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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • gpeternggpeterng Member Posts: 1
    I had my battery replaced and now the lights on the Heating and A/C panel flash like light show. How do I fix this problem. I took it to a Chrysler Dealer and they told me that it would reset after 15 min and it did, but each time I restart the Van they start flashing again. Please Help. :confuse:

    Thanks.
    gpeterng
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    Here you go:

    #321 of 642 Re: AC/heating lights on dashboard [rebellady1964] by crackerjax May 30, 2005 (3:36 am)
    Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
    Replying to: rebellady1964 (May 15, 2005 5:22 am)

    I had the same problem and the Dodge House where I lived wanted 500 dollars to fix it! I found someone on the internet who helped me out and I pass this on to you and others to save you some big money as this you can do for free. Here is what you do:
    All you need to do is start your van. Then slide your temp lever all the way to full cold. Then turn the Mode Control to the one that sends air to your face only. Then turn the 'blower switch' to all the way to full. Now go to the leftmost three buttons. Press the top one (rear wiper on constant) and the bottom one (rear wiper washer fluid). Hold these two for a few seconds. Once the lights come on solid then begin to flash, you can let go. The AC will now calibrate. You will feel the air blow out of all the different zones at different intervals and see lights come on and go off. Then after a minute or two the top button you pressed will be slowly flashing. This means it has been completed. Press the last flashing button and you are done. Turn off the van and started it back up and see now you don't have those infernal blinking lights anymore! Hope this helps! Oh, be careful with the battery, it is very touchy on Dodge Caravans and can blow out any electrical thing so it is better to take the battery out and charge it and don't charge it directly. One guy mentioned it blew his on board computer just accidently touching the wrench and grounding the battery so be careful with the battery.
  • marine2marine2 Member Posts: 1,155
    Those of you with the older van with weak headlights. I wonder if it's the bulb and not the head light shield, like it was on my old Eagle Vision. The shield would cloud up and I also had weak lights coming from them. I got a plastic scratch remover and put it on. It took most of the discoloration off and improved the light coming from them.
  • rvnurse2brvnurse2b Member Posts: 1
    My husband tried to fix a fuel leak in our 1997 T&C. He did it ok, but then the tank and hoses, and seals and whatever went everywhere.
    Do they boobie trap these things so you have to bring them in to the dealership? He thought he found all the parts, but the fuel return seems to be missing a part and it is leaking profusely. It is not drivable. Chiltons and Autozone, as well as the dealership in town show no seals or anything on the diagrams. We don't know where to get the part, how much it will cost or if we can even fix it ourselves ( Gosh I hope so!) Do we have to buy a whole fuel system or something? Please help! :sick: :cry: We are trying to take a drive to New Mexico next week to see my grandfather before he dies, and we don't know if he will last longer than a week or two.
  • musikmeistermusikmeister Member Posts: 1
    My Grand Caravan just started ringing for low fuel on a full tank. How can i fix this problem.
    Thanks JP
  • ntbillntbill Member Posts: 20
    Is it new? Because I had this problem on my Honda Civic. The gauge was showing Full, but the light indicating an empty tank was on. In fact, the tank was near empty. The problem was with the gauge, it was jammed. My Civic was new and it was my second tank. After filling the tank at a gaz station, the problem never came back.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    The 1996-2000's were criticised for weak headlights even when brand new. Not that they have bothered us that much on our 1996-and on our 1996 the headlight lenses are just as clear as they were new.

    I have yet to figure out what people have done on their older vehicles to get the lenses so cloudy, are they driving a lot in dust storms in the desert Southwest, or are they misapplying rubbing compound or some other abrasive cleaner or solvent? Cloudy lenses have never been a problem in our vehicles.
  • sterrellsterrell Member Posts: 1
    The power steering on my 2001 DGC fails when the engine is cold. It happens in the first five minutes after starting, but after that it is fine. I brought it to the dealer, but they could not duplicate this. I am going to drop it off again, but this time will let it set overnight as this is when the problem consistently occurs. I was wondering if any other DGC owners have had similar problems.
  • jfgolf3jfgolf3 Member Posts: 15
    Should an EGR valve be replaced free under the extended emisions control warranty on a 2004 Caravan with 40,000 miles.
  • mrbizness1mrbizness1 Member Posts: 93
    The r/s headlamp on my 98 has started to cloud up just below the top edge. I use Mequires plastx on it every few months. Some people have wet sanded them. My left light is almost new looking which makes me think the damage is caused by sand being thrown into the lense especially during the winter months. I notice alot of Neons with very bad lights and wonder how they drive at night.
  • dds2dds2 Member Posts: 1
    Something similar happened with my 1997, turned out the battery was shorting out. The Mopar batteries were really bad!
  • funroadsfunroads Member Posts: 49
    jfgolf3: Could you post on what the symptom is that is has caused your EGR valve to need replacement?

    I have an '03 T&C 3.8 w/ 50K miles which is missing badly. I'm getting error codes P0300 (random misfires) and P1684 ("Driver 5 Line 4" - no idea what this means). Dealer wants to start by replacing plugs and wires. I'm about to do that myself but in reading around the internet I'm starting to suspect the EGR system.
  • jfgolf3jfgolf3 Member Posts: 15
    My Caravan always had a miss(stutter, hesitation,bad gas mileage, poor acceleration, no power)While under warranty, the dealer analized it may times and told me it was my imagination. Once it had 40,000 miles on it, it mysteriously needed plugs and wires($300)and then they replaced the egr valve($200). It seems to run ok now but it is too soon to tell. PS If your antifreeze is disapearing mysteriously, suspect a leaky head gasket.
  • jfgolf3jfgolf3 Member Posts: 15
    By the way, I just priced an egr valve on line and they cost $43.10. The dealer told me it was underneath the plenum(it isn't). It is held on by 2 bolts and connected to a flange by 2 more. There is also and electrical socket to disconnect which may cause your check engine light to come on. You might also need an egr valve gasket although I didn't get a new one for my $200.
  • funroadsfunroads Member Posts: 49
    Looking to confnirm the location of the egr... It appears to be on the back side of the throttle body just downstream from the butterfly valve. Is that correct?
  • jfgolf3jfgolf3 Member Posts: 15
    On my 3.3L, it is located on the left front the engine (as you view it from the front of the van), just above the alternator, it has a tube on top connecting it to the plenum.
  • cckittenscckittens Member Posts: 3
    Did you figure out what was wrong with your van? Mine does like a hard shift when driving and is slowly getting worse, and then today when I started it the tack and the speedometer would not even work. My Father thinks it may be the computer and may fix both problems. I hope you got yours fixed.
    Lisa
  • southlasouthla Member Posts: 2
    06 DC SXT
    Bought brand new. Dealer filled 20 gal. tank @ purchase. At 212 miles the gauge showed empty and the gas light came on. Stopped @ nearest station to fill up. Only took 11 gals. Went to dealer, they said no problem that it was the sending unit not calibrated. They ordered the part and called when it came in. Brought it in for the work. Picked it up after repairs and stopped on way home to fill it up so we could see how for we could go on tank of gas. Once again you can watch the gauge move as you go down the highway. Reached the 200 mile mark, light came on and gauge on empty. Fill it up and only takes 10 gals. If you stop the vehicle for a few minutes , the gauge will show accurate (assuming). But once you start driving for a few miles it starts to move down. We don't have 700 miles on the van yet, as it is not driven daily. This is very frustrating because you can't second guess the gauge and light when you are out on the interstate, possibly out of gas and stranded. Service Dept. says nothing is wrong with it and is normal. Has anyone heard of this problem?
  • arthurkingarthurking Member Posts: 9
    I also have a 06 DC SXT and have about 750 miles on it. I don't have a problem as what you described. Have you checked your overhead trip computer? It should tell you DTE(distance to empty) and it should give you a better idea when you should refill your tank.
    By the way, could you tell me if you will hear a chime when you apply your parking brake? My DC SXT will give me a chime occasionally(one of 5-10 times). But somebody in this forum told me I should always hear a chime when I apply parking brake. I brought my car to the dealer twice and they told me they couldn't find any problem and nothing is wrong. So I can fully understand your frustration cause both of us wish our brand new is perfect and worry-free. Well, I think I may have to live with it.
  • southlasouthla Member Posts: 2
    Our van doesn't have the overhead trip computer.
    Went out to check Park Brake for you. While vehicle is running and apply the Park Brake, it chimes one time. Tried it couple times with the same result. 1 chime will engine running.
  • gmhellmangmhellman Member Posts: 121
    vcheng, I gave a copy of your instructions to a friend with the same problem. She tried it and it worked, until she turned her van off and restarted it. The lights were flashing again. Can you please re post the instructions again? I am just wondering what you mean by the last flashing button? Thanks
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    ... means that the AC has failed the cooldown test. This may be due to a leaking evaporator core, that can cost upto $1000 to replace. However, this diagnosis must be confirmed before attempting repair. It can be as simple as a low gas charge, which is only $50-100.
  • funroadsfunroads Member Posts: 49
    Anyone know the torque specs for the 8 intake manifold gasket bolts on a 2003 3.8?

    Haynes manual for '96 -> '98 lists 105 ft/lbs - if anyone knows the 2003 specs it would be helpful.
  • gmhellmangmhellman Member Posts: 121
    Thanks I appreciate the speedy response, but why did this occur only after she changed her battery? Wouldn't have this occured even if the battery was good? Or is this just some horrible coincidence? I know that she is going ask these questions. The way you speak and are so quick with the answers leads me to beleive that you are a mechanic or somebody with engineering experience.
  • vchengvcheng Member Posts: 1,284
    The AC system can work with a slow leak for quite some time. When a battery is changed, recalibration is required, which is what fails the system for a cooldown test, and the leak is brought to attention.

    You can try one of those AC recharge kits, and see if the system can be coaxed to run for another year.

    Please post back as to what happens.
  • suegreene1suegreene1 Member Posts: 3
    I am new here. I am the second owner of this van with 191k miles of which I have only put on 20k in 5 years. I bought it to haul grkids and stuff. (Yes have put in 2 new reblt transmissions in these 5 yrs.) Runs great, love it. Then it started stalling. Drive about 20 miles, just dies, it says 'check gauges', which I know means fuel, oil or battery, all of which are fine. Sometimes it will restart, sometimes I have to wait about 30 minutes. Took to my mechanic, who has worked on it some - new computer a couple years ago - he cannot find anything wrong with it. He worked on it 5 days! It stalled for him when he left it idling. The good news is, he didn't charge me anything since he couldn't find the problem. The bad news is, I don't dare drive it. I know there have been postings about stalling, but I don't see any definitive solutions. Anyone with similar problems or solutions?? I have spent alot of money on this van. Oh, now the antilock brake light is on, which I guess means that needs work. And the button to open the rear hatch stopped working. Hmm. Anyone have any comments??? HELP! :confuse:
  • fxman1fxman1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Voyager that has 165000km on it. I bought it used 6 months ago. It has been working great but the other day I lost power. Even though the engine runs and revs fine there is a lack of power. The speedometer needle actually creeps up and sometimes go to the end of the scale 200kmph. Engine is not revving up. If I pull over it will allow me to pull away again but within 100 yds, it starts again.

    It is all right when it is cold for the first 3-4km.

    I disconnected the battery to see if that would reset anything because it almost seems electrical as opposed to mechanical. I checked the error code (ignition ON - OFF - ON - OFF - ON in 5 seconds) and get a 12 which tells me only that the battery had been disconnected.

    Twice shutting the engine off and re-starting then it worked. Now it makes no difference.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Which engine do you have? This report of a problem that takes 20 miles to happen, then self resolves with waiting and associated cool down, is truly an owner and mechanic's worst frustration because diagnostic tests are normal. You will be ahead if you make notes of tests and any work done in case you try another shop and can eliminate certain problems. My Haynes manual lists 7 sources of stalling: 1. Low idle speed, 2. Water in fuel or filter clogged, 3. Distributor components damp or damaged, 4. Faulty fuel system or emission control sensors, 5. Faulty emission system components, 6. Faulty or improperly gaped spark plugs or failing plug wires, 7. vacuum leak- carb/throttle body or intake manifold or vacuum hoses.
    I would start by checking preventive maintenance that is due or low cost like changing plugs, plug wires and fuel filter and PCV valve. Add an isopropyl alcohol fuel dryer to your gas. Add a fuel injector cleaner to your gas(assuming your engine has fuel injection and not a carburetor).
    A failing coil could malfunction when hot and recover with cooling. The best diagnosis for this would be to borrow or buy (about $40.00) a timing light and have someone show you how to use it so you could detect absence of ignition current to spark plugs at the time the engine fails to run. A timing light has two power wires with clamps that attach to the battery terminals, red to the positive terminal and black to the negative terminal. A third wire has a sensor that has a space through which a plug wire can go. When the engine is running or being turned by the starter, the light will flash if current travels through the plug wire being tested. If no flash, something is wrong in the ignition circuit from coil to distributor to wire to spark plug. Roy
  • miker3miker3 Member Posts: 2
    I'm new to the board, and I am impressed with the knowledge here, so maybe I can get some help.

    I have a 2000 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE, and the tailgate won't shut, it just bounces off the upright piece on the bottom where it shuts. When you open the tailgate and look at where it closes, there is a piece that looks like it should be out of the way so it can close. I believe it is a gold colored piece. I've tried to move that piece with a screw driver and have sprayed WD-40 on it in order to get it to move but to no avail. Has anyone had this problem before. I really want to try to fix it myself and save some money. I hope it's a simple fix

    Thanks
    Mike
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    have you tried using the key in the lock when the hatch is open? Cycle the key from locked to unlocked to see if that gold colored piece releases.
  • dixiepeepdixiepeep Member Posts: 3
    I tried to look at the a/c itself but unless it is written in words all this stuff looks the same to me. The earlier advice (on another site) told me the compressor should look like a big metal part with pipes coming out. well, it ALL looks like that to me. Where can I find a diagram of under the hood for this 96 Plymouth Voyager Minivan? Even a cartoon picture would help.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    There should be a serpentine belt routing diagram located somewhere under the hood. This will identify on the diagram where the AC compressor pulley is, which is where the compressor is also.

    I suggest you are going to have to get professional help in diagnosing and fixing your AC. AC systems are not all that user friendly for do it yourselfers to repair, and if you are so inexperienced you cannot identify the compressor, you likely will not be able to fix it either.
  • jcm35jcm35 Member Posts: 1
    3.8 motor, change plugs,wires,o rings and coil box.pulled wire off fuel inject no change still running rough.checked wire for break didn't see one. is there a gound or other thing i should check before buying a new computer?
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    I was the one who also had this code according to the dash readout. I went to the local library to look at the Chilton's manual abd wurubg diagrams for 2001 so that I could try to understand where the problem might be. It turns out that power for the computer doesn't go through any device such as a relay that might have failed. That left only a bad connection which, while possible, didn't seem all that likely.
    Interestingly, Chiltons didn't list P1684 as a valid code for 2001. I decided to let our local mechanic(a long time Chrysler mechanic) take a look while the van was in for a couple of other things.
    He called me back to say that the actual codes were evaporative in nature(one broken hose and another loose one) and that the dash readout doesn't read evaporative codes. Only a regular code reader will properly read these codes according to him. So, you might take it in and see what you mechanic's r code reader says and maybe it will be something simply like mine.
  • suegreene1suegreene1 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Roy, thanks for answering! You have given me things to work on that make sense. It is the 3.3 6cyl, fuel inj. I am going to start with the fuel filter and dryer and go from there. I really appreciate your thorough and easy to understand comments. (For now, I just drive it as far as the store and back. But it has put me in a bind for taking my gr.kids anywhere!) Sue
  • miker3miker3 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, but I have tried turning the key in the lock, an that didn't work. It will move, but not enough to release to get the tailgate to shut.

    Does anyone have any other ideas?

    Thanks
  • arthurkingarthurking Member Posts: 9
    thanks for the checking. It seems that the computer in my car has some problems with my park brake. Most of time I won't get a chime when I apply the park brake with the engine still running.
    My car is a Dodge Grand Caravan SXT not a Caravan SXT, so it comes with a overhead trip computer.
    Do you get any progress on your inaccurate gas guage problem these days?
    I thought about pursuing my problems with my dealer, but finally gave the idea up cause right now it seems not worth the hassles. I'd prefer the peace of my mind.
  • larry63rlarry63r Member Posts: 3
    I have a "94" Grand Caravan with the 3.3 V6. I am having the same problem with it. It stalls after about 20-30 minutes of driving. After it cools down for an hour or more it will run fine for another 20-30 minutes. I have no trouble codes. When I check it just reads 55(Completion of code display). I am just shooting in the dark with this one.
    I have 200,000+ miles on the van and the worst problems I have had are worn-out motor mounts and CV joints. I tow a small motorcycle trailer with dirt bikes to motocross races with it and I still have the stock tranny in it! (I never use the overdrive unless I am doing 65mph!)
  • motoringmamamotoringmama Member Posts: 35
    Check your engine's EGR valve or ECT valve. Sometimes these can cause stalling after warming up, and a faulty ECT valve will not always come up as a code.
  • dixiepeepdixiepeep Member Posts: 3
    I have no intention of fixing it myself. I just wanted to see if the compressor was moving. I am more concerned about the cost of repair. My mechanic lives in the country and we are having really bad weather and it will be hard to get to his house with tornado watches so I was just trying to see if the compressor appeared to be moving. It does not smell like it is burning but it emits an odd smell and blows hot air. I have not used the A/C since the odd smell. I will look for the belt route. I just want to see. Thanks for your replies.
  • suegreene1suegreene1 Member Posts: 3
    Well, you sure have been lucky with the tranny. I have spent $5000 in the past 5 years on trans! Which is why I want to keep this van running. When yours stalls do you get a 'check gauge' light and no other lights? That is what I am getting. I've never had any other big problems. sue
  • lil_lupelil_lupe Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 plymouth grand voyager that shut off on me while I was driving. I did the spark test to see if it needed a new coil, and I ended up replacing it. Now, when I try to turn the car on, it blows the engine fuse. HELP!!!
  • larry63rlarry63r Member Posts: 3
    Today I went to my friendly CPD(Chrysler,Plymouth,Dodge) wrecking yard to talk to them about my problem. They told me to start by changing the crankshaft position sensor. I should then change the cam position sensor. I did the crankshaft sensor today and it runs 90% better. It still has a hiccup but does not die. Tomorrow I will change the cam sensor and see if that cures it.
    The crankshaft sensor is easy to change. You put the van up on jack-stands and you get to it from behind the cross member. It takes a 10mm socket. Don't over-tighten it. The bolt only takes about 10ft/lbs. Cost was $31 at autozone.
    When it dies I get the check gauge light because the oil pressure falls to nothing.
  • tmcashtmcash Member Posts: 1
    Yesterday, my car was working just fine. This morning I went to start it and it would not. I am sure that I did not leave anything on or a door open. I tried jumping it off and it turned over, but still didn't start. After messing around with the battery cords, it started with no problem. After it started, the lights were flickering somewhat inside the car, but I drove it around the block a couple of times and it still sounded kind of funny?
    What could be wrong with it? Alternator?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Likely your battery needs replacing. Low battery voltage with these vans makes these minivans behave strangely.

    It could also be you have a loose or bad battery cable or something else wrong in the charging system, but 9 times out of 10 it will be the battery. Three years on a battery is not unusual, fortunately they are pretty cheap to replace.

    Go to an autoparts chain store and they will likely be able to give you a free test of your battery and charging system, and their battery prices will be much less than a dealers, so buy your replacement there also.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Between my wife and I we've had a dozen new cars over the last couple of decades, and the longest I've ever seen an OEM battery last was 47 months (on a car with a 48 month lease). If your battery is 36 months old or older, then it ain't a matter of "if", it's a matter of "when", and the "when" ain't too far off. My advice, change it now before you get stranded.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • joeyen5joeyen5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Grand Caravan with 75K miles.

    The other day, my driver side power window would not roll back up. I took off the door panel and without doing anything else, I tried the window switch and the window went back up. Today, the window got stuck again. This time, we just fiddled with the switch and eventually the window went back. up.

    The second problem happened twice this morning. My wife went to start the van and it wouldn't turn over. She said there seemed to be no power. She left the van for about 10 minutes and tried again and the van started right up. She had an auto tech from our local college take a look and he didn't find any errors with his diagnostic computer. However, the no power thing also happened to him.

    I'm wondering if anyone has the same issues and or suggestions.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    As far as the no start goes, I would begin by cleaning and tightening both ends of both battery cables. Also, as mentioned above, if you are still on the original battery, you are on borrowed time. It may not be the source of the problem but may be worth considering replacing it anyway.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    If it intermittently does not turn over, it could be that your starter or starter solenoid is beginning to fail. These days the solenoid may be mounted integral with the starter. Sometimes when they are beginning to fail, the starter will not turn over the engine then later on will engage properly, depending on what angular position the starter last stops at.

    It usually is not a real difficult do it yourself job to replace them, but you will have to judge your mechanical aptitude and desire to save a few bucks. Rebuilt starters are not all that expensive.
  • william642william642 Member Posts: 5
    Hi - new to the forum, would appreciate any help anyone can offer. I actually have two issues.
    2005 DGC SXT 3.8 12K miles
    1) After the vehicle warms up, the transmission gets "sloppy" when up shifting from 1st to 2nd gear (under light to normal acceleration) . I would describe the feeling and sound as a shudder and thump you can really feel.
    2) Occasionally I see steam coming from under the hood but the temp. sensor shows everything is okay.

    Any help anyone can provide would be much appreciated!
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