feels as solid as the 4.2, it is actually quieter (road and engine noise) and, with all of 14 mile on the clock of the allroad, I can say that I do not feel I will notice the "downgrading" to 6 cylinders. I attribute this feeling to the fact that the 4.2 is tip and the allroad was a manual.
I liked it -- my only concern being the handling -- the turn in on my 4.2 is crisper. I am telling myself that 245 x 45 x 18 wheels/tires on the allroad will virtually eliminate this difference.
The allroad seems very capable as a car, as an avant and although I will probably seldom know how good it could be off road, off road too. I will not see myself coming and going either and much of the agressive looks of the 4.2 are carried over into the allroad.
It kinda makes me wonder why there aren't more of them on the road -- it seems (relatively) like a bargain (considering) and it is as luxurious as my 4.2. Of course it makes me long for an A6 4.2 with a 6spd! Even more, even more.
Anyway -- if you are in the market, ask to test drive one of these cars -- but make sure you try the stick. I bet some of the pleasure is muted by the tiptronic.
Have you thought about waiting before buying the 6 sp. Allroad for the "multitronic" Allroad?
A customer came in my store the other day driving an '02 A4 front-track CVT model. Said he loved the smoothness of this transmission but there was a slight hesitation upon take-off. He claimed the dealer told him that the "tip" transmission will be "obsolete" by the '04 model year! Obviously, this is grapevine stuff- but maybe it will get to the point where the CVT will be as good as the manual?
But, since I usually lease for rather short periods of time, I thought I would try out a stick shift allroad. I heard, too, that the allroad may have its last year of production 2004.
I have recently purchased a 1998 Audi A6 with 69k from an individual. My husband and I were highly impressed with the performance as well as the luxury accessories. After driving the car for only a week I have started to notice that when placed in reverse it tends to "jump" a bit. The jumping feels like when a person is about to "pop the clutch" in a standard transmission vehicle. I have noticed a couple of concerns previously posted in regard to the throttle. Do you think this could possibly be where the "jump" is coming from? Also, the owners manual mentions something about hooking your cell phone to the radio. Does anyone know what exactly I need to do to have this function work properly? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Jeri in Little Rock
Or, you can go to your Audi dealer and have one that was meant for the car installed.
For some this is NOT an option due to their carrier -- the phone a 3watt analog phone, works great and has virtually NO dropouts. I will miss mine when my 2003 Audi with the digital phone comes in.
My analog phone wired into the stereo system and controlled by the steering wheel toggle switches has been bullet proof, safe and has excellent sound quality.
Again -- it is ANALOG -- which fundamentally means, yesterday.
You might also want to investigate if it's still possible to purchase an extended warranty for the car. Don't know if you can do, or if so, that's it worth it, but you might want to check.
Someone on AW reported their dealer told them that next year is the year for an all new A6. Said he saw one on a trip to Germany, and it really looked good. I credit this, as it what I've guessed as the likely date for introducing a new product.
Regarding the comment about dumping laws . . . I'm no legal expert in this arena, but if dumping laws are constructed similarly to antitrust laws, Audi could probably sell a single model at a loss without running afoul of the law, since a niche model sold at a loss is not likely to unseat a competitor. It would be another matter if they did so across broad product lines (and that assuming dumping law even apply to automobiles, which I don't know).
Anyway, I cannot even guarantee the veracity of the information that the A8 sells here at a loss. As I stated, my source was a person in one of my company's businesses that supplies the auto industry.
What does this have to do with Audi's, A6's or otherwise you might ask? Two things: #1 "if you think Audi's are expensive to maintain and repair after 4 years or 50,000 miles, well BMW's Mercedes, Jaguars and Volvos, etc. are BREATHTAKINGLY expensive;" and, #2 having personal experience with two dozen Audis and friends, relatives and co-workers who among and between them have probably had at least another two dozen, you may want to consider extended warrantees (scratch that may, make it "must consider") or you may come to the conclusion that it is "less expensive" to, in effect, "dollar cost average" your transportation expenses and NEVER keep one of these fine European cars beyond 50,000 miles and always make lease payments -- there will be no surprises and predictable costs that way. Now of course thing #2 assumes that you will drive equal to or less than 16,666 miles per year.
If you drive more than that, you must consider extended maintenance/warranty agreements and you should probably pay cash for the car, unless you can get zero or low interest rates.
I have enjoyed, thoroughly enjoyed, virtually every new Audi I have had more than the one that it replaced. They each, however, have had both maintenance and repair needs that would have been BREATHTAKINGLY expensive without the protection of the Audi advantage or my extended warranty.
Audi's, BMW's and the rest of the high end, high or higher buck European cars are, in my opinion, generally more expensive to acquire used than lease new (within the 4 year old parameter, that is). I believe -- and the ancedotal evidence on this board often supports this notion -- that one could lease a 2002 A6 for 36 months for less money than one could buy and maintain a 1998 A6. And, the 2002 A6 will be the more pleasurable and reliable (and safe) acquisition.
I do not make enough money to afford used European cars.
Just a thought. . . .
From your reports on this forum, it sounds like you have enjoyed your A6 4.2 Audi. However, had the vehicle not been under warranty, it would be very interesting to see what the "net" repair charges would have been to finally solve your brake problem?
I have calculated $1500 in repair charges (if the vehicle was out of warranty) on my 2.7T over the last 2 years and 33,000 miles. Nothing major, but like you said, these cars do cost a fortune to maintain.
The Audi dealer must have an unbelievable overhead to maintain, obviously the customer has to pay for all that!
I would not hesitate to buy a 3 year old Audi w/50,000 miles from someone like you that has fixed all the "glitches" under warranty. This should be a relatively trouble free vehicle for the next 50,000 miles at a discounted (used car) price for a vehicle that is almost like new! The trouble is that it is almost impossible to find a used Audi (for sale) at the right time from a dedicated enthusiast like yourself!
I think the steering column was around $1,400 -- the "customer price" of the Audi rotors, beats me, as do the "retail" costs of the other items -- I also have a set (the one that is on it now) of aftermarket front rotors (cross drilled) that Audi paid for. By the way, I do not think that the repairs, etc, that I have had (excluding the brake rotors) are particularly out of line (compared with my friends who have a variety of European cars).
I have always been loaned cars during repairs. I have not been horribly inconvenienced. Both the dealer and AoA have been terrific. I really like my A6 4.2. And, our experiences with our Audis (including with my rotors) has in no way diminished our loyalty to the brand and enthusiasm for the cars. As you may know, both my wife and I have ordered 2003 Audis -- she has ordered a 225HP TT coupe and I have ordered an allroad (6spd). She has four months left on her lease, which is just about right. I have ten months left on mine, and will probably "bail out" around 4 or 5 months early (hoping my allroad with an October build date will be here in December or January).
My point is (and I hope always has been) that Audis are mechanical devices, therefore imperfect. Yet, I think they are the "biggest bang for the buck" in the near (sporty) luxury and (sporty) luxury class. And, I think they are incredible cars to drive -- and even though others also do all wheel drive, I think Audi does AWD better than anyone (and that is a signifcant selling point for me -- AWD, i.e.). Nevertheless, I do think they are very expensive to repair out of warranty. However, I would also say that they are NOT more expensive to maintain than BMW's, Mercedes, etc, in fact, I think they are less expensive to fix and maintain out of warranty than other European brands (perhaps excluding VW which, after all, is very similar.)
But, without a warranty, I believe that "buying and maintaining" a three or four year old Audi is equal to or more expensive than leasing a brand new one every 30 - 36 months. Now, if you do buy a "used" Audi A6 4.2 with under 50,000 miles on it AND buy either an Audi or aftermarket warranty, wel l. . . you may beat the odds.
It just seems to me that a new Audi that leases for $500-$750+ a month (for 36 months) and is driven 16,666 miles per year (or less) will cost less than a used (3 or 4 year old) Audi that is purchased and maintained (and repaired) for the same period of time.
I thought I had beaten the odds, in 1987, when I bought a "new" (used, really) 5000 CS turbo quattro with just over 20,000 miles on it. My costs were just about the same as if I had leased a new 1989 or 1990 model (also turbo quattro) -- and when I sold the car, it had depreciated so much that I actually felt I could have put the money to better use.
Now, a friend of mine always buys young used cars and he swears it is less expensive than leasing a new car every 30 - 36 months (which is what I do). He usually does this with American cars -- I can't seem to make it work with German cars (Audis). And my friend's who have tried it with Volvos, Saabs, BMW's and Mercedes seem to end up leasing new ones rather than buying and maintaining "slightly" used ones.
The maintenance is just a killer -- and when something really breaks, well it is time for a second mortgage -- I would "prefer" a "permanent" lease payment and no surprises, which has been my "mode" since 1977.
To each his/her own as my mother says. . .
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
AOA has really treated you well! I checked on those cross-drilled front rotors on the A6 4.2- $750 each!!!! From what you have mentioned, it sounds like atleast $5000 for parts/installation charges on that car.
I like your idea of the "perpetual" lease. A new Audi every 3 years or so covered by warranty. For those of us that are self-employed, this really makes sense from a tax point of view. Once Audi comes out with 6 speed tip and brings back a "clone" of the S4, w2.7T engine or something close, I will join the lease "club" once again.
But, regardless of the tax situation, a permanent lease payment and always driving a new or nearly new car with a known fixed cost structure, makes sense.
As the CPA's say, buy what appreciates (real estate), and rent everything else (cars).
My accountant says leasing or paying cash is the only "prudent" use of funds when it comes to cars (and no, I do not think this is a universally applicable truth, but "it works for me!")
For insurance reasons, putting the Audi in your name instead of the Co.'s name is the way to go. I have saved 20% on premiums by using this procedure!
I'm assuming that Audi will be unveiling an S4 type, w/o some of the "cladding" and summer wheels /tires that will be driveable 'year round w/o much hassle. Kind of like what they have done w/A6 4.2- using all-season tires/wheels as stock equipment on the'02 model.
I too overinflate, but I keep it to 110% of what the manual says. 41 seems a bit high.