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Comments
They can't possibly sell it for that.
What's the deal?
ONe day I had a major problem with the car and the power steering pulley came right off the pump while my wife was out shopping.
Seeing as the car was being towed in to the dealer, I figured let em have at the brakes too while it is in there.
NOW, today, I have had it in the 3rd time. They turned the drums on the rear as they were very noisy and really pulsed bad if I used the hand brake only trying to isolate the noise and which side it was coming from.
Anyone else had their brakes worked on? I absolutely dread the dealer or anyone working on the car.... Rarely do they make things better with out screwing somnething else up.
I sure hope Mr GoodShaft dont work at the dealer I go to in Orlando.
In future posts, could you please not use all capital letters. It is more pleasing to the eyes and easier to read messages that use capitalization correctly. The last computer I used that was incapable of typing in lower case was an Apple II+ in the early 80s, and I don't think that you can use one of those to connect to the Internet (Although, I suppose that you could use a modem to dial into a unix shell account and access the Internet that way).
Tom
As for mileage, that is terrible. I have the auto and it idles at under 500 when in drive and have gotten as high as 35 on the highway with the a/c off trying to see what it could get for mileage if trying for it. Usually I get 28ish in town.
You may need to have yours checked, but that means taking it in.
Good luck to ya
Tony
with air conditioning on.. Also, I'm most times speeding 60~70mph.. One day I got curious about my car's actual gas mileage so I did little test.
I drove at 45mph with cruze control on until almost of gas is gone.. It was about 310 miles/14.5 gal.
I owned 2000 Elantra, too. However, it's gas mileage was less then 2001.
And the Break problem.. I don't know.. My 2000 Elantra made that werid noise from rear.. And I told that problem to Dealer and they said its natural.. However, 2001 Elantra was not make that noise, until last week. Last week, I heard something blowing up from my rear side of car during the drive. I thought my tire was blowed up, but it was not, the tires were ok.. I didn't know what was wrong, until I pressed break. The rear break started to make some werid noise.. However, the breaking was ok.. and still good..
It was my right rear and it would not simply pulsate like a drum or rotor out of round, it would actually click load per revolution of the wheel.
Something tells me it is not over yet.
Good luck with yours.
About the idle. Mine is a 5spd and it idles around 800 rpms. However, when it started to get cold out, the car wasn't use to it and started idling lower, like around 700rpms. made it vibrate more too. However, i was told it was just the computer trying to adjust itself for the cold weather cause the idle would "bounce" every now and then between 700 and 800 rpms. The mechanic told me it was just adjusting. Now its fine. Other then that, 12,000 miles and no engine problems.
I applied on line through eloan.com and they approved us (at a high rate) but then they say they don't do Hyundai! I wish they had said that on their website before I applied!
And I was treated nicely at Frank Hyundai. I hope we can get the car!
See what you can get the car for from an on-line site like CarsDirect.com or similar and ask them to match it. If they can't try going elsewhere.
With 3 dealers here in the Orlando area (about 10 miles max from me) I bought my Sonata in Melbourne which is about 80 miles from here, but it was worth it. When I bought my 01 Elantra, all I had to do was mention going elsewhere and the numbers popped into reality.
Good luck.
Some people choose a manual tranny over an auto simply because they prefer it. I always did but my friends talked me into an Elantra with auto. Surprise: virtually everything on the auto is covered under warranty. With the manual, of course, the clutch AND some "related" components are NOT! On any car warranty, isn't it always those "related components" that cause the most problems and expense? Something to consider!
Regarding noise(s) from the underside: as the car goes through its daily bumps and grinds some things may need re-tightening or adjusting. I noticed a noise when the car was cold-it was the heat shield on the converter-tightened, adjusted, no more noise.
BTW, a friend recently purchased a Chrysler LHS (BIG, BEAUTIFUL, $26,000 [?]. The other day, the big, beautiful Chrysler emblem on the trunk-FELL OFF! There you go!
Yeah, fine print on warranties can be a bit of a bummer. Especially since scant few of us comb through the warranty text beforehand and many of the relatively "high failure" components are not covered. The big stuff is taken care of but that stuff normally lasts longer than the car itself. Still, its pretty much the same for all car companies.
It is disconcerting that ebekins loan was kicked back because he was looking at a Hyundai.
Geuss we'll have to wait a while until the Elantra reputation gets out and its trade in value tightens up. Can't think of any other reason why they wouldn't risk the Hyundai.
Take care
In the end we chose the Elantra because you really do get a lot for your money. My wife was putting about $60.00 a week in our Expedition and with gas going up we needed a good mileage car. We got 0.9% on the Ford 5 months ago. Too bad Hyundai doesnt offer that rate.
I would go with a package 3 for the CD, but $350 seems high when I could get something at Best Buy or whereever for quite a bit less.
Comments? Will I regret it?
Thanks!
If I tap the accellerator and gently rev the engine the rpm then drops back to normal.
Please let me know how your story ends.
Thats great mileage, I have got a max of 36 with an auto trans.
Good luck find the problem
ste123....Chrome rims?! That sounds nice. I dont they even make rims for the 2001 Elantra....just wheel covers. Well, at least i havent seen them. What kind are they or if you got a picture, I d like to see them
rcanton...I got my elantra for $10,900 back in April of 2000. However, i have rims, cruise control and CD player. So figure youd be paying the same with a base model cause they jacked the price up from 11,799 to 12,899 here in New Jersey...(I dont know where you are, so the prices do vary) Haggle with the salesman. Thats how i got mine so cheap.
I've shopped around other Hyundai dealers, and no one comes near this price ($10,800 base). In fact, the others have that little extra "dealer add-on" sticker for paint sealant, pinstriping and undercoating, adding as much as $1821 to the sticker. One even told me that that's non-negotiable. Yeah, right!
One of these dealers claim they'll beat anyone else's price or give you $1000. I may run in there with my quote in writing and see what they do. Could be $1000 richer!
So, to those who know, what parts aren't covered by the warranty on the Elantras with a manual transmission? I figure the clutch is a given, unless it's a manufacturer defect, but what else? What's the life expectancy for a clutch for the average driver, and what are clutch replacements costing these days? Been driving automatics for several years now, so I haven't been keeping up with repair prices. If I go auto, it'll add around $1000 to the price.
And one more thing - would swapping out the factory stereo for an aftermarket have any effect on the warranty?
Already got my financing lined up with my credit union, so it's only a matter of finding the one I want. Cranberry is looking pretty nice right now - people up the street already got black, so I can't be a copycat...8-)
I am interested in buying a 01 Elantra auto, with package #4. Does anyone know of a reputable dealer in the Bklyn-Bay Ridge area... ok any area near NY. One of the earlier postings discredited the one in my area and I haven't gotten the right feel from the other dealer I visited. Also, if anyone has purchased this type of vehicle and wouldn't mind posting the price and place it will be greatly appreciated. Thank you everyone for helping me decide on an elantra in the first place
rcaton, if you've been driving an automatic for several years, why would you want to switch to a 5-speed now? Either you prefer a stick or you don't. If I were you, I wouldn't let the $700-800 (not $1000) that an auto will cost you sway your decision--if you prefer an auto, get it, and you'll be much happier. And you won't need to worry about how long the clutch will last. It's impossible to say how long a clutch will last in general. On my cars, the clutch plates have lasted from 40,000 to 80,000 miles, and cost around $400 to replace at the dealer (not on Hyundais, but Nissans and Hondas). It's not a big deal for me because I prefer a 5-speed and only put 6000 miles a year on a car, so my clutch plate should last at least 5 years on the Elantra.
We've got an auto 01 Elantra and are not too happy with the mpg either. With combo city/highway driving, all with gentle accelerations and nothing over 65, I managed a mediocre 27 mpg.
Can't imagine tweaking it up to 36mpg, let alone 42. If those numbers are true, then it seems there's some quirky mileage inequities between individual cars. But that does not make any scientific sense if all cars are built to same standard.
I can't imagine an air filter making that much of a difference but will try it anyway.
Any more thoughts from the assembled wisdom?
Take care,
Mark
Hope this helps.
Pat
Host
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If the mpg is indeed so variable between identical vehicles as to make us scratch our heads, then we may have to concede that our Elantra are rearing their ugly heads of unrefinement.
I do like my Elantra but these inconsistantcies(erratic mpg, misalignments, reluctant fuel doors, loose screw covers, idle idiosyncrasies) make it hard to conclude that the car is as refined, say as my 1996 Civic hatchback. In 50k miles, the only thing that has deviated from the center of excellence was a faulty speedo cable that was replaced under warranty.
Although I spent my hard earned money on our Elantra--and it was a leap of faith-- I would suggest to others NOT to make a similar leap and to wait a year and see how else this car behaves after we get some significant miles on them.
If you must buy a car, then I suggest buying another make of car, despite a higher price, until these Elantra are proven all-around worthy.
You can always trade in another make for a higher resale in a few years and recoup it on a new lower priced Elantra if they do, indeed, prove worthy of your cash.
Knowing what I now know, would I have spent an extra $3k on a Civic... just don't know. What I do know is that I am not NEARLY as certain as I originally was about Hyundai and realize I may have to eat crow some time down the road. Of course, I HOPE I was right all along.
Mark
Besides, most of my driving is highway driving and not city, so the manual seems to make more sense. Plus I'm getting what I perceive as a great price. 8-)
Planning to get the ball rolling and/or pick mine up tomorrow....
Re mpg variations: is this a sign of poor build quality, or is it a normal variation based on different climates, driving habits and patterns, and age of the cars? I think the latter. I know that I get way better mileage in the summer in Minnesota than in the winter, especially a cold winter like this one. It's not just the temperature, but more idling (warm ups), and I think in some areas the gas is reformulated with more ethanol in the winter (here it's like that year-round now), which reduces mpg. You also have drivers with low miles (like me, up to 2300 now) comparing mpg with drivers with tens of thousands of miles. And you have drivers who put the "pedal to the metal" all the time (like the poster from San Francisco who thought speed limits were a merely a suggestion) vs. drivers who drive with a light foot and strive for best fuel economy. I haven't tried this yet with my Elantra, but I know from experience with other small cars that I can take a car on a long trip at 55 mph (remember when that used to be the interstate speed limit?) and get over 40 mpg, and take the same car on stop-and-go traffic in the city and get 25 mpg or less. That was my exact experience with a '95 Mystique I owned. That Mystique also spent a large part of its first six months of life in the shop for a slew of recalls and other problems. My '01 Elantra, on the other hand, one of the first units rolling out of the factory (9/00 build) has had one recall (on side air bags, fixed before delivery) and a couple of screw plugs falling off. I don't count the sticky fuel door as a problem because other cars I've owned have done the same thing in below-zero weather. Sure, I could have bought a Corolla, or Civic, or Sentra, or Protege, and had a lower risk of problems. But I would have had a car that I would not have liked as much as the Elantra, and paid thousands more besides. It's not for everyone--if you're going to lay awake at night worrying about screw plugs falling off the doors, or worse, go see your friendly neighborhood Toyota or Honda dealer, plunk down your money, and drive off with a smile on your face. As for me, I smile now when I come to a stop light because I know I get to take her through the gears when the light changes.
Sticky fuel door? Had the same problem on my Escort in the winter when it would freeze up.
Anything else?
Thanks!
Final prep is being done as we speak, and I pick it up tomorrow. This is my first *real* new car (always bought used before), so I'm excited!
FWIW, the dealer is St. Charles Automotive in St. Peters, MO (just west of the St. Louis area).