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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Since the Van is still under warranty, take it back to the dealer and let them figure it out.
  • william642william642 Member Posts: 5
    I have. They claim there is nothing wrong, but I think that's because a) they are too impatient and b) the van is still under warranty!
    I have driven other GC's and we owned one before this one, so I know there is something going on.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Then go to another Dodge dealer, they all have to honor warranty work even if you did not buy it there.
  • fish8fish8 Member Posts: 2,282
    Because the van is still under warranty, is no reason not to fix the problem. The dealer gets paid either way. If it's under warranty, the manufacturer pays, if no the customer pays.

    I agree, take it to another dealer.
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    True, they get paid the warranty rate from the manufacturer, which at best case is a break even deal for them. When a dealership has a backload of non-warranty service work, they rather not do the warranty claim and make a lot of profit. I would stick with the selling dealer, be polite but persistent and save all documentation of problems so if by chance the same problem occurs a month out of warranty, and of course then they can find the problem, you can say "I told you so"
  • sc00bssc00bs Member Posts: 87
    Im not sure were exactly to post this but I guess here will do since you all are familiar with problems. I was looking at the GC used, and when I went to do some research in Consumer Reports it says Used cars to avoid, Dodge Grand Caravan for years 2000 through 2003. It doesn't say WHY, but that people should avoid them.

    Can anyone tell me what typical problems occur with these years and why CR would list it as a used car bad bet?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, I find that kind of odd. Our 2003 has suffered exactly three faults (itemized below) in its first 66,000 miles.

    1) A dead OEM battery, which I replaced with a DieHard
    2) A failed wheel speed sensor which disabled the ABS and the Traction Control, fixed by the dealership for about $200
    3) A failed bulb in the center brake light at the top of the tailgate, replaced during the mandated annual New Hampshire inspection

    The sum and total of all unscheduled repairs on our 2003 has yet to hit $300, so by my standards, that van can well be called Extremely Reliable.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    There are a lot of faults with Consumer Reports surveying methodology, too numerous to get into in detail, the most glaring of which is the inherent bias in most of their subscribers, and subscribers are the only database from which they draw surveys.

    I do subscribe, mostly to get their non-reliability evaluations, so I do get and fill out their annual survey.

    The worst part of the survey is they do not discriminate in an objective manner between severe and minor issues, do not ask any information about the cost or down time of the particular issue, etc. Their reliability question is only a very vague to paraphrase "Did you have any repairs that you deemed serious" and then have you list the various components. Check out truedelta.com and click on the "Think Pieces" section for some good essays.

    Our 1996 Caravan (Yes horrors the first model year of a major redesign!) has served us well (AC repairs has been its only significant downfall) and it is now too old to even be considered in the CR survey.

    Bottom line, they are good vehicles, and a bargain when purchased used, because they are so numerous.
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    We have a 01 DGC EX that was purchased used in Sep. 2003, w/37K for just under $16,000 before taxes etc. Our van has been very reliable and we have never been stranded or inconvenience To date this is what we have had done both regular and non regular maintenance.

    1) Replaced both, front driver and passenger, power window regulators and motors. (Right after purchase and covered under warranty) Total cost was around $600. Only paid $100 deductible.

    2) Gas cap. This only cost $12.00 for the part, but close to $90.00 to read the code. Total was just under a hundred to which we paid out of pocket.

    3) Replaced front link, sway bar; link-sway eliminator; bushing-sway eliminator and cushion, front sway bar at 52K. Total in parts was $173.12. Don't remember total bill, but everything was covered under warranty. We only paid $100.00 deductible.

    4) Battery replaced for just under $100.00 at around 55K. Paid out of pocket.

    5) Had latch on liftgate replaced, upgraded computer software and adjusted the liftgate. Also, had outer tire rods replaced on both wheels at 74K. Total price was $451.25. Everything was covered under warranty, so we just paid $100.00 deductible

    6) Complete brake job including turning all four rotors for $450.00 at 74K. Paid out of pocket.

    7) Complete trans. flush for $89.00 at dealer at 45K.

    8) Regular oil changes every 3K.

    So, we have paid around $1,039.00 for all routine and none routine maintence. (This doesn't include oil changes). We definitely got our money's worth by purchasing the extended warranty. Our van has been very reliable, especially since it was the first year new model. :shades:
  • brenerdbrenerd Member Posts: 1
    Need some direction with a problem with turn signals. First I need to state that 4 way hazard lights work all the time and all the bulbs are good. My problem is that from time to time, with no noticeable pattern, the turn signals do not work. Sometimes they do not work at all, at other times they work but stop. Usually, if I turn on the 4 way hazards and then turn them off, the turn signals will work the next time I need them. Sometimes this trick does not work. I have 108,000 miles on car and do not want to spend hours of labor to solve problem. Anyone familiar with this problem? Thank you! David
  • mikew58mikew58 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2001 Grand Caravan with 90,000 on it. Its been a very reliable vehicle but lately the speedometer has begun to fluctuate and the check engine light is on. I did the on off on off on check with the ignition switch and got a P0601 code from the computer. I took it to my local mechanic and after checking it over he says the PCM needs replacing. I believe this is the module I know as the ECM. Are these the same thing? By the way I have also had the intermittent failure of the drivers window to operate. I will have to read the previous posts on this problem.
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    You can look the CR "Detailed Reliability Ratings" (the tables with red/open/black circles)where you will find these models have higher than average problem reports from the member surveys done the previous year. Roy
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hey Gang,

    As many of y'all know, we have a 1998 DGC 3.8 with the Touring Package (heavier suspension and 16" wheels), and ever since the van was new it has suffered from a Pulsing Brake pedal. This van now has over 115,000 miles on the clock and as such has been through three sets of 11" MOPAR rotors as well as two top of the line NAPA sets. Each set has developed a light pulsing in the brake pedal within a few hundred miles of installation, with the problem gradually getting worse over the next 20,000 to 30,000 miles. In every case I was forced to perform a complete brake job even though the pads were far from gone. :( Now however, I think (hope is more likely) that I've solved the problem once and for all.

    Sliced and diced every which way I could, the failure mode of the previous sets of pads and rotors led me to believe that our 1998 has been suffering from heat related warpage of the rotors, and so about a month ago I launched my quest for cooler running brake components. Here's what I found:

    Rotors: Power Stop: High-Performance Cross-Drilled Rotor (about $70 per)
    Pads: Performance Friction Brakes: CarbonMetallic (about $41 per axle)

    Total cost for the parts (with shipping) was just under $200.

    I installed them last weekend and now have just over 500 miles on them. So far at least, they stop as smooth as the brakes on our 2003. Note: by 500 miles on the previous sets I could already feel the early vestiges of the warping problem.

    To see the results check out the "Caravan Stuff" folder on my Yahoo! photo page: http://photos.yahoo.com/shipo

    FWIW, the 11" brakes that are on our 1998 only came from the factory on minivans with 15" or 16" wheels, a smaller 10" rotor was standard on vans with the 14" wheels and I have no idea how well those deal with the heat generated from stopping these vehicles.

    FWIW #2, as illustrated by a couple of other pictures in the Caravan Stuff folder, the 11" brakes on our 2003 are substantially thicker and as such have a much greater thermal mass which is better able to deal with the heat generated from stopping. With over 66,000 miles on the 2003 we've pretty much confirmed that the heavier components on that van don't suffer from warped rotors under the very same driving conditions.

    I’ll keep y'all posted as to the continued smoothness and pulse free driving that I expect to get out of them. I suppose this post will be worth it if even one of y'all have been dealing with the same issues and it helps solve them for your too. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • pernaperna Member Posts: 521
    My folks are empty nesters, and are on their second minivan. Dad has a lead foot, so he burns through brakes like there's no tomorrow. First brake job, and he just puts Brembo blanks (rotors), and high-perf brake pads. I suspect a lot of these companies undersize brakes, not taking into account that a van that's loaded down with a thousand pounds of people and gear NEEDS huge brakes.
  • leisa2003leisa2003 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 plymouth voyager, it ran sluggish, and finally died. As i was driving it I thought i needed new spark plugs. We changed them still wouldnt start, we changed the fuel pump still wouldn't start. The only other problem besides this was my radiator would boil,the gauge would never show hot, but when i would turn the key off you could here it boil. Dont know if these 2 problems may go hand in hand with why its not starting at all now. Won't even start when cool. It turns over but just wont start.
  • shortdjshortdj Member Posts: 1
    $th set of fronts and 2nd on rear in less than 36000 miles
  • lexan1965lexan1965 Member Posts: 118
    Hey guys,
    We have an '02 GC, this morning my wife got in it to go to work and she said the instrument cluster lights lit up across the dash. Funny electrical stuff going on...drivers side window would'nt go down also. I know Dodge vehicles act like this when the battery is going bad but I just replaced it with a new, good battery less than 2 years ago.
    Any suggestions on what to check or do? Thanks.
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    I just had very similar bizarre issues with my 2000 Bonneville which I took to calling Christine for those of you who saw the movie. I also had recently replaced my battery just as I had done on other cars many times. However, at the suggestion of several people on a Bonneville forum who thought it sounded like a bad ground, I went back and cleaned the battery connections and used dielectric grease this time. All's well now so it might be worth a shot.
  • funroadsfunroads Member Posts: 49
    Finally got resolution to my 3.8L misfire problem (codes P0300, P0306). Turned out not to be plugs/wires, or EGR valve, or vacume leak, or intake leak. It was a broken valve spring (cyl #6). Thankfully it was covered by the powertrain warranty.
  • lexan1965lexan1965 Member Posts: 118
    Well...took the van to a local Autozone and they checked the battery and the alternator. The battery was between 11.5 and varied up to 13 volts. The alternator however was only reading about 74, it should be reading about 120-130. So, I'm having it replaced as the van has 108K miles on it. The battery is good and the terminal posts are clean so I don't think that is the issue but thanks.
  • mikew58mikew58 Member Posts: 10
    As I mentioned the other day I have a 2001 GC that had developed some problems identified by my mechanic as a fault in the ECM. I picked up a salvaged ECM and changed them out. The problems I had are gone but I now find that the air bag light is on. I suspect that the air bag was deployed in the previous life this ECM spent. Is it possible to have this reset so the light is not on?
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Member Posts: 249
    Previous life or not, if the condition no longer exists, the light shouldn't be on. I know this is true for Pxxx fault codes, after power has been removed and the condition no longer exists, maybe it's different for the air bag light. Coinsidence that your clockspring decided to go at the same time?
  • minivangirl44minivangirl44 Member Posts: 2
    My turning signals and backup lights are not working on my 1998 Dodge GC. There is no fuse marked for these things in the fuse box. Would anyone know which fuse is the one to replace? Or maybe it's another problem. I do have an appointment tomorrow at the Chrysler dealership shop. Thanks for any info.
  • minivangirl44minivangirl44 Member Posts: 2
    I also have trouble with the air bag light always on. I read somewhere that this is not a good thing and could cause problems with the air bag function in time. Yet the dealership did not fix this when asked.

    My auto door locks also went into rapid fire mode and were constantly locking as the van sat turned off in the driveway---24 hrs. a day. That quickly ran my battery down and I had to replace it. Why the dealership didn't just recharge it, I don't know. But now I have no auto locks as we took the fuse out. The dealership says it can't be fixed, and that I will just never have auto locks. That seems unbelievable. I would like to add that I don't have a 1998 manual, just a 1999 one and the fuse box is different.
  • catarinuscatarinus Member Posts: 1
    I a proud owner of a 2000 Chrysler Gr.Voyager 2.5 turbo-diesel since new. It's popular in Europe diesel versions. The engine is a noisy Italian V.M. unit. I say noisy because I think it is not normal even for a diesel. I know all Turbo-diesel 1996/2000 models make such noise. However 2001 CRD and later models are much more quiet. Is it because of common-rail injection or the noise is due to other system eg. gearbox?Any suggestions?
  • tlsn4tlsn4 Member Posts: 3
    New member here and I hope someone will be able to help me out, cause I don't have a clue.

    Got up this morning and the wife couldn't start the van. Checked it out and when you turn the key to start it, I get a loud clicking/ticking noise and all the interior/dash lights flash along with the ticking. The battery isn't dead and the starter doesn't engage to even try and turn the engine over. I just get the clicking and light flashing. We got a good rain last night and I'm thinking it may be moisture in a connector, but other than that, not a clue. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? It was running fine and starting without issue all day yesterday.

    If someone has an idea, please let me know.

    Thanks
  • mikew58mikew58 Member Posts: 10
    It certainly sounds like you are not getting enough power from your battery. The clicking is likely the starter solenoid clicking but not enough power to engage the starter motor. Try cleaning the battery terminals. If you can get another battery try to start it on that one. Batteries can and do fail rather quickly. What happens when you turn the headlights on? Are they dimming when you try to start the car?
  • tlsn4tlsn4 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Mike. I'll try cleaning off the terminals. Wife is at work with the other car so I can't get around town right now to get a brush and some cleaner. Also, not sure about the headlights, since I'm the only one, can't see what they are doing when I try to start it. I'm guessing if they are dimming, then battery is crap, right?
  • mrbizness1mrbizness1 Member Posts: 93
    I am on my third battery. The OEM lasted 8 months. Replaced under warranty the second battery lasted seven years. Just replaced it with a Walmart battery. Both batteries failed without any hints they were getting weak. Started losing the tach and speedometer intermittently for a few days. Load testing revealed a weak battery. The dash battery light never came on in either case.
    If your battery is good you might also check the starter connections.
    good luck.
  • tlsn4tlsn4 Member Posts: 3
    Well after a little bit of sitting back and thinking about it, I'm thinking I got a bad battery. Its a Mopar battery, so its either OEM or one replaced under warranty at some point. I bought it used in January of 05 so I'm leaning toward its a bad battery. When the wife gets home, I'm gonna try and give it a jump and see if it starts, if it doesn't start, then that should lead me toward the starter. Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it.
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    One thing to think about is that on our older Caravan, when the battery died(totally without warning), it died so completely that we couldn't even jump it to start the van.
  • mikew58mikew58 Member Posts: 10
    Follow up to the problems with my 2001 GC. I had a check engine light on and the code it gave me was P0601. The symptoms were a fluctuating speedometer needle and a rough shift between first and second gears. According to my mechanic this indicated a fault in the ECM so I purchased a salvage one through eBay. Chrysler dealer wanted $600+ just for the ECM while I paid $150 on eBay.I removed the original and installed the replacement only to have the airbag light remain illuminated. Today I talked to my local mechanic and found that I will have to have the original VIN programmed into the replacement ECM. Seems this is the symptom when there are two VINs stored. So next week its off to the local Dodge Boys to get the ECM flashed. Dang thing sure runs better with this salvage ECM. No error codes and no operating problems. I did change the battery while I was doing this after realizing I still had the original Mopar in there and this is over 5 years of service. So some of them last.
  • denise05172531denise05172531 Member Posts: 1
    I BOUGHT A USED 1997 DODGE CARAVAN.LOVE IT SO FAR.I DROVE IT ABOUT A WEEK THEN LOST ALL INFO ON MY DASH(TEMP,TAC,SPEEDOMETER,ETC.)I HIT THE DASH AND IT CAME BACK ON.NOW I'M LOSING THIS INFO OFF AND ON ON A DAILY BASIS IT JUST WORKS WHEN IT WANTS TO.THE LAST FEW DAYS I'VE HAD NO INFO AT ALL.ANY SUGESTIONS OR IDEAS.I APPRECIATE ANY HELP.

    THANKS
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    I second that. We have a 01 DGC EX and back in mid 2004 had to replace the original Mopar battery. We had no warning, it just died while at the dealership for an oil change. They tried jumping the battery and charging it. Nothing worked. They did test the charging system and starter and all was fine. ;)
  • leisa2003leisa2003 Member Posts: 3
    Well, we checked the spark plugs and wires, all is fine their. Tried to jump start it, and no luck. Brother ran code on it, and he said it was nothing electrical. It fires, but just wont start. Any Suggestions?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    It fires, but just wont start. Any Suggestions?

    Sounds like fuel starvation to me.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • mreinsmoenmreinsmoen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 grand caravan and recently after unlocking the door with the remote all the doors are fine, but when I try to open the driver's door the lock goes down as I pull on the handle. I am forced to time my pulling to just after the lock first goes up.
    Has anybody else had this sort of problem. I think it is mechanical, but I have not had a chance to look at it. I have no problems getting out of the car. It seems like the exterior handle and the lock are not working together as they should be.
    Any ideas?
    Thanks!
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    This sounds really strange, like there must be a short in the electrical wiring inside the door.

    Unless they changed the design since our 1996 was built, Dodge and Chrysler minivan front doors can be opened from the inside without unlocking them, the inside door handle overides the locks.
  • leisa2003leisa2003 Member Posts: 3
    Well we changed the fuel pump, not that, and my brother put fuel in something on top of the engine, to see if it would start then, and no luck. He said it was getting fuel. Could it be the timing belt? This van studdered when it would idle for about a month before it finally died and wouldn't start. :cry:link title Any suggestions??? Thanks, Leisa
  • leesprts31leesprts31 Member Posts: 2
    On wednesday went out to try starting the minivan and it would turn over and run for a second and then immediately shutoff - also noticed that dashboard lights were out and that speedometer and fule gauge would not work either. Took vehicle to repair shop, they couldn't determine the issue of the problem, but after messing around have the vehicle running(not for sure how long), but all dashboard lights remain out as well as fuel gauge and speedometer. Any thoughts on what could be wrong and a possible solution to fix?
  • 98tclxi98tclxi Member Posts: 5
    Does your caravan have a security system?
    I have a 98 Town and Country LXI w/ 137,000 miles
    (2nd owner). After three attempts,( the car starts but shuts itself off after a half-second... ) the security system needs to reset. IF left for an undetermined time...maybe an hour, maybe 12 to 14 hours ( my last couple of experiences) it will miraculously, restart. It appears to be associated with locking the vehicle. Hitting the switch from the inside to lock the car causes or appears to be the culprit. I was advised if the key is used to lock from the outside, it shouldn't activate the security system. It is very bizarre, but this has been a nuisance for me over the last 6 months or so. Replaced the starter, foolishly, but was hoping it was a fix. Not.
    I still need answers.
  • leesprts31leesprts31 Member Posts: 2
    Yes, I have a Security System - The repair shop thought that the malfunction was asociated with this, but was unable to determine where, suggested I take to dealership, but they can't fit me in for about a week, need vehicle before then!
  • danieldkkdanieldkk Member Posts: 9
    My 02 GC with 42K miles has a check engine light come on. My local Goodyear repair shop checked it and cleared it. It came back on after about 100 miles. Anyone have similar problem?
  • mikew58mikew58 Member Posts: 10
    Yep, been there done that. The fault that is causing the light to come on is still there. Try turning the ignition to the on position, all the way till the dash warning lights come on but before it starts. Do this in the following pattern - on - off - on - off - on then watch the odometer and you will get a trouble code. It will start with a P------- tell us what you get and perhaps we can ID the source of the fault. You will have to get whatever is not working fixed inorder for the light to stay off.
  • danieldkkdanieldkk Member Posts: 9
    Codes are P1684, P0442, and P0455. I went to Allpar.com and found they are "Driver 5 Line 4", "Evap system smalll leak detected", and "Evap system leak detected".But what do these mean?
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    I just had this fixed on our 2001. There was a cracked line going to the charcoal cannister. Whether this is your problem or not, the codes indicate a malfunction of the evaporative control system. There are a variety of possible sources of the problem but if you are looking to do it yourself, do a visual check from underneath to see if anything is broken, disconnected or cracked.
  • larry63rlarry63r Member Posts: 3
    Where is this sensor on a "94" 3.3 DGC? My book says I have one, but I can't find it.
  • amazonamazon Member Posts: 293
    I'm replacing the driveshaft on my '94 voyager. The problem is, the balljoint is stuck in the knuckle. The clamp bolt has been removed, the sway bar has been loosened, but the ball joint won't budge. :mad: :mad: :mad:

    Any ideas? :confuse:
  • mfahey1mfahey1 Member Posts: 419
    There are relatively simple tools to do the removal but I've had good luck with an ordinary propane torch and a hammer or better yet, a small sledge hammer. Heat around the knuckle and it should expand enough that a tap of the hammer will release it.
  • amazonamazon Member Posts: 293
    Thanks for the idea. I got it out by turning the "pin" around with pliers, and then use a crow bar to separate the control arm from the knuckle.
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