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For questions, call Toyota USA (800)331-4331
Even with todays high prices at the pump, I feel premium fuel is the way to go... but I also use synthetic oil too... (some consider both practices to be excessive).
To me, if Toyota say 87 octane is fine, they make a huge bet. What if they were wrong? This car was designed to run on 87.
Maybe the engine computer can figure out that the mixture performance is better when it has premium - maybe it's perception.
It would seem to me that the car mags and consumer reporting groups would be having a field day reporting on gasoline octanes and mixtures if there was any real difference.
Buying premium fuel is almost as bad as buying a Mercedes and thinking you are getting a 'quality' car. A little fluff goes a very long way. So do engine additives.
The wheel nut locks are opened using a "key" that is found in your tire tool kit in the trunk. I believe mine was actually already in the end of the lug wrench. These are "Port" installed options so most likely they would never be mentioned in your manual.
If your lock key is missing...the dealer has them. I actually have an extra one now because the dealer left one on the trunk of my car after a tire rotation.
One thing I have noticed from using Garmin portable gps databases [three different kinds]is that none of them are perfect. In fact, a brand new database can contain obvious and perplexing errors in both metropolitan or rural locations.
For a good price estimate try http://carsdirect.com
I've been reading old posts where at least one person tried fixing his suspension with new shocks/struts. Is this a fix, or do I need to have something else done? (I'm not a DIYer, and the local Toyota service dept doesn't see anything wrong with the suspension.)
If FRONT, then it is most likly the top strut/shock mount. This is a known problem.
If REAR, then it may be the same, but is more likely-the sway bar bushings. Start with these, since it is easier, and more likely the solution, to the problem at the rear. FYI-there has been at least one service bulletin on this same rear sway bar/bushing combo (ES300). -nomad-
Bottoming out implies full take-up of the shock or strut(No more travel left in it). This usually generates a knock or bang in the strut. May sound like someone kicking inside your engine bay or trunk!
If it is a ground clearance problem then you have to look at: Struts...I can't believe they would be THAT soft???? Springs...Are they OEM????....or, Aftermarket lowering springs???? ...which may also be for a different and LIGHTER car... NOTE: A ground clearence problem is usually a bang/scraping sound.
Is the car "mushy" over uneven roads??? ie) Does it "bounce" in the Front/Rear after a bump????
Anyway, that's a lot of "guesswork" until we have more info...let me know. -nomad-
The noise is definitely from hitting the ground, not from the components. I'm sure it's a ground clearance problem. The car has all original equipment and I bought it 23 months ago. The ride sometimes feels mushy, but not always. And I don't get the "bounce" over bumps.
And the scrape isn't always there, but there are certain potholes or speedbumps that I know will cause the bottom to hit the pavement if I don't slow down to less than 5 miles per hr.
I really didn't think much of this problem until this week, when I had to leave the Avalon in the shop to get the throttle fixed and I noticed the loaner Avalon (03) didn't do it.
Speedbumps used to scrape my Avy, so I would approach them at an angle... The car sits slightly higher with new struts and has not been a problem since. Larger (meaning height) speedbumps can give you this kind of problem...IE)Any speedbump with a peak that is greater than the ride height of your Avy. ...which is about 5 inches. -nomad-
By the way, I drove my Dads 03 XLS again for many miles and I don't get why people are complaining about the suspension. I drove on very poor roads and thought the car did well.
Did some comparing to back to back with our 97 DeVille with 100k. The Avalon is more quite. The Caddy is MUCH faster. They both get similar gas mileage on the highway (around 25 mpg). The Caddy can take an off ramp at higher speed. As far as ride, both are very good. Have not tested top speed on the Toyota yet, but the computer on the Caddy halts the action at 112 mph and the car posts you have reached the fuel cut off!
Oxidation???? Absolutely protects-My cars can go much longer without the need to polish it. The slick surface attracts far less dirt and contaminants. The first wash after applying it, you will be surprised-the water will roll right off your car! ..and, it will do this for months!
Dusting??? I will remove light surface dust with a dry to slightly damp ALL cotton towel. You will notice dirt, including bird "dirt" does not bond to the paint. It cleans very easily. If there is too much dirt, WASH it, you risk "swirls/scratches". FYI:Zaino is good with very light to fine swirls. These will disappear after a few applications.
Towels??? SPEND the money!!! Go get some good ol' made-in-the-USA "ALL" "100%" "Totally" cotton towels..in WHITE!!! Seriously! Buy 5 or 6 just for your Avy!!
Any Q's let me know -nomad-
Programming instructions for Toyota Avalon Remote with the following ID.
FCC ID: HYQ 1512 Y
CAN: 1551 102 578
RSS - 210
DENSO
1. Open driver's door.
2. Insert and remove key from ignition.
3. Cycle power door locks on-off 5 times.
4. Close the door and open it again.
5. Cycle door locks 5 times again.
6. Insert the key and turn it to ON - OFF - ON - OFF and remove.
You will hear the locks cycle.
7. After that, press BOTH Lock and Unlock buttons of the remote together
at the same time, then push the one button with the bump on it. (Lock)
If the door locks cycle ONCE, you're done.
If they cycle twice, it didn't take..... Just push the buttons (Step 7) again.
If you wait too long between steps you'll have to start over again.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
If you are ADDING a second remote you must repeat Step 7 on the other remote
right after the first remote is done so they both obtain the same code.
I have a 2002 Avalon XLS with 205/60/16's. I would like to change to 225/50/16's.
Is it possible? I don't know why such an awesome car comes with such tiny tires. I think they're too narrow for the size of the car.
Please help with this. Thank you.
The most noticeable trade-offs in a wider tire are some ride comfort (maybe????), as well as wet and snow traction. Handling and steering response should be better and DRY pavement traction should be better.
Nomad56, You mentioned higher struts for your Avalon. Does this alter the handling?
I know there really shouldn't be but this tire seems softer and better handling.
Maybe I just let the originals get so worn and hard that anything would have seemed better???
FYI-YES, it's safe to drive without the swaybar. There will be more body roll when turning/cornering.
I can't contain my chuckles. As far as imports go, you can not find a better sedan in a reasonable price range for a backseat room and comfort. I consider Avalon a true Passenger car. Avalon backseat is even better then Ford's Crown Victoria, which has suprisingly limited knee room because of the bulky front-seats. But you must be a very devoted to your brother-in-law to be concerned with his comfort. Is he paying for your kids college tuition?
You complaint with the New Avalons is well documented. I did some research and this is what I found.
1. Same part number as Camry and Lexus 300. They all use the same struts, manufactured by a company here in the USA.
2. The difference in the XLS and XL may be a little difference in the tires that come with the vehicle, as the side wall ratios are a little different. Both tires are too small for the car.
3. If you would like the car to handle markedly better, without being too harsh, then get a set of four TOKICO STRUTS, bring them to a shock and alignment place, and have them put them on. You will notice a remarkable difference in handling wihtout having to can any tires or wheels. You will have to get the car aligned. I believe a couple of other people have had similar experiences with Tokico struts.