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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

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Comments

  • presario1presario1 Posts: 15
    I had a shimmy consisting of a 1/4" shake in each direction at 60+. The dealer changed the tires and rebalanced. It was intermittent during the day and most obvious in the morning. I think the shimmy is just masked a little better after two service attempts. I have the 2001 elantra gls with plain rims and wheel covers and 1,000 mi. at the recent service attempt. I may call the dealer soon, but its only been a week since getting it back. If I was a betting man, it wasn't the Michelin tires or the rims or alignment. Its probably powertrain, and something of a glitch we'll have to live with, Yea right. I started a column in maint. and repair about the shimmy, because I've notice this is common with one too many elantra's.
  • ycrtycrt Posts: 2
    I drove the Accent last night. The back seat is almost too small for my 10-year-old son. I like how it handled, though.

    Backy, where can I see the crash test results to which you referred? When I do a comparison on Edmunds' site, all it says is "Not tested".

    The salesman I rode with last night said his dealership (Buz Post in Arlington, TX) was the Hyundai sales leader in a 12-state area. Anyone know if this is true or have any experience with this dealership?

    Here are the marked prices for some base model Hyundais:

    Accent GS Base 5-speed (2 on the lot; white and gold) $9999
    Elantra GLS Base 5-speed (2 on the lot; white and silver) $11999
    Sonata (2.4L Auto) (1 on the lot; blue) $12495

    I couldn't believe the Sonata price, but the guy said that they get bigger discounts on Sonatas from Hyundai; he didn't know why. And there was another Sonata for $12995, I didn't look at it closely to see what the difference was. They don't have a large lot at Buz Post, so there weren't many Hyundai's there; the salesman said they had a storage lot at another location, so if I didn't see what I wanted here, they may have it there for the same price. I was tempted to put something down on the Sonata, just because it was such a deal!
  • browneybrowney Posts: 104
    12,500 for a Sonata AUTO!
    If I could of found one for that price I would not be driving the Elantra.
    Even Carsdirect.com gives a minimum of 14,800 for that vehicle.
    Buy the Sonata.
  • mpgmanmpgman Posts: 723
    I am thinking about buying one. What is real world mpg with the automatic and 5 speed? I rented one and got 31 on the highway and 24 in mixed driving with the automatic. Is that the best I can expect? I drive light-footed too. Also, anyone have any experience upgrading the sound system? Any problems running speaker wire? Thanks.
  • majorthomechomajorthomecho Posts: 1,331
    There does not appear to be any major crash tests done in the US where you can compare the results of the Elantra to the results of the Accent.

    The only test of the three (full front, offset front, and side impact) that you can even compare outside of class is the side impact and there have been no tests of that sort done on the Accent yet. Full frontal and offset frontal collision results can only be compared when the vehicles are in the same class.

    I will say that the Elantra does very well in the low speed (5mph) crash tests. The IIHS does four tests at this speed to see how much it costs to repair the damage. For all four tests, it cost $852 total to repair the Elantra which made the average $213. Not too bad.

    FWIW, the Sonata may be so cheap right now because the next generation Sonata will be coming out soon.
  • moredivamorediva Posts: 1
    I have been doing a lot of research and have settled on getting an elantra. I mailed a dealer and he wrote back and said that he can get me a 4 dr/5 spd Elantra with package 3 for $1200 below invoice (including the $500 rebate) or the same car with package 4 for $1500 below invoice (including rebate). My question is: is this a good price? As far as I can tell from using TMV, is that invoice with package 3 and California emissions and destination charges is $12726, so my price would be $11,526. It seems that the dealer won't be making that much $ (which means I am saving $!!!), but I wanted another opinion. Also, if you look around an arrange financing what do you take with you to the dealer? do you get a letter from the bank saying you are approved for C amount or what? Thanks in advance for your assistance. As you may have guessed, this is my first time buying a new car, and I am a little unsure.
  • browneybrowney Posts: 104
    Those prices look pretty darn good.
    You should go to E-loan.com and get a quote from them. They are usually very low. Then print it out and bring it to the dealer. They will usually do all they can to match or get close to the
    E-loan quote. I was quoted 7.25% by E-loan and got 7.39 from the dealer.
  • mpgmanmpgman Posts: 723
    What is a good price for an Elantra GLS with package 5 and automatic? Thanks.
  • jkempskiejkempskie Posts: 49
    MPGMAN- I've averaged 31-32 mpg mixed driving with my 5-speed GLS, typically reaching 350-390 miles per tank of gas. Depending on my mood I drive light-footed or not.

    MOREDIVA- I just bought my '01 Elantra this April... my first new car purchase as well. The prices you mentioned are very good... I think that at or below TMV value is a good and fair deal.

    Before you negotiate a price with the dealer, I'd suggest figuring out some numbers that include the final cost of the car (including tax, all options, rebate, etc.). When they just gave me an out-the-door number, it threw me off. Also, be sure to point out to them that you can and are willing to go to other dealers to get the deal you want. Visit carbuyingtips.com

    Regarding financing, getting online loans only works if you have good, well-established credit. Though I have good credit, I don't have a very long credit history (I just graduated from college) and I wasn't able to do anything online. Rather, I got a loan through a local credit union (good rates).

    This is similiar to how it worked for me: Come up with the price you expect to pay (or negotiate a deal). Go to whomever you want a loan from and ask for that amount of $. Get approved. Once you finalize the deal on the car, the dealership will give you the necessary paperwork which includes the VIN #, the final price, etc. You then bring this back to the loaner and they cut you a check for that amount. Bring the check to the dealership and take your car home. This, of course, excludes the necessary insurance details. All in all, it can be a pain and CAN take you several days 'til you actually get your car. On the other hand, there are people who can decide to buy a car one day, go to a dealership, drive it, neg. a price, finance it there, and drive it home that day.

    Good luck!
    JK
  • bobbibbobbib Posts: 3
    mpgman--I bought an Elantra GLS package 5 automatic a couple weeks ago and had two quotes for $12995 after rebate. I also wanted to upgrade the stereo to a CD system. Went to Best Buy and was told that, while an ordinary installation for an in-dash unit (no speakers) would cost around $50, an installation on a 2001 Elantra would be closer to $200 because of "complex wiring." So I decided to hold off on the audio upgrade for a while. As for gas mileage, I've gotten just about what they promise--mid to high 20s in the city and low 30s on the highway (even with air conditioning).
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,728
    The asking price on the base Elantra 5spd seems on the high side, especially considering their pricing on the Sonata. You should be able to get an Elantra base 5spd for closer to $11,000, given low demand (5spd, no options). I've seen these models advertised recently in the Twin Cities for as low as $10,999, and in other areas for less. Still, it's a great price for a Sonata. I've driven the Sonata and I'd prefer it for long-distance cruising, but for around town I'll take the Elantra--more peppy (than 4 cyl Sonata) and fun to drive.

    Re crash test results of Elantra vs. Accent, I was remiss in not checking for existence of results for the Accent, and also for forgetting that results are not comparable across vehicle classes. Still, the Elantra's scores are excellent and I'd have to believe it will do better than the lighter Accent.
  • mpgmanmpgman Posts: 723
    Thanks for the mpg information and the pricing. This evening, I went to my local Hyundai dealer who called and said he just got a silver Elantra GT hatch automatic with the moonroof, ABS, traction control, mats, flaps, and cargo net. Drove it and loved it. Car had 3 miles on it so he was telling the truth. Even had to go get gas. He asked what it would take to make a deal. I said out the door for $16K complete, plus tax and tags. Deal made after a minute or two. I may have left a few hundred on the table, but hey, they are scarce right now and the dealer is entitled to make something. Will let you know how it rides and performs.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    I own both a 99 Accent and 99 Elantra. We use the Elantra as our family car and the Accent as my 100 mile per day commuter car. Both have been great cars so far. Got over 52,000 miles on the Accent, very reliable so far. The Elantra has 23,000 miles and has been trouble free. We just took a trip to Key West last week with the Elantra. This is about 1,000 miles round trip from our home close to Tampa. The Elantra ran smooth as glass to 100 mph. Cruised easily with the cruise control set to 75 mph most of the way. Averaged 30 mpg with the AC on and auto trans. My Accent sedan was just too small for long trips. We are very satisfied with both cars, but if I could only afford one car I would get the Elantra, no contest.
  • cjaccettacjaccetta Posts: 236
    mpgman,

    Congratulations on your new GT. I'm sure you will love it. How do you like the silver color? Ours is silver, too and I wasn't thrilled with it at first but after a week it's really growing on me. Looks very upscale, even with the black belt trim (which I also like).

    Looking forward to reading all the posts from present and future Elantra/Elantra GT owners out there....

    Happy Motoring!
    CJA
  • mpgmanmpgman Posts: 723
    If you parallel park on a city street where people in front and in back of you park by sound, or if you park in a shopping center where people don't think before they open their doors, you will get to appreciate the black beltline molding and bumper molding that protrudes a bit from the surface of the car. Today's totally color coordinated cars look great in the showroom. Put them on the street for a while and it is a never ending quest to deal with chips and scuffs. When I saw the molding, it was icing on the cake. As to the silver color, I want the closest thing to dust. White gets dirty too fast, and the darker colors are murder if just a few drops of rain fall. Not too much of a color selection but silver with the leather color inside worked best for me. Good Luck!
  • darpin1darpin1 Posts: 49
    I had the same problem due to a change from the Khumo tires that were original equipment tires to Michelin x-one. The problem is what you call "Out of Round". No rim or tire is perfect (like an egg shape) what happens is at the factory they match (coded dots on the rim and tire) together they are the high point on the rim to the low point on the tire thereby cancelling each other out. In my case I had the tires balanced 7 times before we found out one of the rims was out of spec. You could actually see the wobble on the tire balancer. No amount of balancing would cure that. The rim was replaced and no more problem. However the tire(out of round) could be the culprit as well. Putting it on a good rim to test if it has a severe wobble.One way to test if it's the driveline engage the clutch or stick in neutral if it stills shimmies then it's tires or rim. If it stops then it could be the something in the driveline. I learned alot from this too also how alot of techs don't know what they are doing. Good luck to all!
  • majorthomechomajorthomecho Posts: 1,331
    The posts about the shimmy is one reason I like reading a lot of discussions and not just about my own car.

    If I have a problem with a shimmy when I replace my factory tires, I will know a way to test for the culprit and how to correct it.

    Thanks for the info.
  • elantra00elantra00 Posts: 225
    In addition to the molding, I park my Elantra far away. If I go to the supermarket, I park all the way at the far end in the LAST spot. One of my jobs is working at a supermarket and know what carriages can do! In addition...I dont parallel park in the street. I guess you could say Im the guy in the VW Jetta commercial dodging over the shopping cart. lol. I have the molding and although my car has not been hit yet, I will be glad its there if some moron rams my car with his door.

    But most of us get off easy. Now, I am in NYC a lot. I have never ever seen a car there without at least 10 door dings or scratches in it, bumper scrapes from people ramming into it. Both my cars have been pretty much ding free. My Jeep has 2 small ones, then again it has 110,000 miles on it. The elantra remains ding free
  • mpgmanmpgman Posts: 723
    I am in NYC a lot too. My Dodge Omni has the old style add-on upright chrome and rubber bumper guards that you could order from Stauss or other auto parts stores. Might look dorky but the chassis front and rear is like new. Today's body colored bumpers are a joke. At least put a protruding like color rubber insert band in them to protect the car. Guess the detail and scuff cleaner industry is smiling though.
  • bybonbybon Posts: 1
    2000 Elantra Wagon
    At 100 hi transmission hose burst and car would not start. My wife was in rush hour traffic in Boston paying a toll before entering Summer Tunnel.
    At 5000 miles both disk brakes had to be resurfaced.
    At 9500 hi the center console for the heating and air conditioning had to be replaced. Defective pump or vacuum?
    At 10000 hi the lower block of the engine is being replaced (basically new engine) No oil is initially being delivered to the upper parts of engine.
    Other than that the car has been very good. I am not being a wise guy in saying that. The service department has been very helpful and do care about me and the car. Pride Hyundia in Lynn, MA. All of this has not cost a penny. My other two cars are a Honda Prelude that has 180000 and runs fine and a 735i BMW that costs a fortune to maintain.
  • dirkm2dirkm2 Posts: 1
    I'm going to be in the market for a new car soon, and have spending a lot of time reading the posts on the Elantra, and other makes I'm considering. For those of you considering an Elantra, I can share my experience.

    I own a 1994 Elantra which I bought brand new. I now have almost 93,000 miles on the car. I've had the following service done on the car since I've owned it.

    Soon after I bought it it was recalled for installation of a "cold weather starting kit," whatever that is.

    At about 40,000 miles the front wheel bearings had to be replaced. That was under warranty. The ball joints were also replaced at that time, and I paid about $50 for that. The service rep said since they would have the wheels off anyway, they'd just charge me for the parts.

    At about 45,000 the catalytic converter was replaced. That was under warranty.

    I just had a worn intake manifold gasket replaced, and that cost $325.00. If I had bought the car just a few years later, that would be under warranty, too.

    I did have the timing belts replaced at 60,000. That is a maintanence item, and it has to be done. It took the shop forever to do it, and it cost $400.

    Other than that I've only had tune-ups, oil changes, and the brakes were redone at 50,000.

    I'm very happy with my Hyundai. It's been very reliable. My only complaint is that it uses a quart of oil about every 800-1,000 miles, and my mechanic says don't worry about it. I just have to remember to check it often.

    I test drove a new Elantra GT with automatic, and I hate the Hyundai automatic. My '94 has automatic. It doesn't shift smooth, it jerks, and clunks, and when I bought the car I thought it would be the first thing to break. It hasn't broken yet. I still hate it.

    My Elantra was the base sedan which isn't sold anymore. A dealer told me it had the Alpha engine, and the new ones have the Beta engine. I think he means I have a 1.8 liter motor, and the new ones have a 2.0 motor. I have noticed that the new motors are quieter than mine. My car has hard seats, and cheap upholstery, and 65 tires instead of the 60's on the new ones. It has good accelleration, and handles decently. The ride isn't as smooth as I'd like, but mine had the cheap struts, too.

    When I bought my Hyundai people shook their heads. How could I do such a thing? Now I guess the car is more legitimate.

    I'm keeping mine till it dies. Basically because it has 0 resale value. I am driving it to Florida again next week. It has been the most reliable car I've ever owned, and I've owned a lot of cars.

    I'm very attached to my Elantra. We've been through snow together, -20 degree temperatures, rain, everything. My children have grown up in its rear seats. And stained them.

    I'm test driving an Elantra GT tonight. With manual transmission.
  • sanger4sanger4 Posts: 3
    Hello,

    My wife and I are seriously considering buying a new Elantra. I've done a lot of research and have approached the purchase in a couple ways. Using the Autobytel service, we were connected with a dealership in Fairfax, VA. We told them that we wanted the 2001 Elantra with option package 4. They offered us that car, albeit with some extras. Using Edmund's pricing service, we determined that:

    MSRP should be $14,594
    Invoice should be $13,290
    TMV should be $13,532

    We also determined that there is a $500 rebate in effect. The dealership offered to sell it to us for $13,449 AFTER rebate, but BEFORE a $300 "processing charge". In turn, I offered them $13,700 BEFORE rebate, but AFTER processing fee. Now as I understand it, it's the Hyundai Corporation that pays the rebate, so I was offering to pay $13,700 for a car that the dealership paid $13,290 for. Is this correct? Is this a fair price? The dealership counter-offered with $13,533 AFTER reabte and processing fee. I refused.

    If you found that paragraph confusing, well, I found the entire procedure confusing, but that's about how it went. I guess my basic question is, how much should I REALLY expect to pay for this car (MSRP $14,594) right now, while the $500 rebate is in effect.

    Thanks for any help you can offer.

    Jason
  • dorf47dorf47 Posts: 18
    Went to E-loan for a quote, got 7.19. When I went to the dealer for my Elantra pkg5, Ocean Blue, he asked what rate I got and asked if he could try to beat it. He came back with 6.74 (which, of course I took it!) It doesn't hurt to see what the dealership can do, you don't have to take it. I've had the car for about a week, and with the break in going on I'm getting about 31-32 combined, and I'm not a great respector of speed limits. As far as swapping out the radio, check out Crutchfield.com, then go to the Huyndai site and download the service info on taking out the radio (it's basically pretty simple). Crutchfield provides everything necessary to install the new unit, and matches the units to the car it's going to be installed in. Congrats Mpgman, you're gonna love it!
  • browneybrowney Posts: 104
    Jason,
    Try www.carsdirect.com also for pricing.
    According to their site they will give you a 2001 GLS 5sp pkg 4 for $13,340 this includes the rebate and all fees except taxes tag and title.
    Also try E-loan for loan quote.

    dorf47,
    Great work on using E-loan rate as leverage to get good rate from the dealer.
  • sanger4sanger4 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice Dorf47.

    One problem is that, as residents of Maryland, apparently we cannot use an online broker to buy a car. Too bad becuase, as you say, Carsdirect offers a good price. So, I'm essentially stuck with a dealer. I keep reading messages in which people claim they've purchased their Elantra for under invoice. Is this possible!? Are we talking about the same invoice prive that Edmund's lists? I can't even get a dealer near TMV, let alone invoice. So how accurate IS TMV? Where are these dealerships that offer TMV? We found the one dealer who would give it to us at TMV, but that was only with the $500 rebate added in. This is pretty darn frustrating.
  • cyanogelcyanogel Posts: 11
    I know a friend who purchased an Elantra GLS with pkg3 for $11500 in NJ! I got an offer of $12500 for the same car through email. Both prices are lower than invoice.
  • sanger4sanger4 Posts: 3
    Well, we did it. We bought ourselves the first new car either of us has had in ten years. It was a grueling process.

    Using the Edmund's information, we'd established that the price it was supposedly going for in this area was $13,500. With the $500 rebate Hyundai is currently offering, that price should have been closer to $13,000. We were all set to buy it via an online broker, who claimed that it could be had for right around that price. It turns out, however, that Maryland has a law against brokering cars, and although we tried to manipulate it, it seemed that buying online just wasn't going to work. So we tried a telephone service that hooks us up with a dealer in the area who has the car. As a result, we got a call from a dealership in Virginia. This was supposedly supposed to be competitive pricing, but after an offer and counteroffer, the lowest I could get this guy down to was $13,533. I was getting frustrated.

    So we got back online to determine if there was some way, again, that we could broker it, perhaps using a relative's address in another state. This time it sounded like it might work out, but the details started getting a little too sticky, and I thanked them and gave up that option. So I finally just started calling dealers in the Baltimore/Annapolis area asking if they had the car and if they'd give me a quote over the phone. The car, with the options we wanted, in the colors we wanted, was sort of hard to come by, and I wasn't expecting much. One of the dealers I called quoted $13,800, and seemed to belligerently defend the price when I pointed out that I had a better offer. Another refused to talk price over the phone. Others didn't have the car, but tried to tell us that they could get it. I was starting to have a headache.

    Finally a dealer seemed willing to work with me. The salesperson got his boss on the line who asked me what I'd be willing to pay for the car. I told him that I had an offer already, and that I wanted him to tell me what he'd sell the car for, bearing in mind that I already had an offer. He asked me what the offer was, but I explained that I didn't want to provide information that he would just match. He said "Look, we sell a lot of cars. And I want to sell you a car. Tell me the offer and I promise we'll beat it by at least $200." So I took a chance and told him that I'd been offered $13,533 and (doing my math incorrectly - grin) told him that I'd buy from them for $13,233. He agreed.

    We drove to this dealer near the DC beltway and, much to my amazement, nothing at all had changed. We went through the whole thing with no hassles whatsoever. The dealer and salespeople were a delight (they even threw some pinstripes on for us while we waited), and we now have a new car. With cruise control, sunroof, remote locks, alarm, power windows, stereo w/CD and four speakers, and split rear seats, it's pretty darn loaded.

    So there ya. I didn't exactly get my car for invoice, and I didn't even get it for TMV, but after a semi-fruitless and frustrating search, I feel good about the price we DID get.

    Sanger4
  • dorf47dorf47 Posts: 18
    I've seen ads in New York City papers advertising extremely low prices, not just on Hyundai but other makes. The catch is that you must finance the car through the dealer at extremely high rates and are not permitted to put a large down payment down. I paid $14070.00 for an automatic w/pkg 5, floor mats and mudguards. This was $90.00 more than TMV. But since the Consumer Reports issue with a favorable review (one for both Elantra and Santa Fe's)and other very good reviews (including Edmunds) dealers don't seem inclined to "wheel & deal" as much as they did before. The cars are selling well, even in this unsettled economic climate.
  • cjaccettacjaccetta Posts: 236
    Good point, dorf47. I just paid about $200 over Edmunds TMV for my Elantra GT last week and I felt lucky to have gotten that price. Dealers are willing to move on the Elantra, but not as much as I previously thought. You have to do like sanger4 did and contact a lot of dealers (I called five before purchase).

    The word may finally be out about Hyundai and the Elantra in particular. I hope this doesn't become a situation of demand exceeding supply.
  • jimarthjimarth Posts: 5
    My first post... I'm frustrated with the doors. Otherwise, the car is great. This morning I even went looking at other cars, and after driving the Corolla, I was reminded that the Elantra is indeed quieter, more powerful, and more refined looking. None-the-less, there is a problem with the design, that Hyundai Motors, to be fair, should correct.

    Off subject briefly, after reading what others are paying, I got the deal of the century (details below).

    I've had my Elantra for 3 months (3500 miles) and have had it with the doors. I've read several hundred posts (scanning for similar problems) and it appears there are indeed others with the same symptoms. The common concensus seems to be the doors are hard to close because the seals are very tight (i.e., airtight cabin, etc.). I took the car in at 300 miles and was told this very reason (tight seals, etc.) as the reason for difficulty in closing the doors. I don't buy it, period. Let's not take a problem and blame it on magnificient engineering... (Imagine that! You have to slam your doors because the car is engineered so great--it's airtight! Pretty good con job, Aye?)

    I've since sat in another Elantra (new car on the lot), and while the doors do require more force to close than most other cars, it's not nearly as bad as my particular car.

    I suspect this is an engineering problem. If the latching mechanism was larger, i.e., had more "leverage" (larger actuating stroke, etc.) and perhaps a stronger spring, then, when the door engaged the latch, the latch would have the "strength" to finish the door closing process.

    In reality, the latching mechanism does not have the strength. (No leverage: this is like trying to start up an inlcine in 4th gear... no leverage i.e., like first gear, no go). Therefore, we (collectively, Elantra owners with this problem) have to roll down the windows to avoid strenuous door slamming, to overcome a weak latching mechanism. In my case, even with the windows down, it's still necessary to use substantially more force than with just about any other car.

    This fact shows a deficiency in the latch design, which is aggrivated when you're fighting air pressure (windows up) as the door closes.

    Fit and the door-closing sound seem to be perfect, so that's why I blame the latch design. I'm not holding much hope for a repair, either, for this reason (that is, the seemingly perfect fit). I looked at the latching mechanism for adjustments, and there are none.

    My other problem: Tires out-of-balance symptoms. That was the other reason the car was brought in at 300 miles. The dealership simply could not fix the vibration problem while I waited; they rebalanced the tires twice. They asked me to bring the car back and keep the keep it a day. They greatly improved the symptoms (violent vibration reduced to just noticable at freeway speeds). I'm gonna have them look at that again, as well.

    For those who are interested, my purchase details: I try only to buy cars on ad (although after this experience, I may change this habit). As such, I waited and watched until I saw the car (Elantra with automatic) advertised for $9977.00. I was at the dealership before they opened, found the car on the lot, and then aproached the sales team with ad in hand. Stuck to my guns, got a bit shafted on interest, but countered the high interest by taking only a 2 year loan. Further reduced the interest hit by paying half the loan balance 2 weeks later (simple interest loan).

    So, the ad car deals are out there, you just have to find them and be prepared for any games that follow.

    I really did not get my options and color, for the sake of saving money. I noticed the door problems immediately but assumed it would be easy to fix. So, I got a great price... or did I?
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