Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier

pcp2 · July 2005

2000 Avy/W 64K mi.Here we go again ! Changed spark plugs pcv valve and fluids and the check engine light (steady) burning and vsc & vsc off lights came back on after about 275 miles of driving. Trouble code (lean burn front cylinder bank) came up again. Checked gas cap to be sure it is tight, OK.

Now what do I do???
1. Replace mass airflow sensor in air intake ?
2. Replace o2 sensor in front exhaust manifold?
3. Replace o2 sensor under car by cat converter?
4. Ignore the steady burning check engine light and keep driving? The Toyota dealer said steady burning light is no problem but a flashing light is serious.
5. Reset computer and sell the thing?
I wonder if this is a built in fault so Toyota can build in profit for its Dealers. Chrysler did this with a check engine reset button under the dash that if you did not know it existed the dealer would charge $300 to reset. NO ! I don't think Toyota Avy would not do this. It is troubling!

par_pa · July 2005

I had a similar problem with my 2000 Avy, and I have got a cue from my Toyota dealer to clean le mass airflow with a soft brush. I had to do it twice. First time, the VSC light came out, but re appeared after a few miles. I repeated the procedure, being more careful and thorough, and the problem disappeared for good. It has been a year now.
It won't cost you much to try.

par_pa · July 2005

Tire sizes are P205/65R15 92T and P205/60R16 91H.

fin · July 2005

Difference in speedometer reading is minimal.
REmove 15 inch, INstall 16 inch: When the speedometer reads 65 mph you are moving at 65.5 mph.
REmove 16 inch, INstall 15 inch: When the speedometer reads 65 mph you are moving 64.5 mph.

Remember T-rated tires are good to 118 and H rated go to 130 mph...if this matters. Probably not. Enjoy the Avy ride(s)

abfisch · July 2005

Greenblet:

Mine got taken off in a parking lot and high wind episode. Painful. It cannot be fixed with the broken one relatively speaking. Buy a new OEM one on line or locally. Take off the door panel carefully, as well as the trim for the door grab and open, all with a screwdriver and trim tool. Make sure the plastic is at room temp or hotter. Peel some of the moisture barrier away from the door metal. Locate the three screws and bolts holding the mirror on and disconnect the wire at its disconnector. Put the new mirror in and reverse the order.

Take care and your time. Do not rush. Should take you about 2 hours.

abfisch

pcp2 · July 2005

Thank you for this info. I have cleaned mass air flow sensor and reset the computer. We will see what happens. Again ! Thanks all for your help.

66gman · July 2005

Give this a try: I too have a 2000 Avalon and mine VSC & VSC lite came on. I checked everything I could think of, and found the master cylinder resavour was low, I topped it off and light went out and stayed off.

adriver · July 2005

Hi, Just bought an Avalon 1999, 75K miles; Everything about the car is great except for road handling - It drives ok but I am feeling the bumps on the road much more than I want to. And the back seems to hang low from the road.

I really want to improve the handling - after reading this forum, I am thinking I need struts if not other things also - what should I start with? Struts? Should I get it done at a Toyota dealer ? Or get from online and have independent mechanic install? What brand of struts? Thanks

:confuse:

robertu · July 2005

Good morning, adriver. You wrote "[My 1999 Avalon] ..."drives ok but I am feeling the bumps on the road much more than I want to. And the back seems to hang low from the road."

OK, let's take these one at a time. They may be related, but let's try to solve each individually.

Bumps in the road: Check you tire pressures. Most normal people use a pressure gauge, but if you're on a tight budget, visual inspection and a quick kick will do the trick. Regardless of what the psi readings are (Toyota's recommended pressures are on one of the door pillars.), lower them by about 50 percent. This will smooth out the bumps for ya'.

The back seems to hang low from the road: Well, I'm a little confused by your terminology "hang low from the road". Do you mean the back bumper of your car is lower than you think it should be? I'm gonna assume this is what you mean, right?

If you mean the back bumper is too low, here is my suggestion: Check who owned the car before you. If their last name is Gotti, Capone, Nitti or anything else that ends with "tti", look in the trunk. Remove any "excess baggage" like corpses. If there are no heavyweights in there, the next thing to try is to add air to the tires. This will jack up your rear end.

adriver, after re-reading my response, you probably should take the car to a good mechanic.

Cheerio.

ROBERTU

abfisch · July 2005

Adriver:

Not sure the condition of your vehicle nor what actualy you mean by the back hanging down too low. However, this is what I would do seriously, versus the other post that answered in a less serious form. This is all MY OPINION, but I have down ALL of this with my 02 Avalon.

1. Find a very good reputable Mechanic, wheel alignment; axle, frame place. They seem to be able to do the best job on this type of work and have the heavy equipement needed to do it. NOT TOYOTA unless you really have a competent dealership. I know of only one company sponsored dealership that really has a handle on this, and it is a HONDA dealership in Vermont.

2. If the Coil Springs on the car are OK, then I would start with the struts and the tires. The OEM struts used on the Avalon OEM are the same part # that they use in the Camry/Solara. Check it out yourself. That was always a bad thing IMO for the Avalon, as the weight and the geometry of the suspension are different. USE TOKICO HP or KYB GR2 struts, for a firmer, sportier ride without harshness. In addtion, get the struts rubber bumpers, stock, from Toyota to replace when they change the struts so you will have new rubber on both sides of the struts. These are relatively cheap. The struts are usually in the $400 range for four.

3. If your tires are OEM, and are worn, I recommend the same size!!! not PLUS ONE, and I can recommend without qualification the FALKEN ZIEX 510's (number???). They are extremely sporty riding, shed water terrifically, have a little whine to them, but are priced right and are made in Japan.

4. You will need a four wheel alignment when this is all done.

5. Put the appropriate tire pressure in each tire when it is cold (31PSI) Toyota recommends. Drive the car awhile. If that does not put a smile on your face, go to #6.

6. Order for Energy Suspension the Front and Rear Sway Bar Bushings (PU) for the sway bars. You can put these on yourself, or bring it back to the garage/mechanic to do it. Have them lube them up very well or else they will squeak. However, your cornering will be flattened considerably.

7. You can, at the same time you change the sway bars, change the lower control arm bushings, with PU ones made by energy suspension products also. I am not sure I would do that again although I did it. I did not see alot of handling changes although non was negative.

The biggest bang came from the struts, and they are the most costly to do. The PU bushings are cheap and easy. All will firm up the ride some, but not really make it harsh. If you change the tires to a lower profile, then you will be inviting harshness into the cabin, something I find unacceptable.;

My 02 Avalon, rides much like a Police Interceptor (Crown Vicotria Ford-with the police suspension). Although not a BMW, it certainly goobles up highway miles confidently now as well as long "S" turns through the Adirondacks on our way to Vermont. This is all the while giving a quiet comfortable ride and enjoying the XM stereo.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

abfisch

fin · July 2005

Not sure what your various problems might be but member *abfisch* posting above is the resident guru of '04 and prior Avalon suspension mods. Suggest following what is posted and you should be a happy camper. Avalon is noted for a soft and smoothe ride but it also nose dives and bounces much more than you might expect. Might also check to see if your car was ever damaged or wrecked. Hope this helps....

avolan · July 2005

Will a dirty filter cause a fan to suddenly start roaring ?

55396 · July 2005

Hi AB. We just drove an 05 Avalon. I had driven one before, but my wife had not. I really wanted to compare the Touring to the other models, but they had none. Of course, my wife loved it. The 05 feels more like my LS400, a heavier, more taut, buttoned up feel. I like the appearance of our 03 better than the 05, after I tricked it out (I posted pix here awhile back), so we are trying to decide whether to move up to an 05, or go the suspension route as you did. This investment would dictate that we keep the 03 for quite some time, giving us time to find a better price on a used 05 down the road.

This brings me to my questions for you.

1. Was this the effect you experienced when you installed the Tokico struts?

2. Have you driven the 05? How close is your 02 in this respect, to the 05, after the mods you have done?

3. How much increase in road/tire noise did you get after installing the bushings?

4. What does Energy recommend you use to lube the bushings that will not deteriorate them?

5. "In addtion, get the struts rubber bumpers, stock, from Toyota to replace when they change the struts so you will have new rubber on both sides of the struts."

- Did you mean the rubber bushings that cushion the strut from the frame at the mounting point? I have noticed a slight clunking in different cars, mostly on the rear, which I assumed was from the shrinking/hardening/compression of these parts, resulting in a bit of a gap, causing the clunk as the suspension changes direction. I assume these are the rubber parts you are talking about? What do you think about this? My dealer estimated $400 in labor to install the new struts. Seems high. I'll look elsewhere. Both service managers claim that they have never replaced struts on an Avalon, when I mentioned comments from this forum.

6. Any idea how the performance of a major brand of struts, like Monroe, compare to Tokoco? Are they cheaper? Did I read that Toyota replacement struts are made by KYB? I wonder who makes OEM? (Doesn't really matter, as they would build to the Toyota spec.) I don't suppose the 05 struts are the same physical dimensions as the 00-04 models. That would be too much of a bit of good luck, although they would probably be as expensive as aftermarket.

"Put the appropriate tire pressure in each tire when it is cold"
A year ago, we visited my wifes cousin. They had driven Cadillac's for years. I had just finished installing the spoiler, wheels, gold package etc. He was looking the Avalon over and asking all kinds of questions, so I tossed him the keys. At first he declined, but then changed his mind. When he returned, he said, "That was not what I expected. I'm glad I did that". I wasn't sure what he meant, but I thought it may have been negative. About 6 months later, we heard that he had purchased an 04 Avalon that the dealers mother had been driving and he loved it, but was disapointed in the ride. I mentioned tire pressure. I think he said they were at 38 PSI, and he dropped the pressure. He thought that made quite a difference, but I haven't spoken to him since. I'll find out this month at a reunion.

Thanks,

Jerry

abfisch · August 2005

Not usually. You will have to qualify your question. Are we talking about the cabin filter and the HVAC unit or the engine intake filter and fan belt in the engine compartment???

abfisch

abfisch · August 2005

55396:

These are all very good questions. Realize, I have to qualify my responses and they are ALL in my opinion, although I have considerable experience with this car now, and most of the service managers give me a deer in the headlights look when I start popping specifications at them.

I will try to answer your questions in the order you have posted for everyone.

1. Yes, this was the exact effect of the strut replacement, which I did at approx. 18K. I bought the vehicle new, an 02 XL. However, in addition to your "button up" feeling, it markedly improved braking, as the front brakes are not overloaded as the struts stabilze the weight basis.

2. No. I have not driven an 05. Multiple reasons. #1. My head hit the roofline getting in and out of the new car on the showroom floor. #2. The 05 no longer comes with a bench seat. #3. The 05 only tows up to 1000lbs, while the 00-04 tows up to 2000lbs. I tow a very nice light 6 X 8 Worthington utility trailer weekly. We have a log home, and I do alot of work, around the house, mulching, carpetry, insulation, etc. so trips to Home Depot, 84 Lumber, the Dump, etc are a common occurence. Unfortunately, IMO, you may get more HP with the new car and more bells/whistles, but they obviously took things away. I would not buy a new Avalon. The Ford 500 is much more a useable daily vehicle although I am not a FORD fan as I think that corporation and its recent fire problem with the cruis control in the F-150 and their denial really show you the corporate mentality.

3. Road noise is more a result of tires, road conditions, weather conditions and the PU bushings do not affect this. The sway bars are support to the chassis clamps/links near the frame and links at the hub. They come from the factory as rubber. Over time, rubber gets very weathered especially in that place. Guess what happens??? In addition, rubber deflects some which does not keep the geometry of the sway neutral. Guess what happens. PU (Polyurethane bushings) are solid, although they give a little. The CON of them is, #1 they will squeak a little if not lubricated correctly which would drive anyone nuts but does not affect performance, and they very slightly allow the transmission of vibration rather than noise through the frame into the body. It is practically undetectable to the average driver, but on very bad runs, you can feel it. The PRO is that the sway bar works the exact way it is suppose to, and it is the same result as putting on bigger ones. The PU bushing comes with a small tube of lubricate grease, but I have found that it is sometimes not enough. Blue Marine Grease, which is hyrophilic and is used for boat trailer wheel beerings works very well, although every now and then, when you have the car lubricated, these probably should be lubricated also. No big deal.

#5(Skipped). Yes, I mean the "bump stops". That are on the strut towers. They deteriorate too, as again, they are rubber. Why don't they use PU, is because, probably it would just transmit too much harshness into the cabin, it is a hard place to lubricate, and they are a little more expensive.

I believe the going rate around here was $275-$300 including a 4 wheel alignment need after. I am not sure where you live. Toyota dealerships charge more, but I don't think that is totally unreasonable, just high. Try a wheel axle, alignment place to get another estimate.

#6. From what I remember, I believe it was Monroe who contracted to build your OEM strut. No positive on this but that is what I recall. The Tokico HP or KYB GR2 are premium struts, and you get what you pay for, or did not. You would expect the Avalon, their flagship to have premium struts, but they were the same struts the Camry/Solara had. How premium is that, you decide. Remember, Toyota does not make the strut, someone makes it for them.

#7. No, I would not think that the 05 takes the same struts, unless you check the item number and they are the same as past years. Would not count on that now. And, the touring model suspose to have different struts but I would beat they are right off the Camry SE(performance model). I would bet a piece of bubble gum.

#8. The last thing you want to do, is to change the tire size. Buying better tires than the OEM, which Toyota also does not make, is a very good idea. I do have multiple sets of wheels, one is a 16"" diameter instead of the 15" diameter that come with the car. The 16" (215/55 H 16) (same size as old Nissan Maximas and E class Mercedes) give a little better transient response but with the premium parts start to give you a much firmer, BMW like ride.

Bottom Line: If the suspension is doing its job, just put the tire pressure at the exact pressure the manufacturer states. They take into account the HP, Torque, and the weight of the vehicle. This is something that many persons do not think about. Such as putting let say 20" rims on a Avalon. Not smart unless you limit your driving to a smooth race track. Then why are you in the Avalon in the first place.

31PSI for the 15" and 32 PSI for the 16" I believe is what Toyota recommended.

If the 05 floats your boat, go for it. Just wait until 06 as NEVER buy the first model year. RESIST!!! However, my needs and wants tell me, I found the closest although not perfect car for a long time. I have 70K on it presently.

Good luck.

abfisch

55396 · August 2005

Thanks AB. I knew I could depend on you for a detailed response. The 05 definitely 'floats my boat' once inside driving it, but I'm not crazy about the exterior appearance. I too went the same wheel/tire route as you. The American Racing Sniper 16" wheels really put the finishing touches on it. I have always felt that if I 'invest' in these things, I will like the vehicle much more, it will be unique and personalized to me, and most importantly, I will be satisfied in keeping it for many years. That's the investment part. I will probably go for these suspension mods as it sounds like it will give us what we want. That will allow us to wait at least a couple of years which will bring an 06 into the target price range. BTW, I live in Minnesota. Due to the harsh winters, road conditions tend to suffer, and that's why I have so much concern for road noise and vibration transfer. No big deal down south. Thanks again for the quality response.

Jerry

abfisch · August 2005

Jerry:

Thanks for the good words. We live in very Upstate, NY, near the Canadian border. We have winters similar to yours, although last year was without much snow, but bitterly cold. I also run 15" H rated winter tires during the six months, same size as original equipment on all four wheels. I think between all things, you have to decide which car is of more use. I had just the opposite feeling about the new model although, as I said I sat in it but did not drive it. Mine could always use more low end torque for pulling the trailer, but with an automatic in the new one, it comes on at mid-RPM, and the weight limit has diminished. Maybe I should take a drive in the TOURING model and compare it to mine. That would probably be a nice comparison for those deciding what to do. Either way you'll have a nice vehicle. I am just gettin old and once I become familiar with my machines, I like to hang onto them. I do the majority of maintenance myself anyway.. Yesterday, changed the PS fluid, and today I may have to change the radiator fluid for the first time in 4 years since I bought it. No biggie.

I would wait until the 06 or 07 came out though. Stuff happens, especially with first year models, unless one has to be the first on the block to keep up with the Joneses. There are no Joneses where I live, at least on the 40 acres surrounding us, so ....You'd get a kick out of the PIAA 1500, FOG and DRIVING lights I retrofitted under the front bumper, relayed them separately, so the fogs come on with the low beams, and the driving set comes on with the high beams, good for winter storm driving. Since I got the XL, I had two dummy switch plates on the bottom right side of the driving fascia under the steering wheel. NO VSC in the XL that year. So I bought two Toyota lamp switches and they fit perfectly in there. Handy and lucky I guess. Changed the 9005/9006 bulbs to PIAA bulbs as well, and there is enough front and side road illumination on a rural highway up to about 65MPH. After that, I don't think my reflexes are all that good anymore.

Anyway, standard sizes for the winter tires are best for all the uneven road surfaces. While I wouldn't call any of these add on investments, I could agree with you more as to adding to the enjoyment of the ride and holding onto the vehicle. The dealers want you to trade in every four years, so I go by the way of how many cycles I can go before buying another one.

Anyway, let us know what you do. It should be interesting.

abfisch

55396 · August 2005

Tokico & KYB. At a glance, it seems like the KYB's may be a bit cheaper. I have not nailed it down to a specific strut yet though. I searched on Froogle. Here are the links in case anyone wants to check it out.

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLD%2CGGLD%3A2003-50%2C- GGLD%3Aen&q=kyb+gr2+avalon&btnG=Search+Froogle&sa=N&start=10

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLD%2CGGLD%3A2003-50%2C- GGLD%3Aen&q=tokico+hp+avalon

abfisch · August 2005

I believe Energy Suspension has their own web site with applications for different vehicles. I believe I purchased the bushing from Lightning Motorsports which also had their own website, and we nice to deal with. Wish I could say the same for the local Toyota dealership but their service dept. was inept.

abfisch

abfisch

55396 · August 2005

So far, it looks like around $800 for strut replacement and alignment done locally. I could probably shave that a bit, or quite a bit if I wrenched it myself. I found instructions elsewhere on how to change struts without a spring compressor, or just remove the strut/spring assembly, then take it to a shop to have the springs put on the new struts. At this point, to have the job done seems like pouring sand down a rat hole. Too expensive, unless I plan on keeping the car for many years. I would probably be better off selling my 03 outright and putting the strut money towards a new 06.

While at our one price dealer, we got a price on ours, to see what it would cost to trade. The appraised price was $17,800 with stock wheels, and $18,500 with my 16" American Racing Snipers left on. As a one price dealer, the trade price wasn't inflated, and they offered to buy the car outright at that price. Not bad, considering I paid $19.9 for it when it was less than a year old. Of course I added about $500 worth of stuff with the spoiler, wood grain, gold package, and other smaller items, all purchased online and installed by me. That's about as cost effective as you can get owning a nearly new car. The deal matters, but so does great resale values, something most people don't consider.

I could do still better if I sold the car myself. My yard backs up to a 4 lane county highway and I've sold many of our vehicles by just dialing them in and parking them there. I also type up a nice sheet with the history of the vehicle and why we are selling, as if I were speaking to the buyer. This seems to provide a bit of a comfort level people that it isn't something just being turned to make a buck.

When I say dialing them in, they end up looking sharper than cars on the dealer lots. Armor all is great stuff for this. Try pressure washing the engine compartment, then when it dries, simply spray the entire engine compartment with a light mist. It will migrate and cover everything to make it look like new under the hood. Try it, it's magic.

Thanks again for the feedback, AB.

Jerry

abfisch · August 2005

Jerry:

Thanks. That sounds about right for strut replacements and alignment, in the ballpark normally anyway. You didn't says what the cost of the new car would be, so it is harder to assess which would be best. I personally don't think that $800 is alot for the premium struts once you ride in the car and see how it transforms it, but.....that depends on how long you really keep cars. If you turn them over, and you like the 05/06, then I agree, I would not spend the money. I think I would rather just have a new one.

However, I am much more comfortable upgrading, fixing and working on what I have. Maybe I am just gettin older, but I just started to get comfortable with this 02 after 70K. It took me 1.5 years just to get it correct anyway. My last car I sold at 236K and I would have no problem keeping this for 300K. The new one in addition does not fit my needs as this model does as I mentioned in the past. It does not have a bench seat option and has only 50% of the towing capacity, something I need for my LOG HOME/40 acres. NO...I don't really want a truck, I want a nice big car, that can pull a utility trailer so this worked for me.

Again, the new one is nice, and the speed of it, seems inviting, but it does not add up for some of us as they have changed it. I like the Ford 500 better, if it wasn't a Ford.

Good luck.

abfisch

55396 · August 2005

"You didn't says what the cost of the new car would be"

We drove an XLS with a window of $32k+. Selling price was $30k+. If I could sell mine for $21-22k, and move up 3 years, to a Touring for $25-26k range (I think they list for $27k?), It wouldn't be too hard to take. I think someone posted that one dealer was discounting $3k, and $4k for the touring. Maybe the Touring is a slow seller. But I will probably look for a used one in Arizona this winter or next if I don't do the struts. I suppose I could just do the bushibgs for now. I can live with the struts except when there are passengers in the back or we have the trunk loaded. Then we get the Buick float with no control back there. I HATE that. But this is my wifes car, and she loves it, so I grin and bear it - to a certain extent anyway. She certainly wouldn't have a problem with a new one though.

55396 · August 2005

"You didn't says what the cost of the new car would be"

We drove an XLS with a window of $32k+. Selling price was $30k+. If I could sell mine for $21-22k, and move up 3 years, to a Touring for $25-26k range (I think they list for $27k?), It wouldn't be too hard to take. I think someone posted that one dealer was discounting $3k, and $4k for the touring. Maybe the Touring is a slow seller. But I will probably look for a used one in Arizona this winter or next if I don't do the struts. I suppose I could just do the bushings for now. I can live with the struts except when there are passengers in the back or we have the trunk loaded. Then we get the Buick float with no control back there. I HATE that. But this is my wifes car, and she loves it, so I grin and bear it - to a certain extent anyway. She certainly wouldn't have a problem with a new one though.

udwo · August 2005

I have seen this problem listed here a feew times but no one ever said what the fix was. I have my stereo volume going up and down at times. it is really anoying b/c i only listen to my iPod and it is really distracting. Any ideas?

sanandton · August 2005

I unfortunately can't offer a fix, but only note that I have a 2000 XLS with the same issue. We have had another Stereo put in (factory JBL) for another reason, and it does it also.

55396 · August 2005

How about a spoiler for your Avalon? OE style primed for $72, or factory color match for $138. Just type in Avalon Spoiler on ebay or try this link. I put one of these on mine a year or so ago.

http://search.ebay.com/0-avalon-spoiler_W0QQfromZR7QQfsopZ1QQsatitleZ0Q2aQ20avalonQ20spoil- er

george50 · August 2005

During a turn and brake move there is a loud clicking noise from the front wheel. The rotor and caliper pads look good. Nothing seems loose on the suspension when checked by hand. Has someone else had to deal with this?

abfisch · August 2005

Check the outer CV joint.

abfisch

nrk10 · August 2005

This is my first time posting.

I was wondering if someone would tell me how to program my keyless remote for my 2000 Avalon XL (if not, I would really appreciate it if someone would tell me where I could find this information).

Thanks a lot!

Nick :shades:

rzep3 · August 2005

Does anyone know how to change a serpentine belt on 2001 Avalon ?
Is this really hard ? I think mine is slipping and does not appear
that hard to change this ...

thanks

pcp2 · August 2005

Thank you par_pa for this info. I cleaned the mass air flow with a 1/4" artist brush using a small amount of alcohol. I have over 1500 miles on the car after doing this and NO VSC or CHECK ENGINE light. Thanks again for your help.

insipid2000 · September 2005

I havn't been able to find one yet. Been searching google for hours. I'm looking for a wiring diagram of the wires coming out of the stock head unit and connecting to the amplifier. Anyone have one?

sanandton · September 2005

http://www.logjamelectronics.com/pietoyaux.html
don't know if it is exactly what you are looking for, but may find it in there somewhere. Good luck

bforget · September 2005

Help my 98 is making a very very loud thumping sound but only when we go in reverse????

thanks

kkovak · September 2005

My 2003 Avalon has just started making a strange "ssssssssssshhh" noise when I make a reasonably sharp turn to the right or brake somewhat hard. Sounds like water sizzling on a hot griddle and sounds like it is coming from behind the glove box.

Anyone else ever hear this? Could it be a blocked cowl drain? Anyone know how to access the cowl drains?

Thanks
Ken

soko · September 2005

I went with the CR recommendation for the ZIEX 512s. Bought them online. They're not the high-dollar (paying for marketing hype) tires that some others are (the ones you see on the TV all the time), but they ARE a great tire.

I put them on over 17K miles ago and no problems. They're wearing well (nothing abnormal anyways, can't see any wear).

Very comfortable ride, great handling. Did drive in some snow and didn't notice anything "weird".

I've not done wrong by going with CR best buy products and the ZIEXs are living up to what CR said.

abfisch · September 2005

Couldn't agree more. The only thing I would say CON would be the tire distinctive tire whine, but the sporty ride, superior wet weather traction and the price which was superb, more than make up for it. Very strong tire without all the hoopla.

abfisch

mcclearyfl · October 2005

I purchased my Saab tires at Tire Rack, and had them installed by a Tire Rack recommended dealer in my area. The correct Avalon XLS tire size (16 inch wheels) would be P205-60HR16, and the current Tire Rack price, including shipping to my zipcode, is $384. I paid $80 for expert installation and balancing (very good service but somewhat expensive, I feel).

Goodyear also has a promotion for a $50 gas incentive, which effectively chops a few dollars off the tire price.

Like Abfisch, I wasn't a fan of Goodyear. I'm very happy, however, with these quiet tires on my Saab. My Avalon has the Blizzak winter tires.

abfisch · October 2005

mcclearyfl:

Funny to get on this thread. CR newest publication has a new set of tires comparisons. Would it you know it substantiates what you have said above. Although, I do feel it was rather incomplete, as a bunch of major brands were left out, and too many Michelin tires were in the list, the tire you bought seemed to be at the top of the pack for an AS tire. Sweet.

abfisch

dmontillo · October 2005

We made an offer on a 2001 Avalon, simply love everything about it--except 1 thing. There's a definite rattle seemingly coming from the steering wheel/column and/or dash which is quite annoying. Our offer is contingent upon the Toyota dealership resolving the problem. We were told today that they've now spent 2 days working on it, that they've taken the steering column and dash apart and so far can't find the problem. I'm afraid they'll be giving up on it soon. Did you ever get yours fixed? Solution?

mcclearyfl · October 2005

The problem may not be in the dash or steering wheel. Raise the hood and examine the plastic shroud that is located just below the windshield. Check if it is adequately secured by a plastic stud next to the driver's side fender. If there is free play, it will rattle and drive you (me) crazy. Wedge a piece of plastic or hard rubber under the edge of the cowling and, voila, no rattle!

alan_s · October 2005

mcclearlyfl you are right on. I had the same rattle in my '02 and it was the plastic shroud. I also had a "tick", "tick" noise which drove me insane for months. It sounded like it was coming from the dash or something hitting the windshield, and I took the entire dash apart trying to find it. Actually, the inside of the dash is very well insulated and designed to reduce rattles. I eventually traced it to the windshield wiper motor INSIDE the housing covered by the plastic shroud, on the opposite side of the dash. Sound sure travels.... I tightened the bolts securing the motor to the firewall and no more "ticks".
P.S. No, I didn't have any parts left over after I reassembled the dash!

figaromd · October 2005

the factory shocks and struts do a poor job of absorbing road imperfections. i am thinking of retrofitting with good-quality third party products. can i install air suspension in an '98 avalon? if not, what are my options?
thanks

txgeezer · October 2005

My '99 XL is up for 60,000 scheduled maintenance. Among the various inspections called for in the manual is "Engine valves". All the other inspections -- brakes, brake lines, fuel lines, etc. -- are easy, but doing the valves involves taking off the covers (obviously) which is a big deal on this engine (1MZFE) -- a $450 job at my dealer. I talked to two different dealers who seemed surprised at this scheduled maintenance item; one said if I did it, it would be the first time any owner had had it done since he'd been working there. Anyone here ever have it done? Anyone ever had burned valves from them getting out of adjustment? Any thoughts on a $450 routine maintenance item?

fin · October 2005

Quick answer: Find another dealer. Fast.
My '99 XL was perfect at 92k miles when traded. Never had any valve covers removed. These valves will not get out of adjustment. This is hard to imagine on an otherwise good Avalon.....

oilslick · October 2005

I have a chance to buy one for $9900 at at dealership. I would like to keep it for about 5 yrs. It has 85000 miles. It seems to be in excellent condition inside and out.
Does this sound like a good deal for a 27 yr old single guy? Thanks very much.

txgeezer · October 2005

Thanks for the response, but it leaves me a bit confused. The dealers are saying don't do it, and you're saying don't do it. Why find another dealer?

fin · October 2005

Thought someone (a dealer) had said to do it. The dealers are right. Not necessary. My misread.....

oilslick · October 2005

fin · October 2005

Try this: Drive the car, talk to the dealer (then use Carfax to check on the car), have an independent mechanic look at it, check the price on Edmunds.com and kbb.com. and make your decision.

Avalons can last for years and 200k miles is easily possible with good care. My '99 XL was near perfect at 92k miles when traded. Good luck !!

Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier

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