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Dodge Intrepid

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  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    My mechanic replaced both of those sensors on my 2000 Intrepid about a year ago. The car started stalling out at random. At first it was pretty infrequent, and sometimes, if I caught it in time, just letting off the gas pedal and feathering it a bit would stop it. Someone in this forum (I'm too lazy to look it up now, heck it could've been you) mentioned that the problem would probably only get more frequent with time, and eventually the car wouldn't re-start at all. And sure enough, it did!

    It ended up costing around $520 or so to replace both sensors, and the car has been fine ever since. Well, for the most part. The a/c compressor seized up the other week, and ended up sending shrapnel throughout the entire system. Cost around $1300 total to fix. But at least I'm ready for summer now! :shades:
  • 12pops1212pops12 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone used a miller tool to refill the coolant. it says on the overflow jug to use one , it is impossible to fill without this tool .
    where can i get one and how does it work ?
  • chimpawoochimpawoo Member Posts: 5
    I replaced the cam position sensor for 46 bucks, the car will start and run now BUT....

    Ok i have a new issue apparently, there is a strange noise coming from below the timing belt cover around the pulley... its a rather disturbing noise only wayi can describe it is well it sounds like belts slipping but i checked the belts and they should not be slipping for any reason... but thats the best way i can explain the noise... also noticed after i turned the car off (its been about 2 weeks + of trying diff things to start it without success) once i turned the car off gasoline was foggin out the exhaust pipe like the engine had been super flooded i dont know if and how the two can be related but it made me think coolant at first but then i realized the engine was no where near hot enough to have coolant coming out( i just literally got it started heard the noise turned it off)

    Anybody have any idea what can make funky rubber slipping not squeeking high pitched but a low pitched kinda rubber squeak?
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    I just fill up the resivior on my 99 and then start the car once the thermostat opens squeeze the upper radiator hose to force out air pockets
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    timing chain tensioner?
  • 12pops1212pops12 Member Posts: 2
    I found out that the intrepid overflow bottle has a 3" section where the cap fits on and the rest of the tank is sealed and is used for the purpose of mountig the tab to mount the bottle to the strut tower. Had me going.. It says on the tank itself to use a miller tool to refill...I called 2 dealers and they never heard of a miller tool...Makes you wonder why they want $90. per hour to diagnose your car !!!! They don't know the answers either and... just answer wanted $9 to tell me this !!!!! I talked to my radiator shop guy and he just laughed...takes all kinds to rip you off...
  • tomjch19tomjch19 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get an answer to your question chadg? I have the same problem.
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    Mine is a 99 so there may be a difference but think about it. The section the cap fits onto has to flow into the rest of the system. If it didnt there would be no need for a pressurized cap, actually you wouldnt need a cap at all.

    Also dodge is really bad about selling specialized tools most dealerships have just refused to sell them to me. Try this site you may find what you are looking for

    http://www.millerspecialtools.spx.com/Main.aspx
  • bvreelandbvreeland Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone - new to this site. I have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid. The fascia and rear bumper needs repainting. I've done this the past two years using Dodge factory basecoat and clearcoat - results have not been good. Can anyone suggest the proper method for painting these TPO surfaces, i.e. surface preparation, adhesion promoters, primer, applying basecoat and clear coat? Thanks!

    Bill Vreeland
    Powell, Ohio
  • chimpawoochimpawoo Member Posts: 5
    Ok I could really use some knowledge of how to get into my timing case... it appears i have to remove the c/s pulley now i cant find any easy to do it but once i started tryin to do so the damn thing started bubbling as if there were some sort of pressurized liquid in there... supposidly when my cam sensor went bad it screwed up somethin in the timing sproket or something so i could really use to get in there to inspect things but i am uncertain of what the hell im doing :-D anybody its a 97 3.5 liter intrepid i just wana peek at things or is it ok to remove the c/s pulley and if so is there anything i need to do before re mounting things... i have a good idea of how to remove the timing belt *(pain in the [non-permissible content removed] from my understanding) but i need to get in there to see the whole shabang any help would be greatly appreciated
  • govergover Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 dodge intrepid, the driver side interior door handle broke, the end plastic tips broke that connect to the metal rod that open the door from within. Can the door handle be replaced or is it a one piece unit with the door panel? If it can be replace how do you take the handle off?
  • martmccmartmcc Member Posts: 1
    have 2000 intrep rt getting vibration when car is under load at hiway speed and when it dips the suspenction any clue
  • rlp50rlp50 Member Posts: 13
    Two things to check; It could be a bad tire or one that is either out of balance or has thrown a wheel weight. Secondly, check the inner tierods. They meet dead center of the firewall. Check to see if the bushing has worn on either or both of the ends. If worn badly you will be able to move it around on the mounting bolt. Usually when the inners go the outers need replacing too. Worn bushings will cause a wobble or vibration, especially when hitting a dip or bump in the road.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    I let a friend borrow my 2000 Intrepid 2.7 last week, and he said the oil pressure light started flickering. I didn't have time to mess with it, so I just parked it until I could get to it. Today, I drove it to work, to see how it did, and it seemed fine. But then I drove a bit around lunch time, and did start to notice a very slight, intermittent flickering. Could that just be the sending unit starting to go, or a sensor or something?

    I checked the oil and it's full. Also, the car sounds fine. About 5 1/2 years ago, it pulled a stunt where the pressure light would come on at idle, once fully warmed up, such as sitting at a traffic light, but that was fixed with a TSB. That time, the sending unit was fine, but there was some issue with the wiring just getting too hot and making the light come on. This time around, the light seems to come on at random, and it's very faint, and easy to miss during the daytime. It was dark when my friend saw the light come on, so it was probably more noticeable.

    So, any ideas? Sending unit, most likely?
  • james234james234 Member Posts: 7
    my 1998 did the same thing it was inner tie rod, passenger side
  • slimmer455slimmer455 Member Posts: 1
    just wondering when replacing serpentine belts on intrepid 2002 2.7 do i need to take of top radiator brace to easily access belts or tough it out and work in cramped places?any advice will help thanks
  • lisalolisalo Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me how I can determine if our 1996 Dodge Intrepid is "vmode" or not? It is a 3.5L 24 valve with an automatic transmission. We are looking at the gas mileage to see if it is "clunker" qualified and the vmode is 18 miles to the gallon - the other 3.5L model is 19 miles to the gallon - the difference between qualifying or not! Any help would be appreciated - we have all of the original owner's manuals but I can't find any indication. Thanks!
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    I looked up "VMODE" on the EPA website, and got this description...

    "User-Selectable Continuously Variable Transmission"

    I think that might be a fancy term for the AutoStick, which was an automatic that was designed to be shifted like a manual if you so chose. It still had safety features in it to keep you from shifting into the wrong gear at too high of a speed, but it was more flexible than the regular automatic.

    I had always thought that all 3.5's used the autostick, but maybe not?
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    Yes it comes off, its easy probably about 10 bolts and 10 minutes
  • bruce05mubruce05mu Member Posts: 1
    At the end of 2006 my 03 intrepid's engine lost all compression and died while on the freeway. A gasket blew due to overheating. The overheating was due to the water pump going out. Luckily, I was still under warranty. I took the car to the certified dodge dealership for repair. The supposibly were waiting for an engine to come in for my vehicle for a month! The excuse they gave me was " The 3.5 liter engines are in high demand" I took his word for it. I knew that the 3.5's they use in intrepids they also use in the 300c's, 300m's,and magnums.
    it didnt hurt me too much to not have my vehicle for that long cuz i had work durning that month out of state.
    I just felt i should share my long awaited engine experience.
  • hildy2hildy2 Member Posts: 2
    just aquired a 94 intrepid es (granny car) w/57,000 mi., problems is when cooling fans kick on they run for about 1 min. and then blow fuse. i replaced both fan relays just for good measure. when i got it the fuse was blown when i checked it over now gotta find out whats doing it,any ideas? HILDY
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    there is a short circuit somewhere. Check the wires to the fans to see if there is insulation missing and shorting it out. Otherwise the short may be in one of the fan motors itself.
  • ebvbebvb Member Posts: 2
    We too have a 1996 Intrepid with the 3.5 engine (not the ES). We were hoping to use the cash for clunkers as well, but as the other post pointed out, the VMODE transmission (the one you can manually shift) is the one that qualifies and the regular automatic transmission does not. This was confirmed to us by a local VW dealer where we were looking at the new TDI's. I don't think he would give us wrong information as he is losing a sale...

    Bad news for both of us :( .
  • jackiemcqjackiemcq Member Posts: 1
    Hi Lisalo, I think your dealer made a mistake. If you go to the government website: http://www.fueleconomy.gov

    it's the VMODE, the manually selectable tranny that does NOT qualify;

    Fuel Type Regular
    Engine Size 3.5 L
    Cylinders 6
    Transmission Automatic 4-spd
    Drive Front-Wheel Drive
    Options (FFS), VMODE CLKUP
    Vehicle Category Passenger Car
    Combined MPG 19

    The regular computer controlled transmission does:

    Fuel Type Regular
    Engine Size 3.5 L
    Cylinders 6
    Transmission Automatic 4-spd
    Drive Front-Wheel Drive
    Options (FFS), CLKUP
    Vehicle Category Passenger Car
    Combined MPG 18
    Qualifies for CARS? Yes. You may qualify for the CARS program.

    Hope that helps! Hope I'm right! :blush:
  • rnittanyrnittany Member Posts: 11
    I still have the original sticker from our Intrepid and something of interest is that the AutoStick is listed as Optional Equipment, not as a part of the base model.

    As such - I'm not certain that the fact that the car has AutoStick shows up in the VIN number (does anyone out there know for sure??). I'd just go the the dealer and give them the title and ask them if it will qualify for Cash for Clunkers. They should be able to pull up the 18 MPG car from the fueleconomy.gov site.

    If they ask if you have something called VMODE - just claim ignorance! If they can't tell by the VIN, then no one up the line will be able to tell either - and since the car gets crushed ....

    Also - I believe that the VMODE model was changed from 18 to 19 MPG over the weekend - last week I either didn't see it listed or it was listed as 18 MPG when I did the initial research (or I just plain missed it). Apparently several hundred cars had their EPA mileage changed between the 24th and the 27th to disqualify them from the program.
  • rnittanyrnittany Member Posts: 11
    Found this on another site so can't vouch for it's accuracy

    The discussion here is what MPG is your car rated- here.

    Tags: VMODE CLKUP

    After calling multiple organizations, I determined there are three areas for the automatic shifter. The one ON THE steering column in 19mpg. The one in the center console is 19 MPG ONLY IF IT GOES UP AND DOWN. If you can go UP DOWN AND LEFT RIGHT (at the bottom) it IS the 18mpg version.

    No way to fake it thru guys, that's called fraud and you'll get called on it later.

    Also - I don't know if the AutoStick feature shows up in the VIN number as it is listed on the window sticker as Optional Equipment, so don't know if there is any way to be certain that you car does not qualify
  • ricemaroniricemaroni Member Posts: 1
    Didn't know this site existed; delighted to be here. Own a 2000 Intrepid, 148,000 miles...great vehicle! Purchased it 2 years ago with 116,000 miles....very little problems.....heard about engine sludge problems with other Intrepids, and noticed my oil at change time was black after 3000 miles....so I went to a Fram "High Mileage" oil filter, made for vehicles with over 75,000 engine miles.... Made for helping to clean dirty engines by time releasing a gel into the oil when flowing thru the filter. After using consistently during my first year, the oil became a lot cleaner at change intervals, and then I bumped my changes up to 4500 miles, and still "clean" oil.....good stuff! Just thought I'd share that.
    People have had problems with Intrepids. They require religious maintenance. But if you do, as did the previous owner of my car, they will not only last, but continue to perform as well. I get 30 mpg hiway, 23 city. :)
  • hildy2hildy2 Member Posts: 2
    I recently aquired a 57,000 mi intrepid (granny car) and the engine runs great,i changed the oil right away because the car had been sitting for about a year so i switched to PENNZOIL PLATINUM synthetic 10-30 which is not to badly priced. its a full synthetic and you can get it at wal-mart in a 5qt. container for 20.00! but if you have a 3.5 you need 6qt. so you gotta get a single too,still 25.00 for full synthetic is a good price and sometimes they have it on sale. also i noticed the engine runs a little cooler with this oil.

    HILDY
  • rdr3rdr3 Member Posts: 2
    I too have wasted untold hours on finding out what this VMODE crap is. If it is indeed also called the "AutoStick," according to my 1997 Intrepid manual (pg. 109-110 for anyone who still has theirs) the VMODE can be found on both the center console AND on the column. However, this does not necessarily mean (again, according to the manual) that if your car as the shift on the column that it is the 19 mpg Intrepid. The shift on the column is considered having an auto stick when it looks like this:

    Autostick
    P R N D 1 2 3 4

    (Sorry but I'm no graphic artist!) My column shift does NOT have the above (Just has P R N D 3) so according to the manual I do not have the VMODE, and thus have the 18 mpg car, which contradicts your info (not ragging on you, just letting you know what I've found).

    As far as the center console goes, the manual states:
    The autostick position is just below the Overdrive Position and is identified by the A/S symbol.
    Imagine the 'graphic' below as the template that sits next to your gear shift in the center console:

    P

    R

    N

    D

    A/S

    - Autostick +

    So I would assume this is the console with the VMODE. Thus, it goes left to right and is the 19 mpg. car.

    I hope this didn't muddle things further...(the funniest thing is that I don't think this car EVER got 18mpg, even on a Kansas highway).

    If you would like me to scan a pic of this page & attach it as an email I would be glad to. Reply to this message w/your address and I'll try to get to it ASAP.
  • ebvbebvb Member Posts: 2
    The VMODE is the one that qualifies...

    Go to cars.gov or fueleconomy.gov.
  • rdr3rdr3 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry, it DOES NOT QUALIFY: (Info accessed at 1:22 PM, August 4, 2009)
    Info from web site copied DIRECTLY below: http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/CarsResult1.jsp?column=1&id=13626

    Select Your Trade-in Vehicle


    Model Year: 1997

    Make: Dodge

    Model: Intrepid


    Automatic 4-spd, 6 cyl, 3.5 L, Regular Gasoline, (FFS) , VMODE CLKUP




    Regular
    Engine Size 3.5 L
    Cylinders 6
    Transmission Automatic 4-spd
    Drive Front-Wheel Drive
    Options (FFS), VMODE CLKUP
    Vehicle Category Passenger Car
    Combined MPG 19
    Qualifies for CARS? No. Your trade-in must have a Combined MPG rating of 18 MPG or less to qualify.
  • rcbtvlrcbtvl Member Posts: 1
    So VMODE makes it qualify for 1996 but makes it not qualify for 1997? Can anyone make sense of this?
    Thanks
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    We have a discussion devoted to questions like this. You might try posting there.

    Cash for Clunkers-Does it work for you?
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    Rice: Do you have a 2.7L or 3.2L? I have a 1999 3.2. I bought it new. Now with 142,000 miles. 3000 miles (religiously) oil changes and about every 25000 transmission fluid and filter changes (make sure they use ATF4!). I've been using Purolator Pure One filters only.

    Highway mileage is great on these cars.
  • blazer6973547blazer6973547 Member Posts: 24
    just bought another used intrepid with a 2.7...why i dont know but anyway after adding or changing oil, the 2.7's are touchy on the oil level...half quart over or under will trigger the light at idle and a tiny touch of gas will turn it off...check oil, ill bet you have to add a quart or drain one
  • blazer6973547blazer6973547 Member Posts: 24
    1st was a 98 2.7 burned oil and after 10k got an intermediate knock at idle, (garage didnt know what was cause a knock to come and go) now i have a 2001 and is starting to burn oil, i know there is top end trouble and sludge with these motors but im wondering if anybody knew exactly what is going on cuz im willing to bet that in 10k i will get that knock in this motor too... just incase i picked up a 98 for parts (good motor) but wondering if a 98 will fit a 2001, i think there is a bit of screwing around with the EGR but not sure...ANY COMMENTS PLEASE!!!!
  • blazer6973547blazer6973547 Member Posts: 24
    you probably got the car painted by now but just thought id add... i used a TPO adhesion promoter then as soon as it was tacky sprayed on the match color paint (made by napa and peridot sales where im to) then 2 clear coats and i cant tell the difference in the rest of the car
  • intrepid0intrepid0 Member Posts: 1
    Good Morning Everyone!!!!!!!
    I have a 2002 Intrepid 2.7 with 113000 miles and the car runs fairly well. I am now starting to encounter some of the problems that i have been reading here. I am experiencing the engine oil light that is flickering when I am idol. I checked the oil stick and the oil level was normal but my check engine light came on.
    I looked up the codes on my check engine light and I got the following: P0440&P0441 now I replaced the purge solenoid but someone told me I have a leak somewhere in the evap system.... I guess when it rains it pours need help!!!!!!!!!!Now would the TSB cover the oil light flickering problem?
    Help Anyone!!!!!!
  • roger924roger924 Member Posts: 40
    Lots of people complain about oil sludge build up and timing chain tensioner failure. If it was me I would drain the oil replace it with transmission fluid start the car and let it idle for awhile. then drian the transmission fluid change the filter and fill with oil. Oil sludge can clog passage ways and reduce oil pressure.

    As for the other issues I am not sure.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    November 6 marked the 10 year anniversary of the day I bought my '00 Trep. 11/6/99. 150,000 miles and still running well. 10 more years, and I can get historic tags for it here in Maryland!
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    "November 6 marked the 10 year anniversary of the day I bought my '00 Trep. 11/6/99. 150,000 miles and still running well. 10 more years, and I can get historic tags for it here in Maryland!"

    I am coming up on the 11th anniversary of my '99 ES. Also about 150,000 miles. The only serious repair in all that time has been AC system.

    Enjoy.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    congratulations. Coming up on 10 years as well I think it is sometime Jan or Feb next year for us. This really has been a great car for us, Just a few minor repairs....trans speed sensors, oil sender harness-not at all bad for almost 95000 miles. All we have really done is the tires and brakes a couple times. Car now needs front brakes done again, the drivers side power door lock module, and possibly struts. I am debating putting the money into it, the car is not really worth anything. Also somewhat concerned with my wife driving a 10 year old car......But there is not really anything we have seen that compares well or offers an attractive alternative. Buick Lucerne??Lacrosse?? a Sable or a Taurus? Certainly not a Malibu or Impala!! We keep hopping back in our old Dodge and remarking how comfortable and spacious it is. Still runs and rides well too.
    Too bad we cannot buy a new one again.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    Did you get the flickering oil pressure light fixed? Sensor?
  • garrison16garrison16 Member Posts: 28
    I feel the same way. I have a 1998 Concorde with 84000 miles. It is a great car.
    Last Spring the power steering lines were leaking. The leak was getting worse.
    I could not find a new car that I liked. I then found a 2002 Intrepid with 6300 miles
    which I bought. I also had the Concorde's power steering lines replaced and still
    enjoy it.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    Oh, yeah, I forgot all about that oil pressure issue. Yeah, it was just a switch or sending unit or something like that. Cost $176 to fix.

    The only truly major repair I had was early this year, when I blew up the a/c compressor. Totally my fault, as the system had a slow leak in it and I knew it. I was trying to nurse it through the winter, and was planning on fixing it once it got warm again. Unfortunately, one day in February when I was running the defroster, the compressor seized up, shredded, and did a good little number on the whole system. Cost $1300 to fix.

    There really isn't anything new out there that excites me, at least, not in my price range. I do like the Pontiac G8, but don't want to pay that kind of money for a new car. At this point, I'm probably going to drive the Trep until something catastrophic goes on it. I also like the Altima and the new Ford Fusion, but I'd view either one as a bit of a step down from the Intrepid. I wish Chrysler had followed up the Intrepid/Concorde with a good replacement. The 300 and Charger are great, if you want to go all-out and get a Hemi, but for more everyday-type cars, I'm just not that wow'ed. Plus, with the Intrepid, the 2.7 is actually decent, but with the 300/Charger, they almost require the 3.5 if you want the thing to get out of its own way.
  • garrison16garrison16 Member Posts: 28
    Before buying the 2002 Intrepid last June I test drove a Chrysler 300 with a 2.7
    several times. It was not a bad car, just smaller. When traveling I like the interior
    room and additional trunk space of the Concorde/Intrepid. As you said The 300 and
    Charger are great, I did also test drive a 300 hemi. It was much quieter, faster, and
    had a nicer interior. A few years ago I drove a Charger with a 3.5. I thought that it
    was a nice car.
  • intrepidroseintrepidrose Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 98 intrepid 6cyl 2.7l, it had been sitting for a year because of a computer problem, i had the computer and battery replaced by a licenced mechanic, and they put a new inspection on it, i drove it for 10 minutes and instantly the signal lights stopped working, so we changed the fuse and they worked fine...then half an hour later the speedometer stopped working , and the PRNDL display wasnt working, we changed those fuses and it fixed that problem, then this evening the rear tail lights wouldnt work at all and we cant figure out what fuse it is...then to top it all off the battery light has come on, just like it was before i replaced the computer...Am I going to have to replace the computer again? Why do all these fuses keep malfunctioning?
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    I found a 2000 Intrepid ES for sale locally, in Maryland. Figured I'd post it here, since I brought it up originally in a GM forum! The ad mentions a 2.7, but the under-hood pic is showing a 3.2.

    I'm actually kinda tempted by this car! It's not often, it seems, that a nicer Intrepid shows up on the used car lots anymore. Usually they're the base model like what I have. I guess it seems silly to replace a 10 year old Intrepid with another 10 year old Intrepid, but it does look like a nice one. Plus, it has about half the miles that mine does.
  • garrison16garrison16 Member Posts: 28
    In March of 1995 I bought a 1998 Chrysler Concorde LXI with a 3.2 liter engine. I
    test drove it briefly and loved it. It had just under 39000 miles. I was afraid that if I
    waited someone else would but it. It now has 84000 miles. Last March When I
    brought the car to be inspected I found that It had a power steering leak. It needed new power steering lines. I was told
    it was a 6 hour repair plus parts. I decided to buy a different car. Could not find
    what I wanted. In June I bought a base 2002 Intrepid with 6300 miles with a 2.7 liter
    engine. When I picked up the Intrepid I left the Concorde to be repaired. While the
    Intrepid with the 2.7 is a nice car, The Concorde with the 3.2 is much nicer. It is
    not only much faster but must be sprung differently as it rides nicer.

    You might want to take the 2000 Intrepid with the 3.2 for a test drive
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 25,681
    Well, I just got some extra incentive to take that green Intrepid ES for a test drive. Tonite, someone pulled a hit-and-run on my Trep in a restaurant parking lot. Driver's side fender and headlight are smashed...headlight's just sitting there, held on only by the wires to the lights in back. Bumper fascia's hanging loose. And I'm guessing something electronic got snagged as well, because the idiot lights for the battery and Service Engine Soon are both on. Passenger side headlight/turn signal doesn't work, either, although both taillights, brakelights, and rear signals work.

    It actually doesn't look THAT bad, but somehow I got a feeling the poor gal's totaled. It really sucks to have the car make it 10 years, only to suffer a fate like this. :mad:
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