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Comments
Get Voice Command -- it is not a novelty, it works "OK" and if MMI is "less awful," it will become MORE less awful and certainly safer with voice.
Without it, it is frustrating and DANGEROUS.
Voice is great at its current level of sophistication which is to say, "not very."
At a LIST PRICE of $350 -- don't even bother to look at a new A6 with MMI and the technology package without it.
And, even though I do understand and agree with these posts, overall, WITH MMI there are 82 different controls on my A6 that can command the driver's attention.
Some folks wish the center console screen could play a DVD while the car is moving! Wow! Talk about a fender bender (or death wish) waiting to happen. . . .
Thanks for the "fair and balanced" posts.
:shades:
I agree totally! My allroad configured just right was 43k with the bose, premium, and Manual.
Drop down to the A4 and have a lessor Interior with less space, but have the 3.2 with manual? Or X3?
Darn Audi for no more manual in the A6!
Doug (and anyone else with knowlegde of this subject matter):
I have a 2005 A6 3.2, with Premium and Convenience packages. I do not have the Audi phone cradle. Recently I purchased from Verizon a new Motoroloa E815 (successor to the V710, I believe).
I can sync the phone manually to the car by manually pressing various buttons on my phone, however this takes several protracted steps. I have to pull over to do this -- you wouldn't want to try this while driving.
While the car is running, the phone will stay in sync. But turn the car off, and sync is lost. Presently, I have to resync manually as described above.
My question is this: is a Bluetooth enabled phone supposed to automically sync with the A6 as soon as they are in proximity, or is this manual sync up procedure part of the process? Also, does having voice control in the Audi have any effect on this? I am able to have very good conversations in the car (over the phone through the car sound system).
What else could I be doing to get the phone and car to sync up more easily?
Also, anyone have any luck with the latest LG bluetooth phone, with Verizon?
Thanks.
The call quality has been great. My only gripe is that the multiple numbers for a user in the phone come over to the Audi as multiple entries for the same person with no home, cell, etc. designation. The only way I have figured out to separate them is to create a voice tag so I can use a voice command to call a home, cell, etc, number.
Thanks for the quick reply!
Could you please walk us through the STEPS you actually take:
You say you "turned Bluetooth on". Where and how did you do that? Do you mean turned something on the phone or on the car? What specifically did you "turn on"?
What is your shortcut? What are the steps?
Thanks in advance!
I hear you! I hope that Audi hears you too!
As I have stated earlier -- in my opinion -- the current MMI system in the 2005 A6 materially detracts from what is otherwise a superlative automobile.
OK, so let's see if I remember....on the E815
Go into the Main Menu / Settings / Connection / Bluetooth
Setup / Power
Here you will see a POWER ON/OFF screen...to set as a shortcut hold down the Main Menu button for a couple seconds. This will create a shortcut that can be renamed and accessed from the first panel when the phone powers on. This then will allow you to turn BT on/off in a couple clicks.
Back under Settings / Car Settings I set Auto Handsfree to ON.
Then with Bluetooth turned on in the E815 I got into the A6 and started the car. Bluetooth should automatically go looking for a connection. Mine came up and said it found Audi UHV #### (this is a number) and ask me for the PIN (the default PIN is in the MMI user manual.) After entering the PIN everything connected. This information seemed to be stored in the phone and now automatically connects as long as Bluetooth is ON on the phone side and the car's power is on.
While I do agree that MMI is not the simplest interface in the world I don't think it is that bad either. Maybe 28 years in the computer business has tainted my judgment. Since I got my A6 I have been "forcing" myself to learn the button layout with as little distraction as possible. I like the fact that the screen is high on the dash so you do not need to look down too far. I can feel the various shaped and placed buttons and select the one I want. Granted I still hit the wrong one occasionally but who cares. If you hit the wrong one then just select another one. If you practice you will find that you do not need to look down at the console.
Of course this is a lot more work than a more traditional dash layout...but then again look at all the toys we get to play with!
One other comparison. I also looked at the M35X and liked the car a lot. The interior was great and the performance was much better than the A6 or 6 cylinder E class. The controller was not that bad either because the radio and HVAC controls were seperate. The thing on the M35X that turned me off more than any car I've ever driven was the engine noise. It was more than excessive, it was just plain extremely loud. Infiniti calls it performance tuned exhaust. I called it awful noisey. For 50 large, I want quiet, not noise performance feedback.
We are in the genesis stage of these control interfaces -- and I do think the systems are likely to become more complicated in terms of what they control and "more intuitive" if that could apply.
MMI, Command, iDrive -- all have their proponents and detractors. I sometimes wonder why there are so many buttons and knobs but I can't turn the heat up on my seat without first pushing a button then turning a knob.
Yet, I would welcome voice command of this function.
Further, I would think if the system is smart enough to understand the word "play" that it would be able to change the radio station without first saying the word radio if the last function you were using happened to be navigation.
I drive along, request navigation to a destination, the map displays, the radio does not mute or change and 10 minutes later I say "play spa 73" and the voice lady says "pardon?" or switches to CD, simply because I did not preface my channel change command, "play" with "radio."
Moreover, all the gesticulations the voice command undergoes when I say "call so and so" seem odd -- when I say "call home" the voice lady says "do you wish to call so and so?" And, then I say, yes and she says, "dialing so and so land line at office." This may be of value if I had programmed a home, cellular and land line and office number into the system.
I would like to suppress the dialog somewhat in this case.
In the former, I would like "play" to be associated with either the CD or the Radio function.
Overall, despite the primative state of the voice systems, I favor them, indeed demand them and request them for anyone reading this considering one of these cars -- Audis MMI may be "best of breed" but without voice it is a pain in the butt.
What I came away with from your musings was first and foremost, what is still missing from these early stage (infancy?) control devices is artificial intelligence. That is, the ability to discern a verbal command within a certain context.
As you have pointed out, and others have observed, on the Audi system and others, such as Lexus' voice control system, it is very easy for the "computer" to misunderstand a command, notwithstanding how many times you repeat that command.
The need to preface each command with a very specific phrase or word is another problem that current systems face. If one were to rent the car for a day -- as opposed to owning it and having read the voice actuation command protocol -- one would quickly find themselves effectively locked out; that is, as far as verbally inputted controls, if you did not know how to preface your commands.
I suppose one solution to this problem would be to increase the "vocabulary" that these systems work with. At present, their vocabulary appears relatively small.
I do wish that the car companies would join forces and pool their talent as regards these various systems. In my limited experience, I think that the Japanese still have the edge in car computer/navigation/voice interface, with Infiniti and Acura topping the list. I sure wish that the German companies would wise up and recruit some of Japan's top navi (et al) system designers and simplify their systems.
In the meantime, I guess we should be grateful that basic operation of the car, that is, starting and stopping the vehicle, is still under human control. Then again, computers and chips have already encroached into those areas as well.
Let's hope we never have to contend with a HAL 9000 computer taking over complete control of our cars while we are zooming down the interstate, driving in a bad part of town, or worse, getting out of the car to fix a flat that the car's dash lights alerted you to, when you hear a familiar computer voice say: "What do you think you are doing, Mark?" as you hear the car doors lock!
In those days "training" the voice recognition was required; and, then it was mandatory to repeat the word or phrase EXACTLY as you had programmed it. The radio could set the phone to "call home" if the announcer, song or commercial content contained trigger words, etc.
Talk about primitive -- but -- it WAS hands free and eyes free dialing and it was 18+ years ago.
Now, despite my peeves about "it oughta know" when I say "play" that "play" is NOT associated with Navigation or Telephone (also known as Phone), I did NOT have to train the system, it hardly ever makes an interpretation error and I know the state of voice recognition HAS to be to a stage that a simple routine could be written in the software that merely says sound if equal to "play" and "mode" if equal to "radio or CD" follow command. If sound is equal to "play" and "mode" is NOT equal to "radio or CD" search the "radio and CD" stored name tags for a match.
Here in River City, I have WGUC programmed in as a name tag (the local classical music outlet). I say "play WGUC" and if I am in the radio mode it plays, no fuss no muss.
Only in radio mode is the tag WGUC stored, in this case. In point of fact although it is possible to store WGUC as "destination" most folks probably wouldn't do this.
So, MMI programming wizard: simply "hear" the command "play" and if the MMI is NOT in radio or CD mode, search the database for the word following "play" and if found -- play it!
The "fuzzy logic" or whatever is used for name and speech recognition is way advanced over that miserable 1987 system and the above example certainly is not an as yet unwritten set of software.
It is, most likely, an unimplemented program.
Likewise, controlling heat, a/c and bun warmers (at least for the driver) seem a small step.
With voice able to recognize 1-800-555-1212, perhaps letters of the alphabet could be added to make voice programming of nav, rather than name tag programming, a reality.
I do believe some of the Japanese LPS cars do allow full voice programming of a nav destination. Correct me if I am wrong.
I am a proponent, but I still feel sometimes like we're on the Beta version of this technology. :shades:
None that I am personally aware of. The only "docking" feature, so to speak, is wireless Bluetooth; meant for cell phones.
As to future iPod connectivity, that would be a nice feature.
It's best to call your local Audi dealership and ask for the particulars for your precise year and model, making sure to note how your unique Audi sound system is comprised -- to see if this iPod adapter can be succesfully installed and used in your Audi vehicle.
Fast forward. I have an order in for the Audi 18" wheels, 245/40/18. I am between the Falken Azenis 115 and the Conti ProContact Sport tires. Here's my question:
I know that Mark has had 3 sets of the Falken's and after reading the glowing reviews all over the internet its not hard to see why. So obviously they are in the running. However, handling is NOT my primary goal.
I am now so spoiled by the sheer comfort of the 16" Michelin HX MXM4 tires that are on the car now, that I really don't want to give up all comfort just to get those great looking 18's. (By the way, the Mich HX 16" tires do handle decently enough -- not sticky or taut, but not sloppy either).
MY priorities for the new 18's are, in order: 1. Comfort 2. Low Noise. 3. Handling 4. Nice looking curb appeal.
Tirerack suggests the brand NEW Conti's because they are a grand touring tire, are designed to give greater comfort and low noise + plus Audi ships them as factory installed. (Audi, making luxury performance cars, must have had comfort and luxury in mind when considering fitment for their non-sport models of the A6 -- hence the Michelin HX and Conti ProContacts they shod their cars in, including the 18" varieties). He says they would be a lot quieter than the Mich HX tires on their now. Plus, because they are H rated, will be more comfortable.
Tires.com, who sell Falken, swear by the W rated Falken Azenis 115s, and would recommend them over, say, the AVONS or the Pirelli Nero's -- their top rated all-season tires.
I know that H rated, touring tires may be anathema to some of you, but if you could, for the priorities I have articulated for my use, anybody got some objective thoughts and contributions to my decision making process?
Mark: how would you honestly rate comfort and noise on the Azenis? Handling?
Thanks in advance for input!
The Falkens that I had were summer only tires -- if they now are able to sport an all-season (read all-temperature) label, that is new news to me, but that doesn't mean your information is wrong.
The Falkens were very definitely a fine riding tire -- harshness of any kind would probably be due more to the profile (40 series) than it would be the tire.
Finally, the Falkens easily imbue the driver with cornering confidence. My personal test is a curve that I approach as a right handed sharp corner marked 15mph -- the combination of "Audi+Falkens" easily allowed me to take this curve at 45mhp.
I HAVE NOT (yet) put new tires on my less than 10,000 mile old A6 3.2 with the factory 18" wheels and the H rated factory Conti shoes.
The Contis are very quiet yet somewhat less than suited (in my opinion) to the suspension (stock) of my Audi. To compensate I NOW have inflated the front to 36 and the rear to 33.
The ride even at this amount of pressure remains smooth (and quiet).
If the Falken Azenis ST115 tires are now rated as UHP A/S, based on my experience with the Z rated summer only version, I would get them in a heartbeat.
My second choice, since I am very likely to want UHP A/S rubber (again A/S means all temps rather than some other trait -- but their ability to run right in the cold contributes to their suitability for light to moderate snow -- which is, after all, what we get here in River City, Ohio) -- would be the Yokohama db2's.
The Conti Extreme Contact (?) would also be on my list, as would the Pirelli PZero Nero M+S since we put those on my wife's last TT to great effect including tread wear.
As we "up" the performance we usually have some deterioration of the miles per tire -- sometimes as much as 50%. I would think the Falken's lose 20% of their life in sacrifice to the "cause" of both performance and quiet ride. They are, however, much less money than the Mich UHP A/S tires -- so it is still a high value (and good looking) "shoe."
Hope this helps.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ContiProContact&veh- - icleSearch=true&partnum=44HR8CPC&fromCompare1=yes&place=5
That is from the performance standpoint -- so my bias is completly stated.
Otherwise they are fine middle of the road tires -- I'd give them a C+ when performance is factored in, perhaps a B- if I am feeling generous.
Its too soon to give a complete run down on the Pirellis, but they seem to be considerably better than the Michelins. They are clearly a huge improvement in the curves. They are slightly quieter than the Michelins. The comfort of the ride seems to be about the same. I have not driven the Pirellis in the rain or the snow. I am hoping that they are a big improvement over the stock Michelins in the snow. If not, I may have to break down and get dedicated snow tires.
Kevin
All Season tires can be OK in snow, better, in some cases, than non all seasons. However, the main benefit of all season tires are their ability to withstand both hot and cold ambient temps.
The Azenis ST115 tires I had were termed summer only tires and I did use them year round IN ZINZINNATI. We are as far to the south of Ohio as is possible (virtually.) We have moderate snowfall generally. We have, usually, moderately cold winters. Summer tires are NOT really happy in the cold ( below 37 degrees. )
When a tire designated as summer is subjected to cold temps it loses its ability to be compliant and flexible.
It handles less well in the snow when it is below its temp threshold.
I am a fan of all seasons if they are UHP all seasons.
I "justify" my own contradictions ONLY by virtue of having a quattro drive (and now an X drive) car in my garage.
Audi currently uses "high" not "ultra high" performance tires in its all season offering.
These tires are great in a straight line and at high speeds for prolonged periods.
They are no damn good for anything approaching spirited driving -- but they are NOT incompetent completely.
Audis need UHP tires IMHO.
In addition to the Yokohama AVS db2 tire, who else makes an UHP all season for fitment on the 6 in 17" or 18"?
By the way, I own the AVS db2 tire, and while it's a good, decent tire, I would not characterize it as particularly grippy. For that matter, I would not tell another would-be customer that this tire is deserving of an UHP rating.
From a Tirerack test:
Out on the road, the AVS dB S2 received good marks for ride quality and lived up to its intended purpose by offering low road noise, along with handling levels appropriate for the category.
I guess my views on the topic at hand and the above road test comments suggest that a a question be asked: just how sporty can an all-season tire be, when compared to a summer performance tire?
What criteria makes a tire an "Ultra High Performance" tire as opposed to "just" "High Performance", and for that matter, how much worse is a "Grand Touring Tire"?
And what about service level and speed ratings? To what extent should they be scrutinized -- compare the stiffness of an H rated tire to a V or Z rated tire for example.
Read about it here: http://www.conti-online.co.uk/generator/www/uk/en/continental/automobile/themes/car_tyres/- - - medium/conti_premium_contact2/premiumcontact2_en.html
It's reported benefits:
* Shorter braking distances
* Optimum aquaplanning protection
* Excellent cornering stability
* Improved driving stability and braking performance
* Improved braking on dry roads.
* Improved braking on wet roads.
* Improved resistance to aquaplaning.
* Improved handling thanks to asymmetrical tread pattern.
All season tires require several compromises -- as time has passed, the performance characteristics of A/S tires have improved. Most 3 season tires will perform better than their all season counterparts -- but "perform" is in the eye of the customer.
For some, perform may mean miles to go from day one.
For others it may mean year round usability.
There is a phrase that has to do with this situation and it ends up something like [of the three traits] "pick two."
Good performance (by your terms), a quiet tire and a year round tire: pick two. On three earlier occasions, I chose performance and quiet (relatively speaking) and ended up with the Falken Azenis.
Finally, by the third set (all on quattro cars), we had a nasty winter (snowfall wise) here in our little corner of heaven -- and it was long underwear cold, too.
I know of no literal tire damage these circumstances caused -- but during the few days of snow, ice and cold, even the mighty quattro system on a then fairly young allroad felt a bit overwhelmed. The tires almost seemed, ummm, "brittle" in those conditions.
But the rest of the time the then Z rated Summer Only shoes were quiet and grippy. I think I paid $160 apiece for them in size 245 x 45 x 18.
Driving home in heavy heavy rain last night, I cannot point to any shortcomings of the Audi OEM 245 x 40 x 18 all season Conti tires. I have not had them in snow -- yet.
I think the car is under-tired. Yet, these tires have not risen to a state where I think replacement is warranted.
For the American drivers (we, after all, are THE prime reason for these German mfgs to offer all season rubber), I still would look to the mainstream tire companies and go with their so-designated UHP all seasons as yet another compromise, but a compromise in "the right direction."
This, for some, may NOT be the right direction.
Heck BMW went down the path of run flats. Go figure.
You can go to tirerack.com and select a "filter" to show you only tires that fit the criteria for A/S+UHP. There are 11 in Audi OEM size, e.g.
There are a few -- and tires.com has a few more.
Of course Audi uses a tire size that CAN limit the population from which you can choose.
Don't forget it is possible (but be careful) to "plus zero" size your tires but be careful. You can also plus one size, but this requires more money since you will need new wheels AND new tires.
Decisions, decisions -- and you thought choice was a good thing?
It really is, after all. :confuse:
My terms are: 1) comfort, 2) quiet, 3) handling; in that order. Picking only two, then comfort first, then quiet.
All season performance is not an concern for me as I live in Southern California, where neither freezing temps or snow are a problem. We do have a few short months of rain to contend with but other than that, the seasonal weather challenges such as extreme cold, snow, and ice are not issues for most of us here in sunny Southern Cal.
I am very happy with falkens myself. For the money they are exceptional! don't be fooled with the brand name thing, its very overrated!
Car and driver this month did a big thing on summer tires and the goodyear eagles came out on top! I had them on an E-430 4 years ago and they were great! But at 12k they became very noisy. The Yoko DB's were better. Problem is I eat them up at 17k per set! 3 oil changes per set of tires gets expensive!
Price is not an issue with me either as I want a quiet tire first. The goodyears are great for M3 or 911's, but too much tire for a touring sedan.
Mark in cincy got this thing nailed a long time ago! He is giving you good advice.
If not to late, the 17's are what your looking for.
The 17"s indeed make the most sense, as regards my performance/comfort needs; but alas I don't like the wheel's appearance nearly as much.
It may not be too late for the 17" rims. I am waiting to hear whether or not I can obtain the 18" wheels. They may not be available. I am using a source that sells OEM wheels that were "take-offs", and their inventory is dependent on owners like us taking off our OEMs and buying custom wheels.I should hear back by tomorrow or Monday.
If I can't get the 18's in a reasonable period of time then I will go with the 17's. I can't stand looking at the stock 16" OEM rims much longer!
Thanks for your good suggestions! Much appreciated.
I am considering buying a used car for my son and driving it for 6-8 months while he learns on it. MIght be better for him to learn on the car he will drive then on brand new Audi. Im thinking a light turbo 1.8 Volvo wagon, about 5 years old that my sister has. Would have less than 40k on it.
I am now at 36 lbs front and 33 rear (on the OEM 18" wheels with the OEM H rated All/Season Continentals).
Once again, I am able to report an improvement in turn in and roadholding on some curvy roads that I frequent locally and some I only drive on infrequently.
The perception at least is improved handling AND ride.
I assume Audi chose these tires because they are quiet and they must have rhino tread in terms of apparent tread - wear.
The fact that the extra pounds have improved the car's handling makes me realize even more how much this car's chassis is probably capable of.
Using a price point as a factor, I can only suggest that switching to an Ultra High Performance or Max performance tire (summer only) costing under $200 apiece would virtually assure an even more marked improvement in the roadability of this car.
I would also have to assume that @ a profile of 40, there would be some degradation of the ride with higher performance 3 season tires; but, for my tastes I think the merits outweigh the demerits.
The transmission seems to have learned a new trick -- and I must add that it has crossed my mind to wonder if the change in attitude is coincidental with the weather.
Although Cincinnati, this year, at least, can swing from 60 to 16 to 50 to 36 in the course of 48 hours, I noticed some new "intelligence" from the transmission just as the temps plummeted to the lowest of the season so far.
Further, even though we have cycled through some warm and back to some "seasonably" cold temps, the transmission's newfound smarts seem to have stuck.
Historically, these step and tip tronic transmissions from two famous German car companies (BMW and Audi) have done a pretty good job from a dead stop to 60+ mph under full throttle. They have also done well in slow and go traffic, as long as the slow remains above 20mph.
These transmissions are hell-bent, however, against shifting all the way back down to first gear unless the car's speed reaches full stop or "creep."
Truth be told, many of us (probably the majority of us) are used to "almost, but not quite" full-stops for a variety of reasons, some laziness, some circumstance, some "rolling stops," that is.
The 5 and 6 speed step and tip tronic transmissions at a ground speed just above "creep" (coming down from highway or even secondary street speeds) are still in second gear, and the engine RPM's at those speeds are significantly below the torque sweet-spot required for a progressively quick pick up.
The hapless driver at creep+ speed, in second gear with less than optimal torque feels a "lag" from the time the accelerator is pressed until the car actually begins to pick up speed commensurate with the distance the throttle has been pressed.
The driver then, feeling as if he has hit a "wall of jello," presses the accelerator pedal just far enough further down to activate a downshift (from second to first) -- the sensation of course is slowing down, followed by a press on the go pedal with very little pick up in speed followed by a further deeper press of the pedal followed by a lunge or lurch forward as the car shifts to first gear and the RPM's race to 3 or 4,000.
To counteract this sorry state of shifting, Audi (and BMW and others) offer a sport mode for the transmission -- this mode seems to make the car shift up at higher RPM's and be more willing to downshift keeping in concert with what might be appropriate for the road speed if one were driving a manual transmission version.
I have been driving my A6 mostly in "S" mode and have not been too upset by the tip lag, since it IS way way down from my previous 5 speed tiptronic equipped Audis.
As I noted, last week when we had our first cold snap the transmission "got smart." It seems to me that it is shifting a lot closer to the way I would shift were I pushing the clutch pedal and rowing through the gears.
I think I had given the transmission a "B" grade before, or at least in my mind I thought of it as a "B" -- and now I can bump it up to a B+ / A- in terms of its ability to nearly read my mind.
I know what you may be thinking, "it is an adaptive, learning transmission, it finally learned your quirks, Mark."
Well I do know that the transmission is of the learning persuasion, but I thought it reset periodically -- I just can't believe it has actually evaluated my driving style for 6 months and 10K miles and has finally got my implied shifting needs and habits nailed.
On the other hand, it is now approaching lag free and the engine, typical of Audi engines, seems to have "gotten its second wind."
Now, if the BOSE DSP settings could be made to stick and if the advance key pushbutton start doesn't fail anymore, I will be an even more satisfied customer.
End of report.
P.S. Inflate those tires -- there IS a really nice handling car masked by the fact that Audi has chosen to under tire this baby. :shades:
The following UHP tires fit on the 18" Audi rims and have received pretty good reviews at Tirerack.
Avon Tech M550 A/S
Pirelli PZero Nero M&S
Continental ContiExtremeContact
Michelin Pilot Sport A/S
Kumho ECSTA ASX
In light of the observations detailed in this article, the wisdom of 10,000 mile oil change intervals continues to evade me. This is particularly true as regards the majority of the so-called "synthetic oils" like Castrol, which in fact is a highly refined "hydrocracked" organic crude oil. Such oils still contain sulfur and myriad other contaminants that will foul the oil in time, and experience breakdown as fuel blow-by brings fuel contaminants into the oil reservoir. This of course is not the case in a true synthetic, such as Amsoil.
Perhaps Audi's new saving grace was to install an extra large oil capacity in the A6 -- nearly nine quarts I believe. This will surely extend the life of the crankcase oil because that oil does not have to work as hard as the five quarts would that you would find in the majority of American and Japanese cars on the road today. By nearly doubling the car's oil capacity, Audi has, IMO, made a wise move toward built-in protection for it's engines. One might even make the case that with such a high oil reservoir capacity, Audi has cleverly built-in engine preservation safe guards and 'idiot-proofed' the car against those knuckle heads who might actually forgo an oil change for 20,000 miles -- as chronicled below.
Even though a top grade, true synthetic like Amsoil or Mobil 1 is capable of delivering 10,000 miles of service, with lots of short trips in stop-and-go traffic (considered severe service by AOA) I will still follow a more conservative approach and change my oil every 5,000 miles. With Audi picking up the tab for every other oil change, I think that that's still a good bargain; providing good "insurance", and peace of mind, all at a reasonable price.
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Oil sludge woes plague VW; automaker to pay for engine repairs, extend warranties
RALPH KISIEL | Automotive News
Posted Date: 8/30/04
DETROIT - In the latest example of Volkswagen of America Inc.'s quality woes, the automaker is warning 426,000 VW Passat and Audi A4 owners of an engine oil sludge problem.
Affected are 1.8-liter turbocharged four-cylinder engines on 1998 to 2004 Passats and 1997 to 2004 A4s. VW won't say how many engines have been replaced or repaired, or what it is spending to fix the problem.
Owners began receiving letters from VWoA this month. Remedies range from extending warranties to covering repair costs. That includes replacing engines.
Sludge buildup causes engine performance to deteriorate. In extreme cases, sludge can cause engines to seize.
The timing couldn't be worse. VW Division has old products, and sales are down 11.5 percent for the first seven months compared with the year-ago period. And it has only been a year since VW voluntarily recalled more than 500,000 vehicles because of faulty engine ignition coils.
VW is not alone in grappling with engine oil sludge complaints. Last week the Center for Auto Safety in Washington demanded that the Chrysler group fix sludge problems and extend warranties on 2.7-liter V-6 engines in its 1998 to 2002 vehicles.
Confirming that VW has received "numerous reports of problems," VWoA spokesman Tony Fouladpour said that VW is extending factory warranties from five years to eight years. Warranties are transferable.
Changes for '05
VW is requiring its dealers to use synthetic oil and a larger oil filter in the 2005 Passat and A4. Some 2005 A4s are in dealerships. The 2005 Passat will arrive in October.
A National Highway Traffic Safety Administration source said the agency has had 12 to 15 sludge complaints for 2000 to 2004 Passats and A4s. One complaint was about an engine seizure.
VWoA will pay the cost of replacing an engine. For example, an independent repair shop in Tennessee that just replaced a sludge-damaged engine in a 1999 Passat charged the customer $2,500. Of that, $1,400 was for labor. The customer would be eligible for a reimbursement if he can show that he was having the oil changed as recommended.
VW dealers are seeing the problem mostly with owners who don't follow the recommended oil change intervals, said Gene Langan, of Gene Langan Volkswagen Inc. in Glastonbury, Conn.
"I've seen a few cases," he said. "It seems to happen mostly when we can't verify oil change history, when people don't do them for 20,000 miles. I think that this is a problem that is pretty broad in the industry right now."
VW owners will pay more for an oil change with synthetic oil, Langan said. An oil change with regular oil costs about $30, he said. It's about $65 with synthetic oil.
In its letter to Passat and A4 owners, VW says that it will cover necessary engine repairs if oil sludge causes a problem and the vehicle owner could provide proof of oil changes. Oil changes would have to be according to VW-recommended maintenance schedules. VW recommends that oil be changed at 5,000 miles or six months.
How it occurs
The letter states that engine oil sludge occurs when old, dirty engine oil thickens and cannot continue to provide correct lubrication. It says the condition occurs primarily when the engine is operated at oil change intervals beyond those prescribed in the owner's manual.
Fouladpour said VW decided to contact owners after studying the oil sludge problem that Toyota Motor Sales U.S.A. Inc. faced two years ago.
Toyota in April 2002 notified 3.3 million owners of 1997 to 2002 Toyota and Lexus vehicles with certain V-6 and four-cylinder engines that it would pay for sludge-related repairs for eight years from date of purchase. At the time, Toyota said that it had received about 3,400 sludge-related complaints.
"We looked at that and learned from their experience," Fouladpour said.
VW builds most of its 1.8 T engines at its Gyor, Hungary, engine plant.
Once enabled, and properly so (took some help) the Bluetooth engaged the A6 flawlessly everytime I entered the car (just as it should).
Call quality and sound fidelity was superlative and many people I called were blown away by the good sound, indeed, some had to remind me to lower my voice so as not to sound like I was shouting.
OK, so the phone syncs great to the A6, but what about uploading a telephone directory, and call memory? I had no luck in that department while on Verizon's system. I was told that that's because Verizon allows no SIM card in their phones -- the card that would allow the telephone directory, and call memory functions. Other carriers do allow SIMS.
So, last week I tried out T-Mobile -- rated #2 behind Verizon in call quality in a recent CR report -- here in Southern California. This time it was the latest generation Moto Razr V3. The good news is that it syncs beautifully with the car, the call memory works great as does the directory. The bad news is that signal strength and coverage is spotty on the T-Mobile area network.Some calls placed did not go through, and others, placed later in a restaurant, could barely be heard -- that is, I could not always hear or discern the other party speaking to me. Whether that's due to the phone or the service, or both, I cannot say.
One thing I can say is that when I tried using it in a business district restaurant, I could barely hear during some calls. Of course, the placement earpiece is odd and it seems like unless you have the phone right up to the precise spot on your ear, you could be out of luck.
I am curious to know how other Audi A6 Bluetooth users are enjoying (or not) their Bluetooth telephone functions. For those who have Verizon, is your experience similar to mine? Same question re T-Mobile (good and bad). If you have Verizon, are you forced to manually enter all your phone contacts? Or is there a way to transfer your phone directory through electronic means?
One last question: When I place a call out of the A6 MMI "memory" (using T-Mobile w/SIM card), and the call is being successfully connected, I seem to then be unable to call up the screen that will allow me to enter the tones and symbols to activate my home voicemail (such as *,#, or number). What is the way to get access to that screen so I can input those tones into my home voicemail box so that I may retrieve calls, etc? I did not have that problem with Verizon, btw.
Given Verizon's solid network, I'd prefer to be on it. On the other hand, it seems that a number of the Audi MMI telephone interface feature and functionality is lost without a SIM card, hence T-Mobile. Decisions, decisions (or) Frustration, frustration.
Ps. Cingular is NOT an option. Their signal is, in my own experience, quite weak and spotty around thse parts, and that is borne out too in the recent CR report.
Great! Looking forward to your observations.
*The RAZR V3c supports the Wireless Headset & Handsfree Bluetooth Profiles. It does not support Bluetooth object transfer (OBEX) profiles.
It seems that the wait continues for Verizon to market a true Bluetooth phone.
It seems that the wait continues for Verizon to market a true Bluetooth phone.
Good point. Perhaps what it will take to get them to do that is a class action lawsuit. Cetainly, the protestations of thousands of their customers nationwide have not moved them to do it.
Imagine buying a car, but being told that some its functions have been disabled (so the manufcturer could make more money). Here's one hypothetical analogy: Audi disables the AM-FM portion of your radio, and in so doing forces you to BUY the "optional" satellite radio, and by extension, contract for XM or Sirius satellite service if you want to be able to hear music and talk content -- for a fee of course.
http://dts.vzw.com/pdf/Motorola_carkit_RAZR%20V3c.pdf
o passing other cars uphill as they "slip slide away."
o leaving your driveway without concern if you've allowed enough "shovel" time
o playing in the empty parking lots (and turning off your ESP to spin some donughts)
o etc.
As you were. :shades:
-Paul
Then again, some of us with RWD cars absolutely LOVE turning off the DSC/ESP/TCS, errr whatever, and blowing donughts in parking lots and such. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
However, with the ESP off, I can, in either my wife's X3 or my A6, still entertain myself quite nicely, thank you.
But, as you probably know, ESP "off" isn't really "off off" it is just "mostly off" retaining some fail-safe capabilities in case the driver has a "stupid attack."
Yes, it takes SOME of the fun out, but generally, both of these AWD cars can still be a blast to get goin' sideways (look out for the light poles!)
If, when I was 16, someone would've told me I would be (at age 50+) going to the huge Super-Wal-Mart parking lot after a major winter precip event and spin donuts in a $50,000 car, I would have wondered what dimension, let alone planet they were from.
I love winter!