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Oldsmobile Alero

1…5455575960

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    comjetwithmecomjetwithme Member Posts: 7
    yes, As soon as I hook the battery up, all the sounds go off.... I got into the car.. held down the lock button and the went off after a little bit... the red little light was flashing still. I was able to start the car. I tryed to put the car in "D" The automatic shifter wouldn't move. its like it is locked up and wont alow me to put it in drive. I shut the car off.. i got out of car and the sound went off.. I unhooked the battery cable again and it stoped? Appreciate you help.....
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    imissnumber3imissnumber3 Member Posts: 1
    Ignition Key Won't Turn SOLVED.

    1999 Grand Am. The Ignition key will not turn. The ignition lock is in the dashboard, not the steering column. I tried all keys many times over many days. I jiggled it, cranked the steering wheel, rocked the car, sprayed it with graphite based "Lockease" & swore, etc. GM dealers want $500-$600 to fix. Local Locksmiths range from $300-$400 to fix. They all want to replace the lock cylinder.

    I found a local Locksmith who said he would repair (rebuild) my lock for $150 if I bring him the car. Here's the key. He said to insert the key in the ignition and tap on it a few times with the handle of a medium sized screwdrivver, then try to turn it. BINGO, it turns now. He said if this works, the lock will only last a short time and needs to be rebuilt. He will get my business, even though I found another Locksmith who would do it cheaper. Hope this helps someone.
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    That's good information. You were lucky. My guy tried everything along with the tapping but couldn't get it to turn. He said if he could get it to turn just once it would greatly simplify the job because the lock cylinder can now be removed from the front and all the dash dissasembly becomes unnecessary. Though,I am not sure if I would get the old one rebuilt for $150. You can get a new one for $85.
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    lralexlralex Member Posts: 2
    I called Oldsmobile customer service to find out whether or not this was covered under the recall and was told the repair was. I then took my car to the dealer and when they put in my VIN no recalls or campaigns came up (I have a 2002 Alero). I then called back to customer service and they did further research and then told me that this repair is actually covered under a "special policy". the rep said that this wasn't something that was widely advertised because then "everyone would be calling for repairs". I thought that was a crock, but I took my car in and my turn signals and hazard lights have been working since (I took it in 2 days ago). When I looked at the repair bill that would be submitted to GM it said the total cost was $62.00. If it helps, I spoke with Brandon Wilson @ 866-790-5700 x21457. LOL Call customer service first at 800-630-6537 and if you don't get this same information then give Brandon a call. :-) Hope this helps.
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    asdfagfhafdasdfagfhafd Member Posts: 2
    Whenever i drive down the street, i occasionly have a problem with my blinker. It just doesn't blink at all. i have to click my hazard light to make it work. i don't know what to do. what should i do?
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    This is the hazzard switch recall. Follow the suggestions above.
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    I developed a small leak under the drivers side of the engine which I can see on my garage floor. I am pretty sure it is auto trans fluid. I found the red plastic cap under the hood marked trans fluid and don't see any fluid level in there. Of course the manual is no help here. It just says no fluid needs to be added unless there is a leak and then take it to the dealer. Any one else ever check this fluid? Do you know if the fluid level is near the top of fill hole? Any thoughts on the leak?
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    burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The leak could possibly be from one of the cooler lines, I believe they connect to the transaxle right about where your saying you see the leak spot.
    The only way to check the fluid level is by removing the plug on the side of the trans case, near the front, on the passenger side. This plug is right at the proper fill level. It needs to be from underneath, and of course the trans should be warmed up and the engine running (do not remove the plug with the engine off). That red cap is removed for filling only.
    You may want to search the Grand Am forum, myself and others have detailed the procedure for changing and refilling the fluid, which should help.
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    I searched the Grand Am forum as suggested and couldn't come up with any procedures for this. I did find one post by you titled: Changing Transmission Fluid. The only thing it said was to use the sight hole in the trans as the shop manual suggests. I don't have a shop manual but should be able to find this plug. Hopefully, I will have some time tomorrow to check it out.
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    Grrrr! I just got out my old trusty set of steel ramps so I could crawl under the Alero and check the leak. The body is too low on the Alero for the ramps, the front end hits before the tire reaches the ramp. I did a quick serach on the net and it looks like I need plastic Rhino Ramps. Now I have to go to Walmart tomorrow and see if they have them. Anyone else want to tell me how they get under their Alero to work on it?
    Thanks,
    Mike
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    alltogetherookalltogetherook Member Posts: 8
    Is there a trick to removing the spark plugs on the 6 cyl.?
    My DH got 4 of the boots removed but is really struggling to get the other two. Does he HAVE to buy the spark plug boot pliers?
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    burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I use a floor jack under the jacking point and then use jackstands. My ramps are useless these days also except for the SUV.
    I searched for the posts detailing the fluid change myself in both the GA and Alero forums and can't find it. Must be using the wrong search words. Hummmm, will have to think about it a little.
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    macboardzmacboardz Member Posts: 4
    Can anyone provide any thoughts on my CD/Tape player combo?

    I try to put in a disc, and it sits there and makes some noise, then gives me an E20 error message and spits the disc out. The player actually works, but intermittently, (once every month or so) I've tried using laser lens cleaning CD's and had no luck. I've also tried calling a few dealerships about it... I just keep getting transfered to people who don't pick up their phones, or told that all they'll do is replace it... to the tune of 300-$500! ridiculous. There must be an easier way to fix the problem. Thanks in advance for any thoughts on this.
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    alltogetherookalltogetherook Member Posts: 8
    Just a follow-up. DH ended up driving the car (on 5 cylinders, since he ended up breaking a wire) to a shop to do the last two spark plugs. Cost him an hour labor since the boots ended up being seized/melted onto the plugs(no wonder they wouldn't pull off). We figure this happened when the accessory belt tensioner broke and the engine got a little hot? The car drives much better now and no misfiring. Got 148,000 miles on it-hoping for a couple more years. :)
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    comjetwithmecomjetwithme Member Posts: 7
    I went to the dealership to find out how much it would cost to program a keyless remote to my alarm system on my car. My old keyless remote is wore out. I bought one from the dealership $76.00. They want $95.00 to program it to my car. Unbelieaveable the cost? Is there a way that I can do it or do you have to have special equipment to do it? Appreciate all help and assistance. Have a great weekend!
    Victor
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    I think you are out of luck with this. You can get Alero rmotes on ebay for less than $20 including shipping but they all state that it is necessary to have them programmed to the car at the dealer. I believe the dealer has a special tool for this.
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    I have a small coolant leak on the passenger side of the engine (6 cyl.). The water pump, coolant tank, a number of hoses (heater and radiator), and serpentine belt are all located in the general area. The leak is very difficult to find because it is small and the serentine picks it up and flings it everywhere. I have spent a lot of time looking at the engine running from both the top and bottom and can't see where it is coming from. Anyone else have any coolant leaks in that general area? (It's not the intake manifold gasket.)
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    macboardzmacboardz Member Posts: 4
    YES! I just got a coolant leak repaired on my 99 Alero... Try looking near the thermostat... mine was busted and leaking coolant all over everything... rotted out the hoses in there (heater, etc.) and I had to get em all replaced.. it sucked.
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    Looks like the thermostat is located on the drivers side below the intake from the air filter box and above the transmission. Can anyone confirm this? If so mine is dry around there. I also don't see any heater hoses etc. to rot out in that area.
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    macboardzmacboardz Member Posts: 4
    well.. when you have a leak and you drive around with it... the air rushing past the car makes the dripping coolant get all over everything... now add time and running to the mix.. you get the idea on why things were rotted out. I had coolant all over everything
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    macboardzmacboardz Member Posts: 4
    I also had coolant on the passenger side.
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    emmanuelchokeemmanuelchoke Member Posts: 97
    Sounds like the water pump. Check the pump when the engine is cold by feeling underneath it for leaks. Not expensive or difficult to replace.
    Replacing the serpentine belt(if needed) is aggravating though. Have to take the motor mount off and raise the engine.
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    armani24armani24 Member Posts: 3
    I was able to get mine done for free. It literally takes 5 min to program the FOB. Next time you need an oil change, be polite and be very social with the service rep and ask if they can program the key while they do the oil change. The only reason why they charge you is to cover the time it takes to bring the vehicle in, setup the programmer and compelte the work...in total it takes about 20 min to 1/2 hr.

    Good luck...
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    armani24armani24 Member Posts: 3
    Anyone have a pdf of a repair manual for a 1999 Alero GLS? I would greatly appreciate if someone could email it or link to a site where I can find it.

    Thanks in advance.
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    armani24armani24 Member Posts: 3
    The OEM spark plugs for my 99 Alero GLS (V6) recommends platinum plugs at 0.06 gap. Does anyone know if I can use Iridium plugs instead? They cost only $1 more per plug...any benefits? Pros/Cons? Also, how the heck do I access the remaining two plugs...four are on top, I assume the other two are on the bottom? Are they easily accessible from under the car?

    Thanks in advance...
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    Did anyone have their hub axel bearing assemblies replaced? The symptom is a loud rumble in the front as the bearing starts to go bad. Looks like the whole assembly gets changed not just the bearing and if one side is bad the other is not far behind. After doing some research it looks like this part is common on many GMs and usually fails by 100K. I am mainly interested in what a repair shop or dealer charged for this.
    Thanks,
    Mike
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    dcnws1dcnws1 Member Posts: 14
    Don't know if this is a common problem to all GM cars, but my daughters 2001 Alero with around 30,000 miles on it had the front right hub replaced. Cost at the Pontiac dealer was around $300. I like the style and looks of the car, even after 6 years, but I will be checking out Honda before I buy again. Keep an eye on your oil and beware of the coolant mixing with it through a faulty gasket. Had that replaced already too, for around $700. Yep, Honda will get a serious look.
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    Thanks for the response. I was getting quoted about $300 per side for the hub bearing assembly replacement and just wanted to see if that was in line what others have paid. From my understanding there was a problem with the bearing assembly nut and torque spec through 2001 on Alero's, Grand Am's and Malibu's that caused the bearing failure. There is a new part # for the nut with a lower torque spec.
    I have a 2000 Alero V-6, and same as you, still like the looks of the car a lot after 7 good years. When I look at the power, style, initial cost and MPG it is hard to find a comparable replacement in the new car market.
    I already had the intake manifold gasket replaced ($1200 minus $600 GM goodwill), front rotors replaced twice, water pump (only $60 for WP but $250 for labor), ignition switch for about $400 and now I am looking at close to $700 for the hub bearing assemblies.
    I think I will be in the market for a new non-GM in the near future even though I currently have $3500 in credits on the GM card.
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    dcnws1dcnws1 Member Posts: 14
    Who did you contact to get the GM goodwill refund? $1200 sounds high for the manifold gasket, but I do a lot of business at the Pontiac dealer and they may have cut me a break. I have also replaced brake rotors at 20,000 miles, but that has been about it. I am also getting the bubbling under the door panel material. Another common problem because the glue didn't hold well.
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    You're right about $1200 being a little high. I just pulled the receipt to check and the total was $918. Labor was $710 and they charged $208 for what is called a "Intake Gasket Kit". This is a kit with the 3 gaskets required plus the seals, sealer, adhesive and coolant. If I check the individual part #s at gmpartsdirect.com, I only come up with $138. That's a lot of markup for putting it in a kit.
    This was in April 2005. I called the Oldsmobile 800 number in my owners manual and was suprised that they were actually still there and answering the phone as "Oldsmobile Customer Satisfaction". Deal was I had to pay the Pontiac dealer the $918 and send receipts to Olds and they sent me a check for half. The savings really wasn't that great because the local independent shop would have done it for $600.
    I didn't have the bubbling under the door panel material problem. I think that started in 2001.
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    gracieslocumgracieslocum Member Posts: 1
    I was having problems with my passlock system, where when I would try to start my car, it would start then stop suddenly and the security light would blink. While the light was blinking you couldn't start the engine again until the light stopped (which was about 10-15 min) then most of the time I could start it up right away. This would happen off and on, which got to be very annoying. Here are a couple of solutions for fixing and what to do until you get it fixed.

    You don't have to change out the entire ignition switch, just the passlock sensor that happens to be in the ignition. I had this done and it only costs about $300. My dealer said that they have seen this before and 9 out of 10 times it was the sensor causing the problem. I had the sensor replaced at the end of January and I haven't had any problems since then.

    Until you can get it in the shop for the repairs, an easy and temporary fix is when you get out of the car, lock your door with your key, that will reset the security. If it happens that the light still comes on, get out and use your key to lock the door again. Once the light stops you should be able to start it up again without any problems. This tip was given to me by a tow truck driver, and it worked like a charm until I got it in the shop.
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    dcnws1dcnws1 Member Posts: 14
    If you got a partial refund from GM for the manifold gasket failure, consider yourself lucky. I went through the entire process and spoke to two reps at customer service, and was told the dealer could have billed GM and not charged me the full amount. Well, I paid the full amount and have the receipt from a GM dealer, but that doesn't make any difference. So I guess they were not in a customer service mood today. It's possible I may get an inquiry in the mail from them asking how things went. If I do, I will tell them I am not happy with their decision. By the way, they asked how many cars and makes/models I owned. Four and all GM. Probably not by the end of summer though.
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    yaz22yaz22 Member Posts: 4
    It may not be worth fixing. You can buy a used radio on e-bay for under a $100. Or try junk yards in your area, they carry them as well. Just watch out for the theftlock code. Hopefully, whoever you get it from has the code for the radio or you may need to get it from GM.
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    missguineapigmissguineapig Member Posts: 4
    :sick: My 2002 Alero, which has only 29,000 miles, recently started doing this strange thing where I'll start it and nothing lights up - not the little green light for the AC, the odometer, or anything else! Sometimes it lasts a few moments but sometimes it doesn't happen at all. A few times the "service" warning has come on, but not always. If I restart my car, the light usually goes away. Other than this, my car hasn't really had any problems. What could possibly be causing this sporadic malfunction in my Alero? Has it happened to anyone else?
    Thank you for your help!!! :)
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    dcnws1dcnws1 Member Posts: 14
    If it's throwing a code, the next time you're in for an oil change, as them to scan it to see what it's setting.
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    yaz22yaz22 Member Posts: 4
    Alero owners, here is some helpful info. Junk yards have Alero's and you can get parts pretty cheap. I almost purchased an entire set of cloth seats (fronts and back) for only $200 from a wreck. I decided to keep the leather and have them upholstered. You can get window switches, motors, console pieces and most other parts at real good prices. And since these car are the same as the Malibu and Cutlas, that means more parts are available in the yards. There is also an online GM store for buying new parts. The staff are excellent and real helpful. The site is called: www.newgmparts.com
    Good luck with your Alero's.
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    gotigers66gotigers66 Member Posts: 5
    I have a 99' Alero, 3.1 and the first thing that happned was about a week ago, it wouldn't start. My wife had it at a gas station and a guy came over to help her and said to lock and unlock the car 3 or 4 times. She did so, and it worked. The next day the car was working fine. That night I went to pick her up, and I had to do the same thing with the lock unlock thing. The following morning, I went to start it and it missed the first time. Fired up on the second try. Didn't drive it all day. That night it started up fine for her, and then she turned the car off, then went to start it again and wouldn't start. We have replaced the starter, and it worked fine for 3 or 4 starts, now we are back to square 1.

    This morning it wouldn't start at all. When I turn the key it does nothing. I take the key out and all my gauges on my dash board go crazy. The needles bounce all over the place with the car turned off. I read about leaving the key on acc or on for 10-20 mins, so I tried that, nothing. But everytime I do that, my clock goes back to 1:00 the next time the battery is on. Now I am getting a click like the battery is dead.

    Please help!
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    burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Has the condition of the battery been checked? Do you know how old the battery is?
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    gotigers66gotigers66 Member Posts: 5
    That was my dad's thought, but we are getting 12.5 voltz. We tried last night unhooking the battery for a couple of hours to reset the security system. That didn't work. We were thinking about taking it out and having it tested. I get radio, lights and all that though.
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    A battery will often test godd and still cause odd problems. If you have the original battery, just change it. You are long overdue. You can get a Kirkland battery at Costco for about $50. They are made by Johnson Controls, maker of the Optima. Another option would be to swap batteries with another car in the family to see if the problem goes away.
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    jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    Having the same problem with my 03.A cady dealer looked at it and found a bulletin on it.He said to do 2 things: One try a better grade of gas.Two we gave it a valve cleaning (think thats the right term)Cost about$ 175. Since that cleaning, car has started up everytime but once and that once it started on the second try.
    Still driving around with 87 octane but will upgrade to 89 next fill up.

    Bad news is that if the above doesn't work the bulletin said to take apart the engine and try some stuff.If it gets to that pointI will trade in car first
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    gotigers66gotigers66 Member Posts: 5
    Yeah I just got this engine about a year and a half ago. The engine blew. It's only got about 40k miles.
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    johoshjohosh Member Posts: 1
    I just got my hands on an 2002 Alero, 4-cylinder 2.2, and I'm looking to start playing with some upgrades... Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get much help from people so far. Any recommendations of a good place to start with it?
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    walterquintwalterquint Member Posts: 89
    Hmmm, I've been looking for aftermarket Alero parts as well. Not much out there. I suspect Grand Am aftermarket parts will fit.
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    junemjunem Member Posts: 1
    :D l purchased a 2002 two door alero,automatic 4 cyclinder. l love driving this car. have had NO engine problems. l've had the car for 5 years now. the BRAKES on this car are HORRIBLE!!!! l've replaced front ones twice, and back ones once, and all rotors. l had small problem with my passenger seat too, but only minor adjustment. but now l'm having problems with my brake lights not always shutting off. overall, l would buy another one. l love the look and feel of this car. LOL ,my husband calls it a CHICK car.
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    msdavid1msdavid1 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2002 alero had it about 4 months it's a used car with about 115,000 miles on it my security light is on but not blinking and the car turns over but wont start what do i do?
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    mikey00mikey00 Member Posts: 462
    I can point you in the right direction. It sounds like your passlock sensor failed which is part of your ignition switch. This is common Alero problem. Dealer fix is change ignition switch for about $600. Being that you can still insert your key and turn it, a good automotive locksmith has a tool to remove the ignition switch without dash disassembly. Ignition switch replacement should be about $200. Some locksmiths can even change just the passlock sensor. Check yellow pages for automotive locksmith. Make sure it is a real locksmith and not a national broker with a local #. They charge a lot and farm the work out to a local locksmith. It's when you can't turn the key that the dash needs to be pulled apart to get the switch out and the price goes up to about $400.
    There is also a procedure to cut a yellow wire and bypass the passlock security. This will allow you to strat your car but security light will always be on. Do a search on "ignition switch" and "security" in this forum to read how others have solved this problem. Pay particular attention to meaasage #2737, 2738 and 2740. Also check message #2291 in the Grand Am forum.
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    tainted24tainted24 Member Posts: 5
    I own a Alero GL 2000 4d sedan. I've noticed water under the passenger side seat several times now after a storm.

    I have read a few comments on this topic and I was wondering, is a "auxiliary water deflector" and a
    "Moisture shield" the same or two completely different parts on the door??? :confuse:

    Where could one purchase such an Item??

    Thanks in advance.
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    14871487 Member Posts: 2,407
    I just noticed water under my passenger side mat. I am assuming this is a common issue. My car is a 2002 GLS. Does anyone know the most common cause of this problem?

    I have had many of the issues others have had with their cars. My parents have an Intrigue and had FAR fewer issues so I am disappointed in the Alero.
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    isseyvooisseyvoo Member Posts: 121
    I had an '01 Alero and was getting water under the passenger side mat too. I couldn't figure it out until I went through a high pressure car wash once and saw a couple of drops come down behind the glove box into the foot well. Turns out the seal at the bottom of the windshield was bad on that side. Extended warranty refused to cover, so I had a glass shop attend to it. They patched or caulked or did something to plug the leak. As I recall it cost around $70. After all the electrical problems I had, I gave up on the car with just 25,000 miles on the odometer and traded it in. I now drive a Mazda6 and am a much happier camper.
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