Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Oldsmobile Alero

1…5455565759

Comments

  • rdeschenerdeschene Member Posts: 331
    Re: "The second problem is that the heat doesnt work..Like it blows only on level three and four and when it blows it is only like a little heat.....IS anybody experiencing this problem?"

    It's your blower motor resistor. If you search this forum, you'll find that many people have encountered this problem (including us). My husband replaced that part himself, but it was a challenge.

    Re: "Last issue was my power steering and antifreeze keeps leaking. Im am feeling the two up once a week. I have tried every brand that says stops leaks but none seem to stop it. "

    The latter may be an intake manifold gasket problem ... again, something many other Alero owners (including ourselves) have experienced. Search the forum, and you'll find many references to it. A class action lawsuit has been filed in Canada, but I'm not sure where that's at now: CTV lifts hood on potential problem in some GM cars
  • nbeltnbelt Member Posts: 13
    could be the hazard light switch. there was a recall for that switch. try that, it'll be a free part from the dealer that might solve the problem. check www.automotive.com for more info.
    hope that helps.

    oh by the way my car still gets crap gas mileage like appx 20 mpg in the summer and appx 12 in the winter mostly light city driving. ive replaced all normal maintenence parts and no difference. if you got any info to help me with that please reply
  • rlw612rlw612 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 Alero with only 49K miles. The air condition only blows warm/hot air it doesn't get cold at all. I had a neighbor recharge the air condition with refrigerant, for a couple of days, the air got a little cooler, but still not comfortably cold and now it's back to blowing only really warm air. Any suggestions before I take it to the dealership would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • rdeschenerdeschene Member Posts: 331
    I suspect you have a leak somewhere which will need to be fixed. Recharging doesn't work if the coolant is leaking out.
  • rdeschenerdeschene Member Posts: 331
    Re: "oh by the way my car still gets crap gas mileage like appx 20 mpg in the summer and appx 12 in the winter mostly light city driving."

    Strange We're still getting around 32 or 33 mpg (highway driving) with our 2000 Alero. I know that things like winter fuel blends and snow tires (ours are on steel rims) can lower fuel efficiency, but for us it only goes down to around 29 mpg (again, highway driving; we haven't kept tabs on our in-town driving, as we do so little of that), which is well ahead of what you're getting.
  • laurievwlaurievw Member Posts: 1
    I changed out the water outlet and that stopped the leak but it still runs hot. The oil recently was changed and still looks good. I fill the resevior up will coolant/water but seems to go somewhere cos I can't see it in the resevior where does it go? I can't see if the water is circulating or not. I need help
  • hunterg10166hunterg10166 Member Posts: 5
    What type does a 2001 use R134 or R12?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    134
  • slicker24slicker24 Member Posts: 2
    Hey all I have an alero with problems...big surprise....anyhow it's a alero 2002 2.2l ecotec does anyone know how to Safely disable the speed limiter on this car? :lemon:
  • slicker24slicker24 Member Posts: 2
    hehe...I get a kick out of what's happening here because I have the problem with hubs with my 2002 alero....I have the 2.2 ecotec ver...I've given up on gm and went to a local car parts store and bought an aftermarket hub with a lifetime warranty and installed it myself...it's worth doing it yourself if you have the know how or a car friend to help you.....
  • ezzellezzell Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Olds Alero. I purchased it used from a dealer, former rental car. Bought it at 20k miles or so. It's now up to 42k. I've had the car 2 years never any real problems until now. Although I did have two flat tires very close together. One mechanic told me dry rot.

    It smelled like I ran over a plastic bag and from my pontiac I remembered this. So, I took it to my regular mechanic. Told him that I had been watching the temp gauge and it was getting hot too quickly, about halfway. I'd turn on the air and it would smell really bad. Last after idling for about a minute trying to park in my driveway, the car started smoking and most of the anti-freeze ran out. I put some back in today and it leaks at the corner near the seam of the radiator and coolant tank. I also found a bolt sitting at the bottom of the vehicle. Any ideas as to what happened? Anyone have a similar problem? I'm not driving it until I can get a mechanic to look at it. Help!
  • jaramillo1jaramillo1 Member Posts: 1
    i bought a flasher for my car signals but i don't know where it goes
  • nbeltnbelt Member Posts: 13
  • nbeltnbelt Member Posts: 13
    my 2000 "pos" alero v6 still gets crap mileage. if anyone has any suggestions that would improve my gas mileage i would love to hear them. i changed the fuel filter, plugs, wires, etc. nothing helps. i think i might blow it up if i cant figure this out :lemon:
  • donh81donh81 Member Posts: 1
    Were you ever able to find the short in the wiring? Our 99 Alero has the same problem - using either of the 2 chargers causes the fuse to blow; we've replaced it a number of times to no avail. I've looked under the hood and under the car for bad/loose wiring but haven't seen anything (not that much of the wiring is visible).
  • hindy80hindy80 Member Posts: 3
    No, we never did find the short but we really didn't spend too much time looking. I am going to take my car to a friend of my dad's who is a mechanic and see if he can find the short. I'll save your message and let you know if I find it. Have you had any problems with the heat in your car? Just replaced the resistor over the summer because nothing was blowing; now the blower works fine on all speeds, but sometimes I get hot air and sometimes I do not.
  • poodleorcinepoodleorcine Member Posts: 2
    Turn signals on my 2004 Alero may or may not work when selected. I'm reading about earlier cars having this problem and that it is tied to the hazard system. Does Gm cover this on the 2004. When they do work I can't locate where the sound of the flasher is coming from. Can anyone help. I haven't tried the hazard lites when the signals fail but will do tomorrow.
    Thanks for all the prevoius info.
  • poodleorcinepoodleorcine Member Posts: 2
    I can read all the messages but can't figure how to dial in the answers to them Please help!!
  • butchkazbutchkaz Member Posts: 3
    Steering wheel vibration on braking is usually caused by warped front brake rotors. Can also be caused by worn front end or steering component like outer tie rod ends.- Butchkaz
    ------------------------
  • kjw36kjw36 Member Posts: 2
    Folks,
    My daughters 2000 Alero is having a weird problem. When it is shut off, the oil light and park indicator light (PRNDL) stays on. In addition, there is a whine under the hood that I cannot isolate. It's somewhere near the alternator, and it VERY quiet. This kills the battery if she lets it sit for more than 2 days.

    A local mechanic thought it might be the Body Control Module, which I replaced and did absolutely no good.

    Any thoughts?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    You need a wiring diagram to see how these things are related and what switch, relay, etc controls them. It could be lots of things. You may be able to isolate it by pulling fuses to see what circuit is the culprit. Pull the fuses on at a time, and when(and if) the problem goes away, presto, you have found it.
  • missjeanmissjean Member Posts: 1
    i have a 99 alero and my fuel regulator keeps needing to be replaced.anybody know why or what i can do?
  • seerichseerich Member Posts: 1
    i have almost the exact weird humming sound coming from the alternator,i just bought the car for my fiancee a 2000 alero 2.4l motor and 5 speed manual trans.the alternator also seems to get very hot , hotter than i think it should be. it is a completely rebuilt alternator(the stator and windings were heated up and burned beyond repair) and brand new battery .have you had your problem fixed ? the #5 FUSE 40 AMP.under hood shuts off the humming and prevents the battery drain overnight. also the fuse box on the left side of dash, 10 amp fuse turns off our oil and battery dash lights that stay on when the ignition is off. i forget which # but it is for 3 - 3 lettered acronyms like bcm ,??? ,??? hope this helps a bit and let me know if you find the problem . thanks Richard
  • kjw36kjw36 Member Posts: 2
    Richard,
    BCM is Body Control Module...and no, I have not yet found it. I replaced the BCM and that did not do the trick.

    Send me your address of phone number, if you don't mind! My daughter is gone all next week and come hell of high water, I'm going to find the problem. I'd like to see what you have done, and compare to what I have done. ONE of us will find the problem, and fix both, I betcha.
    Kenny (hubbyofiflashforbeer@yahoo.com)
  • sojo25sojo25 Member Posts: 2
    hi my name is juan, i have a problem with my 2001 alero. Saturday i did a oil change on it and when i went to turn the car on it will not start, the security light was on Saturday and it wouldn't go off for nothing even leaving the ignition on the on position for 10-15 minutes.Today i went to the car to see if it wold turn over but no luck, now the security light go's off after a few seconds. I called my local GM dealer to get a new key cause i thought it was the key that was worn out and as i was explaining to the dealer over the phone they told me that it sounds like the ignition cylinder and it will cost me about 215 for a new ignition and like 50-80 dollars to program the new key to the new ignition, its a lot of money that i don't have right now.Now i can get a ignition with key for less than $50 dollars from my local junkyard but would i have to get it programed to my car? or will i be able to work right away. Some advice or help be appreciated :confuse:
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The dealer can't diagnose the problem over the phone. The key doesn't have anything to do with it. When you say it won't turn over, do you mean that when you turn the key to start the engine doesn't spin, or does it spin but won't start? Also, was the security light blinking or was it on solid the time it was on?
  • iky1121iky1121 Member Posts: 1
    When I bought my car in October of 08, it ran GREAT! I loved it! It's a 2000 GL 4cyl.
    In late November, not even having it for 2 months! It got a severe "rod knock." It sounded like someone was under the hood of my car throwing marbles at it.?. Well i was driving home and the car just died!!!! Luckly I was alreadly coming down my street so I coasted all the way to my drive way.
    Then I got a used motor put it in, and the same problem!!! This time I took it right back in, when it started making the noise! Now the motor is running great! but every now and then the Traction Light comes on, when it comes on, my car shifts gears really hard. And when I shut my car off the light turns off but going from park to drive... my car SLAMS into gear. like the whole car shakes from it. Any ideas??
  • asnow1asnow1 Member Posts: 1
    We just purchased a 2003 Alero 2.2 4 door with 75,000 KM. The car has most options like tilt wheel,cruise control.air condition,auto head lights.But not power windows
    On most vehicles I've purchased most options come in a group if you buy one option you get other ones as well. Is this common with these cars not to have power windows
  • umholtzaumholtza Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering what could be the problem, I don't know much about cars so any help would be nice. Just had the oil changed and thats when it started, the oil dip-stick is well over the full line, so I don't know if this could be what is causing it. car reaches 2500-3000 RPM when it first starts and when idling at stoplights.
  • aguila2aguila2 Member Posts: 1
    hi ,my dughters 2001 alero v6 is leaking coolant, intake manifold,replaced water pump, coolant resevoir,termosthat, now the fans do not work, is there any sensor that may control both fans or a relay?or we may need replacing both fans?the car has 140000 miles and has have more or less the same alero problems but is been a good car thanks for any info, by the way the we keep up the coolant level full
  • pkd1pkd1 Member Posts: 1
    yes this post was a big help to me so far. tomorrow I drop my car of at a Oldsmobile dealership to have the "special policy" issue fixed. I called the customer service number and kept insisting that this problem with turn signals was not a wear and tear issue but a defect in manufacturing of the vehicle . I mentioned that thee are numerous comments on the internet about this and that it is more then a occasional thing. I said there should be a recall on this and I am asking that it be fixed as a recall issue. The man was nice enough to look it up and yes my car qualifies for the "special policy." A car with less then 10 years and I believe he said 45,000 miles would qualify. So cross your fingers .LOL
  • wehkahwehkah Member Posts: 4
    So the problems started when we began to loose the lower speeds on our blower. From what we knew we needed to replace the resister to the blower motor. So at the most in oppertune time the heat went out all together on the coldest day of the year. So we had the dealership replace the resistor. Went to go pick it up the next day and the fan was making an aweful sound. You would think that the dealership would have checked the fan seeing as it's in the same place and all. Took the car back the next day and they tell me that the fan is bad and needed to be replaced. They wanted $206 for the new GM blower motor (ya not including labor just the part...). So I opted for them to go to the local parts store for another alternative. They ended up getting the cheapest fan, out of 2, to install (still charged me 50% more than had I picked it up myself). Picked up the car later that day and everything seemed to be working correctly.

    About a couple of weeks later we started smelling something hot when running on high. Few more weeks pass and we loose the high setting all together. Take it back into the dealership. They tell us that the high setting is controlled by it's own fuse and that the fuse was blown. Next they recommend that we replace the blower motor that was installed because it was overpowering the resister causing the fuse to blow. Again they recommended replacing it with the GM motor. Instead we had them swap out the one that was purchased because they thought that it might have been just a bad one. Pay for the labor, not a GM part so they still charged us labor. Picked up the car and it seemed fine.

    Now about a month and a 1/2 after that repair and I'm having the same issues again. No high, fuse blown and if I replace the fuse it smells like the car is going to start on fire. Dealership still is telling us to put the GM blower in because they feel that's the only way to solve our problem and any after market part is junk, or at least that is the vibe I'm getting. I've already put almost $600 into this repair only for them not to really fix the problem and to top it off not put my dash back together correctly. Can I really trust them with any of their advise? If I have them repair the car again to put the GM part in I'm looking at another possible $400 in repair costs.

    PLEASE someone give me your advise. I can get both a new blower motor (higher end than what's in there now) and a new resister from the local parts place all for about $100 and a few hours of my time. Should I replace both parts, one part(which one) or have the dealership do the repair?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    First off, let me correct one misunderstanding. Only the four lower positions of the fan speed have a resistive element in line with the blower. On the highest speed, the blower is connected directly to battery via a relay. There actually isn't "resistors" on the fan speed control board, but resistive stripline that has the same function as discrete resisitors. Of course, it's all fused.
    As far as the blower motor causing a burning smell on high speed because it's a cheap defective part, I can't say for sure, but there is a lot of cheap substandard parts out there from all over the world with dubious quality standards.
    If it was me, I would put an ammeter in line with the blower and see what current it draws on high when connected directly to a power source that simulates the voltage available under running conditions (around 14V) or to the wiring in the car itself. If it's pulling more current than the parts & wiring are rated for then you know where the problem lies.
  • quidditchfanquidditchfan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Alero that recently started acting up on me. For the last day or so when you remove the key from the ignition and open the driver's door the door chime goes off like the key is still in the ignition. Because the car thinks the key is still in the ignition, the power door locks do not work. Is this an ignition switch problem or something else?? I do have an after market alarm system and remote car starter in the car, but have had them in there for more than 4 years with no problems. The door locks are not connected to keyless entry and never have been. The ignition has been sticking on occasion for going on 2 years now but this is the first time that the door chime hasn't shut off. If the door is closed the chime does not sound, but I'm still afraid of the battery being drained eventually. Any ideas??
  • chastongordonchastongordon Member Posts: 2
    THIS WORKS PERFECTLY!!!!!!! I haven't had an incident in over 3 weeks now on my 2001 Alero. This is the same car that the Passlock Security System would prevent me from starting my car up to 3 times a day. The time I am saving just by not having to wait for the system to reset has been SO fantastic.

    I didn't install anything at all. This was a 10 minute fix for me, and I really don't know much about auto repair. In fact, this was the first time I have taken apart anything in a car at all. The most I have done is replacing spark plugs and changing oil.

    I got full color pictures from http://www.bulldogsecurity.com. By clicking on the "Vehicle Wiring Diagrams" link and selecting the year of my Alero in the "Oldsmobile" drop-down link list, I was able to print the pictures to ensure I was going to cut the right wire.
    ">link title

    Here are some instructions that I followed for the easy and no-cost fix:

    Pry up the plastic molding from around the Radio/HeaterAC controller and from around the Gear Shifter.

    Detach the HeaterAC module from the molding by removing the four 7-mm hex bolts from the back side. Take out the 3 7-mm hex bolts to loosen the Radio.

    Put key in ignition & turn to "On" position, apply brake, and shift into "drive" or lower gear.

    Turn HeaterAC module to the left, sideways orientation, and pull out the Radio. Disconnect main wiring harness from back center of Radio if there is not enough slack to take the Radio out past the plastic molding. Leave the antenna connected.

    Look inside and to the left at the back of the Ignition Cylinder assembly. Locate the THIN YELLOW WIRE which is bundled alongside the thin white and the thin black wire. You may have to stick you hand in and fish a bit to grab this "Thin wire Trio".

    DO NOT mess with the main rear/downward ignition wiring harnesses (1 of which contains a Thick Yellow Wire - leave it alone).



    Isolate the THIN YELLOW WIRE from the 2 others. As a precaution, RECONNECT the MAIN RADIO WIRE HARNESS, and let the Radio hang to the right side.

    Put the key in the ignition, and put the car back in PARK. START THE CAR. CUT THE THIN YELLOW WIRE with the car running. Tape both ends of the cut wire. Place black electrical tape over the "Security" light (less annoying).

    Turn off the car engine. Disconnect the Radio main wire harness to Re-Install the Radio, if necessary. You may need to crawl under the passenger-side dash to push the main wire harness back into the radio while holding the Radio from the front.

    The rest of the installation is the reverse of removal. YOUR LIFE JUST GOT A LOT BETTER if you want to keep driving this car !!
  • chastongordonchastongordon Member Posts: 2
    THIS WORKS PERFECTLY!!!!!!! I haven't had an incident in over 3 weeks now on my 2001 Alero. This is the same car that the Passlock Security System would prevent me from starting my car up to 3 times a day. The time I am saving just by not having to wait for the system to reset has been SO fantastic.

    I didn't install anything at all. This was a 10 minute fix for me, and I really don't know much about auto repair. In fact, this was the first time I have taken apart anything in a car at all. The most I have done is replacing spark plugs and changing oil.

    I got full color pictures from http://www.bulldogsecurity.com. By clicking on the "Vehicle Wiring Diagrams" link and selecting the year of my Alero in the "Oldsmobile" drop-down link list, I was able to print the pictures to ensure I was going to cut the right wire.
    ">link title

    Here are some instructions that I followed for the easy and no-cost fix:

    Pry up the plastic molding from around the Radio/HeaterAC controller and from around the Gear Shifter.

    Detach the HeaterAC module from the molding by removing the four 7-mm hex bolts from the back side. Take out the 3 7-mm hex bolts to loosen the Radio.

    Put key in ignition & turn to "On" position, apply brake, and shift into "drive" or lower gear.

    Turn HeaterAC module to the left, sideways orientation, and pull out the Radio. Disconnect main wiring harness from back center of Radio if there is not enough slack to take the Radio out past the plastic molding. Leave the antenna connected.

    Look inside and to the left at the back of the Ignition Cylinder assembly. Locate the THIN YELLOW WIRE which is bundled alongside the thin white and the thin black wire. You may have to stick you hand in and fish a bit to grab this "Thin wire Trio".

    DO NOT mess with the main rear/downward ignition wiring harnesses (1 of which contains a Thick Yellow Wire - leave it alone).



    Isolate the THIN YELLOW WIRE from the 2 others. As a precaution, RECONNECT the MAIN RADIO WIRE HARNESS, and let the Radio hang to the right side.

    Put the key in the ignition, and put the car back in PARK. START THE CAR. CUT THE THIN YELLOW WIRE with the car running. Tape both ends of the cut wire. Place black electrical tape over the "Security" light (less annoying).

    Turn off the car engine. Disconnect the Radio main wire harness to Re-Install the Radio, if necessary. You may need to crawl under the passenger-side dash to push the main wire harness back into the radio while holding the Radio from the front.

    The rest of the installation is the reverse of removal. YOUR LIFE JUST GOT A LOT BETTER if you want to keep driving this car !!
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    You can do it that way, but the problem is that if you disconnect the battery for any reason, or if goes low enough in charge, you will have to reconnect the wire to get it started again and then disconnect the wire once it's running. That's why it's recommended to install a small toggle switch somewhere and connect the ends of the cut small yellow wire to it in case this happens, so you can connect the wire back together easily if needed.
  • welder69welder69 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 oldsmobile alero with a 3.4 v6 that blew up and was curious if i could replace it with a 2000 3.4 v6 from a pontiac grand am i mean basically the same cars right?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I can't think of any reason you couldn't.............
  • ja33ja33 Member Posts: 23
    This is all well and good however let me tell you my simple solution to the passlok security starting problem

    At 36,000 miles my 2001 Olds Alero started having passlock starting problems. At first it was every other month and then after 2 years it happened with every other turn of the key. Since I am not the least bit mechanically inclined, I tried any and all procedures suggested on the internet except cutting wires, or installing a new switch. Eight months ago I decided to clean the grooves on my ignition key with a squirt of 3 in 1 oil. THE CAR STARTED RIGHT UP. I did it again for the next 3 days to gain little confidence in the procedure. THE ALERO CONTINUES TO START EVERY TIME

    Now once a month I oil the key, push it in and out of the switch slowly a couple times. When starting the car, do not jam the key in quickly and turn. Take your time. It seems to be a very sensitive switch, and needs a little TLC to prevent dirt build up. Try it. A little 3 in 1 oil squirt might save you a $500 repair bill. I told my GM dealer mechanic about this solution. He said "Yeah, it might work"

    Other Olds owners have tried this easy solution with favorable results. Try it and see if it works. I would appreciate hearing your results-good or bad. Don't use any special ignition key lubrication from an auto parts store. Just plain old 3 in one oil. Ja .
  • billyp933billyp933 Member Posts: 1
    I dropped something (dont ask how) through the small hole in the cupholder (to the le ft of the emergency brake) and need to figure out a way to take apart the center console easily without causing any damage. Any advice or diagrams?
  • wehkahwehkah Member Posts: 4
    I've got a 04 Alero and we just replaced the stock stereo in it and had to take most of the molding off around where you're looking. It was pretty easy to get it all off. For mine all the molding is just clipped in there so a little prying, for the most part, it all came off. When it came to the stereo there were some screws involved but other than that fairly easy. On the 04 you can access where you're looking 1 of two ways. 1. Take the center dash molding off, OR 2. Get behind that front dash with your feet up in the air and it's all open for the most part behind it. The second option is a bit cramped but doable and then you might not have to take appart the center dash.

    Hope this helps a little.
  • marc5150marc5150 Member Posts: 3
    My alero when braking is pulling to the left. I had new pads and rotors installed--problem still there. New calipers were installed--still pulls to the left. Front brake lines were changed because it appeared to be a restriction in one line---still pulls to left. Now Belle Tire says I should take it to the dealer and have them check the brake pressure, or something in the ABS. The steering wheel is slightly tilted to the left when driving, but the alignment is good. When I apply the brakes, the steering wheel straightens and the car pulls left. Both front wheel bearing hubs are less than 1 year old. Anyone have any thoughts????
  • rdeschenerdeschene Member Posts: 331
    We've had a problem since last summer when our "check engine emissions" light came on. My husband first tried replacing the gas cap, but that didn't fix it, so we took it to the local GM service center. They found that the vent solenoid was sticking, so they replaced it.

    Not long after that, the light came back on. This time, we took it to a local mechanic who did a scope and smoke test, but couldn't find the problem. They reset the codes, and for a while the light stayed off, but then came back on again. I took it back today to fix another problem with the blower motor resistor, and they too found that the vent valve solenoid was sticking, so they replaced it. Has anyone else had this experience and so can comment on why this keeps happening? Thanks!
  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    Recently banged up the right front side of my Alero. I need to replace the headlight assembly, bumper cover, bang out the fender and replace the plastic piece that holds the headlight (both sides) and bumper cover in place. Does anyone know the name of the plastic that holds the headlight assemblies and bumper cover in place? I would like to call some junk yards for prices but don't know what to ask for. Thanks for any help.

    Tom
  • shogrenshogren Member Posts: 15
    Recall# 76394 is a recall for an Olds Alero, exterior lighting: Hazard flashing warning lights, switch recall that affects 679, 740 cars. Anybody know If this recall has an expiration date and are repairs made at no cost? Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Craig
  • hindy80hindy80 Member Posts: 3
    I wouldn't think an expiration date applies; however keep in mind only certain VINs are included in this recall. The switch in my car failed but since my VIN wasn't included in their recall I had to pay for the switch myself (even though the failure was exactly the same as the reason for the recall!!!) Luckily my fiance is knowledgeable when it comes to car repairs and he was able to change the switch. I think the switch itself cost me less than $20......
  • shogrenshogren Member Posts: 15
    Do you know how difficult it was to change it and how much time it took. My daughter is in Boston where the labor rates are about $100 an hour. Thank You,
  • rileyozrileyoz Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2003 Alero. Horn quit working prior to Christmas '09. Replaced fuse & it worked intermitently, Dealer suggested replacing the horn(s) [there are 2 horns. Did that. 30 days later; horn(s) do not work. Was told it could be the horn relay. Should I take it back to the dealer & pay thru the nose for his ill advice?
    ....RileyOz
  • zandriazandria Member Posts: 2
    Hello...I hope someone can help b/c I am at my wits' end with this! My car stalls out when I am idling and/or making a turn..it will cut right back on but it has happened twice while I was in traffic and most frequently when I am making a turn. Work done: tune up 2 months ago, thermostat replaced 2 weeks ago; most recently replaced my fuel filter and, in the hopes that it would fix the problem, an idle air control valve. That last part improved the problem only slightly. The MAIN issue I'm having is that when the car is hooked up to a scan tool/code reader, THERE ARE NO CODES. I've had this done countless times and get the same result. I don't want to have to continue to spend money replacing parts in the process of elimination, but that is what I'm doing. I know it could be the throttle position sensor, the mass air flow sensor, or it could be the idle air control position sensor, and a couple of other things; I'm just hoping that someone can please help me figure this out! And also if you could tell me why the scan code readers are not picking up any diagnostic trouble codes? Please help! Thank you!
    :confuse:
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles