Audi A6

joe1445 · December 2000

Thanks to those who responded to my question.

gmassachusetts · December 2000

My question is, quite simply, are they really worth the cost and the trouble to find a car so equiped? anyone with experience with the nav system please provide the good and the bad so I can determine if it is more than an electronic novelty. Are they as user friendly as the 2001 Acura touch screen system? Are they as fast? I am fascinated by the technology, but rarely travel outside of a 100 mile radius from home. Thanks in advance for your input.

jdg99 · December 2000

Thanks for the advice. Can you give me a little more info on why it would be money well spent? I'm a little nervous about owning a car that will generate more than $1000 in repair bills over the next two years.

markcincinnati · December 2000

The GPS system on the Audi of America cars works. It works well. It is a "mostly" text and audio based system. It provides the identical voice and directional capabilities as my buddy's 2001 BMW 740i -- and, it is as easy to use as the full color graphical based system on the Bimmer. It appears to use the same CD (there are 6 of them for the US). I do not know how "easy" other systems are in comparison. I wish the Blaupunkt unit that is in these German cars used a DVD -- but that is a minor gripe, especially if you always drive locally and use other forms of transportation outside of your home turf. The system is fast, once it has been "booted up."

If you never venture beyond 100 miles -- well, it might be just an electronic novelty. Even though my friend's Bimmer's unit looks "cooler" the directions and capabilities it provides are the same as my Audi's. Audi bundles the Nav system on the 2001 4.2 A6 with acoustic parking assist, which I do like and would pay for separately if available (rear only). The Nav system would seem to be fairly useful if you lived in a medium to large urban area and had to make "sales calls" to many unfamiliar addresses. I have found the accuracy to be excellent, but not perfect.

Having said this, I like it, I think it costs too much perhaps by one-third. But, it was less than the unit on both the Merc 430 and the BMW. Interestingly, there is an Audi unit in Germany called Navigation Plus which is virtually identical to the US BMW's and Mercedes' version -- go figure.

My wife's 2001 Audi TT (6 months old) has Sat Nav and she has used it "for real" only twice. My 2001 A6 4.2 (one month old) has had it's Sat Nav system called into play "for real" twice, too. Again, go figure. In all fairness my wife drives "locally" in Cincinnati and we have taken the A6 to Columbus and Pittsburgh (and through West Virginia) and Sat Nav came in very handy. It cut time off of our trips to these medium-size urban areas -- significant time. I believe that it also made me a "safer driver" in that I spent more time on the act of driving than looking for street signs, exit ramps and so on.

The review, as you can tell, is mixed. I would buy it again, if that helps you -- but then again, I traded-in a 16 month old 2000 A6 4.2 just to get a 2001 A6 4.2 because of the ESP feature -- so I may be a fanatic when it comes to having the latest "gadgets." Confession is good, sometimes.

Good luck.

rwish · December 2000

I just recently purchased a used Audi A6 after MONTHS of searching. I couldn't be happier with the purchase. It's a 2000 A6 2.7T, manual, black/black with all the trimmings (i.e. leather, cold weather, sport pkg…really all except for the warm weather pkg). I'd been looking since around April and patiently waiting until I found the needle in the haystack. Only two downsides: 1.) the fact that I had to wait so long and 2.) it had 24,000 miles on it despite only being a year old. I wasn't necessarily happy with that many miles for a car one year old but with the solid construction at $36K, it was an excellent deal. I'm looking forward to coming back to read about all of your Audi experiences.

mbnut1 · December 2000

First of all I am assuming that you are going to get the Audi Assured warranty extension which will take you to 5 yr and 75K miles. The price to get this coverage with a reputable after market warranty such as GE Capital will cost you more than twice the $1K. Audi's are wonderful cars to drive and be in. Based on my experience with my A4 turbo quattro they can need fixing and when they need to be fixed that can be expensive. As mine is about to go out of warranty I asked my service advisor about getting an extended warranty and he encouraged me to do it. He said that it doesn't take much to eat of that kind of money. I suspect that most experienced Audi owners would pay $500 / year to have their repair bills capped to that level. If I was in your shoes I would go for it. Both the car and the warranty. The A6 is a really nice car.

manthony1948 · December 2000

Thought I'd throw this subject out there one more time to see if anybody has any thoughts on it. We've had our new 2.8Q about a month now and everything's great except for how the transmission shifts. There seems to be quite a bit of lag time before the transmission reacts to want I want it to do. Has anybody had their dealer correct this problem or is it considered "normal" for this car? We're taking the car in to have it checked by the dealer in about a month (first available appointment!) and I'd like to have the benefit of others' experience before I talk with the service advisor. Thanks. - Mike

jbarron2 · December 2000

I have test driven both the 4.2 and 2.7T. The 4.2 is a heavier car, thus the reason for a better ride. The engine, being a v8, sounds stronger, more refined. It has more low end torque off the line, and seems quicker at first. The 2.7T is a lighter car, the ride is a little more harsh. Basically, I liked the 4.2 much better, but the price, at $5K to $8K more, may not be worth it. Plus you can get a chip at aprgo.com for the 2.7T that will give the car another 50HP and 80 lbs torque. Then you have a really fast hotrod on your hands for another $600.

mog112 · January 2001

I heard from my local Audi Dealership that there is a chip that can increase the performance of A6 2.7T upto 310hp. Is this true? Is it bad for the car?

timcar · January 2001

There are a number of chip manufactures who make different chips that will increase hp and torque on the 2.7T in both the A6 and S4. The question whether it's bad for the car is an open issue. Anything that puts more stress on the car increases the risk of failure of a part or a system. How much it increases that risk hasn't been quantified. Chip makers and sellers are dependent on their reputation, so they do try to produce products that will satisfy their customers expectations for reliability. I notice you are in Warren. There is a retailer in Flemington for the GIAC chip by the name of PES. They have a good reputation. You might want to investigate them. Here's their URL -

http://www.pes-tuning.com/index2.htm

You also might want to check out AudiWorld's A6 and S4 forums since chipping is a frequent topic of discussion.

turboman · January 2001

I have a 2000 2.7T and had my first real opportunity to use the fog lights recently. To my dismay I discovered that the fog lights can only be engaged with the headlights ON. This makes no sense, as the whole point of fog lights is their casting a low-angled wide beam which disperses less than headlights. To not allow you to engage them with the parking lights defeats their entire purpose. Any Comments? (ps:Mercedes does design their fog lights to be used with parking lamps only.)

rwish · January 2001

I'm a little confused about Audi's offerings of a "sport suspension" on the A6. I had at first assumed that the sport package, among other items, meant a different suspension. As I now understand, the "sport package" offered with the A6 model simply means 1.) 16" spoke alloy wheels, 2.) A slightly different steering wheel and 3.) Sport seats. It has nothing to due with suspension. Now for the question(s): Does the 2.7T automatically imply that it has a sport suspension and if not is there a package that does offer this? I can’t imagine having a 250HP twin cooled bi-turbo without a nice tight suspension to go with it.

Thanks,
RW

markcincinnati · January 2001

Turboman:

It never crossed my mind to use fog lights without low beams -- so when I read your comments, I wondered under what circumstances you would want fog lights without low beams.

I suspect that Audi (and I thought until I read your Mercedes comment, all car makers) doesn't want you to turn on the fog lights and "forget" to turn on your low beams -- which is, from one point of view, either a safety feature or a product liability "feature."

My "pet peeve" is people who use fog lights when there is no fog -- in fact Car and Driver had a fairly scathing and funny article about people who do just that (as well as other things, like being a left lane bandit).

But, to return to your point:

I can see your point, but generally speaking, fog lights have two purposes -- to allow YOU to see better and to allow OTHERS to see you better (the Audi also has a single, RED rear fog light). If there is morning fog -- and the sun is up, i.e., it is relatively light outside -- the front fog lights really have little purpose for the driver. In this instance, I would assume that the logical conclusion is that the use of the fog lights for the benefit of the driver would be at night -- when you would want/need your low beams on anyway (and I believe they are required to be on at night, under any circumstances, by law). If it was both foggy and light out, the fog light's primary purpose would be to allow others to see you -- and in this case the low beams would also be of assistance in being seen.

So, as I write this, I think that Audi is probably bringing their cars to this market with the low beam & fog light combination "rules" for product liability reasons and arguably "common sense" reasons -- but as the man once said, common sense is only common to one person at a time.

Just don't let me catch you with your fog lights and low beams on when it is a perfectly clear night!

markcincinnati · January 2001

Check your dealer or any one of the web sites -- www.audiusa.com would be a good start.

The Sport Suspension on the A6's (2.7T and 4.2) DO include: suspension, wheel/tire and seating differences. Now, you can even get the 2.7T with a sport suspension AND 17" wheels.

Only on the 4.2 is there a "sport" wheel/tire upgrade that does not affect the suspension -- go for the sport package, it really does include a different (lower, stiffer) suspension -- unless the web and my dealer are both misinformed.

I have an A6 w/sport suspension -- it makes a big difference!

jim3039 · January 2001

After months of being on the fence between a Saab 9-5 and an A6 2.8, I finally purchased my A6 (Racing Green/Melange) on New Years Eve at what I think was a great price - $1,370 over invoice. If you are buying a 2.8, I highly recommend holding out for the Premium Pkg (multi-function steering wheel, memory seats/mirrors and xenon headlights). While its difficult to find a 2.8 equipped with the Premium Pkg, Leather & Sunroof/homelink, it is truly a classy combo. If you are shopping for an Audi in the Los Angeles area, my experience with David Wolf at Beverly Hills Audi was a good one. Thanks to everyone who provided great advice via this forum.

Jim

mpuzach · January 2001

Congratulations! You got a great deal on a great car. (Of course, as the owner of a Racing Green/Tungsten Gray 2.8Q I guess I'm a little biased!)

I'm sure that you're already familiar with the requisite "precautions", but just in case...

1. Vary your speed often (and don't use the cruise control) during the 1st 1000 miles.

2. Try to avoid high R.P.M.s for the 1st 1000 miles.

3. DO NOT change the oil until you hit 8000 miles. I'm no mechanic and don't claim to understand the technical end of this, but my dealer was very specific in telling me that this is crucial to proper seating of the piston rings.

4. Check your oil often (every 1000 miles or so); it's normal for these engines to burn oil for the first several thousand miles. By the time of the 8000 mile change, oil consumption usually stops. I added a quart at 1400 miles and used about a half quart from then until my 8000 mile change.

5. As beautiful as the Racing Green Pearl Effect is, it's extremely high-maintenance. Not only is it unforgiving of dirt and dust, but it also shows every little hair-like scratch from washing & drying. If you need help, feel free to send me an e-mail and I'll tell you about some products that I've had success with in preventing and getting rid of these tiny scratches. I'll tell you this - using only 100% cotton American-made towels DOES NOT prevent these tiny scratches from appearing!

Yeah, the stuff in the '01 Premium Package is great. The items were bundled a little differently in my 2000 (e.g. xenons were a separate, stand-alone option), but they're all there. I don't think I'll ever own another car without them (or auto-dimming mirrors, for that matter).

Enjoy your new car. I know you will.

- Mike

jesk · January 2001

I am currently shopping for a new A6 4.2 and want to lease it. The car I want will have a sports and premium package on it, basically everything except the GPS. Can anyone give me any insight into what would be a reasonable payment on a 36 mo lease with 10k miles per yr?

jim3039 · January 2001

Mike,
Thanks for your great advice over the last several months. Funny that you mention to change the oil at 8,000 miles. When my dealer was taking me through the orientation, he originally told me to bring it in at 8,000 for an oil change. Then he reference the 2001 manual, which has revised the recommendation to 5,000 miles or 6 months. Not sure why Audi revised their thinking on this one.

Jim

marsha7 · January 2001

you mentioned 2.8, but never stated whether or not you chose quattro.

mpuzach · January 2001

That's a new one on me. Thanks for the clarification, Jim.

Does your manual show a recommended interval of EVERY 5000 miles, or is that for the initial oil change only? Also, does the manual show the same interval for all 3 engines (2.8, 2.7T, and 4.2)?

- Mike

P.. I just came inside after finishing a complete "revitalization" of my A6, i.. wash, polish, gloss enhance, and interior vacuum, dusting, wood polish, etc. I tried out a new (to me) type of cloth for washing & polishing, as well as 3M "One Step Cleaner Wax" for getting rid of the tiny scratches presumably caused by the 100% cotton towels I'd been using. The results were very good; there's a HUGE reduction in the scratches (I have to look extremely closely to see any remaining evidence of them) and the car shines as though it's wet. We'll see whether or not it holds up.

rwish · January 2001

Jim,

My 2000 Audi maintenance manual lists a change every 5000 miles OR every 8000 kilometers (the kilometers are shown in parenthesis) FOR THE 1.8L 5 valve Turbo ONLY. For the 2.7T, 2.8 and 4.2 it is every 8000 miles or 12,000 kilometers. I think it's easy to get confused if not paying attention due to the number 8000 showing up in the 1.8L list as kilometers and then 8000 also showing up in the list for the other three engines for miles.

Rick

rwish · January 2001

Mike,

I have a question about the 3M product you recently mentioned. A Jeep with a gray bumper brushed up along the right rear of my black Audi recently (it barely grazed). Most of what it left could be removed with cloth and water but there is still what some call "swirl" and others may call "bloom" left. You can't notice unless it's pointed out but I of course notice. I've been looking into products to remove those tiny swirl scratches and wonder what you think the results of your 3M product might be for this application. Is this product safe for the clear coat? That's my biggest concern. Also, have you ever heard of the Turtle Wax product "Scratch and Swirl remover"? I've heard from another person this works very well and he swore it didn't affect the clear coat.

Thanks,
Rick

jim3039 · January 2001

Because I live in Southern California and what weather we have is limited at best, I opted not get Quattro. I had no trouble finding models in Los Angeles not equipped with it. Just let me know if you have any other shopping questions, my search was extensive!

jim3039 · January 2001

While I don't currently have my manual handy, I'll trust Rick on this. In fact now I do recall my dealer also being confused by the miles/kilometers issue as well. So, it's very possible he was also reading the wrong engine type. I need to run out at lunch and will reference my manual carefully. But, he also told me the computer on the car would tell me when schedule an oil change. Is this true? I obviously have not read the manual page by page yet.

mpuzach · January 2001

The instructions on the bottle very clearly state that the product is safe for clear coat, so that isn't an issue. Since the marks you're referring to were caused by another vehicle, it's questionable whether or not this product is "strong" enough to remove them. The good news is that you can try it without risk, as it won't damage your finish in any way. One thing I learned is that it works best if applied AND removed by moving the cloth in a circular motion (rather than back and forth or in one direction).

The Turtle Wax product you mentioned is another good one. It sounds like you'd be safe in trying either one on your marks; if they don't do the trick, you can always VERY CAREFULLY try some fine polishing compound.

By the way, another "trick" I've learned is to apply a spray-on gloss enhance after waxing/polishing. I just tried Wizard's Mist and Shine and it's fabulous. You simply spray it on very lightly over a few square feet at a time and immediately wipe it off with a soft cloth. It only takes a half hour or so to do the entire car. The result is an even better shine; in addition, this process takes off any remaining wax dust. Highly recommended.

markcincinnati · January 2001

With ZERO out of pocket -- I would assume the number MINIMUM would begin with a 7 -- possibly an 8 -- I have a 30 mo lease and my number begins with a 9 on a stickered $55K+ '01 4.2. My annual milage number is 15K, however and my term is shorter -- I got $3K+ off, Audi made payment #1 and no sec dep. I think I got an OK deal (I used Audi financial) -- part of my payment component is made up of the fact that I had a little negative equity on the 2000 4.2 I traded in (after 16 months on a 27 month lease). You should do better, if you are not in the same situation -- or if you have some "cap cost reduction" of some sort (trade or cash).

Hope this helps.

craigu · January 2001

I need some help. I just bought a new 2000 2.7T and love it except for one big problem - it feels like it has way too much power steering - can't feel the tug of the road against my hands until I get to around 80 mph. even my wife's Lexus 470 has a better feel. problem is when I test drove A6's, I am certain that the one I test drove (not the one I bought) had a much tighter feel. I think I tested a 2001. I have asked my dealer about this and he claims that there is no difference between the 2000 and 2001 handling/feel, but Emunds.com lists the sport package option for 2000 model (which I have) differently than the description for the 2001 option. Specifically, the 2001 description includes the words "sports suspension" which are not included in the 2000 description. Am I crazy or is there a diffrence between the 2000 and the 2001 sports package? If I screwed up and bought the wrong car - any advice? The car had 25 miles on it when I bought it and now has 500. Appreciate any help.

vkj · January 2001

there may be a difference in suspensions. Check on Audiworld.com at the a6 forum for more information. Also what tires did your car come with? If you have goodyears that would explain some of the softness. Some of the 2001 sports packages came with Dunlop 9000 and some came with Goodyears. The Dunlops are lot sportier. Not sure about the 2000 models

dwpc · January 2001

Though I don't mind the light steering, yours is a common comment. Check the A6 forum at audiworld.com. Some one recently posted a method to reduce the power assist on the steering.

craigu · January 2001

I need some help. I just bought a new 2000 2.7T and love it except for one big problem - it feels like it has way too much power steering - can't feel the tug of the road against my hands until I get to around 80 mph. even my wife's Lexus 470 has a better feel. problem is when I test drove A6's, I am certain that the one I test drove (not the one I bought) had a much tighter feel. I think I tested a 2001. I have asked my dealer about this and he claims that there is no difference between the 2000 and 2001 handling/feel, but Emunds.com lists the sport package option for 2000 model (which I have) differently than the description for the 2001 option. Specifically, the 2001 description includes the words "sports suspension" which are not included in the 2000 description. Am I crazy or is there a diffrence between the 2000 and the 2001 sports package? If I screwed up and bought the wrong car - any advice? The car had 25 miles on it when I bought it and now has 500. Appreciate any help.

emccartney · January 2001

OD, here's a new one. After 39,000 rattle free miles all of a sudden I'm getting a metallic tink-tink sound at about 40 mph. Sounds like it's coming from the left "A" pillar but it could be the headline, air conditioning vent or even the drivers door frame. What a mystery. Anyone else have a similar issue... if so what was the fix?

marsha7 · January 2001

always want to know all the factors that went into your purchase...kinda like my standard barrage of questions...tell me what you wish...one specific thing...with all the things I read about quattro, do you feel your 2.8 handles as well as the others?...since I live in Atlanta, your reasons may apply to me...good luck with your audi, and thanks for your time and comments.

timcar · January 2001

Dollars over dealer invoice for 4.2 should be similar to 2.7T, I.., $1K to $2k. Residuals aren't that simple. Depends on many factors - length of lease, number of miles allowed, month of year, region of country, and most importantly, what the lessor is willing to give you. Audi Financial can be generous. If you wish to em-ail the specifics, I'll try to give you an approximation. tmsci@worldnet.att.net.

timcar · January 2001

rwish · January 2001

I've been checking a lot of the Audi boards recently and the number one enhancement recommendation for the A6 2.7T seems to be for 17" tires. Most who do recommend a 17" tire upgrade speak of the Dunlop SP Sport 5000. A few comments/concerns:

The pros of this tire seem to be the price, cornering and "all weather" ability. I've heard some complaints about thin sidewalls though (some have even called it a "cheap" performance tire). I'd be interested in comments about this tire and in general comments about other 17" performance tires for the 2.7T. Also, why don't I see more people recommend the SP Sport 9000 in the 17" variety? I was under the impression that this was also a high performance tire that was decent for all weather driving.

Thanks,
Rick

marcozzi · January 2001

TEST TEST TEST TEST TEST TEST TEST TEST

markcincinnati · January 2001

$.02 worth:

The Dunlop SP 9000's (255 x 40 x 17") came on my 2000 A6 4.2 -- I replaced them at 20,000 miles with new 9000's -- best tires from any perspective I have ever had (well, OK they're not all season tires, so they are only OK in the winter -- but with a quattro in Cincinnati, snow or all-season tires are a performance compromise we don't really have to make).

I would recommend them very highly -- they are better than the Pirelli P6000's on my 2001 A6 4.2 (sport package). I will replace the P6000's with the SP 9000's -- they (the 9000's) are just that good!

Heck, even the 8000's are pretty darn good (came on my friend's '99 A4 2.8 q w/ sport package). Better, in my opinion than the Pirelli's I have now.

rwish · January 2001

Mark,

Actually I live in Cincy too! My 2000 2.7 come with the same Dunlop 9000 tires you mentioned BUT they are 16" and there in lies the rub. I'd really like to have 17" for better and tighter handling. My justification for 17" Dunlop 5000 or 17" Pirelli P7000 tires was going to be that that they were "all-weather". The 8000 series isn't an option. While the 9000 may hold up in Cincy winters, the 8000 won't. They are strictly a "sticky" tire for the summer. If I had your 17" 9000's, I'd be content too. I'm kind of in a quandary as to what to do. I see 3 options:
1.) stay with Dunlop 9000's in 16"
2.) move to Dunlop 9000's in 17"
3.) move to Dunlop 5000's in 17" (or the Pirelli)

Thanks,
Rick

turboman · January 2001

I Had the same problem on my 2000 2.7T. Although I was certain it was coming from the headliner, the dealer insisted on replacing the A-pillar first. This, by the way is an EXTREMELY difficult process as the pillar is damaged during removal. Finally, the cause was found to be the headliner rattling against the roof. It was corrected by taking down the headliner and installing some extra padding. Of course,in the process, the 2nd A-pillar was damaged and had to be replaced. So, all in all, I went through 3 A-pillars before the problem was ultimately corrected. It also took 3 trips to the dealer. Good Luck!

markcincinnati · January 2001

Rwish:

My one month old 2001 A6 4.2 w/sport package has Pirelli P6000's Z rated 255 x 40 x 17 -- and they are OK -- but not when compared to the SP 9000's. I have not personally had experience with the 8000's -- but my friend (he lives in Dallas) swears by them (on his 1999 A4 2.8 quattro with sport suspension package).

If I were in your shoes, I would PROBABLY go with 17" SP9000's == you can even buy Audi 17" wheels (from the Audi accessory book) either on line or at the dealer (I think they will cut you a deal if you ask nicely -- at the dealer, that is).

I plan to replace my P6000's with the Dunlop SP 9000's -- and keep the Audi 17" sport package wheels.

Keep us posted as to your choice. And good luck.

dwpc · January 2001

Be aware that going to 17's will probably give you a substantially harsher ride (not to be confused with farmer). You'll feel every crack in the pavement.

markcincinnati · January 2001

Rwish:

My 1997 A8 came with 17" wheels and 55 series tires, I "plus zero'd" them to 50 series tires and even replaced the stock US A8 suspension with the German "S8" sport suspension -- what little harshness I noticed was minimal (a stiffer ride, better performance, yes -- hardly harsh). Both of my A6 4.2's (one with sport suspension and one with standard suspension) came with 255 x 40 x 17 wheel/tires (the lower the profile, i.e., the number "40" in this case, the harsher the ride). I "dreaded" the harsh ride I was absolutely certain would accompany this wheel/tire combo.

Again, "hardly harsh" at all was my reaction. The lowest profile tire I had even ridden/driven was on an S4 which had 225 x 45 x 17"s and I "knew" my butt would feel every expansion joint and my ears would hear every crack -- cross my heart -- no butt bouncing and -- especially with the Dunlop SP9000's -- very little road noise (on the A6's that is).

I read an article that said lower profile tires (which usually are a consequence of increasing the wheel's diameter over "the stock set up") can improve handling, can make the car look better, can make the car ride more harshly and can be noisier -- and, they can be more susecptible to "damage" from pot holes (because the sidewalls are stiffer). The article said that lower profile tires have become more "viable" as the body and frames of cars in recent years have increased torsional stiffness.

While I do not have an engineering degree, I think this means the stiffness of the sidewall is much more of an issue (with respect to ride harshness) if the car that these stiff tires are mounted on/under is itself NOT stiff.

Audi (and several others) have made huge strides in chassis stiffness over the past few years (must be working with all that aluminium) -- and with my butt and my ears as witnesses, a 2000 or 2001 Audi A4, A6, A8, TT, Allroad, S4 and S8 are not adversely effected by a "plus one" [17" wheel in your case, rwish] sizing of the wheel/tire combination (the 8's even seem great with the 18" wheels).

So while I agree with the sentiments and the principle of dwpc's statement, I believe that you will NOT have a substantially harsher ride. You may notice some extra firmness and you will notice better performance and, depending on the wheels, the car will have an improved appearance. There are some pretty nice Audi wheels -- they will set your car apart, but they are "Audi" accessories (and there are a whole host of cool wheels available from many sources here on the WWW).

That's the way I see it rwish!

Go for the 17's.

marsha7 · January 2001

for all of your aggravation with the headliner repair, at least it sounds like the dealer was attempting to fix the problem, rather than poo-poo it and say that the problem will "go away with time."

bthirk · January 2001

Ready to go forward with a purchase of a 2.7T. Curious if anybody has thoughts on the 17" version of the Sport Package (PST) and the Premium Radio (PBS). I have heard mixed reviews on these items. Any comments would be helpful.

Thanks!!

mpuzach · January 2001

I suggest listening to both (standard and dose) systems before you decide. The two systems have quite different sound characteristics. Although the dose system costs more, there are MANY A6 owners (including me) who prefer the sound of the standard system. This is a perfect example of a situation where your own personal taste may very well favor the less-expensive choice.

Here's a recommended methodology: Take a few of your favorite ODs to a dealer and locate a pair of A6 sedans, one with the standard system and one with the dose. (Note that you can listen to the stereo systems without a key; as long as the cars are unlocked you don't need to involve a sales person.) I usually then set the bass, treble, and mid range controls to their "flat" (decent) positions; another logical approach is to adjust them for the best sound, subjectively determined by your ear. Once you've adjusted each system to your liking, it's a simple matter of deciding which sound characteristics you prefer.

In addition, be aware that the head unit is the same regardless of which system you choose; only the maps and speakers differ. With the dose system, the maps and speakers are matched to each other. (The amps provide required equalization for the Bose speakers.) Therefore, you can't replace one (with an after-market upgrade) without upgrading the other; if you upgrade the amps and speakers you've thus completely nullified the Bose package. Bottom line: If you intend to upgrade amps and/or speakers, get the standard audio system.

cgw · January 2001

I see you used the new spell checker (since I assume you meant Bose, not dose and CDs, not ODs). In a post I made elsewhere, it changed hp to up. Such is progress.

mpuzach · January 2001

Wow, look at that! Yes, I used the spell checker and didn't realize that it changes things on its own!

Thanks for the heads-up, Chris!

- Mike

markcincinnati · January 2001

If you want to upgrade the sound system in your Audi -- DO NOT BUY THE PREMIUM BOSE upgrade. Do not even think about it.

There are several after - market upgrades that are better than virtually anyone's "factory" system -- having said that the Audi Bose system is pretty good -- and there is a fair amount of punch added due to the subwoofer in the BOSE upgrade.

The advice above is best, take a CD that you know VERY WELL and listen to it (from the same posistion -- say, the driver's seat) in a Bose and Standard system equipped cars -- back to back (and with the windows rolled up). Remember that the louder system will appear to be "better" -- set the tone controls for your "best" sound and then crank the volume to the same levels on both cars -- you may find the Bose just isn't worth it -- especially if you mostly listen to the radio and moreso if you mostly listen to AM radio. Much FM radio is so compressed that even it doesn't have much in the way of very low or very high frequecies.

Also there is a phrase, that does have its roots in truth -- "no highs, no lows. . .must be Bose."

This phrase came from the original Bose "direct reflecting" loudspeaker which used, as I recall, 8 identical drivers facing the same direction and one "on the other side" -- the speakers in this array were all so-called midrange speakers that produced highs and lows via an electronic manipulation called "equalization." Many Bose systems, today DO have tweeters and woofers -- not just mid-range, but this is just a bit of the very deep Bose root. Mostly a story -- not too true today.

Take a test listen is still the best advice.

tkelly4 · January 2001

I am interested in adding CD Changer to my sound system for A6 2000 model. Are there any suggestions that are less expensive than the dealer installed model.

timcar · January 2001

Quite a few folks have bought their Audi CD changer from Clair via mailorder for a few hundred. Like, 40% to 50% of new list. URL included.

http://www.clair.com/

Audi A6

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