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Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier

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Comments

  • aglasseraglasser Member Posts: 4
    Wind noise, air conditioning, road noise are all the problems I have. I am not pleased with the car at all for this price.
  • travelerjbtravelerjb Member Posts: 46
    First let me say that under NO circumstances has my 03 XLS ever bottomed out, so that isn't something I've run into. The wind noise is annoying however, and I am very surprised as it was supposed to have gotten a "A La" Lexus type of insulation job from what I was told. Maybe that was a lot of hooey I guess as it is anything but quiet. My previous Saturn L series car was even quieter to be frank, and that wasn't all that great. Road noise is substantial, but I wonder if a undercoating treatment would make much difference? Mine is still new and clean enough to consider it. What do you folks think?
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    Traveler-I took care of some wind noise (it was minor) in my Avy, by tightening the front door closure. ie)I adjusted the catch on the "B" pillar, "in", and the door closes and seals more tightly. Do NOT undercoat the car! Toyota does a good job avoiding corrosion. Road noise should be addressed with quieter tires?????? If you really want to keep noise out of the cabin, go to a good car stereo shop, and have them "Dynamat" your interior. -nomad-
  • jluther2jluther2 Member Posts: 18
    nomad56: Did not pay all the coins for this car to have to resort to quieting the cabin from wind noise and possible "brain damage" from a super loud stereo.

    All literature I read prior to purchasing was that the Avalon is a "Super Quiet Ride".

    Car is equipped with Michelin Tires.
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    There is NO stereo involved in my post!! A post inquired about rustproofing to further quiet the cabin. This addresses outside noise. NOT wind noise created by a channel between body panels. If a person thinks it is necessary, and goes to that extreme, my recommendation is to quiet the cabin with Dynamat. This is usually installed by good car audio guys. It will quiet the cabin from outside sounds. This will NOT, however, remove wind noise. See my previous post...My wind noise was isolated and terminated. NOT covered up. Now, my Avy IS very quiet, no aftermarket sound absorption was needed, or used.
  • travelerjbtravelerjb Member Posts: 46
    I don't think I would wish to go your route of wind noise abatement as the body panels currently line up perfectly, and if I adjust the plate inwards they would NO longer look perfect. I can't believe that with all the rubber gasketing from outside to inside that actual air is getting in, as frankly I do NOT believe that is what is generating the "roar" I am hearing. It is not a simple wind "leak" but the typical roar from high speed driving into a wind hitting the surface (either it's the windshield or the mirrors) I feel are truly generating what I am hearing, not the "leaking" of air. When I close my doors it like a "vacuum" so it's a tight fit, just allowing noise to enter the cabin via outside wind buffeting I think.......
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    travelerjb: FYI, the adjustment did not change any body panel alignment. This was a small movement. However, it now looks like this IS the problem area(possibly???). I spoke to my buddy, a Toyo/Lexus certified friend(good to have), he recalls: Toyota issued a TSB on this and there are new (read FATTER) front door seals, which corrected the problem on the two he did. I found TSB's for the earlier Avy's. I will try to get one for the newer models next time I am at his shop(This may be a week, or so). Check with your dealer. They should know about this. Hope this gets you closer to quiet! -nomad-
  • travelerjbtravelerjb Member Posts: 46
    I'll look into that. Besides I need a new driver body seal anyway as it has come undone in the corner a bit. I'll check to see if they now have thicker one's available as if it worked to quiet things down I'd be WAY happier........
  • lyn03lyn03 Member Posts: 5
    Anyone having a smoking problem with start up and excessive oil consumption please read my post in Avalon Maintenance. It is post #223
  • bejay1bejay1 Member Posts: 1
    travelerjb,

    It is most definitely noise generated by the mirrors. I've noticed it before (it does not happen all the time, under all conditions). It took me some time to localize it, but I am convinced that the mirrors are the source. The body is tight and this is a different sound than what I have experienced with body noise.

    I do not know of any fix, because the mirrors cannot be moved. I have been able to reduce it, by moving my windows slightly up or down, so that they sit in the door seals differently. I think this may be effecting the air pressure between the window and the mirror housing. It sounds (no pun) strange, but I regularly investigate vibration induced noise and it never ceases to amaze what will generate noise.

    I had a rattle that I would have sworn was coming from the right door/floor/seat. Turned out to be the sun visor on the right side. It does not fit tightly into its clip and came loose. It was enough to make a rattle that I could not find, until I sat in the right seat, because my ears said to look elsewhere.

    Bejay
  • footiefootie Member Posts: 636
    We had a rattle we were convinced was coming from the back seat area.

    It was the visor on the driver side. It doesn't fit tight enough. We stuff a small amount of kleenex in it and rattles go away.

    There have been other rattles in the Avy that we thought were one place and were found in another. It's so big, and so much attention must have been spent on getting acoustics right for the stereo, that the side effect is rattles fool the ears more often than not.

    Good listening!
  • tmp89169tmp89169 Member Posts: 9
    My car is the 03 Avalon with factory sun roof. With all windows closed, I get a loud rumble or reverb. sound when I get in the car and close my door. It sounds like the head liner is not tight and is acting as a drum. Just wondering if this is another normal noise. I think it is time to go to the dealer and complain.
  • footiefootie Member Posts: 636
    Hi tmp,

    I've been posting and reading here for over 3 years and never heard the reverb problem....
  • jluther2jluther2 Member Posts: 18
    Nomad56, sorry to bark at you.

    What is the term "Dynamat" mean?

    Thanks,

    JLuther2
  • bwiabwia Member Posts: 2,913
    jluther2:

    According to the company's website, http://www.dynamat.com/ the product is defined as:

    Dynamat (Dyna-mat) is a thin, flexible, easy-to-cut and mold sheet that actually stops noise-causing resonance and vibration, by using visco-elastic qualities that promote vibro-acoustic energy conversion. In short, Dyna-mat turns noise into silent energy.
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    Yup', that's it! Bottom line is it quiets the interior of the car. Sheet metal is not that different from a drum head...more like a "gong". Hit a gong, and it rattles a while. Hit a gong, with "dynamat" on it, and it sounds like you are beating the dirt out of a rug...only a brief thud will be heard. -nomad56-
  • smu1976smu1976 Member Posts: 110
    Picked up my 2004 XLS today. I can not believe the luxury ride of this car. It really feels like a big Lincoln or Caddy. I have a Honda S2000 for a sports car, so I wasn't looking for some luxury/sports car. Turned off the stereo and really can not complain about any wind noise at any speed. Then again, I' used to a ragtop and a Suburban, so maybe the benchmark isn't there. Guess its all relative. The only complaint I have, for a car that stickers for 36K, how about throwing in a set of floor mats?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,147
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  • travelerjbtravelerjb Member Posts: 46
    You must have one tight dealer as mine threw in the all weather mats, deluxe car cover and a rather extensive ClearBra treatment to close the deal. Mine was loaded with every option and didn't sticker for quite the figure you are quoting, but It is also a 03 bought in March. Still sounds like your dealer wasn't very motivated or you didn't crunch them hard enough.
  • trunks1trunks1 Member Posts: 13
    I HAD A 95 TOYTOA AVALON XL IT HAD 187,021 MILES ON IT WHEN I GAVE THE CAR TO MY SON STILL LOOKS VERY GOOD (MINUIS THE FACT THAT HE PUT SOME UGLY RIMS ON IT)I NEVER HAD NO PROBLEM OUT OF THE CAR BUT THE ABS BREAK LIGHT KEEP COMING ON AND OFF AT AROUND 115,000 AND 140,000 MILES AND THREE KNEW SETS OF BRAKES BUT IT HAS BEEN GOOD TO ME.
    (JUST BOUGHT A BRAND KNEW 300M LOVIG IT SO FAR)
  • 2001xls2001xls Member Posts: 3
    My XLS has performed well since purchased in May '01. Currently sitting at 63k, it's still quiet at 80 mph, handles well and is very comfortable. I did have the low speed rattling problem in the left rear at 29k which turned out to be the upper shock tower mount/bushing. Both rears were replaced under warranty. Also have noticed wind noise in the top part of the driver's door, but don't hear it all the time.
    Special note: 28 mpg average over 500 highway miles per week; still running the original Michelin MXV's (going for another 10k) and have not touched the brakes - although we're about ready. Maintenance includes oil every 5k, tires rotated every 10k and mostly regular gas.

    Everyone that's seen it or ridden in it has been more than complimentary. No surprise to me that Toyota has outsold Chrysler this year!
  • shaver2shaver2 Member Posts: 2
    MY 02 Avalon tends to be very sluggish up until about 2500 or 3000 RPM. At this point there is s definite surge of power. This tends to make it over rev resulting in not smooth shifting. Also, the mileage is not good - 16-18 town. Dealer states no code problems therefore nothing wrong. Also have the whine starting at 25 MPH that is very annoying. Many posts state it is the alternator. Dealer states it is normal. Waiting now for the Toy rep to get with the local dealer. This has been going on for six weeks now. Any advice would be appreciated.
    Thanks - previous car was a 96 Avalon XLS.
    Kenb
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Shaver2:

    I have an 02 also. Trying to extrapilate your concerns and compare them to my own experiences. Agree that the car, does tend to labor a bit, when taking off, but that is just do to the way them have it set up, and in addition the insulation of the car. Most of the power is mid-range, but I do not find it hard shifting. It is actually quite smooth if you let it get up to speed and do not push it, then back off on the gas a bit just before it up shifts. The alternator whine, I agree, it can be a little annoying, but nothing that some silicone spray will not take care of. Try that, carefully, while the car is idling, and it should fix the problem. You will have to reappy it now and then.

    Hope this helps.

    Arthur
  • smu1976smu1976 Member Posts: 110
    Checked my tire pressure, first time after obtaining the car a few weeks ago, from the factory (car built August 4, 2003) all the tires were between 29-31 lbs. 44lbs is the recommended pressure, not sure why its so low, but notice this on all my new cars. I believe it gives potential buyers a soft ride during test drives, but maybe its just the industry standard for some other unkown reason. Anyway, check your pressure upon delivery.

    Attn: Travelerjb, the car is purchased through my company, no negotiations on my part, they did purchase the XLS fully loaded, every option except stability control for $27,500, with a $36,000 sticker, so I think they reached the bottom line. They are buying in bulk though, so this wouldn't apply to a regular consumer. Other cars like the 300M, Explorer, Bonneville, do come with mats, but my new Kraco's for $25.00 at AutoZone work just fine.
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    smu1976-where does the 44 PSI come from?? Avalons through 2003 have been recommending at most 32 PSI. If you are getting this from the tire sidewall, that is incorrect. Look in your glovebox. The 29-31 the car arrived with should be pretty accurate. ..just curious... -nomad-
  • artamanartaman Member Posts: 3
    I'm no good at this negotiating. I know what I want and will probably have to order it because my wife wants bench seats in her XLS. What would be a fair price to pay with the following options: GU(Premium package), SR (sun roof), MG(mud guards), M5(5 piece mat set), WL(wheel locks), D(Door edge guards), TS(custom stripe).
  • shaver2shaver2 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the response. Will try as you noted about the alternator but where do I apply the silicone? I misstated about the shifting. Meant to say downshifting. Very sluggish going around a corner and then giving it some gas. Drops into low and jerks your neck. See no exp about the mileage. Running about four MPG less than the'96 I had.
    Kenb
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Shaver 2:

    Now I know what you are saying. Yes, you are right. When going slow, then depressing the gas pedal, the downshift can be kind of abrupt. This is a just a point where the power curve and the gear ratio are not optimal. Try this. When you are running the car, below 50MPH on a continual basis, like around town or around a tortuous mountain road, take it out of OVERDRIVE. This will give you only 3rd as your top gear, and unless you are going very slow, you won't have as much hunting, unless it goes down to the 2nd gear.

    In reference to the post with 44PSI, I do not think you are correct, and this may be very dangerous. 44PSI on the side wall of the tire is the MAX PSI which the tire manufacturer recommends. You Avalon probably takes either 31/32 depending on the 15/16 wheel. It is too light a vehicle for that much pressure and will bounce over curves and be very uncomfortable besides dangerous. Please check your manual or car for the correct pressure.

    A.Fisch
  • smu1976smu1976 Member Posts: 110
    I thought you should go with whats on the tire, so thanks for the information. The manual does say 29- 31 for everyday use, but 40 psi if your driving over 100 mph for any length of time.
    Time to let out ten pounds.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    The whine as you call it, probably is generated from either the alternator or belts. The alternator you can do little about, but while the car is running, gently and accurately and lightly, spray silicone on the inside of the belt that contacts the spools. It should get a little quieter.

    On downshifting, if you car is downshifting alot, unless you are sport driving, you are in too high of a gear range. Use you OD off button when needed for prolonged slow driving as well as braking.

    A.Fisch
  • kicker9kicker9 Member Posts: 57
    Hate to disagree with you fisch, but, if you spray the inside of the belt with silicone, you'll make it slip instead of grip on the pulley wheels. Instead, you can buy belt dressing in a spray can at any auto parts store, hope that helps.
  • mongiemongie Member Posts: 1
    Recently I've been getting a rumbling sound from the rear when I hit bumpy roadways. I had the muffler and exhaust checked for loose clamps and fittings and had the dealer check the entire rear. He only found loose "trunk Stays" and re installed them along with some insulation. The rumbling still persists. Any clues?
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    Can you describe the "rumbling"? If you drive across a big seam in the road, does it sound like someone is in the trunk and knocks one time on the inside of the trunk?? If so, I will put my $$ on sway bar bushings. The way I finally determined this was to remove the sway bar and drive around. Lo-and-behold, NO noise! If you determine this IS the source of the knocking, I recommend polyurethane bushings as replacements. Energy makes 'em as do a few others. -nomad-
  • 05790579 Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone heard of a new body style change for the 2005 Toyota Avalon? If so, are there pictures out yet etc...
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Kicker9:

    Thanks for the correction. You are right, I am wrong. I meant to write belt dressing. I rush a little less next time. Thanks for the correction. That is what this forum should be all about.

    AFisch
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Nomad56:

    Can you give several POC (points of contact) and either websites/telephone for these PU bushings.

    Thanks.

    A.Fisch
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    GoTo: energysuspension.com for part numbers. They vary by year. A web search for energy suspension and/or polyurethane should yield some retailers. Autozone or PepBoys might be able to order 'em for you. If you want to order online, try: www.suspension.com or www.lightningmotorsports.com/energy_suspension1.html or www.alamomotorsports.com I did EVERYTHING in poly, including a few custom pieces. It really tightens up ANY play in the suspension. This is a performance and handling improvement and may be too rigid for some. However, I highly recommend the poly sway bar change...they are more durable, eliminated the mysterious "knock" I had and reduce body roll. -nomad56-
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Nomad56:

    I got the numbers for the Rear Control Arm Bushings, Rear Sway and Front Sway bar frame bushings. Whom did you buy yours from??? This is all they had for the car. Did you put them on yourself??? I realize I will have to get it aligned again with the rear control arms. If you had someone do it, what was the labor cost???

    There is a 18mm or a 19mm Front Sway bar. Do the XL come with the 18 and the XLS come with 19mm or is this by year model of the car????

    How much more turn in response for the fuzzy steering do you get??? How much do the ride deteriorate???? I already have TokicoHP struts on with stock wheels and tires. Do not want the ride quality to decrease too much and become harsh as it is nice the way it is.

    Thanks for the experience and advice.

    A.Fisch
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    ab-I bought from a vendor I won't recommend.... they simply took too long and I felt I was getting the run-around. For simplicity, I bought both, the 18mm and 19mm. I was told by my Toyo dealer, 'the only way to know, is to measure 'em (caliper).'

    I did both sway bars. I really wanted to reduce body roll. I am in the process of having a custom oversize rear sway bar made. I may attempt the front also, but things are tight up there. (I'll let ya' know.)

    I also did the front and rear control arms, including a few custom pieces.. the custom pieces come from a LEXUS aftermarket supplier. Toyo does NOT offer replacement bushings??? ...so you have to buy a new control arm!!!! Keep in mind a good friend of mine is a Toyo/Lexus service guy...he told me about an entreprenour who thought this was crazy, and started to mfg a poly replacement for these parts and ordered 'em for me. Which leads us to the install...I did it at my buddy's shop. This means I had the right tools. The bushings can go in with a press, but an air hammer is better.

    Then, I had it aligned. I drove a half hour out of my way to go to the "best guy in town" that' means $99 in the Burbank/Glendale area. It was well worth it.

    Steering? No major changes. It is a little more precise, but still lacks feedback. This will be my next project. If I can improve the stering, I will seriously consider other improvements....like, supercharging. Maybe next summer???? The ride did not deteriorate, it changed. My buddy has an Avy and swears we have different cars. The Tokico's made a great improvement and made the car a little firmer. The poly bushings emphasized these changes further. Probably too harsh for most Avy owners. As a reference point, the best I can tell you is, "It's almost as harsh as my buddy's Acura TL-type S in a straight line. It handles better than it ever did, but my next new car will probably be a Type S."

    Bottom line: I want a sports sedan. It is less expensive and more fun to "hobby" my Avy closer to this goal. Who knows, after the sway bars and a supercharger, it may be the perfect sleeper?????????? -nomad-
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Nomad56:

    Thank you for you time and expertise in your reply above. This forum is heaven, and circumducts all the dealership bull and misinformation.

    I found two good vendors. I will get under the vehicle after two or three weeks, as soon as my knee feels better from the surgery I had last week. I will measure the sway bar x 3 at points just lateral to the bushings and report this in this forum.

    Fortunately, I too am lucky to have the necessary tools and mechanics, although not probably as good as yours. I am an US Army officer who is fortunate to have an Auto Hobby Shop on base with Mechanics that roam and help us. Each lift bay has its own set of full tools and pneumatic equipment.

    The NEW bushings come with an "G" modifier after the part # to signify graphite impregnation. This should be welcome for lubrication purposes.

    I have no aspirations of doing more than this as the car is vastly improved, and is the right balance of comfort and handling for the dedicated long driving I do between Army posts in upstate New York.

    I Acura is a very nice car and reliable. But, in my opinion, not nearly as comfortable with a bench seat as the Toyota. The cabin is smaller, the ride harsher, nor is it a 5 series. It just doesn't serve my purpose although in Califormia, is might be more fun for you.

    Supercharging, and doing more suspension mods are always an interesting test, to see how far the manufacturer has cut costs. Toyota would have done a much better service by not making the steering "light and fuzzzy", putting competent shocks in the vehicles, as well as a little better brakes. The Powerslot Rotors with EBC shoes, and the Tokico Shocks HP make this vehicle much more competent as a highway machine, with the owner's need to gooble up pavement, and get through a long journey in a safe, and fluid manner.

    Thanks again, for giving me and the forum your experiences and knowledge. This is really an excellent vehicle for owners to share their experiences.

    A.Fisch
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    A.Fisch, The steering is my next "upgrade." I am certain this can be improved. I am working with a racing friend on this. Toyo offered no help. I inquired with them, because Lexus offers a power steering ECU performance upgrade. I will let ya' know.

    With each improvement to my Avy, I am closer to a "fun" car. When I bought it originally, passenger room was of paramount importance. It is a little less important now, and there is no reason to change cars. ...so, I'm having fun with it. 141k miles and people think it's a new car.

    Yeah, the "TL-type S" is simply a much more performance oriented car. 270 ponies from the factory. If the Avy keeps going, it may be a few years!! -nomad56-
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Nomad56:

    Thanks again. I will await you experience with the steering rack, the only part of this vehicle that really is technically difficult to improve without major modifications. If you can do it, more power to you. That is terrific.

    I will write my experience in this forum re: PU bushings, after the install.

    It is snow time up here, and will need to place the snow tires (all around x 4) on the vehicle as the winter's are pretty, but can be challenging driving wise.

    If you can let me know what front sway bar bushing size for the front you used, I will correlate it with my measurements. I don't want to buy two sizes or get stuck under the car with the wrong size. That would help.

    Again, that "Light and fuzzy" steering, described by Consumer Reports is the ONLY thing, I can think of that we have not addressed with modifications and corrections. The average handling, front dive when braking, etc. all have been corrected. Very interested to see what you can come up with.

    I think Acura is remodeling the new RL next August. Hopefully it will be more in line with a true flagship. Enjoying your technical expertise and experience. Thanks for all the input. You have helped.

    A.Fisch
  • wachsmuthwachsmuth Member Posts: 19
    My 2003 Avalon has 10,000 miles & I have serviced it regularly. Now I notice a "gurgling" noise when going up a slight grade or hill. When I take my foot off the accelerator, it stops. I didn't even hear it at first - my wife did - but now it is more noticable, even though it happens irregularly. Anyone out there have a similar problem? I am on the verge of taking it to the dealer, but thought I'd pick your brains first.
                    THANKS !!
  • tmp89169tmp89169 Member Posts: 9
    Just maybe we are hearing the same noise. My 03 avalon with 10000 miles started making a rattle like noise with light accelerator. This noise would disappear when I pushed a bit more on the accelerator. I had been using regular fuel, so I switched to some premium and the noise is gone. I know this doesn't make much sense but it happened to me. Hope you have the same results if you are using regular fuel. TMP
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    I suppose it could be from the Octan rating, but I do believe that that "gurgling" noise coming from the engine bay are the valves.

    Nomad56??? Any comments on this. I think this is normal noise from the VVT-i engine.

    A.Fisch
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    YES, start with gas. Octane is often a solution in this car, even with "knock sensing". Toyota's answer is that a slight pinging in the 2-3k rpm range is normal. I'm not sure why some cars seem to have it, others do not.

    However, like any other question I try to help with, my first question would be to make sure we are describing the same noise. One says a "rattle", one says a "gurgle". This may be the same noise, or two different situations altogether. -nomad56-
  • wachsmuthwachsmuth Member Posts: 19
    Sure appreciate all the input - but I could not describe the noise as "rattling". That, to me, means a metallic sound. Mine is more a slight "growling" (gurgling) and does NOT disappear when I accelerate more. I sure will try the higher octane gas. Now today we took a good ride and it didn't happen once. Very strange. What do you think, Nomad?
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    At this point, I have no previous experience with a noise of your description, but I will venture a guess. We are getting closer. The fact that it is intermittent, and you have not increased your octane, moves us away from the octane issue.

    If it is a bit of a growl, my first inspection would be the intake. Look at everything from the intake box to the throttle body for a loose fit(opening) in the intake. Including the air filter, be sure it is seated properly. NOTE: You can remove the top of the filter box and the filter, start the car, and rev the engine a little. See if this is similar to the "growl" you were hearing.

    Did the "pitch" of the noise increase with RPM's??
    Does it seem like a "combustion" noise, intake or exhaust?? ...or moving parts??

    If you post any additional info, I'll help ya' find the demon. Keep us posted, and let us know what the fix is. -nomad56-
  • russianguy13russianguy13 Member Posts: 3
    My car in the mornings always starts to shake and the RPM's would bounce around like 100 up or down. I think this is because of the Idle Air Control Valve. I am wondering how do I clean it. I heard it is very easy but where is it and how do I take it apart and clean it. Please help me as i dont want to pay dealer's rediculous prices
  • nomad56nomad56 Member Posts: 134
    #13, your IAC is on the underside of the throttlebody. To keep mechanics employed, Toyo makes it hard to get to. You have to remove the throttlebody, then the IAC can be removed. It should be held by four screws. There will be an electrical connection, and some smaller air hoses connected to it... I guess you can try to clean it??? I never have. It is a "valve" system which allows more air into the throttlebody when cold. You'll see the in and out chambers on it and perhaps you'll see the valve and what needs to be cleaned???? Never thought about cleaning/rebuilding it-Sorry! Hope this gets ya' closer. -nomad56-
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