Dodge Intrepid

Jason5 · February 2005

Feel like I'm at the Republican National Convention ("fear and loathing, fear and loathing, opinions masquerading as facts, etc.."). 3.2 liter Intrepids--like my 2000 ES--have a timing belt (not a chain) that is inspected as part of scheduled maintenance. I was alerted that my belt was showing signs of "glazing" but was otherwise "OK". I decided to have it replaced at about 70,000 miles, if memory serves.
My Intrepid is about to turn 110,000 miles, so I"m mindful of having them inspect components at each regular oil change. As I've shared in the past--I continue to use synthetic oil and a high quality filter and I've spaced my oil changes to 5000 miles. I've yet to put a quart in between oil changes which surprises me.
My water pump has never been changed--nor indicated it's needs to be--so I don't think I'd jump to have them all done at once unless it's indicated. As always, making certain that you have regular oil changes and follow some reasonable series of inspections for critical components is the most likely way to avoid problems. Within my extended family the two 2.7 liter engines (in a Stratus and a base level Intrepid) soldier on with no problems.

andre1969 · February 2005

how many miles do your family's 2.7's have on them at this point? Mine's still around the 101,500 mile mark. With my 3.5 mile commmute to work, I'm just not racking them up like I used to!

mike372 · February 2005

most manufacturers recommend changing the timing belt at the 100,000 mile mark. You also have to keep in mind how many years old the car is. I mean, rubber breaks down with age, you dont have to have a Ph.D in organic chemistry to understand that. In the case of the 91 Celica GTS, the car had about 116,000 miles but was 13 years old, way past the life span (in years) of most cars on the road. So its no wonder that the belt was about to self destruct. However, I think its a good idea to follow the manufacturers recommendations. The manufacturer was the one who designed and built the car in the first place. In the case of my friends Sebring, its fact that the chain/belt malfunctioned (breakage or otherwise). No opinion here.

Jason5 · February 2005

The 2.7 in my aunt's Stratus is just about to turn 80K. The base Intrepid 2.7, about two years older, is just over 100K. The Intrepid is a 98, the Stratus is a 2000 (if memory serves). We're a large family and have quite a few Chrysler Corp. vehicles in our midst. Some of this is attributable to family history and some to my brother's stint as a Dodge sales manager for 12 years. He's on another career path since 2000. Thought I'd review the unscheduled work I've had done to my Intrepid as a kind of "FYI"...
*One Infinity Speaker replaced (persistent
buzz)--2004
*The pinched gas filler issue from TSB--2003
I think
*Noise in right front suspension--2004
*All belts--2003
*Door seals (shrinkage) 2004
*Transmission fluid and filter (twice)
*Replace OEM Goodyear GA's with Goodyear
Integras from Sam's Club at 29K.. Replaced
Intergras with Goodyear GPS tires from
Sam's at roughly 101K
*Two sets of front pads--one set of rear--
lifetime replacement warranty on them.

Hmm...this has been a useful walk down memory lane. I noticed a question about plugs and wires--I THINK (but am not certain) that my plugs have been replaced. But never the wires. As of today my 2000 ES is 5 years, 4 months old and has 109,650 miles. Trip to Philly and around may bounce me to 110K... I have a four wheel alignment done once or twice yearly. Be well campers!

fredzz · February 2005

Manual sched B maintenance recommends 48,000 mile transmission service - fluid, filter and differential fluid change. Fluid looks clear and smells clean at 46,000.

$240 to have this all done at Jiffy Lube. Is this over-priced?

andre1969 · February 2005

at a local transmission shop about a year ago. I think he charged me $78.00. And he actually APOLOGIZED for the price, telling me that the price of the ATF+4 was what made it so expensive! I had 3 vehicles done, one right after the other, so I could just pick one up and then drop the other off, and not have to worry about catching rides with friends each time I took a car up there. IIRC, my '79 NYer was around $65.00, and my '85 Silverado ran around $120-130, because it needed a shift modulator or something like that. It was sucking transmission fluid into the vacuum lines, which was then getting into the carburetor.

I've been a bit more anal about my tranny services though, getting them done every 30,000 miles. My 30 and 60K services were around $100 each, as they were done by a different shop. Well, those guys retired in 2002, and I wasn't too crazy about the new guys running the place, so I took it to a local tranny shop, instead of a general mechanic.

Anyway, I'm over 101,000 miles now, and no complaints with the tranny...yet!

fredzz · February 2005

Great. What did the service include? Was it just changing the fluid? Did the service include fluid, filter, and differential fluid?

Jason5 · February 2005

Perhaps you recall the fiasco I had with my first transmission fluid change...after two separate lectures to two service managers about +4, they went ahead and filled it with +3. Luckily I noticed it on the receipt and they brought it in, drained, flushed and refilled it. The last refill they used Mercon and an additive which brings it to +4 (or greater) levels. I was flabergasted (especially in light of the previous go round) but even the service manager at Dodge said this is OK. (Even after I put him on the phone with the shop during the first go round and he said to remove the +3 and put in +4). Go figure... In any event, it shifts as well or better and has no "freewheeling" on start up as it occasionally did in the past. Odd...

mike372 · February 2005

Was the Mercon plus an 'additive' a synthetic blend of trans fluid. I remember when I had the leaks in my transmission lines I went to the local parts store looking for ATF +4 and they tried to sell me a synthetic blend. I didnt buy their story and bought the fluid at a Chrysler dealer. With the Honda Civic, the manual says to only use Honda trans fluid so that is what I buy (its like twice the cost of fluid from the parts store).

andre1969 · February 2005

I know they changed the fluid, filter, and gasket. I'd have to dig up the receipt though, to I dunno what the exact price breakout was. I think there was a charge for the fluid, a charge for the labor, and a charge for a "kit", which I'm guessing includes the filter and gasket. And now that you mention it, I dunno about the differential fluid, either.

Jason5 · February 2005

I don't recall any special designations on the receipt. It was listed as Mercon, plus a separate additive--which may or may not have been a synthetic of some sort. Since--as I understand it--the most significant difference among fluids are their specific lubricants and "friction modifiers"--it probably was a combination of those designed to mimic +4 fluid. Weird part is...it shifts better than before. Perhaps this combination is more suited to an "aging" tranny such as mine.

marsha7 · February 2005

I noticed in your post, which seemed to be about timing chain/belt life, you mentioned you had a Civic...I realize that this is old info from my Prelude and Legend, but both of them had timing belts, and both manuals stated that the belts should be changed (along with the water pump, as it is right there) and 60K miles, if memory serves me correctly...multiple Honda dealers all told me the same thing, you could go 75K miles on the belts safely, but do not think of going to 80K, as the belts would break and pistons would hit the valves at high rpm...maybe Honda has improved their belts since 1988 however...

fredzz · February 2005

Looks like Jiffy Lube is over-priced. I can get the same service done at a very reputable shop for $120. JL wants $240. They already know about the ATF+4 too. This service includes transaxle fluid, and filter.

smithed · February 2005

I pulled the receipt from my last trans service fluid and filter change) at the Dodge dealer. It was $128, so JL is not the place to go for this.

andre1969 · February 2005

who used to work at Jiffy Lube. I knew him when we worked together delivering pizzas. I remember some advice he gave me when I talked about getting my transmission serviced. He told me that I could save a bunch of money doing it myself.

He said to just loosen the pan and let all the fluid drain out, then re-tighten it and add new fluid in. Just like they taught him at Jiffy Lube! :-/

So I take that to mean that at Jiffy Lube, or at least this particular one, your chances of getting a new gasket and filter with the deal were pretty slim?

mike372 · February 2005

Well.....I just looked in the Honda Civic manual for a 2000 Civic (the one that came with the car) and it recommended changing the belt at 105,000 miles and inspecting the water pump also. The mileage was the same for both normal and 'severe' driving conditions. It also stated that it should be changed at 105K miles or 84 months, whichever came first. The car just turned 100K miles so I am trying to decide where to have the work done. If I feel overly ambitious in a few months, I may do it myself. However, after 23 years, my Sears air compressor finally bit the dust so I am in the market for a new one. Wow, its hard to believe that I bought it in 1981. Too bad everything else I buy doesn't last that long.
I think you mentioned you returned your Trep to the leasing company in one of your previous posts. Just wondering how many miles were on the car.

andre1969 · February 2005

I looked in a Gates timing belt manual, and it looks like Hondas jumped from 60,000 mile to 90-105,000 mile intervals sometime in the early 90's. They're still inteference engines though, so don't let those belts go too long!

marsha7 · February 2005

Obviously, they have changed their timing belts over the years, so they now last longer...if the Honda engine design is still similar to the past, when you remove the timing cover to change the belt, you are staring right at the water pump...if so, it is prudent to change the pump, not just "check it"...after all, the labor is "free" because you are already paying for the timing belt labor...besides, who would change a belt at 105K but not change the pump at that many miles, the pump used to cost about $29...even if it cost $100, I would still change it, since the only other time you would ever be anywhere near an internal engine component like that is when it breaks, and then you would pay for the labor all over again...

My Intrepid had 72K miles on a 5 year, 75K mile lease...aside from minor repairs, it was in excellent shape for 72K miles...silver with grey leather interior...had every option available in 2000 except ABS brakes...while the blind spots were annoying, it performed well, and on the road would get 28-30.9 mpg...the Ram 1500 Hemi that replaced it gets 14 city, about 19 highway...oh, how I long for the days when $10-12 would fill the tank from the halfway mark...:):):):):)

Bob

fredzz · February 2005

Too messy for me. I'll hire the job out to CME Automotive for $120.

andre1969 · March 2005

that for $120 you'll get it done right! The way this friend of mine explained it, all they did was drain out the fluid, but then slapped it all back together using the old filter and gasket...

mike372 · March 2005

The days when gas was cheap are long gone. I remember in 1971 when my father bought the 5.7 liter(350 cubic inch) Chevelle, gas was 35 cents a gallon. Well, you dont have to be a mathematical wiz to figure out that a FULL tank of gas (starting from zero) was about $7.00 (that's seven dollars). So it didn't matter that the car got 10 mpg. And for less than $4K, you had an impressive car that would leave any Intrepid in a cloud of dust! (well, OK, not exactly a fair comparison since I dont think you could sqeeze a 5.7L engine under the hood).
Interesting....my Trep has the one option that your car didnt have.....ABS....I would not buy a new car without it!

marsha7 · March 2005

I would now expect my car to have ABS, but back in 2000, I just was not convinced that it was as necessary as I feel it is today...and, since the Trep had EVERY other option on it, I felt it was loaded...I felt at the time that 4 wheels discs were more important than ABS with disc/drum brakes...even today, if I had to choose, I would choose 4 wheel disc w/o ABS than disc/drum with ABS, altho the proper choice for me is 4 wheel disc with ABS...after driving cars with 4 wheel disc and disc/drum, I FEEL safer and it seems to stop better to me with 4 wheel disc...also, ABS only comes into play when I skid, 4 wheel disc affects my stopping EVERY time I press the brake pedal...I would not purchase our new Ram 1500, standard with 4 Wheel disc and 2 wheel ABS (don't ask why, I don't know) until I found one with the optional 4 wheel ABS...why offer it only on 2 wheels??? but they found me one with 4W ABS...my Crown Vic also has 4W disc with all ABS...

andre1969 · March 2005

back in late 1999 when I bought my Intrepid, ABS was the furthest thing from my mind. I'd never had a car with it, so I just didn't see the need.

As for brakes, I think the quality of the system itself is more important than whether the rear brakes are drum or disc. For instance, my '89 Gran Fury, a disc/drum setup, was vastly superior to my Intrepid's disc/disc setup. Shorter stopping distance, almost impossible to lock up, good control, etc. That may not be a totally fair comparison though, as the Gran Fury was an ex police car, and had oversized brakes. It only weighed about 3500 lb, within around 100 lb of my Intrepid, but the Gran Fury's brakes were just much beefier. I don't know what size discs were up front, but it had 11" drums in the rear. Some 4000 lb+ cars in the 70's didn't even have brakes that big!

I wonder though, if another part of the Gran Fury's advantage might have been the tires? It had 235/70/R15's, compared to 225/60/R16's for the Intrepid. I've heard that lower-profile tires with bigger wheels can sometimes get iffy in bad weather.

When you have ABS, does that make it any more difficult/expensive to change the brake pads?

mike372 · March 2005

any new car w/out four wheel disc ABS. The combination is hard to beat. I have driven other cars with drum brakes in the rear, ie. 2003 Camry, 2004 Malibu (National car rental), 2003 Accord and there is no comparison. Plus, drum brakes heat up faster due to their design. The 1991 Celica GTS has by far the best brakes of ANY car I have ever driven( with one exception a 1984 Corvette). The combination of four wheel disc ABS, fat tires and relatively light weight adds up to outstanding braking power. Next time you're in a parking lot, look at the size of the rotors (front and rear) of some performance/luxury cars, ie. BMW, Lexus or Mercedes and I think you will be impressed. The Trep's rotors are alot smaller.
Chnaging the pads on a car with ABS is no different that disc brake pads on a car w/out ABS. At least that's the way it is on the Celica and I believe the Trep is no different. However, maintenance costs can be higher and you have to make sure you completely change the brake fluid every few years or you could screw up the ABS pump.
That said, my Trep came with a defective ABS controller which was replaced at 500 miles.

jsylvester · March 2005

Anybody ever done their own brake job on an ABS equipped Intrepid? I've done a number of brake jobs, but never on a car with ABS.

The only other knock I have against ABS is the cost of repair once the car gets up in age. If the ABS goes out on my 94 GM, I can only guess of what that would cost.

andre1969 · March 2005

that ABS is kind of like airbags, in that as the car ages it becomes more of a liability than an asset. Sure, there's always the chance that you'll get into a situation where ABS will save your bacon, or a crash that you would've died in were it not for an airbag.

However, the grim reality is probably that the abs will fail and cost more to fix than the ol' clunker is worth. Or you get into some minor 11 mph collision that happens to set off the airbags needlessly, and the added $500 or so per airbag ends up pushing your repair bill over the threshold and into totaled car territory.

andre1969 · March 2005

I think my Intrepid is finally getting that leak in the transmission hoses that run to the radiator, that a few others have mentioned. I went out for lunch today, and when I came back to my car in the parking lot, I noticed a small wet spot under it, towards the front. It looked like just water though, and not antifreeze or tranny fluid, but it was still enough to make me pop the hood and take a look. Sure enough, on the driver's side of the radiatior, there are signs of leakage. That nasty, gummed up look where it gets wet and then gets all grimy and such. I honestly couldn't tell if it was the tranny hoses or the radiator hose, because it was all kind of splashed around.

Guess I'm going to be taking it to the shop soon to have it looked at, though. If I really wanted to, I guess I could probably change the hoses myself. But I just don't have that kind of patience anymore, and it looks like such a tight squeeze. The bruised knuckles and flared temper just isn't worth the "satisfaction" of doing it myself!

And, at 102,000 miles, I'm sure something finally had to let go!

hayneldan · March 2005

Before you invest in taking it in check the hose clamps on thr rubber hoses that go from the tranny to the radiator. I had the same leaking on my 99 and it was a simple tightening of the hoses that fixed it. I have large hands, but was able to tighten the clamps with some difficulty. If the hoses look bad change them out.

marsha7 · March 2005

at 102K miles for your Intrepid, I would say it is still under the basic new car factory showroom warranty...ok, maybe a few miles over the limit, but hey, what a car!!!...:):):):):)

momx3 · March 2005

I used to have a 97 3.5L Std Intrepid... engine gave me so many problems I had to ditch the car finally. Somehow I think it had more to do with keeping up the maintenance then anything else after reading these posts. Any thoughts from past or present 97 owners on whether I should buy another 97? (That's my fav model year)

andre1969 · March 2005

it pours! First my tranny fluid leak, but then this morning, in the rain, I noticed that WATER was actually dripping in on the passenger side! It was coming in right above where that little plastic piece adjacent to the mirror is (or the little high-mounted speaker on models with nicer sound systems)

It wasn't coming in fast or hard, but I guess that's something else I'll have to deal with. I might be able to simply adjust the rubber seal that goes around the door opening. Still, I thought it was pretty annoying. I thought they stopped making cars that take on water DECADES ago!

Hayneldan, thanks for the tip on the hose clamps. I'll try to give them a check before taking it into the shop.

Momx3, I dunno if I'd buy a '97 Intrepid today. From what I've heard, most of the kinks actually were worked out of them by '96-97. My understanding was that it was mainly the '93-95 models that were the most troublesome. But still, you'd be getting a car that's soon going to be 9 model years old, and no matter how reliable it was when new, could be really iffy now.

But if you can find a low-mileage one at a cheap enough price, you might be okay.

mike372 · March 2005

First, ABS. If the ABS part of the braking ever fails, you do not have to fix it, the brakes will operate as if the car didnt have ABS. This is explained in the manual. When the Celica was in the last accident, I wiring for the right wheel ABS sensor was cut and I never fixed it. So for the past year and a half I have been driving the car w/out ABS. I suppose I will try to fix the wiring in the near future.
As for the leaking trans lines in the Trep, the first time the dealer either tightened or replaced the hose clamps at the radiator. They also said that they had to take out the headlight assembly in order to accomplish this. So much for DC engineering! The second time the line sprung a leak in the rubber portion, so they replaced both lines.
As far as the water leakage, keep in mind that you are driving a DC product.
I am just waiting for the lines to leak again?! My problem is that the car will hit three years way before the mileage becomes 36,000. So I am just hoping nothing goes wrong. Maybe wishful thinking.

corvettemike · March 2005

a 3.3 liter with a knocking sound when the engine is reved up....is the 3.3 liter any good???....do they have a rod knock, wrist pin, or valve train problem??? Also, what is the weak point of this motor??....

andre1969 · March 2005

yeah, I was actually thinking about that, with the water leak. It wouldn't be a Chrysler if it didn't leak! Every other Mopar I've ever owned developed a water leak somewhere, at some point in time. Of course, you expect it in a car that's 20, 30, or 40 years old. It shouldn't happen on one that's only 5!

andre1969 · March 2005

I was always under the impression that the 3.3 didn't have any particular weak points. I've always heard it was a good, sturdy, durable motor. IIRC the 3.5 OHC engine was derived from it, as was the 3.2. And the current minivan 3.8 pushrod is also another version of it.

Probably the biggest problem with the 3.3 is that, by today's standards it's just not that sophisticated or powerful compared to newer offerings. How many miles do you have on it?

mike372 · March 2005

I know what you mean by 'patience' and 'flared tempers'. I have the same problem, I just cant handle the stress like I could have years ago. But I still managed to replace the timing belt in the Celica. Something always goes wrong and you have to figure out the solution. I rebuilt a couple of engines in my lifetime but probably would not want to do the same today. I may even paint the Firebird this summer, if I can come up with the money for the paint! Unfortunately, its red, and red is probably the most expensive color out there. It would be kind of neat to get the car back on the road, as there just arent that many around anymore.

andre1969 · March 2005

I would probably be more willing to take on this job myself if it wasn't for the tight squeeze in that part of the Intrepid's engine compartment. I've never done anything TOO major on a car before, but on older vehicles like my '79 Newport and '85 Silverado, changing the belts and hoses was no big deal. Well, actually the Silverado was, because it was kind of a jigsaw puzzle, with 4 belts and trying to figure out what to loosen to get to what.

I really like the setup of my '79 NYer though. Just 3 belts, and two of them are duplicates! The duplicates run around the alternator and air conditioner, while the single handles the power steering pump.

smithed · March 2005

Today is the 6 year anniversary of the day the ES was delivered to me. In praise of the 3.2, 96,000 miles without ever adding a drop of oil between changes.

corvettemike · March 2005

80,000....thanks for your input....

Jason5 · March 2005

Nice to see so much activity since my last post. Just to clarify. The 1997 3.3 liter is the basis for the 3.8 found in the current minivans--and the predecessor of the 3.3 liter found in the current minivans. Most folks I've talked with agree it's pretty bullet proof. It has no relationship, however, to the 3.2 and 3.5 liter overhead cam designs. The 3.3 and 3.8 are OHV engines.
Finally after just shy of 4 years my replacement battery gave up the ghost. Had it replaced and had another oil change yesterday--unfotunately it was smack in the middle of the little "snow and ice event" we were having here in Pennsylvania.

andre1969 · March 2005

the way I heard it, the 3.5 that came out in 1993 (or was it delayed till '94?) was based on the 3.3. Same basic block, just bored out or stroked, but it was converted to OHC. Usually, OHC engines are designed from the ground-up, and not just converted from existing pushrod blocks, but it has been done before. One example of this was the Chevy Twin Cam 3.4 that was offered for awhile in the 90's. It was the old 2.8/3.1/3.4 block, just converted to an OHC design. It wasn't too reliable though, and was ultimately dumped.

When the LH cars were re-done for '98, at first the biggest available engine was a 3.2, which was derived from the 3.5, and converted to an aluminum block. Then when the 3.5 was re-released for '99, it also had an aluminum block.

So, the current 3.5, 3.3, and 3.8 engines can all be traced back to a common ancestry, even though the 3.3/3.8 don't have much in common with the 3.5 as it is today.

Oh yeah, I'm still on my original battery, which I've had now for nearly 5 1/2 years. Common sense it telling me it's time to change it, but it's still starting up just fine and not showing any signs yet of weakening. Of course, that means it'll probably fail completely some cold night when I really need it!

mike372 · March 2005

You haven't seen tight squeezes until you try to work on the 2.2L DOHC engine found in the Celica GTS. I mean, you have to remove the right engine mount just to change the timing belt (and if that wasn't a pain in the *** I dont know what is). The engine is mounted transversely in the engine compartment. At least in the 2.7L Trep, the engine is mounted front to back, I believe. I can imagine what its like to work on the 3.5L Trep engine stuffed in such a small compartment. At least in some of my other cars, ie. TBird and Firebird, there was more room. The 79 Firebird probably has one of the longest front ends of any car out there. Actually, I think the '69 Grand Prix holds that record!

mike372 · March 2005

How does one go about changing the battery in the Intrepid?

smithed · March 2005

Some of those late 1960s and early 1970s with the long hoods had enough space between the radiator and the front of the block to put in another engine. The GP had that kind of space. My 1972 Monte Carlo had a bunch of space up front of the 350. The 3.2 in the 'Trep is squeezed into a tight space. I won't be changing that timing belt myself. The original battery is also enjoying its 6th anniversary today. Still starts it up fine.

hayneldan · March 2005

To change the battery, you have three choices. 1. remove the air cleaner and all plastic hardware. The battery should be accessable from the inside. 2. Jack up rt frt wheel, remove passenger side front wheel and plastic wheel inner liner. The battery should be accessable. 3. Go to Sears and have them do it.

jsylvester · March 2005

This will probably be the year the battery goes in the 2000 Intrepid R/T . My brother's Neon is about 6 months older, and his battery just went.

I'm going to run the car until it won't start - hopefully I'll be at home, since I have a back up car in the Grand Marquis.

I hesistate to let others replace it, as a lot of these guys at the cheapo repair shops are not highly experienced, and I can imagine their confusion when they try to figure out how to replace it.

andre1969 · March 2005

I hadn't even thought about the potential problems of letting other people replace the battery! My dealership couldn't even do an oil change right one time, getting more on the engine than in it! And it took them three tries to finally figure out the TSB on my flickering oil pressure light.

I had gotten spoiled for awhile, because I used to go to a place that was run by two older guys who used to work for a dealership that sold DeSotos...so that tells you how long they were in the business! They were pros and knew how to do things right. Unfortunately, they retired a couple years ago, and the people that took over just weren't the same. Instead of trying to do the job right they'd try to over-sell you on needless junk that you really didn't need to pad the price as much as possible.

I did find another shop at a local Amoco station. They seemed honest and like they knew what they were doing. But then they closed that Amoco down, and the mechanics went to a new shop about 6 miles or so further away. The ironic thing is that they moved out to where I used to live. And when I lived out that way, I'd always bring my cars out to where I live now (that shop I dealt with for years, with the older guys, was about 2 miles from where I now live). Now it looks like I might have to go all the way out to where I used to live to get my cars serviced!

I did find another garage that's only a few miles away, that I tried out. They have a good reputation, but I just got a bad vibe from them when my '85 Silverado kept cutting out on me. They had the truck for a couple weeks at first, but then about 2 months later it left me stranded again. This time they had it nearly a month! The problem was the distributor, and for some reason every time they'd put a new one on it would die immediately.

When it comes to my 'Trep's battery though, I hate to say it but in addition to worrying about someone else messing up in changing it, I guess I also just don't want to admit that I can't even change a battery! :-)

mike372 · March 2005

The LAST place I would take my car is Sears. I mean, have you ever seen some of the clowns they hire. Plus, I dont know if any of you remember or even care to remember, but a number of years ago Sears admitted to fraud and misrepresentation. Remember when the CEO appeared on NATIONAL TV and apoligized for ripping people off. I believe it was the altenator/generator scam. Plus there was a second time since then but I dont remember it that clearly. Sure there are dishonest mechanics out there but I just get very turned off by this sort of stuff. Personally, I have had great success with the DIY method.

andre1969 · March 2005

wanna come down and change my battery and transmission lines for me? ;-)

mike372 · March 2005

Well.........if you lived in Northern NJ I would be glad to help you out, that is, both of us do the work?!

Dodge Intrepid

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