Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Dodge Intrepid

1424345474867

Comments

  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    with my 2.7, is that once you load the car up, performance does suffer considerably. It's fine with just one or two people on board, but I've noticed that a 3rd person does take its toll. And the first time I tried accelerating onto a highway with 4 people on board (after I'd only had the car maybe a week) I though I was going to kill us!

    And for even more fun and excitement, try taking 4 people and a trunk full of luggage on a trip through the mountains, and see what it does to performance!

    But then again, before my Intrepid, I drove an '89 Gran Fury police pursuit. Nothing felt like it would slow that car down. Hell, you could probably tie a Neon or two to it, and it wouldn't slow it down much! ;-)
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Let's not confuse issues with problems... Diminished acceleration is to be expected with more weight. Shove passengers and luggage into a diesel Golf (if they fit) and consider the "performance" issues...
        Nice to know that just like death and taxes jbbw's idiocy is predictable and consistent.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    okay, so ya got me on semantics ;-)

    I agree, you shove a bunch of passengers and cargo into most modern cars with smaller engines that rev high to get their hp and torque, and you'll probably get the same results. It was just a new experience to me, as most of my cars in the past had been V-8's, some of them easily twice the Intrepid's displacement. Honestly, the Intrepid would smoke most of them, with just one person on board, but as you add weight, the additional torque would just give those older cars an advantage.

    Now if I'd gone from a Golf Diesel to an Intrepid 2.7, I'd probably be singing the praises of it's acceleration when fully loaded! I guess it all depends on what you're coming from, and what you were used to in the past.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Troubles with our '99 3.2 since we bought it 4 years ago:

    1. All 4 power window motors were replaced within a year of having the car--a flaw that many ofm had during that time, including the Concordes and LHSs. I think that has been resolved a long time ago. Obviously a bad supplier.

    2. AC went out much too early--only at 45,000 miles and had to be replaced. I don't think that should have happened, but others tell me a similar story. I hope they have improved that a little over the years.

    3. Speed sensor had to be replaced at about 45,000 miles--about $150

    Now about reliability--it has started and run everytime I have needed it to, never stranded us anywhere. The engine and drivetrain have never given us problems to date (knock on wood). I have been religious about frequency of oil changes and transmission service. After 5 years, I would expect that it has been on the low side of average to maintain.

    Had the dealer change the coolant today. They too, said the hoses were fine. I have had them do the maintenance on it, because they gave me discount coupons for the regular maintenance when I bought it in March, 1999. Also, I have some confidence that they will put the correct fluids, particulary the right ATF (which is so important).
  • smokeysmokey Member Posts: 1
    Have any of you experienced hwy speed stalling with your intrepid? Approx 100,000 miles on it. I look forward to feedback as to what the problem may be.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    with my Intrepid, but have had that problem with other cars. It's almost always been the distributor. Now I know Intrepids don't use distributors, but I'd suspect that it might be something in whatever they call the thing that replaced it!

    Mine wouldn't just stall out at highway speeds though, it could do it anytime, in any weather, at any speed. And to make things worse, there would be some "false" symptoms. When the spark plugs quit getting juice, the engine would still get gas, and the result would be that I smelled gasoline, and would think that the car flooded out.

    So I guess the first thing I'd look at is the ignition system.
  • setzersetzer Member Posts: 127
    is the Intrepid going to be held until the 2005 MY because the Charger doesn't arrive until the 2006 MY.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    intrepids, concords and 300ms are no longer in production...when they are all sold...that's it. last year for those cars is '04.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    of the LH cars in September of last year. The same factory that built them was shut down and re-tooled to build the 300, Magnum, and the other LX cars that are scheduled to be released. They couldn't continue the Intrepid and other cars if they wanted to. It's unfortunate though that it's leaving a large gap in the Dodge lineup.

    I think the last Intrepid was a white SE with alloy wheels.
  • mikeyp53mikeyp53 Member Posts: 55
    I have a 2004 2.7L with 70K on it. Its a company car. Never had it back to the dealer for warranty. Runs perfect, 27mpg (almost as good as the VW diesel), just did the front brakes because I will buy at end of lease. If you change the oil, it will last! Postpone maintenance and reap the hell you'll pay! Yes, did trans oil every 30 K also.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Hey gang....those of you who track your maintenace. When--or at what intervals--have you changed your antifreeze and/or had your system flushed? Many thanks.. Thinking about doing it as I approach 85,000 miles on my 2000 ES.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    that's about when I had mine flushed...84,025 miles to be exact. Had the belts replaced then, too. The owner's manual says the belts should be done every 60K, so I was pushing that a bit...

    The mechanic basically said that if you leave that long-life stuff in too long, it'll start damaging the system much more quickly than the older green stuff would. The green stuff would basically just lose its ability to cool, and keep from freezing, but the newer pink/orange stuff will actually start damaging the cooling passages. Also, if you don't wait until the last minute, it won't be as damaging to the radiator hoses, so you might not have to replace those. When he did my coolant at 85K (which was last August, when I'd had the car for about 3 years and 9 months) he said the hoses were fine.

    He told me that I should have it flushed again around 150,000 miles, and replace the hoses then. I'll have it done much sooner than that though, because my driving has diminished enough that it'll be ages before I get to 150K now.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    I had mine done last week at 79,000 miles and 5 years, which is what the owner's manual says: 105,000 miles or 5 years, whichever comes first.

    Enjoy.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    I'll probably have my coolant replaced and the system flushed and inspected at the next oil change. I usually follow the maintenance recommendations in the manual but have come to rely on the input of other owners. For instance--although I've used synthetic oil since mile 1000--I also recently started extending the oil change interval to 5000-7500 miles. I've done this based on the high volume of highway miles and extended trips I'm taking AND the characteristics of synthetic oils. I have been AMAZED that my Intrepid has yet to use any oil between changes. I didn't believe it at first--but I've never put more than half a quart in between changes and that was only once.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    I have never had to add oil between changes (average at 4-5000 miles) in 5 years/80,000 miles to the 3.2. I have not even seen a significant drop from full on the dipstick.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    all the preproduction hype about these new engines being "clean"? Guess that's what happens when you make a good engine..
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    my emission test results from the last time I had to take the Trep though. It's amazing how clean it is! The carbon monoxide reading was so low that I don't think it's even possible to commit suicide with CO poisoning anymore! Although I guess if you ran it in an enclosed place, it would burn up all the oxygen and kill you, anyway.

    I have to go in for another test within the month. So I'll post the results when I do.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Question...has anyone recently traded their Intrepid or sold it? I'm curious if folks are "taking a hit" because the Intrepid has ended production... I'll probably keep mine--largely because it's paid off--but wonder what other experiences have been..
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    Consumer Reports or Edmunds, I dont remember which one, the Intrepid had one of the worst resale values of all cars. In fact, all chrysler cars fared poorly. I think the Dodge Neon came in dead last! The Intrepid was not too far from last.
    I dont think it much matters that it is no longer in production. It seems that most of the used Intrepids on the market are former rental cars, which does not help the resale value. I plan to drive mine until it dies, which hopefully will be quite some time from now. I think Emale recently traded his Trep for an Escape, maybe he can be of some help.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    uhh...no! i currenty have an '02 king ranch s-crew 4x4 and '03 "rental" 2 door v6 accord coupe. i haven't had an intrepid since i traded my '00 ES for an '01 supercrew...
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    ...in the time I've had it. The first was back in March of '02. I looked at one of the new Altimas, and actually liked it quite a bit. My '00 'Trep had about 56,000 miles on it at the time. The deal they offered me was invoice for the Altima, and $6500 for the Intrepid Unfortunately, at the time I still owed about $11,300 on the 'Trep, and my monthly payment would've come out to around $480! So, no thank you!

    The second time was this past September. When my Dad and I were looking for a car for him, we went back to the dealer I bought the Intrepid from, and he found a nice '03 Regal with about 19K miles on it for about $12,900 out the door, including an extended warranty that he wanted to get. Anyway, they had this '02 Intrepid R/T with about 35K miles, black, leather, sunroof, etc, for something like $15,995. By this time, my '00 had about 86,000 miles on it so it's really getting to the point that it's probably just a wholesale piece, even though it still cleans up nice. Anyway, they initially offered me $3500 for it, but quickly came up to $4822, which is what I owed on it at the time.

    I ended up deciding to hang onto my car, partly because I started missing it already, even though it hadn't been traded yet! But also, one of the headlights on this R/T was cocked at a funny angle, like someone tried to pull it out and couldn't get it back in again correctly. Or maybe it took a light hit to the front. It also didn't have floor mats. And I think it only had a single cd, but I can't remember for sure now. I have a 12-disk changer mounted in the trunk.

    I also just wasn't that wowed with the car when I drove it. I mean, sure, it took off faster than my little 2.7, but it just wasn't faster enough, in my mind, to justify trading my car, which was almost paid for, and jumping back into a car payment.

    Plus, there was an issue with the warranty on the car. Some '02's had the 3/36K bumper to bumper, but some '02's had a 7/70K or something like that, and they wouldn't tell me which warranty this car had. I didn't want to go through the hassle of getting another extended warranty, if the factory was about to run out. And I figure, if nothing else, I know how my Trep has been cared for. At 35K, this car might be close to needing brakes, if it didn't have them already. I replaced my front pads at 39K. They also didn't have service records, and I was going to make them service the tranny, if I decided to buy the car. But in the end, I figured I'd just hold onto what I got.

    Oddly enough though, a few days after I decided to hold onto my baby, that's when I had that little problem with my oil pressure light!
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Not to worry emale....I know you're much too "virile" to trade your Trep' for a mere Escape! Wow...I even managed to type that with a straight face...
       I think you all know that I genuinely like my 2000 ES and appreciate it's 86,000 miles and almost 5 years of loyal service. I suspect I'll just keep her when the time comes. Believe it or not--a new Grand Caravan SXT is the top point-getter right now. Though I'm considering pickups, SUVs and sedans (Magnum included). While it may not be the more passionate choice--it thus far is the most pragmatic. And surprisingly it drives well, rides well, carries my daughter and her friends, carries me and my similarly sized (read big ol' boys) friends, and all the stuff I seem to be routinely moving in the "post-divorce" era. I'll keep you informed.....
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    about, when the time comes, selling my Intrepid to my roommate and then using his Tracker as a trade-in, when it comes time for a new car. Right now, I'm lusting after a new 300C, or whatever the Dodge version of the sedan ends up being. I like the Magnum, but I'm just not ready for a wagon yet, no matter how cool this one is!

    My roommate likes my car, because it's faster, roomier, more comfortable, rides better, gets better fuel economy, and has a better stereo than his Tracker. But the only thing I'd worry about, is if I sold it to him and then it broke! While it's been a good car for me, it is pushing 92,000 miles, so it's not exactly a young 'un anymore!

    I'll probably hold onto it awhile longer though, because I'm just not ready to pay $35K for a new car yet! So I'll probably be waiting either for the 300C's to hit the used car market, or wait for some phat rebates!
  • rrmanrrman Member Posts: 21
    On my 98 New Yorker, it turned out to be the Crankshaft position sensor. Shifting to nuetral and
    restarting worked for several weeks...until I got stranded in a parking lot and had it towed. An inexpensive fix. Good luck!
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Yes, all "American" brand cars take a hit at 5 year value. Ford, Dodge, Chrysler and all the GM brands only hold 20-25% compared to about 35-45% for the Japanese (that is Honda and Toyota). Yet, I am still happy that I bought the 99 ES rather than the Accord v6 I looked at--more car and room.

    That's why I'm going with my original game plan on the Intrepid--drive it until the wheels fall off, then put the wheels back on. Plus it is still a great ride and so far dependable. At 5 years it is worth a lot more to me than to a dealer. No thought of trading.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    I share your thoughts on keeping my Intrepid and using it as a "winter vehicle" so to speak. I'll also likely keep it as my primary vehicle on insurance and list my new vehicle as secondary or "leisure". Since the Intrepid will be paid off and won't require collision, it should reduce the rates considerably for both vehicles.
        You've also raised an interesting, and often missed, point. Most of the "foamy mouthed" detractors who post against Chrysler often chant the mantra of "resale value" endlessly. Unfortunately, they seldom compare apples to apples and acknowledge that all domestics-and some imports-lose value to a greater extent.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    at what point would you guys consider dropping collision and comprehensive from your insurance policies? I've been thinking about doing that myself eventually, as my Intrepid will be paid off in November. In my case though (I'd have to double-check, because the rates went up a bit), dropping collision/comprehensive would drop my bill from about $600 a year to around $300.

    I've had liability-only insurance on old clunkers that I only paid a few hundred bucks for, or cars that were given to me by relatives, but in this case, if the car were totaled in an accident, the insurance company might pay out a pretty decent amount.

    Sure, Intrepids, as well as other cars, depreciate like crazy, if you're going to trade them in or try selling them yourself. But when your car gets totaled, the insurance company is required, whether they'll admit it or not, to "make you whole" again. That is, put you in the financial situation you were before the accident. So if your car is worth $3000 in trade and maybe a $5000 private party value, but has a KBB retail of $7000, then in this case, the $7K is what you should get.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    Sorry for the mistake. After some research, going back to message 2161, it was njdevilsrn who traded a '02 SE with 19K miles for a 'lowly' Escape. The dealer gave him $8,000. While you may not think much of an Escape, my father owns one and is happy with it. And,looking at the dealer ads in the local paper, the Escape holds its value much better than an Intrepid. Admittedly, part of the reason may be that it is an SUV.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    That is the way some insurance companies valued totalled out vehicles in the past. But with State Farm Insurance in NJ they approach the matter differently. When my parents 91 Celica GTS was 'totalled', the insurance company took an average of all Celica GTS's sold over the past few months. They made allowances for differences in equipment and mileage. The only way I negotiated more money out of them was to argue that the car was in above average condition, not average as they first stated. After a few phone calls to different customer service reps, I finally got the last one to agree to change the vehicle condition.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    What are you talking about? I only remember joking with Emale about buying a Ford Escape. My ex-wife has one and it seems like a reasonably good vehicle..
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    You are correct. The Ford Escape is a reasonably good SUV. While it may not have the 'macho' image like a lot of bigger trucks, it does serve its purpose in life.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    I took my uncle to the Toyota dealer to pick up his Corolla, which had to go in for some body work that had come undone. He was walking to his car and I was just about to drive off, when I spotted an Intrepid on their used car lot.

    I went up to look at it. It was a deep reddish-orange (Inferno red?) 2003 SXT. 16,000 miles. Kind of a beigish/brownish interior. No sunroof, but it had alloys and the spoiler, and a cd player. I don't know if it was a single cd, or an in-dash changer.

    Anyway, looked like a nice car. The price on it was $14995, with the obligatory KBB value of around $15995 posted as well, just to let you know how much you were "saving".

    Still, it didn't seem like a bad deal to me. If I needed a new car, and wasn't trying to hold out for an LX, I'd be tempted!
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    on Tuesday for another problem with the brakes. First the ABS controller was defective and now the left front brake rotor has some deep scratches on the inside braking surface. I noticed the problem while changing the oil at 11,800 miles for the fifth time. From the depth of the scoring marks its looks like this was a problem from day one. Actually, I did notice that the same front rotor had a score mark on the outside surface from almost the time the car was new. But it was not that bad and I thought I would have the rotor resurfaced when I changed the brakes. Actually, I am lucky because this type of problem is supposedly covered under waranty until 12K mikes. But I am beginning to appreciate the reasons why Chrysler products depreciate as much as they do. I am not looking for discussions here but my roommates 2000 Honda Civic never had a problem except for normal maintenance and has clocked 82K miles to date.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    I think the type of rotors that the Intrepid uses are actually cheap enough that you're better off just throwing them out and getting new ones, instead of having the old ones resurfaced.

    BTW, my old boss has a '92 or so Honda Civic, with a 5-speed. I think he actually got about 150,000 miles out of his first set of front brake pads! And the rear shoes are still original! He does mostly highway driving though, and would come into work and leave at times that he'd miss the stop-and-go of rush hour.

    I ended up getting about 39,000 miles out of my first set of front pads, and was actually impressed! Especially considering all the stop-and-go, pizza delivery driving I did back then.
  • jbbw20jbbw20 Member Posts: 38
    Comparing a Honda to a Chrysler would be akin to comparing apples to lemons!
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    I recently had my front brake linings replaced at about 81,000 miles. Unfortunately I ran them too long (and yes I heard the wear indicators) and damaged the rotors. The shop I used COULD have cut the existing rotors but they were too heavily damaged. A new set ran about $100.
  • teacherteacher Member Posts: 1
    Hi, first time posting here but I'm wondering...my '99 seems to have lost its "get up and go" and takes a while to get past 45mph, it also makes a ticking/fluttering sound right around the time I think it's changing gears (20, 45, 50, 60) I've never owned a manual, and this is automatic, so I'm guessing that is first, second, etc. gears. It has 80K on it, and otherwise seems to be running fine....except for an oil light that goes on sporadically, and I really think that it's a short in the wiring. (But have never had it diagnosed.) We took it to the shop and they could not duplicate it and rec'd an engine and trans. cleaning additive they put in at the oil change. Simple problem, or do we run to the dealer and trade it in before it blows? Thanks!
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    And the result of your service was? You should be mindful that putting the incorrect fluid in transmissions requiring ATF+4 is more common than we would like to think. Have you serviced your transmission at all in the 80,000 miles?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    Does your oil light only come on once fully warmed up, and at low idle speeds, like sitting at a traffic light? There actually is a TSB out for it. I had that problem, and it had something to do with the wiring for the sensor getting too hot and causing a false reading. They have to put in some kind of vent in that area that helps dissipate the heat better.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    the 'five star' local Dodge dealer replaced the rotors and brake pads without too much discussion. However, the mechanic hit a curb with the passenger side of my front bumper and, to put it as nice as possible, I am really pissed off. The car was in showroom condition because I really took care of it. Of course, they deny all responsiblity and refuse to pay even half for the repair. I got estimates of $428 to $500 if I take the bumper off and put it back on, which is OK with me. I am writing a letter to Daimler Chrysler but know it will not do any good. I am beginning to realize the other people complaining about the treatment they have received from Chrysler may be correct. It is really unfortunate and the treatment I received from this 'five star' dealer is appalling. I know there are more important things in life than cars but I really deserved some respect.

    And, by the way ,the trans cooler lines are once again leaking. I guess the dealer in NY state was right, the owner said they were defective in design and supposedly there is a TSB out on them.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    I am seriously thinking about selling the car and buying something decent, like a Ford Explorer. People who have owned them the tell me they never die. And there seems to be quite of few older ones on the road today.
  • emaleemale Member Posts: 1,380
    jason,

    you thinking what i'm thinking...?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    if it's any consolation, my 'Trep hit 92,000 miles yesterday. So, they're not all lemons! How long ago were those tranny cooler lines replaced? They might still be under warranty.

    Were the rotors covered under your warranty?
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    The rotors were covered under the warranty because the car had less than 12K miles on it. The last time the dealer tightened the clamps on the cooler lines where they attach to the radiator. They did not replace the lines so I expected to have the same problem again. The Trep is the only car I have owned that has hose clamps attaching the lines to the radiator. Supposedly, the lines were redesigned. A dealer in NY State showed them to me when I looked at an ES that had the same problem. He had just purchased the ES at an auction in Hatfield, PA where alot of the rental Treps are auctioned off.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    While 92K miles is good, I expect a well maintained car to last 150K miles without major engine or trans repairs. My Ford TBird has 149K miles and has the original engine and trans. The rear crankshaft seal has been leaking for awhile but the car is 15 years old. But there was no engine work, even the head gasket has lasted so far. And the trans still works good, I only changed the filter and fluid a few times.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,672
    did the repair shop give you any explanation, or theory, as to why your rotors went bad so quickly? 12,000 miles just seems really premature to me! I mean, I know that car rotors today are pretty much throwaway items, but still, 12K just seems way too soon!

    When you say that the transmission cooler lines have hose clamps, you mean they're just hooked up like a radiator hose? I've honestly never paid that close attention to mine, apart from looking at the car when it's parked on asphalt, to see if anything's leaking.

    And yeah, as for mileage, I agree completely that any decent car should be able to go 150K miles or more before it needs any major engine/tranny work. I know I'm only at 92,0000 miles, but give me time! I've only had the car 4 1/2 years, and now I only live 3 1/2 miles from work! I'm sure if I were still delivering pizzas, I'd be up near 150,000 miles by now. I hit the 30K mark on my car when it was around 11 months old. And by that time, I was starting to reduce my hours at that part time job. In fact, I quit (for the first time) about a month later.

    At my worst, I was driving enough that I put 13,000 miles on the '86 Monte Carlo that my Mom had given me, in the course of 3 months! That car had 179,000 miles on it when she gave it to me, and got t-boned in the parking lot at 192K. It was on its original engine and tranny, although it was leaking oil, and burning a bit too. It had things like the radiator, water pump, alternator, distributor, and those metal lines that inject air into the combustion chamber replaced. I really liked that car though, and when it got totaled, I strongly considered trying to put it back together.

    Of all the cars I've had, 3 of them had engines blow before 150,000 miles. The first was an '82 Cutlass Supreme, that was crap by about 73,000 miles. It lost all oil pressure one day, and we changed the gears in the pump, and got it running again, but it never ran right after that. Plenty of little metal shavings in the oil, too. It also started leaking from every place that COULD leak oil, and wasn't worth fixing, so I sold it for $400. Only paid $800 for it, though.

    The next was an '88 LeBaron turbo coupe. My uncle bought it when it was about 2 years old, and sold it to me when I got married. When we split up, I gave it to her. Around the 110-120K mile mark (I'm forgetting where, exactly now), EVERYTHING went bad on that car! The head gasket blew, so she found a guy to put on a new gasket and a used head, but it still wasn't running right. I took it to a shop that I trusted, and they checked it out. Got it running, more or less, for about $75.00. A lot of the wiring and vacuum hoses on top of the engine weren't put back together correctly. They told me though, that 2 cylinders were shot, and compression was bad on the other 2, and the turbo was shot, and don't put another dime into it!

    The last was my '89 Gran Fury police cruiser. Evidently, Chrysler 318's in 1989 had a run of bad camshafts, where the #8 would fail between 70-90,000 miles. I don't know about other V-8's, but on the 318, the #8 gets the hottest. Well, when it failed at 73,000 miles, the city of Richmond, VA sold the car, and a dealership in VA that specializes in police cruisers bought it, and dropped in a 318 out of a wrecked '88 Diplomat with 75,000 miles. I currently have about 118,000 miles on it, but it doesn't run anymore. The water pump went bad, and the emissions test came due (somehow I'd missed it for 4 years), so I just took it off the road. Then I discovered just how many things are swappable between it and my '79 NYer, so I've been pulling parts off here and there. I tried to start it a couple months ago...it would turn over but wouldn't catch. I'll get rid of it...eventually!
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    Thanks for the detailed history on the cars you have owned.
    We will start with my only new vehicle, the 2002 Intrepid. With less than 12K miles, the inside surface of the drivers side rotor had several deep score marks on it. Deep enuf so that the dealer could not use the argument that semi metallic brake pads inherently cause some marks. And you cant really replace only one side because the car may pull when the brakes are applied. I suspectthere was something wrong with the pads in the first place, and I agree with you,this s/h NEVER happened on a car with less than 12K legitimate miles. As I said before, there was no chance the mileage was turned back because the car was purchased brand new!
    Now the trans cooler lines. I saw many Treps with the exact same problem. The plastic/rubber lines are attached to the connection that comes out of the radiator with screw type hose clamps. The type anyone famaliar with if you have worked on cars. In my opinion, its pretty [non-permissible content removed] engineering when so many Treps leak from the same place. Not tolerated by todays quality standards for most manufacturers.
    There is a reason the Dodge Intrepid came in almost dead last, next to the Dodge Neon, as far as resale values are concerned. People must not want them because of all the trouble they are to own. I know you are a Mopar fan but Chryslers vehicles do not have a good reputation. This is my first Chrysler vehicle and may well be my last. You get what you pay for in todays world, there are almost NO exceptions. Its a beautiful looking car, but thats about where the good points end.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    for the past several weeks...
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    I see we're not so far apart.. Who's your local dealer that did the damage?
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    The dealer was Johnson Dodge in Budd Lake (Hackettstown,NJ). I would not be so upset, except for the fact that I really took care of this car and it did not have a scratch or ding or anything on it. In fact, I was thinking of storing it in my garage and just driving the Celica around. I dont know why I let the tech test drive it when I let nobody, even my girlfriend, drive the car. Nobody. I brought the bumper today to the body shop and hopefully you will not be able to tell it was refinished when I put it back on the car. But any panel or bumper that is repainted is never as good as the original paint. The shop wants 497.67 to fix it, which is alot of money for the job, but I went there cuz they guarantee the work.
    The 'five star' dealer would not even split the cost with me and denied all responsibility. I got really upset when I could see that I was not getting anywhere and told the GM where he could go!
    I knew something would eventually happen to the car but not so soon. It had less than 12K miles. My problem is that I like cars too much.
Sign In or Register to comment.