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Comments
Best Regards,
Shipo
Ed
Mark, the problem has been described before, but it's nearly impossible to search back thru old posts, so here goes:
- Not everyone will agree, but I'm convinced that the problem only exists on 2001 AWD Caravans and T&C's;
- I'm convinced it is a problem on ALL such minivans (doesn't vary by individual unit);
- It occurs at approx. 2,100 rpm and disappears above 2,300 rpm or so;
- It presents itself as a 'droning' or 'resonance' or 'vibration';
- You mainly hear it, but the driver can also feel it in the accelerator pedal;
- It only occurs when there is at least a slight load on the engine. In other words, when climbing or accelerating or at cruising speed. You won't hear it when coasting even at 2,100;
- It's worse when the outside temperature is lower.
Thus, if you are cruising on the freeway at about 68-70 mph you'll hear it, of if you are climbing a hill at constant 2,100 rpm you'll hear it. Doesn't matter what gear.
When I took the vehicle in for diagnosis and repair a year ago, the technician called the Star Center for help and was told that Chrysler Engineering was well aware of the problem, that they were working on a solution, and that pending such a solution, the dealership would not be reimbursed for any parts or labor they threw at the problem. I've been trying to get updates ever since.
I've been variously told that this was a "number one" priority and that a TSB would be issued "shortly." I'm no longer holding my breath.
I'm aware of one buy-back Chrysler did over this issue last year. Personally, I didn't prefer that option because I would prefer to have the problem fixed in my AWD than to have to trade for a FWD.
Now that the problem has been corrected in the 2002's, ...
--rolfe.
Enjoy the ride.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
The Manual stated that occasional brisk acceleration within local laws would be helpful ... but not in first gear.
If you are asking about a noise that occurs when the turn signal is NOT engaged, well, that is a different story.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The bench seat is in the middle. 7 passenger seating is an additional cost...but with 7 passenger seating, Power Door Locks, and Rear Defroster and Wiper the MSRP is $17,955. This is far less expensive than any comparably sized vehicle.
Ed
1. Is this a good price?
2. Can anyone recommend a good place to get warranty quotes?
Thanks
I am assuming the GC Sport in question has the upgraded interior, Infinity sound w/CD player, trip computer, dual zone A/C, power drivers seat, bucket seating, ect.
-Adam
Best Regards,
Shipo
1) Add an aftermarket package to the "eX".
2) Upgrade to something like the T&C LXi with the "R" package. I just configured one with the 3.8L, Touring Suspension, 16" Aluminum Wheels, Traction Control, Trailer Tow Group and AM/FM stereo Radio with Cassette/CD Player for $31,885.
There is also a similar "Stripper" Dodge ES at a similar price point. Both vehicles, as a result, do not have many of the amenities of the normal LXi/ES vehicles, however, they do have the parts that count.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Your correct, I could move up to the LXi or ES, but I don't think I should have to. I am going to question the dealer about this. I don't understand why they would show this powertrain/towing package option in the brochure if it isn't available. I also think that DC may be missing a significant niche in the market if they don't offer an all muscle few frills version for around 25K. I could get an Odyssey LX with towing package for considerably less than $32k.
There is a fair bet you can negotiate the price closer to $30,000, and that is before you apply the incentives, which by the way, are $2,500 if you buy or $2,700 if you lease. Now, that $31,885 is really more like $27,500.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I configured a GC Sport AWD with Power Drivers Seat, AM/FM Radio with Cassette and CD, Infinity Speaker System and the Trailer Tow Prep Group, which totals to $32,060. The GC Sport AWD has the same incentive package as the LXi if you buy, however, if you intend to lease, there is a $4,800 incentive, which could mean that you could get this vehicle for $25,200.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Bay Area (San Jose, and surrounding
areas)? I have a '96 Chrysler T&C with
71K miles on it, and it has sundry electrical problems
- control LEDs (a/c, rear wipers, defroster, etc.) flashing
- horn, cruise control kaput
- AIRBAG warning light on
- etc.
Thanks.
- as
The horn/cruise control/air bag light points to a clockspring assembly failure (parts=$125, labour=$100 or so). Remember, the air bag may not deploy in case of an accident, so you may want this repaired rather quickly.
On both occassions, he made the purchase experience an easy and pleasant one (which is why I went back to him!). If you are in the market for one in the bay Area, I would recommend him very highly. Todd is at (408) 842-8244 ext 26 or 800 266 2100.
The new van has a light in the center of the intermediate cabin that can be turned on independent of the other internal lights but blinds the driver via the rear view mirror. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to change this light to the aircraft type directional light or other change to resolve this ongoing battle between my kids and myself/wife (depending on whos driving).
Thanks
POSTED THAT HE IS AWARE OF ONE. I WOULD LIKE TO RESEARCH THIS MORE AS I HAVE A AWD AND THE DEALER TOLD ME LAST FEB THAT CHRYSLER WAS AWARE OF THE PROBLEM AND WOULD HAVE A FIX FOR IT IN OCT AND NOW TELLS ME IT NEEDS A REDESIGN IN THE PTU AND DUE TO THE COST INVOLVED THEY WERE NOT GOING TO FIX IT. I WOULD LIKE THEM TO TAKE IT BACK IF POSSIBLE.
http://abcnews.go.com/sections/primetime/DailyNews/primetime_chryslerseatbelts_020307.html#
I'm starting to really get upset about these things. Obviously I can't ever guarantee the safety of my children in an accident, but I have done everything I can to make them the safest possible in the child carseats, but I feel like I'm letting them down because I bought a crappy van. It would be different if Daimler,Chrysler would admit to the problems and correct them, but they aren't Somebody, please ease my fears of this van.
Is this system supposed to display the actual tire pressure in PSI, or does it just alert you if the tire pressure exceeds preset low and high limits?
I have stepped through all the menus in the overhead console, but beyond an entry that says "calibrate tire pressure sensors", I don't see any other options that pertain to the tire pressure monitoring system.
Any ideas?
Here's what (little) I understand about "buy-backs." You need to research your state's lemon law procedures (you can find them on the web). In my state, I need to verify that my type of problem is covered under the law, and that the dealer has had sufficient attempts to try to fix it. Then I need to send a letter to DC requesting that they buy the vehicle back under that statute. They have 40 days to respond. After that, I can request an arbitration hearing.
The zone rep of course knows the lemon law backwards and forwards and probably never winds up in arbitration unless he's confident of winning. In my case, I'm interested in getting a 2002 awd as a replacement, since the problem has been fixed or at least reduced to an acceptable level.
In this state, the way it works (if either the zone rep decides to settle or I win in arbitration) is that I'm "responsible" for paying a usage charge based on mileage. The formula is not favorable to the consumer unless you have neglibly low mileage (I don't). In this state, I take my mileage divided by 120,000 and multiply by my original purchase price. That's what I have to give the dealer, plus or minus any difference in the MSRP of the replacement vehicle compared to the original MSRP. DC takes care of license, sales tax and everything else. Any rebates aren't considered. I'm told that DC won't negotiate anything different from what's stipulated in the lemon law.
For example, if I have 20,000 miles on the van and paid 30K: 20/120*30 = $5,000 I'd have to pay for my usage.
My zone rep is confident that some kind of "fix" will be available by early May based on discussions he's had with those who do the testing. He believes it will involve weights on the driveshaft or the like, and that it will reduce but not eliminate the problem. (I've heard these kinds of assurances for a year, so I don't share his confidence.)
ed12 -- He also told me that the 2002's have some kind of different mountings or brackets or something such that whatever was done in the 2002's won't fit a 2001. Sorry I can't be more specific.
That's all I can offer for now.
--rolfe.
thank you
You are correct about the dealer getting a few chances to correct the problem. In my case, after the first try, the dealership was informed by the factory that Engineering was aware of and was working on the problem, and that the dealership would not be reimbursed if they threw parts or labor at it. That was over a year ago.
I completely agree that it's hard to believe that 2002 parts can't be put on a 2001. If they replaced enough stuff, they surely could do it.
I have 26,000 miles on mine, so the "offset for use" charge as it's called in our lemon law is almost $7,500. Seems expensive to me. But in your case, with only 9,000 you might want to press it before your mileage gets any higher. If I could trade my 2001 and less than $3,000 for a 2002 (with drive train warranty) I'd do it in a heartbeat.
I didn't press for a buy back in 2001 because I wanted AWD and there were no fixed 2002's back then. But that's changed now. Meanwhile, my mileage went up!
--rolfe.
Also, isn't it possible to trade your 2001 vans in for newer 2002 models which probably won't have the vibration problem?
The front buckles were fine but the back seat buckles all failed the ball test and are the gen3 buckles. I sent a message to the nhtsa and prompted them to force Chrysler to have a recall.
I think if more people contacted them it might do some good.