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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • justaskinjustaskin Member Posts: 17
    this is a simple problem to fix.

    If you have a caravan you will find a plate about the size of a deck of cards bolted (on earlier models) or attached without any evident means, because there are two disposable plastic tabs similar to body moulding tabs, on to the fire wall on the left side almost in line with the serpentine belt. Either unbolt this or pull it out and replace it with a new one. Fairly cheap at a dealer. It is a set of resistors that turn down the fan speed. when they all burn out the fan can only run on high.

    they stick into the air duct so they can be cooled by the air they circulate.
  • pinoleropinolero Member Posts: 1
    H, I have the same problem, remove the top of the dashboard, reset the plug on the back of the panel, but I can' find the ribbon cable at the botton.

    will you guide me?

    Thanks
  • moffiemoffie Member Posts: 6
    just wanted to let you know it was the fuel pump on my van $435. parts and labor
  • moffiemoffie Member Posts: 6
    i had a similar problem.....turned out to be fuel pump
  • justaskinjustaskin Member Posts: 17
    thanks for letting us know how things worked out. This can be as important as the original post.

    What about the brake light. That likely wouldn't be related to the fuel pump. The other problems probably were.

    Any news there? How did the fluid level check out?
  • wcnorbwcnorb Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2000 T&C and are having the same trouble. Has anyone helped you out with your problem?

    Thanks,
    Norb
  • wcnorbwcnorb Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2000 T&C and had a similar problem. Put in a gas additive (think it was a STP product) that was a fuel system cleaner and haven't had a problem since. Had a 94 Dodge Caravan that used to stall and used a gas additive to remedy that situation.

    Good luck,
    Norb
  • ckmnacckmnac Member Posts: 12
    I am having the same problem but only occasionally on my 98 GC. It usually only happens when the van is cold and shutting it off and starting it back up will fix the problem. We thought it was the transmission even though it was replaced 24,000 miles ago. I swear this van has major issues with the cold weather.
  • ih8myvanih8myvan Member Posts: 1
    I haven't had THAT problem. But I do want to ask if anyone has had problems with the power windows in their Grand Caravan. Mine is a 1997 and I have replaced almost everything but the engine (probably next). I have replaced the power window on the drivers side 5 TIMES in the past 3 months. It will last for about 2 weeks & strip the gears again. I was told by my mechanic that its "just a Dodge problem" and that it will keep happening. I don't have to pay for a new one everytime (its under warranty from when I first purchased the first motot) but it is COLD and very frustrating when the window goes down in the door and I have to ride like that until I can get to my mechanic!

    Anyone else have a problem like this?
  • riverswampriverswamp Member Posts: 1
    My 99 GV cuts off while driving it, more often while it is still cold. The dealer had it for a week and ' couldn't duplicate the problem'. I came in and drove it w/one of the mechanics and a computer hooked up to it and it cut off after about 3 minutes of driving it. The dealer said the tests came back with numerous spikes in voltage and he could not begin to figure out the problem. It does not hesitate, drive rough, or give you any warning it's going to cut off. It just goes out. I asked about the TPS and he said the voltage would be low, not high, so he does not think that's the problem.He's not going to charge me for the diagonistics since he doesn't know whats wrong. Any suggestions would be helpful.
  • kayode_65kayode_65 Member Posts: 5
    I had wheel alignment done at the local Chrysler dealership last week and following this, I purchased three hankook tires from a local store. Config. is two new Hankook tires in the front and one Hankook and one uniroyal tiger paw at the back (215/65/16 T rated)

    I noticed after putting the tires on that the car veers to the right, I contacted Chrysler and they were trying to blame it on the tire and suggested we swap the tires over as they will charge if they have to examine the vehicle again. The pull still occurs in the same direction.
    The mechanic at the tire store drove the vehicle yesterday and said it is not a problem and blamed
    it on the crown of our local roads saying it will not cause tire wear. However driving on the interstate last night, doing 60mph, it still veers to the right.

    My question is has anyone experienced this or should the alignment still be checked.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    While I'm not saying that your single Uniroyal Tiger Paw is the cause of your pulling, I will say that most if not all competent shops will not spend too much time on debugging your problem until there are four identical tires on your car. Obviously with the odd tire on the rear it will be less of an issue, but potentially an issue nonetheless.

    Suggestion, buy another Hankook tire and use the TigerPaw as a spare.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • top3guntop3gun Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 dodge caravan. the a/c was working fine til after i had the oil pan replaced by the dealer. after that, the a/c wasn't blowing cold air. it was warm. would it be possible that there's something related to the a/c in the area of the oil pan? perhaps something the mechanic did to the a/c system while replacing the oil pan?

    doesnt make sense to me, but i dont know what else could have caused the a/c to not be cold immediately after the oil pan was worked on.

    pls advise, tks!
  • jhartjhart Member Posts: 10
    The mechanic may have unplugged the AC connection at the compressor. Good luck.
  • eric6eric6 Member Posts: 10
    Tina16,

    Did this ever get resolved? Do you know what the problem is? I have a 2002 T&C EX. I have the exact same issue.
  • stedyekstedyek Member Posts: 8
    My 2001 voyager's blower (or fan) will now only work in highest setting; also sometimes passenger window won't work and rear wiper has quit working before. Just hit 60000 miles and had the "check engine light" come on with a code "P 0135". I can't find out what this code means and need help tracking down blower problem. THANKS for any suggestions.
  • mreds1mreds1 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a similar problem with a 98 grand voyager. I haven't had it looked at yet but it will sometimes not go in drive or reverse. Turning the engine off and then back on usually corrects the problem. Hope it is not a transmission job. I'm hoping that someone has an answer that will at least help me to reduce my costs when getting it fixed.
  • motoringmamamotoringmama Member Posts: 35
    I'm not sure if this is a problem or not. But I bought my GC 2001 this past Spring and I had not driven it in snow until recently. I've noticed that when I hit a slippery patch of snow my front end grinds kind of like when your ABS kicks in, but I am not applying the brakes. As soon as I get past the slippery patch, it stops. Is this normal, or is this some kind of a problem? Also, I don't know if this has traction control or limited slip on it.
    Thanks for any input.
  • virg5410virg5410 Member Posts: 2
    1998 120,000 miles 3.3 started to stall intermitently. It runs awsome then dies with out warning. I can start it right back up after I turn it off for awhile, but then it gets harder to start back up when it has died a few times. It will still start just have to wait longer. My mechanic can not find anything wrong. Before I started having this problem my tack, speedometer and gear lights on the dash would act up. Like the stall it happen intermitantly. My mechanic said I had a crank shaft sensor code show so he replaced that but still it is not fixed. He put in a new battery yesterday in hopes but it died on my way to work 5 times. The car still runs great if it were not for the stalling and I hate to give it up. I see where others have had similar problems. Has no one found a cure?
  • jhartjhart Member Posts: 10
    I know the 96 GC's had a recall on the clock spring in the steering wheel but I doubt that is the problem. It could be the BCM computor or it's wiring harness. Caravans are also prone to having poor grounds. There are several grounds associated with this car. Upper left motor mount and in the area of the radiator and under the dash. Also, I would carefully clean and check both ends of the battery cables and replace if in doubt. I did have trouble with the door locks just before the clock spring went out on my GC' but it corrected itself before I had it replaced. I did clean the cables. Apparently these vans are "ground" sensitive. Let us know how you make out. Jim
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "Also, I don't know if this has traction control or limited slip on it."

    Well, you do now... That grinding noise you heard was the traction control system in action. If you had been driving across the slippery stuff with little or no throttle you would not have heard the noise, however, as soon as the traction control system sensed wheel slip, it actuated the brakes in rapid fire fashion to eliminate said slipping.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • justaskinjustaskin Member Posts: 17
    For the passenger compartment fan blower problem, you are looking at a fairly simple replacement of a resistor pack that controls the speed. it is located on the firewall between the engine and the passenger compartment. Open the hood, look towards the back of the engine in line with the serpentine belt. On the wall at the back of the engine you should see a plastic rectangle about the size of a credit card with a wiring harness plugged into it.

    this needs to be pried off and replaced with a new one. I haven't done one this new but I'm told that if you slide a screwdriver in from the outside it will compress a clip that will allow you to remove the resistor pack.

    You'll have all the blower settings back. it's an easy swap.

    good luck.

    The rear wiper motor isn't too tough to swap either but I'm confused about your "before" comment. If it's working now, just leave it. I had to cut the wiper arm off the spindle in order to remove it.

    You'll need to give more information about how your passenger window doesn't work. This could be a mechanical problem or an electrical problem depending on what's actually going wrong.
  • nategb555nategb555 Member Posts: 2
    HAS ANYBODY HAD THE NOISY EXHAUST PROBLEM RESOLVED? I JUST BOUGHT A NEW 2005 TOWN & COUNTRY LIMITED BACK IN OCTOBER OF THIS YEAR. I LOVE THE VAN BUT THE ONLY DISAPPOINTMENT HAS BEEN THE LOUD EXHAUST GLASS PACK NOISES. ON THE HIGHWAY GOING 70 IT IS NOT VERY NOTICABLE, BUT CRUSING AROUND TOWN IT IS ALMOST UNBEARABLE. IT MAKES A LOUD GROWLING SOUND THAT DRIVES ME CRAZY.

    THIS IS NOT THE QUIET MINIVAN THAT I HAVE READ REVIEWS ON. WHEN BUYING A SO CALLED "LUXURY" MINIVAN, THE LAST THING YOU WANT TO DO IS CRANK UP THE RADIO TO DROWN OUT THE MUFFLER SOUNDS.

    IF CHRYSLER HAS DONE NOTHING ABOUT THIS & IS JUST SAYING THIS IS INHERENT TO THE VEHICLE, THIS WILL BE THE LAST CHRYSLER THAT I WILL BUY(I STILL OWN A 99' T & C THAT IS VERY QUIET--AND HAS THE SAME ENGINE?).

    I AM NOT SURE IF ALL 2005 T & C'S HAVE THIS ISSUE BECAUSE I CAN NOT FIND MANY POSTS ON THE INTERNET ABOUT THIS PROBLEM --THE LAST ONE DATED SEPTEMBER 2005 IN THIS EDMUNDS FORUM.

    CAN A DIFFERENT MUFFLER BE USED TO REPLACE THE ONE ON THE VAN & SOLVE THE PROBLEM?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    For starters, please don't shout (typing in all CAPS), it's considered rude, it's difficult to read, and as such, many posters won't even bother to respond, even if they happen to have an answer.

    Now, to the point of your post, you didn't mention what your dealership has had to say on the subject. That being said, I don't imagine that it will be all that difficult to diagnose such a problem that is as loud as a "glass pack" level of exhaust noise. It could be a cracked joint or otherwise split or holed pipe, it could be a hole in the muffler, it could be a loose bolt coming off of the exhaust header, it could be something wrong with the catalytic converter.

    Regarding your comment that said, "I still own a '99 T&C that is very quiet -- and has the same engine." Well, not really. True, they both are probably sporting the 3.8 (the same as our 1998 and our 2003 GCs), however, they aren't the same engine, hence the difference in power and fuel economy. Same block? Yes. Same everything else? Some yes, some no, and that includes both the intake and exhaust systems if I'm not mistaken.

    Question tree #1: Did you take it for a test drive before you took delivery of it? If so, did it make the noise then? If so, why did you take delivery of it?

    Question tree #2: Have you gone back to your dealership and asked to ride in another similarly equipped van? If so, did it make the same amount of noise? In the unlikely event that it did, then I guess that's just way it is. If it didn't, did you bring the difference to the attention of your service advisor? If so, what did he/she say?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    besides the things you mention: it's possible it's a missing rubber grommet for one of the hangers on the exhaust system, or some part of the exhaust system could be pushed up against the underside of the vehicle, or something from the road may have lodged in between a part of the exhaust and the underside...

    i'd bring it in and have someone put it on a lift.
  • motoringmamamotoringmama Member Posts: 35
    Thank you for the response. I am happy to know my vehicle is equipped with this safety feature.
    :)
  • stedyekstedyek Member Posts: 8
    I'll try the resistor pack replacement this weekend. The rear wiper on 2 or 3 occassions has stopped working but is working now so I agree to leave it alone.

    The passenger window has also stopped working 2 or 3 times but is working fine now too. When it acts up it will go down and then not come up except in about half inch increments over about 10 minutes of of trying.
  • gino45gino45 Member Posts: 52
    The day time running lights on my 2001 Caravan quit working the other day. The fuses look fine. Is there a relay linked to these lights? I am not sure if Caravans sold in the U.S. have this setup, but any advice would be welcomed.
  • metalmykemetalmyke Member Posts: 14
    My 98 GC with 170k, recently the air bag light came on. Perhaps not coincidently, the horn stopped working at the same time. Also probably not coincidently, about 1.5 years ago the cruise control buttons on the steering wheel stopped working. I could get them to work by moving the tilt wheel up and down but after a while it stopped working altogether. I understand that there is a clock spring recall on some the of the GC's, but I also know that this van never had the recall performed, as I did not own it at the time of the recall. Anyway, any suggestions or ideas on this? Is it probably the clock spring, or something else? If it is the clock spring, any chance I could get Chrysler to pay for the replacement? Thanks!
  • jhartjhart Member Posts: 10
    The clock spring on my 96 went out and I waited a year and surprise it was recalled for replacement. They want a lot of money do do it. The part is not that much. Call your dealer and ask them. Have your VIN ready. Also Allpar.com may have it in their archives. Good luck!
  • metalmykemetalmyke Member Posts: 14
    Thanks for the link jhart. The clockspring problem was in there still, and good news, I dug through the storage compartment under the passenger seat and found the ORIGINAL recall notice for the van sent out in november of 02. the notice states that if you have under 70k miles on the vehicle to immediately come in for a replacement, and if you have over 70k miles to keep the notice and if the airbag light ever comes on to bring the notice in and they will replace the clockspring free of charge. Now I just have to see if my local dealer will still honor the over 3 year old recall. Thanks again! BTW, the clockspring does control the airbag, horn, and cruise.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I had the clockspring done on my 1998 six weeks ago during its 100,000 mile look-see. They did it for free under the recall notice.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • justaskinjustaskin Member Posts: 17
    This could be an easy repair so I'll give it a try. I just don't know the terminology and the Haynes manual doesn't have much to say.

    On my Canadian 91 Caravan, one day my wife called me at work to say that the daytime running lights wouldn't go off. I told her to go out and run the car every so often so that the battery wouldn't go flat. Then I called the dealer to ask what to do.

    I got lucky and was told what to do without having to take the car in. The repair was dead simple and I pulled a new part from a wrecker's for almost no money.

    There is a regulator that controls the daytime running lights in the engine close to the firewall on the serpentine belt side of the engine. It is fairly easy to spot. There is a bit of covering around it as if to avoid contact. Probably because it gets hot. Looking at my 99 voyager, it looks like an igniter from a stove. It has a bit of white ceramic on it unless I'm mistaken. It has a wiring harness attached. If you unscrew the screws and remove it you will probably see that it is scorched on the other side. If it is, you know it is toast. Get a replacement. I looked around at a "pull your own" wreckers and found the one that looked the best. Never had to replace it again.

    I think this is the problem but the difference is your lights don't go on whereas mine didn't go off.

    Personally I wouldn't put a lot of money into this. It is the law for manufacturers to install daytime running lights but I'm not sure it is the law to keep using them. If you want the safety, put on your lights. You get a chime if you forget to turn them off. I didn't pay much for the replacement, but the guy at the dealer just told me to unplug the regulator. That would have given me exactly the situation you have now.

    I'd encourage anyone with a better description to add a post.

    gino45: wait for a bit before paying to get it fixed. Someone else will surely add to my comments. Or else look around for the part I describe.
  • shadowz1shadowz1 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 87 Dodge Caravan with the 3.0 liter motor that has me confused at first it started to act funny by stalling everytime i tried to turn right while driveing and then it just quit working
    now i have no spark and so far i have changed the ignition coil, changed the entire distributer and changed the computer but still i have no spark, fuel pump works, engine cranks distributer turns but no fire cause there is no spark and i am trying to figure out why, sombody please help me, please!

    also the internal diagnostics give me a diagnostics code 11 no ignition referance
  • shadowz1shadowz1 Member Posts: 5
    If your Tranni is controlled by a computer you might want to get it checked out a friend of mine had a van with a similar problem, turned out to be a broken wire going to the computer that controlled his tranni which forced the van into limp home mode
  • shadowz1shadowz1 Member Posts: 5
    check to see if you have spark
  • eric6eric6 Member Posts: 10
    Hi,

    I have a 2002 T& C EX. The power sliding door opens only about 1/2 inch and then stops. It does not matter which button I press. The problem happens intermittingly, but is becoming more frequent. This happens when the van is running and when it is not. I have replaced the battery. I have also notice when I open the door manually it is hard to open.

    Does anyone have an Idea for the cause? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Eric
  • jhart1jhart1 Member Posts: 16
    A code 11 is a camshaft sensor or a crankshaft sensor. Since the problem occurs when you make a turn, it could be a loose wire at either sensor. I would get some electronic cleaner at Radio Shack and spray all the connectors. Also it could be a bad ground. There are several grounds on the Caravan. Some are by the radiator and some on the engine and under the dash. Chrysler did make a kit to replace broken or shorted wires to the computer. That could also be the problem. My guess is the crankshaft sensor. They seem to go bad more often. Buy one from a junkyard and replace it and see if it helps. If not buy a camshaft sensor and try that. Better to take your chances with a used part as most places won't take back electrical parts. I once had a code for the throttle position sensor and purchased a new one. I still got the code and thought it was bad or I had another problem. On advice from a tranny repair man I cleaned the connectors with electrical spray and the problem was resolved. Good luck>
  • gino45gino45 Member Posts: 52
    Thanks Justaskins for the info, but unfortunately my Caravan is a 2001 model. Apparently the day time running lights are controlled by the power control module. Thus, I had to take in to the dealer to get it fixed. The reprogrammed the module for $40 and lights now work fine. It seems that most accessories go thru some module or another and Chrysler dealer's are the only ones who can reprogram them. :(
  • stedyekstedyek Member Posts: 8
    There was not anything on the firewall that looked like the resistor pack that you described. I've swapped the fuses and relays and they seem ok. Seems like I'm at a dead end here. Maybe disconnect the battery and see if something resets.
  • nategb555nategb555 Member Posts: 2
    This is follow up to my last message.

    I did take the van into the dealer today. They told me that they did not hear any unusual noises from the muffler when they test drove it. I will go back in January when I have time, so I can ride with them & point it out & also test drive another van to see if it has the same noises.

    Still waiting to see if anyone has had this same problem resolved. Again, I am not sure if this problem has shown up on many of the new vans. When doing searches on the internet, I find about 8 postings of exhaust noises, but no follow up from anyone if they had noise resolved.

    Service adviser did tell me that I may hear noises because of the way the exhaust system routes underneath around the stow & go. I am not so sure that that is the problem. The noise I hear is really evident at 30mph & 50 mph when the RPM's even out after accelerating. It then makes a bogging/droaning noise. At other speeds it seems to be ok.

    Per one of the responses--we did not notice this noise at the time we bought it. Became evident around 400-500 miles.

    Just trying to find out if any other people have this noise. Driving this van has gotten to be very annoying because of this growling noise at certain speeds. All the reviews I have read say how quiet & refined the new T&C is. But again, the 99' T&C that we have is alot quietier & sounds smooth when driving.
  • strokeoluck1strokeoluck1 Member Posts: 37
    We have an '04 T&C with ~42,000 miles on it. We purchased it brand new about 18 months ago. I just talked w/the dealership and discovered that our van is going to need about $600 of misc. work (about four different/petty things). I'm not happy as you can imagine. The dealership told me to call the Chrysler customer assistance line. I can be very persistent, yet nice. What do you all think the odds are that I'll get some sort of reimbursement from Chrysler?

    - Rob
  • shadowz1shadowz1 Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for the info now i just need to locate where the sensor is, can you help? All i know is its on the tranni somewhere and probly somwhere hard to access knowing dodge LOL
    also i don't think my van has a camshaft sensor it think that job goes to the optical sensor inside the distributer but i am not sure thank you again... shadowz1
  • strokeoluck1strokeoluck1 Member Posts: 37
    It just might be. I've had "American" cars that were great (Ford Taurus, Pontiac Grand Prix) and I've had American vehicles that were dogs ('04 T&C with just 42,000 miles). Presently we drive the T&C as well as an '05 Acura TL (which is virtually flawless). Previously we owned a '99 Caravan that ran great until it hit 110,000 miles when it was stolen from a mall. I thought it was great because the insurance company gave us great money for it. And then we bought this darn '04 T&C. At the first available opportunity I'm dumping this thing. I truly think it is just luck of the draw. Though I'd probably lean towards taking my "luck" chances with Honda or Toyota.

    - Rob
  • strokeoluck1strokeoluck1 Member Posts: 37
    We own an '04 T&C with 42,000 miles on it. We purchased it brand new and have treated it very well. Recently we had some nagging issues so we dropped it off at the dealer. $600 later they had fixed the various issues. Of course the dealer won't/can't do anything to help out w/the cost. But they did give me the # for Chrysler corporate and told me to call them directly. ALTHOUGH (for all your Chrysler lurkers out there) the dealer told me *NOT* to tell Chrysler corporate that the dealer gave me their #, because..."corporate doesn't like it when we do that". WHAT!?!?!?! They don't like it when their customers call them up and complain? Hmmmm, there's a surprise.

    Anyway, my question is, has anyone had any luck getting some sort of out-of-warranty reimbursement from Chrysler corporate? I plan on being very persistent.

    Thanks, Rob
  • minimevanminimevan Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I own a 1996 Plymouth Voyager MiniVan. 222,000 km. The van has been very good until recently. Only regular maintance has been required. Up here in Cold Canada my van has decided to start running rough/rumbling when you start it. If you try and drive it when it's cold and running rough, it will stall. I have to let it warm up and put my foot on the gas a little. During this there is noize from the exaust pipe and it smells a bit like gas when the moisture is coming out. Once it warms up it runs fine. I took it to a Mechanic that a friend of mine knows. He scanned it. He said there was no codes or any indication on his computer scanner. He said everything electrical is reading fine. He found a little gas in my oil. He changed the idle motor thinking that was the problem, New plugs oil change etc. It ran good for a week and then as soon as it gets cold -20 plugged in or not it does the same thing. If anyone knows what the problem could be it would be greatly appreciated if someone could help me out.
    Thanks.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    If the van takes a long time to warm up, Change the thermostat.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    Dealerships of all makes charge a lot of money. What repairs were needed? Could any of them been done before 36,000 miles? I want to know what service was performed before I start ranting about "Stealerships"
  • n2oceansn2oceans Member Posts: 1
    hi. we have a 2001 T & C ( piece of junk ) and have had problem after problem. But we have a 1996 Neon and it's been a very reliable car. At 101K miles, a motor oil leak started and it was going to be about 1500.00 at the dealer to fix. I contacted Chrysler (via mail) and they called me and told me to take it to the dealership and they would email them there. They paid for everything to be fixed on that issue with the Neon except for 100.01. The guy at the dealership told me that once someone from Chrysler corp says they are going to 'email' the dealership, it's pretty much paid for.

    On the other hand, I sent a letter regarding the T & C (with only 56K miles on it at the time) and they wouldn't fix anything. We have had constant, and I mean constant, issues with this van. Windows not rolling down, locks not locking every door, makes a noise when it starts up in the cold, lights on dash (some of them) don't work, have to keep replacing the battery, tires, (and I have this vehicle very routinely maintained)... just little issues like that. A few months ago, there was a 'recall' for the air vents / radio. I took it in, and it ended up costing us over 600.00. They said this was wrong, that was wrong.. etc. It's horrible. I am not kidding when I say that in the past 2 yrs, (including yesterday), the van has been towed to the dealership at least 5-6 times. Yesterday, driving down the freeway, and no for-warning, nothing.. it just stops running. no check engine light, nothing!!! I'm so frustrated..and I think we owe more on it than it's worth, so we can't just trade it in. I will NEVER own another Chrysler again!!!

    but, back to your question, yes..there is hope. I don't know how much, but Chrysler did help us with one vehicle!

    Thanks,
    S. Wilson
  • diyguydiyguy Member Posts: 2
    I have the same year (2002) and same model (eX) of T&C and the exact same problem. Had the sliding door and tailgate fixed twice while under warrenty and now that the van hit 38 months and 40k both have failed again. The side door just pops open but does not slide open and the tail gate will pop open but then the auto close pulls it shut. Power close when the gate is open does absolutly nothing except flash the lights.

    Unfortunately, this is one of many problem$ that hit just as soon as the van passed 36 months. Front suspension being a BIG one.
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