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Mazda Millenia

1474850525376

Comments

  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I was thinking you might just have a faulty tach. But if you feel a physical tug, you will need a mechanic to find out why that is occuring. It sounds like the ECM might be malfunctioning and causing the problem.

    Good luck.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    Maybe it's just downshifting (or the torque converter is disengaging) to maintain speed on an incline? Even slight incline can do it at 65-70 mph, where there isn't enough torque to keep constant speed.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Good thoughts tomekk. If he isn't used to the unique shifting of the MM transmission he might be incorrectly interpretting what is happening.
  • mmerchantmmerchant Member Posts: 18
    Welcome to driving the Millenia 2000 S in winter for the first time. Well with the OEM Dunlops SP5000 (215/50R17) on my 2001 Millenia S I had a nightmare last winter . I have just placed an order for Hankook W300 Ice Bear from tiretrends.com (a Canadian based internet site).
    This is a brand new performance tire for winter and I hope its as good as what the Canadian Hankook rep just told me - Hankook has also received a nod from Transport Canada for winter driving.

    I was considering ordering the Extreme Contact, which has been highly rated at tiretrack.com for its great winter characteristics. But then I noted that its load index rating is 90. The Dunlops SP5000 has a load index of 91.

    I really don't know the implications of going down one point, but a reputable tire dealer suggested that I stick with the minimum 91 specified on the decal on the door panel.

    Other than winter, the Dunlop SP Sports 5000 is an outstanding tire. The tires need to be replaced shortly - after around 56,000 Kms.
  • mmerchantmmerchant Member Posts: 18
    I am glad you are enjoying your 2002 Millenia.

    I was surprised though that you do not feel very comfortable going past the 80-85 mph (not kms I hope) and I wonder whether the (GOODYEAR) tires are the cause for this apprehension. I hope thay are V rated which is what comes standard with the vehicle.

    I have 2001 Millenia S and have driven it, dare I say, at 110-115 mph (I am sure others have done better) without in the least feeling uncomfortable. I have OEM Dunlop Sports SP 5000 (size 215/50R17 which are V rated.

    Please make sure you have the right tires.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I was rather taken back by the complaint with the MM at high speeds. That is where it truly shines. I have been well in excess of 100MPH more than once, and constantly exceed 80 when passing on two lane crowned roads.

    My "01 P is rock steady, and if you trust the tires completely you could take your hands off the steering wheel at those speeds with no problem.

    Mine has the OEM Michelins which are V rated. But the V speed rating has nothing to do with handling. An excellent touring tire of S should be just fine at 100 or so MPH. It is rated for 112 MPH sustained speeds.

    Other ratings, again this is only a sustained speed rating, not a handling rating which is a function of tire design.

    S- 112 mph- 180 km/h
    T- 118 mph- 190 km/h
    U- 124 mph- 200 km/h
    H- 130 mph- 210 km/h
    V- 149 mph

    If you have too much money and don't know what to spend it on, you might want to try one of these.

    W- 168 mph- 270 km/h-Exotic Sports Cars
    Y- 186 mph---------- Exotic Sports Cars
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    I actually liked those Dunlop SP 5000 MUCH better than Goodyear Eagla GA I had on antoher car earlier. Goodyears had strange "greasy" feeling even in the rain, forget snow.

    And I also have to say that my MM S has excellent stability at high (80+ speeds) on the stock Dunlops.

    Tomek
  • skspghskspgh Member Posts: 28
    I have experienced flat/deflated front tires over the past year. My 2001S is just about 25 months with me. However, since 10,000 miles, I noticed having flats or deflated tires for no real reason. The mechanic (at 10,800) miles showed me the chrome alloyed wheels were corroding from the inside and results in the air leaks. I went on to replace my damaged tires with new ones from NTB. They continued to deflat. I lived with a shimmy for over a year. Recently, the front tires deflat every 15 days, and the shimmy makes my driving unsafe at high speeds. I complained to my local dealership who have charged me for wheel rotations, balancing and the works. No help. Finally I made a case that the wheel is solely responsible for my problems and would like them replaced. My dealer couldn't authorise that and spoke with the local Mazda rep - (Tom D?!). He claimed that Mazda only covers upto 12,000 miles. Today my car has 18,000 miles. I think I have a case to prove the wheel was bad before 12,000 - my tires were required to be changed at 11,000 miles with broken belts and requiring 6 ounces wts as indicated by local Mazda dealership when trying to fix the shimmy. I have paperwork to show a flat was fixed 5 days after the new tires were in! (all below the 12,000 mark). How do you suggest I proceed? I hate my chrome wheel - corroding away so bad. I fully expect and want Mazda to fix this. Quite frustrated - can't really use car right now. So unreliable from the tire perspective....how do you suggest I proceed?
  • mmerchantmmerchant Member Posts: 18
    To skspgh, Message # 2621

    A bulletin was issued regarding corroded wheels on 2001 S. Here is a summary. Please follow up the issue with Mazda. I don't see why you have to live with this situation.

                             Make : MAZDA
                                                   Model : MILLENIA
                                                                     Year : 2001
                             Service Bulletin Num : 0200401R
                                                                     Date of Bulletin: AUG 14, 2001
                             Component: WHEELS
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    I have had my 2000 MM S since May 27 this year. I have aluminum rims, not chrome and there is some peeling here and there in spots, not large flakes as well as the usual curb bruises. My left rear tire loses about 3 lbs over the course of 4 to 6 days. Sometimes one or two of the others will lose a lb or two but I put that down to air temperature changes. I drive only a few thousand feet to the pump location so the tires are cold and have been sitting in the garage out of any early morning sun and I have a very accurate digital gauge. I now think I have a rim problem similar to yours in that air is escaping past these flaking areas. Not to the serious extent that you are experiencing by any means. These low profile tires are a different animal from what I have been driving on for decades, right fwatson? I would be most happy to change over to 16" tires or higher profiles and I think the ride would be a little softer as well. Also these low profile rims are much more prone to out-of-round pounding from ruts, potholes etc. Aluminum does not have the stamina of steel rims. I have hit a few of those 8-inch-across pot holes that you can't avoid unless you cut off that little old lady in the blue Lark. The sound is enough to scare you into imagining the flat spot on the rim.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    I'd disagree with "Aluminum does not have the stamina of steel rims" - steel rims bend much more easily than alu ones. If you had same tires on alu and steel rims, aluminium would take much more abuse before being damaged. The thing is - as you note - that low profile tires are more "vulnerable" and this is what they put on aluminium wheels.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I've been reading the last few posts with interest. I agree the 16" wheels are less prone to damage because of the extra tire between the wheel and the road. And the same makes the "fatter" tire ride better. My 95 Olds also has aluminum wheels as did my 90 T-Bird. Neither of those nor my MM have had any damage to the wheels. I do however crash into the old lady in the Blue Lark rather than hit a pothole. Kinda hard on the grill though. ;-)

    One more thing on the aluminum. Where a steel wheel will bend easier, an aluminum wheel will crack. Whoosh, there goes the air. No cure for that but a new wheel. It also destroys the wheel balance and causes that vibration someone mentioned. If you can live with non-MM wheels though, there are far cheaper "Mags" available than the OEM's.
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    I have been reading for many years about mag wheels and always thought it was short for magnesium. Just what does the term describe or cover or imply? I just realized that I don't know everything after all, just like my wife has said for years. Oh well.... JC
  • skspghskspgh Member Posts: 28
    Thanks for everyone's thoughts and comments. Here's the latest on my story...rather a saga :). I called Mazda customer care who assured me that a face-to-face meeting with the local district Mazda representive is possible. They called my dealership and arranged for a meeting - 2 wks from now. The local rep is apparently the highest authority for the area to approve new wheels or whatever. While talking with the Dealership to confirm time/appt etc, the Service mgr started talking to me more about my problem. He thought it strange that the peeling on the wheel will cause my air to leak and resulting shimmy. He think the rim is of steel and cannot leak air. I'm not a car guy, and only voiced what I've heard from my many trips to various mechanics who all blame the wheel. I will advise him of bulletin in msg #2622. So my next question - can wheel corrosion on the inside of the wheel (rim I guess) cause air leaks?
  • skspghskspgh Member Posts: 28
    In message #2622 Mmerchant pointed this out as something to look into since it deals with wheels and corrosion. How do I find details on this service bulletin - does anyone know a website? Or already have the bulletin. Please share the details. Thanks!
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    0200401R AUG 01 Wheels - 17 Inch Chrome Wheel Corrosion

    Also:

    0200401 APR 03 Wheels - Chrome Wheel Rusting

    -------------------------------------------

    http://www.alldata.com/TSB/33/01332765.html
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I just used "Mag" as a generic for alloy wheels. It does stand for magnesium, but became a nickname kind of like Frigidaire did for refrigerator.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    Hello everyone...I'm happy to say that we can once again have a weekly Mazda chat (for those of you who remember!)

    The chat will be for all Mazda owners. We are talking with the folks at Mazda to see if we can entice a few of the Brand Managers to stop in every once in a while and participate (no promises, but we are working on it!)

    I'm trying to find out from the various Mazda vehicle owners the following:

    1) what night of the week would work best?
    2) what time? (please give the timezone)
    3) what would you like the chat to be called? (e.g. the Subaru chat is the "Subaru Crew" chat)

    We hope to have the Mazda weekly chat going by mid-October.

    I'll check the discussions I post this announcement in - but to not distract you with scheduling details, feel free to email me your choices at sylvia@edmunds.com

    I'm happy this weekly event will be back.
  • mmerchantmmerchant Member Posts: 18
    Here's the web site for 2001 MM S service bulletins. The service dept of your Mazda dealership will have the bulletin details.

    http://www.alldata.com/TSB/33/01332765.html

    Another web site that I would recommend for getting info about recalls and NTSB bulletin is (scroll down on the page):

    http://www.pricingcentral.com/mazda/millenia.html

    Thanks

    mmerchant
  • mmerchantmmerchant Member Posts: 18
    Of course you can subscribe to the bulletin for $24.95 per annum/vehicle at:

    http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html

    mmerchant
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    My '01 MMP is still running flawlessly. But starting about a month ago, I occasionally get a "Check Engine" light for a day or so. Nothing seems wrong when this happens, and I make it a habit to tighten the fuel filler cap at least 5 clicks after each fillup. I can't make a direct connection between fueling and the light coming on. I know that it usually has to do with pollution control, and could just be a bad oxygen sensor or such.

    I was wondering though if any other owners have had the light come on, and then just clear itself after maybe 3 to 4 starts. And if so have you had it checked to know what is causing it. It came on last Saturday when I was going to be close to a Mazda dealer (about 60 miles from home), but by the time I made a couple of stops elsewhere it had cleared so I just skipped the dealer visit.

    Any idea on the cause of this?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,146
    You might try posting your problem in the "Check Engine" light discussion. If you do, make sure to include the mileage too.

    kirstie_h
    Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I'll give that a try.
  • stragfstragf Member Posts: 15
    This is most likely old hat, but I did a search and see that there have been others that have had problems much the same. I found an AllData service bulletin TSB 0600103/0600101R1 that deals with stuck and inoperative tilt on the millenia. My dealer says that the motor is gone, and yet it works intermittently. Motor:$385 (cdn.) New battery in the keyless, and doesn't work. Keyfob replacement $185 (cdn.) Finding some info that allows me to get these fixed or replaced by mazda at low/no cost: Priceless. Anyone able to help? I don't have the actual service bulletins, only the bulletin #'s.
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    If the tilt works intermittantly then I doubt very much if the motor is gone.
    1. Did the keyless remote work before?
    2. Did you get a keyless remote with the (new or used) car?
    3. Why did you buy another remote? Just because the new battery didn't work?
    To get to the meat of the TSB's (technical service bulletins) you have to subscribe. I think it is $25 U.S. for one year. Depending on your dealer's attitude, you may be able to read (but not copy) the service bulletin.
    If you did not have a keyless remote before (for whatever reason) then you must confirm that the one you purchased is the right one for your '98.
    What is the FCC and Canadian part numbers on the back?
    There is a lot of erroneous programming information out there. I have successfully programmed several remotes for my 2000 MM S. All the remotes you have for the car must be programmed at the same time. If you have one that worked before and you are adding another, then the first one will need to be redone at the same time. This is getting too detailed at this stage so please explain your exact problems, provide the numbers on the remote, etc. etc. and we can take it from there. Do not let the dealer replace the motor at this time!!! fairwood
  • stragfstragf Member Posts: 15
    Q,If the tilt works intermittantly then I doubt very much if the motor is gone. A. Mazda checked the wiring, and says it is fine. Motor is sealed unit they say, and can't be repaird. According to them, the contacts contact only occasionally, which is why it works infrequently, and can't be repaired.
    1. Did the keyless remote work before? YES
    2. Did you get a keyless remote with the (new or used) car? YES
    3. Why did you buy another remote? Just because the new battery didn't work? A. I haven't. Mazda says I need a new one. Doesn't work with new battery. Dealer says the "cirguit board is likely damaged. Once when I dropped my keys though, it worked temporarily. I've tried to "play"with the contacts. but will not work.
    To get to the meat of the TSB's (technical service bulletins) you have to subscribe. I think it is $25 U.S. for one year. Depending on your dealer's attitude, you may be able to read (but not copy) the service bulletin.
    If you did not have a keyless remote before (for whatever reason) then you must confirm that the one you purchased is the right one for your '98.
    What is the FCC and Canadian part numbers on the back?
    There is a lot of erroneous programming information out there. I have successfully programmed several remotes for my 2000 MM S. All the remotes you have for the car must be programmed at the same time. If you have one that worked before and you are adding another, then the first one will need to be redone at the same time. This is getting too detailed at this stage so please explain your exact problems, provide the numbers on the remote, etc. etc. and we can take it from there. Do not let the dealer replace the motor at this time!!! fairwood

    Hope this helps Fairwood.
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    stragf: If you feel you should get a new keyless remote then I suggest you buy one thru eBay. (www.ebay.com). There are at least 3 or 4 listed every day and they sell anywhere from $10 to $40 depending on who is bidding and how "hungry" the buyers are. Those are U.S. dollars and shipping to Canada is around $7. Be sure to confirm that the seller will ship to Canada as some will and some won't.
    I can't imagine a remote being damaged from simply dropping on the ground. That must happen a bazillion times a day around the world and I doubt that a printed circuit board would be damaged that easily. But who is to say? Did you check the fuse contacts to make sure the fuse is seated tightly? Sometimes the contacts get corroded and simply pulling and re inserting the fuse is all that is necessary to clean the oxide off. Personally I think that the motorized tilt steering wheel is one of the most stupid overdesigns of the past century!!! The strange workings of the oriental mind I guess. A simple mechanical lever such as I had on my Lincoln Town Car would be far cheaper and simpler to build. I could tilt the wheel up and out of the way without turning off the key each time I stopped at the mail box etc. My ample gut prohibits my sliding in or out with the wheel in my preferred driving position. From what I have seen on other sites, the same fuse affects both the tilt wheel and the remote door locks. fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Quote " Personally I think that the motorized tilt steering wheel is one of the most stupid overdesigns of the past century!!!"

    I set mine where I want it and turned it off a year and a half ago. What an overkill. But, a manual tilt as in my '95 Olds does make sense to me.

    More dislikes that I consider stupid overkill?

    Autodimming anything. What a nuisance to me and the approaching driver. Plus, I'm not too stupid to do it myself, and at the appropriate time.

    $2000 navigation systems. I much prefer a $3 roadmap.

    I guess I'm just not the "luxury" type.

    By the way, I don't have either by choice on either car. My T-Bird had auto dim lights and mirror, and I hated them.
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    Ah yes fwatson but can you fold a roadmap correctly? That was always the true test of an experienced driver in the "good ol' days". And those $3. maps were free for the asking at any full service gas station. Having said that, I wouldn't want to go back there. fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I can't and don't want to go back in time. And yes, I have no problem folding a map back as it was.

    To me, there are some things better left to human judgement, assuming the human has any. I check the map before starting out on a trip, and leave it folded open to the next stretch. I also was far better at knowing when a car was coming over a rise or around a curve, so I could dim at the right time, not after the other driver was blinded by my lights. And I hate brights in my rearview mirror, so I dim the mirrors any time there is a car behind me. The autodim mirror seemed to love brights in my eyes. I swapped the thing out for a manual one and turned off that worthless autodim headlight feature.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    My Owners Manual tells me to take my MM to the dealer to have the Cabin Air Filter changed. But having observed the mechanics at most dealerships, I can't help but feel I am as capable of removing a filter and cleaning it or installing a new one as they are.

    First, do all 2001 MM's have one, and if so where is it located? I think I can handle the strenuous physical job if I know where to look. I've worn out the Google search engine trying to get this information, but I guess Mazda considers it "Top Secret".

    Anybody know where it is if I have one?
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    I went thru a similar exercise last June. The previous owner was a smoker and I wanted to replace that cabin filter. I asked where it was on this or another help site and was told that it was up and under the glove box. Just pull down the flap or somesuch wording and pull the filter out. Yeah, right. My 2000 MM S has a sort of panel up or under there but no way could I get it to pull off. I ended up spritzing some Febreeze around (careful with leather seats) then I put half a sheet of Downy dryer softener over part of the inlet grill at the rear of the engine room at the firewall. That seems to have done the trick.
    If you do get the panel off let us know your method. If you were an acrobat in this or a former life it would help you in the contortions you have to go thru to get under there. fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I have no problem with odors etc. I am just trying to get an answer as to where the Cabin Filter is located if I have one so I can do preventive maintenance.

    Thanks for the input.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    The cabin air filter is located under the dash by the glove box. You have to remove the plastic cover they have under there. There are no screws to this it should just pop out, after you find the right spots to pull down at. Once you drop the plasic cover down it is easy to see where they are at. According to the '02 workshop manual you have to remove a wing nut that is on a tee that holds the filters in place. This tee they call a rubber sheet. There are two filters one with polyurethane and one without. The manual says the filter should be replaced every 12,000 miles or once a year. It also says that the filter cannot be reused by cleaning it with water or compressed air.

    These are supposed to be basic instructions for the Mill in general so it should not matter which model you have. I hope this helps.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    kcm8419.

    That is exactly the information I was looking for. I will check that out.
  • heybradyheybrady Member Posts: 75
    Hello all. My 99P just turned over 50k yesterday. Got it in April with 34k. About 25 mpg overall. Everything is great except the seat warmers stopped working. Not sure when exactly, but when I turned them on yesterday morning, they never heated up. Is this common? Any simple troubleshooting you guys know of (fuses maybe, etc)? Thanks, Brady
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    Welcome. Your problem could be fuse related (did you check the owner's manual for fuse location, type, etc.?) or it could be a loose or open plug connection under the seat. If you vacuumed under the seats when you first got the car last spring then that is a distinct possiblility. I haven't looked under there myself too closely but it has been mentioned as a common source of seat heater problems on other Mazda help sites. It is getting close to that time of year when we northerners will be hitting those seat heater switches, unfortunately. Let us know how you make out. fairwood
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    I do not know if the '99 has it, but if you push the seat warmer button on and the light on it comes on then your fuse will be ok. As mentioned by fairwood and I think fwatson before, check to make sure that there is no plug under the seat that came unplugged.
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    I tried my driver's seat warmer for the first time yesterday and I too was disappointed to find that it either does not work or it is as lousy as my 1984 Volvo 760. The Volvo had leather/vinyl seats also and was totally useless. Volvo admitted as much and upped the heaters for subsequent years. There is usually a pressure switch in or under the padding and I think it takes about 50 lbs or more before the heaters will come on. This prevents the passenger seat to come on (if the switch is on) with a bag of groceries etc. on it. Anyway, I checked the 20 amp fuse in the fuse block under the hood and of course it is ok - the switch light came on yesterday confirming what kcm8419 said above. Has anyone tried to look or feel under the driver's seat? No way, Jose. I have my seat up as high as it will go and maybe a three year old child could feel and look under there, not me. If I can't see or get under there then I doubt if a mechanic could do so and would have to charge prevailing labor rates. So much for theory vs practice. I still maintain that we should spend the winter months with fwatson in Florida. All agreed, say aye. fairwood.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Mazda Mania Chat
    Tuesday nights - 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET.
  • heybradyheybrady Member Posts: 75
    I did notice that the orange light goes on when I turn on the seat heaters. So I guess fuses can be ruled out. I am thinking it is most likely a connection that came apart under the seat. Anyone know what exactly to look for under there? Must be a dozen different wires hanging around.
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    heybrady: How did you manage to get down and look under the seat? I doubt if the seat heaters are very effective. It is a 20 amp fuse protecting the heater system. The voltage is 12 volts. The current draw by the heater coil(s) is less than 20 amperes or the fuse would blow almost every use. Let's assume the worst case, 19 amperes at 12 volts = 228 watts. That is not enough heat to warm anything! and it is likely less than 19 amps - more like 15 which is 180 watts. Just like my old Volvo with leather seats, totally useless. The only other car in our family that had heated seats was my wife's 1985 Audi 5000. The heat was more than adequate. I checked my 2000 MM S again yesterday without the heater switch off and the heat from under my tail was strictly body heat, same exactly as earlier that day with switch on.
    fairwood
  • heybradyheybrady Member Posts: 75
    Fairwood. I have used the seat heaters a couple of times, but it was last spring on the occasional cold day. I thought they worked pretty good. Nice and toasty within 5 minutes or so. I had to kneel on the ground and bend my neck like a giraffe to see under there. Dont know if there is any way I can fit my hands though. Will try it sometime today.
    Brady
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    AUGHHH!!! Outside temperature was about 50F and I drove about 4 miles to a friend's house, stayed about 45 minutes, started my 2000 MM S with 38,000 miles on the clock and it ran rough as h*ll, as though only 3 cylinders were firing and the motor was tumbling, shaking the car a bit. That settled down within 10 seconds or less and of course that bane of all Mazda owners - the Check Engine Light - flashed for a few seconds then stayed on steadily.
    Car ran normally, rpm's normal, really took off when gas pushed hard, etc. Drove 4 miles home, turned engine off, then re started and light came on again. Let it cool for 3 or 4 hours and went out and of course light came on again. I have always used premium gas, currently about 3/4 tank used with a bottle of injector cleaner put in at time of fill up. This was a preventative measure, not a necessary thing. I did this once before at around 34,000 miles.
    If I am to believe other posts here and on other Mazda help sites then it is the 02 sensor or sensors (there are 4 of them I believe), or several other mysterious computerized sensors.
    I have always turned my gas cap at least 4 turns on every car I have owned over the past 20 years or more and it is not the gas cap being loose. Yesterday I did top up the coolant reservoir with about 10 oz. of water and the system hissed when I opened the cap. The car had been sitting overnight so was cold. That would indicate that the gasket is in good condition and the system is well sealed to hold the positive pressure that long. If I am to believe many other posts here then the light should go off in a day or two. Then it will come on again, then off again, the....... well you get the idea. I do have extended warranty which covers most things including the timing belt. As I have stated in previous posts, this is the first car in years that I can't wait to get in and just go. It is also the first car I have owned in close to 50 years that scares the h*ll out of me for all the electronic sensors that seem to go belly up at the drop of a hat. Is the bar open yet?? fairwood
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    I am surprised that no one has been here since the 4th (now the 6th). Anyway, after 6 or 7 local trips last few days the light finally went out. Thinking back on it I believe what happened was this: Just as the motor was catching I might have let go of the key just a tad too soon (this has happened to us all at one time or another I am sure)and the engine tumbled a bit but did catch. This may have caused a slight misfire and the O2 sensors are very sensitive to such matters and after a number of starts with no further problems the computer clears itself. It may retain the code or may clear it out. No matter, it looks like I can breathe again and stop sitting on the edge of the seat. What is the procedure or whatever to join in tomorrow's open line at 9pm eastern time? Hello - anyone there? fairwood
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Thanks for asking, fairwood, I was going to post this anyway:

    The weekly Mazda chat returns as "Mazda Mania" tomorrow night at 9pm EDT/6 pm PDT!

    Click on this link at that time: /direct/view/.ef1b553

    (The link can also be accessed from the Town Hall Welcome page, BTW - just scroll down looking on the right for the chat icon. The Mazda Mazia Chat will have its own icon soon.)

    Hope to see everyone there!

    :-)
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    As far as your ck engine light is concerned, it seems to be a bugaboo in all brands. It even came on intermittently in my Oldsmobile when the brake fluid was low. Go figure that one. And it seems that it usually has little significance except for pollution control.

    By the way, your inference the Mazda electronic sensors "seem to go belly up at the drop of a hat", isn't borne out by anything else I have seen. I believe they are just doing the job that our governments require. I read on the BMW and other sites of the same problems with ck engine lights.
  • fairwoodfairwood Member Posts: 91
    I had the opportunity today to compare my Canadian Mazda Millenia owner's manual for 2000 with the American version. Some interesting little tidbits and differences, including the pollution control requirements in each country. Of special note here is that it states the Check Engine Light can be triggered by a blown fuse in the "cabin" as they call it. So you blow a fuse for the sunroof tilt or something that you might seldom if ever use and be plagued by the engine light being on but the car running in top notch condition. We have a number of after market auto parts outlets but none that I know of have the free code readouts like you have (Pep Boys etc). From what I have read here and on other sites the Mazda dealers charge up to $70 (U.S. dollars) just to take a code reading. Someone has to pay for all that computerized equipment, but all at once? fairwood
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Mazda uses OBDII which can be read out by any auto repair shop. The connector is required to be accessible on all of them, so I don't see why it would cost more to check a Mazda than Ford. My Chevy/Olds dealer charged me $55 to read out my '95 Olds 88. The part I remain confused on is whether all codes are stored now, or if the light has to be on when you go to the shop.
  • steevo2steevo2 Member Posts: 33
    97 Mill-S. 79K miles. Check engine light on. AutoZone checked the codes and got errors on 2 O2 sensors, MAF sensor and #6 cylinder misfire. I read comments by a Mazda mechanic on another forum that 80% of the O2 sensors that he replaced were not bad. Since I've been using the 87 octane for a few tank fulls I'm wondering if I might have just 'gunked up' something. Maybe a bottle of Techron and back to the premium gas will clear things up ... or is that just wishful thinking? I'm going to try it anyway and report back. Stay tuned...
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