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Dodge Caravan/Chrysler Voyager

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Comments

  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I don't understand how getting a spare tire hanger can be such a problem. Every local bone yard I've been to over the last several months has had at least a half of a dozen Gen 3 vans, and every one of them has a spare tire hanger under it.

    Are they telling you they won't sell you one or that they don't have any in stock to sell you?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    As many of you know we have two DGCs, a 1998 Sport 3.8 and a 2003 ES 3.8. Back in 2005 I mounted a set of the (then) new Goodyear Assurance TripleTred tires (215/65 R16) on both of our vans. Here we are some 28 months later and the 1998 has already racked up some 65,000 miles on that set of rubber, and while the TripleTreds still had some tread left on them, we've already had well over 50" of snow this winter, and their grip (the set on the 1998 that is) in the snow was a tad nervous, especially as we live in an area with lots of hilly and winding roads.

    Faced with the prospect of yet another 100+ inch snow winter, I decided that after 65,000 miles I'd gotten my money out of them and it was time for a new set. Initially my "short list" for new tires was simple, 1) another set of TripleTreds, or 2) a set of Yokohama AVID TRZ tires that have gotten a number of good reviews over the years and are very reasonably priced. A week or so before I pulled the trigger on the tires I came across reviews from several individuals that had put the very new Cooper CS4 Touring tires on their Chrysler minivans, and had nothing but good things to say about their new shoes.

    I did a little research and found that a set of four could be had for virtually the same price as the Yokohamas, however, the Yokos are getting a little long in the tooth as they have been on the market for several years now while Cooper is using some very new technology to build the CS4s (apparently the same technology as Michelin is using on their new Primacy MXV4 model). Given the relatively modest cost of these tires and their almost ridiculous tread wear warranty of 80,000 miles (yeesh, our 1998 already has well over 150,000 miles on it), I figured they'd be worth a gamble.

    Even thought I have less than a thousand miles on the new Coopers, the miles I have driven have ranged from dry 50 degree road surfaces to cold and wet, ice covered and snow covered up to about six inches. Compared to the TripleTreds that the CS4s replaced, the comparison categories that I can think of stack up as follows:
    Dry grip: Tie
    Wet grip: Tie
    Snow grip: CS4 (by a wide margin)
    Road noise: CS4 (the TripleTreds weren't all that noisy, the CS4s are just quieter)
    Braking: Tie
    Cushy ride: CS4 (I like a firmer ride and prefer the TripleTreds in this category)
    Lateral grip: TripleTred (by a narrow margin)
    Steering response: TripleTred (a subtle but noticeable difference)
    Smoothness when cold: CS4 (the TripleTreds would flat-spot a bit when it was below 10 degrees and would take a few miles to smooth out)

    All in all, these are fairly comparable tires, and given that the CS4s can be had for about $100 less per set (out the door) than the TripleTreds, I think Cooper has done a commendable job on these tires. I predict that they will become very popular with the minivan crowd.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • gary1960gary1960 Member Posts: 5
    Hi,
    i know its 6 months gone since last post.

    i still had the problem until november, the car went altogether, i had no power at all.
    i put a volt meter on the battery, it read 12v, when i turned the ignition it went down to 3v,
    there was now low power clicking, just dead.
    the transit van i have has got excactly the same battery, so i thought i would try the crysler bettery on that.
    i disconnected the neg,
    but when i tried to disconnect the live it was stuck fast, i took the bolt out and gently opened the gripper with a large blade driver, it opened with a crack, inside the gripper and the battery terminal was dry corrosion, i cleaned both till nice and shiny with wire wall, put a bit of copper grease on both live and neg.

    i have not had the problem since, car seams to runn better too, i suppose its not over working the alternator.

    regards.

    gary.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Shipo -

    Thank you for the post! I had TripleTreds on my '96 Outback and found them to be the best performing all-season tires I had tried. I gave up some fuel economy with them, but no regrets having purchased them. I will certainly keep the Coopers in mind if/when I need to replace the tires on the '98 GC.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Interesting, you gave up fuel mileage with the TripleTreds? Wow, I wonder if you have a problem with one or more of your tires.

    Last summer I managed to milk a record number of miles out of a single tank from our 1998 3.8 liter DGC Sport (500+ miles on one tank, 28.2 mpg between a point fifteen miles southwest of Port Huron, MI and the NY-Thruway rest area outside of Albany, NY), and that was with the TripleTreds on the van. Other than that trip, I cannot say that any of the three different types of tires on that van have affected the fuel economy to any measurable degree (or the Bridgestone EL42 vs. the TripleTreds on our 2003 DGC ES for th at matter).

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Fuel economy on that car dropped 5-10% after installation of the tires. The drop was more pronounced in the summer than the winter, but there was no uneven wear of the tires or anything abnormal about the operation of the car to indicate another cause. Regrettably, I lost the car only 25,000 miles after putting on the tires, but the drop was consistent over that time frame (13 months).

    Who knows though. The car had 195,000 miles on it when the tires were installed, so anything is possible. They were still fabulous tires! ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Ahhh, I see the disconnect. Our 1998 only had 145,000 miles on it when it did the 500 mile tank. ;)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Hahaha! Only 145,000 huh? Sheesh, that's just a baby. :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Yup, just barely broke in. ;-)
  • max46max46 Member Posts: 1
    I just installed an OEM regulator and motor for a 99 caravan.
    the installation was clumsy, but its in and pretty clean looking.
    Question. The motor is really slow in the up direction. Down travel is really fast.
    Makes sense, but the motor is getting really hot.
    I could wrap up the job, but I know the motor will fail if I leave it like this. Its a friends car and she has already put out $200 for each of the two front windows already.
    It seems like the motor doesn't have the *alls to lift the window.
    Any advice is welcome.
  • als8als8 Member Posts: 1
    my 98 caravan is not feeling well when i put it in drive and take off it makes a loud funny noise like a loud vibration or something like a clogged converter the noise will stop when it shifts into second then it seems ok i checked the fluid and it was pretty black.any ideas on what it could be im hoping something simple.id appreciate any help thank you
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I recently did the same thing on our 1998 DGC (left side only) and have found the same thing as you even though I used a regulator from NAPA ($114 per side) instead of the factory unit. I decided to leave it in there and see how long it will last, and so far, so good, it's been about three months and even though it's slow, it keeps lifting the glass. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • vanhalen2000vanhalen2000 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know why this happens, and/or how to fix it? I have a 2000 Caravan, and after it rains I get very visible black streaks on the sides and back hatch. I washed and wax/polished the entire van. Still get black streaks. I even wax/polished the roof rack, some black residue did come off of the rack onto the paper towels but I think I got all the black residue off. I still get the streaking. Auughhh! And guess what, the van is white. I guess it's the roof rack and all other rubber/plastic window moulding/etc. that is deteriorating, but I don't know why it doesn't happen on everyone's vehicle. My van isn't new but 8 years old isn't that old. Is there anything I can do to fix it? It looks awful. :cry: :confuse:
  • mellie3mellie3 Member Posts: 5
    when i start my 2000 plymouth voyager it makes a rattling noise.only happens when it sits for 2 hrs then starting it agian it makes the same noise.what could it be?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Assumption: Your 2000 Voyager has a 3.3 liter engine. Yes, no?

    Could the "rattling" also be described as a clattering noise from the engine? If so you or your mechanic are/is probably using an oil filter that has a crappy Anti-Drainback Valve (not to be confused with a crappy filter as many high dollar filters have worthless ADVs). With our 1998 Caravan I've tried any number of filters over the years, and so far at least, the Motorcraft FL-1A filter (available at Walmart and Autozone, and I'm sure many other places) keeps the engine the quietest by a wide margin. In fact the "margin" is so wide that I've stopped trying other filters and will use NOTHING but the FL-1A.

    If you decide to use the Motorcraft filter, do not be alarmed by its large size, Chrysler and Ford used filters built to the same specs for literally decades, and when Chrysler specified the smaller filter that came on our vans, they simply lopped the last couple of inches off of the large cannister filters, slapped a new model number on them and called it a day. That said, instead of adding five quarts following an oil change, now you'll need to add ~5.2 or 5.3 quarts to bring the oil up to the "Full" mark on the dipstick.

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • mellie3mellie3 Member Posts: 5
    yes it does.well i also have had a rebiult tranny within tha last month.noise is getting harder.just had a oil change its now more of a knocking.i thinks its a rod.help.any suggestions what to do.trade it in, try lucas oil, new engine.only when starting and press on the gas to take of.does not knock when idling.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    When you say the noise is "getting harder", does that mean that you hear it for more than a second or two following a cold start? If so then you might well have a bearing or other engine issue, however, if the noise is only apparent immediately following a cold start (as you stated in your first post), you should change your oil filter NOW to a Motorcraft FL-1A, no joke, this WILL solve your problem.

    If you have a rod pounding, the noise will not subside in the least after an engine start, cold or hot, it will pound all of the time. Regarding Lucas oil additives, nope, if you truely have a problem, that stuff won't help (in fact, it won't help even if you don't have a problem).

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • mellie3mellie3 Member Posts: 5
    see thats the thingit doesnt pound all the time just when started and now as u press on the gas until it shifts..when its stoped at a light its quiet.when in park its quiet.just when starting and sometimes when u press on the gas until it shifts.i just hadd oil changed.do u think if i by the new filter can they put it in for me?every answer will help me.i own the van and want to keep it for awhile.lol.what about a tune up.im saving up for it.2wks or less.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, if the engine makes a mechanical pounding at anytime after the first few seconds following a cold start then you have a problem that an oil filter will not solve. Long story short, you need some engine work if that's the case, we're talking some serious dollars here.

    Question: Did you ever run this engine low on oil at any point? Have you ever seen the oil pressure light illuminate?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • mellie3mellie3 Member Posts: 5
    yes unfortunally i have.but i always added oil as soon as i saw it.how much are we talkin here?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I assume the "how much" question is in regards to money. Yes, no?

    As I see it, if you have lower end damage (i.e. a rod pounding or other bearing related damage), you have three basic options.

    1) Have the engine repaired. This one may be a cost effective option assuming that the crank shaft hasn't yet been damaged. Probably your best bet here would be to have a competent mechanic pull the oil pan (which on our vans is easy and doesn't require the removal of any frame, engine mount, or suspension components) and examine the crank and bearing assemblies. If the crank is damaged, you'll probably need to have the engine pulled, and that's where the price rises considerably. That said, if the crank is in good shape, you'll probably be able to get away with a set of main and rod bearings and an oil pan gasket. Total cost should be under $500.

    2) A used engine from a bone yard. The good news here is that these engines are very plentiful (there are lots of minivans on the road these days), and typically good for at least 200,000 miles with only minimal maintenance. I've heard reports of folks finding engines in great condition with less than 100,000 miles on them for only a couple of hundred dollars. You can probably buy the used motor and pay to have it installed for less than $1,000.

    3) A new shortblock. The web site http://www.dodgeparts.com lists a new short block (a fully built up engine block that includes the crank, bearings, pistons, cam and all of then necessary hardware above the oil pan and below the cylinder heads) for $1,254 for the 3.3 liter engine. If you decide to go this route, you'll have to pay someone to pull your old mill, move the upper end of the engine (heads, manifolds, covers...) and the lower end components (oil pan and such) to the new block and then reinstall it in your van. The total cost here is probably between $2,000 and $2,500.

    Were it that I had an older van that needed an engine but was otherwise in good condition, I'd probably opt for option #2, errr, that is if I didn't have the ability to do my own work. In my case, I'd probably yank the motor, overhaul it and slap it back in. The total cost (not counting my labor) is probably well under $1,000, and will yield what is essentially a "new" engine. So, feel handy and feel like getting your hands dirty? ;)

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • mellie3mellie3 Member Posts: 5
    thank you.
  • up1n5m0k3up1n5m0k3 Member Posts: 1
    Could someone tell me whats going on here, or whats the problem?.......
    it started high reving to 2000 revs then it dropped for a bit,
    20 mins of driving, I stopped the engine then all hell broke loose,
    it started bubbling, it over heated so I put the heaters on in the car and steam came out of the front vent, steamed the window up and then a smell of like it was electrical
    so anyone know what could be the problem? please help!!!. its a 3.3 le gas conversion :confuse: :sick: :cry:
  • sdodenhoffsdodenhoff Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone experienced their low-beam headlights changing intensity and/or flickering on and off? We just bought our van (with 38K miles) this week and discovered this problem last night. I am sure there is a simple solution. Any help or advice will be appreciated.
  • gary1960gary1960 Member Posts: 5
    check battery terminal, even if it looks clean, it maybe corroded inside.
    also check wire loom under bonnett, right hand side of engine, make sure it is fastened up, mine dropped down on to the excaust manifold and burnt, cost £300 to get fixed.
  • brianz3brianz3 Member Posts: 3
    I had an engine light with a code of PO406 (EGR flow sensory high input) Anyone else have this?
  • peycasspeycass Member Posts: 4
    This 2002 Chrysler Voyager's first problem, would go dead without warning, and then start right back. After about 6 weeks of this problem it would jerk and then go dead and sometime would not start back for awhile. We had the fuel filter, fuel pump, crank shaft sensor, oil pressure sending unit changed with no luck. After 3 different mechanical shops we finally have the problem solved. A $60.00 cam sensor fixed the problem. This was a hard problem to diagnose because it would not give a problem code. If we had changed this part first we would have saved over $1000.00. I hope this post will help someone out there with the same problem. Peycass
  • cannell3cannell3 Member Posts: 45
    The driver's seat in our 1997 GC is rocking back and forth; is it possible to tighten up loose nuts and bolts to secure it, or is it something more diffiicult? Thanks! :confuse:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    Possibly, if the looseness is caused by nuts/bolts. There are three points I have found where it could be loose due to bolts: where the seat attaches to the rail, where the rail attaches to the seat bracket, and where the seat bracket attaches to the floor of the vehicle. If those are all tight, then the problem is probably the adjustment rail itself. That year of van should be fairly easy to inspect for the source of the problem, as the assembly is fairly accessible.

    Good luck!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • docbunnerdocbunner Member Posts: 11
    I have a Dodge Grand Caravan Sport 2003 with a 3.8L motor with about 97,000 miles on it. I had spark plugs, rotor distributor cap and wires replaced at about 60,000 miles. Lately I have discovered some slight rough idling and a lowering of rpms at idling and poor gas milage. In researching the causes of poor gas milage on other sites, I discovered that they talked about the MAF sensor as likely being the culprit. I watched a video at http://videos.streetfire.net/video/How-to-clean-your-MAF_80603.htm which gives a very informative way of cleaning it. I was wondering if anyone else had this trouble.
    I also found out that the dealers go out of their way to do everything possible to get your money without fixing the problem. I learned this from veiwing comments located at http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4SNCA_enUS257US25- 7&q=mass+airflow+sensor+wires+cleaning and learned alot.
    I started distrusting the dealer after I took my van in for the so called recall on the upper power steering hose. I never had any problem until they replaced the hose, then had whining noise, shuddering when sturning. They tried to get me to change the whole power steering components. After doing reasearch I discoverd the problem was in the contamination of the fluid in changing the hose. I had it back power flushed and it solved the problem. They still don't know how to do it correctly at the dealership. That is why I am asking if anyone else had this type of fuel economy problem?
  • gatorinatlantagatorinatlanta Member Posts: 1
    I need a little help.

    The short hose between the oil reservoir and the air filter compartment has cracked on my 2000 Grand Caravan with a 3.3L engine. My engine light came on and I'm hoping that this is the problem.

    Does anyone know the proper nomenclature for this hose? Is it available from a local parts place like NAPA or Autozone, or will I need to go to a dealer to get it?

    Thanks in advance for any help that you can provide.
  • roberta1410roberta1410 Member Posts: 3
    Can the rails be adjusted for the Drivers front seat? I need to put the seat back a little farther than it is, same with the Passenger side? If it can be adjusted can you give me directions or diagram on what to do. Goint on a trip and need to be a little more comfortable.
    Thanks you
    .Roberta
  • gitty_popsgitty_pops Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan. Both power sliding door switches near the doors have stopped working. You can operate them with the key remote or the switches on the overhead console but not the switches on the door pillars. I have no idea where the owners manual is, my wife took it out for more room in the glove box. DUH!!! As far as I know everything else operates and functions normally. Any help would be appreciated.
  • docbunnerdocbunner Member Posts: 11
    OBD Codes for 1996-2003 Cars go to the following site:
    http://autorepair.about.com/od/obdcodedatabase/a/OBD_1996_year.htm

    Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected see below:
    OBD-II Codes P0300 - P0399
    P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
    P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
    P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
    P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
    P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
    P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
    P0307 Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
    P0308 Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
    P0309 Cylinder 9 Misfire Detected
    P0310 Cylinder 10 Misfire Detected
    P0311 Cylinder 11 Misfire Detected
    P0312 Cylinder 12 Misfire Detected
    P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
    P0321 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
    P0322 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
    P0323 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
    P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
    P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
    P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
    P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
    P0329 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
    P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
    P0331 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
    P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
    P0333 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
    P0334 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)
    P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
    P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
    P0337 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
    P0338 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input
    Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
    P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
    P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
    P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
    P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
    P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
    P0350 Ignition Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    P0355 Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    P0358 Ignition Coil H Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    Ignition Coil I Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    P0360 Ignition Coil J Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    P0361 Ignition Coil K Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    P0362 Ignition Coil L Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
    P0370 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Malfunction
    P0371 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Many Pulses
    P0372 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Few Pulses
    P0373 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Intermittent/Erratic Pulses
    P0374 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A No Pulses
    P0375 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Malfunction
    P0376 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Many Pulses
    P0377 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Few Pulses
    P0378 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Intermittent/Erratic Pulses
    P0379 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B No Pulses
    P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" Malfunction
    P0381 Glow Plug/Heater Indicator Circuit Malfunction
    P0382 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "B" Malfunction
    P0385 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
    P0386 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
    P0387 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
    P0388 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit High Input
    P0389 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Intermittent
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    Check your overhead console there is an on/off button to the left of the rear door controls.If this button is set to off the buttons on the pillars of the rear seats do not work.
  • hcederlofhcederlof Member Posts: 3
    I have a grand voyager that discharge the battery when the car is not used.
    It discharge quickly and when I measure the current from the battery when everything is off or appears to be off it still consumes 1.5-2 amps constantly.
    I have removed all fuses and relays in the fusebox in the engine compartment and it still consumes this amout of corrent.
    1. is this a normal level?
    2. if not, where do I start looking?

    greatful for any advice.
  • etpetp Member Posts: 155
    Just bought two of these (a Grand for me and T&C for my daughter). We both got the 4.0 with 6 speed and they drive perfect. I was a mechanic until 911 and these seem to be tight well built vehicles. Just wondered how eveyone else was doing with their 2009 GC and TC. :):):):):)
  • mrtwister3mrtwister3 Member Posts: 1
    :( I had an accident and broke the rear lift gate outside handle on my 2002 Grand Caravan.
    can anyone recommend an auto salvage yard or parts supplier that would carry a replacement part?

    MoparPartz.Com has one of these listed but there is no picture, so I am not sure
    If I am ordering everything I need.

    Thanks
  • jennydawgjennydawg Member Posts: 2
    Hi,I have a 96 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8 ltr,148k . Code reads P0300...
    It drives great on short trips but on longer ones it all of a sudden loses power and the service engine light starts blinking.It will regain power after a few but it runs rough and sputters(what's the word) it backfired a few times when this happend to my husband.
    I have replaced the coil,spark plugs/wires,and the PCM..600.00 + and it's still doing the same thing.
    It seems to be only when it heats to a certain temp..I don't know,I have lots of things on my list but I was hoping someone may be able to help me narrow it down a bit more.
    Heres my list of potential culprates:camshaft position sensor,crankshaft sensor,
    oxygen sensor,MAP sensor,fuel presure regulator, EGR and burned exhaust valve.
    Really trying to save money on repairs and I do most simple repairs myself.
    I have inspected all vaccum lines as well,they are ok.
    Peace & Wellness
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    Technical Description
    Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

    What does that mean?
    Basically this means that the the car's computer has detected that not all of the engine's cylinders are firing properly.

    A P0300 OBD DTC code indicates a random or multiple misfire. If the last digit is a number other than zero, it corresponds to the cylinder number that is misfiring. A P0302 code, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. Unfortunately, a P0300 doesn't tell you specifically which cylinder(s) is/are mis-firing, nor why.

    Symptoms may include:
    the engine may be harder to start
    the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
    other symptoms may also be present

    Causes
    A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
    Faulty spark plugs or wires
    Faulty coil (pack)
    Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
    Faulty fuel injector(s)
    Burned exhaust valve
    Faulty catalytic converter(s)
    Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
    Faulty camshaft position sensor
    Defective computer


    Possible Solutions
    If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.

    If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.

    Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.
  • jennydawgjennydawg Member Posts: 2
    Thanks,I will look at the latter items first.
    Peace & Wellness~
  • docbunnerdocbunner Member Posts: 11
    When I come to a stop my idle drops down to about 500 RPMs while in drive. then I get check engine light on. In checking the code it reads P420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). This light does not come on if I put it in Neutral when I come to a stop. In fact, the RPMs, remain at about 750. Can you please help me decide what is going on
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    Technical Description
    Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

    What does that mean?
    The catalytic converter has an oxygen sensor in front and behind it. When the vehicle is warm and running in closed loop mode, the upstream oxygen sensor waveform reading should fluctuate. The downstream O2 sensor reading should be fairly steady. Typically the P0420 code triggers the Check Engine Light if the readings of the two sensors are similar. This is indicative of (among other things) a converter that is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system.

    Symptoms
    You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms.

    Causes
    A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

    Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for
    An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly
    The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly
    Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / exhaust pipe
    Retarded spark timing
    The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings

    Possible Solutions

    Some suggested steps for troubleshooting a P0420 code include:

    Check for exhaust leaks at the manifold, pipes, catalytic converter. Repair as required.
    Use a scope to diagnose the oxygen sensor operation (Tip: The oxygen sensor in front of the catalytic converter normally has a fluctuating waveform. The waveform of the sensor behind the converter should be more steady).
    Inspect the downstream heated oxygen sensor (HO2), replace if necessary
    Replace the catalytic converter
    One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.
  • car_kencar_ken Member Posts: 1
    I had a very similar problem with my '96 Dodge Caravan 3.3 liter. About 8 miles on the highway at 65 mph and it would lose power, if I waited an hour the problem was gone. I found that if I drove under 55 mph I would get no failure at least for the short distance I was traveling to work. MIL codes were 11, 22, 7,27,43 (misfire),61,55...so there were some strange codes but the misfire stood out. I took it to two different mechanics...one said he wasn't sure, the other replaced the coil which did no fix the problem. Per previous comments this thread I replaced the crank position sensor, but that did not correct problem. I noticed in the repair manual that there is a also camshaft position sensor so I replaced that since function appeared similar to crank sensor. That fixed the problem. Fyi and thanks for all input.
  • kboingjrkboingjr Member Posts: 1
    My 1996 Dodge Caravan can not be inspected because the "on-board computer
    is not compatable with the state's inspection computers". When you run the
    reguired tests, the process quits and machine reads: TEST ABORTED. Do I need
    a whole, new, more modern on-board computer or is this a fuse/fuse box fix that I should for?
  • ozvoyagerozvoyager Member Posts: 1
    hi...I have an 04 Voyager..can anyone tell me if there is any difference in the suspension between this model and the previous model...I have access to aftermarket sway bars from the previous model and would like to fit them to my 04...thanks
  • ongomoongomo Member Posts: 1
    My 2007 3.3 ltr Grand Caravan with 42,000KM, has developed a whine that is not really loud but gets louder when hot & is quite noticeable when you turn on the A/C. The pitch of the whine changes as you rev up the engine. If on a steep hill (down) & put it in low gear to ease down slowly you can hear it quite loud. When I first complained, Dealer replaced the Alternator & idle saying the bearings were not good. Next they changed the A/C pump when I pointed out that it got louder when that clicked on and off. No change after either "fix". They say it really isn't that loud and is a normal thing. They contacted Chrysler and were unable to find any help there - it really isn't a problem (unless you are the one driving it!)... Today they took it in and to make me happy they took the trans. pan off, checked the oil & all components & found it was all good. No problems. No fix. Noise still there. Suggestions?
  • jtap0916jtap0916 Member Posts: 3
    My 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan just failed smog due to the EVAP leaks. Can you tell us what needs to replace? Is it a vacuum hose or is it a major fix.

    Thanks for your time.
  • scarter711scarter711 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 grand caravan and my interior sliding door buttons do not work. My keypad button does open the door. any ideas.

    thanks
  • docbunnerdocbunner Member Posts: 11
    check your console on the roof. You have an on and off switch that is for turning the controls off to the sliding door as a child proof. I have myself turned this off and forgot I did so. When I took it in to get it checked out the service guy told me to chec k this switch. Hope this helps.
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