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Dodge Intrepid

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Comments

  • rlp50rlp50 Member Posts: 13
    Hi all,
    '96 Intrepid - getting codes 12 & 42. Have checked harnesses and battery cables and all seems fine. When I turn the key to run I get no warning lights at all, however car will start and run. After a few miles all gauges and warning lights suddenly come on. Will the MFI relay cause this intermittent problem?
    Thanks,
    RP
  • achance01achance01 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 intrepid 2.7L engine with 87,000 miles. It has been very reliable and a joy to drive. My oil pressure light has just started flickering and I had the oil sending unit replaced. The light is continueing to flicker. I too have heard the stories of the 2.7L engine being prone to failure and I am spooked over this. Anyone have any suggestions on how I can save my baby. :blush:
  • 93taurus93taurus Member Posts: 6
    I had the same problem with my 98 trep, 2.7 motor. if you check with your Dodge parts department, there is a vent line which attaches to the sending unit electrical connector, which can be zip tied along a near by wire harness away from the exhaust manifold.I have replaced 2 senders in the last 6 months.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    ...dear Intrepid. It was 9 years ago today...November 6, 1999, that I took delivery of my new 2000 Intrepid 2.7 base model. Roughly 142,500 miles, and still running fine. It's amazing though how fast the time goes by...it doesn't seem like 9 years!

    achance01, my Trep had the flickering light problem, and oddly enough, it was right around 87,000 miles! Does yours only come on once the car is fully warmed up, and only at idle? Such as when you're sitting in traffic, or stopped at a traffic light? That's what mine did, and because it only did it at low rpm situations like that, I thought there was something serious wrong. However, there is a TSB out for the fix...basically what 93taurus described. When they fixed mine, it was free of charge, but I don't know how far back they'll honor a TSB.

    As for the 2.7, it can be prone to failure, but every mechanic I've ever talked to said that it's usually abuse or neglect that does it. Stuff like letting the oil get too low, or waiting too long to change it.
  • achance01achance01 Member Posts: 3
    andre1969, where would I locate this TSB for the fix. My husband is seriously wanting to trade it. I care for his 85 yoa mother and our autistic son. He does not want me to be stranded anywhere or to be without a vehicle. But I love my car and do not want to get rid of it if possible. My mechanic can not find the problem and says the next step is to start tearing down the motor to see if anything is internal. Thanks for your assistance.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    Back when I had my oil pressure light problem, an Edmund's member was able to find the TSB for me. I did some digging back, and found the info...

    NUMBER: 08-36-99
    GROUP: Electrical
    DATE: Oct. 15, 1999
    SUBJECT:
    Engine Oil Pressure Light Flicker
    OVERVIEW:
    This bulletin involves adding a terminal/wire/vent to the oil pressure switch connector.
    MODELS:
    1998 - 1999 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid
    NOTE :THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 2.7L ENGINE.
    SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
    With a hot engine the oil pressure light may be on or flicker on at idle.
    DIAGNOSIS:
    Verify engine oil pressure as described on page 9-21 of the 1999 Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M service manual (Publication No. 81-270-9140). If engine oil pressure is within specification perform the Repair Procedure.
    PARTS REQUIRED:
    1 05017800AA Wire Terminal/Vent
    REPAIR PROCEDURE:
    1. Raise vehicle on a suitable hoist.
    2. Remove engine oil pressure switch connector from switch.
    3. Remove sealing dart from the empty cavity at the rear of the connector.
    4. Pull terminal locking ring outward from front (switch) side of connector to gain access to terminal locking tabs.
    5. Install wire terminal/vent, p/n 05017800AA, in place of the removed sealing dart. Slide locking ring back into place.
    6. Attach the connector back on the oil pressure switch.
    7. Spot tape the wire/vent to follow the harness towards the top of the engine compartment.

    This TSB says it only affects 1998-99 models, but it was also issued in 1999, so needless to say, the problem wasn't fixed by 2000! Anyway, print the above info out, and give it to your mechanic, and that should be a good starting point. Also, just a word of warning. If there's anything serious wrong with your 2.7, you might be better off just getting rid of the car and finding something else. The 2.7 is a fine engine when it's working, but when it breaks, it can be horribly expensive to fix. I've heard that if a 2.7 engine blows, it's actually cheaper to have a 3.2/3.5 engine swapped in! And Intrepids don't have very good resale value, so don't sink a ton of money into the car unless you truly, truly love it.

    I like my 2000 Intrepid, but have to admit that, at 142,500 miles, if the engine fried or the transmission shredded, I'd drop it like a hot rock.
  • achance01achance01 Member Posts: 3
    I what to thank everyone for their help and suggestions. But my husand and I decided to get rid of it because we would constantly be wondering would today be the day that something horrible goes wrong.
  • chebochebo Member Posts: 1
    Will an 2001 intrepid 3.2 engine fit in a 97 intrepid and will the computer connections work? I want to buy one, but don't know if it will fit.
  • pkrieschenpkrieschen Member Posts: 10
    Hello.
    What you are describing is the same thing I have been fighting with. With my problem after awhile, everything works. Have you found the problem?
    I took mine to a dealer because no one else would touch it. They said it could be one of two things. The instrument cluster or the transmission control modual. I am a mechanic, their troubleshooting consists of replace components at your expense. I tried the module and it did not work. I just cant seem to pay $325.00 for a new display. I think it's the body controll module since my cruse controll does not work either. Let me know what you think.
    Paul
  • pkrieschenpkrieschen Member Posts: 10
    What is the MFI relay? I have this problem also but no one seems to have the answers.
  • bran9192bran9192 Member Posts: 23
    My son has a 97 Intrepid that won't start, have spark, air & fuel but will not start.The first time this happened we replaced the fuel pump relay fuse, the fuel gauge said there was 1/4 tank but didn't sound like it had anything in the tank. Added 5 gals gas and still wouldn't start. Tech at auto store said to hit the bottom of the tank while trying to crank and it started right up. He said the fuel float may have gotten stuck and not read right or a piece of debris had clogged the filter and we dislodged it after adding fuel. It ran fine for a week, didn't show no signs of problems then it wouldn't start. I don't want to replace everything on it just to eliminate the problem like others are saying they have done. How can I tell for certian its the fuel pump, fuel pump regulator rather than the crankshaft or something else before going out to buy these parts...any suggestions?
  • rlp50rlp50 Member Posts: 13
    As it turns out the MFI relay (which was one of the codes I was getting) isn't the problem. (MFI = Multiport Fuel Injection). Still looking for the answer, however I have noticed that if I leave the ignition in the run position, without trying to start, all gauges, etc. will activate in about 30-60 seconds.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    The 2001 and 1997 are two different types of intrepids. The original LH models (Intrepid/Vision/Concorde) run ended with the 1997 models. The second generation started with the 1998s. The engines are completely different. I think changing the 3.2 into a 1997 would be a lot of trouble. You need to get an engine from one of the first generation models.
  • bran9192bran9192 Member Posts: 23
    All the local part stores are quoting me 192.00 - 208.00 on 97 3.3L fuel pump. I found one on ebay for 59.95 plus 7.00 shipping with a 12,000 mile/12 month warranty. Why such a difference in price? Has anyone bought a fuel pump from ebay before?
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    Mine is a 99 but I had alot of problem with my guage cluster and they car would shut off for no reason. I ended up disconnecting the aftemarket alarm replacing the crank and cam sensors and replacing the PCM
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    relay's on my 99 are interchangeable. Just switch it with one of the others and see if the problem continues.
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    fuel pump failure is not common have you verified that its the problem I would check crank and cam sensors first
  • dmsr1rollins1dmsr1rollins1 Member Posts: 1
    Ihave a 96 intrpid with 3.5 and auto trans.I also have a 97 with a 3.3 and auto trans. Will these motors interchange?
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    I am not sure but my instinct says no. Either 97 or 98 was a model change and the engines are not compatable
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    Actually 1998 was the year that the 2nd-generation Intrepid came out. 1996 and 1997 are the same car. However, I still don't know how easy it would be to swap a 3.3 and a 3.5. I'm sure it can be done, depending on how talented you are. Or how much time, effort, and money you want to put into it!

    I've heard that the 3.5, while OHC, is actually based on the older 3.3/3.8 pushrod engine. So I guess it's possible that some things like the transmission bolt pattern, engine mounts, etc might be similar.
  • pkrieschenpkrieschen Member Posts: 10
    Here is my problem which is intermitent.

    Insert key into ingnition switch and turn to Run. Instrument panel does not ellimunate. Start engine. All gages on the panel are not functioning.
    Then all of a sudden evertything works. As I mentioned this before its intermitent.
    If I attemp to drive while tha panel is not working the tranjsmission will not shift out of 1st gear.

    I have had the transmission modual replaced per the dealer. Then they siad to replace the Circuit board on the instrument panel. I really think its something else since the panel circiuit board has no switches to turn on. I have the manual and I am now looking at the body control module. This little jem controls all the instrument panels functions. Oh I forgot to mention that the cruse control is also not work. This is also controlled by the BCM.

    Any one else having this problem and figuree it out?
  • bran9192bran9192 Member Posts: 23
    Checked the pressure and got nothing so its the fuel pump. Ordered the fuel pump & got it in the mail last night..... according to the manual the fuel pump is located in the trunk under the spare tire..... I took the carpet out and theres rubber mat attached to the bottom of the trunk and the 4 bolts that are supposed to be there are not..... this is a 97 3.3L so where the heck did it go? Any help would be appreciated?
  • pkrieschenpkrieschen Member Posts: 10
    On my 95 you have to pull the carpeting from the back off the rear seat (in the trunk) There you will see an oval pan with 4 nuts. Remove that pan and there it is.
  • bran9192bran9192 Member Posts: 23
    Thanks for responding....According to the Haynes book & other owners the access panel is located in the trunk under the spare tire.... are you saying its in the trunk at the back seat and not under the spare tire?
  • pkrieschenpkrieschen Member Posts: 10
    Thats correct. The fuel tank sits behind the spare tire. Towards the rear of the trunk. If you pull back the carpeting from the rear of the trunk which goes up the back seat, you will see the ovalplate with 4 nuts. remove the nuts, lift the plate and there you have the pump. Its is held on the tank by a clamp. Once to remove the two fuel lines and the vent line and the wire connector, loosen the clamp. be carful when lifting it out of the tank it will be full of fuel.
    Hope this helps.
  • bran9192bran9192 Member Posts: 23
    Thanks I appreciate the help! I took the carpet and rolled it back to so I could get to the area under the spare tire. Didn't know it would be that far back... I was told it was a fairly easy fix...will see tomorrow since I ran out of day light! Again, thanks a bunch! Happy Thanksgiving!
  • pkrieschenpkrieschen Member Posts: 10
    Glad I could be of some help. I am currently trying to find a solution to an electrical problem. Thats why Im on this site. When I start the engine non of the gages or light work on the cluster. And if I drive the trans will not shift out of 1st gear. Then all of a sudden everything starts to work. I took it to the dealer who suggested I replace the Trans module since this supports the display. BS. I say. I am a mechanic of some sorts I know electricity and how to troubleshoot. Keep in mind the dealers stink when it comes to troubleshooting. Their idea of troubleshooting to to remove and replace components at your expence.
    I had trouble with my fuel gage and pump because it sat for a long time. I had to take th pump out of the tank and apply 12V dc to the pins and it started to work. Then I had to remove the little sensor, the ones with the copper looking arms and bend them just enough to make better contact. That fixed it. So I know what your going through. I actually have the factory manual I purchased when I oredered my car. If you need any other help just drop me a line. @ Paul14@cox.net. Oh one tip to check that the fuel pump is working is , when to turn the key to start position, you should hear the pump come on then turn off. Its very fast and you may want to have some one near the tank to listen.
  • pkrieschenpkrieschen Member Posts: 10
    Have you figured out the problem?
  • bran9192bran9192 Member Posts: 23
    Thanks Paul!

    Yeah, I tried to hear the pump kick in and didn't hear anything. Got the new fuel pump in the car Thursday... runs great! My son is so thrilled Mom don't have to take him to & from school and work...LOL I must say Mom is thrilled that I'll go back to 1 tank of fuel a week vs 2...YAY!!!!! Thanks again! Hope you had a nice Thanksgiving! I saved 140.00 buying the fuel pump on ebay & I saved the sellers store to my favorites for future parts..... Did you get your car fixed yet?
  • bran9192bran9192 Member Posts: 23
    Have you taken the dash out to inspect all the wires to make sure none of them have burned or worse....a rodent get in through the vent system? There was a member in the rx 8 club that had a mouse crawl in through the vent and take up residence in the dash and did a good bit of damage to the wiring. Just a thought.... I now keep my vents on recirculate to make sure outside vents are closed & no rodents crawl in there!
  • daviddavid Member Posts: 2
    I am getting a smell of antifreeze in my car but the windows are not steaming up and there is no sign of leakage and the antifreeze dont seem to be going down.
    seems wors when you first start the car up i have lots of heat if any one has any ideas PLEASE help me . thank you David it is a 1994 intrepid
  • pkrieschenpkrieschen Member Posts: 10
    If there is no leak inside the car then there may be a hole in one of the hoses and it only leaks when you build up pressure. Thats where I would look first. Monitor the coolent level. Is the any white smoke comming from the exhaust? If this is to be then you have a blown head gasket and coolent is getting into the cylinders. Check around the heads of the engine for leaks.
  • daviddavid Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the reply ,i was'nt loosen any coolant i could just get a strong smell of coolant in the car .now i've let the car set in the garage for the past two days thanking of tearing the dash out to get at the heater core .i decided to start the engine first and when i did now more smell.not shore what happen i just hope it stays like that. thanks again for the reply.

    dave.
  • imz_lucky_1imz_lucky_1 Member Posts: 1
    I wonder what the average cost to replace the water pump, belts, and plugs on a 1995 Dodge Intrepid. I had a friend do it, and I think he is way overcharging me, so if I could get some rough estimates from anyone I would appreciate it!
    Thanks, Vikki
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    The cost for doing this with a mechanic's shop is $500-$700.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    We now have about 85000 mi on the old girl. I just put in a new battery and rear pads and rotors. Fronts will be due by 100000. Brakes were easy to do, the second time with the battery really was not that bad at all. I need to take the drivers side door apart to take a look at the power lock. Makes a squeak sometimes when it is locked or unlocked. Anyone here who has taken an intrepid door apart who can give me advice on the easiest way to take the door panel off? There are usually clips on the bottom on car doors, but I do not want to force anything going in blind.
    The car still runs very well.......wish we could buy a new one!!
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,655
    How hard was it to do the rear brake pads? I've done the front pads on my 2000 Intrepid, and ended up having to replace the rotors around 99,000 miles, back in 2004. The front brakes were a cinch, but I've always been afraid to mess with the rear brakes.

    I had the mechanic do my rear pads around 51,000 miles, and again around 102,000 miles, so if I keep up that rate, I guess I'll need them again around 150-155,000 miles. I'm at around 144K now, and don't really drive like I used to, so that's at least a year off.

    I've never had a door panel off, but if you do find out how to take yours off, please post it here! The power lock in the left rear door of my car went bad. It'll lock okay, but won't unlock. I just never bothered to mess with it, because it's not that often I use the back seat of the car. I'm a bit leery of trying to mess with it myself, but one of my friends said he could probably do it.

    Overall, I've been happy with the car. I do get bored with it from time to time, but whenever I look at what's out there now, there's not really anything that excites me...at least not in the same price range that my Intrepid originally was.

    If Chrysler was still building the Intrepid, I would probably consider getting another one!

    Oh, as for the battery, I replaced mine back in May 2005. It still seemed fine, but the car was 5 1/2 years old by that time, and I was about to take it on a long trip, so I didn't want to chance it. I had a hell of a time replacing it, and swore that by time it needed replacing again, I'd either be rid of the car, or break down and just pay someone to do it! :sick: Admittedly though, it took me awhile to figure out how to get to the battery, so I wasted a lot of time messing around with it. So the second time around might not be as bad.
  • james234james234 Member Posts: 7
    the radio display does not light,radio does not work, but on the bass & treb buttons , the light in the buttons constantly blink. i ck the fuses , i have no clue. pls-help, thx, james
  • bobe4bobe4 Member Posts: 12
    I am with you. I love my Intrepid and if they still made the Intrepid in the style of the 2000 I would have bought one last year. My 2000 has about 156K and is running great. I sometimes wish I had upgraded to a 2004 before they quit the line.
    Not being an adventuresome person I had my battery replaced a year or so ago at $45 for the labor.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    Rear brakes were a cinch. Couple bolts for the calipers, tapped the rotors and they came right off. I was worried about the drum brake shoes holding back the drums, but no problems there. I did not have a set of shoes to replace them with so I was glad I did not have to do anything other than clean them with a little brake spray. Rotors were about $40 each, pads were $30. Cheap enough. If you did the fronts ....the rears are even easier!
    Battery was not really bad-experience from the first time was key. Did not waste any time messing around, just took off the air filter housing to start with. Then everything is right there. Battery still comes out the wheel well.
    I am checking other sites to see about the door. Should be simple, but as all the fastners are hidden a little advance know how will prevent having to replace clips etc...
    I test drove a charger some time back. I was a base unit with the 2.7. Nice enough car, not as roomy, but seemed to handle and ride well. Rear wheel drive is the killer for me. My wife drives the car more than I do and would not deal with it well. I do not want to redo the snow tires and weight in the trunk thing from all those years ago. AWD just uses too much gas for me, so that is out too.
    We are going to keep this car as long as its practical to do so.
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    "I've never had a door panel off, but if you do find out how to take yours off, please post it here!"

    Andre, I've had both driver and passenger side panels off to fix the broken window clip. Things I learned: there are a number of Phillips head screws holding the panel on in hidden places. One these are loose, it comes off, but then you need to disconnect the electrical plugs that fit into the door. Really not a bad job. :shades:
    Ed
  • warlock690warlock690 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 97 3.3 dodge intrepid and the problem i have is that it always shuts down after it warms up? i changed the shutdown relay as well as the fuel relay and the coilpack, so now it still does shutdown after it warms up, i dont get it? could it be the fuel pump or something else, i checked the fuel pump to see if it was working and it seems so, well can anybody help me? my email is ilovebigred@hotmail.com. email anytime, thank you.......me :sick:
  • eclipse_stormeclipse_storm Member Posts: 1
    OK, Here goes... my car is past due on both inspection and registration. keeping that in mind, i had to replace the MAP sensor due to check engine light. While i had everything apart cleaning the throtle body, i chose to disconnect the battery and clean the terminals so i could get rid of the annoying pulse i was getting with all my lights. After the new muffler, and parts, i knew the vehicle had to be ran for an unknown time before inspection so i put the car on stands and ran it for 102 miles. Took it to get an inspection and still failed due to the battery being disconnected. So my question is this, What if any is the series of events to reset the pc so i can pass inspection? or do you know of a fun little helicopter ride i can take my car on and drop it over the falls?

    :confuse:
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    Will it restart after it shuts down?
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    What state do you live in? If your talking about resetting the codes it can be done at any Autozone for free. They will come out and hook hook up the OBDII code reader it has an erase button.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    I have a 99 Intrepid and I had to recharge the battery before going for my inspection. The inspector told me that all codes are lost when the battery is disconnected or recharged, It failed! He told me to drive it for a week and come back. I did (without disconnecting or recharging) I then passed.
  • chadg21988chadg21988 Member Posts: 1
    My power steering isnt working, i have enough power steering fluid in there, but its kinda difficult to turn the steering wheel when im moving any slower than 37MPH, it works just fine anytime I'm going faster than that (37 MPH). If theres anyone out there that has a solution please tell me something. Keep in mind I have a 1998 Intrepid. Thanks.
  • chimpawoochimpawoo Member Posts: 5
    I was warming my car up as the temp had dropped from say 50 down below 20 outside and gettin ready to leave. I pulled out of the drive way made it about 2 and a half blocks when my car suddenly shuts off. The lights radio etc is still there no engine running now and it was in gear. Now the car wont start. I have checked the relays for fuel pump and asd and they seem to be fine, when cranking rpm's show up on the tach (supposidly tells if cam/crank sensor is working?) what i want to know is what is more likely the issue at hand... if its the fuel pump can anyone describe the sound i should be hearing when it is charging ? because i replaced the fuel filter so the line should have been drained so i would expect to hear it charge it up and what not or is it more likely a timing issue... it will try and turn over and every now and then kick for a second but no long er than that any suggestions/help advice would be most welcomed and appreciated
  • chimpawoochimpawoo Member Posts: 5
    Ok so i have replaced fuel filter checked alternator replaced fuel pump swapped out relays. The car acts like it wants to start but will not start and run... it will rev to about 500 rpm in one attempt and just not run... anybody have any idea of possible things i can look for? if it were the timing belt what would i want to look for or listen for? if its ignition issues say spark what would i look for or listen for any help please
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    I have had the same problem with my 99. Dealer replaced Cam or crank position sensor can't remember which. Car stars and runs fine now.
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