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according to bernhard, the C and D platforms are highly flexible meaning relatively large variations in width, length and cowl height are possible. thus it would be easy to presume that DC could build both rather large intrepids and somewhat smaller galants off the same platform...
I see Camrys now, with sticker prices in the $30,000 range, so I'd imagine the typical ES300 is a lot more than that! Also, maybe things are different with the ES300, but the Camry upon which it's based seems to have actually gone through a bit of a cheapening with this restyle. I notice more cheap, hard plastics and less soft-touch stuff than in previous models, as well as the old "goose-neck" torsion bar trunk hinges, that must date back to the dawn of automotive history!
Sure, depreciation is something to consider, but I'm going to choose a car based on whether I actually like it or not and it suits my needs, instead of solely on depreciation.
i agree with andre. the latest iteration of the camry and es300 is nothing for toyota stylists to brag about. looks sorta slab sided/chunky. the front end looks nice but the rest of the car, they can have. and toyo is still using the gooseneck trunk hinges! what is up with that??
The only advantage I can think of for the old torsion bar hinges is that those struts can go bad over time. But then so do the torsion bars, which is why there are usually three settings for them. Once they start getting weak in the first setting, you just adjust them to the next. At least the struts would probably be fairly easy to replace.
TX,
Raven
i'm not even sure why somebody touting lexus would even be here? unless...
btw, you pay dearly for those so-called advancements in safety. and the lexus is considered a luxury car, right. therefore it had better have all the gussied up goodies that it's sister car camry doesn't get...!
Have a safe holiday weekend!
the electric seat in my 96 intrepid would occasionally shift a tad...but i doubt it was a half inch! probably more like an 1/8 of an inch altho i understand how it might feel like a half inch. neither my 98 or 00 had (have) displayed any weird seat maneavers. anyway, sorry to hear about the damage. btw, what cd was causing all the skipping?? if it was barry manilow, i fully understand and your cd player is trying to drop hints!!
i especially miss the car at fill-er-up time!!! i do, however, really like my s-crew.
if you get the new quad...you gotta wait for the hemi! unless you plan to get 2wd then the 4.7l will prolly suffice. i just wish the quad had a more supportive back seat/little more room back there. anyhoo, let us know what you decide to do...
The nice thing about the Ram though, is that it almost gives you a 6 1/2 foot bed, whereas the SuperCrew and styling misfits like the Avalanche/Escalade are considerably stubbier. Although they do have much roomier back seats.
Then again, the Quad cab is still roomier than more traditional extended-cab trucks like what Ford and Chevy offer, so it strikes a good all-around balance.
Hence the 2000 Intrepid R/T. I can borrow a truck from my brother in law, but that is maybe once a year.
(I'm single, but do have one other vehicle - my 67 Galaxie 500XL convertible)
I am trying to find an answer for a problem with my Dodge Intrepid 1997 ES.
It is about the brakes. Sometimes the brakes seem to get stuck in the braking position when pushed too much at a stop. Thus, the front wheels get very very hot even after running at slow speeds and without using the brakes too much or at all.
The car still runs thanks to its powerful engine,
but with a degree of continuos braking, which is obvious when shifting gears (a shake and hesitation is felt) or when releasing the gas pedal at slow speed - the car immediately slows down dramatically- .
It is also noticeable that the fuel consumption goes up, and in general a lot of the power of the car seems lost when running on normal road or highway conditions.
As another conseqeunce, the ride is stiffer. (the
suspension seems rougher, since the wheels are
partially blocked).
I sought relief from this situation by changing the calipers and brake pads: no change.
I took the car to a Dodge dealer and they could not find any problems, they said.
Friends suggested it may be problem with the ABS
sensors or the brake central pump.
This blocking of the wheels usually happens after
driving on dirty roads, and funny enough, it may
dissapear after washing the wheels with a strong jet of water, or taking the wheels off and putting them back on.
Could it be that ABS sensors get dirty and send
innapropriate signals to the computer?
It may also happen when my wife drives the car... She is very inexperienced at driving. She may push the brakes too hard unnecessarily at stops, when the brake pedal pushed excesivelly turns soft and goes down to the floor. This is when the brakes seems to get locked in the "on" position.
I wonder if you could help me please to solve this problem. Has anybody found something similar at a Dodge Intrepid ES 1997?
What would be the solution?
Please reply at alp29@yahoo.com.
Thank you very much.
Sincerely,
Alexandru Papoiu.
I read with delight that Chrysler's JD Power numbers were higher than VW... Bet we won't here the foamy mouthed Passat dogmatists chatting up that tidbit!
a mid life crisis vehicle is a VIPER, not a truck! btw, the 45rfe (multispeed) isn't available behind the 5.9l engine, only behind the 3.7l and 4.7l engines. the 5.9l is hooked up to the old 46re tranny, and that tranny only. when the hemi debuts this fall, it'll be available with the newer 5-45rfe which is basically a 45rfe that eeks out another overdrive ratio to give it 5 speeds. the 5-45rfe has been serving duty in the grand cherokee and durango for a year or two.
i'm real interested to see and feel how the hemi performs in these trucks. i've heard great things about the 45rfe tranny too. i don't think i'll trade when the hemi becomes available, but i'm definitely gonna take a test drive!!
keep us informed...
Have you seen the Letter from the Town Hall Manager on the Town Hall Welcome page? If not, you might want to follow that link to have a look.
And hang on to your seats. Change is never easy - for any of us - but resolving the Search problems we've had will be worth the pain.
Pat
Sedans Host
At 57,000 miles on my Concorde I have changed my rotors twice and brake pads thrice. The dealer says that it is normal maintenance.
BTW, I do not have a lead foot.
My rear brake pads made it to 51,000 miles. Only thing I can think of in your case, is maybe if you're having the dealer or someplace else rotate the tires, they're over-torquing the lug nuts? I know it's real easy to warp them that way. I rotate my own tires and always hand-tighten the lug nuts.
Oh yeah, I should add that I used to deliver pizzas with this car, so by all rights, I should've gone through brakes much faster than you! Unless you're moonlighting as a cabbie or delivery driver or something!
Sorry I can't be more precise. I haven't lost a tire (or even a lug nut) yet, or warped a rotor, so I must be guessing pretty close!
Something else that might mess up the rotors too, is the order you put the lug nuts on. I was always taught to put one nut on, and then put the nut on that would be the furthest away. With a 5-bolt pattern, you'd actually have a choice of two lugs. Then go to the next lug that's furthest away. Basically, just like drawing a 5-pointed star. This way, you don't put too much stress on one side of the rotor all at once.
How major of a repair is it if the engine mounts are bad?
Seriously though, I don't think it should be too big of a deal. They just lift the engine up a little bit, there's one bolt that goes from the mount to the engine, and one bolt that goes from the mount to the sub-frame (well, on a Dart, at least!)
try using a different brand of gasoline. i've noticed that most of my vehicles have idled rougher on ethanol blended fuels...for whatever reason.
I went with OEM Parts this time.
I do not know if Bendix Pads and Rotors are any better but It might be worth a try next time, if I have to replace in another 20,000 miles.
Well, when I checked the brakes, they still had plenty of meat on 'em, so I waited until they got a little low. Ended up swapping out the front ones at 39,000. I just did it myself. The back ones finally needed it around 51,000 and I just had my mechanic put on the brakes I had already bought.
It just blows me away how quick rotors go nowadays though! We recently had new rotors put on my grandmother's '85 Buick LeSabre, but it has about 156,000 miles on it, so I guess that's no big shock. Only Chrysler product I ever put rotors on was a '79 Newport. It had about 230,000 miles on it (I don't know if they were original rotors or not, though).
One thing I've heard is that if you have the rotors cross-drilled, they'll dissipate heat better and last longer. Don't know if it's true or not, and I've never had it done.
So if you are going to pay so much for labor then better get the best available pads and rotors.
http://public.fotki.com/Scotian/300m/exterior/razorstar_wheels/slotted_rotors/
These things are great!
Low and behold, I called today, the new coil was in, but the thing still running rough. Therefore a new "controller" is on order, and will be in next week. I'll keep you all informed.
PS...And to think I dumped my Malibu because it had engine problems!
Picked it up today, because I needed something to drive this weekend. Runs a little better than before, but not perfect, I guess that is where the control module comes in...they called it a "PCM"
c01 -njdevilsrn did not say the dealer could not find the problem .What the dealer said is , it needs a new computer and they are on backorder .The dealer knows what's wrong and will change the part when it comes in.