Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Avalon 2004 and earlier

1…5960626465…70

Comments

  • rzepa1rzepa1 Member Posts: 55
    I am about to replace original battery on my 2000 XL.. Is this as simple as
    it used to be or there are some things I need to be concerned with ?

    Also what would be the best battery replacement ?

    Thanks
  • geolgeol Member Posts: 1
    2001 Avalon.
    Where are the Head Light adjustment screws ? I only found one on the crossbar over the headlight assembly. In the hole there is a blade screw driver slot on one side and a star gear wheel on the other. What adjustment is this ?
    And where is the other adjustment.
    Thank you so much,
    Geo :confuse:
  • alan_salan_s Member Posts: 362
    Very easy to change. One of the best places for batteries is Walmart. They are comparatively inexpensive, have a 2 or 3 year FULL REPLACEMENT warranty, depending on which battery you buy (none of that prorated warranty B.S.) and they will install it for you at no charge.
    I needed a new battery for our Sienna last year. Even with the dealer prorated warranty remaining on the original battery, it was about $30 cheaper to get it from Walmart. The Walmart battery died shortly after, :sick: but they replaced it with a new one, no questions asked. The new one has worked out fine.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Get some aftermarket replacement shocks, either TokicoHP or KYB GR2. You will be very impressed with the change. Get shock tower bushing replacements from Toyota, either from a dealer or via the net, while you are doing this as well. You will need a 4 wheel alignment so figure that into the price as well.

    abfisch
  • scottb7scottb7 Member Posts: 4
    Hello All,

    I'm looking to tweak my 2001 XL.

    First, I want to take out the "roll" when going around a corner.

    Second, when I apply the brakes, I get this slight wobble in the steering wheel. I want to get rid of that. The dealership "checked" it out and said everything was fine (yeah, right!) A buddy of mine checked the wobble, also. He said it could be almost anything and not necessarily the rotors.

    The car was "dinged" in the left rear by a truck a couple of years ago. The repair shop did an alignment after they repaired the crunched rear bumper. They said that it aligned okay.

    I went thru this forum to look for tweaks (abfisch your posts were especially useful) and am thinking about the following:

    NOW:

    Change front and rear sway bar bushings to polyurethane [Energy Suspension]

    Change struts to Tokico HP or KYB GR2 [w/new strut rubber bumpers]

    LATER:

    16" wheels/new tires?? [I have the stock 15" wheels on it. The oem Continentials lasted 28k. I have Dunlops now. How much difference would going to the 16" make?]

    Slotted front rotors and ceramic or semi metallic pads?? Any rotors that stand out?? Should I stay away from the Toyota rotors or would they be okay for the rear??

    WHENEVER:

    The XL didn't have fog lamps. Can you retrofit the stock fogs on the XL??

    Thanks for any advice!!

    Scott
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Scott:

    You wanna buy a nice tweaked out 02 XL. Got one. Just kiddin. I recently bought a used soldier's bmw 325ci so now I have two different vehicles to compare. Now i am not saying the Avalon is a BMW nor vice versa but I can piggyback what you already now.

    The dampers/struts should be a direct fit by a competent shop. Make sure they are a wheel alignment or axle place or some place that does that kind of work on a daily basis, so it is a chip shot for them. Second, go to Toyota and get new strut mounts and rubbber bump stops. Look at the exploded diamgrams they have. As long as you are taking the thing apart, might as well change those too, as they are not that costly. Realize you are taking about $400-$500 for the shocks (TokicoHP) and another $100 for the other parts, plus labor, plus tax and add an alignment on that. Plan on keeping the car awhile then.

    The energy suspension bushings are easy to do by yourself, but they are not a totally direct fit, as I believe I remember that they were not listed for my year at least 3 years ago. Maybe now they are. Nevertheless, the front bar is 18mm and I believe the rear was 16mm. The rear ones were a piece of cake, the front were painful, and you need a small racheting wrench and I cannot remember the size. Go buy, a tube of (cheap) Blue Marine Grease, and lubricate the OD and ID of them, this way they will not squeek.

    Those two changes will drasitcally affect your Avalon although not make it harsh in anyway. It will be more like a Police Interceptor (Crown Vic with a heavy duty suspension).

    Anyways, I have 16" wheels along with 15" wheels. The 16" tires are 215/55 H or V 16" Continentals Eco plus, the same that used to go on the old E-series Mercedes. They do give better transient response without make it nutso, but the 15" tires that I have (Falken Ziex) are so sporty, that if I had to do it over again in retrospect, I think that for the money, it was wasted, unless you have to have the lower profile tire. The difference and the biggest bang for the buck is in the suspension parts, the superior parts, not really in the difference between the 15 and 16" wheels and tires. Yes, there is a difference but clearly, the shocks were the biggest thing.

    Regarding the brakes. If the only time you get a shimmy is when you apply the brakes, guess what. It is the brakes. The rotors are warped.

    I replaced mine with Slotted and Drilled Rotors. I think they are superior but realize I pull a small 5 x 8 trailer weekly with my Avalon, sometimes with a ton of dirt or mulch. Wiith different pads, it does grab much quicker and because the struts, the front does not nearly dip at high speeds anymore. That being said, the CONS are, more front and rear brake dust(I hate cleaning wheels) and a small rumble when the brakes are applied at the slots hit the pads. (Mechanics hate this but that is how they function). Pad wear is accelerated too, so the life of the pads are reduced.

    FOG LAMPS: I drive in terrible weather. I am not sure where you are located. We go through white out conditions sometimes.
    First, replace your headlamps with PIAA or Sylvania brighter bulbs. That will give you better illumination under regular conditions.

    Second, if you need FOG LAMPS or AUXILLARY Driving lamps, I installed a long time ago now, PIAA 1500, two sets, both under the front grill, with sheet metal screws to under the bumper. They came out perfect. The FOG lights are relayed to the low beams and the Aux driving lights relayed to the high beams. Go to Toyota, and get two Toyota Toggle Switches that fit perfectly into the dummy holes in the lower fascia of the dash, under the steering column. You do not have VSC and there is another dummy cover there. This worked out super, and OEM looking. You don't even know I have the lumens I do, unless you are driving at night. Put the Fog lamps to the outside and the driving lamps if you desire to the center. PIAA may have others, but these were perfect in dimensions, at least 5" in width and no more than 2.75" in height, so the beam is wide and low and supplement the halogens well.

    Hope that is technical enough for you.

    Good luck.

    abfisch
  • scottb7scottb7 Member Posts: 4
    abfisch,

    Thanks for the reply!

    I hope to get the struts/bushings done by the end of this year. I'll let the Forum know how I make out. Next year for the brakes, etc.

    Your comments about the fogs and replacing the headlamps have piqued my interest. The ol' night vision ain't what it used to be. I'll have to give that a good looking into.

    Thanks again for your comments!

    Scott
  • txcharlietxcharlie Member Posts: 1
    I just programmed my wife's 2000 Avalon by following these instructions. Hope they help. It may take several attempts to get the timing right, but it will work. Took me about 15 tries. My problem was holding down the lock and unlock in step 9, too long. The 1 to 1.5 second note was not on my instructions.

    Toyota keyless remote programming instructions

    Programming:

    1)Driver's door open, all other doors closed, key removed from ignition
    switch.

    2)Insert key into ignition switch, then remove it.

    3)Press LOCK and UNLOCK on the vehicle door lock control switch at 1 second
    intervals 5 times.

    4)Close and re-open driver's door.

    5)Press LOCK and UNLOCK on the vehicle door lock control switch at 1 second
    intervals 5 times.

    6)Insert key into ignition switch.

    7)Switch ignition ON and OFF once to Add a remote, twice to re program a remote, three times to check number of Fobs programmed, and five times to erase all codes registered.

    8)Remove key from ignition switch:
    a)System should now lock unlock vehicle. Once , twice or five times
    depending which mode has been selected. One to four times, slowly to
    indicate number of remote transmitters registered.

    9)Press and hold remote transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons, together for 1 to 1.5 seconds and release.

    10)Press LOCK remote button for 1 second:
    a)System should now lock and unlock vehicle once to confirm, twice to
    indicate registration has failed.

    11)If required repeat button procedure to program remaining remote
    transmitters.

    NOTE: To exit programming mode: Close driver's door or insert ignition key.

    NOTE: A maximum of 4 remote transmitters can be programmed.
  • kflanigankflanigan Member Posts: 7
    I just thought I'd post my experience today...
    I recently picked up my Avalon from the body shop after having some small parking lot dings fixed. I was away on vacation for two weeks while they did this work (excellent).
    I didn't drive the car all week until last night and noticed that the blower motor wasn't working. Long story short...took blower motor out and found it packed with Horse Chestnuts...probably a hundred of them. Some industrious rodent packed a stash there during my absence!

    An hour and a half trouble shooting and cleaning saved me big $$$ vs. taking it to a dealer.

    Thought you'd enjoy.. :D

    Kevin
    Minnetonka MN
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Heard of "going nuts" over an Avalon.....but this is....hmmmmm :)
  • koolkinkajoukoolkinkajou Member Posts: 15
    Friend of my mine got in a serious accident when he claims his brakes locked up on his 2002 Avalon when he had to stop suddenly.
    I'm not sure if he applied them correctly, but it might be worth while testing them out to see if they really work.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Doesn't surprise me. The brakes stick are they weather as the pads in the caliper suppose to slide on the mounting bolts. Have always had trouble with the rears, not so much the fronts, but inferior Toyota quality on these parts too.

    abfisch
  • ctalbotctalbot Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Avalon which I purchased used. I live in Canada and in the winter when the heating system is set to auto the air selector is automatically set to blow heat out at the floor level. If I change it to blow heat from both the floor level and the windshield level, it changes from auto to manual. In other words, I can't use the auto temp selector and at the same time have the air come out anywhere except at the floor level. This is a problem because the windshield fogs up without the extra air coming from the windshield vents. Is this normal?
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Someone with auto-temp will need to answer your post, mine does not have it. This is exactly why mine does not have it. The auto-temp is a known weakness in all 2004 and prior Avalons. They have various issues. Scroll back thru all the many posts over the years and you can read all about it.

    The struts and front brakes are the other usual suspects in these cars.. and watch for battery corrosion around the negative post. But after that, they are great cars. On my second, an '03 XL. Enjoy your Avy. :)
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    i have a 96 avalon with auto temp. i typically dont play with the auto during winter. you could always use the defrost mode to clear the windshield. maybe the login in the auto climate control unit is designed to blow heat below at first and then slowly start to blow onto the windshield. Just a guess. i"ll try on mine.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Fin:

    Ditto. 02 Avalon XL. Put on my own gismos. Auto temp. is another sham on the consumer as is Navigation. Nothing that a large print AAA atlas and a compass would not do. Could not spend the extra 3K for that stuff when I know it is going to break or not work right in the first place.

    Discs breaks, especially rear discs in the northen states are another sell. Drum brakes have much less problems with rust and corrosion as they are protected somewhat. Ask any mechanic. My old civic rears never gave me any trouble through multiple Vermont and upper New York state winters. Avalon rears doing every two years minimum, just to get them movin and working right.

    Struts issues are resolved with premium dampers. While costly, very worthwhile if keeping the car. Not quite BMW like, but much more controlled.

    abfisch
  • mark_hmark_h Member Posts: 3
    I'm trying to replace the cabin air filter on a 2002 Avalon. Though it is easily seen with the glove box open, I do not know how to get to it. On our 2002 Camry, you press in the pivots on the side of the glove box, it drops down and you pull out the filter. On the Avalon, I removed the 3 top screws, the bottom screw and the bottom right bolt. I also removed the passenger side kick panel. The glove box still did not move. Do you have any ideas on how to gain access to the filter? Thanks
  • 66gman66gman Member Posts: 12
    sounds like you got all the fastners, now take hold of the upper part and at the same time likewise on the bottom. Give a hard steady pull as it is held by several clips. This should do it. I was at the same spot you're in, called the dealer and he said as above
    hope this helps
  • bwiabwia Member Posts: 2,913
    Returning to my car in the parking lot today, there was an identical Silver Spruce Avalon XLS parked next to me. I thought I was seeing double but the other car had some dry cleaning in it so I know it was not mine.

    When I pressed my remote entry fob both cars chirped and the lights on both cars flickered. After I started my car and drove off the alarm on the other came on.

    So my question to you boardies, what are the chances that both cars are programmed with the same key code and would my key actually start the engine of the other car? Was that coincidence or is this a serious security risk and should I report this to Toyota?
  • glubashglubash Member Posts: 19
    I have a '98 Avalon with the same problem as described here:

    nguyet, "Toyota Avalon Owners: Problems & Solutions" #83, 10 Jan 2003 9:59 am

    After a little research, the TSB number is:
    AC005-99 DEC 99 A/C - ATC Indicators Intermittently Inoperative

    It appears that average repair runs about $700-$800.

    Glubash
  • cbutlercbutler Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 xls and I was changing the battery and the battery connectors- when I finished, I drove the car into the garage and at that time I noticed that the tachometer, odometer, spedometer, gas gauge, temp, etc was not working. I checked all the fuses and they were fine. Also I had a toyota technician check the problem and they had no luck. Does anyone have any suggestions? They would be greatly appreciated- especially since I cannot tell how fast I am driving, how much gas is in the car, etc....Thanks!
  • deepandeepan Member Posts: 342
    why dont you try disconnecting the battery again, leave for a few minutes and connect. this will resest pretty much everything and hopefully everything will turn out fine.
  • samchinchsamchinch Member Posts: 47
    You need to have your air conditioner recharged. Your air conditioner coolant is low and it is boiling and that is what you hear is the pressure from it boiling going through the system.
  • bwiabwia Member Posts: 2,913
    I am getting the itch to replace my 2000 Avalon XLS. It has 47,000 miles and has been trouble-free except for a roof leak that was repaired under warranty.

    I have looked at the new Avalon but I am under-whelmed. The new Hyundai Azera looks nice but I am a bit concerned about resale value.

    Just as I was reluctantly thinking of getting a new Avalon, Toyota comes out with the 2007 Camry which has a lot of visual appeal, size, and refinement that makes the Avalon look staid. So as soon as the new Camry is available I might be bringing home a new XLE.

    Meanwhile, it will be a shame to trade in my current Avalon as I know the dealer will seriously low-ball me.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    bwia:

    Resist the itch at all costs. The new Hyundai is very nice, but it is a first year model. Don't do it. The newer Avalon, allow improved in some areas, is now degraded in other areas(towing capacity, trunk space, 6 passenger, etc). If you 00 is good, and it was a first model year, upgrade the suspension to make you smile. You must have near 100K at this time anyway, unless you have already changed your struts.

    Resist at least until the newer models have been out awhile.

    abfisch
  • bwiabwia Member Posts: 2,913
    abfisch,

    I have 47,000 original miles on my 00 Avalon and it is in mint condition. I remember you writing about upgrading your suspension but I wonder about cost (more than a $1,000) and handling characteristics.

    To be honest, I prefer a semi-soft cushy ride, that's why the "Euro-sedan" feel has never really appealed to me. From what I have read and seen, next to the Avalon, the Azera comes closet to my tastes and preferences.

    Nevertheless, the Azera is not cheap; and being a first year model is not of much concern to me since the car is assembled in South Korea and is a mirror image of an existing model the Grandeur.

    But my point was/is since the new Camry XLE is so well equipped and looks much more aesthetically pleasing than the Avalon, (or the Azera for that matter) maybe the Camry is a better alternative to the Avalon/Azera dilemma. Choices, choices….

    .
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    bwia:

    I would have to agree with you, although the Camry is the first model year too, which would exclude it from a purchase for some. Nevertheless, the difference b/w the Avalon and Camry now remains to be seen but to some small.

    I would wait then, and compare the Azera to the Camry next year. That should give you more to go on.

    abfisch
  • terrymacterrymac Member Posts: 5
    Anyone know where else to buy a master key with chip for my '99 Avalon XLS? Does the dealer have to program or can you do it yourself? Dealer wants $46 for key and $48 for programming! I just want a second key that works. Thanks.
  • garagedudegaragedude Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone have any experience with using Synthetic ATF oil? I have been swapping in Penzoil Synthetic ATF, and am hoping I am not creating any problems. Car is a 2002 Avalon with 90k miles.
  • disco340disco340 Member Posts: 17
    If your talking about the keypad, then yes you should be able to program it yourself. I can e-mail you the instructions if you give me your e-mail address.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hey guys, please do not post your email address. If you want someone (a registered, logged-in member) to be able to see it, just make it public in your profile. Thanks.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    I have been using Sythetic in my ATF for the last two changes. I have 78K on an 02 also. I tow a trailer quite a bit. No negative effects with either to date. I do have a good habit of backing off on the accelerator just before upshifts, which deloads the tranny. Change the ATF and filter every 30K, as again, I use a utility traier for our property quite a bit.

    abfisch
  • goat2goat2 Member Posts: 1
    WOULD 20' INCH RIMS FIT MY VEHICLE.
  • lobermeyerlobermeyer Member Posts: 1
    My 96 Avalon LX has just reached 149,000. Has all the bells and whistles (sunroof, leather, gold trim) and it still looks GREAT. No major repairs (just routine maintenance and 2 CV joints) until now. But, I think 145000 was the magic number. Both front struts have collapsed in the last 6 weeks; then heard a small whine from the power steering pump a few days ago. It's in the shop now and needs steering rack replaced along with the struts. It has the original timing belt (the only receommended service item not performed). My dilemma is this - how much more time is reasonably left on the AC, heater coil, transmission, exhaust system? My current needed repairs along with a timing belt will be close to $3000. If another major component goes in the next 6-8 months I will have atleast $4000 invested in a 10 year old car. I would like to get another 50,000 miles out of it (or 1 more year). I would appreciate any and all opinions!
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Here are some things to consider:

    1. The car is 10 years old. Age will cause things to fail as much as mileage. Parts rust, corrode, rot, crack, etc., at this point. Look around for signs of age....

    2. Avalons are capable of 200k miles if properly maintained. If you have done everything right from the beginning, that's a good start to 200k.

    3. Suspension parts are reasonable failures at this point in the car's life. So is anything else failing except the engine and transmission.

    4. Do you drive in snow? Canada? Road chemicals? Lots of dust in the desert in the western U.S.? Florida sand? These extremes can shorten the life of anything if you do it all the time.

    5. Ever change the belts and hoses you can see? The timing belt is l-o-n-g overdue. This is a major problem if it fails.

    6. For maybe $12k and this car you can move up to a much younger car. What is your budget? If you have it, this might be a time to trade up. If not... just do what is necessary.

    No one can predict the future. Other forum members may have more ideas...... My '99 XL was perfect thru 92k miles and 4 years. Probably would have gone 200k easily on the engine and transmission. Other parts, who knows. Hope this helps....
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Member Posts: 24
    Does anyone have the programming instructions for 98 Avalon XLS?
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Member Posts: 24
    I was doing about 35 miles on a flat road one day and I suddenly realised that the engine is reving,but I am loosing speed.I pulled over, put the car in park, then drive and continue on my way.Two minutes later I checked the tranny fluid and it was ok.I would like to know if my tranny is dying.The engine is operating just fine and the car is operating just fine,no complain.I am loosing sleep over the tranny. :(:(
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Member Posts: 24
    It is programming instructions for a key.I do have the master key. :)
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Member Posts: 24
    The car has 106K ON it.
  • 54gradsteds54gradsteds Member Posts: 102
    Re: message # 3172: (programming for a remote key for a 2000 Avalon). Does this Rube Goldberg procedure actually work? Does the same procedure work for a '95 Avalon? My dealer wants about a hundred bucks PER REMOTE to fix mine. BOTH of my remotes stopped working at the same time, yet the dealer insists that I need two new units. Sounds pretty fishy to me! Is there someone out there with a '95 who has a REAL fix for this?
  • garagedudegaragedude Member Posts: 5
    I searched E-bay for 2002 avalon remote transmitter, and 2002 avalon ignition key. I bought a key with chip for $8, and a new remote (with same numbers on back as my original unit) for $59, and a second used one for $14. When I saw the programming instructions, I thought I had been had! Really crazy - however programmed both the key and the car for the new transmitter without a hitch! I had the new blank key with chip cut at HOME DEPOT for nothing. The car allows up to 4 programmed transmitters. Not sure about your 95 avalon - probably similar. Dealer wanted almost $180 for this work!!!!!!
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Depends. Too many variables. If you like the car and it serves your needs, then I think it is worth it. Although wihtout changing your timing belt, doing the struts at 150K, never changing the power steering fluid, and probably not changing the tranny fluid alot, you do not sound like the kind of person that likes car maintenance. Nothing personnel but if you need the car and do not want it in the shop and it is your only car, that might be a consideration. Nevertheless, 4K for 50K miles equates to 16K for 2000K miles. Cannot get a that size car for 16K so still worth it.

    abfisch
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Member Posts: 24
    It seems like most people here are crying about shocks on their Avalon,so do I.It is approaching 1 year (April 11)since I bought my 98 XLS for 8200 with 87k on it and I love it very much(I think 98/99 is the best looking Avalon).Everytime I run over a bump there is a rattling sound comming from the left rear of the car.I checked it out myself and found that it the bushing that is bad.Seeing that It is a hassle to change,I want to make one thing and change the entire shocks.Does anyone have any suggestions on shocks?I work on my car myself,I only go to the mechanic when the job is too big for me or in the winter time.I changed my trannt oil myself on 3/10,it was a breeze. :):) Oh,I want shocks that are not too hard and I plan on keeping the car for a very looooong time.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Forum member *abfisch* has abundant knowledge on this model Avalon as to suspension repairs and replacement parts. His posts here discuss many modified and improved parts. Likely he will help you out when he reads your post. Keep checking....
  • founda98founda98 Member Posts: 11
    Programming instructions for 1998 Toyota Avalon Remote with the following ID.

    FCC ID: HYQ 1512 Y
    CAN: 1551 102 578
    RSS - 210
    DENSO

    1. Open driver's door.

    2. Insert and remove key from ignition.

    3. Cycle power door locks Lock - UnLock 5 times.

    4. Close the door and open it again.

    5. Cycle door locks 5 times again.

    6. Insert the key and turn it to ON - OFF - ON - OFF and remove.

    You will hear the locks cycle.

    7. After that, press BOTH Lock and Unlock buttons of the remote together
    at the same time, then push the one button with the bump on it. (Lock)

    If the door locks cycle ONCE, you're done.

    If they cycle twice, it didn't take..... Just push the buttons (Step 7) again.

    If you wait too long between steps you'll have to start over again.

    IMPORTANT NOTE:

    If you are ADDING a second remote you must repeat Step 7 on the other remote right after the first remote is done so they both obtain the same code.
  • founda98founda98 Member Posts: 11
    Just purchased a 2003 XL and the low and high beams don't illuminate far enough down the road. Does anyone have the procedure to aim them or know where the aiming adjustment is located?

    Also - does anyone have experience installing 9005 (65 watt highbeam bulb) in lowbeam socket (9006)?

    Many thanks in advance....
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for your input.
  • omaibraz5omaibraz5 Member Posts: 24
    I do not have the code to reactivate my radio and I have to disconect my battery in the near future.I would like to know if another Avalon code can work on my car.If it can work,can someone please provide me with the code and instructions on how to reprogramme the radio? 98 XLS.Love my baby :D:):D:):D
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Bad news: The codes are unique to a car.. the code from my car or from some other Avalon will not help you. Go to a local dealer with the car and use the vehicle serial number to research the code. It's available that way. Others may have a different idea..... hope this helps.

    If you are just replacing the battery.. hook up another one before disconnect and keep the system powered as you put in the replacement. The dealers do this when they replace batteries. You need to be careful, but it works.
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    I apologize for not proofreading my last post. I sounded stupid.

    Now, Oh...yes, your Avalon probably could use at 87K new bushings and shocks. What I would do, and what I did do was on a 02 Avalon XL, as I felt the suspension was inadequate for my needs, not anyone elses. I am not a bells and whistles person, and that is why I bought the XL.

    The struts/shocks/dampers need replacement for the front and rears. My experience is with the Tokico HP brand, which is a twin-tube design low pressure gas shock. KYB GR2 I have heard very good reports about too, but I have the former on my Avalon. It is not too harsh and improves the car, IMO, very much, but not to a point that it does not feel like a luxury crusier. You will have to get a 4 wheel alignment too, so figure that into the price. You should also replace the top shock mounts and bump stops, which you can get from Toyota as long as you are taking things apart.

    If you want to go further into things, then a company called Energy Suspension, has PU(polyurethane graphite impregnated bushings) for the front and rear control arms and for the front and rear sway bars. These coupled with the shocks will transform your car into something close to a car that handles much better than it looks. It will put a smile on your face at the same time as the car will not lean or bow on hard braking anymore.

    Caveat: Changing the bushings has a couple of small drawbacks you should know about. First, the shocks make more of a difference and they are more expensive to replace than the bushings. Second, replacing the bushings with PU type bushings, specially made for your year and model, will transmit more harshness, not so much vibration through the chassis. You will fill it to some extent. I don't mind it as it is worth the trade off however minor but so do. The car comes with rubber bushings and you could just replace those with new ones too. Although, you will get more flex, and thus will not get as good as handling effects as with PU bushings. Thirdly, PU bushings after awhile tend to squeak a little. Using generous amounts of marine grease tends to allay this but about every two years, I wind up taking the brackets off and regreasing the sway bars bushings. Not hard to do, like chassis greasing should be done, but nevertheless more maintenance than a rubber bushing.

    The sway bar bushing you can put on yourself but the control arm bushing you will need a press to get out the old ones. Better let someone who does it on a daily basis do that unless you have the correct tools.

    hop[e this helps.

    abfisch
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles