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Mazda Millenia

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Comments

  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I'll go ahead and order it then. I just wasn't sure if I would get everything I needed by ordering the net.

    We use the net in our Olds constantly to keep groceries and other purchases from sliding all over the trunk and dumping the contents.

    Frank
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    The Town Hall is about to take on a new look in an effort to make content more easily searchable and accessible.

    Have you seen the Letter from the Town Hall Manager on the Town Hall Welcome page? If not, you might want to follow that link to have a look.

    And hang on to your seats. Change is never easy - for any of us - but resolving the Search problems we've had will be worth the pain.

    Pat
    Sedans Host
  • johnxyzjohnxyz Member Posts: 94
    Does Mazda or an aftermarket supplier have a rear anti-sway bar that could be installed on the P to attain some of the handling benefits of the S?
    If I could add the sway bar and 17" wheels to a new P and avoid the $1,500 - $2,000 60k service required for the S (due to the add'l engine complexity of the Miller s/c)I may not lose too much (handling)performance while saving some dollars. Is the S so much faster that its worth the add'l purchase and maintenance costs? Thanks for your feedback.
  • steevo2steevo2 Member Posts: 33
    Sometimes the auto tilt of the steering wheel does not engage. When it does, it has become very slow and labored. Local Mazda service tech says, 'probably a motor, they're expensive'. Anyone had this problem? Did you have to replace the motor?
  • nvedraninvedrani Member Posts: 58
    yes it worth the extra...yes it is that much faster and better....the P is a slug....and that $1500-$2000 is overstated...it should run around $700-$1000 (the P will also need some servicing but AT 60k miles) from "Actual" experience I have heard....also, it's been being rumored at almost Millenia websites that the timing belt change deal doesn'tneed to be done until like 100k miles unlike the P which will need it at 60k miles? Try finding other chat boards for the Millenia...very few use this one anymore....there is much more feedback in:

    www.mazdamillenia.org then click on "forums"

    hope this helps
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    It can be expensive....

    up until recently the whole assembly had to be replaced to the tune of apx $1200....but rumor has it that you can now just buy the motor which is around $300.

    Rich
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Quote:timing belt change deal doesn'tneed to be done until like 100k miles unlike the P which will need it at 60k"

    Completely backwards.

    P at 105000

    S at 60000

    Check the manual. I have. Also check Gates Belts site. I have.

    I was the first signed up at http://www.mazdamillenia.org/forums/ and made the first thread other than the admin.

    It is populated mostly by customizers, stereo fanatics and hot rodders. I read it everyday, but there is seldom anything of interest to owners interested in general maintenance and shopping information. It is a nice looking site though.
  • phild_masonphild_mason Member Posts: 99
    Has anyone replaced their cabin air filter? How hard is it? Do you have to pull the dash apart?
  • billyperksbillyperks Member Posts: 449
    Why do people keep saying that the Millenia P is a slug? I had the car for three years (the 1999 model), and I never got left behind on the highways in the TRI STATE AREA.The car is very good for everyday driving, so please stop giving people the wrong impression of the car.
    I also test drove the "s" when I got the "p" and there is not that much of a difference.I think their 0-60 mph is about 1 second in difference.Now, you tell me if that is worth $3000 more out of your pocket,you got to be kidding me if you say yes.For the buyer who wants the MILLENIA I would advise you to opt for the "P" if you are looking for relatively decent speed and it will cost you much less in terms of maintaining in the long run."CARS DONT STAY NEW FOREVER THERE IS SOMETHING CALLED WEAR AND TEAR AND THATS GOING TO EAT IN YOUR BANK BOOK.
    NO OFFENSE TO ALL YOU "S" OWNERS.:)
  • nvedraninvedrani Member Posts: 58
    How can a 4000lb car with 170HP NOT be a slug unless you've been driving dump trucks your entire life????? Here are a few quotes that I used for reference from other sights (fwatson WRONG!):
    "Well-I have a '98 Millenia S and I have had no problems out of this vehicle. Extremely reliable-also the S timing belt does not need to be changed at 60,000 like the non-S millenia's. The S Timing belt goes until 100K miles. This is per Maz-Max in Houston. The dealer will tell you 60,000 however What are these "supposed" problems with the S?"

    "Well, I can say I have never heard of any issues with the S, in fact I was going to consider trading it in on a new Volvo when the Service manager told me to keep the Mazda.. He said safety and reliability is great in the S other than the 60k service (which is debatable).
    Plus the S is uniqe and are not a dime a dozen.. I have had my S for 20k or so and run the hell out of the car.. My gas milage sucks, because I do not keep my foot off the floor.."

    "Definitly go witht the S type if you love to drive. I just got a '99 S, comes with traction control standard, and the driving difference is night & day b/t the 2.3 and 2.5. I dont know what this guy is saying about high maitanance, ive talked with ppl at the dealership that say they love the car, and one guy just bought his 2nd one! As far as i know through research and reviews, both engines are great, but the 2.3 definitly gives a lot more pep."

    Now, Frank just b/c your MUCH oldre than most people on those boards definitely doesn't give you the right to bash it. And please don't reply and tell me I'm wrong again when I'm simply quoting others peoples "proven" references. Thank you in advance for refraining from your typical rudeness.
  • speedracer3speedracer3 Member Posts: 650
    My Millenia P doesn't become alive until the car is up to speed. This car is no dragster, takeoffs are real sluggish.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Number one: Proving you wrong is not being rude. It is rude to come on a forum and tell lies or misinformation that is a putdown to the vehicle being discussed. It is also known as trolling.

    Quote:""Well-I have a '98 Millenia S and I have had no problems out of this vehicle. Extremely reliable-also the S timing belt does not need to be changed at 60,000 like the non-S millenia's. The S Timing belt goes until 100K miles. This is per Maz-Max in Houston. The dealer will tell you 60,000 however What are these "supposed" problems with the S?"

    ------------------------------------

    That is just simply WRONG. It is old information that was never correct, and still isn't.

    ------------------------------------

    The following is a DIRECT QUOTE from the 2001 Millenia Owners Manual page 8-4, which is schedule 1. Schedule 2 on page 8-6 reads identically. If you try to say Mazda is wrong, you are really being ridiculous.

    Engine timing belt--2.5 liter DOHC:
    Inspect at 96000km (60000 miles)
    Replace every 168,000km (105,000 miles)

    -------------------------------------------

    Engine timing belt--Miller Cycle Engine V6 DOHC:
    Replace every 96,000km (60,000 miles)

    -------------------------------------------
    -------------------------------------------

    The following is from the Gates Rubber Company:

    Timing Belt Replacement Guide from Gates

    Avoid costly engine damage. Change your timing belt at the recommended interval.

    --------------------------------------------
    Millenia

    1995-96 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 60,000 Federal
    105,000 California

    1997-00 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 105,000 California

    1997-00 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 60,000 Federal

    1995-96 2.5L V6 T214 60,000 Federal
    105,000 California

    1997-00 2.5L V6 T214 105,000 California

    1997-00 2.5L V6 T214 60,000 Federal

    2001 2.5L V6 T214 105,000

    The Gates chart has some editing problems, but you can get the idea from it.

    The Millenia Owners Manual is clear and direct, and proves the P gets only an inspection at 60000mi, and a belt change at 105000 miles. While the S REQUIRES a belt CHANGE every 60000 miles.

    Your mistake is quoting other peoples information that is WRONG instead of researching the information yourself, and getting it correct.

    Jumping on me or anyone else, and calling us names DOES NOT MAKE YOU RIGHT!

    One more correction. The P as delivered weighs 3358 pounds according to Mazda, who has a pretty good inside track on that information also. You missed that by 642 pounds. The S weighs 3488 pounds. The extra 130 pounds the S weighs over the P eats up a good bit of the horsepower advantage.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    Frank,

    so as you write "the S REQUIRES a belt CHANGE every 60000 miles" you should mention "but not in California, where the same belt in the same engine needs to be changed after 105,000 miles"

    1997-00 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 105,000 California
    1997-00 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 60,000 Federal
    And how is it avoiding costly engine damage? It's non-interference engine, the worst that can happen is that you'll be towed.

    Tomek

    P.S. Take it easy, you'll live longer!
  • billyperksbillyperks Member Posts: 449
    I dont care what you say but to spend $3000.00 dollar more for 40 more horses (170-210) and a 1" difference in wheeel sizes 16'' to 17''and a one second difference from 0-60 mph "HUH".
    Put that $3000.00 in t-bills and a few years down the road you will be able to afford a real muscle car.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    If I took it any easier, I'd BE dead. My capitalization is for emphasis, not shouting. I really am extremely at ease. Thanks for the concern though.

    Quote:"so as you write "the S REQUIRES a belt CHANGE every 60000 miles" you should mention "but not in California, where the same belt in the same engine needs to be changed after 105,000 miles"

    I don't know, except from Gates, about the pre-2001 S, and they don't include the 2001 S. But unless California owners get a different manual, and/or California forces the 105000 change, the change is called for at 60000 miles. That is still true all but in California, regardless.

    My main point though, is that the P does not require a belt change at 60000 miles Federal or California starting with the 2001 models, but the 2001 S requires a belt change at 60000 miles at least everywhere but California.

    Oh, the thing about protecting your engine (Avoid costly engine damage. Change your timing belt at the recommended interval.) is Gate's advertising blarb from their site, not my wording.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Quote:"fwatson - CAN YOU SAY "NON-INTERFERENCE"????"

    What is the point? We are talking about what is REQUIRED maintenance, not whether we want to gamble. I am very aware that both engines are non interference, so why not just let them go forever with no timing belt change?

    As tomekk points out, the worse that will happen is you will need towed in.
  • billyperksbillyperks Member Posts: 449
    Take it easy kid- If you had enough pennies saved you would be driving a beamer or benz, so dont go playing big shot on this board.Just keep on taking advantage of the DISCOUNTS Mazda has offer and remember we are all family.
  • rbrubakerrbrubaker Member Posts: 54
    I own a 1999 "S", and rented a new "P" over the Xmas holiday for a week. The "P" is a desent performer for normal everyday driving. I climbs, cruises, and passes well. The "S" is no steller performer, but it kicks but verses the "P" and well worth the extra money. Also, you get traction control with the "S" (It wasn't on the rental).

    And lets stay away from the age cracks, please. I'm 42, and you guys are making me feel old.

    Bob
  • nvedraninvedrani Member Posts: 58
    well lemme see here, if I wanted a Beamer or Benz I could have gotten one...but I live in downtown Boston, and didn't feel the need to wreck a $50k car nor did I want to drive something that may insult my parents (conservative car types) as I'm only 24. I do very well in my profession and actually just put a "downpayment reserve" at a dealership on my next vehicle - the RX-8. I'm not playing "big shot" by any means, but believe me when I say I can afford what I want. When I was 22 and just graduated from college I wanted the 2000 Millenium Edition. Now my tastes are changing and I going for sport. Also, it seems a few "P" drivers on here agree with the Sluggish characteristics of it. Happy driving.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Folks, come ON.

    There is no need for all these personal attacks. It is very possible to debate facts and opinions without throwing mud at each other. Those of you have been attacking need to rethink how you word your messages.

    And profanity is not tolerated here.

    Pat
    Sedans Host
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Having just removed another message, let me ask that you not "explain" your behavior. Let's move on and talk about the subject.

    If any further explaining or arguing needs to be done, it needs to done off-line.

    Pat
    Sedans Host
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    It is really a very simple matter. If you want or need the extra HP of the S. And are willing to pay for it, both initially and in scheduled maintenance as well as more expensive fuel. By all means buy the S, if you have narrowed your choice down to a Millenia.

    If you do not need the performance advantage of the 2.3L Miller Cycle Supercharged engine, save a bundle now and later by buying a P. The other additional standard equipment on the S is of no value to anyone using the car for general transportation. In addition the larger wheels, thus skinnier rubber, make for a harsher ride

    If you are that performance minded though, there are other cars just as reliable as the MMS for the same price (MSRP) that will run rings around it. If an additional 40 HP is worth $3000, then it should be no problem to pay perhaps another $2000 and have 255 HP. :)

    Simple.

    Frank

    Edit:

    Quote:"#1759 of 1774 Cabin air filter by phild_mason Jun 12, 2002 (06:14 am)
    Has anyone replaced their cabin air filter? How hard is it? Do you have to pull the dash apart?"

    I am not even sure if the MM has a cabin filter. I have been wondering about this too, so I will do some checking and see what I can find out. Also, someone else here might have an answer for us.
  • zfun4ne1zfun4ne1 Member Posts: 5
    I think I can speak as an authority on this. I had a '99 Base (P) for 2 1/2 years and now have a 2001 S for the last 6+ months.

    The S is the superior car (could you really say if the S and the P were the same price that you would get the P?). The S has 40 more HP and comes standard with traction control, bigger wheels and a better sound system.

    However, the S costs more. So it really comes down to what is the price point that the S is worth the money over the P. To me, it's something in the $2000 - $2500 range but since money and budgets are a personal matter it's really up to the individual.

    This argument is something like who is the better home run hitter - Barry Bonds or Sammy Sosa?

    You can also check my post #1679 on May 11.
  • silvercrownsilvercrown Member Posts: 237
    I have been following this board for the past couple of months, every since I discovered that the Millenia may be within striking distance pricewise, due to heavy discounting by Mazda. I have read these last few posts with some surprise at the intensity of some of the comments and finally felt like adding some input.

    I think that fwatson's post #1774 sums it up best. How much HP is really enough? Especially these days, as even "family" cars are getting close to the 300 mark. Not too long ago, 170hp would have been plenty. It seems the more we have, the more we want and our expectations grow very quickly.

    I currently drive a 2000 Toyota Camry LE V6. It's nice car and the V6 is very smooth and powerful in my book. 194 hp is plenty for me, I don't even think I get to really use the full power potential for most of my "normal" driving. If I really tried to, I'd probably get a speeding ticket. I did choose the V6 over the 4 cyl because I did want the additional power and it was worth it to me for the price at that time. I also chose it because my previous car was a V6 with 200 HP, so I wanted to stick with the same amount of power to which I was accustomed. I now wonder if I would have even noticed the difference between the Camry 4 and 6 and if I could have saved some $$$$ and still have been content with my car's performance. I guess I'll never truly know about that ...

    I admit that I was a bit surprised that the Millenia P was a V6 and only had 170hp, but it's a smaller engine than the one in my Camry, which is a 3.0, so it sort of makes sense. This may make the Millenia more fuel efficient, but I don't know about that. I think I get pretty decent gas mileage for a V6 car in my Camry. Would I really notice 20 fewer "horses" in my normal driving? Maybe not so much that I feel like I'm in a horse and buggy instead of a modern automobile. Would 40 extra HP be worth the price differential? For me, probably not. For my basic needs and expectations (not to mention budget), I'd probably be satisfied with the base Millenia at this time. But that's just my opinion, others may value the extra power that much more. And that's okay.

    What always gets me when I read these boards and other editorial and consumer reviews is how often cars are criticized so harshly. Family cars are criticized for not being sporty. Reliable family cars are knocked for being "boring". There are so many labels and unfair expectations when it comes to evaluating vehicles.

    Different types of cars have different purposes. They are what they are. It's unwise to expect a family car to drive, look and behave like a Corvette or a Porsche. If you want that level of sportiness, then you should look to that type of vehicle and not to the mainstream family class of vehicles. Sometimes I think people look at a basically good vehicle and find reasons to downrate it. That's sad but I guess we can just take various opinions for what they're worth and form our own. It's great that we have the freedom to voice them.

    I have admired the Millenia for a long time. I think it is a great combination of a luxury and sport. It has beautiful sharp styling that is elegant with a bit of a sporty edge. It's a nice combination and a great looking car. And it seems to be very reliable. That rates it pretty high in my book. One vehicle cannot be all things to all people, but the Millenia has most of the attributes I would want in my next car.

    I was really disappointed to learn that this is the last year for the MM. The upcoming Mazda 6 sounds very promising, but it seems like a replacement just for the 626 and not for the Millenia as well. I understand the philosophy behind the new name, but I prefer actual names for cars instead of numbers and letters. Millenia is a great name for a car, it's a shame to lose it. I'm still curious to see the new 6 when it arrives, though.

    I received a test drive offer via email from Mazda. I plan to visit the dealership within the next week so I can see for myself how the Millenia operates. I may compare the S and the P, or I may just drive the P. I may even take the Protege for a spin while I'm there. It may be a bit too small for my tastes (I'm used to a midsize car and I like the smooth ride quality of my Camry), but I think it's a real sharp looking small car. As small cars go, it's quite striking and it has some great features.

    I have no idea when I may trade for a new car, it depends on quite a few factors. I'm in no hurry. Either way, the Millenia is still on my radar screen and I think it is a very impressive car, in both the P and the S versions.

    Sorry to go off on a rant here. LOL

    Just my 2 cents. :-)
  • milleniaman1milleniaman1 Member Posts: 110
    I still say the S is worth the extra money....I traded my 99 P for an 01 S in October. I never felt like the P had enough power. I have really enjoyed having the extra 40 horses. I have also enjoyed the Bose, which I didn't have before.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    You make a very evenhanded contribution. Thanks for being open minded.

    I have nothing major to add. I am just answering the matter you posed about fuel milage. The smaller V6 does not get appreciably different milage than the 3.0 in the Camry. My averages are 20 city, 27-28 highway with an overall average of just over 22. Very typical milage for a 3300 to 3400 pound car. That is almost exactly the range shown on the window sticker. The P and S get almost identical mileage if driven the same.

    Edit: I just read the above post after making mine. Regarding the Bose. It is a fine sound system. However, the standard sound system in my 2001 P is also excellent. I was offered the Bose at a huge discount, and turned it down.
  • nvedraninvedrani Member Posts: 58
    I think that milleniaman or other previous OWNERS of BOTH vehicles is 'really" one of the only people who can comment on the P vs S accurately. How can someone say this is better, or that is better, when they haven't thoroughly driven each for an extended period. Granted I have driven both (my mother was looking at the 2002 P Fully Loaded) and it was a great car (for her)...It just simply didn't pull onto or accelerate like my 2000 S does. That said, milleniaman has driven both vehicles FOR AN EXTENDED period, not just a 1/2 hour test drive.
    Overall though, I agree with silvercrown, it is a personnal opinion to be left up to the individual buying the car, BUT anyone interested should at least drive BOTH to see for themselves.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    When my dad was looking for a car I suggested he try the Millenia. He knew it came in both forms and said he wanted nothing to do with a supercharged car as it just meant more could go wrong. Money has never been an issue, but he's such a practical person that he only got rid of his diesel Jetta after mom wrecked it with 275k miles.

    Anyway, I took him for drive in a P and he said, this is great, I'll take it. I suggested that he drive the S first so he did. After about 2 blocks, he said forget the P, this is the one he wants. I tried to remind him of his comment about things going wrong but he was already hooked by the smooth power.

    So at 65, dad loves his S and mom has another Jetta.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    Silvercrown,

    I agree with you 100%.

    I used to have 172HP Passat GLX - I test drove Millenia P and thought that's great. That'll do! But then, just out of curiosity, I drove the S... and got hooked on the power rush and sc whine. Because it was only 2K more at the time I decided to go for the S - I paid $26K even, it stickered at 32.5 - I'm sure you can get better deal now.

    Another factor was that I thought S handled better and stayed completely flat in curves. Now I know (thanks to this forum) that there is a reason for it - it has rear antiroll bar.

    So, that's my $0.02 . . . and to each his own! Let's be tolerant of different opinions, I'm sure Frank W wouldn't have paid 2K more for an S, and I respect that.

    Tomek
  • joe2617joe2617 Member Posts: 88
    Nobody has mentioned the fact that gas mileage is almost exactly the same in both models. That was Mazda's original marketing strategy 40 more hp with low gas mileage.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    Right on the money, Joe - last weekend I drove 440 miles in my S (80% highway @ ~70mph) that used 15.5 gallons -> works out to 28.4 mpg. That with 3 people in the car and quite a few New Hampshire hills on the way.
    In city traffic I get 21-22 consistently (was 20-21 in winter).
    Tomek
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Quote:"Nobody has mentioned the fact that gas mileage is almost exactly the same in both models."

    Quote post 1778 fwatson1:"The P and S get almost identical mileage if driven the same."
  • vp123vp123 Member Posts: 4
    I own a 2000 "S". I am generally happy with my car, but I have been experiencing problems with the original dunlop 215/50/17 tires. I have approx. 13,000 miles of driving on these tires (I run snow tires mounted on steel wheels from Nov. to Apr.). Last summer, I noticed a bubble on the sidewall of one of my tires. I went to a dunlop tire dealer, and he told me it was an "impact break" in the sidewall, and the tire would have to be replaced. I have never hit a curb, but it may have been from a pothole. The tire was not covered under a road hazard warranty, so I had to pay out of my pocket. To my dismay, the same thing happened to another tire this week. One of my buddies drives the identical car as mine, and he has also had this problem with 3 of his tires. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem? I have also noticed that there is not a lot of tread left, so I have decided to replace all 4 tires. I will go to an "H" rated tire, instead of "V", and hopefully that will extend the life of the tire.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Obviously a tire problem has to be settled with the tire manufacturer. I once had General tires on a Dodge van. Three out of four threw their tread on the highway. My only out was to replace the tires at my expense, then never again buy a General tire. I did just that.

    I have a long way to go on my Michelin XM4V's (less than 6000 miles so far), but have also thought of going to an H tire when they are due for replacement. There really is no reason for a V rating on this type car as far as I can see, and the H would most likely be smoother and quieter than the V. I would do some research on tires before buying though. It's something you are stuck with for a couple of years anyway. That can be a long time with lousy tires.
  • juliziojulizio Member Posts: 18
    I also have a 2000 MM ME. The original tires, mainly the front, wore out after 20,000 miles. I went for my normal rotation and the guy told me he couldn't do it because they were worn so bad. He showed me and sure enough, the belt was actually coming thru the side wall. When I took it to a tire place to have new tires put on, they told me it was because of low air pressure. Not sure if I really beleive them, never saw what the pressure was.

    I went ahead and changed all four tires then. I went up a size to 235/45/17. They fit on the stock rims without a problem and the are the exact same circumference as the original Dunlops, 820 revs per mile. I got the Kumho's from Just Tires. Nice looking tire with an aggressive tread pattern. The installed price including road hazard, was $496.00. They're W rated. I'm not sure if an installer will install H rated tires on a car that requires Z rated.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Quote:"They're W rated. I'm not sure if an installer will install H rated tires on a car that requires Z rated."

    No car "requires" Z rated tires. Any properly sized tire can be installed on your car at your request. If they are the right size, it is your choice as to what to install on your own car.
  • jmadamsjmadams Member Posts: 3
    I also have a 2000 S model but haven't had any problems with the tires. I have always made sure they contain the proper air pressure. At 20K miles I had them rotated. Now at 40K, they're in great shape and will rotate them again at 50K. I estimate they'll last until about 60K. - John
  • nvedraninvedrani Member Posts: 58
    21,000 miles on my 2000 S ME and no wear at all....car is for sale though, silver Millenium Edition - $19,500 - all options - garaged. Just switched my pre-order from the RX-8 to the G35 Sports Coupe due out in November - absolutely stunning with 282HP and finally a 6 speed manual. Good luck with everyone's Millenias, I know I'll miss mine!!
  • greg114greg114 Member Posts: 5
    Loose gas cap caused the check engine light to come on this morning in my '99 Millenia. The light won't go out after properly tightening the cap. I'm I stuck to going to the dealer and paying to have it scanned, and reset?

    Thanks, Greg
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I think from what I have read that you should wait a few days and see if it resets after a few start cycles. If someone else has better information on this, hopefully they will post it. All I am saying is don't jump the gun because it isn't hurting anything, and may resolve itself.
  • lyons4lyons4 Member Posts: 21
    Greg,
    I had a 1995 L MM and when washed the engine bck in February the engine light came on.I left the car running for a good while to dry it out,but the light still was on.I'd turn off the engine & turn it bck on and the light was still on.
    What I did was unplug my battery cable & waited
    for a few minutes & plugged it bck up.The light was out & never came bck on again.I'm not sure what happened here.It might have reset something when I did that.
    Someone else can on the board can answer this.
    That's my experience.I hope it helps.
  • phillykidphillykid Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    I'm considering buying a '97 Millenia S with 56,000 miles from a private seller. The research I've done indicates this is a pretty solid investment but I still have some hesitations. Can anyone comment about this car's reliability, especially in light of the fact that it will be discontinued? I'm also worried about high maintenance costs down the road, especially with the Miller Cycle engine, which seems to be not as common as other engine-types.

    I appreciate the advice!!

    Mugz
  • steevo2steevo2 Member Posts: 33
    To Mugz, I'd just like to offer some comments.

    I purchased my '97 Millenia S off-lease with 39,000 miles on it. It now has about 64k miles and I still love it. Problems I've had: interior lighting got intermittent, turned out to be a sticky door switch ... took it out and cleaned it and that fixed that. Engine runs great ... lots of acceleration power at highway speeds. You'll have to get used to the auto-shift points when the engine is cold. The engine will tach to 3500+ before shifting out of second which drives me nuts. The solution, just press the Hold button on the shifter when you want it to shift, when it does, release the Hold button. After aboutd 4 - 5 minutes, it will shift normally.

    I love the Bose stereo. I'm in the audio business and this one sounds great ... not all hyped up in the low end like most these days.

    Current problem: Lazy tilt-away steering wheel. The motor in it seems to be very sluggish and sometimes doesn't work at all.

    Overall, it has been a great car and I plan to keep it for several more years. Good luck.

    Steve
  • matrix80matrix80 Member Posts: 1
    Ok well i just bought a 1996 MM and it doesnt have a manual. The problem is i dont know how to shut the AC off :) Thats kind of sad but i would like to drive with the windows down and stuff and i dont need the AC on all the time. I have the L model. If someone can help me i would be very appreciative.

    Also should i put premium gas in it or does it really matter? What kind of Oil is best for it? Thanks in advance
  • mudpuddlemudpuddle Member Posts: 26
    After many loyal years with General Motors, I bought a new 2002 Mazda Millenia P Special Edition today. My GM cars have always been good running, dependable vehicles (Pontiac, Chevy, GMC truck), but the deal I got on this Millenia was just too good to be true. I passed on the super charged Miller 2.3 Special Edition. The 2.5 6 cyl seemed to have enough power for my needs. I tested both, but "settled" for the 2.5 with 170 hp. I could feel a difference with the 2.3 SC engine, but not enough of difference to make me spend the extra 2 grand. The sticker on my purchase was $31520 and I paid $23500 + $149 documentaion fee + tax + title fee. Basically, $8020 off sticker !!! I tried to work the dealer (in Tennessee) a little lower, but this seemed to be the best he could do. I know that this is the last year for the Millenia, so now is the time to make a deal if you're in the market for one. I opted for the special edition package because I liked the 17" titanium finish wheels and ivory leather interior. Black wasn't my first choice in exterior colors, but since the special edition models only come in black, that's what I got. In addition to the standard features that come with the special edition, I also got the moonroof deflector, auto dimming mirror with compass, cargo net, in dash 6 disc cd changer, 4 seasons package, and Bose sound system with 9 speakers. I'm not buying into the extended warranties. I'm hoping that Mazda reliability will at least be as good as the GMs I've dealt with.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I've had my '01 P through a lot of mudpuddles, and a few driving rains in it's first 6300 miles. Totally water tight, and rock steady in those conditions.

    The SE is beautiful, but I don't envy keeping that shiny black paint looking good.

    A couple of notes to help you get off to a good start. You have already stated your acceptance of the 170 HP, and I too find it plenty. The other thing is that the transmission shifts much differently than those GM cars. GM has the smoothness down pat, but expect some shifting in the Millenia when you are not expecting it. At least until you become accustomed to it. This is completely normal from my experience, and from many posts and tests I have read. It is apparently harmless, as Millenia does enjoy a huge reliability advantage over those GM's you have had. And if you park the MM next to a GM and compare fit, finish and overall quality, it is no contest in favor of the MM.

    My other car is a '95 Olds 88. It has been always garaged, and had excellent care. But has had MANY problems. Comparing it's assembly to my MM startles me at times.

    Enjoy your new SE. You got a great car, at an excellent price (compared to CamCords etc)and the MM is in a class above those.
  • mudpuddlemudpuddle Member Posts: 26
    I looked at everything before I bought the Millenia...Accord EX, XG350 (Hyundai), Impala, Grand Prix GTP/GT, Altima 3.5SE, Diamante, etc. I didn't even look at the Camry. Toyota dealers in my area are very hard to deal with. There's an attitude associated with selling Toyotas, and I've never been comfortable dealing with them. The Accord has the HP, but the Millenia has standard equipment not even available as options on the Accord. The XG350 was considered, but the nearest dealer is 30 miles away. I'm not sure Hyundai has achieved long term quality levels yet either. The Altima still has the cheap looking interior .... especially the interior door panels ....terrible. Nissan puts emphasis on HP and very little on comfort. Anyway, I read through the Millenia manual last night and I was surprised to see that premium gas is "preferred" in even the 2.5. It mentioned that regular is Ok, but to obtain max power, use premium. This is something I'll be experimenting with. I plan on changing my own oil in the Millenia after I get the first complimentary change from the dealer. I found the oil filter last night when I slid under the car. It looks like it will be a fairly easy task. I'll probably use Mobil 1 10w30 in summer and 5w30 in winter. I was glad to see that 5w20, which is used in other models , isn't the preferred weight for the Millenia. I noticed that the Millenia 2.5 6 cyl has 2 belts, not one serpentine belt, for the alt, ps, water pump, etc. The only thing that puzzles me about the Mazda 2.5 6 cyl is the lack of a timing chain. Does anyone know why they use a belt(which should be changed at 60K miles)? This is the first 6 cyl that I've owned that has a timing belt. I know that a lot of 4 cyls have the belts. That's my only complaint so far.
  • phild_masonphild_mason Member Posts: 99
    Many foreign cars use timing belts even on V6's. I have had Accords, Legends and currently have an Acura RL with V6's and timing belts. Over the years Honda has extended the change duration from 60k to 90k to 105k. I think the Millenia P is also up in that category. The S requires it at 60k.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    phild_mason is correct in saying the timing belt on the P does not require replacement until 105000 miles. That is in the maintenance section of your owners manual, and in the Gates belt replacement guide on their web site. The reason for a belt instead of chain is it is quiet. No mechanical noise from it.

    I have run 87 octane in my P since new, except for one tank of 89 and one of 93 (original dealer fill). I see absolutely no difference in either performance or fuel milage. I think you will get the same results.

    I bought an adjustable oil filter removing tool from Discount Auto Parts that has a 3/8 inch square hole for a ratchet. That along with an 8 inch extension makes filter removal downright easy. It also fits the slightly larger filter on my Oldsmobile. Sorry, I threw the package away, and don't see a name on the tool. It is black, has a lightweight spring across the inside, and on the back says "Made in USA--Caution Wear Gloves". I also installed a Fram SureDrain valve in place of the oil drain plug. You will be amazed at how easy these two tools make an oil change. I use a high quality floor jack under the left front wishbone to raise the car enough to comfortably reach the filter and drain valve.

    My experience with the Toyota dealers was that they are arrogant. They simply couldn't believe I had the nerve to try to pay less than MSRP for their product. Toyota also has a nasty habit of making you buy $3000 worth of unwanted add-on's to get a 30 dollar option you want. No thanks.
  • truthmatterstruthmatters Member Posts: 1
    I know I read posts among these 1800 messages, but because there is no "Search" feature I have to bring this up again:

    I purchased an '02 P model yesterday (color: two-toned pearl white/sand) and I love it! However, there is a problem with glare of the rear "dash" (for lack of a better word to call it) in the rear window, which is kind of aggravating. Does anyone recall the solution to the problem from the previous posts? Or, is there a solution? Any suggestions?
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