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The only big concern I have about the millenia over the TL Type S is depreciation and resale value. Although I can write off part of the depreciation (business), I do not want to lose my shirt on this car if I decide to sell or rade-in in three years. However, I do not want to have a lease payment on an Acura of $400-500 and have the headaches of leasing (wear and tear, mileage, etc.) The TL may cost more but have more of a return.
Guess I'll have to run the numbers again.
Dunlop tire wear- my experience with the 215/50-17 Dunlop is that they loose air and need to be "topped off" regularly. Low air = excessive outside tread wear, probability of blow out at high temperatures and high speeds, or hitting a bump and having the rim puncture the side wall when it flexes. I also used these tires on a 1986 300ZX and had the same experience. If you get 30K out of them you are doing very well.
Thanks for your help, but I did try that, no luck. The problem is that it is both the gas lid and trunk that won't open.
Thanks.
thanks
Resale value: supposedly the resale value and these will be nothing because of thir extinction.
Parts: supposedly mazda is going to pull the plug on replacement parts for the miller cycle engine and possibly the 2.5 V6(and not telling anyone about it
I don't know whether or not to trust what this guy said. He was very pushy and found faults with every single competing vehicle (he was trying to sell me a camry even though I told him I did not like the camry) AUGH that was two hours down the drain. I left the dealer disgusted. The salesman was audacious enough to say that if I didn't buy the car he was going to bing me bclients for my product (for my business). They even pulled the trick of "appraising" my trade. i.e. they kept the keys while pressuring me for a sale. Never going back there again. Sorry for ranbling, needed to vent.
Believe it or not, there are a fair number of Millenias in the field and Mazda will make a significant money selling parts for them for years to come. Besides, it's a law that parts need to be available for at least five years after production.
As far as resale value, it's not the best.
BTW, just did a 2300 mile road trip. Even in really hot weather (Death Valley and Las Vegas) the air conditioning kept myself and passenger very comfortable.
Someone mentioned that they were surprised that the 2.3L was a noninterference engine since it's a high revving engine. I never considered the 2.3L engine a high revving engine. Is it?
John
Now to the questions.
Consumer reports in the April '02 issue calls the Millenia "outstanding" for reliability, which is borne out by all previous April CR editions. Carpoint also shows the frequency of repair for both models of Millenia to be excellent.
Resale value myth. Check this out for yourself by going to KBB.com. Any resale difference between Millenia and other competing cars is minor, and more than offset by the extremely low prices Millenia can be bought for (ie, it is a moot point), in comparison to those same competing cars.
As for parts, the previous post pointed out the 5 year law. Add to that the fact that these engines have been used for many years in the Ford Probe, Mazda 626, Mazda MX6 and others, and there is a thriving aftermarket for parts and performance parts for those engines.
Now for a couple of personal observations. Never trust negative sales pitches. They are for one, and ONLY ONE purpose. To sell you THEIR car.
And in answer to:
"Also would you recommend the car to your closest friends? are there any faults i shoul be aware of?".
I am sure as an extremely complicated mechanical device the MM, as all cars, has a failing of some kind. To some it is that they don't have the largest engine available in the auto industry. That is nonsense to me, and the P, which I have is more than powerful enough to keep up with any and all normal traffic, as well as a pleasure to drive. And I would heartily recommend either MM to anyone who is looking for a very beautiful, reliable and immaculately assembled and finished car.
Unless you are one of the hot rodding young men who frequent this board, you will find the Millenia a great choice. And for me, at the price, the only choice in a new car.
One more point. Mazda is not going out of business, it is simply discontinuing a model, as all manufacturers do constantly. Check the record of ALL car companies and you will find this is as common as bugs on your windshield in the spring. It does not mean they are burying all referrence to the discontinued car, and abandoning support for it.
That was a problem with "captive imports", especially by GM and Chrysler for years, but has no bearing whatsoever on the discontinuance of the Millenia, anymore than Chevelle, Fairlane, Dart, Charger, Impala, Comet, Falcon or dozens of other cars that were eliminated by their builders.
As far as the loaded '02 S goes, what options does it have on it? I bought my '02 S with the 17" chrome alloy wheels, 4-seasons package, and 6 disc cd for $25,000. As for parts I have an '85 626, pre FI, that I can still get parts for. Now for the sales manager, when was the last time you could believe what any sales manager told you when it came down to them selling you a car? By what you are saying about this dealer I do not see were you can put too much trust in anything they tell you. I would not walk from that dealer I would run.
Has anyone had a similar experience and just go the dealer for programming? I'm assuming they wouldn't charge for a simple procedure - but that's wishful thinking. Thanks!
-Vick
http://www.mazdausa.com/millenia/default.asp?vehicle=millenia&zip=33614&did=23799&state=MA
But definitely have your brother drive that car. Millenia seating is very low, and the Moonroof cuts into headroom. I am 5'10" and love my driving position with one reservation. I have mild arthritis in my knees, and when driving on cruise control, there is not a really good place to rest the right knee. The left leg is fine. This is all due to the low seating, with little rise from the floor to the seating surface.
That said, the supercharged engine has a lot of required maintenance as opposed to the P, including a much earlier timing belt change. You only have 6k miles before that is due. If it has not been done yet you will be in for a little bit of a shock at the price of the 60000 mile required service for that car. If you can get the seller to pay for the 60000 mile service, I think the price is good for the car in very good condition.
Good luck.
Does anyone know a source either in Southern Cal or online that sell the hubcups (chrome)?
Thanks in advance.
If so, the center caps are still available as P/N TA04-37-190. That cap measures 7 3/4". The non-S is a bit smaller. I'm not sure what your dealer told you but there are plenty out there. If you have trouble finding them, e-mail me at maltbarley@yahoo.com.
BTW, if you can't tell, I'm very lead-footed We have a Mazda B3000, which is a little sluggish, so we call the truck 'zoom' and the millenia 'zoom-zoom'
To get 17-18 mpg you must be redlining it all the time... I know, this supercharger song is additcive.
Tomek
Two weeks ago, my sister in law drove the car and mistakenly left the lights on (I was not too upset after all as it was my wives and her grandmothers funeral!) Two hours later, the vehicle would not start. After a jump, they were on their way. While my sister in law had the car, she also put gas in it.
Three days later, I start the car and the check engine light comes on. I call the local Mazda dealer and tell them the story. They get me in right away so I drop off the car and the dealer does the diagnostic test and it reads (I was told) low battery, and a misfire with the plugs/wires. He also asked me if I tightened the gas cap, in which I replied yes, (after reading these posts to find out that can trigger the ck engine light). The dealer replaces the spark plugs and wires, the battery, and puts some fuel injector cleaner in the tank for a mere $387.00 (yikes). They also reset the ck engine light.
Today (64 miles later) the check engine light came on again. I called the dealer and they told me to bring it in for the diagnostic test, which I have not yet done. They will charge me $65.00 unless it relates to something they did last week. The $65.00 charge thing kind of irritated me...
I would truly like to reslove this check engine light thing but I need some help. Can anyone tell me if they have experienced this before and what else may be the cause? Could it be the K@N filter? Also, would you pay the $65.00 again for the diagnostic test?
Thanks and regards!
So far it's been either a 305 (cylider misfire) or a 324/325 (knock sensor/knock sensor circuit). I've replaced the cap but that didn't help. Plug wires were replaced about 18 months ago because of a 306 code (misfire cylider 6). That worked for about a year. Anyone think that maybe this car just eats plug wires? I don't mind changing them again, but don't want to throw money away. Knock sensor is about $100 plus labor. Don't know if I can do that one myself or not.
I did visit my local Autozone when the light came on the first time. They brought the diagnostic tool out to the car and tried to hook it into the mechanism under the hood. It did not fit. He then said the car may have a mechanism under the steering wheel on the drivers side where he could do the test on. That did not work either! He told me I had to take it to our local Mazda dealer, and that is what I did...Is it possible the diagnostic tool is unique to certain vehicles or is it a universal unit?
Funny thing is, I had the oil changed in the car as it was due and I put a fresh tank of gas in it and on the way home today, the check engine light turned off!!! I shut off the car and started it up again and the light was still off.
Thanks,
~Miffed in Michigan
Mine has done this since new. I just discovered that there is a TSB out on this (at NHTSA web site), which involves replacing the transmission shifter cable with a re-design having an integrated vibration dampener.
The replacement procedure requires 4 hours of labor, with most of the time spent removing/re-installling the dash.
Has anybody had this TSB applied and if so how much of an improvement did it make? Did the dealer have any problems getting the dash back together (i.e., no resulting damage/scratches and no rattles).
I'm wondering if the benefit of having this done out-weighs the risk of damage to the dash. The work will be done under warranty.
I have a 2001, Millenia S that is just about finishing 1 year since I bought it. However, for the past several months, I have noticed a distinct rust formation on the caliper (near the brakes/tyres). Is the NE weather an issue? How do I remove the rust. The wheels look unsightly since the rusty caliper is clearly visible. Do others face this problem?
Please offer any advise that might help...
Jack up one corner, remove the wheel and support the car with a jack stand.
Lightly wire brush the surface rust off the casting, but don't brush the rotor. Blow the rust dust off, then using a solvent such as lacquer thinner, damp clean the casting to finish removing the dust and any oil products. Now cover anything you don't want painted and spray paint the caliper. Repeat on all four corners. There is no harm in painting them, but keep solvents and paint off any rubber parts and the rotor.
Yes, the road slush and salts etc are causing the harmless surface rust. But like you I wouldn't be able to look at it. I live in Florida, and my 2001 P is one year old this month. Not a speck of rust anywhere. It is garaged when not in use, and I do not live on the rust coasts. Enjoy the "new" calipers, it will be well worth the time and very minor expense. Less than $10.
Pros:
Fast (after superchargers kick in). Too bad they didn't up the engine to a 3.0L
Looks: Still think it is one of the best looking cars.
Cons: Only one cup holder, what's up with that? Did they correct this in the newer models?
Front wheel drive
Suspension has sagged somewhat(springs in struts have sprung). Happened after carring 4/5 adults around for awhile.
Windnoise is excesssive for a car of this caliber
Ready for a new car....thinking of the new G35 Infiniti. My wife is happy with her Millenia.
Several members of this forum have mentioned a sluggish or inoperable tilt away steering. How did you replace the relay? Was this easily done? Expensive?
I have currently turned off my steering tilt because I'm afraid it will get stuck in the top position.
More info on this relay replacement please!!!
Steve
Price $$$, expensive for a relay. I don't remember but I think it was approx. $85-100. It worked for a few weeks and then started acting up again for a few days but then it cleared up and has been fine for 6 months now.
PS: how do you turn it off other than removing a relay or fuse. I don't drive mine much anymore, my wife does. I didn't see any on/off switch when I worked on it.
Those looking at Maximas, etc. should really do the research AND drive them. I'm more than happy with my '01 P two-tone with 24K (flawless) and after 3 family Maximas (and continous repairs).
The dealer is no help. They can't duplicate it because the car was not heavily loaded and/or there are no hills around here that are long enough to cause the problem at the temperatures during their tests. The service consultant acted as if I was delirious and the car really didn't overheat, which really ticks me off. The guy was a real a**h*le. They said Mazda won't authorize any part replacements unless the problem is duplicated. They expect ME to pay for the parts. (AutoWest Mazda, Roseville, CA).
Mazda has so far been no help either. They have also walked away from the problem saying, and I quote, "Driving up a long hill with the air conditioning causing the car to overheat could be considered a normal condition". I just sent a letter to the president of Mazda North American Operations. It's the last recourse I have other than to file a lawsuit.
I KNOW this problem will surface again and again until something gets fixed. And since the warranty period is ticking away and fall is approaching (cooler weather), I will lose the ability to verify the problem has been fixed, until next summer.
I have told Mazda that it's time for them to start replacing parts at their expense and I will commit the hours it takes to determine whether the problem has been fixed.
After all, this is the mighty Millenia S, the flagship of the Mazdas, the 'Amati'; competitor to the baby Lexus. Somehow I think I would have been treated differently by a Lexus or Infiniti dealer!
If this happened to you or if you have any ideas as to what the most likely cause might be, please post.
Thanks
Or, you could schedule a service appointment with a dealer that is close to those hilly areas and try to recreate the problem. A little more hassle that way but might get you closer to a solution. Let us know how it goes.
The dealer was no help. They said there were no overheats stored in the ECU. The reason why there weren't any is because I used the heater to add the additional cooling necessary to prevent the engine from going critical. They are a big city dealership and have little or no customer advocacy. Hence, they offered no possible causes. The attitude was 'we can't duplicate it so go pound sand, buddy...'.
It must be something just out of tolerance, though, because I can drive the car around here (Sacramento, CA, area) on the flat and up small to medium hills and it never overheats. Even when it's over 100 degrees out (which happens all too often around this place!!). It only happens when I am driving in the most demanding situations. Quite an annoying quandry.
As far as dealers near one of the 'hills of death', even the dealer in Redding, CA, (closest to one of the hills where it happened), is an hour from the hill. The other hills are in the middle of nowhere, at least two hours from a dealer (exactly the kind of place where you DON'T want to break down). My guess is that if this car 'lived' east of the Mississippi, the problem would never surface.
I am going to take it to another dealer around here in hopes they'll work a little harder to diagnose the problem.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Good luck -
Tomek
Also, what happens if you just blow the thing up? new engine?