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Yeah, voice of experience here. :sick:
Aftermarket Delco's are FAR superior to the Delco OEM batteries.
Don't let that CEL linger too long. If it's not flashing, it's not an urgent issue, but if it's related to evaporative emissions controls (i.e. fuel system vent lines), it can be tough to pinpoint so you should get it looked at quickly, in case you need to go back a few times to get it solved. (The only real problem I had with the car early on was a CEL related to evap and it took several visits over a number months before it finally got fixed for good.)
As far as service packages go, look at each package line-by-line with the dealer. For instance, my dealer had something called "emissions service" listed in their package. When I asked what that was, they couldn't come up with anything that wasn't being done as part of other services already. Fuel system maintenance/injector cleaning is not even included in the maintenance schedule I think. (In fact, the chemicals they use for that can actually HARM your sensors and may be the cause of your CEL if they've already done that!) On my 30,000 mile (50,000 km) service I ended up saving over $100 US by cutting out the services they wanted to give me that were not required by Hyundai's schedule.
I found a 2002 Elantra with 153,000 miles on it for $2750. I don't know Hyundais at all, so I'm not sure if this is a good deal or normal price for the mileage. How long do these last? Can this go another 30,000 before major investments are needed? Are they reliable?
Thank you.
Elantras are pretty reliable, but on a car with 150,000 miles, figure that anything can break or wear out at any time.
However, if the car has been well-maintained (e.g. check to see if it has all service records and had the 60k servicing done at about 120k and the 30k servicing done around 150k), there is no reason it won't go a lot more miles. But don't be surprised if some wear items need to be replaced in the next 30k miles, e.g. brakes, muffler, struts--unless they've been replaced recently.
If possible, get the car checked thoroughly by a mechanic before buying it--especially the powertrain. If they find any work is needed, you can use that to knock some off the price if you still want the car.
you just remove a plug. then refill the trans to the
proper level on the dip stick (hot) and what
is a good tans fluid that meets the sp lll hyundai
fluid.. thanks
Am trying to figure out if I should stick the dealership in the future. I put about 2500 miles on the car each month. Thoughts?
With respect to the oil filter TSB, if the wrong filter is used, it can have too high of a bypass pressure. I other words, there is a little valve in the filter that is supposed to open up and allow oil through without getting filtered at times of peak demand (hard acceleration). If it doesn't open when it's supposed to, the engine can end up with damage due to oil starvation that will be most obvious because it will start knocking. Now, *if* Pep Boys used the wrong filter, and *if* the car was damaged because of it, putting the right filter on won't fix the problem.
I think rather than the filter being the difference, perhaps Pep Boys was using a slightly higher viscosity oil than what the dealer used, so the engine might have been a little more sluggish, especially when warming up. But that's just a guess.
My local dealer has a very competitive price on oil changes ($15.95 including Hyundai filter) so I just go with them.
Dria
The job itself is quite easy, common hand tools only plus a "C" clamp to compress the piston back into the caliper. If the rotors are not warped (pulsing while braking) and assuming you are doing this before metal has hit metal, I wouldn't even bother with turning them. It is about a 20-30 minute job per side, start to finish.
Other than the vibration problem, I can't recollect any other major headache. The below lists some minor irritations.
- when the weather is cold, metallic grinding noise can be heard when accelerating under 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. Dealer never found the cause, so I live with it
- front headlight light bulbs (genuine Hyundai parts) need to be replaced every 30K. It goes off like clock work
- During summer, right after starting the motor, the car hesitates for about a second or two before moving. A short burst of revving up the engine fixes the problem.
- about once or twice a year, the car just won't start. I had it towed to a dealer once, but the car just started at the dealer's parking lot. What I do when I encounter the same problem is pump the clutch few times, and this seems to fix whatever electrical and mechanical issue that may be the cause.
- front clock no longer keeps the time. It flashes when I am driving the time gets off about 5-10 minutes every week.
- new wipers quickly lose the ability to wipe the water clean off the windshield. I end up replacing the wiper once every 6months to a year. My wife's minivan had a same set of wipers that was good for 5 to 6 years.
- I must be getting old, because I don't find the ride quality acceptable anymore. It's a bit hard without really providing a sports car like grip. But then, maybe it's too much to expect from an economy compact.
==
some maintenance work done at the dealer during past 6 years. All other maintenance work done at local garage.
replaced manual transmission fluid with genuine Hyundai parts at 60K
changed timing belt and other engine belt + auto tensioner at 90K - again genuine parts.
I was never happy with Elantra, but then I can't complain too much, since it's been pretty reliable... so far. Let's hope that it can last 50K more miles.
Thanks for reading.
Need to do some brake pad replacement.
As far as your brakes go, though, the GT has rear discs. They are pretty easy to change out, with the exception that you can't simply compress the piston with a clamp; you have to "screw it in". You can either use needle nose pliers to turn the piston with the recesses, or buy a brake tool at an autoparts store that has the two little nubs on a cube that has a socket drive.
For more details and pictures, click here
Years ago I bought a set of wooden handle screwdrivers from Harbor. Nice looking, but every durned one of them would spin the shaft in the handle at about, oh, maybe six inch lbs of torque? Ended up knocking the handles off and using them for punches. Very, very soft punches.
1. Average 32 MPG while driving 70% highway the rest around town
2. Was warned to replace timing belt at 63K. Did do.
3. Front headlamps have each been replaced 2X.
4. At 4K miles, front rotors were replaced for warping under warranty.
5. At 60K, had to replace rear brake pads.
6. At 70K had shimmy in the steering. Had to have rotors cut. No issues now. Good brake pad wear however.
7. Radio stinks. AM has too much static. This is very annoying. Hyundai claims this is acceptable. Can't listen to AM with the Cruise on.
8. 5 speed is fine. Has a tendency to jerk in the morning until warmed up.
9. Leather shift knob was replaced at 40K. All worn. Cheap leather. Warranty part.
10. Heating and A/C is great.
11. Engine is noisy. Sounds like a diesel sometimes. Runs strong, burns no oil. Always run synthetic.
11. I would buy this car again. The new model does nothing for me. Hyundai made a mistake by not giving the public another hatch in the Elantra line.
A new hatch--more like a wagon though--is coming to the U.S. early next year, the Elantra Touring. Reports indicate it will be equipped similar to the SE sedan and some special tuning, e.g. sport suspension.
With that said, this will probably be my last Hyundai product. The car has been great, but the dealer service (warranty) has been horrible. I actually used both the dealers in my area, and was extremely disappointed by both. I now have the car serviced by my Mitsubishi mechanic.
I replaced the rear brakes, and that shop said I needed new rotors, which I wonder about. Replaced the headlights once. Oil changes (blend) every 5,000 miles. Based on what my shop recommended, and CA requirements (not that I live there), I plan to get the timing belt replaced at 85,000. My next car will not have one of those, whatever I have to do.
It's still strong and quiet and I still love it.
I agree - It is just an extra maintenance expense. I also own an '06 Honda with a 2.4L and an '08 Mitsubishi with a 2.0L, and both of thise have chains.
If for some reason the adjustment has moved, there are up/down and right/left adjustments accessible through holes just above the headlight assemblies. I stress, though, that if you put the new bulbs in correctly, no adjustment should be needed.
Jim
Jim
I'm in the market for a used car and I like what I hear about this run of Elantras. I see one advertised (private party) in "good" condition for $4500 but it has 87,000 miles. The seller says its cheaper than blue book recommends, but I see it is about 500 over TMV. If anyone has some advice it'd be greatly appreciated.
The small black metal piece between the rear door window glass and the smaller window is rusted. Has anyone replaced this piece? Body shop? Dealer?
Other than these minor issues, my car has been GREAT, and it still performs as well as it did when I bought it new. I'm eyeing the new Sonata, and yet I still wish to see this car through to 200K miles, which I am confident it can do. Very highly recommended, especially for you used car bargain shoppers.
The part you mentioned started rusting on my '01 Elantra after a few years also, and it was replaced by the dealer under the b-to-b warranty, so I don't know how much it would cost.
My wife's 2002 Elantra is due a 60K mile service. I suspected the recommended Throttle Body Service at the dealership is just a way of adding to the tab. What about Fuel System Tune-ups? Another scam? I have run Sea-foam additive in fuel on occasion and the car runs fine. I was told by a former service advisor (the guy who fills in your work order when you arrive at a dealership) that he got a percentage for the extra work he could add on to the work order.