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Hyundai Elantra 2001-2006

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Comments

  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Actually, it seems that a software glitch may have claimed it. That's the impression I've gotten.
  • zigliflerziglifler Member Posts: 99
    i was reading it theotherday and i didn't finish the posts . i can back to finish it asnd it was gone .
  • lovinhockeymomlovinhockeymom Member Posts: 10
    I am interested in hearing from any 2001 Elantra owners who have similar mileage (65,000) and have really tested the reliability of this vehicle. My Elantra is a manual shift, and has been in and out of the shop since 18,000 miles for serious transmission, clutch, engine and electronic problems. I am an experienced driver who has not abused this car, but I would like to hear from others with similar mileage to determine if I have a lemon, or if this model car just has a lot of problems after being driven a while. Thank heavens for the Hyundai Protection Plan, although my second clutch (at 55,000) was on my dime to the tune of $1,000. I have never had a clutch wear out that quickly unless it's abused. I'm currently waiting for them to install a new engine (under warranty). Anyone else out there with similar mileage or problems?
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Sounds like you got one of the random lemon cars that every manufacturer puts out now and again. :( Good luck with it.

    And it's wayyy too late to have the classified as a lemon, if that's what you meant.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Could you describe in detail all the problems you have had? What is the clutch doing that required its replacement? Why do you need a new engine? Clutch and transmission problems are completely different, so what issue do you have with the actual transmission? You are out of luck as far as the lemon law is concerned because your car has too many miles.
  • lovinhockeymomlovinhockeymom Member Posts: 10
    The lemon law goes back to the mileage when the 1st problem was reported, and I have been working on that issue for several months. As far as problems, without going into too much detail, the inital clutch/transmission problems started when the clutch started to bind, or feel stiff when applying, and the car was difficult to put into 3rd or 4th gear. It finally became impossible to use 3rd gear. Out of that, under warranty, the transmission was replaced and the clutch and cover were replaced, because the dealership said a bad throwout bearing starting all of the problems (yet they didn't replace the bearing). Over the months I have had the throttle sensor replaced 3 times, fuel injectors once, oxygen sensor once. The check engine light came on, and ultimately, the engine needed to be rebuilt (heads were machined, twice, etc.). Started to have clutch/transmission problems again, and a different dealership said clutch was worn out. I had to pay for that replacement. I believe clutch wore out prematurely because flywheel wasn't machined and clutch bearing wasn't replaced in the warranty work at the other dealership. Even after clutch work this last time, I still had intermittent problems with hydraulic pressure in clutch, as well as difficulty downshifting into 2nd gear. The latest episode is the car started profusely, and without warning, leaking oil from underneath. Original diagnosis was a cam seal, but turned out to be a bad crank which broke the seal. They are now installing a new short block, crank, etc. under warranty, and they said my clutch/transmission problems were also due to the bad crank. There have been other, small items replaced and/or repaired, and the car has been in the shop close to 40 days over the last 18 mos. I have not driven this car hard. I've been driving cars with a clutch for 34 years, and I've had the oil changed every 3000-4000 miles. It's sad, because I love the performance and look of the car, and I do believe that I just got a true lemon. I have never had so many major things go wrong with any type of vehicle I have owned, and again, I'm just thankful that I bought the extended Hyundai Protection Plan because I don't know what I would be doing right now without it.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Good lord! I think you're right. It has to be a lemon as no one else has mentioned any problems even close to the severity of yours. I hope you do get it bought back under the lemon law if you still can. It's a tough fight, but worth it. My sister got Honda to replace her minivan without deducting for mileage.

    Here's a curiousity though: My 00 Accent also had problems with the throw-out release bearing. It made a whistling/rubbing sound whenever the clutch pedal was in the up position. They agreed it was bad and replaced it but also replaced the clutch without me complaining about it. The noise has since come back but to a lesser degree. I wonder if something else is causing the bearing to wear out too quick.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    I would be LIVID if something like this happened to my Elantra (or apoplectic). Especially after owning a 5-speed Mercury Lynx for 10 years with no clutch trouble, sold with original at 227K miles. Lovinhockeymom, my highest regards to you for your patience, but Hyundai -- or your dealer -- needs to do right by you.
  • phillyglsphillygls Member Posts: 20
    Edmunds just picked the Elantra as the Editors' Best Car under $15K. Needless to say-I agree! My Elantra has been great.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Elantra is, of course, an excellent choice for that award. Good job, Hyundai!

    Someone in the Sonata threads mentioned that Consumer Reports has given a "recommended" rating to the Sonata, indicating that quality has risen quite a bit. I haven't seen the latest issue yet, but I hope that this turns out to be true.
  • tonykrapiltonykrapil Member Posts: 211
    Maybe its not the car........ perhaps 'mr goodshaft' is the mechanic at your dealership, I dont know, but it is surely possible.

    Best of luck to you.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    My '01 GLS 5-speed turned two this week. It has racked up only 16,025 miles in mostly city driving, a lot of that stop-and-go. I've been averaging between 28-29 mpg consistently over the past year or so. It still has a hint of new-car smell. The interior is still perfect (well, the mats could use a good cleaning) and shows no signs of wear. The champagne paint is holding up well (the car is garaged at night), although there has been some body damage (hail damage, repaired via PDR; big dent in driver's side rear door by a clumsy friend, repaired; a few little nicks). The drivetrain is as smooth as when I bought it--actually smoother since the shifter loosened up after the first 1500 miles or so. I did have a squeak in the clutch pedal fixed under warranty. Other than that, the only other significant problem was the rear oxygen sensor, replaced under warranty. There is an intermittant, cold-weather squeak in the passenger-side front door that I haven't had time to take care of yet. There is also a faint cold-weather buzz in the dash or firewall area that happens in between shifts, at around 2500 RPM. The dealer reduced this noise last year but did not eliminate it; I'll give them another shot at it at the next regular servicing. Other than regular service, the car has been in the shop one day plus one hour. I'm on the "severe service" interval, so I have the oil changed about every 3750 miles, give or take a few, and tire rotations every 7500 miles. The tires still look like new. I changed the left rear tire the other day with the help of four Webelos Scouts (no problem with it, just helping them earn their "Handyman" badge) and can report the jack works fine. (Ever notice that the tools are in a thick felt bag, so they won't rattle around in the spare tire well?) The oil changes are reasonable at the dealer, about $25 including a wash, but at the 15,000 mile service I got hit up for some services that were not in the book, e.g. fuel system cleaning. I pressed the service advisor on these extras, asking three times, "Are these part of the Hyundai-recommended service schedule?", and he said they were. I didn't have time to argue that morning, but next time I'll have my warranty book in my hand. Dealer service experience has been mostly positive.

    Overall I've been very pleased with the Elantra and would buy it again if I had to do it over again. In fact, I've wondered about what small car I would buy if there were no Elantra. There aren't any others currently available that meet my needs as well as the Elantra does; a 3-Series would, but it would cost a tad more. ;-)
  • palukapaluka Member Posts: 7
    This sounds great and all being because I own a 2003 Elantra GLS but did they get a chance to drive all the 2003 models under 15k by the voting deadline?? Not sure models were all available by then but I hope so because I'd like the Elantra to legitimately beat the Civic/Corolla. Even so, it did edge out the Protoge. Great job, Hyundai!
  • lovinhockeymomlovinhockeymom Member Posts: 10
    To Tonykrapil
    Just so you know, regarding my problem Elantra, all of the work has been done at Elantra dealership shops, but I did switch to another dealership halfway through these problems. That is why I switched, hoping to make a difference. Except for the initial clutch work done at the first dealership, which I don't think was done properly, I don't think the rest of the problems are due to mechanic errors - just a lemon of a car.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    16,025 miles in 2 years??? I have 25,010 miles right now on my car, and it will be one year old on Sunday. :)
  • brentcadlebrentcadle Member Posts: 14
    ........I'm on the "severe service" interval, .....

    Just curious, why? You have only put 16,000 miles in 2 years. My 01 Elantra will be 2 on Dec 11th, I am currently at 63,000 miles and even I don't follow the severe service interval. I just wondered.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    Backy said he drives all city. Maybe because he drives short trips all the time is why he is on the severe schedule. City driving is harder on a car than highway driving is.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    I use the severe schedule only because I am used to oil changes at 3-4K miles anyway. Every 3750 makes it easy to keep up that habit on this car. I am running about 15K a year in my 5-speed.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    People change their oil alot more than they should. If you drive the car normally, then you should stick to the normal schedule. It will also save money and natural resources.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    You are correct, I use the severe service interval because of all the city driving, a lot of which is short distance and in cold (Minnesota) weather. Also, we're talking an oil change every 6 months here, 25 bucks, which is cheap insurance even if I could get by with the regular service schedule. I plan on keeping the car in the family for ten years or more, so a little extra care won't hurt.

    Paluka, the '03 Corolla came out in February, and the Civic has not changed significantly for '03, so Edmunds.com had lots of time to look at them. If anything, the Elantra suffered from timing in that the Elantra GT sedan would have qualified for the under-$15,000 category and should have received higher marks than the GLS. I am a bit surprised (and pleased) that they chose the Elantra over the Corolla. I personally think the Corolla is a notch better overall than the Elantra GLS, if you can fit in the driver's seat. I don't, so the Elantra is the better car for me. Edmunds seems to put a lot of value on value in their reviews, and the Elantra has an advantage over the Corolla there. I rank the Protege right up there with the Elantra, but it too is not the car for me because of its harsh ride.
  • intrepidspiritintrepidspirit Member Posts: 662
    I know this is a controversial subject, especially since virtually all new car manuals indicate oil changes should be done at 7,500 miles, but I have also heard that oil (other than synthetics) begins to break down after 3,000 miles of normal mixed driving. If this is true, there is engine wear between 3,000 and 7,500 miles. This is engine wear that shortens the overall life of the engine.

    Maybe the 7,500 mile oil change satisfies the warranty (up to 100,000 miles), but I like my engines to run for more than 200,000 miles...so I change at 3,000 miles). Maybe it isn't necessary, but I normally pay only $10 - $12 for an oil change and tire rotation, so it seems like cheap insurance... :)
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    I should stick to the schedule I am now using, thank you. I credit more frequent oil changes with keeping a low-tech '87 model American car running for 227,000 relatively trouble-free miles.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Consumer Reports just released an updated buyer's guide and now recommends the Sonata and Santa Fe because their predicted reliability has improved to at least Average (actually better than that). In the same mag, the Elantra's predicted reliability is up to Average also, meaning that CR would recommend it... EXCEPT for its poor showing in the IIHS offset crash test.
  • palukapaluka Member Posts: 7
    Hey, I certainly forgot that the 03 Corolla did indeed come out in Feb. Wow, now I am happy. I too test-drove the Corolla with a friend who was also in the market for a new car. I bought the Elantra and he bought the Corolla. I loved the Corolla but I too could not fit (6', 250 lbs). He is not as big plus his previous car was an 87 Corolla with 205,000 miles so he went with what he knew. To each his own. My previous car was an 94 Taurus whose tranny died at 87,000 so even making 100K with my Elantra will delight me.
  • desgdesg Member Posts: 52
    I believe the idea of mineral oil breaking down is a myth - perhaps a marketing myth ...

    What does happen though - and this applies to any oil is that they become diluted and contaminated by impurities - unburnt petrol, exhaust polutants etc etc. Also the additives that are added to the oil breaking down and lose their effectiveness over time.

    Where synthetics are of advantage are under severe conditions, whether they be weather or things like motor racing.

    My 2 cents worth.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Don't forget, the manual usually says 7500 miles OR SIX MONTHS, whichever comes first.
  • phillyglsphillygls Member Posts: 20
    Every company except BMW had lower sales compared with last year! I smell more deals around the corner.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Can someone please explain to me the rationale for recommending an oil change based on time intervals, e.g. every 7500 miles OR six months? Does the oil wear out just sitting in my garage? Say I drive my car one day per week for 50 miles, and it sits the rest of the week. Does that mean the oil is going to be so bad off after 1300 miles that it needs changing? Or is this just a way to drive more business into the service bays of my friendly neighborhood car dealer?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    The time interval is due to the condensation of water and other combustion byproducts that are sitting in the engine. The oil does have additives to combat these chemicals, but when a car is driven only short distances, or once every couple of weeks, the buildup is greater than if the car is driven regularly. This is especially true if the run times are very short. You can actually see an INCREASE on the dipstick, though small, accompanied by the smell of gasoline in the oil. Regardless, once the oil has been exposed to engine temperatures and combustion byproducts, the clock starts ticking.
  • lyndon5lyndon5 Member Posts: 20
    Whoa, your story is scaring me. Our 01 Elantra is pushing 55,000 and we also had an early clutch replacement. However, ours was for a loud squeeking noise each time the pedal was depressed or released. Fortunately, the problem hasn't resurfaced. Seems like you have a legit case for vehicle replacement. If the dealership started pointing to the crank as the source of all the clutch/tranny problems, seems like you also ought to have the $1000 for the second clutch refunded as well. Good luck.
  • dutch4505dutch4505 Member Posts: 15
    Missed out on the $1250 rebate for the 2002 Elantra GT. Any news out there about rebates for the 2003 model???
  • mat123mat123 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Hyundai Elantra with about 50K miles, 2 days ago when I started driving the "check engine" light suddenly came on and the car started noticeably vibrating, accelaration also started to be lousy. I was in New Jersey at that time I needed to drive back to PA. Anyway, when I was driving at high speed on highway the "check engine" light would be blinking, and if I stop at red light or drive slower than 30 mph the light would be solid on. Also I noticed the car starts to have less gas mileage than before. Anyone knows what might be the problem? I tired to tighten the gas tap but it won't work. Thanks in advance.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Well, I'm pretty sure it's not a loose gas cap! A loose cap doesn't affect driveability like that. One possibility is a bad oxygen sensor, probably the front one because the rear one doesn't seem to affect engine performance that noticably when it goes (mine did, and without the check engine light I never would have noticed it). Whatever it is, it's covered under warranty so it's best to have the dealer check it out.
  • lovinhockeymomlovinhockeymom Member Posts: 10
    From someone who knows firsthand, a blinking check engine light means you are to stop driving the car - it could be potentially serious. A solid light is not as serious. In order to make sure your warranty covers the problem, do your best to not drive any more than possible, and do what you have to do to keep the car under the 30mph. These symptoms happened to my '01 Elantra at about the same mileage, and it turned out the head had to be removed and machined. I agree with backy - it's definitely not just a gas cap problem - good luck.
  • windup_birdwindup_bird Member Posts: 23
    Hello. I purchased a 5-speed 2002 Elantra (Chianti Red) three weeks ago. Riight now it has 400 miles. The plate on the driver's door says that it was manufactured in May 2002, and I was wondering when to change the engine oil. The Owner's Manual says 7,500 miles or 6 months, and it's been six months since the car was manufactured. Should I change the oil now? Thanks in advance.
  • hyundaimahyundaima Member Posts: 197
    If you wan to know what it means, look it up in the owner's manual.
  • vocusvocus Member Posts: 7,777
    The blinking CEL usually means a problem with the emissions system. If the car is still under warranty, take it to the dealer and they will put it on the machine and check it. When the CEL comes on, it leaves a code behind. Have the dealer pull the code, and you will find the problem. I am going to take a stab in the dark, and say it's the oxygen sensor(s) that is/are bad.
  • hyundaimahyundaima Member Posts: 197
    This applies to all 1996+ cars.
  • windup_birdwindup_bird Member Posts: 23
    A further investigation in the glove box has revealed that my car was first inspected in Virginia on August 7. The slip says that it had six miles at that point. So I'm going to assume that early August was when the clock in the engine oil started ticking. When I got my car, it had 200 miles so I assume it was originally transferred to a dealership in NC from VA and then delivered to me in SC by a flatbed. Well, I guess I don't have to worry about changing the oil for three more months.
  • windup_birdwindup_bird Member Posts: 23
    I drove my GLT 2002 with 450 miles that I bought three weeks ago on the Interstate for the first time. I drove 270 miles a round trip almost exclusively on the Interstate at 55-65 miles per hour (I'm still in the recommended break-in period although I did compromise a bit.) I must say that it was quite scary to drive at 55 mph where the speed limit was 70! The ride was smooth and comfortable. The GLT felt as powerful as my previous car, Chevy Lumina Euro with a 3.1-litter V6. (Well, that car was very heavy.) The mpg was 35. Not bad at all. Some of the posters have mentioned that the mpg gets better as the enging gets broken in so I guess I can have high hopes.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    I think you can easily exceed that speed during breakin. Just stay off the cruise control, don't lug, vary your speed and keep things low sixties or less. At sixty that engine is turning very slowly.

    Driving 55 can be dangerous.
  • bartbikerwbartbikerw Member Posts: 36
    Hey Everyone,

    I just decided today to have my vehicle replaced under the lemon law. I really like Hyundai, and so I don't want the money back but I just had too many problems with my current car. First, I constantly have rattles in my doors, which they tried to fix once with no lock, and the second time they said they couln't here them. It is true that they where not present at that time but I don't have time to go to the dealer right after my door starts rattling. The door seal had to be glued as well and it is still sticking out a little bit. Then the main problem I started to get was a cluch noise, resistance. The first dealer tried to fix it once, which did not help, and then they tried to order and replace some switch which even I knew was not a problem that was causing the noise. They returned the car to me with the same problem like it was already fixed. I thus went to another dealer. There, they replaced the main clutch cylinder, which did not help, and finally decided to rebuilt the whole clutch assambly which fixed the problem. After 3 months of driving, I am starting to get the same problem with the clutch (rubbing noise). They tried to fix it more then 4 times and they did not fix it so I have a reason to file a claim, and I am just doing that because I don't have time to go to the dealer everymonth with a 9 mo old (now) car. Also during the summer, my instrument pannel window cracked from the heat. They replaced that, but I had to go back because a piece of plastic was sticking up from the instrument pannel which they had to adjust. Just a lot of bad service. Currently I still have steering wheel shaking while braking in high speeds, so I assume the breaks or rottors are going bad, and I won't even bug them to fix it because it is too much trouble. I also have a wistleing noise comming from the left top drive side when going above 85 miles per hours, which they can never check, and finaly my trunk starts to squeek. You can see how many problem I have and it whould not happen on a new car. The thing is, I love the car for the price. You get everything in is, plus a great ride and performance. I just don't want it to break that much. I hope they will give me a new car, and it will be more reliable.
    Just wanted to share it with all of you.
  • lovinhockeymomlovinhockeymom Member Posts: 10
    What year, make and model is your car? How many miles do you have on it? I've had many similar problems as well, as well as major engine problems, but I'm curious about your situation.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Is this something other than wind noise, which would not be a surprise at 85 mph? I've noticed a faint wind noise at the driver's A pillar even at legal highway speeds.
  • bartbikerwbartbikerw Member Posts: 36
    My car is a champaign hyundai elantra GLS, stick shift from (january 21)2002, 8500 miles car.

    As for the wind noise, I do not think it is normal at least at 85 mph. I don't know if the A-pilar is the one on the driver side in the top front left corner, but I think that is what a-pilar is and this is where I have the noise. The first time I got it was when I went about 105 but that was only for a few seconds. Now I get it 85-95 or so and then it goes away. I think this is due more to the insulation which causes the air to leak and make that noise. Hope that helps.
  • bartbikerwbartbikerw Member Posts: 36
    And by the way, I forgot to mention in my long post that I have paint problem as well. I think that the paint is just cheap and that is why it won't stand bird dropping laying on it for 1 day. I had a 92 tercel and I had bird droppings laying on it for months and there was not problem with the paint. The bird droppings is a lame excuse if you wash your car every 2 weeks or so.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    You probably don't want to mention those runs up to 105 when you are talking with the Hyundai reps about your lemon-law complaint. They might use it to imply to the judge/referee that you abused your car, hence the warranty should not apply. I might be paranoid, but I wouldn't put it past them.
  • brentcadlebrentcadle Member Posts: 14
    Considering this is a $12k to $14k car should we really expect that we can drive 85 miles per hour (15 over the max in most states) and not hear some different sounds (ie:whistling)?????
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Whistling at 105 mph is not unheard of. Your car wasn't designed to be whisper quiet at highly illegal speeds. That high speed trip may have loosened the weatherstripping just enough to make it whistle some at slower speeds (though 85-95 is not slow by any means and the dealer is not required to fix such a noise heard at illegal speeds). My 00 Accent whistled at speeds over 100 as well, but I didn't think it was a problem. As for the paint, bird droppings and love bugs will damage any paint if left on there long enough. I think Hyundai does use a cheaper paint, but that's to be expected for such an inexpensive car. You have a right to be upset over rattles and clutch problems but I think you are expecting too much out of the car for some of the other concerns.
  • bartbikerwbartbikerw Member Posts: 36
    again the noise and the paint are not my major problem. What I am returning the car for is the clutch problem which they tried to fix 4 times and also the rattles, and other problems which they fixed. I agree with you about the 105 noise. I would not mention it to the dealer to be fixed, but the pain should hold up. LIke I said, I had a tercel and I washed it every 3 months or so with bird droppings all over it, and not paint problems. Now I wash my car every 2 week, and I have paint problems. Something is different right?
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