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Older Honda Accords

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Comments

  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    I am sure Ivory is a great color but I feel very strongly against Ivory just as some folks seem to feel against gray or black. Another reason for my dislike of Ivory is the fact that Ivory has to be accompanied with a wood trim interior while the charcoal and even gray can be accompanied by carbon fiber trim.
    My dislike is with the color itself and has nothing to do with how clean people can keep it. If one were to really like Ivory and are worried about keeping it clean then they can buy one of the warrantied teflon packages that the dealer would be happy to sell. If you still get dirt they will clean it for you.
    I think that Honda should offer more than 1 interior color so that people who dislike a particular interior color would still have an option. Due to the limited choices, I seriously considered a Camry but backed out after all the issues that people wrote about on the Camry thread.
    I also have a Honda Pilot EXL with Nav and I like Honda Products but my only complaint is the lack of interior color choices.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    I'm with you on the ivory color. My '95 has it and it was okay for awhile but I like black much better (which is what I have on my '06).

    Of course, color is one of those subjective things. I do agree that it would be nice if Honda offered a choice. It seems especially odd since they had other options on the carbon bronze for '06. Maybe you and I were the only ones who liked it! :)
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    My Accord VP has Goodyear tires.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    That's interesting - at one time Honda mounted Michelin tires exclusively on the Accord (maybe other models, too, for all I know). My '96 Accord had the Michelins and they "sang" - really so on coarse pavement. Be glad you have Goodyear - they're probably quieter running than the Michelins I had. How much pressure do you run? I like to run my tires several pounds higher than what the owner's manual specifies. But, there are some who inflate right up to (or beyond) the cold maximum pressure molded on the sidewall.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Goodyear tires are cheaper than Michelin tires. That's why they use them on the VP. Why do you inflate your tires over the manual specs? The maximum pressure molded on the sidewall is the maximum pressure allowed for that tire. It should never be inflated to that pressure. Using higher air pressures will increase tire wear, decrease grip, and give you a rougher ride. The only thing that may improve with increasing pressure is mileage, but it will not be enough, to be worth it.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    My 06 EX-L w/Navi came with Bridgestones.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Some owners complain that the Michelins don't have much grip (the MXV4s are tires designed to ride smooth and quiet). Bridgestones are more of a performance tire. I'm thinking about getting Bridgestones when my Michelins wear out. Not sure about the ride quality though.
  • avianfluavianflu Member Posts: 33
    Totally agree here BINU...Lack of color choices: charcoal or cardboard not the most fulfilling selections...
    Have of up grade to a Porsche BMW or Bentley if
    you want a blue interior. Us poor folks must make due with these two colors...It is a common problem through out the auto industry, with accountants squeezing the options in order to survive. For example the Porsche 911 has 26 interior choices. Be interesting to know the last year one could actually order an Accord with the beloved blue interior?
  • beedublubeedublu Member Posts: 236
    I can't speak for the current model Accord, but in August 04 I test drove an Accord LX/auto sedan back to back with the 04 Malibu Maxx V6 that I ended up buying -- thanks mostly to the GM Card rebate -- and I was amazed by how "V6-like" the Honda 2.4 engine was. I could honestly forget about the fact that it had two fewer cylinders than the Chevy. I drove both cars several times, one after the other, on a variety of roads, too.

    Equally impressive was the Accord's 5-speed automatic transmission: It always seemed to be in the right gear, with no sign of hunting.

    In a way, I almost wish I had bought the Honda, but it would have been much more $$ and no hatchback.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "Why do you inflate your tires over the manual specs? The maximum pressure molded on the sidewall is the maximum pressure allowed for that tire. It should never be inflated to that pressure. Using higher air pressures will increase tire wear, decrease grip, and give you a rougher ride." ((

    Higher pressures will increase tire life because it results in cooler running. With less sidewall flexing, handling will also be improved slightly because there'll be reduced tread squirm. Still doubtful? Check in with Tirerack.com for their advice on maximizing tire life. The only thing you got right was that the higher pressure will result in somewhat stiffer ride quality. (a very minor consideration I can live with quite comfortably at the 3-5 lb increase I run my tires at) Your inexcusable implication that I advocated running the pressure up to the sidewall maximum is reproachful and/or the result of poor reading comprehension.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Your inexcusable implication that I advocated running the pressure up to the sidewall maximum is reproachful and/or the result of poor reading comprehension.

    If the sidewall maximum pressure was not part of your decision on tire pressure, why did you mention it? I didn't just pull that out of thin air. I will run my tires at the recommended pressures. I think the people who designed the car know more than you do.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    " I think the people who designed the car know more than you do. "

    I'd think so too. But for whatever reason, that doesn't seem to be the case at least 100% of the time. E.g. a while ago the Explorer/Firestone tire debacle. Ford ended up raising the recommended tire pressure from something like 25 psi. Personally I try to keep my tire pressures 2 or 3 psi higher than the recommended ones for easier maintenance and better gas mileage.
  • wildman63wildman63 Member Posts: 27
    I have driven my new Accord EX-L just once at night. I did notice the headlights dimming as I slowed down for a turn. This has been mentioned on this site a couple of times.

    Today I talked to the service manager at the dealership where I bought the car last May. He was very well aware of the situation and printed a page from a Honda Service News dated December, 2000. The information applies to all Hondas except the Passport (that was made by Isuzu, I think).

    The situation is caused by the Electronic Load Detector (ELD). The function of the ELD is to send a message to the ECM/PCM to lower the alternator's output when demand decreases. Its function is used to reduce engine load (saving gas) during low power situations.

    I was told there is no "fix" for the situation. It's "not a fault, just a characteristic". An earlier poster said his dealer corrected the situation... I'm wondering what's going on. The condition is a little anoying.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Here is why I don't trust service managers.

    http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Honda/1123052400000_1124089200000_05-034/

    Mrbill
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    And that's why I have my own service manual. The dealer (service manager) will not see my car, unless I cannot find the problem, and fix it myself.
  • woodcreekwoodcreek Member Posts: 2
    My wife test drove the four cylinder Accord and wants to buy it. I used to take pictures of car accidents for a newspaper and am kind of a safety nut. Buying a 2007 car without ESC is a non starter for me. Does anyone know how soon Honda will put ESC in the four cylinder Accord? It is a question of "when" not "if" and we can wait a bit. Thanks
  • wildman63wildman63 Member Posts: 27
    Thanks, Mrbill...

    It didn't seem right that the millions of Honda cars on the road since the turn of the century would have this "characteristic" without some kind of fix for it. I'll be better armed when I go back to the dealership with a TSB number.

    elroy5 is a lot smarter than me. He can fix his car... it's a good day when I can get inside and drive mine ;-)

    Appreciate everybody's help.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    elroy5 is a lot smarter than me. He can fix his car... it's a good day when I can get inside and drive mine

    Oh, I wouldn't say that. While I was learning (the little I do know) about cars, I'm sure you were learning something else, that was important to YOU. Different strokes ;)
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    They said all newly designed models would have VSA by 2007, so the next new design after 2007 is the 2008 Accord.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    They said all newly designed models would have VSA by 2007, so the next new design after 2007 is the 2008 Accord.
  • beedublubeedublu Member Posts: 236
    Just my two cents...but is this really that important for a car? SUVs, yes. But the Accord has a pretty low tip-over rating (or whatever the gov't calls it) to begin with, IMHO.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "If the sidewall maximum pressure was not part of your decision on tire pressure, why did you mention it? ... I think the people who designed the car know more than you do." ((

    Grow up and get a clue, elroy5. I mentioned it in passing because there are morons who do run at the maximum sidewall pressure (and above...). That's a fact - not an endorsement of a dangerous practice. As to who may or may not know more than myself, it's both irrelevant and beyond your personal purview. I would note, though, that the Ford Explorer/Firestone tire multiple death fiasco had as one of its bases Ford's own written recomendations in the owner's manual that the tires be run at at a measly 24 lbs pressure - this in a high center of gravity SUV by "people who designed the car [and] know more than [I] do" and would knowingly be called on to carry up to eight people, their luggage, and their camping paraphenalia - some of which could be lashed to the roof, further exacerbating the rollover tendencies of an already top-heavy rig. Now, if my running my tires at 35 lbs instead of Hyundai's recommended 30 lbs bothers you so much, A) get over it, or B) don't read my posts - they're clearly identified.
  • woodcreekwoodcreek Member Posts: 2
    You're probably right, but I'm a nervous Minnesota guy and don't relish the idea of having my last thought as I slide off a road into an oncoming semi being, "I saved $2 grand by getting the 4 cylinder wihtout the ESC."
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Believe me, when I say, I could not care less what pressure you run your tires at. You can run them at 100psi for all I care. Maybe you will get 50mpg.

    You mentioned the sidewall max. pressure (in passing or whatever). I just told you that it had nothing to do with recommended pressure (for any particular car). What is your problem? You have a bad attitude, that needs adjustment.
  • jimbresjimbres Member Posts: 2,025
    Stability control does more than just reduce the likelihood of vehicle rollover. Its most important function is to prevent skids, which makes it a valuable safety feature for all types of vehicles.

    We bought our 1st ESC-equipped car in '99, & it's saved our bacon a couple of times. I'm with woodcreek - I'd wouldn't consider a car without it. (IIRC, it added only $600 to the cost of our car.)
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770
    We bought our 1st ESC-equipped car in '99, & it's saved our bacon a couple of times. I'm with woodcreek - I'd wouldn't consider a car without it

    Agree.

    That's why I'm giving the Sonata a more careful look. (Though I'd rather go with Honda.)

    Also, Honda doesn't provide a grey interior with a black car.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "Believe me, when I say, I could not care less what pressure you run your tires at. You can run them at 100psi for all I care. Maybe you will get 50mpg. ... What is your problem? You have a bad attitude, that needs adjustment." ((

    I've got a bad attitude? Do you have any idea how immature that initial outburst makes you look? As far as attitude, better re-read your first post to my initial comments about tire pressure, bud. Your advice was not only wrong (others have subsequently pointed that out, too), but personally argumentative and demeaning. Doesn't appear anything's changed in your subsequent posts, either. I'll allow you the unearned privilege of one last childish retort to finish what you started. Will that satisfy you? ;)
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    No, no more personal remarks please. If you two need to continue this, please take it off-line.

    Thank you.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    VSC is certainly usefull, however it does not give you tractin if there is none to be had. I have it on my minivan and it is very easy to make the vehicle lose control around a corner if conditions are slippery enough (sheet ice) - and I use snow/ice tires in the winter.

    Anybody who is concerned about sliding off of the road should certainly have 4 snow tires on the vehicle in the winter time. They are much cheaper than VSA and give a much greater benifit as they actually increase available traction. I have run 4 snow tires for 15 years in South Dakota and the benefits are astounding. The VSA while usefull does not offer as much of an improvement in my opinion.

    To sum up - having both is an incredible safety advantage. I was stuck in a blizzard last year (6 up to 18 inches of snow and steady 50 mph + winds from the side) and the car was so stable the kids in the back did not even realize the weather was bad (when we started the trip it was 50 degrees and raining - SD weather is unpredicatable). They were just happy it was taking longer so they could watch another movie.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    )) "He was very well aware of the situation and printed a page from a Honda Service News dated December, 2000. ... I was told there is no 'fix' for the situation. It's 'not a fault, just a characteristic'. An earlier poster said his dealer corrected the situation... I'm wondering what's going on." ((

    My '96 Accord did the same thing for the entire six and a half years I owned it. So did a '73 Ford I owned. My current '03 Sonata did it, too. But, several months into ownership I received a letter from Hyundai explaining the "problem" and inviting me to return the car to my dealer to have the engine idle speed checked against specifications, and if correct, install a slightly smaller pulley onto the alternator. This was done under warranty and seems to have fixed the headlight dimming issue.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    It really does not matter when or if you switch to synthetic oil. Any engine will go 200,000 miles or more if modern oils are used and changed regularly.

    The best thing about synthetic is it protects better in the extreme cold because it flows better, and you can safely use the manufactures oil schedule (or extend it further). 3,000 mile oil changes are a thing of the past - they do no harm, but serve no real purpose unless you really are going to try and put 300,000 or more miles on the car.

    I have a 17 year old Integra that has had synthetic since 3,000 miles (it now has 218,000 miles) and the engine looks like new inside. The problem is the rest of the car is starting to fall apart (hard life with three young boys - seats are stained and worn down, rust is starting, original clutch is wearing etc.), so what benefit does the clean engine give me?
  • pikaapikaa Member Posts: 3
    I bought a 2007Accord SE sedan about a month ago. Last night, while I was driving, the engine was turned off by itself. Luckily I could park my car on the side of the road and I tried to restart the engine. However, it wouldn't start. When I tried to restart it, I heard some motor's spinning, but that was it. Nothing more. Battery was fine and everything seemed ok except that it wouldn't start. I had no choice so I towed it to Honda service. My car's milage is 6500. I couldn't believe what just happened! I always warmed it up before I drove and never went over 3000 rpm.
    Today, at Honda service dept, I heard my car might have a serious problem. They couldn't figure it out after two hours working on it. They said they need to tear my car down to find the problem. If they do, my car won't be a new car any more. I need your advice how to handle this situation. If it's indeed a serious problem, is it possible that I can get it replaced with another new car? I am so frustrated. Please help me out. Thank you in advance.
    From Austin, TX.
  • pikaapikaa Member Posts: 3
    Sorry. There was a typo. Milage is 650, not 6500.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    This is unrelated, but, why did you always warm up the car?
  • pikaapikaa Member Posts: 3
    Since this is a new car, warming it up for 30sec-1min is good for mechanical parts. That's what I've been doing with new cars and people told me so as well.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Hmm; I've never heard that, and none of my family has ever put that into practice (not even eleven years ago on my 1996 Accord that is up to 167,000 miles). Sounds to me like it's just wasting fuel. The best way to warm up a car is to drive moderately, IMO.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Personally, I doubt you will get a new car. You may get a rebuilt motor.

    But there also are dozens of other things, rather than a 'ruined' motor, that could cause a no-start condition.

    What I would do, with a car with only 650 miles and will not start, firmly demand, and if unsuccessful, then rant and rave, for a very nice car to drive while Honda is working on your car.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    " so what benefit does the clean engine give me? "

    Excellent point. Besides presumably better efficiency and reliability in those 218K miles, you'd have saved a ton of time since you only needed to change the oil maybe twice a year as opposed to 4 times a year?
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    A new car like that shouldn't have "dropped the engine" like that regardless what pikaa did or not, short of running the engine with no oil that is. It'd be a shame if Honda refused to give him another NEW car! :mad: Demand a loaner AND another NEW car pikaa! :lemon:
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If it's indeed a serious problem, is it possible that I can get it replaced with another new car?

    There is no chance you will get a replacement car. Replacement engine maybe, but a new car, no way. I hope there are some competent techs working on the problem. How far from the dealership do you live? Good luck

    PS: Please wait and see if the problem can be resolved to your satisfaction, before going off the deep end.
  • sbaraneksbaranek Member Posts: 4
    The 05 EX belongs to my wife. She got it for Christmas, we went to pick it up and... ended up leaving for service on the first day because when the paper work was ready and we took it home we noticed the heating didn't work. It was Saturday night and we had to wait till Monday morning. We were told that something was not connected. It has worked since until today. Same problem. It's still under warranty 28K but has anyone experienced a similar problem? I have searched this forum and found nothing about the heating problem. Any response will be appreciated. Thank you. Sebastian of Chicago
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I never tried to make a claim in Honda's defense, I was just curious as to "why he warmed the car up." Nothing more.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    Sorry thegrad, my post wasn't meant to be directed at you :)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Some owners' manuals do state that in extremely cold weather to allow the engine to warm up to a minute before driving off - mainly to allow enough heat to build so that warm air's available from the heater/defroster. But in general, I agree with you - start the engine and drive off gently once initial engine noise settles down. (Engines with hydraulic valve tappets may clatter briefly until oil pressure builds.) Doing that will warm the engine more quickly than allowing the engine to operate unloaded. Once the temp gauge needle comes off its peg under way, the car can be driven normally, though hard accelertion should still be avoided until the needle hits the quarter-warm mark. But some folks' habit of letting the car sit for five minutes or more "warming up" until the needle hits the midpoint after startup does more harm than good because the engine is running "rich" (high fuel to air ratio) most of that time. Routinely allowing a motor to idle rich causes fuel and soot dilution in the motor oil which in turn results in accelerated engine wear and sludge/varnish deposits.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,439
    If the engine turns over but doesn't catch, it does not sound like they will be tearing down or replacing the engine. If something broke inside, it wouldn't turn over!

    One thing that happens occasionally is a glitch in the imobilizer key system. If the car's brain decides that the key isn't correct, it can shut down or not start (although I am not sure if it would be dead vs. cranking but not starting).

    SOmetimes problmes like this can be difficult to track down, but very simple when they do (loose wire, bad ground, something like that). So, in terms of demanding a new car, give them a chance to diagnose and fix the problem, and make sure to carefully inspect the car (and take a test drive) when you get it back to make sure that nothing was screwed up in the process.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    This discussion has been reopened in accordance with this post: Sylvia, "Forums Software! Your Questions Answered..." #3319, 12 Nov 2006 2:43 pm. :)
  • deewofdeewof Member Posts: 11
    Talk about buyer's remorse ! ! I just traded my '03 Accord for an '06 Accord, both 4dr. sedans w/ same 244 hp V - 6. My statistical sampling is still quite limited, but so far, the 31+ hiway mpg I consistently got w/ the '03 is now a puny, paltry, 25.86, also mostly hiway. And when you factor in that I went from a 4 - speed to a 5 - speed automatic, this is hard to swallow. I'm prone to wonder if there might be a brake caliper sticking. Any plausible theories out there that might shed light on this baffling turn of events ? It may upset the oil co's., but I'd love to get a clue. Oh yeah, odometer readings: the '03 had 64,400, the '06 has 3,800.
  • spiff72spiff72 Member Posts: 179
    One possibility:

    The engine could still be breaking in...

    Also, what are the mileage figures according to the EPA for those vehicles? Are they essentially the same?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    A few things:

    Your 2003 did NOT have a 4-speed, all 2003-current model Accords have had 5-speed Automatics or manuals.

    You were getting great mileage on your old one; remember that as cars break in, mileage improves. Mine has improved about 2 MPG average on my 4-cylinder 2006 Accord since I purchased it. Started out getting 26-28 MPG, now I'm consistently at or above 30 MPG.

    Also, since you recently changed cars, gas companies have also recently started using their "winter" formulas, which lower mileage by about 10%, IIRC. You were likely getting those 30+ MPG numbers from summer-formula gasoline.

    The engines are NOT the exact same, in case you didn't know. Your 2003 had 240 horsepower, the 2006 has 244 horsepower (actually, the increase is closer to 10 horsepower, but new horsepower testing regulations hit at the same time as the horsepower bump - on the old scale, your new Accord would have 250 horsepower, Honda has said).

    Notice too, that with that increase in 10 horsepower, the EPA numbers on your window sticker dropped by one MPG each, from 21/30 to 20/29.

    All of these factors (mainly the winter gas and unbroken-in engine) are likely to blame for your reduced mileage.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Why did you trade the 03 for an 06? I get over 30mpg on the highway in my 03 V6. Hope you didn't trade the 03 just to get the new look 06 tail lights. You may want to jack the car up, turn each wheel by hand, and see if the emergency brakes may be dragging you down. Some people have complained that their rear pads are wearing prematurely, and I think dragging emergency brakes are the cause.
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