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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    Thanks for the info on the 3.4L engine. I will have to do a little research.
    It definitely had more torque than the 2.7L at a lower RPM which would explain the faster acceleration times. I am more interested in performance at the lower end of the spectrum since I dont drive over 65 mph. I guess I miss the larger displacement engines of my other cars. It took me awhile to get used to the 3.8L TBird engine after driving the 4.9L Pontiac Firebird. So I guess it will take awhile to get used to the 2.7L. But my next car in, maybe another 6-7 years, will have a larger displacement V-6.
  • masonmimasonmi Member Posts: 148
    Aren't the Concorde's a step above the Intrepid's? even though some Concorde's have the same features as some Intrepid models do?
    I've never driven a Concorde however they seem to be a bit more rounded than the Intrepid, I have to add that my Buick Century was simular to the Buick Regal in which the Regal was a step higher than the Century, Buick quality just isn't there any more, I had squeaks and squeals and brake issues.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    was probably a 2000 model, a base LX. It was trimmed a bit nicer than my '00 Intrepid, and had a few other niceties, such as a power driver's seat, split folding rear seat with armrest and cupholders, lights in the doors, instead of just reflectors, remote entry, etc. I don't know how much of that was standard, versus optional, but I vaguely remember this one having a sticker price of around $24-25K, vs the $20,950 (including freight) sticker price of mine.

    It was also a bit bigger inside, despite having the same wheelbase. The way they did it, I think, was to put the back seat a few inches further back than in the Intrepid. This actually seemed to cut into hip room just a bit, as the rear wheel wells now cut into the seat area a bit. And the seat was also tucked back futher between the C-pillars, so it gave you more of a hemmed-in feeling back there than with the Intrepid. The car was a bit longer overall though, with most, if not all, of that extra length going into the trunk. IIRC, the Concorde's trunk is a bit larger than the Intrepid's. The Concorde's rump, while longer than the Intrepid's, does seem to taper off more, so it's narrower. Might actually make it a bit easier to parallel park even thought it's a bit longer, since you don't have a wide rear-end to back in!
  • masonmimasonmi Member Posts: 148
    I actually have a power drivers seat, keyless entry and CD player on my 04 Intrepid SE, some SE's didn't have keyless entry or power drivers seats. The Concordes to me look to rounded and egg shaped. I should've taken one for a drive when I was shopping for my Intrepid just to see what they are like on the road in comparison.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    sounds like you got an SE with one of those option packages. Do you also have the alloy wheels? My Intrepid was a pure stripper model, no options whatsoever, although I did get them to throw in a 12 disk cd changer as part of the deal. And then, about 9 months later, after it got broken into, I bought an aftermarket Viper alarm/remote entry for it. I wish I had a power driver's seat. About a year ago, I test-drove a used '02 Intrepid R/T with power seats, and those extra adjustments that raised and lowered the seat made all the difference in the world!

    Yesterday I saw something that made me want to go back on my decision to try hanging onto my Intrepid for a few more years. At the Carlisle PA swap meet, a dealer had a '96 Buick Roadmaster, in a dark greenish color reminiscent of the "Magnesium" that Mopar now offers on the Magnum/300, nicely loaded up with leather and other goodies, with 89,000 miles, for $4995. I've always liked big, cushy cars, and while the Roadmaster isn't the most graceful looking beast in the world, the LT-1 350 engine and price were hard to resist! Plus, I figure that soon I'm going to need front pads and rotors, and rear pads, and maybe struts, so maybe it would be a good time to swap, before I start having to sink money into the 'Trep. But then the reality hit me, that I'd be going from a car whose history I know to one I don't, and while that 350 did sound nice, at that age anything could go wrong.

    So, I'll probably still be holding onto my Trep for a little while longer!
  • masonmimasonmi Member Posts: 148
    Yes my 04 Intrepid does have the Alloy wheels, Im pleased with the option package, the keyless entry is definately a plus, i've gotten so used to not even using a key to open a door or trunk, and the power seat is nice, so much better than the manual seats, and its nice to have a CD player instead of a cassette player. My Intrepid is Onyx Green which has that way of changing with the sunlight at times it will look blueish.
    I do agree the Buick Roadmasters rode very nice very big cushy cars, probably not the best on gas mileage these days.
  • jeromebjeromeb Member Posts: 31
    I am new to this discussion.

    I bought a 2004 Intrepid SE, Butane Blue, 2.7 l V-6, CD, AC, power seats, big honking trunk, in January.
    A few weeks after we got it, we noticed a rattle coming from the front dash area. DC warranty added a foam insert to damp the rattle. What's up with that? Anyway, it doesn't rattle now.

    In August we drove it to vacation in the Ozarks of Arkansas. Coming from the plains of North Texas to the Ozarks the first time is to invite death on every hairpin turn. How was I to know that "Slow 25 mph" in a "Speed Limit 55" zone really means "SLOW DOWN IF YOU DON'T WANT TO DIE KNUCKLEHEAD"? I was impressed with my reaction time, and with the car's handling all up in the mountains.

    It gets 29 mpg on the 70 mph highways, and 13 mpg on the mostly city driving my wife does.

    So much for the Intrepid.

    I recently test-drove a Magnum R/T. "Wow" indeed.

    We'll see how long the Intrepid lasts. It's a cheap big car for my wife to drive around. I'll be happy as a clam if it gets 120,000 miles without substantial repair and replacement work.
    This compares to her previous vehicle, a 1993 4-cyl. Voyager, which utterly failed to inspire confidence.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    but I just went to the Dodge website, to refresh my memory on the "Onyx Green" on the Intrepid, and they no longer have the Intrepid listed! I guess it had to happen eventually, as they only quit building the things over a year ago, and now it's the 2005 model year.

    Still, kind of a sad moment. Maybe we should all bow our head for a moment, and say a few words, for the Intrepid's passing?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    I really like that butane blue color. I had been wishing that they'd offer that color on the Intrepid ever since I started seeing a similar color on the Stratus/Sebring sedans/convertible and the minivans. I think it started showing up on those cars around 2001? When I first saw it as an Intrepid choice, it almost got me tempted enough to trade in for a new one!
  • ajwoodsajwoods Member Posts: 5
    I have a base model 2000 Dodge Intrepid with 93,000 miles on it. No major problems with it. The car has been very reliable and I am well pleased with it. I hope to drive it another 20 or 30 thousand miles.

    As an Arkansan I am glad you vacationed in the Ozarks and had a good time. I also have a 300 M with a 3.5 engine. I can tell a significant difference between the 3.5 in the 300 M and 2.7 in the Intrepid when I travel in the Ozarks.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    a weird looking color, which seems to change appearance depending on the lighting conditions. It almost looks like mine, steel blue, under certain lights. It was offered, I think, in the 2002-2003 model years. The butane blue is a nice color......but I guess I am bias because I really like the steel blue on the Trep. If I can figure out how to post a pic of mine on this site, I will since I finally got a digital camera.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    if you have trouble posting your pic, you can email it to me if you want, and I'll post it for you. I have a website that I can upload it to.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    steel blue metallic color on the Trep, which was discontinued in the 2003 model year.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    Did you buy a bra for the hood area of your Trep. I am thinking of buying one for the front part of the hood but dont know which one to buy. Even with only 14,000 miles on the car the hood is starting to show some chips.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    I never really went for the bra look. I prefer my cars to be liberated and just let 'em hang out for all the world to see! ;-)

    And I have the stone chips to prove it, although for having 97,000 miles, I don't think it looks too bad.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    There is an article on AOL's site about the 2006 Dodge Charger, scheduled to debut in Spring '05. According to the article, the Charger was introduced in 1966 with a 426 Cubic inch HEMI, one of the fastest street legal engines ever sold. Expect a 6.1 L HEMI engine in the new Charger to be available in the future. Gee, maybe the 6.1 L will fit under my Intrepid's hood???????????
  • daytraderdeandaytraderdean Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Intrepid ES interior lights flicker on and off while driving and they'll sometimes come on and stay on even after the car is locked with my remote as I walk away. Anybody else heard of this??? I don't want to pay dealer 100/hr to spend all day trying to find something! :)
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    I would be interested if anyone has changed spark plugs in their car. I have a 2.7 engine. Presume the coils have to be removed but am not sure what else is needed to be done.
    Thanks in advance.
    In response to #2555....check all the door switches.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    at 51,000 miles, but since the mechanic did it, I don't know what all was involved. I'm around 97,000 now. I'm kinda curious myself, as to how hard it is to change them. Looks to me like all you have to do is remove each individual coil pack, but then I've also heard that it's easy to damage the coils, so I dunno if it's something I should try myself.

    As for interior lights flickering, my '00 will occasionally do a flicker of both the interior and outside lights. It happens when the electric cooling fan kicks on. As for the lights staying on after you turn off the car and lock the doors, I dunno. Now before I had the Viper put in my Intrepid, it used to have a delay feature. If you turned off the car before you turned off the headlights, the lights would stay on for a few seconds, before finally going off. If you turned off the headlights before killing the ignition, everything just stayed off. Regardless of that though, the Viper turns everything off immediately when I arm it.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    Just wondering how many miles on your car and whether or not you have had any problems with the engine.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    approx 48000, car is a 2000.
    So far no problems at all with car except for coolant seep at bleeder on thermostat housing. Just barely noticeable and have not fixed it yet.
    Oil change every 3000 with Castrol Syntec.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    I had that same leak, and had mine fixed around 51,000 miles. Cost me around $210.00. As I recall, the part was around $126 and the labor to put it on was $84. That was a local mechanic changing it though, and not the dealer.
  • robertm2robertm2 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 96 trep with 95000 miles that is starting to nickel and dime me in a minor way. I don't much believe in buying new and would like to get a used 2004 Intrepid. Nearly all I see are SEs with the 2.7 engine. My 96 is a 3.5 and has been fine.
    I recall some time back that there were troubles with 2.7 engines although that may have been a 4 cylander engine in older models. I would welcome advice. The SE models with 3.5s seem to be scarce. robertm2!
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    Yea, the SE models with the 3.5L are indeed scarce, in fact, there aren't any! You have to upgrade to the ES or SXT model. The 2.7L engine has questionable reliability and the car really needs a larger engine like the 3.5 L.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    my Trep is going in for service this week, due to another leak in the trans cooler lines. This time there appears to be a small cut or hole in one of the rubber lines. If only it was as reliable as my girlfriend's Honda or my 13 year old GTS, but then again it would not be called a Dodge. They had a glowing article about the DC 300 in the local Sunday paper, I could only think that it was edited by DC's CEO (whoever that is). It kind of just made me laugh thinking about it.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    When I bought my car I test drove both the 2.7 and the larger 3.2 engines. In normal driving the difference was not that noticeable. My car with the smaller engine cruises easily at 75 to 80....also get about 29 mpg average on trips.
    I have yet to see a consistent problem with the engine...there are quite a few out there. I have some reason to think that part of the problem rests with owners. Smaller engines work harder...if performance is the major issue opt for a bigger engine.
    The engine rebuilders I have asked all carry 3.2 and 3.5 as well...but see fewer because there are fewer out there. Typically the aftermarket rebuilders make changes if there are obvious design defects. I have not seen anything to suggest they are doing so to the 2.7. They warranty their products too and do not like to eat replacement costs.
    Just a thought....but Intrepids are a bargain to buy. Used ones and leftovers{if available} should be quite cheap. Put some of the savings towards an extended service contract if you have doubts. You will still have a bargain.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    with the 2.7 in my '00 Intrepid. If I had it to do over again, I probably would have tried to get one with the 3.2 or 3.5, mainly for the extra power.

    The main area where I noticed a difference was at lower speeds. The bigger engines simply take off faster, and aren't as affected by heavier loads. But at higher speeds, I think the 2.7 mostly redeems itself.

    If I were buying a 2.7 though, I'd try to get one that's a leftover new 2004, or a used one that's still low mileage. Once you get up into higher mileage, there's more opportunity for the car to have been abused, and for that abuse to have done some permanent damage. And I don't think the 2.7 can take as much neglect/abuse as a 3.2 or 3.5.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    The neglect/abuse issue is an interesting topic.
    In my case, I dont drive my Trep much because I have the Celica and just the other day I noticed that the transmission didnt seem to be shifting properly but I didnt think much of it at the time. Till I pulled it out of the garage and noticed trans fluid on the driveway. Now who would think you have to so closely monitor fluid levels with a car with barely 14,000 miles on it. Most of the rental Treps I looked at had the same trans fluid leaks from the cooler lines, and to be perfectly honest with you, it made me think twice about getting any Intrepid at all. So its not just my car. And these rental Treps are not maintained as meticulously as I maintain cars. So, in my opinion, the rental Treps (which 99% of the ones on dealers lots are) are too much risk.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    that a lot of the low-mileage Treps on the lots might be former rentals. I didn't even think about that.

    I've been lucky that I haven't had any tranny fluid leaks...yet! Are those cooling lines expensive to replace?

    I did finally break down and replace my front rotors yesterday. I learned, the hard way, that the inside pads don't have wear indicators on them like the outer ones do. So, while my outer pads had plenty of meat left on 'em, the inner pad on the driver's side wore down to the rivets, and cut some nice, deep gouges into the rotor.

    It wasn't an expensive repair, though. The rotors were only $29.95 apiece, and the pads were something like $20. So, for around $80-90, I'm back on the road, and almost as good as new! Now I know it's going to need new rear brakes soon, too. I've heard that the pads in back are harder to change than the ones up front...anybody know if there's any truth to that?
  • robertm2robertm2 Member Posts: 4
    mike372
    Sorry.
    the engine in the 96 trep is a 3.3L. I wish I could find out how many 2004s were made with 3.5 engines. I have driven that car a lot in the mountains and felt that it had enough power.
    Thanks for your comment about the 2.7. Nearly every 04 Intredid I see advertised is a 2.7. I may end up trying for another 40k with this.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    was a good, sturdy engine, and is still in use in the minivans. My co-worker's mother traded a '94 Intrepid with the 3.3 in for a '99 with the 2.7, and she swore that the 2.7 was gutless in comparison! I think what was really going on was that the 3.3 got more torque, at a much lower rpm, and she just had to get used to having to stomp the gas pedal to get more power!

    The early 3.5's were known for having problems with the timing belt and water pump, among other issues, but I don't think the 3.3 really had any trouble spots.
  • robertm2robertm2 Member Posts: 4
    mike372
    I posted a note on the main board that my 96 trep has a 6 cylander 3.5L engine; In fact it is a 3.3L.but I forgot to mention the water pump went out 18 months ago so a new timing chain went in. I think I'll stay away from the 2.7 engine as you were suggesting.
  • robertm2robertm2 Member Posts: 4
    I had a leak on the 96 tran line; agood local mechanic said they had been using rubber replacemet tubing successfully. Didn't cost much - I forget and it's been OK.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    Where did you get the rotors......29.95 is pretty cheap. I know that in some cars, like my TBird, the rotors were inexpensive, around 30-35. But in the Celica, they wanted 60 minimum, and there is nothing special about them.
    The cooler lines are a pain in the butt, they are not metal as in all my other cars, they are rubber, very similar to fuel line tubing. And the connections to the radiator are not screw type either, theres just hose clamp. Pretty cheap design, in my opinion, at least. I probably looked at more used(rental) Treps than anyone else, partially because I had alot of time on my hands, and I couldnt believe how many had problems with the leaking cooler lines. And every one of them with the exception of one which was not at a Dodge or Chrysler dealer, were former rent a cars. It was easy to check if the dealer attempted to give you the line that it was 'executive driven', just call up Dodge 800 wwarranty number and ask about the prior registration. They would tell you the status but would not say which rental company it was. And if you were really interested, you could call the Chrysler Auction in Hatfield PA and they would give you exact prior registration info.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    are concerned with acceleration capability, not if the car will do 90 mph on Route 80. Almost any car will do that. And this is where the 2.7L has marginal power, like on an upgrade ramp on a major highway or from a red light on an upgrade. And in all my other cars, they seemed to go 60 mph effortlessly on the highway, where the Trep can do it but at a higher RPM and more noise. Its just seems like there is a lack of power. And I have talked to others who also complained about the power, or lack of it. I rented a Mustang with a V6 automatic in the same place as the Monte Carlo, and drove the exact same roads, and both cars were noticably more powerful and more pleasure to drive. In the Trep, if your going 60 mph on the highway, teh engine is crusing at 2100 rpm's, where the Mustangs V-6, not a GT, was cruising at about 1500 rpm. The Orange Mustang was sort of a neat car, and being a convertible Budget rent a car, fit in with the sunshine in Maui.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    at an AutoZone up the street. I think one reason they're so cheap is because there just isn't much to them. Once you get the wheel off and the caliper out of the way, there are just two little clamps holding the rotor in place, that are forced down on two of the five wheel studs. Pop those clamps off, and it just slides off.

    The part that contains the wheel bearings and actually houses the wheel studs is a separate assembly. Now back in the day, and I think on most trucks nowadays, it was all one piece, where the rotor also housed the wheel bearings and the wheel studs. I know when my uncle needed new front rotors for his '97 Silverado, they were something ridiculous like $125-150 apiece!
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    they are of the design you describe on my TBird, Celica and the Honda Civic. They are held onto the hub assembly with the wheel lug nuts. Same with my fathers Ford Escape.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    if anybody's interested...
    image
    Intrepid with rotor pulled off.

    image
    Intrepid with new rotor installed.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    is there any way of placing a caption in the pic, like towards the bottom of the pic.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    in a quick and dirty way. To actually put the text IN the picture though, I think I'd have to do it in Photoshop.
  • daytraderdeandaytraderdean Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the comments on the interior lights. I guess I need to elaborate. They don't flicker, they actually come on, sometimes for a second, sometimes for several seconds, sometimes they just stay on. I can unlock the car, open and shut the door and then re-lock the car and they'll shut off then. I'm guessing door switches like the previous post, but who knows?
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    I have rarely been happy with the budget brake parts available at Autozone etc... My experience with them is they are prone to defects. They are usually made in China/Taiwan and barely meet the requirements for runout,balance, thickness etc. The end result typically is poor performance at first and almost always early warping. That being said they are certainly cheap. I have been lucky too.
    I change my front brakes at about 50000 on a schedule-pads and rotors. Rear parts at 75000 too. Cheap insurance to keep my brakes 100%. Also calipers that do not run extended stay cooler and last longer. This is especially true with ABS and Traction control which make the calipers work more.
    I have always had good luck with Brembo or other premium brands. The extra cost spread out over 50000+ miles is nothing per mile. Ceramic pads are worthwhile as well.
    Just my 2 cents but when I push my pedal I KNOW what I will get.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    Bendix brake pads, as I firmly believe in buying brand name parts. However, I bought front pads from the Honda dealer (OEM) for the Civic. As far as rotors are concerned, I dont know. The original equipment for the Ford Escape supposedly were made by Bosch and they only lasted 38K miles on a vehicle that was not abused. Not because they were scored but the metal just didnt last long. Now I know why there was always an abnormal accumulation of dust on the alloy wheels. Lots of things are made overseas, but that does not necessarily mean that they are inferior quality, ie. the GE cordless phone I bought was made in China. You just have to be careful about what you select.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    list again, being among the top ten most stolen vehicles, according to the Institute for Highway Safety. It came in a number 5. Maybe that explains why the comprehensive part of my insurance policy is equal to the collision part, which I thought was unusual!
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    that the Intrepid, as well as the Sebring/Stratus sedans rank so high on the most-stolen lists! I wonder if this is more of an indication of the cars being easy to steal than it is their actual popularity?

    For instance, for years after they quit making them, GM's intermediate and full-sized RWD cars were hot among car thieves. In fact, in some of the poorer regions, if you look through their top stolen lists, you're still likely to find cars such as a 1985 Olds Delta 88 or a 1987 Chevy Monte Carlo on it! Those cars were incredibly easy to break into, and from what I've heard, also very easy to hotwire.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    that Chrysler vehicles are among the easiest to steal. I am thinking about getting a Viper system for my Trep. I think you (andre) mentioned that you got this system installed after your car was broken into. How much did it cost and did they do a professional job?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    it looks like I paid $350, installed, for that Viper system. But then a few months later I went back and had them hook up the remote trunk release for another $20.00. Don't ask me why I didn't just have them do it all at once, but for some reason it seemed like a good idea at the time!

    I've had a few problems with the Viper. First, on the day they put it in, I picked up the car, and drove about a mile or two, and parked in a residential area to go for a hike on a trail. I put the parking brake on. When I came back to the car, all hot, sweaty and tired, I went to release the brake, and the handle came off in my hand! I called Circuit City, and they sent someone out to fix it, on the spot.

    Now in the past couple months, I've had a few problems with it. I think there's a loose wire in it somewhere, because sometimes it'll arm, and sometimes it won't. It always locks/unlocks the doors and trunk okay, though.

    I really should take it in and have it looked at, but I guess now that the car's just about paid off (just one more payment...whoo-hoo!!), and now that I live in a more secluded, lower-crime area (and also the car isn't new anymore) I've just gotten a bit lazy.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    Afternoon gang... I said many posts ago that I'd be sure to note my odometer's change to 6 figures. My 2000 ES officially has 100,152 miles on her. The event passed inauspiciously with the exception of a second set of Goodyear replacement tires from Sam's Club. I gave the "long wearing" Goodyear Integras up for a set of 60,000 mile Goodyear GPS's. More performance oriented with a still reasonable treadlife.
        The only other expense was a bearing replacement up front when they replaced my brake pads and recut the rotors--with an oil change--for about $240. Next month, I'll have the coolant system flushed and changed, the transmission likewise and a four wheel alignment.
        I have an intermittent flicker--once a month or so--in my interior lights (they go from bright to dimmer, bright to dimmer then stop). It's curious but hardly significant. I've not heard of these "transmission line" leaks in Intrepids--nor have I experienced them. Only oddity I'm experiencing right now is a tendency for my heater/defroster to blow cold at idle when coming off load. Probably the thermostat or low coolant.
       Hope all is well with you.... Still amazed that my struts haven't needed replacing in 100+ K miles..
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,652
    but I think I hit 98000 miles this morning. Last time I checked the regular odometer (I usually have it defaulted to "trip") it was around 979XX coming back from Baltimore, so it might be there by now.

    I'm guessing I'll hit 100,000 miles sometime in December. If I remember, I'm going to try to have a digital camera with me to take a pic. I did take a pic of it when it hit 60,000 (don't ask me why, but it seemed like a good milestone at the time!) but I think that pic got erased.
  • mike372mike372 Member Posts: 354
    replaced both trans cooler lines yesterday, one was dripping considerably. By the way, its not the same dealer I used to go to for warranty work. I explained to them that I did not have another $500 to refinish my front bumper and they were very careful with the car. It was hard to find ATF+4 trans fluid, so I bought a quart at a DC dealer before I took the car in to fix the lines. The parts store tried to sell me a synthetic fluid that was supposedly good for all DC vehicles, and supposedly superceded all other fluids. But being suspicious of this, I bought it at a DC dealer just to be on the safe side.
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