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Comments
Thank You
Sometimes a technician, especially those not familiar with the nuances of Chrysler automatics, may start the engine up and place it in to a neutral or a gear before having enough ATF in the system. A sensor detects low, out-of-range fluid pressure. The Transmission Control Module (TCM) reads this and shuts the transmission down . You don't know it at the time because the vehicle is still immobile and being maintenanced, but the transmission is technically in "limp in" mode.
I'll bet in this instance if the vehicle's battery had been disconnected for a minute or two it would have gone in to the Learn Mode all by itself. After about 40 starts and stops the TCM would have re-written a new shift program on its own.
Best regards,
Dusty
There doesn't appar to be any leaks of fluid...although the steering column "sings" quite a bit...
Our main concern is we have brought it to the dealer who found nothing wrong, and two mechanics who thought we were nuts. Before we start spending money on a potential big problem, we're curious if anyone can shed any light what may be wrong. No one seems to be able to pinpoint the trouble.
We're debating getting it fixed or just getting something new...there seems to be some good deals lately. Any advice????????????
thanks in advance, Biff
In addition to the standard stuff (sans oil change, I do my own with Mobil 1), I asked them to perform the Fuel Rail recall (manditory recall), the Clockspring recall (the horning device doesn't horn too well), and the Vacuum Battery Tray (or some such name) TSB (the cruise control couldn't maintain speed up long grades). They just called and said that the Battery Tray would cost me ~$120 as it was not covered by a recall, and if so, that will raise my lifetime expense total (for non-scheduled maintenance) for the 1998 GC Sport 3.8 to a whopping $205. Not bad for 100,000 miles. ;-)
Gas prices being what they are combined with the fact that I've driven 12,000 miles in the last 18 weeks have caused me to cast a lustful eye to something more fuel efficient (I average about 22 mpg during my daily commute, 90% of which is on CC set @ 72), currently I'm liking the new A3 very much. The flip side of course is that this GC has been super reliable and has been long since paid off, and regardless of how many MPGs a new ride can deliver, it would take years at extremely high gas prices to justify the price difference between my "free" GC and any new car.
Assuming that she keeps running as problem free as she has been so far, it looks like it might could well be a long time before I part with her. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
i have just taken my 2003 voyager abroad and wonder if there is not invasive way of changing radio frequency dial mode on the FM from 0.2MHz a step, to 0.1MHz. Simply can not tune to those European radio stations that broadcact on even frequencies (i.e. 101.4).
will appreciate your help.
jarek
In case it has any relevance or is just coincidence a couple of times recently the airbag light has remained on after startup, which went out straight away with re start of the engine. The battery has sounded weak lately and failed to start yesterday requiring a jump start, but I must admit this is only after being left for few days in wet damp weather without being driven. And after all this the lights are now out, but I cannot confirm when this problem started or if it is connected to any of the above problems. Many thanks
Also will be going to an auto electrician for a second opinion.
I'd like to know a little more about how you are getting on with the problem.
Angelo
own it for nearly 5 yrs. With an alarm, over the past month, this problem has happened six times. I go to start
the car, and when I turn the key, to the run position, the instrument panel DOES have power, the temperature gauge, fuel gauge, speedometer, tachometer, odometer and shift letters are working. However,the car will not start.
Everything else has power, the radio, blower, mirrors, directional's, lights, ABS light, Check Engine Light, etc. When it does this, the car will not start. It will NOT crank . After a couple of times of doing this, it won't even attempt to start anymore, After waiting a while, one time it was five minutes another it was over ½-hour, I put the key back in, turn it, and everything is working again and the car starts perfectly. The car will not crank or start up now.
I have been doing a lot of reading on the internet trying to research this, and have seen that there are a lot of others that have had this problem, but no one posts what the fix is. I have read try replacing the ignition switch, starter contacts, or the neutral safety switch.
The instrument panel is getting power, But will not crank or start. Any advice you could give me would be
GREATLY appreciated.
:confuse:
I was told to add 6oz of Auto-RX and drive for 1000 miles (it is at 400 miles now) and then I plan to go to dealer to flush/exchange the transmission oil. Hope this will solve my problem probably yours.
Try reading at this site www.auto-rx.com
At least my trial on engine works, it cleans the engine and restore a lot of power back.
I have a 93 voyager that has a driveability issue. Whenever i accelerate the van wants to shake sometimes violently, but when i let off the gas it smooths out. At slow speeds it almost feels like i have a tire that is loose or bent. any ideas please let me know
Thanks
It has been showing "service engine soon" when I start and drive the van.
I checked the earlier forum info and someone mentioned to start the key and not start the engine and it should give a code, but no code showed.
Help.
in one of the msgs it was said it has something to do with
wheel bearing or something.
can you provide some info.
Thanks.
Then again, I suppose the question should be asked, "How did your transmission fail?" Apparently there are several different things that can go wrong (and are “habitually” missed by service personel) that don't require a transmission rebuild. You might want to seek a second opinion.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I am wondering if it has something to do with the fact that they are power brakes, with regular brake systems I've never experienced this?
can anybody help out on this?
Since last week, car, after 3-5 miles of driving, hesitates, bucks, shudders on acceleration, with engine sounding like its weezing
Had complete tune-up within last 2000 mi & had CAT, MAP sensor & TSA(?) sensor replaced to combat problem but to no avail.
Any ideas?
BTW, engine is quiet & still gets great mileage
I have a 2001 T&C LXI; same thing is happening with it as with your Dodge GC. I saw something about a module. I also read something in Popular Mechanics about a Doge p/u truck with the same problem. A burned out module under the dash on the passenger side.
That is all I know at this time as well. If I hear, I'll let you know. I hope someone has a solution!
dawg81
ORIGINAL FUEL PUMP lasted 13 yrs, 1 mo. 2nd PUMP lasted 16 mos. 3rd PUMP lasted 6 wks. Now 4 wks into 4th PUMP.
TODAY, went back to my local GOODYEAR Service Center which has done majority of recent repairs including FUEL PUMP, CAT, SENSORS, etc. They put in NEW IAC MOTOR.
Car was fine after repair for most of day NOW SAME DAMN PROBLEM again but Hesitation, Back-fire, etc is much less than before.
Any other ideas??
This is getting frustrating with a vehicle that until now, 14 yrs, 8 mos, has been extremely realiable
Back to GOODYEAR today-- discovered that coil not putting out proper voltage & 2 cylinders misfiring.
After replacing coil & MAP Sensor again still same problem
CONCLUSION-- bad computer. Outside badly corroded & electrical harness connection not in great shape either
Seems computer is mounted on firewall in such a position as to get constantly soaked in rain or snow :mad:
What the hell were the design engineers thinking on this one? :mad:
At least the computer is supposed to be less costly than the fuel pump :sick:
cm
1. Repair shop claim on my receipt that they found the short by doing the following.
2. Repair shop install a new ignition switch.
3. Repair shop install a new safety switch.
4. Repair shop install a new starter.
After having the car for 20 minutes, Once again the car won't start, so the vehicle is tow, this time:
5. Repair shop removed my car alarm b/c they claim that was the problem.
I get the car back Friday night park in my garage the next morning, guess what...Saturday morning the car is back on tow to the shop!
6. Since Saturday the car has been back in the shop.
If anyone had this expirince with this vehicle, please let me know. :mad:
Your problem COULD BE a faulty AUTO-SHUT OFF RELAY
Had that problem during the summer ( car wouldn't start-- initially CHRYSLER dealer thought fuel pump was bad) BUT I had dashboard lights
Your Voyager has tons more electronics than my '91 version