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Comments
TMV is zipcode specific and ought to represent what people are reporting as paying for Avalons in your area.
You also will get a page full of pop-ups for dealers in your area. Try each one on the net or over the phone and see what you can get them to offer.
It also helps to approach the purchase from an 'out the door price'. Add in the sales tax you will pay and typical registry and titling fees that you think are reasonable.
Always talk 'out the door' price with the sales team. To prepare for this, go to the toyota.com website. Select build you own and put in your zip code. Toyota will show you the 'popular' packages for area ( i.e. the ones they are shipping to where you live ). You can price them online and then go back to Edmunds to get TMV and invoice. Most of the cars on their lot will be one of these. Figure out the out the door on each that you are willing to pay.
As they say in the Westerns, "Son, that gun fires faster when the bullets is alreddy in it".
If you just deal from 'over invoice' leaves the sales guys open to 'etch your glass', charge for 'Toyo Guard' on your fabric ( very common down South where salemen must have soiled trousers or something) and other add ons. If the carpet set isn't on the sticker, don't buy it from them at list. Ask for 40% off and if they won't sell it at that, buy it online from toyotaparts4u.com.
Also, if you are trading, call the used car department at the dealership and tell them you just inherited a 'whatever it is you have that you want to trade' and need to dispose of it and see what you get offered.
Use that as the low benchmark in the deal for the new car if a trade is a part of the equation.
Agreed out the door price minus lowest trade equals your max cash out of pocket. If they over more than the used car guys and meet your out the door price, you are ahead of the game.
Don't talk lease or financing until you've settled on a price. Don't tell the sales people any more about your financial circumstances than you have to. They take cash, but like to get you to finance it, since they often get inception fees and kick backs from the loan. If you belong to a credit union or have good credit, get a quote for the deal up front from CU, bank or finance compay. Ask the dealership to beat it with no change in the out the door price.
The 03 is fresh to the lots but you still ought to be able to deal in the range you want. 02's ought to be well under invoice!
Good luck and let us know how you do!
At this time they are only available for the front windows. I have a set for both front and rear windows on my 4Runner and they are great. When parked on a hot summer day, crack the windows 2 - 3" to keep the inside much cooler and no worry about rain. This is another option that Toyota should offer, they work great.
MacNeil Automotive:
http://www.weathertech.com/main.asp
they are not yet listed for 03 Avalon but 02 is the same...
http://www.weathertech.com/store/vehsearch.asp?make_id=52&veh_id=638&year_no=2002&veh_opt_choice_id=&item_group_id=4
gotsha, I finally had a chance to ride in the passenger seat and noticed it too that the power seat does not go up and down.
In 20 years I would have thought the Japanese could have figured out that auto A/C means set the temp and it holds that temp. and keeps everyone comfortable. It's good to hear they aren't perfect.
In the ten months and 7000 miles I have had it in central Florida, it has been set on Auto 76 degrees 98% or the time. The only exception is if I manually select front or rear defrost. It automatically adjusts fan speed and controls temperature regardless of whether it has sat in the sun for 5 hours, or sat in the garage overnight in 20 degree weather. It is also quiet (not silent) even on high speed. The Japanese do know how to do it. Maybe just not all of them.
Press in the "AUTO" button
Temperature: set to desired temperature
Air intake to "FRESH" outside air
A/C button on
This is the correct operation for the auto climate control and should maintain the desired/set temperature.
: )
Mackabee
Thanks.
Does anyone know how to increase the clicking noise of the turn indicators when they are indicating either left or right turn?
Some of the questions I have:
Are there local companies that transport cars?
Who is responsible for dings and scratches?
Is there a deductible for such damages?
Do you have to leave a copy of the key?
Would my homeowner insurance policy cover intransit damages?
Does someone at the receiving end have to sign off on delivery?
And about much should it cost?
Your helpful suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks
What gives? Should I bring it in for warranty service? Is this common? There seems to be a lot of posts on this subject lately. Thanks for any help.
Unfortunately, I don't think there is a warranty claim here. From what I have seen and heard, your system is functioning as designed. The design may stink, but it is not "defective."
Try going over to ebaymotors.com. Shipping cars all over the country is part and parcel to the online car auction business.
On the ebaymotors.com home page they have a link to vehicle shipping. On that page is information from a company called DAS. They show a list of prices from different cities, including Boston to Orlando for $425 ( which is probably due to the car train ).
Anyway, I'd call them and ask them the questions who have above (800) 726-2693
Regards and good luck.
FYI - I think that Boston to Atlanta would be about 18 - 20 hours to drive running at "reasonable" speeds and minimum stops. Richmond, VA is about 1/2 way.
Thanks again
Roughly how long does it take (I'm in SW Penna)?
Dave
of posts. Unfortuantely, I kind of feel that
95% of them fall into the category of:
1. reflection on dash lights on drivers window;
2. air conditioner fluxuating;
3. Rattles;
4. gas mileage;
5. Sound system unable to hold vol. and bal settings.
To tell the truth, I feel like I've stumbled into
a private club populated with clones of Niles and
Frasier Crane.
But, heck, that's okay. I guess.
I bought a 2000 XLS for my wife. It has 59000
miles on it. Pretty much all the bells and whistles on it. It was purchased from the Seattle Lexus Dealer, and have to say, they were wonderful to deal with. For those of you shopping, I paid $19980 for it. It was in excellent condition with
all fluids filters changed and running gear inspected. Brakes and tires are around 60% to 40% worn. No blemishes, squeaks or defects that Ihave been able to find. I rides great. I'm really impressed with the traction control and the
understeer/oversteer correction system.
After reading about it's self adjusting abilites,
I decided to give it a try and took it into a
freeway on ramp that was rated at 45mph. I've
exceeded that in the past, but not by a large
margin. With the XLS, I came through it at
around 80+ with no feeling of instability or
drift. Pretty amazing.
I do have a couple of questions that I hope
someone can give some input on:
Of course, like everyone, I'm concerned with the
sludge issue. Seems that Toyota has stepped up
to the plate with their 8 year warranty. Kudos
for that. I doubt Ford or Chevy would every consider doing that.
I am considering using Amsoil in the V6.
My wife and I have kept our last family cars for
15 and 17 years--we keep them until it doesn't
make economic sense to put more money into them.
So, I'm looking to get 200K miles out of the
Avalon.
I am also wondering what spark plugs are the
best for this engine and whether or not the
tranny and rear end should be changed to synthetics. The fluids were just replaced, so that isn't all that pressing. Just would like people's thoughts on it.
Also, of course, the XLS has 16" tires and I'm
wondering how people have fared going to the
215s. Would snow chain wheel well clearances have a problem with larger tires?
the XLS has the JBL sound system. It sucks.
I'd worry more about the drifting on bal and fader it the system was good enough to be engrossing--But it is not. They voiced it for
boombox flavor on the moth top 40 junk. My audiophile CDs (FIM, MFSL, JVC XRCD) sound terrible.
Note: I did listen to a Mark Levinson system in
the Lexus showroom that sounded okay. But, the
JBL is really crap. Oh well, save my serious listening for home system.
So, guys any suggestions on fluids, plugs and
maintainence would be appreciated.
Thrilled with the XLS. Frankly, being and old 53
I find it much more enjoyable than the BMWs, MERCs, LINCOLNs and CADDYs I"ve driven. My wife
likes the fact that it doesn't have the pretensious badging of some vehicles. Great car and look forward to spending many years with it.
Regards,
Rusty
But I am glad to report that I found an even better deal with American Auto Transporters (www.shipcar.com) of Canton, MA, my home town. They will deliver the car at the designated address in Atlanta for $525 including insurance.
Driving the car to Atlanta (1130 miles) is another option that we considered but decided against it since my daughter just got her drivers license only three weeks ago. I bought her a brand new Honda Civic LX sedan for her birthday since she was complaining how hard it was for her as a college student to get around Atlanta.
Thanks footie for your help and suggestions.
I pay $10-$12 per hour, food, lodging etc. and return airfare (southwest is cheap) bus or train.
I wouldn't want a total stranger driving my new 30k car 1100 miles in most situations but the dealer would know if they have the "right type" of person that could handle it
Does anyone have any advice as to further reliability beyond 100,000 miles?
Make it to that benchmark and they'll give you a new car.
More realistically, unless the car was driven hard and put away wet as a driving style, I'd expect 200K from it before I started thinking
about cost of repair vs cost of ownership.
Regards,
Rusty
I'm pretty sure that the Avalon does not have mudguards as an option and dealers are using Camry mudguards which seem to fit perfectly. The Camry must use the same lower quarter panel as the Avalon?! Any users out there have mudguards on their Avalon? Have they been effective at keeping the road grime off the body? Please advise...
looking at oil:
http://www.tn-tacomas.com/maintenance/TacomaV6OilChange.html
Also, has anyone tried to increase their tire and/or wheel size with these cars.
Thanks
We have a 2000 XLS, also bought at Boch that my wife drives. It's in Cognac Brown, a very rare 2000-only color that most people didn't like that she loved. It has around 16K on it with no major issues other than rattles and squeaks that they took care of during the first three months. They even got the Toyota Zone tech in Mansfield to come up and fix one of them and even replaced the front struts to end an odd squeak we heard going in and out of the driveway.
Good luck.
Wrote a while back regarding some issues with persistent rattles in my Avalon XLS, 2002.
(purchased in Attleboro, MA)
After four visits, still no resolution. Dealer says they'll have area "specialist" in to check, but before that, they want to replace rear windshield (for rear passenger area rattle). I am concerned this will only create more issues.
Footie, I see you had similar issues, well resolved at Boch. Any thoughts?
I have 8k miles on it, travel daily to Boston, on less than ideal (major understatement) roads, so I'm sensitive to the noises. Other than this, I love the car! Bought two, actually, one for Mom.
She's thrilled.
Also, anyone out there buy the color matched door edge guards? Can I easily put these on myself?
Thanks!
We had one sound that we sure was coming from the moonroof. Before we ever took it to the dealer, I noticed that my wife didn't have the sunvisor on the driver's side seated correctly. Snapped it into place and the moonroof sound went away.
The Boch guys used the 'standard tricks' to make sounds go away, a little foam here, a little lube there.
There was a definite squeak in the right front as the car went in and out of our driveway. They replaced the struts and fixed it.
But the ones that persisted needed professional help from Toyota.
The folks at Toyota Zone in Mansfield have special electronic listening system that they can place in the car to help pinpoint the rattle sounds. They used it to locate a sound under the rear seat ( a clicking ) that would have sworn was above the right passenger side rear seat in the ceiling.
I would certainly have the dealership get them to come over before they ever touch the rear windshield. They are on Forbes Boulevard just of I-95 at Exit 7, probably 10 - 15 minutes from the Attleboro dealership.
If Toyota windshields are like others, the seat on rubber supports and lay on a bed of black gooey stuff. I have never heard of a rear windshield causing a rattle in a car, especially without leaking somewhere. It's probably $800 of warranty work the dealership is trying to do through Toyota. I just had one done on a Mercury Sable and spent the whole 90 minutes with the guy that did it and learned a lot about glass installations too!
Likely suspects for rear rattles are something under the seat (like ours), the fold down cupholder (try it up and down in the seat), the babyseat fastener plastic shrouds on the rear deck(they are a loose fit in our car). Also check the trunk. The wire spring assembly that holds the trunk lid up makes clicks when we lift it. Look under the car if you can, see if anything is hanging down.
Good luck
Go Phantom Grey- it looks great on the Camry, and i'm sure it will look just as good on the Avalon.
~alpha
Does anyone know if White is an extra cost option as it seems to have been in '02. I really like the white but don't feel like paying extra.
The Diamond Pearl is extra but worth it!! It has a metallic mica flake added and the color is a yellow shade white, very rich looking. This option is $220,00 retail / $187.00 cost, not much additional on an XLS listing for close to 35K.
Before purchasing I preferred the Lunar mist but my wife choose the Diamond Pearl with Ivory interior.
You have to decide what color you like and if this shade white is your choice, it is worth the extra.
===========================================
hearthis,
Try this site for matching door edge guards. I have not ordered them yet, still deciding if we need them.
http://www.toyotaparts4u.com/
I will surely ask for the Mansfield specialist to "listen" before removal of my rear window.
I drove to Maine, all highway, this weekend, and just as you said, the rattle appeared to move from rear seat area, to front pass. area, and back again. Made me nuts...thank goodness for the CD's.
And thank you Highlander...I did check out the site you mentioned....just wanted to know if I should order or not. Guess I'm a bit nervous about creating yet another rattle with an "add-on"!!