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Comments
Back when I had the problem, the low pressure light would only come on at 500 rpm.
When I had this problem it really scared me because I have another car, a 1967 Pontiac Catalina, that used to have the same issue. But this car has an aftermarket oil pressure gauge installed, so when I saw the oil light flicker, the gauge itself verified it! And it would only do it when it was fully warmed up and the oil thinned out, and at low-rpm situations such as idling at a traffic light. In this case it was a simple fix; just put in a heavier oil and bump up the idle a bit. I think Pontiacs back then were known for idling slowly, but I think this one had been played with over the years, and was actually idling TOO slow. I guess it's a miracle it didn't stall out!
And nowadays, I guess it's NOT a good idea to just put in a heavier-weight oil!
It wasn't until they did the TSB for the wiring and the vent that the flicker finally went away.
As for mileage, I'm up to around 118,000 miles not, and haven't been all that religious about changing the oil. Originally I tried to stick with 3,000 mile intervals, but I got a bit lazy. I rarely let it go more than 4,000 miles, though.
I've thought about getting a new car from time to time, but I really couldn't find anything I really liked, either. At least, not for the price. I kinda like the Altima and Charger. I also like the Buick Lucerne, even though I don't have enough gray hair yet. :P
It's probably kinda silly to go out and get the same basic car, but I've thought about trying to find a low-mileage '03-04 Intrepid with the 3.5 and a sunroof. I'll probably just keep my '00 though, until something really major/expensive breaks on it.
I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with about 110k miles on it. I brought it into my local dealership over 2 months ago because of overheating. After a week in the shop, a service rep told me that during the process of trying to fix my car, they destroyed the engine and they are going to fix the car for free.
Now check this out. The last time I had an engine replaced (in a different car) it only took 2 weeks to get my car back -- and the car was fixed in "Grandpa's Automechanic Shop". This car, my 2K Intrepid is at a Chrysler/Dodge dealer. I brought it in 2 months ago anf they're still giving me excuses why the car is not ready.
Folks, I suspect fraud or something else has happened to the car and they are not telling me the truth. What would you recommend?
A few years back, my uncle needed the transmission in his '97 Silverado rebuilt, by the dealer, under an extended warranty he bought. I'd say it took them at least a month. His tranny went out again a few months ago, out of warranty. We had a local shop rebuild it, and I think they had it out in two days!
I would talk to a manager...might be best to use your car as a credit on a different car. Better a new car than something they threw back together to get you out the door. I cannot believe they are admitting they ruined a
motor on an older car with 110000. Have that in writing??
Good luck.
"We're waiting for parts.", "We're waiting for parts.", "We're waiting for parts."
Now it's "the check engine light came on and discovered that "x" sensor went bad." "The check engine light came on and discovered that "y" sensor went bad." "We'll have it to you by Monday.", "We'll have it to you by "Wednesday.", "We had to order another part and it should be here tomorrow.", (two days later) "We just ordered the part and it should be here tomorrow."
Excuse after excuse after excuse.
I've spent lots of money on rentals already and cannot afford them anymore so I'm stuck with public transportation in the meantime and it's really become a serious problem. My wife and I came up with an idea and I'll fill you in on it once we try it.
So if anyone has any ideas on anything I can do to get more power and or gas mileage please let me know.
Thanks,
MikeyJ
In addition to the above, there is also a high pitch noise when driving. Another problem that started is that you have to jiggle the key in order to make to blower start (windows also don't work if blower doesn't come on). Any ideas???? Don't want to spend a fortune at a shop if there is something else I can try!
When I last posted this question, someone said that the amp was in the trunk near the DS rear wheel well. I did not find it there. Does anyone know for sure where the amp is?
Not too happy about this, but the car is 6 years old. This is the only the second problem we have had with this car. I suppose I should not complain......
Kinda quiet here lately.
Yeah, it has been kinda quiet here lately. My 2000 is up to about 120,500 miles. I'm going to take it in soon for a tranny service. I like to get them done every 30K miles on this car. Otherwise, it's been reliable. Made the last payment in November 2004, and probably haven't had to put more than $500 into it since then...including a new battery, oil changes, new rear brakes, an oil pan leak (my fault...I stripped it), and registration.
Still, I have some older cars like a 1985 Silverado, 1979 New Yorker, and 1976 LeMans that I could get down into single digits in the same type of driving!
I've broken 30 once or twice on the highway, but 26-28 seems to be the norm. Sometimes I wonder if I had sprung for a 3.2 what kind of mileage I would've gotten. Still I can't complain. 120K+ miles and no engine or tranny problems. Nothing really major at all, just an occasional minor annoyance here and there such as thermostat housing leaking, oil pressure light giving false readings, door seals shrinking, etc. I guess a false reading from the oil light is much better than a "true" reading, though! :surprise:
Thanks!
I know it's a totally different car, but it might at least give you a rough idea of what to look for, and where to look. Good luck!
How did the car run with the bad sensor...did it just feel like it needed a major tuneup? I wonder if it's something I should do just as preventive maintenance?
Somebody must have experienced this already, can you share? :confuse:
Our 97 Intrepid 3.5 appears to be leaking fuel from the line that goes under the front of the intake manifold. Could that fuel line have come loose under there? Do you have any tips for removing the intake manifold to get at that fuel line?
Thanks
Dave
The junkyard had a bunch of Intrepids and Concordes, and I was right...they are getting to the point that you can find non-wrecked examples that are coming in because of a blown engine or other major problem. The Intrepid I pulled a wheel off of had a bad 2.7, but otherwise looked like it had beenfine. The front-end clip was gone, as were both front wheels, but thankfully it had both rear wheels, and one of them had a good tire with plenty of tread on it.
So overall, this little catastrophe only cost me about $70. Guess it could've been worse. :surprise:
Hope all is well. I'm actively looking at 07' Pacifica's. The new 4.0 liter engine and 6 speed Autostick make it more appealing than the minivan options I was exploring. Best to all...
I have been casing the local junk yards to see if I can pick up a set of factory alloy wheels from either a Concord or an intrepid. So far no luck. Best I have seen is a set of three good ones. Really like the look of the spoke wheels they put on some of the cars.
I thought about using this little fiasco as an excuse to get some factory alloys for my Intrepid. They had a wrecked R/T in the junkyard, but it only had three good ones. The front driver's side was damaged from the wreck.
This hasn't exactly been a lucky month for me, vehicle-wise. On Friday I got rear-ended in my pickup truck. A car up ahead stopped rather abruptly to make a left turn from the lane, so the car behind it and me had to react even more quickly. Unfortunately, the Infiniti I30 behind me didn't stop fast enough, and smashed into me. Luckily all it did was bend my bumper down a bit and smash the bracket underneath. It's in the body shop now for an estimate. Hopefully there's no frame damage, but sometimes body-on-frame vehicles can be tricky like that. The I30 was a mess though. Still driveable, but the hood, fascia, grille, both headlights, and driver's side fender were smashed, and the radiator was pushed back a bit.
I guess it's a good thing that I drove the truck that day and not my Intrepid. I know it wouldn't have fared nearly as well as the truck in that impact, and with my luck it would've been enough to total it! :sick:
Now for the question, has anyone had problems with their tie rods going bad?? :mad: It happened to me and the repair was estimated at $650!! Talk about a rip-off because one of the mechanics offered to fix it for $200 and the parts was no more than $113..go figure. The things just rusted out and also caused my finance to wreck, sad.
Whatever you do, don't try to drive it if it overheats. That can destroy these modern aluminum engines very easily, and the repair bills can be scary. How many miles do you have on it? I had my coolant changed around 45 months/85,000 miles, even though it's supposedly good for 60 months/100,000 miles.