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I'm considering them instead of the T&C's stock Champions.
Please share your experience. Thanks.
http://www.sparkplugs.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=1430087&pid=16604
I'd like to avoid spending too much money by bringing it to a shop. I'm comfortable with electronics/electrical work, but my time is also limited. Can the player be repaired reliably, or it's time to upgrade?
What did/would you do?
I did try the platinum in my Altima because the store had a sale on them. I had replaced NGK plugs with 55k miles on them. I didn't notice any change in performance.
It shut down like someone turned off the key.
Had to have it towed home on a Sunday night when everything was closed.
There is no click when turning the key to start it.
No radio, gages/idiot lights, wipers or turn signals.
Head lights, emergency flashers, heater blower, power tail gate release & interior lights all work.
The battery is Ok.
Anyone have these problems or an idea what to look for?
I called 3 dealerships & Chrysler's help line.
None of them had a clue (or wouldn't give one).
This thing is one of the worst vehicles I ever owned.
:lemon:
What's up with that? :confuse:
Best Regards,
Shipo
Back of the drivers seat ready to break off, rusted brake lines, oil leaks that can't be stopped & The professionals can't get it to pass smog for the last 4 yrs!
I talked to a guy at my local auto parts store that said he had one with the same problem.
He suggested it might be a burnt or corroded wire from the battery to the starter.
He said to check or bypass the 2 wires & it should solve the problem.
I ran out of daylight when trying to work on mine.
Hope this gives you a clue (and me too!).
Too bad we can't buy hunting permits for used car salesmen like we can deer!
Please let me know if you learn any thing. :sick: :mad:
Since I'm presently in the backwoods in Maine getting ready to travel 1100 miles back to Illinois next week, I'm not near any wiring diagrams that I could check for a common link. I'm leaning towards the ignition switch or perhaps a master relay of some sort but I wondered if anyone had any insight into this.
Anyone have any ideas as to how to loosen the shoes off so I can remove the drum? Or how to get the parking brake cable out of the way so I can access the starwheel (assuming it has one?)
Larry
However, other things could be contributing to excessive "road noise" such as tire problems, CV joint issues, etc.
Good luck.
1. My passenger side window regular stop working
2. Bigger problem is my lift gate lock remins in lock position not able to open i.e. can not close
Any advice ?
Thanks,
ATF+4 is what is recommended for our year.
I tried by passing wires to the starter with no luck.
All fuses (that I can find) test good.
Still no good info as to the problem here.
Mine is ready to be scrapped out at 90,000 mi! :mad:
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Hi guys, I have a "new" 1996 Grand Caravan.
When stopping abruptly or turning sharply the transmission disengages or behaves as in Neutral for a few seconds.
Trans oil level was OK. I added 1 QT in it and now it works fine, but the level shows overfilled.
Does the torque converter have a different oil pan, as in, do I have to fill it through a different filler?
Vicenac. Hopefully you checked your transmission fluid when completely warmed up and with the engine running and after shifting through all shift locations. Otherwise you will get a faulty fluid level reading. And no, you do not fill two different transmission fluid reservoirs.
Has anyone had this issue with a 2006 era Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.3 L engine? After driving maybe 1/2 hour at freeway (65-75 mph) speeds, a continuous whine can be heard which is engine speed related. Once this whine occurs, it continues even at low speeds. It disappears once the van has cooled off for a few minutes, but once back at highway speeds, it slowly begins to get louder again. It is normally not heard at all in city stop and go driving. Could it be a belt, or power steering pump or something else. No performance issues have been noted. Any help would be appreciated.
It does sound like perhaps an alternator bearing or one of the pulley bearings. A mechanic might be able to locate the noise using his version of a stethoscope. It's worth tracking down, because if it is one of those bearings, it's going to seize and spit drive belts all over the place---and a sudden lose of power steer perhaps. Worst case would be the seizure of the AC compressor, as this spews debris into the entire AC system, requiring a very expensive repair.