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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    "The way I look at it that car is worth whatever it saves you on another car payment. People say the car is not worth putting money into. As long as you enjoy the car, its paid for, and its reliable its fine to invest in repairs."

    That is good reasoning (and one I have subscribed to) until you've recently put $5000 into repairs, somebody hits you and the insurance company totals it and sends you a check for $400. Ouch! :cry:
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,685
    It was this date eight years ago, November 6, 1999, that I bought my Intrepid. Hard to believe it's been that long. I wonder if she'll last another 8 years?
  • criesinherbeercriesinherbeer Member Posts: 1
    How has the Intrepid failed me? My checkbook adds up to about 5K+ in repairs. Let's keep in mind that I paid $3500 for the car from a "friend". The car for a fact was well cared for prior to my demise, ooops, I mean purchase. The friend’s father had fluids changed, tune-ups, and general maintenance done on the car regularly. When he passed his mom could not bear to keep it. It was too much car for her and her husband never let anyone else drive. Especially not a girl. I promised to take good care of the treasure. Treasure??

    Before the ink was dry on the title *poof* transmission. What is wrong with the transmission? Well says Mr. Tow truck Driver, Probably the sensor, nothing major. These cars have trouble with sensors. NOPE! New transmission. Rebuilt of course because i am NOT paying more for repairs than the car itself. Or so I thought. 2 weeks 3K (borrowed from my boss) later car is running. YEAH!!

    Inspection time. I leave the transmission shop drive directly to inspection. Well says Mr. Inspection fellow, you have several issues before I can pass this car. These repairs added up to 1K total. For those of you countin' at home. We are at 4K and i haven't hit the 3-month mark!!

    Fast-forward a lil over 1 year. My car begins to make this horrifying grinding noise. Breaks gotta be the breaks. Family mechanic is consulted. Breaks are replaced. Drive it home (bout a 25-30 min ride) and the noise continues. i call said mechanic and take it back. He checks it out. No it's not the breaks but I now need a new exhaust. Ok good sir, how much is this check for? GREAT! here is my check good for $500. Thanks you and have a great day. See you at the bar. Long ride home still horrifying noise!!!! It is not the breaks but the longer the car runs, the more it grinds when the breaks are applied. Whatever, I stop when need be so I deal.

    Bad day at work? You just want to go home. You start your car you start the drive home and hit the highway. I can't put my driver window down now because that quit working during the fast forward part, along with the A/C and my passenger window decides when it is going to work on its own. Anyway, something on the dash catches my eye. It's the temp light with prompts me to look at the gage. It is above the "Oh my good heavens it's gonna explode stage". TIP: never leave your cell on the kitchen table when you are driving an Intrepid. I have to get home so my wonderful boyfriend can fix this heap. Or get it to a remote location and blow it to smithereens!

    In conclusion, it is 2 years; 5K+ in repairs, 15 radiator flushes, 3 bottles of Stop Leak later and the car has come to a full-fledged S-T-O-P! He just walked in and said it made a different but equally horrifying noise and pretty much gave him the bird.

    Was the car haunted by a poor lonely sole who would rather take the car out in pieces or is this car just truly a piece of crap?? I say crap but I am unsure of the unknown, hence it being called the unknown. I will never know.

    I am buying a new car on Saturday. I am not sure what I will but but I can assure you it will not start with a Dodge and end in Intrepid.

    The definition of Intrepid: adj. Resolutely courageous; fearless.

    I say the only thing fearless or courageous is the person who buys one. GOOD LUCK!
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,685
    What year is this Intrepid? What engine do you have? And how many miles are on it?

    I have a 2000 Intrepid with the 2.7, that I bought new. Currently has about 137,000 miles on it, and it is showing its age in some areas. I've had to put about $1900 into it in the past year, which includes new front brakes, new transmission lines, new radiator hoses (all of that dealer stuff, so it's pricey), both front bearing hubs (I think that was a dealer/factory part too), some other suspension work, recharging the a/c, two new tires, and a coolant flush.

    $1900 might seem like a lot, but for the age/mileage, I don't think it's too bad. Plus, this is by far the most money I've had to put into the car in any given year.

    Depending on the age/mileage of your car, I wonder if the previous owner might not have cared for it quite as well as they led you to believe? And the electrical system almost sounds to me like it might have failed at some point, but instead of getting it fixed right, by a professional, perhaps they just took it to some shadetree mechanic who monkeyed around with it and got it to more or less work again, but with unintended consequences (like your whacked power windows and HVAC controls)?

    Anyway, good luck with whatever else you end up buying.
  • calico2calico2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Intrepid with a 2.7 engine that I bought used for $4400 3 years ago. I had my mechanic look it over before I purchased it and he gave it a clean bill of health. Everything was going fine for four months and then the problems started. The car was leaking oil like nobody's tomorrow. We had to add a quart of oil a week (maybe more). We took it to the mechanic; he said the valve stems needed to be replaced. Estimate: $600. Six months later, we are having more engine problems. The mechanic then says that the 2.7 liter Intrepids are notorious for engine problems. Grrrr. Somehow this mechanic didn't see fit to tell us this BEFORE we bought the car. The estimate: $2000 to rebuild the engine. We did not do it. Last time we went to this mechanic.
    A few months after that, the car mysteriously stops working. It turns out a sensor went out. Cost $300.
    Eight months after that, the tie rods needed to be repaired: Cost $400.
    Seven months later, the car starts making grinding noises, which lasted for a week or two, gradually getting worse, until it finally refused to start.
    Total cost $5700, and that's not even counting the $2000 repair we didn't do!
    It's been sitting in my driveway for two months now. I am so disgusted with it, I just want to junk it and start over with another car. Sad thing is that I've had less trouble with my 91 Ford Aerostar van, and I've had it for 10 years, and the van is older than the Intrepid!
  • budbuddy29budbuddy29 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Intrepid that has some serious electrical problem. The car runs great, but the windows, turn signals, and heat control panel (including rear defroster) have stopped working all together along with my back up lights not working and my air bag light remaining lit at all times. At first I thought it had to do with a remote starter that had been installed on it, but after removing that, I still had the same problems. The windows are stuck halfway down and with winter approaching, I need to get this fixed a.s.a.p. for as little as possible. Dealer is really not an option, not for $80 an hour for labor. Hoping anyone can advise on the problem. I have the resources to fix it if I can diagnose it. Thanks!
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    I cant say for sure but the sludge issue is probably due to mistreatment and poor preventative maintiance. As long as you perform the regular service and take good care of the engine I cant see a problem. Its just hard for me to believe that an engine design could be responsible for cooking down the oil into sludge.

    The transmission fluid trick works well but dont run it long term. Change the oil then replace with cheap oil and a quart or even two of transmission fluid. Transmission fluid has very high detergent properties. Run the engine for 20 mins at idle then drain and replace with good qualitity oil.

    Any good qualitity oil will be fine if you change it regularly I believe the 2.7 is every 3,750 miles but I have not looked it up lately. Alot of newer engines recomend the 5-30. I have been told that the engineers feel it cuts down on wear at start up. Regular petroleum based oil is fine. Synthetic offers two big improvements the longer interval between oil changes and it can protect at higher temps. However unless the engine has a turbo it will never get to those temps. The drawback on synthetic is the higher cost.
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    My guess is the BCM also its the place where all those systems come togeather. I let the dealership replace mine but I probably should have done it myself. I got a $125 core charge for the old one so the price of the part actually came to $475. I would pull the fuse on your alarm system and see if anything improves. There also is a procedure to display the climate control errors on the odomeeter. I dont remember the process but get a Haynes manual from the auto parts store it in there.
  • trichiktrichik Member Posts: 3
    Hey. thanks for the response. Just wanted to give you an update. Bought one on ebay for 10.00. Had it installed (67.00). Worked for 2 days and it went out. Bought another used one for 75.00. Took it to the dealer to have it 'reprogrammed' for my car and installed. Was told that the current BCM was good, just had some pinched wiring behind the firewall that lead to the BCM. Fixed it for 79.00. Now Im sending the 75.00 one back for a refund. Keeping the original for a spare. Dont know why the dealer didnt find the wires during their diagnosis the first time around? Oh well. Live and learn. But it would have cost 600.00 if i had listened to the dealer the first time, but decided to try a used one instead! Now its all fixed and raring to go. Have a great holiday and be safe!
  • trichiktrichik Member Posts: 3
    I had the same issues (see electrical problems '99) Have the BCM (body control module) checked out or a wiring problem with the harness to the BCM. A new BCM will run you about 500.00. So check ebay (75.00 est.) Hope that helps! Have a great holiday and stay warm!
  • sportbikenut2sportbikenut2 Member Posts: 2
    Hello - Quick question on the TSB for oil light. My 2002 with 90k just started to do this. Only happens when warm, at idle, in gear. Oil level is correct. Is it a true false signal or is the pressure really low? What is the remedy? New oil pressure sending switch? Should be pretty easy and cheap to replace. Thanks.
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    i would check the connector first end then replace the sending unit if necessary. You should also try running a couple of quarts of ATF through the engine to clean out any gunk that may be restricting oil flow.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    2002 should not have an issue with the harness. Do it right-verify the oil pressure first,then make decisions/repairs. Do not run the engine for any time with low oil pressure.
  • arewhyinoharewhyinoh Member Posts: 13
    Long shot here, but wife is expecting our 3rd next week! Need to get a vehicle with 3 rows of seats. Anyone have an employee choice burning a hole in their pocket yet for 2007. Going in to lease a Chrysler on Monday and would love to use it!
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,685
    Well, here's what the TSB says about that oil light problem:

    NUMBER: 08-36-99
    GROUP: Electrical
    DATE: Oct. 15, 1999
    SUBJECT:
    Engine Oil Pressure Light Flicker
    OVERVIEW:
    This bulletin involves adding a terminal/wire/vent to the oil pressure switch connector.
    MODELS:
    1998 - 1999 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid
    NOTE :THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 2.7L ENGINE.
    SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
    With a hot engine the oil pressure light may be on or flicker on at idle.
    DIAGNOSIS:
    Verify engine oil pressure as described on page 9-21 of the 1999 Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M service manual (Publication No. 81-270-9140). If engine oil pressure is within specification perform the Repair Procedure.
    PARTS REQUIRED:
    1 05017800AA Wire Terminal/Vent
    REPAIR PROCEDURE:
    1. Raise vehicle on a suitable hoist.
    2. Remove engine oil pressure switch connector from switch.
    3. Remove sealing dart from the empty cavity at the rear of the connector.
    4. Pull terminal locking ring outward from front (switch) side of connector to gain access to terminal locking tabs.
    5. Install wire terminal/vent, p/n 05017800AA, in place of the removed sealing dart. Slide locking ring back into place.
    6. Attach the connector back on the oil pressure switch.
    7. Spot tape the wire/vent to follow the harness towards the top of the engine compartment.

    In my case, it was a false read, and the oil pressure was just fine. However, it acted just like a real oil pressure problem, which had me worried. I also have a 1967 Pontiac Catalina that had what seemed to be the same problem. Once fully warmed up, at idle, the oil pressure light would come on. It also had an aftermarket gauge installed, and it confirmed the low reading. When the pressure got below about 18 psi, the idiot light would come on. That car idled so slow though, I'm surprised it didn't stall out at traffic lights. I tried bumping up the idle a bit, but that didn't totally solve the problem. Had my mechanic check it out, and he said to just run thicker oil in it. I had been using straight 30W, and we switched it to 20W-50, and I never had a problem with it again.

    Because my Intrepid was acting just like my Catalina did (light only coming on at idle, when fully warmed up, and would go away if I put it in neutral and revved it a bit), it made me think there really was a problem with it. Fortunately, the TSB took care of it.

    Anyway, good luck with it! Hopefully it's a minor issue and nothing expensive!
  • smdotson1smdotson1 Member Posts: 1
    My wifes 2001 Intrepid has 105,000 miles on it and things are beginning to go,we had to replace the A/C this past summer, the neg. battery post corroded in 2 (that was a fun job,had to FIND it first), front brakes etc... Nothing really unusual for the age and miles, ut it does have an erie electricall whine when the rakes are pressed, at first I thought it was the pads sqeaking but its not, its comoing from under the dash, a very high pitched squeal. and now the radiator has sprung a leak and after loking at it for about 30 minutes I still cant figure out how to get it out, Can someone out there shed some light on it for me, I can't really afford to take it to a shop right now and I'm sure I can do it myself unless it involves messing with the A/C lines.
  • rizzo2k8rizzo2k8 Member Posts: 1
    Recently my mother took her 1996 Dodge Intrepid to the dealer for a safety recall for the gear shifter. After the service was performed the brake pedal somes makes a loud thumping noise when depressed. It sounds and feels like someone hitting the floorboard from underneath. Being a mechanic myself i checked my mother's car after the service was performed and advised her to take the car back to the dealer when i noticed the brake pedal problem which started right after the car was serviced for the recall.When my mother took the car back to the dealer, all the technician did was see what was happening and told my mother what he "thought" the problem might be. At no time did he check anything on the car to find the problem! Later on after a lenghty conversation with the service manager they agreed to check out the car the next day at no charge. After checking out the car the technician determined that the problem is in the hydraulic control unit(HCU) for the ABS system. He left me a message to tell me about it and told me that if it was him, he wouldn't worry about fixing it that it would not affect the overall braking of the car.That very well may be true however, eventually the ABS light will come on and with Virginia's laws for state inspection,it wouldn't pass.I told my mother to go ahead and get it fixed. The problem now is that the part that is needed is a discontinued item and the only way to fix it is with a used part.It is going to cost over $600 to fix this problem.After learning that the part was discontinued, I called the parts department at a different dealership and was told the same thing, that the part was not available. The person i spoke to there told me that in this situation, it might be best to junk this car! I forgot to mention that this car has ONLY 35,000 miles on it and has had NO major problems until this happened so junking it is certainly not an option.
    In my opinion I feel that both dealerships I spoke with have been very unprofessional and since this problem started after service was performed at the dealership, they should be the ones who should take care of it. Also, what happend to car manufacterers being required to make parts for cars for at least 10 years after production? I would appreciate any input on this matter.
  • backhoekenbackhoeken Member Posts: 1
    Hello all. We are looking for a 1st car for my daughter. Found a 2000 Intrepid RT with 100K miles. It appears clean and runs well. Have read there is a lot of problems with the 2.7 engine which this does not have. What other things should we look for or would you recommend just passing it by.

    Thank you Ken
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    My experience is that Dodge dealerships service depts are horrible. I have been through 7 of them. I couldn't wait until the warranty ran out on my Intrepid so I could do the work myself.

    Discontinued doesn't mean they cant still order it. The same part was used on 96 through 97 and you right they have to provide parts for 10 years.

    Anyway heres a link I found a new one on line for $729 IIRC

    http://www.trademotion.com/shoppingcart/index.cfm?action=viewCart&siteid=214583&- retval=index%2Ecfm%3Faction%3DgetJointLocator%26siteid%3D214583%26chapter%3D%26S- ectionids%3D18%2C0%26groupid%3D10002%26subgroupid%3D60775%26componentid%3D0%26ma- ke%3D8%26model%3DIntrepid%26year%3D1996%26catalogid%3D1
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    Mine has the 2.7 and 135,000 miles heres what I can remember

    A/C evaporator replaced
    Water leak from antenna mount
    Cooling fan motors replaced
    Replace both front windows
    Replace hood and trunk struts
    Replace brake booster

    I still like my Intrepid and I plan on keep it, but if I was you I would not pay over 2,000 for the RT.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,685
    It appears clean and runs well. Have read there is a lot of problems with the 2.7 engine which this does not have. What other things should we look for or would you recommend just passing it by

    My biggest concern would be the transmission. While the 3.5 is a more reliable engine than the 2.7, it's also more strenuous on the transmission, because of the added power. If the tranny seems to operate fine, and the seller has service records showing it's been maintained, it would probably be okay.

    I came close to buying a used 2002 Intrepid R/T with 35,000 miles on it back in late 2003. In the end, I'm glad I didn't though. It wasn't a bad car...nicer than my 2000 base model, which had about 86,000 miles on it at the time. However, I just didn't want to start over with a car payment, and at the time, I only had about 15 months left on my 2000.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,685
    I finally had one of the headlights go out on my 2000 Intrepid. Low beam on the passenger side. I bought the bulb from Autozone for about $15. Pretty annoying, considering those old fashioned sealed beam headlights are only around $5-8, but I guess these new ones do last longer. I've had the car 8 years and 2 months, and this is the first headlight bulb replacement.

    Next, the real fun part was figuring out how to get it in. I'd seen these assemblies in the past where you reach in behind the assembly to get to them. Well, the air filter housing was in the way, so I started pulling it apart. Finally wrestled with it and got it out, only to see that there was no way in hell to get to the bulb from that way. Then, I noticed these two black bolts, about 13/32" I guess. I took them out, and voila...the whole cluster just lifted right out the front, and all the bulbs were easy to get to.

    So, they actually make it pretty easy...as long as you do it the right way! :blush:
  • deezozdodgedeezozdodge Member Posts: 4
    Hello to you Intrepid owners. I have a 2002 Intrepid, 2.7 L. I purchased the car in 2005 (54k), and drove it from Seattle to New Jersey. Great car, and she got me to my destination, no problems... :shades: I had only changed the oil at regular intervals and used synthetic; now part synthetic. Got the front brakes done ($383.08) :surprise: at Brake Stop, which I could've done myself, but I got lazy and did not want to deal with it. Check engine light pops on and off every now and then prior to the brake work :confuse: . Now, the light stays on :confuse: . I turned my ignition key to the "on" position three consecutive times and low and behold there is the code that reads P0441 (Evap Purge Flow Monitor). The car has 118k miles now here in 2008 and I did not replace the O2 sensors (very costly, but needed). I am wondering if it is my O2 sensors needing to be replaced. I will replace them anyway; however, I need to check my Purge Control Seloniod if the O2 sensors replacement does not rectify the problem. Any advise??? :)
  • deezozdodgedeezozdodge Member Posts: 4
    Ditto... The Haynes manual is good for basic stuff...
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    That RT should have the 3.5 liter (or perhaps the 3.2, which is the same engine as the 3.5). I have had a 1999 ES with the 3.2 since new and the engine, transmission, body have been trouble free, now with 125,000 miles. My son takes it to his college 250 miles away, and I have no qualms about that.

    You should be aware that spark plug and timing belt and water pump change is due at 105,000 miles. I would negotiate that $400-$500 with the seller, if it hasn't been done.

    It rides great, has a a big back seat and trunk. The back seat folds down (that's where he carries his surf board). I did help him put in a subwoofer last weekend. (BOOM, BOOM, BOOM ;).

    Problems: 1. Speed sensor at about 25,000 miles
    2. radiator Cooling fans at about 100,000 miles


    The 2.7 has caused some owners problems, with sludge, if the oil and filter changes were no often. :shades:
  • tornavalanchetornavalanche Member Posts: 2
    Greetings - My wiper fluid reservoir suddenly stopped holding fluid today. Obviously I have a leak somewhere, can somebody list the possible culprits and what each might cost to fix?

    Also, my headlight lenses have been clouding over on the inside, causing my lights to dim so much that I can hardly tell they are on while I'm driving. Is there any way to clean them out or do I just have to buy new lenses?

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    I don't know about the wiper fluid.

    However, the clouding on the lenses is most likely to be on the outside (that's what has happened to everyone elses'). They can be made and clear by a process that takes awhile to achieve. Get some wet sandpaper (the kind used for autobody work) and some plastic polish. Put the plastic polish on the lenses and start sanding. Use fine, then progress to even finer sandpaper as you go. It can take some time, but a lot cheaper than buying lenses. Elbow Grease! :shades:
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,685
    Yeah, I thought my clouding was on the inside as well, but it was actually outside. Another quick and easy way to eliminate some of the clouding is to just take some toothpaste and an old toothbrush, and go to work on them. I did that with mine back in November, and it seemed to help a bit. Although I'm sure sandpaper and polish would work better.

    Has anyone ever priced an Intrepid headlight assembly? Back in 2004, a buddy of mine with a '95 Grand Marquis had to buy a new assembly. His had deteriorated so badly that it cracked along the bottom and was starting to fall apart! I remember the part itself was about $225, from the dealer, but at least came with all the bulbs in place. I tried to help him put it on, but couldn't figure it out. He had to pay a shop another $75 to put it on, so I imagine it was a bit more difficult than just the two long bolts that hold the Intrepid's in place.

    Sadly, he spent $300 total to replace that cluster, and then the following month, traded the car in on a slightly used '04 Crown Vic, and only got $600 trade! He probably would've gotten the same amount whether he'd replaced it or not.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,151
    >eliminate some of the clouding is to just take some toothpaste

    I read your comment about toothpaste. I read somewhere else to use toothpaste that is the old style--not gel--so that you get the limestone in it.

    I tried it. It works. Keep adding fresh paste. Use a small piece of terrycloth. Rub. I did NOT use a toothbrush. I did NOT use sandpaper. I also used ScratchOut which I figured has grit. I also used Meguiar's plastic polish. I also used GM plastic polish from 1978 meant for interior lenses.

    I have one lens on my Buick looking great. Mine was generally within 1-2 inches of the top edge of the plastic cover.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • tornavalanchetornavalanche Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the suggestions, folks. I'll have to give that a shot on the next weekend it gets above 10 degrees here in Omaha!

    As far as my wiper fluid problem, the pump had burned out which was a $150 repair. Murphy's Law was in full effect so I figured it wouldn't just be a cracked hose or something - it had to be the most expensive part of the system. :sick:
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    I'll have to give that a shot on the next weekend it gets above 10 degrees here in Omaha!
    ^^^^^^^^^^^
    No weather for brass monkeys! :P Enjoy the scrubbing. I hadn't heard of the toothpast idea. I guess some pumice would help, too.
    %%%%%%%%%%%%%%

    As far as my wiper fluid problem, the pump had burned out which was a $150 repair. Murphy's Law was in full effect so I figured it wouldn't just be a cracked hose or something - it had to be the most expensive part of the system.
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

    Ain't it always that way. :confuse: :shades:
  • wintopwintop Member Posts: 1
    Hello all. A quick question. Does anyone know if the labor to replace the cradle bushing on a 96 Intrepid includes the lower control arm assembly's along with the strut rod's or is it seperate labor charge to have those items replaced at the same time?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,685
    lately my 2000 Intrepid 2.7 has gotten into the habit of cutting off without warning. It first happened about a week ago. I was driving along, about 35-40 mph, radio cranked up, when suddenly the oil light came on. At first I got a bit scared but then I noticed that the steering was a bit stiff, so the car had actually cut off...the radio was just up loud enough that I couldn't hear that the engine was off. I drifted off to the side of the road to get out of traffic and stopped at the side. Turned the key, and it fired right up like nothing ever happened.

    The next day, going into work, doing about 40-45 mph, I felt the car, for lack of a better word, kick. I thought maybe it was the transmission, or the torque converter getting confused. Then it did it again about a half-mile later. But then that was it.

    But then yesterday, when I got to work, pulling into the parking spot it cut out on me again. I had just enough momentum to drift into the spot and park. Put it into park, turned the key, and it fired right back up! :confuse: That made me think about when the car started kicking last week, that perhaps it was just about to stall, but didn't quite get there.

    Any ideas on what it could be? The car has about 139,000 miles on it, and I just had new spark plugs put in. Maybe the mechanic simply left a loose wire somewhere? Or maybe the fuel filter is starting to go? But the two times the car has cut off completely, it would just do it instantly. I'm guessing if it wasn't getting enough fuel it would start to cough and sputter before stalling?
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    My did that on and off for months. After awhile it would not start right back up. Then it did turn over at all I ended up replacing the PCM, crank sensor, cam sensor, and the idle adjust motor. One other symptom was that some of the relays would start clicking and some of the dash lights stayed on. The total bill was around $1,400.00.

    1999 Intrepid
    134,000 miles
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,685
    The total bill was around $1,400.00.

    Uh oh, that's a scary thought! Do you regret putting that much money into your car? Have you bee pretty happy with it, otherwise?

    I've been satisfied with my 2000 Intrepid. The only really expensive year I had was 2007, when I had to put about $2,000 into it. That included two new front bearing hubs, new front brakes, recharging the air conditioning, a coolant flush, new hoses, new transmission cooling lines, two new tires, some other part in the suspension that I'm forgetting about now, and probably a few other odds and ends I can't recall.

    Too bad it can't be like the old days, when your car stalls out, and then $2.98 and a new ballast resistor later, you're on your way again!
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    I do regret it, I had a chance to trade the car in when we bought the van. I decided to keep it. Its actually a third car that I could do without. I also ended up putting another $400 in in to fix a problem with the alarm system, and I replaced the valve stem seals myself but it still ran another $500. So I have ended up spending $2,300 on a car I could have done without. I do like the Intrepid though, and I am not upset about it. It was just a decision I could have made differently.

    It was not a waste of money though. I have 3 years since the Intrepid was paid off. Payments on the new van will run me $4,000 a year. So you got to figure the Intrepid costs a lot less to own.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,685
    It was not a waste of money though. I have 3 years since the Intrepid was paid off. Payments on the new van will run me $4,000 a year. So you got to figure the Intrepid costs a lot less to own.

    Yeah, ain't that the truth! I figure that since I made my last payment in November, 2004, I've had to sink about $3400 into my Intrepid, plus gas & insurance. Not bad for roughly 40 months.

    And in my case, the Intrepid is still my primary car. I have a roommate who doesn't have a car, and last year I had been letting him borrow the Intrepid, as he had to drive about 20 miles to work, whereas my commute is only about 3.5 miles. He'd pay for the gas and insurance, and give me money every month to help cover maintenance/repairs.

    Nowadays though, he's only working about 5 miles away, so I'm having him drive my old '85 Chevy pickup, and I'm back to having the Trep as my main source of transportation.

    I'm tempted sometimes to get a new car, but I just don't want to deal with getting back into a monthly payment, plus the increase in car insurance. So I'll probably just hang onto my Trep until something truly catastrophic breaks on it.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    I've always looked at repairing a car this way. If i'm not nuts about any new model I always think of repairs as car payments. Will the repair cost more than car payments for 6 months? Will the old car last another 6 months? if no/yes keep the old one.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,685
    I've always looked at repairing a car this way. If i'm not nuts about any new model I always think of repairs as car payments.

    Yeah, I've been taking that perspective. At this point, my magic figure is $300 per month. I figure any halfway decent new car is going to cost at least that. So if I have to put $900 into my car and get another 3 months out of it, I'm happy. FWIW, I figure the car has averaged about $85 per month since it's been paid off. I've put around $3400 into it over the course of around 40 months. So theoretically, I could wind up putting another $8600 into it tomorrow, and still arrive at my $300 per month average. I'm not so sure I'd be willing to go that far! :surprise:

    I think my tipping point would be the transmission. I hear a replacement on these cars is about $2500. At that point, I might be tempted to dump it and run. And if the engine ever needed to be replaced, that would definitely be the final nail in this car's coffin.

    I'm really not that crazy about any of the new cars out there, though. I kinda like the Charger, but wouldn't get one with a 2.7. And next time around I want something a bit more economical than the 3.5. Plus, I never was that crazy about the Charger's interior quality. It just seems a bit cheap and plasticky, compared to the Intrepid.

    The Pontiac G8 looks like it might be a cool car, but I'm not ready to plunk down $30K plus for a car. And again, there's the fuel economy concerns. Don't really care for the Camry or the '08 Accord either, although I do like the Altima. But not enough to get back into monthly payments.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Son and I just fixed the driver's side window. The clips holding it to the mechanism in the door had broken, so the window fell out of the track. We got the clips from the dealer, took the old clips off (heat and a sharp knife to break the cement) and JB Welded the new clips in place. Good as new for $20 and a couple of hour waiting for the JB to harden. :shades:
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,685
    That's good to know that we can still use cheapo backyard tactics to patch our cars back up! I did something similar years ago when my '68 Dart's door window came loose from the regulator. There was some plastic piece that broke off. I forget how I fixed it, but I think I just raided a junk drawer in my grandmother's garage and found a bolt and nut that would hold it, and some plastic washers to cushion the glass from the bolt and nut.
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    Years ago my passenger side window busted and the dealer told me the entire window had to be replaced $300. The car was still under the extended warranty but it did not cover glass. Then years latter the drivers side window went and since the warranty ran out I set out to fix it myself. I used a little Marinetex its a boat epoxy and one of the top three products I have ever used in my life. I epoxyied the clip back together and it has been fine ever since.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    In 2009 Chrysler will come out with a "new engine" called the Phoenix which will be available in various displacements and will be capable of running on 2, 4, or 6 cylinders depending on the load. It is promising good fuel economy as well as performance.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    MarineTex is great stuff, too. I use it all the time for repairs. :shades:
  • eddie007eddie007 Member Posts: 1
    :mad:how doi or is it even possible to adjust the caster on the 1996 dodge intrepid.... it turns left all the time.
  • aclark1aclark1 Member Posts: 1
    Roger, what do you mean the CLIPS .... they hold the glass onto the track? and did you get the clips at a dodge dealer
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    "what do you mean the CLIPS .... they hold the glass onto the track? and did you get the clips at a dodge dealer"

    Yes, there are clips clipped and cemented on to the window and these bolt to the mechanism. I bought them at a Dodge Dealer. The pair was about $20. Cement on with JB Weld or similar. Heat the existing clips gently and use a sharp knife to remove the old clips (Be gentle). :shades:
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    The clip I am speaking about is the point where the arm from the electric motor attaches to the window. It holds the window level and allows it to ride in the tracks. The clip on mine did not need to be replaced. I epoxied the mounting piece back on to the clip.
  • hexbolthexbolt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Intrepid 2.7L that just started making a grinding sound. It sounds like another motor is running. It is not loud but it sounds like a blower or something. This happens when the car is moving only. The tranny shifts fine and there are no "engine lights" on. I hoping this is just a CV joint but it may also be the transaxle. If anyones had this experience I am just looking for some ideas on where to start.
  • bobe4bobe4 Member Posts: 12
    My '99 Intrepid at 132k mi had a sound like a pan of rocks rolling around in the front end. The engine fan and the A/C fan were shot. Replacement of fans and a couple of belts (serpentine and another) cost about $800 at the dealer in May 2006. Still going strong at 152k, but should replace the steering gear box.
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