Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Older Honda Accords

1524525527529530647

Comments

  • bobstbobst Posts: 1,783
    After we got the kids through college, we bought an Acura RSX. I absolutely, positively love it. It reminds me of the feeling I got when I bought a used TR250 in 1969.
  • rcc8179rcc8179 Posts: 131
    This filter is located behind the glove box and is pretty easy to replace.

    (1) Open the glove box and empty the contents.

    (2) Unhook the damper on the right side of the glove box.

    (3) Squeeze together the 2 sides of the glove box at the back and pull forward. The glove box will now be held only at the 2 bottom hinges.

    (4) Remove the filter holder/assembly and replace the filter.

    Total estimated time: 5-10 minutes
  • After reading my owners manual about recommended oil changes, I noticed Honda states to replace the oil filter every-other oil change. That means replacing the oil filter every 15K miles. This does not seem smart to replace the engine oil with freash oil and leave in a used oil filter. Can someone explain?
  • Yes. Don't be a cheapskate. Buy a filter every time you change the oil. Cheap insurance.
  • Thanks rcc8179!
  • ktnrktnr Posts: 255
    Worried about your oil filter clogging? Cut your used one open and look through the filter material to see what's been trapped.

     

    Unless you've just blown your engine, I guaranty that you'll find almost zero foreign material inside the filter - certainly not enough to clog it. See for yourself. Any decent oil filter should be able to withstand 15,000 miles of wear and tear without failing in some way.

     

    If you're concerned about leaving a half-quart of dirty oil in your engine during oil changes, you could always dump out the filter and put it back on. Personally, I'm always worried about dry-starting my engine with a new oil filter that has to fill up before the engine gets oil pressure. Thus, when I change an oil filter, I fill the new filter with fresh oil before installing it (obviously not an option if your filter is horizontal).

     

    You think Jiffy-Lube does this? Not. Which is worse - not replacing a still clean oil filter at every oil change -OR- running your engine without any oil pressure for a few seconds twice as often?
  • venus537venus537 Posts: 1,443
    great post on how useful the navi can be. most people don't understand ALL of the capabilities of a good navi system.

     

    i suspect there's an awful lot of people like you who would never get a vehicle without one again.
  • ktnrktnr Posts: 255
    I've seen several different Navigation systems and like Honda/Acura's the best. However, besides purchase cost (and repair cost), I've got one major reservation about integrated navigation systems - upgradability.

     

    I bought a PC knowing that I could easily upgrade the operating system after a few years and I've done that twice now. I've upgraded the O/S of my Palm-based PDA and upgraded the firmware of my digital camera. I've upgraded the O/S of my Blackberry wireless E-mail device. My $300 television I'll upgrade to HDTV by just replacing it.

     

    But in ten years from now, Lord willing and I'm still driving the same nice car, I won't have upgraded the O/S, features or functionality of my Navi system?

     

    For now, portable, non-integrated navigation systems seem the most attractive to me personally. I can upgrade them, move them from one car to another, and when I fly to a different city and rent a car, I can have one with me. Definitely not as cool as asking your car for the time of day or telling it to play a CD instead of the radio though.
  • Your argument seems to make sense, however, I have been doing it the old-fashion way (3,000 mi w/ new dry filter) for over 30 years on a wide variety of two and four wheeled entertainment devices and have never had an oil related engine problem. I am confident my experience is not unusual. One's attitude towards maintenance depends upon your intentions regarding length of ownership. I'm of the age where after about 100,000 miles of service (4-5 years), I hand 'em down to my kids. So, I buy cars with the intention of someone in my family driving them until they're worthless. Obviously, I want them to stay mechanically sound and be safe.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,371
    "dump out the filter and put it back on."

     

    For the couple of dollars filters cost, I'll just put on the new one instead of messing with dumping oil out of a used one.

     

    As for starting engines without pressure... the oil present on bearings and walls will handle the 3 seconds until pressure builds in the empty tubes to the filter and the filter, just the same as it does every time you start the car. I certainly don't rev the engine when it starts, I just let it idle. I too fill the filter with oil--just to be safer, but I don't feel it makes a measurable difference in engine life.

     

    I never cut open a filter, but I suspect a lot of the particulates trapped are not visible to the naked eye. Does anyone have a link on the web about the amount of trapped matter, and perhaps about the visual appearance of used filter media?
  • ktnrktnr Posts: 255
    Honestly, I suspect that my concerns are unfounded regarding running engines without oil pressure for the few seconds it takes for a new oil filter to fill. If it were a real problem, somebody would have mentioned it before now I suppose. Likewise, my guess is that replacing the filter at every oil change is similarly unnecessary.

     

    It's funny all the different things we do to make ourselves feel better about our cars.
  • ktnrktnr Posts: 255
    Try bobistheoilguy.com

     

    That site could keep anyone busy reading for the better part of day. I believe there are some posts there from people who have dissected used oil filters.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,371
    Where the recommended oil change is 7500 miles for mixed city driving, I would change oil at about 4000. When the oil begins to look bad because it's carrying a lot of particulate matter, I am ready to over spend on the oil AND on a new filter. (I do changes myself.)

     

    I put the hot oil off the dipstick on a piece of paper towel from the kitchen and when the darker spot is about the size of a dime, I get ready to change the oil. Try this with your oil every couple of weeks and you'll see the particulate load increase in the oil. I use two drops. I also rub the oil between my fingers to feel the oil.

     

    I admit I have used a filter two changes--in cold winter and with mostly short 1- 5 mile drives on my wife's car, the oil has gotten dark and I've changed it early. The filter probably went 5500 to 6000 miles for both changes. Otherwise, new filter. Fram's always had been cheap and I bought on sale at $2 each.

     

    The cost of the new filter is security that the engine will be better when my wife makes me trade the car at 150 or 200K miles.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,371
    Another opinion of mine is that it probably is much more important to have the engine oil changed right after a long higher speed drive to have as much goop suspended to drain out as possible.

     

    If anyone can find good data from bobistheoilguy's site, please comment here. I got lost in that site trying to find what I was looking for long ago. Get a fresh cup of coffee before you start that site.
  • fgf001fgf001 Posts: 98
    I agree with another poster that suggested an upholstery shop to modify the seats to your liking. Another way, although more expensive, is to buy aftermarket seats and have them retrofitted. Either solution is certainly more sensible than not driving your new car that you just bought because you are miserable.
  • fgf001fgf001 Posts: 98
    What specific information are you seeking?
  • bobstbobst Posts: 1,783
    When is the last time you had a car problem that might have been avoided by changing your oil more often?

     

    I think of the many problems I have had over the years - power steering failure, radiator leaks, alternators, distributors, starters, other electrics - none have been oil related. I ain't burned out a main bearing or thrown a rod in a long time.

     

    Still we get the oil changed every 4K miles. Old habits die hard.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,371
    Seeking info about how much is being trapped by filters and how rapidly that occurs. Is it visible like lint on a home furnace air filter or is it invisible?
  • We in fact cut up and examined used oil filters at Exxon where I worked for some time. Filters are a snapshot of a motor's condition, and the presence or absence of particulates - while it indicates the filter's effectiveness - points more importantly to why and how particulates got there in the first place.

     

    The bottom line is that unlike transmission fluid which isn't exposed to products of combustion (and thus can take much longer drain intervals), engine oil is.

     

    Burned or unburned fuel, when it joins lubricant, thins out and otherwise degrades that lubricant so as to promote the dreaded metal-to-metal contact.

     

    Said metal-to-metal contact then produces particulates, which just plain wear out an engine given enough time.

     

    All to say, if one looks back at the root cause of engine wear which - per this hypothesis - is fuel dilution, we come to this conclusion:

     

    To nip (minimize, more accurately) engine wear in the bud, we need to adopt maintenance practices that go further upstream of frequent oil changes.

     

    These would include changing at earlier or recommended intervals the engine air filter and spark plugs & wires, engine components that impact combustion attainment (guess why a car will finally pass emissions after simply changing these). Corollarily, engine cooling affects oil longevity, indicating that coolant change and system cleaning are in the maintenance cards as well.

     

    That the Accord has either a ULEV or LEV engine gives us consumers more maintenance wiggle room; to the maintenance-intense among us, I would recommend including the aforementioned ignition and cooling items for a total approach.

     

    BTW, let me take this opportunity to wish you forum folks a happy, peaceful 2005 !
  • I owned a 90 Accord LX 5-speed coupe from 99-01. I bought it used from a friend with 145K miles for $2600 and sold it with 202K miles for $1500. It was a great car and required nothing more than the maintenance items.

     

    Since then, Ive been thru a 2000 Prelude, a 2000 Accord EXL, a 1986 Prelude Si, and a 2003 Civic EX. I recently came across a 90 Accord EX 4dr auto with 130K miles, in amazing, 1-owner, condition, and bought it for $2500 as a third vehicle.

     

    Im wondering what the differences between the LX and EX were in 1990. And what common problems were for this generation.

     

    There was a seatbelt buckle recall, and I know the power antennas always are messed up.

     

    The EX had a power sunroof, body color exterior trim versus black, 15" alloy wheels versus 14" wheel covers, and dual exhaust with 5 more hp and tq. Im sure there were more features on the EX that the LX lacked, but I cant seem to think of anymore.
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    No more oil change discussions! It's been discussed to death here and on every other forum. If you prefer a 3000 mile interval over the manufacturer's recommendation, by all means, do it. You won't miss the extra $400 it will cost over the next 100,000 miles, you won't extend your engine life, and you won't materially affect world oil reserves. Don't worry, be happy.
  • QUESTION: ---- Why does this topic annoy so many people? --- If we follow your advice, we will not have anything to discuss! You see, you were 90% correct in your posting until you stated that: ----"you won't extend your engine life"! -----But, have a "GREAT NEW YEAR". We will pick up this heated discussion in 2005. Remember, the same engineers that advocate "extended oil and filter change intervals for Honda vehicles", designed the V6 automatic transmission that everyone is talking about on these boards. How can they be "so right" on one issue, and "so wrong" on another issue?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,371
    Why waste bandwidth telling others what they shouldn't discuss?

     

    It's all very relevant to extending engine life. Many change at 10K whether it needs it or not and then trade the car at 80K. They've saved money but the next owner somewhere down the road gets a car with excess wear. I personally keep cars long enough that it matters. I've never had an oil burner because I keep my cars well maintained, as do some others on this board.

     

    Happy New Year, to _everyone_ on the board.
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,756
    "If we follow your advice, we will not have anything to discuss!"

     

    You may be right. I guess there aren't enough topics to support new areas for discussion on any given vehicle. That's why the same info keeps coming up.

     

    Regarding engine life, can you produce any objective (i.e., not anecdotal) data that indicates more frequent (than the mfr's recommendation) oil changes extend engine life?

     

    I'm going to unsubscribe. I don't want to annoy anyone else with my posts. See ya!
  • inkieinkie Posts: 281
    Greg,

         Very seldom are we in agreement, these forums should be open for any discussion and shorter oil & filter changes will extend engine life. I am presently changing at 5k or 4mos whichever comes first. Still, no additions of Marvel Mystery Oil.LOL.

     

        Imadizol, as the one poster said, go to bobistheoilguy.com you will get all the info you need on what tests have bee performed on oil and oil filters.

     

        "Happy New Year to all"
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,371
    bobistheoilguy.com you will get all the info you need

     

    I don't find any where that they dissected oil filters to see how much is actually trapped...

    Can you provide a link?

     

    I did get lost again reading interesting and sometimes nonscientific 'testing' of parts.
  • ktnrktnr Posts: 255
    Increasingly discontent with the 4-cylinder engine in my ’05 Accord LX sedan, I traded it in with just 1,754 miles on the clock. What I bought instead is the car I should have bought five weeks ago, an LX-V6.

     

    It was a tough decision – the LX 4-cylinder was a very good car. The power was adequate – enough to make the car feel fairly fast. On the highway at 70mph (2,200rpm), I couldn’t have asked for a smoother or quieter engine. Even with drums in the rear, the brakes were excellent. With a manual transmission, this car could be a fun, almost sporty sedan. Unfortunately, the smooth but early-shifting automatic often left the engine in a rough band between idle and 2,000rpm. Keeping the revs above the roughness required using lots of throttle. Then too, engine noise was more pronounced than I would have liked and as a package my LX felt somewhat light and insubstantial (coming from a ’97 Mitsubishi Diamante with 3.5L V6 automatic). Too much “economy feel” for my tastes and not enough “luxury feel”.

     

    In contrast, the V6 is dead smooth at idle and at every rpm. I’m surprised at how much heavier the steering feels but with the bigger engine, the overall effect is to make the car feel larger, more substantial and more refined. Power at all rpms is WAY more than I’d ever need and it’s smoothness is a speeding ticket waiting to happen. With the V6 underfoot, my sense is of driving a powerful and expensive car.

     

    I’m 6’1” and in the LX 4-cylinder I drove with the seat all the way back yet wishing for more tilt in the seat cushion to support my thighs. The power seat in the LX-V6 moves back even farther than I need and the infinite adjustability makes it easy to find the perfect seat position.

     

    I considered the EX-V6 – for about three seconds. For one, I’m not a fan of leather seats. I paid extra once for a car with a factory sunroof and then never used it except to vent the car when parked in the summer. Alloy wheels look nice but add nothing to my driving experience. The extra money wasn’t worth it just to get the integrated XM radio alone (nice feature though).

     

    My original decision to by the LX 4-cylinder was based on too much reading and not enough test driving. I took a big hit trading in a new car but my mistake wasn’t getting any better as the weeks passed. Now I can stop agonizing over my decision and just enjoy owning my V6 Accord. I hope this helps someone else avoid making an expensive mistake either one way or another.
  • venus537venus537 Posts: 1,443
    i considered the LX V6. i refuse to drive a car without alloy wheels - no plastic wheel covers for me - so i would have to have the alloys added. considering the additional "stuff" with the EX V6, the price difference between a LX V6 w/alloys and the EX V6 wasn't large enough for me.

     

    so i went with the EX V6. the EX V6 will probably have better resale value too.

     

    for me, one of the advantages of the i4 accord is the "lighter" feel. it's not only the manual transmission that make the i4 accord more sporty but the lighter engine over the front wheels.
  • xcelxcel Posts: 1,025
    Hi Ktnr:

     

    ___First off, what did you pay for the 05 Accord LX I4 w/ Auto and what did the Honda Dealership give you for your 05 Accord LX in trade for the Accord LX V6? Was it in the area of 15 to low 16’s?

     

    ___Thanks in advance.

     

    ___Wayne R. Gerdes
  • gregoryc1gregoryc1 Posts: 766
    Life is TOO SHORT to own the WRONG CAR! Enjoy your new ride. -----Greg
Sign In or Register to comment.