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'96 Intrepid - getting codes 12 & 42. Have checked harnesses and battery cables and all seems fine. When I turn the key to run I get no warning lights at all, however car will start and run. After a few miles all gauges and warning lights suddenly come on. Will the MFI relay cause this intermittent problem?
Thanks,
RP
achance01, my Trep had the flickering light problem, and oddly enough, it was right around 87,000 miles! Does yours only come on once the car is fully warmed up, and only at idle? Such as when you're sitting in traffic, or stopped at a traffic light? That's what mine did, and because it only did it at low rpm situations like that, I thought there was something serious wrong. However, there is a TSB out for the fix...basically what 93taurus described. When they fixed mine, it was free of charge, but I don't know how far back they'll honor a TSB.
As for the 2.7, it can be prone to failure, but every mechanic I've ever talked to said that it's usually abuse or neglect that does it. Stuff like letting the oil get too low, or waiting too long to change it.
NUMBER: 08-36-99
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: Oct. 15, 1999
SUBJECT:
Engine Oil Pressure Light Flicker
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves adding a terminal/wire/vent to the oil pressure switch connector.
MODELS:
1998 - 1999 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid
NOTE :THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A 2.7L ENGINE.
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
With a hot engine the oil pressure light may be on or flicker on at idle.
DIAGNOSIS:
Verify engine oil pressure as described on page 9-21 of the 1999 Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M service manual (Publication No. 81-270-9140). If engine oil pressure is within specification perform the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
1 05017800AA Wire Terminal/Vent
REPAIR PROCEDURE:
1. Raise vehicle on a suitable hoist.
2. Remove engine oil pressure switch connector from switch.
3. Remove sealing dart from the empty cavity at the rear of the connector.
4. Pull terminal locking ring outward from front (switch) side of connector to gain access to terminal locking tabs.
5. Install wire terminal/vent, p/n 05017800AA, in place of the removed sealing dart. Slide locking ring back into place.
6. Attach the connector back on the oil pressure switch.
7. Spot tape the wire/vent to follow the harness towards the top of the engine compartment.
This TSB says it only affects 1998-99 models, but it was also issued in 1999, so needless to say, the problem wasn't fixed by 2000! Anyway, print the above info out, and give it to your mechanic, and that should be a good starting point. Also, just a word of warning. If there's anything serious wrong with your 2.7, you might be better off just getting rid of the car and finding something else. The 2.7 is a fine engine when it's working, but when it breaks, it can be horribly expensive to fix. I've heard that if a 2.7 engine blows, it's actually cheaper to have a 3.2/3.5 engine swapped in! And Intrepids don't have very good resale value, so don't sink a ton of money into the car unless you truly, truly love it.
I like my 2000 Intrepid, but have to admit that, at 142,500 miles, if the engine fried or the transmission shredded, I'd drop it like a hot rock.
What you are describing is the same thing I have been fighting with. With my problem after awhile, everything works. Have you found the problem?
I took mine to a dealer because no one else would touch it. They said it could be one of two things. The instrument cluster or the transmission control modual. I am a mechanic, their troubleshooting consists of replace components at your expense. I tried the module and it did not work. I just cant seem to pay $325.00 for a new display. I think it's the body controll module since my cruse controll does not work either. Let me know what you think.
Paul
I've heard that the 3.5, while OHC, is actually based on the older 3.3/3.8 pushrod engine. So I guess it's possible that some things like the transmission bolt pattern, engine mounts, etc might be similar.
Insert key into ingnition switch and turn to Run. Instrument panel does not ellimunate. Start engine. All gages on the panel are not functioning.
Then all of a sudden evertything works. As I mentioned this before its intermitent.
If I attemp to drive while tha panel is not working the tranjsmission will not shift out of 1st gear.
I have had the transmission modual replaced per the dealer. Then they siad to replace the Circuit board on the instrument panel. I really think its something else since the panel circiuit board has no switches to turn on. I have the manual and I am now looking at the body control module. This little jem controls all the instrument panels functions. Oh I forgot to mention that the cruse control is also not work. This is also controlled by the BCM.
Any one else having this problem and figuree it out?
Hope this helps.
I had trouble with my fuel gage and pump because it sat for a long time. I had to take th pump out of the tank and apply 12V dc to the pins and it started to work. Then I had to remove the little sensor, the ones with the copper looking arms and bend them just enough to make better contact. That fixed it. So I know what your going through. I actually have the factory manual I purchased when I oredered my car. If you need any other help just drop me a line. @ Paul14@cox.net. Oh one tip to check that the fuel pump is working is , when to turn the key to start position, you should hear the pump come on then turn off. Its very fast and you may want to have some one near the tank to listen.
Yeah, I tried to hear the pump kick in and didn't hear anything. Got the new fuel pump in the car Thursday... runs great! My son is so thrilled Mom don't have to take him to & from school and work...LOL I must say Mom is thrilled that I'll go back to 1 tank of fuel a week vs 2...YAY!!!!! Thanks again! Hope you had a nice Thanksgiving! I saved 140.00 buying the fuel pump on ebay & I saved the sellers store to my favorites for future parts..... Did you get your car fixed yet?
seems wors when you first start the car up i have lots of heat if any one has any ideas PLEASE help me . thank you David it is a 1994 intrepid
dave.
Thanks, Vikki
The car still runs very well.......wish we could buy a new one!!
I had the mechanic do my rear pads around 51,000 miles, and again around 102,000 miles, so if I keep up that rate, I guess I'll need them again around 150-155,000 miles. I'm at around 144K now, and don't really drive like I used to, so that's at least a year off.
I've never had a door panel off, but if you do find out how to take yours off, please post it here! The power lock in the left rear door of my car went bad. It'll lock okay, but won't unlock. I just never bothered to mess with it, because it's not that often I use the back seat of the car. I'm a bit leery of trying to mess with it myself, but one of my friends said he could probably do it.
Overall, I've been happy with the car. I do get bored with it from time to time, but whenever I look at what's out there now, there's not really anything that excites me...at least not in the same price range that my Intrepid originally was.
If Chrysler was still building the Intrepid, I would probably consider getting another one!
Oh, as for the battery, I replaced mine back in May 2005. It still seemed fine, but the car was 5 1/2 years old by that time, and I was about to take it on a long trip, so I didn't want to chance it. I had a hell of a time replacing it, and swore that by time it needed replacing again, I'd either be rid of the car, or break down and just pay someone to do it! :sick: Admittedly though, it took me awhile to figure out how to get to the battery, so I wasted a lot of time messing around with it. So the second time around might not be as bad.
Not being an adventuresome person I had my battery replaced a year or so ago at $45 for the labor.
Battery was not really bad-experience from the first time was key. Did not waste any time messing around, just took off the air filter housing to start with. Then everything is right there. Battery still comes out the wheel well.
I am checking other sites to see about the door. Should be simple, but as all the fastners are hidden a little advance know how will prevent having to replace clips etc...
I test drove a charger some time back. I was a base unit with the 2.7. Nice enough car, not as roomy, but seemed to handle and ride well. Rear wheel drive is the killer for me. My wife drives the car more than I do and would not deal with it well. I do not want to redo the snow tires and weight in the trunk thing from all those years ago. AWD just uses too much gas for me, so that is out too.
We are going to keep this car as long as its practical to do so.
Andre, I've had both driver and passenger side panels off to fix the broken window clip. Things I learned: there are a number of Phillips head screws holding the panel on in hidden places. One these are loose, it comes off, but then you need to disconnect the electrical plugs that fit into the door. Really not a bad job. :shades:
Ed
:confuse: