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Comments
I'll take your advice to have steering and suspension checked.
Thanks.
I am particularly interested in your comment about the Wire Harness. Can you tell me if you have any pictures of the corrosion, and or copies or the repair work? I am a 2007 owner of the Elantra and while my year was not represented in the recall, it appears that I experienced some of the same issues that the prior models experienced. I am looking to speak with any owner who had wire harness issues on the Elantra models from "01-06" Please contact me at mom2onegurl@gmail.com, if you are willing to talk to me about this.
Thanks in Advance for your time,
Chrystle
I am looking to speak to any Hyundai Elantra owners who had a "01-06" model that had to have their wire harness replaced. Please contact me at mom2onegurl@gmail.com. Thank you in advance
Chrystle
:mad: :mad: :confuse:
The next focus will be on paintless dent removal, thanks to some careless jackass neighbors who have no idea how to open their doors, or better still, to park far enough from my car to prevent these dings. This and having my wheels painted, as the black finish is faded and noticeable through the wheel cover openings. Little things, but it's really all the car needs right now. I think I may have bought the last set of beige genuine Hyundai Elantra floormats available. Hard to find.
Next milestone coming up: 97,000 miles!
I couldn't believe it. The right one had been replaced before due to an earlier accident.
Found out after the repair the Hyundai just released a recall for this in April 09. But beware, this is a very, very dangerous situation and should be checked asap, especially here in the N.E. where there is plenty of salt on the roads in the winter.
Jack
http://www.autokeyprogramming.com
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f9c9e/6#MSG6
Unfortunately, that post confirms what you already heard about the fact that only 2 remotes can be set up to work with an 2005 Elantra at one time. The way I take care of this issue in my family of 3 drivers (4 when my oldest son is home from college) is hang all the key fobs on hooks by the door leading to the garage, so there's almost always one handy when someone needs to take a particular car. It doesn't always work, as fobs end up in purses or pockets, but it helps.
than normal rpm. This produces the OBD2 code PO507 which
means "idle control system RPM higher than expected". Does
anyone know what could be causing this?
Also, has anyone noticed the speed of their wipers slowing down significantly in colder temps? I suggested it as a warranty replacement, but it isn't happening constantly so they won't cover it. Paying for it out of pocket would not be a big deal, as I put very little money into my car as it is. I might just as well replace the wiper arms at the same time, as they are starting to rust. Idea? Suggestions? Ballpark price for parts and labor?
Thanks all!
I'm inclined to nip this in the bud before winter or before the wiper motor fails altogether.
with the dual overhead cam set up
will any damage happen if a timming belt
problem (break) happens?
The Elantra, on the other hand, as an "interference" engine, so if the timing belt breaks, the pistons and valves will collide and the engine will be trashed. Don't put off a timing belt change on an Elantra.
- Check Engine Light recently came up - P0456 (EVAP Emission System - Leak Detected - Very Small Leak). Decided not to "fix" the problem at the dealer since the car runs fine and where I live (Indiana) does not require inspection. Dealer could not guarantee that after testing the EVAP system, they will find the exact root cause. They asked for 1 hour labor at least. I had the code read at AutoZone and I reset the DTC myself by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for few minutes. However, the light comes back up in few weeks later with the same DTC. Leak must be due to something other than the gas cap.
- driver side windows switch "broke". The spring that pushes up the switch somehow got loose and the switch will get set to "down" mode if I touch it forcing the window to go down automatically. It's a nuisance but I have to gently release the switch after I raise the window to prevent it from changing to "down" mode again. Decided not to replace the whole switch module at the dealer due to $$$.
- CD player no longer works. It cannot read any CD's. I cleaned out the head using aftermarket cleaner. It will read a CD for a while, but will skip like crazy. Radio at least works. If I miss the CD player, I may decide to put in a after market CD player.
- I had to replace fuel filter last week ( http://www.elantraxd.com/DIY/fuel.php ) myself because the dealer wanted to charge 1.5 hour labor + parts. I am NOT a DIY person at all (not even oil change), so this was a challenge. I had to remove the back seat and dig up the fuel pump AND disassemble the pump... I am just glad that the car started again after it was done.
- With A/C on during hot weather, sometime I hear a loud noise that sounds as if a rubber is sliding on metal. Possible belt slip some where?
- I warp the rotor during emergency stop at a highway... Car vibrates around 40 - 30 mph when I brake now... Another trip to garage is needed and few hundred dollars will be spent to either machine the rotor or replace them.
- front and rear shocks have lost some of it's capacity so that when I go over some bump at highway speed, the car sways more than it used to.
- Engine sounds a lot rougher and sometime I can hear metallic noise on cold starts these days but gets better (purrs ) when it warms up.
FYI - I read somewhere that 2001 Elantra engine was built to last 180K miles, so I guess i have about 50K more miles to go...
With my reluctance to spend extra money on minor repairs, I am being forced ( happily I think) to take on more maintenance work myself.
---
Minor workaround I use
- If the car wont' start (but crank only) on the first try, turn off the key, set it to on again and (wait till the fuel pump stops ) then start again.
- If the engine seems to sputter on the first start in the morning, give it a little gas to rev up the rpm to about 2500 to 3000 and it will clear up whatever issue it was experiencing. The same goes for the situation when the car seems to hesitate before it will accelerates.
- headlight cover is "fogged up". I found "workaround" from internet where I wet sandpapered the cover using 2000 grit sandpaper and then used regular polishing compound to make it smooth, and finally applied wax to make it almost new again.
Re: Window switch. Look for a replacement at a junk yard or online. They're relatively easy to replace (pop off door panel and it shouldn't be hard from there). Should be way easier than that fuel filter you did.
Re: CD player. Agreed. After-market units will be less expensive and have better capabilities (MP3, etc.).
Re: AC noise. Agreed; probably a belt slipping.
Re: Brake rotors. A year or two ago my wife's '01 Elantra (GLS, 71K miles) needed to have them turned. The shop with the machine was closed (Saturday afternoon) but I found out new rotors were only about $25 each v. the $12 it would cost to turn them. So she got new rotors and the good brake pads for under $90. Her brother in law did the installation (he's an ASE mechanic).
Re: Fogged headlights. I'll have to keep that in mind. Her car is showing signs of it but it isn't bad just yet.
My driver side window switch also broke...but have not had it repaired. I just pull it back up when it goes all the way down. Not worth the money to have it repaired right now.
My car used to vibrate when I braked also, but it ended up being the problem of the control arm. The control arm will rust with wear, so be sure you have that checked. There is now a recall on all 2001 control arms. Mine snapped in half after existing off a highway...very dangerous. Once the control arm was repaired, my car no longer vibrates when I brake.
My suspension is getting worse and noticeable when I go over bumps in the road. However, it doesn't seem as bad if I let the car warm up, and slow down the acceleration before I take off.
Unfortunately, the servicemen at my Hyundai Dealer are not good at all, and have found that my own garage mechanic does a better job . May people, including myself, have had to go back twice to them to get a minor job fixed, when my garage mechanic was able to repair it on the first try. I strugged with awful breaks for 2 years, because they could never fix them right, but my mechanic did.
The other issue is the return of a rub-rub-rub sound on each rotation of the front wheels, whether I am coasting or in gear. A different dealer that will NOT be getting my business anymore has supposedly replaced wheel bearings under warranty, but I am quite suspicious. My more trusted dealer will look at it and decide. I think the first dealer should get a smack-down from Hyundai if they lied about this work.
It is interesting to me how some dealers and shops talk to people or sometimes hide their non-work as if we don't know what's going on. It doesn't happen to me often, but when it does I get irritated. How could I not know what's "normal" or not on this car, the only one I drive, on which I am the one who has put 98,000 miles? Give me a break. OK, I'm through.
Mine is a 2001 GLS 5-speed. Just had her 8th birthday, and just about to roll 98K. Great little car.
Truthfully, I don't trust my hyundai service dept., and sounds like your dealer is just as bad. It sounds like the new hyundais are getting better, but that doesn't mean the dealer is any better. This is the first dealer that I've brought my car to, that the service dept has no clue on how to fix a car.
They also told me, when they inspected the control arm after it had been replaced that they thought they could hear coming from exhaust and suggested that I have a new exhause put in, because they didn't think it would pass inspection. Fortunately it did, so again, they were full of crap, and just wanted me to give them more money. I don't trust them. Actually someone should report these people.
What tells a lot about a dealer is when they come in and say something like "While we had your car on the rack the tech took a look at everything underneath. All looks good, and he says you should look at the brakes in another 10k or so."
This sort of thing happened regularly with both my cars. They even knew I did a lot of my own repair, and the shop foreman would comment that so-and-so parts were good for this or that repair, but Hyundai parts should be used for some other repair. He was very specific about brake pads. He was right, the aftermarket stuff came with good pads, the Hyundai pads came with thicker pads and all the shims and springs.
Re: the rubbing noise...if a little pressure applied on the brakes makes it go away, then you know where to look.
Good luck.
The rub-rub-rub is from warped rotors, as I should have guessed. Any time tires are rotated or brakes are inspected, mechanics seem to enjoy torquing lug nuts as tightly as they can, and many of us here know this results in warped rotors. Then again, it has been THREE years since my front brake pads and rotors were replaced, so I've done OK with the pads, and I expect someone to warp my rotors at some point; I'm rarely disappointed. :P I was surprised I had gone so long between brake jobs. On the whole, I have put relatively little money into this car in eight years, and it is still a champ.
If I walk out and push the car another inch it'll roll 98,000 miles. I'm on the cusp of losing my great warranty protection, including the bumper to bumper I extended at purchase. There is no question that I would buy another Hyundai. When I included it in my choices eight years ago, it was with a healthy dose of skepticism. This little car has far exceeded my expectations. Edmunds needs a peach Emotorcon that happy drivers like me can use.
Kevin
I have a 2001 elantra whose milage is 167,058. I keep change my oil every 3,000 miles. I started to hear a tiny sound around the engine, I normally use 10/40 Sensitive good grade oil. I was told that I should go to a thicker oil in the winter time, 10/30 or 20/ something???? Please give me some advice as to what oil should changed to if needed , otherwise the car is running good and plan on keeping it for sometime. can someone respond ASAP, I need an oil change tomorrow.
thanks Dria24