Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

1636466686981

Comments

  • chryslerfan2chryslerfan2 Member Posts: 5
    Take a look at my Message# 3407

    THAT could be the problem OR the electrical harness connection to the computer which is supposed to be my problem
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    Feds Investigating Chrysler Minivans

    The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) is studying reports of airbag problems in the Chrysler Group minivans. The 2005 model-year vans, the NHTSA reports, could have front airbag sensors that fail, possibly due to corrosion. The agency has logged five complaints from owners who say their airbag sensors failed. The sensors for the front airbags are located behind the front bumper, and owners have reported the warning light for the front airbags had illuminated in their vehicles. More than 400,000 minivans are being studied; if enough evidence is presented, the safety agency could order a full recall of the vehicles in question.
  • deegene2deegene2 Member Posts: 1
    The power tailgate on my 2001
    T&C will not open in cold temperatures. When activated by console switch it will unlatch but not open. Works fine in warm weather. Any experiences like this?
  • joeyojoeyo Member Posts: 1
    how do i turn off the "service engine soon" light myself?
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    You can dis-connect your (-) neg. baterry cable for 5-10 minutes, or if you don't want to lose your radio pre-sets, you can pull the 20 amp fuel pump fuse located in fuse box by the battery for 5-10 minutes. Did you find out why your check engine light is on, and corrected the problem? If not you can expect the light to return.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    The power tailgate on my 2001
    T&C will not open in cold temperatures. When activated by console switch it will unlatch but not open. Works fine in warm weather. Any experiences like this?


    We have a 01 DGC EX and have the same problem. The gas lifters on the lift gate are weak from age and use. (Ours started doing this in fall 2004). I don't think this is a quality issue since it opens manually and stays up with out sagging. I've priced the gas lifters each for around $30-40 at Murray's. I will be replacing them my self soon. :shades:
  • dkaydkay Member Posts: 1
    99 plymouth voyager 3 liter service engine light code 22 I checked the heat sensor it has resistance same as a new one what else can i check ? DKay
  • penwaypenway Member Posts: 1
    The theft alarm light on the dash is supposed to turn off after 15 seconds on my 2003 3.8 ltr Town & Country (37k miles) but stays on constantly. Dealer said that the vehicle engine shouldn't even be running with it on - and another mechanic didn't know what was causing it. Is this serious as I have been driving around with it staying on.
  • vascainovascaino Member Posts: 2
    98 T&C check engine light comes on, auto shut down and fuel pump relay start clicking and it wont start. But as soon as the light goes out and the clicking stops- its ok to start- mechanic try diagnostic and did not pull a code! I have it back, light came on again but this time does not stall or clicking relays! any ideas?
  • jebtt706jebtt706 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 plymoth grand voyager and have lost the tension pully on the ac unit. It is the one on the outside connected to the screw that goes up and down. Does anyone know what size it is so I can get a new one?
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    Anybody know how to check/replace the gauge cluster back light? I noticed on the speedometer, that a part of it is very deem as if a light went out. I'd like to see if I can fix it myself before taking it to the dealer.

    Thanks in advance. :)
  • Jim CroninJim Cronin Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 Chrysler Voyager.
    At 1st the blower would not work on the forth setting now it only works on High. Any suggestions, I checked the relay under the hood at its OK
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    It is a well known fault. The resistor pack is located on the firewall, on the passenger side, and usually a loose connector and/or corrosion is the problem. If beyond a cleaning repair, replacement (<$50) cures the issue.
  • chinadollchinadoll Member Posts: 1
    hi i am having the same problem with my dodge caravan and i was told at the delership it could be the power distibution center and /or the headlight/daytime module. the cost is quite a bit if it is only one part it could be $400.00 if it is both parts you arenow looking at around $800.00 installed. my caravan is out of warranty by mileage but what about you is it under your warranty? next step is trying to locate through a scrap yard and hope it works for now. i just dond't know where the daytime module is located. do you know where fto find it under the hood?
    chinadoll.
  • hraohrao Member Posts: 78
    I purchased a 7yr/70,000 warranty for just $950 from the dealer when I bought my 2000 Yoyager, so far no problems, but I would recommend that everyone purchase a extended warranty it just gives your peace of mind.
  • j1manson1j1manson1 Member Posts: 1
    my sister has a 1994 short body dodge caravan with 150k miles. the single (manual) sliding door on the passenger side has broken, is inoperable and requires major work welding, etc. $360 estimate.

    she is going through a costly divorce and if possible wants to avoid repairing the door. she definitely is not in a position to junk the vehicle either.

    she is willing to have her children climb through the passenger door, and climb back into the seats, and exit by doing the reverse. Note: she has 5 children, aging from 2 to 13.

    question: from a safety perspective, is this a concern? Is the sliding door considered a safety exit? or can she have it bolted or welded shut (to avoid someone accidentally pulling it off, causing injury.

    concerned big brother asks for your input.
  • lcraddocklcraddock Member Posts: 2
    Hi.. just thought I'd chime in that we had the same problem with our 03 Caravan (you described it perfectly, by the way). The dealer replaced the sway-bar links the first time, but the problem was still there. They ended up replacing the whole rack & pinion. Thankfully it's still under warranty! :shades:
  • lcraddocklcraddock Member Posts: 2
    We have an 03 Caravan and had the power steering hose (or whatever that was) replaced when we got the recall notice. Not long after, maybe a couple weeks or so, we started noticing a low whine when the van was cold. It would get louder when we turn the steering wheel. We checked the power steering fluid, b/c I know it'll whine if the fluid's low, but it wasn't.

    Now, it's a little worse on start-up and while still cold, but it goes away when the engine is good and warm. We're taking it in to the dealer soon, just wondering if ya'll had experienced anything similar so we'll know what to expect. Thanks!
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    John, I would think this would be somewhat of a safety issue and if I were facing this situation I would get one of the emergency exit tools like those advertised by AAA - the hammer end has a pointy side for knocking out glass. In my Caravan, there are 4 side windows that all are hinged at the front and have a buckle/tether at the rear. If one needed an emergency exit and had a tool to break the tether base free the window would swing open providing a wide emergency exit. Roy
  • headjammerheadjammer Member Posts: 1
    replace the plugs, or plug #6
  • lashleroux15lashleroux15 Member Posts: 11
    I have an 02 T&C EX bought used in good shape recently.

    We just had a cold snap go through my area and was warming the van up with the garage door open. After 10 minutes, I went out, opened the rear hatch, then shut it. Ever since then, it will not open at all (seems like the mechanism stopped working whether locked/unlocked).

    Any time I pull on the handle to lift it, I hear a "click" like it's trying to release the latch and nothing else. Seems like something broke with the latch mechanism (and I don't dare try using the power liftgate). Wondering if anyone has any ideas?

    Stinks having kids and the liftgate not able to open. It has warmed up since then so if it froze up things should have thawed out by now. My next step is to try and pull the inside trim from the door and see if I can get to the mechanism. Thanks
  • jjtjjjtj Member Posts: 80
    We had the same problem in our 03 GC.. it was the power steering resevoir. Ours was out of warranty and cost around $150 or so if I remember.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    Did you try turning the key in the lock and lifting the liftgate at the same time to open it?
  • baldeagle2baldeagle2 Member Posts: 2
    does any one know why the front brakes would stick on my van after the master cylinder and calipers were changed just the right side brake
  • gowmtribegowmtribe Member Posts: 5
    I have 2005 TC stow n go. About 3K miles. Getting a high pitched sqeaking noise from the midrow driver side area. Sometimes worse when driving over bumps. Sometimes will squeak even on smooth road. From the rear row, it is definitely from the driver side second row seat area. Could it be driver side sliding door? squeak from second row seat? Anyone else with this problem? Thanks
  • jmojardinjmojardin Member Posts: 3
    Hi clean the trottle body and this help for a while.But then the problem come back. iam cleaning this at least once per week, this help but is not enought. do you have any idea what can be the original problem??
  • ltchattyltchatty Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my 1999 Grand Voyager. The ignition cylinder had to be replaced. It happened to me twice. Locksmith said this was a common occurance in these vans.
  • ltchattyltchatty Member Posts: 2
    The power door on the van won't close all the way when using the electric switch. It stops 3/4's of the way closed. Also when opening the door with the switch it stops at the same spot 1/4 opened. Are there contact or micro switches?
  • vdubber87vdubber87 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 Plymouth Grand Voyager. I have some problems. When the car is idling it feels as if the engine looses power and gains it back. This goes on back and forth. The whole car is jerking so u really feel it. When you are in the low gear going high rpm you dont feel it as much because the doesnt jerk as much. If you are in a higher gear and going LOW rpm you really feel the jerking/twitching. This happens in every gear if its runing low rpms (i.e below 1600 ) or so. I THINK its the fuel injectors but cannot be sure. PLEASE give me an answer thanx.
  • tkirk1tkirk1 Member Posts: 2
    The flexible brake line has collasped internally. You should consider the flex lines on both sides.
  • lashleroux15lashleroux15 Member Posts: 11
    Update on the stuck liftgate:

    The key works to manually unlatch the door to open it. It is the electronic part which doesn't work. From what I've found out, it's either the lock actuator or the lock control (which the actuator connects to) module causing the problem. Dealers are quoting $300 just to replace the actuator and control module.

    Since it's easy to remove/replace, I'm going to pull the rear panel, test for voltage on the components (making sure some wiring didn't go bad) then replace the actuator/control module for $120 ordered off the net.

    Unless someone has other ideas on this one.
  • motoringmamamotoringmama Member Posts: 35
    DGC 2001. My heater is on, and within 10 minutes the warm air is beginning to smell like a wet diaper. And it doesn't seem to be going away. It was fine yesterday, but the problem just started out of the blue today. Any ideas?
    Thanks.
  • cb2manorcb2manor Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Dodge Caravan Sport, and just within the last 4-6 weeks have noticed a gas odor, sometimes it's stronger than others. And it's not just after filling up, it's random...any ideas? Also, my parking brake light is coming on intermittently (usually going around a curve)...and I usually double check to make sure the brake isn't on.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    When was the last time you changed the air filter under the hood and the inside cabin filter under the dashboard on the passengers side?
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    You might want to check your brake fluid level. If the brake light is coming on while making a turn or stopping, your brake fluid is probably low. If it is low, you might want to check your brake pads to see if they need to be replaced.
  • rambo2000rambo2000 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Dodge caravan 3.3 engine. Engine stalls, only in cold wheather, like below 40 degrees. What could be causing this problem?
  • mconover3mconover3 Member Posts: 2
    did you ever get this fixed? i am having te same issue
  • temrebtemreb Member Posts: 1
    2002 Dodge Grand Caravan, heater/air conditioner fan only runs on high, rear air fan is okay, works on all speeds. Checked relays, found no problem, any ideas? ">
  • mconover3mconover3 Member Posts: 2
    could it be the resistor or something else. whereto begin
  • moffiemoffie Member Posts: 6
    hey wendy was just wondering if you ever found out what was wrong with your van...i'm having a problem with mine my ....keeps spinning but won't crank over
  • baldeagle2baldeagle2 Member Posts: 2
    i had the same problen with my 1992 caravan the lockup in the trans was bad and i unpluged it and it cured it
  • gino45gino45 Member Posts: 52
    I had the same problem on my 2001. It turned out to be the resistor. The part cost me $20 and took me 10 min to repair. It's located behind the glove compartment.
  • gino45gino45 Member Posts: 52
    This is a follow up to a problem I had with my rear wiper. My wiper as well as the washer wiper pump weren't working. My dealer told me that the body control module (BCM) had to be re-programed. They tried to download a upgrade into it but apparently the module wouldn't accept the download. They concluded that the BCM was faulty and had to be replaced at a cost of $300 for a refurbished BCM. I declined the repair - for a cost of $300 I can live the rear wiper not working. Well guess what, the following day my wife tells me that the wiper and washer pump are working just fine. I guess the BCM accepted the download or it must have been a loose wire somewhere that caused the problem in the first place. If anyone has a similar problem, don't rush out and replace the BCM. Try to get it re-programed. Even if that doesn't work right away, give it a few days. You may have to run your van for a while for the computer to accept the program.
  • biff6biff6 Member Posts: 3
    Wow! I've heard replacing rack & pinion is very expensive! The new dealer I brought the car to found nothing wrong (again, it was a warm day, not much creaking going on). I plan on bringing it in tomorrow (again) since it is cold and when we turn a corner or hit a bump in the road or drive through a small dip, it feels like we are dragging a dead body under the car.

    It's a '00 Caravan (Sport model) with 53,000 miles. My wife absolutely loves the car, and I don't feel like going through the process of getting another car. It would really be a shame if something was seriously wrong.
  • outdoormomoutdoormom Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone give me some advice re my cruise control? I can turn it on and off, but I cannot "set" the cruise...any suggestions?
  • santhony1santhony1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan. When the van is started I hear a running water noise coming from the dash. The running water noise continues upon acceleration of the van for about 5 minutes and then disappears. I have checked the coolant level as directed by my service department and coolant level is fine. Any ideas?
  • moffiemoffie Member Posts: 6
    just wondering how your car is running did you ever find out what was wrong?i was having the same problem with the gas smell and a few times after parking and shutting off van and lights i find my brake lights on.....the last 4 times i started the van it spinned a couple of times before cranking yesterday i stalled while stopped at a light and now it will only spin and not crack over.my mechanic has it now hopefully will find out tomorrow what the problem is....let you then.good luck with yours
  • justaskinjustaskin Member Posts: 17
    It may not be a problem. When you start up the coolant pump starts pumping fluid. It does travel through the hoses leading to the heater core inside the dash. Try turning the heat dial to cold before starting it. You should hear far less.

    Alternately you might have water sitting in the cowling below you windshield wiper arms due to leaves etc blocking the drainage holes.

    Try the cold start first.
  • justaskinjustaskin Member Posts: 17
    check your coolant level in the reservoir to be sure you haven't got a leak through the heater core. Do this over the next few weeks if the smell doesn't improve.

    These vehicles are prone to smelly air exchange. I never turn off the blower fully. If you let it stagnate it will get musty and smell. Worse in the summer.
  • justaskinjustaskin Member Posts: 17
    I agree with just4fun2. Check your brake fluid level. Your owners manual should tell you where to look. Fill it up with appropriate fluid, then if the light comes on again after a while and you check and the fluid is low, you either have to go looking for a leak or take it in to be fixed.

    For the gas smell. Either get under the vehicle and sniff around the gas tank or take it in to your favourite shop and have them look for a leak. fuel smells are pretty distinct and can only come from a leak. they need to be fixed asap.
Sign In or Register to comment.