Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Older Acura TLs

11213151718292

Comments

  • Headroom is an issue with us as well. With our recent TL purchase, and yes we compared the Honda 3.0 EX to the TL :( (sorry) - my wife and I both thought the TL had less headroom than the Honda. Looking at the specs, however, the Honda is supposed to have 38.5 inches front headroom, and the TL 39.9 - over an inch more headroom. It must have been the seat position during the test drives or something. Now that we have lived with the TL for a few weeks, headroom has been fine in the TL.

    Second comment on the TCS - we have it on our 98 Ford Windstar. I've been surprised a couple of times to have the green "TCS Active" light come on when starting out or turning and the wheels slipped - didn't even realize the road was slick.
  • I have 2000 Acura 3.2TL and since my first servicing I have a very high frequency vibration in my steering wheel. During long drive it almost numbs my hand, which is very annoying.

    I have taken to my dealer and they balanced my wheels twice. I also took it to a third party mechanic and they did a "high-speed" alignment. But to no use.

    Does anyone has/had this issue with their TL? If yes, how did they get it fixed?
  • I am considering the purchase of an Acura 3.2TL. The product brochure states that 91 octane fuel is "recommended for best performance, etc." In our area, 91 octane is just under $2.00 /gallon. I am not a high performance type driver, so some compromise in power, etc., would not really bother me. However, I am more concerned about any long term risks to the engine and other components if I were to consistently use 87 (regular) octane fuel. Has anyone used both octane ratings? Is there any difference in fuel economy or performance? Any possibility of mechanical damage with 87 octane being used all the time?
  • ruskiruski Posts: 1,566
    hey the manual is not necessarily written for high performance drivers either. Just do what they tell you.
  • Hello there

    Can anybody clearly explain to me what does it mean
    "...having only the seating surfaces upholstered in leather..."
    Does it mean that some other luxiry car seats are made
    completely of leather? Is it a big difference from the viewpoint
    of comfort?
  • ruskiruski Posts: 1,566
    Rolls-Royce's seats are covered entirely in leather.
  • Hey, I'm planning on buying an Acura RL 2000, so I am going to sell my car. It doesn't have a navigation system and it has gone around 11,500 miles. It is in excellent condition, and I'm selling for $25,999. Please reply back and tell me what you think. Is the price sound fair? Thanks alot.
  • That price does seem a lttle high. TL production has caught up and my dealer has 20 on the lot. They offered me one for $1000 over invoice ($25,738) without haggling. I could probably get it for $300 over invoice, just before the end of the year, about $26,000 for a new 2001. You may want to adjust your price down just a tad.

    -Ron
  • Thanks for replying. Really appreciated it.
  • nlo1nlo1 Posts: 1
    I just read the post by RON MENDEL and he stated that he could get the new 2001 TL for $26,000. RON, where is your dealership at? I am in the Chicago area looking for a new TL with Nav. I really don't care if it is a 2000 TL with Nav as long as it's still new. The dealer in my area offered $29,767. What do you think about the price? What do you guys think is a good price that I should ask for from my dealership? Thanks!!

    -Nelson
  • I HAVN'T HAD THE MISFORTUNE TO HAVE TO REPLACE ONE YET, BUT, IF AND WHEN I DO, IS THERE AN ALTERNATIVE TO PAYING $250 / $275?
    I RECENTLY SPOKE TO ANOTHER OWNER OF A 99 TL WHO HAD JUST LAID OUT ABOUT $275 TO REPLACE ONE BULB. I LIKE THE HID LIGHTS BUT THEY ARE NOT THAT MUCH BETTER THAN A GOOD HALOGEN. CAN THESE SYSTEMS BE CONVERTED TO HALOGEN? ANY IDEA HOW MUCH IT WOULD COST?
    THANKS
    PEDDLER
  • I sure would like to know where that dealer is,too. The invoice sounds a little low. More like $26200 for a non-navi. Unless, they are giving you hold back(2%) The big dealerships are dumping their inventory to prepare for the TL type S, anyway. Anyone have pictures yet?
  • mhammy84mhammy84 Posts: 167
    never have I heard ANYBODY wanting to go from HID lights to Halogens. Why would you want to do such a thing...the only things I hear about are kits converting Halogens to HIDs. Anyhow, you are worried that your HID bulbs will blow out...HID bulbs NEVER "blow out" like conventional halogens. Besides, they never need replacement, are noticeable much quicker to the human eye, and are so much brighter and reflect signs and markings much better than conventional halogens...so i dont see how you figure that HID lights "...are not that much better than a good halogen." Was it that your friend must have hit something in order to damage the light, in which case, the costs could possibly be covered by insurance?
  • Why in the heavens would you want you replace HIDs with halogens ?!!! Also, HIDs are supposed to last for the entire life of the car....you would not have to replace one for 10 or more years..

    Later...AH
  • The dealer I talked to was Hoehn Acura/Audi in Carlsbad CA. They have a glut of TL's and are discounting them heavily, especially before year-end. Make them a killer offer and don't back down.
  • Reason? Cost. But if they last that long it doesn't matter. I live in the northwest and occasionally drive the mountains at night. The halogens on my BMW seem to do as well.
    Thanks for the comments.
    Peddler
  • mhammy84mhammy84 Posts: 167
    you're contradicting yourself by saying that the HID lights are costly. It was already explained that HID light bulbs (actually, tubes) never need replacement, a cost advantage over halogens which need to be replaced from time to time. With the fancy headlamp assemblies out there, even for halogens, replacing a broken housing would be costly both ways I am sure. Besides, HIDs provide a wider beam of light...one that I have heard many others who live in your region (many who drive in the mountains) claiming that they bought a car with HIDs BECAUSE of those night mountain drives. Your opinion is very interesting!
  • Test Message #2
  • its almost like GM cannot get the proper mix of affordability, reliability, looks and performance. The Chevy line up is affordable but reliability and resale is bad. Pontiac ups the performance, but GM packages the plastic and the garish styling to go with it. Cadillac has looks and performance, but reliability isnt what you can expect for the money you pay. Olds had the best balance of looks, performance and build quality, but GM is now closing it. Isuzu and Suzuki are new entrants but they are facing stiff competition in the truck and econo-car segments. Looks like GM needs to clean up its act soon or it will end up becoming a wholesale supplier for the rental car companies.
  • interkot,

    Most car makers only install leather trim on seating surfaces. That means usually the sides of the seats, the seat backs, the door inserts are really vinyl.
  • And for the performance freaks that own 3.2TLs. I tested my 2K 3.2TL with a Gtech pro this weekend(did 4 runs-2 each way) with my recently installed comptech headers. Prior to this I had installed Comptech cat-back exhaust and I also installed about 2 months back a AEM Cold Air intake. The improvement in 0-60 is quite impressive, and it basically shows that you don't need to trade up that 3.2TL for a TYpe-S TL if you crave performance.

    My low and high 0-60 numbers were 6.14 & 6.42
    After averaging the 4 times I came op with a 6.33 0-60.

    To get more accurate numbers, I am planning on going to the track in early spring to see what it will do when timed by the tracks equipment in the 1/4 mile. From the seat of the pants feel, it definately seems like it is quite a bit faster than it was with just exhaust on it.
  • We have had our 2000 non-nav blue TL for just over a year now and the car is still quite wonderful. I only have one minor complaint and that is related to phantom noises. The car is generally one of the quietest I have owned BUT there are certain recurring noises that seem to be sensitive to temperature. I have traced one of the sounds to the rear pillar on the driver's side (this would be just to the left of someone sitting behind the driver in the rear seat). I could be driving the car for an hour with no noise but if I hit a minor bump or patch of uneven road, this initiates a creak/click from the rear pillar area that does not go away. Seems to happen more when it is cold outside and the noise can be stopped by pressing on the interior trim over the pillar. The next time I bring the car for service I will ask the dealer to look at this--probably can be solved by sticking some tape or velcro beneath the trim.

    The other noise, that also seems to happen more when it is cold, is a creaking from the drivers seat. Seems to especially happen when I accelerate and sounds like plastic against plastic.
  • dwedddwedd Posts: 1
    I've dropped off the discussion for a while (I think that last time I was checked in was around part 3 so forgive me if this topic has been beaten into the ground).

    I guess I'm a creature of habit. I'm used to changing oil every 3K mi. Though their not required, I've kept changing the oil @ 3k mi. I have 14k mi on my '00 TL. Now would be the tima for another 3K oil change so do I do it or wait until ~17K?

    Thanx!--
  • You forgot my first note---they don't always last forever. I encountered an owner at a dealer who had just replaced a bulb that blew. It cost him $275. Maybe they should, but don't always. Remember, in the mountains at night those hids are only part of the package. The brights are halogens.

    As far as efficiency. The halogens on the BMW are accompanied by fogs that add to the pattern width. they both are good.
  • I am wondering when other TL owners changed the oil for the first time. I have always changed my oil every 3K, and was told by the dealer that it is important that I run the car for 7K before I change the oil for the first time. I was told that there is a break-in oil that is important to the engine. I have never run a car this long, and am having trouble with the thought of doing this.

    Any thoughts from others would be welcomed.
  • soberssobers Posts: 496
    I happened to read FAQ at the Honda for my Accord's oil change. The oil Honda puts is really diff. to handle the break in period when there could be some particles/impurities coming off. So Honda advises 7500 for the first oil change. BUT my dealer reccomended 3750 due to severe weather conditions & stop n go traffic in our city. IT IS UP TO U to decide whether u drive it the way or in a condition that requires early oil change ?

    Even in any case I think, 3750-4000K is proper mileage for oil change. U may choose to 4750.
    Do what dealer reccommends as resale value depends on how u maintain ur vehicle.
  • I hope Acura is planning on building a ton of Type S models. That car is going to fly off the lots.
  • varmitvarmit Posts: 1,125
    After dreaming about this car for almost a year, my wife and I finally sat down with a salesman, talked numbers, and agreed on a price. We got $26,700 for an Emerald Green 2001 non-navi through Priceline.com. My wife doesn't trust me to install the spoiler, so we had to add $600 (ugh) for the dealer to do it.

    Pick up is in two weeks. I'm a happy camper.
Sign In or Register to comment.