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Mazda Millenia

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Comments

  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    how much was the blank? It seems that for what you paid you could have ordered it through your Mazda dealer (about $55, I think).
  • kimmarckimmarc Member Posts: 4
    I am interested in the owners manual and will pay the cost of postage. Email me kimmarc@hotmail.com to let me know if u are interested. Thanks
  • sprocketboysprocketboy Member Posts: 9
    The blank was $9, so I suspect that it might have been cheaper to have just ordered a key from the Mazda dealer. Live and learn. On the other hand, Murphy's Law states that if you only have one key, something will happen to it. Probably in the rain. In the middle of nowhere.

    As to driving a Mazda and paying Lexus prices, the key is probably now more Lexus than Mazda. Incidentally, the Millenia is sold in the UK as a competitor to the Jaguar S-Type, of all things. Given that the Lexus has zero status in Europe, perhaps Lexus owners there pay Mazda key prices!
  • mkosovermkosover Member Posts: 9
    Hi all, I have 1996 Mazda Millenia P
    trying to program the keyless remote control and can't get there. I found the instructions in article #1929.
    I can't get the car to beep once (confirmation that its ready to program the remotes after step 4). I have seen another set of instuctions that says that key needs to go to ON position and does not have step 1 altogether.
    Can someone please post instructions for year 1996? I would greatly appreciate it.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    In the left column under "Search" click on "Advanced Search". Then mark the boxes as such:

    Type the word remote in the search box and check the following two items.

    "Search discussion body text."

    "In discussion Mazda Millenia."

    I got a lot of hits but the url doesn't work if I post it here.
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    after seeing the 6 today, I must say I like it a lot, but that said, if anyone is on the fence deciding between the Millenia and the 6, don't worry about passing on the 6 and getting the Millenia....The Millenia seems a bit larger and more luxurious in comparison. Since good deals are to be had right now, you could get a well appointed Millenia for the price of a 6. That also said, the 6 will no doubt be more sporty and a more 'engaging' car. I did not drive the 6 but sat inside one and I thought the materials were quite good overall, but the car did not have the same feel as inside the Millenia. The Millenia is softer and the 6 has some BMW overtones. The 6 feels smaller, even if its about the same size.

    I guess what I am trying to say is Mazda fans have a good choice right now, and just go with where you feel. If you like the comfort oriented feel of the Millenia, get your hands on one while the deals are good!
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    The 6 is larger on the inside. That was one of the Millenia's drawbacks from day 1.
  • kevinautokevinauto Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Millenia with about 110k miles. Recently, I smelled something like coolant burning under the hood when the engine was hot. I checked the coolant reservoir and found that the coolant level was at the bottom of the reservoir. Then I added some coolant (this was probably a very stupid move). After turning on the engine, those added coolant disappeared after a short time ( less than 1 minute). However, I didn't see any coolant puddle on the ground. Can anyone tell me what happened to my car? how serious would it be? What are the right steps to fix it?

    Thanks in advance!
  • granado87granado87 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 Millenia P, and I have been experiencing a problem with the car pulling to the left when I drive. I took it to a Big O Tires Shop (national chain) in Petaluma, CA. They said they fixed the problem, and although the severity has lessened, the pulling still occurs.

    I then took it to another Big O Tires shop in San Francisco (only because of my schedule was more convenient to do so) and they found that the alignment was fine, but the tire pressure was definitely low (funny how that wasn't checked at the previous shop).

    Anyways, the first repair was just done recently on Saturday (11/16/02) and the second repair was done today (11/18/02). Needless to say after each repair the pulling to the left has lessened, BUT STILL EXISTS!

    At this point, is there a reason to just take it to a Mazda Dealership and have them take a look at it--for warrantly related issues? Does it cost anything for Mazda to take a look at it, especially under the circumstances?

    Any comments, suggestions, advice would definitely be appreciated.

    Michael
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    granado87, I own a 2001 P that I rotated the tires on yesterday at 7445 miles. I test drove it and it tracks straight as an arrow. I have never experienced anything but perfect straightline performance at any speed up to and over 110 MPH.

    Now to the point. Your new Millenia carries a bumper to bumper warranty on virtually everything. I believe you wasted both your time and money taking it to anybody but a Mazda dealer where it would have been worked on free of any charge, plus a free loner car while it was being cared for.

    By the way, improper tracking can be just as easily due to rear wheel alignment as front wheel alignment.

    Do yourself a favor and take it back to the dealer where it can be properly checked out and repaired if necessary. You will have plenty of time to pay aftermarket retailers your hard earned money after your new car warranty runs out. For the 2002 models I think that is 50000 miles.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    I would check with the dealer first to see if the alignment is covered under the warranty. This use to be the big complaint with all manufactures is that you would buy a new car and the alignment was out then take it back to the dealer and they would say you caused the problem therefore it is normal wear and you would have to pay for it because it is not a manufacturing problem. I do not know if they still do this but check first to possibly save yourself a shock.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    covers alignment in the first 12 months of the warranty. This is common for most manufacturers.
  • tuckerdog1tuckerdog1 Member Posts: 37
    I've thought the MM was a great looking car since they first came out. But too rich for my wallet. Funny how things change. Three weeks back, my wife & I started the test drives to pick out a new car. We tried Altima, Maxima, Passat and a used 2002 MM-S with 9700 miles and all the options. There were other cars on my list to test, but my wife said there was no point. She wanted the MM. The dealer wanted $19,900, but told me they had a 2002 MM-S SE enroute that had suffered some damage, and could not be sold as "NEW". The damage was supposed to be one of the tow hooks that the car is secured to the transport trailer with, had been damaged because too much force had been applied to it. And this damage had been repaired. This may be some dealer song & dance I was falling for, but they said I could have the car for $22K. I figured for $2100 extra, I'd take the new car over the used one.
    Once the car arrived though, things were not quite as stated. There was no damage, but there was 2900 miles on it. I really wanted the car. It has every option, and is perfect. To make things right over the mystery milage, the dealer tossed in a 6 year 100,000 warranty.
    Only had it a few days, but I love it. So much more for the money than anything in it's class.
  • granado87granado87 Member Posts: 6
    I guess I forgot to say that I am out of the warranty in regards to alignment because I have 17,000 miles on the car. The warranty is 12 months/12,000 miles.

    Anyways, I took the car back to the Petaluma shop and what they did was switch the two front tires. And what happened---the car began pulling to the otherside. THE PROBLEM IS THE WHEEL. Well, I asked them to switch the front wheels with the rear wheels. I haven't tested it on the freeway yet (which is where I really felt the problem), but I believe it still pulls.

    My question now is, any chance I can call Michelin Tires and complain saying that it is a defect? Any comments, advice, suggestions would be most appreciated.

    Michael
  • ziggiziggi Member Posts: 4
    I recently bought a 97 Millenia L and have noticed that the engine turns faster at 60mph than my 97 Camry (2650rpm vs. 2150rpm). Would this affect the ultimate life of the engine? I remember reading somewhere that Mazda lowered the final drive ratio after '95 to improve performance. Does anybody know what engine-drivetrain changes have taken place over the years from 95-02 ?
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    Is the problem the tire or the wheel? If it is the wheel, provided you have not bounced it off a curb or damaged it, it should be covered under the warranty. If it is the tire it never hurts to complain though they will probable pro rate the tire.
  • eddie1337eddie1337 Member Posts: 8
    Hello everyone. Im comming here from the Isuzu Rodeo TownHall. I've been eying the Millenia now for a while now but what gets me is that some people are saying that they paid about 21,000 for the P. Around here in Illinois the prices are in the 24's. What gives? I love this car but is 24 and change too much? Going out tomorow for a test drive!
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    Sure 24 K for a P is too much, in Boston they're now advertised (whatever is left) at 20.6K - definitely under 21K. An S should run you 25K (I paid 26 for my '01S in July 2001).
    Tomek
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Ignore any advertised price. Go to a car dealer with the attitude that you are the customer, and you are in charge of the negotiation process. Also never act as if you really want a particular car. There is always another one down the street. When the dealer or salesman tries to run things take command and give him your take it or leave it deal. If they say no, so what. Go to another dealer.

    If asked what it will take to get you to buy today, give them your rock bottom offer. In this case about $21000 total for a MM P or about $23000 OUT THE DOOR. Don't be angry or threatening, just firm.

    Before you go, get to know the dealer incentives, customer incentives, MSRP (ignore that figure), dealer invoice and all other figures concerning the car so they can't pull the wool over your eyes with a line of bs. They also have a holdback they won't tell you about. All this is available on the internet. Print it out in case you want to show it to them.

    You may have to walk away from two or three salemen, but do it. Never sit and wait more than 10 minutes for a saleman to go to the SalesManager for approval. If he is gone that long walk toward the door as if to leave, he'll cut you off at the pass to keep you from leaving. That is part of their little game. You will get your deal if you just take a little time and persist. Never forget you are the customer. Salesmen can't seem to grasp that concept without being gently reminded of that fact.

    Happy car shopping and enjoy your new $21000 MMP.
  • casmiras01casmiras01 Member Posts: 11
    Which one would be better to get I have seen both of these cars advertised for around the same price. My max I want to spend is around 15k. The millenia seems a hell of a lot bigger, but the g20 seems like its more reliable and less maintenance. The repairs on the millenia when it does break down is through the roof. I am leaning on the g20 but it seems I can get a lot more car on a millenia.
    What do you guys think pros on cons on both cars, please try to give me some objective responses.
    Thanks
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    good info on how not to buy a car.
  • rbrubakerrbrubaker Member Posts: 54
    I have a 99 Millenia S. It pulled to one direction from the day I purchased it(new). The dealer did a couple of alignments, and then said I had a radial tire pull. At that point, I had to go to a tire dealer (Big O) for the tire warranty. They couldn't find the bad tire, and replaced one at random to get rid of me. The car didn't pull anymore until I rotated the tires. I then unrotated them and wore them out. I then purchaced new tires all the way around and haven't had a problem since.

    Are you sure about your warranty? It should go to 3 yr/36k miles? At least that is what mine was.

    Good luck,
    Bob
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    "good info on how not to buy a car."

    You might be right if you want to pay too much. I've bought about 20 that way and it has worked very well.
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    I'm not saying it doesnt work for you...but being confrontational is not the best way for most people to get a fair deal.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    " Don't be angry or threatening, just firm."

    Please take note of that from my post. I did not advocate being confrontational. Only to not allow yourself to be run over by high pressure salespeople, which includes almost all of them, and keep yourself in control of the negotiations. They are trained to take advantage of any weakness you might show, so you have to be equally prepared to resist their sales pitch. I have had to actually walk away from some very beligerant salespeople to avoid a major argument. Before buying my newest car, my '01 MM, a Nissan salesman stood between me and the door and told me "you are not going to go to another dealer and tell them our deal". I of course walked out on him and never went back. Not all salespeople will do that, but almost all will lie, or if you prefer twist the truth in order to get your signature on that contract.

    I stick by my recommendation as to how to buy that new car.
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    again, I say it's fine if it works for you...but very few car buyers are able to do what you advocate...I got no problem with a consumer using simple techniques to avoid the pushy salestypes...I am a hard closer so I know exactly what your trying to avoid. :)

    When a consumer is firm, thats fine as long as they are in the know and are realistic with their offers, like you seem to be. Short deal but do-able... But reality in the car biz is this...when people don't get what they want they usually resort to hissy fits or some sort. haha
    Thus your way of car buying quickly becomes confrontational.

    Had it happen today. I told a person "NO thank you I will pass on your offer"...and you should have seen how hysterical they got. You would stand up and say thank you but no deal and we would part as friends...but many buyers act like a first graders when they are told NO...haha
  • csuftitanscsuftitans Member Posts: 215
    I don't know how it is over there, but here in SoCal, almost every dealership has a fleet person or internet department. Call them/email them for no-haggle price. Usually you will get a much better price than trying to haggle with a salesperson.

    Good Luck.

    BTW, fwatson is right, aim for about $21K for Millenia P and $25 for the S model. $22 is a bit much.
  • ziggiziggi Member Posts: 4
    I bought a used 97L recently and was given one key. Before I start looking for a remote transmitter, I need to know if my car even has a remote receiver. Does anybody know how I can tell that?
    Thanks..
  • ziggiziggi Member Posts: 4
    I have read on this board that the 6-K service is quite pricy (>$1000). Perhaps one can save money by doing some of the work at home. Does anybody know what exactly is done at 60K miles?
  • ziggiziggi Member Posts: 4
    Some of the problems articulated on this board are quite scary for a new owner of a 97L. Does anybody have good stories of achieving high mileage 100K-200K with no problems at all??
    Just looking for some balance :-)
  • billyperksbillyperks Member Posts: 449
    Dealers in New York are selling the Millenia "P" in the 19,000.00 range.

    Check out the Friday New York Post.11/22/02
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    They advertise at that price...but try to actually take delivery at that price...lol
  • billyperksbillyperks Member Posts: 449
    Ok I got the drift- those weasels :)
  • audia8qaudia8q Member Posts: 3,138
    I am no fan of dealers who advertise prices that get the salesperson fired if they actually sell the "ad car" and this sounds like one of those...lol If you want the car at their ad price...go for it, its a great deal. But I bet they really make you work for it.

    Now that the mazda6 is in stock I have loaded up with additional Millenia's...In the past two weeks we have seen a big jump in Millenia sales and our sale prices have climbed quite a bit because of it. The discounts on the Millenia make the car very attractive compared to a fully loaded 6.
    I don't think its a better car just a great alternative to the 6.
  • billyperksbillyperks Member Posts: 449
    Guys I have to share this with you-

    I was shopping around Saturday for my new ride and right now I have the following cars on my radar-Passat GLX 4-MOTION, INFINITI I35, AUDI A4 3.0, ACURA 3.2TL TYPE S and maybe the Millenia S if these choices does not satisfy.

    I went to the Passat dealer first,and you guys are not going to believe what happen.I did not tell the sales person I wanted to lease,so I negotiated a really good price for the car and then I told him I think I would rather lease for that capitalized cost of the car.

    He turns to me and tells me that it does not work that way, he has to use M.S.R.P for a capitalized cost to calculate the lease.At that time I was saying to myself,"does this guy sees idiot written all over me".
    I thanked him for his time and walked right out.

    Now,you guys tell me, is he for real or what?
  • setampsetamp Member Posts: 16
    I am trying to find a P in Pittsburgh but the price is coming in at $24k before tax and title. Anyone know of a dealer that is willing to deal? Also, does anyone know the actual Mazda incentives on this car. Dealers here seem to be working off invoice+profit-$5k Mazda incentives. There must be additional incentives to get the price down to $20k.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    They are advertised for $20,900... with sticker 28,000 - I'd say you should be able to do that deal in Pittsburgh. Good luck.
    Tomek
  • setampsetamp Member Posts: 16
    If anyone can help with this, I am trying to figure out how the numbers work to get me to the $21k area. I am looking at a car with an MSRP of $29,195 (base + $520 destination and $600 all season package). The invoice is $26,960. The Mazda rebate is $5k so I am at $21,960 with the dealer making nothing but the holdback. Is there an additional rebate that takes this cost lower?
  • david4862david4862 Member Posts: 11
    Hi,
    I only had troubles with my Millenia. Of course
    things broke down before a well--made automobile
    should. I maintained it as diligently as possible. I have a stack full of repair bills
    for all the car's major component systems. Unless
    Mazda has improved their quality, don't buy
    their product.
    David
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Sorry to hear about your troubles. Were you ever able to get Mazda to help you out with your repairs? BTW, when should a well made automobile break down?
  • rexx2rexx2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I just purchased a Millenia a week ago and just love it so far. For the price I couldnt find a car with soo many extras. But....hoping this will get better with time, appears to be a major gas guzzler. Is this common with new car and hopefully will get better mileage down the road?? thanks for any responses.
  • tuckerdog1tuckerdog1 Member Posts: 37
    Rexx2,

    We've had our Millenia S about 3 or 4 weeks now. About an even mix of in town & freeway miles has returned 23.5 mi/gallon. Hope things improve for ya.

    Tuckerdog
  • jimp817jimp817 Member Posts: 1
    My wife has a '94 626LX V6. It only has 60K on it and she loves it. She did not anticipate replacing it for several years (when she retires and doesn't have to park in a school parking lot).I saw an ad in the local small town paper for a used Millenia. It was a good price. So we looked at it and at a 6 as a point of reference. Loved the Millenia (always have like it styling). We test drove the 6, and within a few miles we knew that this sporty (make that harsh) riding car was not for us. So she ended up buying a '01 Millenia P with 17K miles for $14,800.We've only had it for a few days but we are looking forward to many years and miles in a beautiful and comfortable car.
  • lcablelcable Member Posts: 1
    I was at the dealer last night and they had a 2002 Millenia P demo with 4000 miles on it. Their asking $18,900 for it. Is that a good price or should I negotiate down seeing that you can get new ones with zero miles for around $21,000?
  • opieandyopieandy Member Posts: 2
    Icable, I would suggest you take the deal! A dealer here in Atlanta has 12-15 of the 2002s on the lot, which seems like a large inventory to me. It is a decent sized dealer, but not huge. I haven't found any other dealers with as many. A similar sized dealer has zero 2002s. So I thought these guys might be willing to deal. The lowest they would go was invoice + $100 = $21,636. I balked. After reading the posts here and seeing deals people have gotten going back to the spring of '02, and knowing the model is discontinued and the Mazda6 is now out. Now I'm torn between the Mazda6, which I can get for around $500 under MSRP (MSRP is $20,600 on the 4 cyl with moonroof and auto trans), or the Millenia. Do I pay $1,500 more for the bells and whistles of the Millenia? Hmmm...
  • granado87granado87 Member Posts: 6
    I have a white MM 2002. It has a couple of small holes in the paint job in the front of the car. Probably from small flying rocks. I was wondering what is the best way to repair the holes (which are very small--but still....).

    I've used the touch up paint that Mazda sells but it just ends up being a big "glob" of paint on top (similar to white out correction fluid on paper). Is there a better way to apply this. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    This paint can be a real pain, it took me a few tries before I figured it out. When you use this touch-up paint I found out that you have to take off almost all the paint on this applicator. When you pull the bush out wipe it along the side as you pull it out to get the excess paint off of it so that you almost have nothing on it. Then when you go to put it on your car only put a drop on it, like an eye dropper. It will leave a little bubble on it, that is fine. When the paint dries over night it will dry flat and flush, this means you will not have a bubble. DO NOT try and brush this on it only makes a mess, speaking from experience. The key is to have virtually no paint on the applicator though.
    Good Luck.
  • momazdamomazda Member Posts: 3
    I've found the best way is to buy a small very fine art paint brush at a craft or art store. The fine brush will only hold a very small amount of paint which is all you need.
  • tuckerdog1tuckerdog1 Member Posts: 37
    I got two small ( about 1/4" long ) scratches on the top of my fender. They are pretty deep. The car has been washed & waxed since the scratches appeared. Is there some prep I should do to remove any wax in the scratches before I apply the touch-up paint?

    Thanks
  • billyperksbillyperks Member Posts: 449
    I went over to the Mazda dealership in Milford on Saturday.I test drove the 6s auto and I have to say I was pretty much impressed with the handling and the power.The build/material was also impressive,unfortunately I will not be buying one.
    Personally, I don't think this is a Millenia replacement as these car magazines would make you beleive.I found it to be a little bit cramp in the back seat and something just seems to be missing.
    Maybe if I was 21, fresh out of college I would seriously consider this car,it's a whole lot of car for the price you are paying.Again, no disrespect to all you Mazda 6 enthusiast.
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