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Mazda Millenia



  • tig2002tig2002 Posts: 81
    I did not compare the value of MM to the price that I purchased for. I compared the following: The trade-in value of my MM on with odometer reading 15,000 mi. a few months ago was $14,950. Now the same trade-in value at the same site with odometer reading of 18,500 is $15,200, although a month ago the value with reading 17,500 was $15,550. I don't know how true it can be, but it can happen to the car that has been discontinued and has good feedback from consumer. Of course, the value of this car drops dramatically when comparing MSRP of brand new one and the present value, as any other most valuable car on the market, but this is what I got when compared trade-in values.
  • tomacetomace Posts: 6
    tig2002 I think your correct with the theory of value going up because it's discontinued. I purchased my 02 MM S in April 2002. A co-worker of mine purchased an 02 G35 at the same time. Based on our purchased prices the G35 has depreciated more the the MM S. I think that is probably because there is a new Maxima and no new Millenia. I also paid $3000 less than he did. I paid $25,500 for my MM S back then with every option except 2 tone paint and that price included a rear spoiler I added. After the spoiler my car listed for $34,000. I also think more people are paying attention to the Mazda name with the new 6 and the RX8 about to come out. When I purchased my car, I considered the discontinuing of it and new 6 and had a feeling over time it could help slow the depreciation.

    Heads do turn when I pull up in my car. You just don't see one every mile like Accords, Camrys, Maximas, etc. I also keep it exceptionally clean and the silver with the chrome wheels is extremely sharp looking.
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    I checkout a couple of other owner sites a few times a week and I must say they are rather strange. One is called Roadrunner Mazda club and is run by The moderator shows up maybe once a decade, there is no search engine and you get a post asking about a 929, the next post is about a 1995 B2000 truck or somesuch and there is little response. Very strange web site. The other one is at and is a somewhat better site to search thru. You can go to Millenias only but about 90% of the posters there seems to be children in adult bodies. The big thing with several of them is to see who can register the most posts in a day, many posts contain one word with the rest of the screen filled with a picture of their car and all the "who cares but you" data of what they have added, etc. Informative and yet annoying, sifting thru the mindless drivel. Hope they drive better than they write. Any other sites out there worth checking into? I am taking my 2000 MM S in tomorrow for oil and filter and check out or clean the air filter. They check the fluid levels etc for around $35 Can. dollars or about $25 U.S. before taxes. I said I wanted 10w/30 because that is the range recommended for the temperatures over the next several months. I think 5w/30 is too light for summer driving. They said they always put in 5w/30 and that is what they used in May just before I took delivery on May 27. There was no indication that they had done an oil change (very glad they did however) and they also did a safety check and a "drive clean" inspection before delivery. In Ontario we have to pass pollution tests etc every two years and a safety check is mandatory when selling or buying a used vehicle, thru the dealer or privately. No certificate, no licence transfer. Eventually we will get all those oil burners off the road. What oil do you use and what is average temperature for summer and also winter driving. fwatson is exempt since I am very familiar with central Florida weather. It's sort of like New Orleans with two seasons - February and summer. fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I run 10W30 Castrol GTX Drive Hard and Supertech Filter. I change every 3000 miles or 6 months.

    Our temperatures range from 20 to 97 degrees f. Not exactly Feb and summer. We have several month of GORGEOUS spring and fall weather. The hot summer months are from about mid June to mid September. I lived in Missouri until I was 18. The summers there were shorter, but every bit if not more hot and humid. Anything above Iowa I consider the Tundra. :)
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    If you remember, my wife and I spent about 5 1/2 months every year in New Port Richey on the gulf coast, from late October to mid April so yes, I am very familiar with FL weather. If I were there all year I too would definitely used 10w/30. This will be the first winter in a decade that we won't be going south and I will have to learn to drive thru that white stuff all over again. We will miss Carrabbas the most plus all the other fresh seafoods, although I saw in yesterday's St. Pete Times that "fresh" grouper is not always fresh, some of it comes from as far as New Zealand and is frozen, even coming from Thailand.
    Who do you trust anymore? fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    Hey, we also get California oranges. :)
  • tomacetomace Posts: 6
    Posting 2522 of mine should have said I35 NOT G35. A different co-worker of mine has a G35 and the depreciation on it is much slower. Sorry for the confusion...
  • mills01mills01 Posts: 3
    Hello All,
    With my SuperCharger gone , I am going through Four quarts every week. Any suggestions?
    Was there any discussion about replacing 'S' - Miller Cycle engine with the regular engine? Is this possible?

  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I am sure that would be possible, but a new SC would probably be a lot cheaper.
  • tomekktomekk Posts: 310
    What do you mean "with my SuperCharger gone"? How did that happen? The car's still driveable?

    "Four quarts every week" ... over how many miles?

    As fwatson points out, how much you're talking for sc replacement? Have you tried getting it from a junkyard (given its decent brakes, there must be some Millenias S rear-ended out there)

  • mills01mills01 Posts: 3
    History - Just about a year ago I had the check engine light ON as a result of a faulty SC - according to the Dealer.
    Since then I had to put four quarts of OIL every 1000 mi ( approx ) until recently. In the last month I see a change in the pattern with OIL LOW light coming ON every week. I put four quarts last Monday, I might have driven for three days during the week (approx 100mi) and this morning ( Monday) on my way to work I had the OIL light come up. It took four quarts again.

    I was told a Used - SC is $4500. Is that true?

  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    google for "used mazda parts" but don't use the quote marks. This might give you a start.

    1995 Turbocharger/Supercharger 16117 $1400
    Standard Auto Recycling USA-CA(Chula-Vista) 1-619-426-1166
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    I go to eBay (Mazda MIllenia). There was a used supercharger there about a week ago and it sure as heck wasn't $4500 by a long shot. eBay is a good spot to check on a regular basis for Millenia stuff - just keep away from the microchips that promise an extra 10 to 20hp. They are simply resistors and will boost brake hp by no more than 3 hp if that. Lots of used keyless remotes there all the time. Got my extra there and works like a dream. fairwood
  • misty8misty8 Posts: 15
    Fairwood: In your July 20 posting you stated "Don't try to save money by using the cheapest gas you can find; stay with the recommended premium. The cost difference over a year of normal driving (10 to 12 thousand miles) is perhaps $50 or $60." I used to think the same thing. However, my 99 P recently misfired from a cold start and the Check Engine Light came on. When I took it to the dealer I was informed that there is a service bulletin recommending that only regular octane gas should be used in the base model. The use of premium grade can cause engine misfires during cold starts. I've switched to regular and I have not noticed any performance problems.
  • billyperksbillyperks Posts: 449
    That's dealer baloney-did you actually see the bulletin?
    I had a 99p (pearl white) and all I fed it was 93octane.
    The car was solid as a bullet for the 39 months I had it.
  • misty8misty8 Posts: 15
    Bulletin No: 01-027/02


    All 1995 - 2002 Millenia models with 2.5L V6 (KL)


    After a cold start, MIL comes on with DTC P0300 to P0306 stored in the memory. In most cases, this concern may be caused by misfire occurring in one cylinder during idle. The use of premium fuel (high-octane fuel) may be allowing carbon deposits to accumulate on the exhaust valve seat, causing momentary insufficient compression.

    To correct this concern, remove carbon deposits using a suitable top engine cleaner.

    Note: After removing the carbon deposits, be sure to advise the customer to use lower-octane fuel (87 or 89 octane) to help prevent future recurrences.

    This doesn't sound like dealer baloney to me.
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    I've been argued with for recommending the use of 87 octane in the P model. Mine now has about 12000 miles on it all on 87 octane except the first dealer fillup.

    People just can't seem to understand that the only reason for a higher octane fuel is if the engine pings or knocks. Mine has never done either, and runs perfectly under all conditions. That old high octane fable, that your car will run better, has been around as long as there has been more than one grade of fuel and the oil companies could charge more for it. There is actually less energy in high octane gasoline than in the cheaper stuff. That is because the anti-knock additives displace some of the exact same fuel that you pay less for.

    I checked AllData for 2001 Mazda MMP: That is TSB #5

       1. 0700103 MAY 03 A/C - Musty/Mildew Type Odors
       2. 0800103 MAY 03 Air Bag System - Parts Replacement After Deployment
       3. 0700402 APR 03 A/C - Musty/Mildew Odors
       4. S01898 APR 03 Body - Wind Noise Around Doors
       5. 0102702 APR 03 Engine - MIL ON/ DTC's P0300 - P0306 Set
       6. 0102902 APR 03 Exhaust System - Sulfur Smell
       7. 0100701 APR 03 Fuel System - MIL ON/DTCP1455/Erratic Gauge Readings
       8. 0901000 APR 03 Keyless Entry - Transmitter Battery Inspection
       9. 0600103 APR 03 Steering Column - Stuck in 'UP' Position
      10. 0200401 APR 03 Wheels - Chrome Wheel Rusting
      11. 0700102R DEC 02 A/C - Water Leaks onto Passenger Floor
      12. 0100701R AUG 02 Fuel System - MIL ON/Fuel Gauge Inaccurate/Erratic
      13. 0700302 MAY 02 A/C - Cabin Air Filter Replacement
      14. 0700202 APR 02 A/C - Lack of Heat in Passenger Compartment
      15. 0101302 APR 02 Fuel System - Fuel Injector Replacement Guidelines
      16. 0100602 FEB 02 Fuel System - Fuel Pump/Component Replacement Guidelines
      17. 0901801 DEC 01 Accessories - Keyless Entry Service Information
      18. 0600101R1 NOV 01 Steering - Tilt Steering Wheel Inoperative
      19. 0900701 OCT 01 Audio System - Radio Removal Precautions
      20. 0101601 OCT 01 Fuel System - Difficult Fuel Pump Installation
      21. 0200401R AUG 01 Wheels - 17 Inch Chrome Wheel Corrosion
      22. 0500101 APR 01 A/T - Whining/Ringing Noise in Interior
      23. 0900700 JUL 00 Interior - Cigarette Lighter Does Not Work Properly

    Thanks for that enlightening information misty8
  • I straddle the fence and use a lot of 89/90 octane. In the midwest there is an abundance of these grades with 10% ethanol. As a bonus they are generally only 1 cent more or in some corn belt states the same price where tax credits are in place.

    People debate gas-a-hol, but it does keep things cleaner. My brother was in the convience store business for many years. He has seen first hand how much cleaner the inner workings of an old pump are that dispensed blended fuel.

    I also think much of the call for premium is pure snob appeal. Honda and Acura share engines that are tweeked here and there, but all Acuras call for premium, not the case with Honda. Just being snobish IMHO.
  • fairwoodfairwood Posts: 91
    Haven't seen any posts here for some days and I came today to post a question and found the interesting posts on what octane gas to use. This arguement or discussion will go on as long as there are choices. Interesting posts, all of them. Personally I have a mental block regarding ethanol, going back to "horror stories" some years ago when it was first introduced. It was softening or swelling neoprene gaskets, seals etc with the resultant costs associated with that. I stopped using Sunoco some years ago because they are using ethanol in Canada as well as USA. Also stopped using BP in USA for same reason. My wife's two wheelchair vans (a VW then a Voyager) cried out for it like kids for candy! Now for the reason I came here in the first place today: My engine temp gauge (2000 Millenia S, 2.3 supercharged) always sits about 1/16 inch below the half way mark even when driven hard for extended periods. Seems a little low even though there are no markers, just E and F. I am wondering about winter heater efficiency. This will be my first experience with winter in 10 years. Never had to worry about snow, cold, ice, etc in Florida did we fwatson? fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Posts: 639
    You mean your temperature is either Empty or Full? ;-)

    My '01 P runs slightly below the middle of the gauge. I leave the Climate Control on auto 76degrees year round, and it heats and cools as it should. Of course it doesn't get -30 here, but the HVAC system seems very well thought out, so I am sure it will not leave you cold. In Canada, you should also have the optional bunn warmer.
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