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Mazda Millenia

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Comments

  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    The light doesn't have to be on for them to read the code, it is in memory.

    My light went off on the way to the dealer and it didn't cause any problem with diagnosis.
  • weafrogweafrog Member Posts: 7
    Hi all, bought a 95 S at auction yesterday and needs a lot of attention. Can you all help me? First I need owner's and repair manuals, this car had tons of milage (188K)and bought it for a first car for my son. Car seemed ok at first, motor sounded fine, but after driving it for 30 or so miles on the trip home noticed that I could not full throttle it from a dead stop, it would bog totally, it also bogs when you kickdown into a passing mode, but not as severly. I felt I had made a big mistake, but price was right. I am an old 929 owner and my son loved that car, and he wanted this one. There is also some kind of slow coolant leak coming from just under the front intake. Want to try and get this right, I was overwhelmed at the sight when I pooped the hood! QUite a plumbing job! My e-mail is brex4u@aol.com if any of you guys want to contact my directly. Thanks
    Barry Rex
    Poquoson Va
  • tig2002tig2002 Member Posts: 81
    The CEL came back on yesterday. I went to AutoZone for code reading and it showed "knock sensor" failure, and I kept my appointment with dealer. May be it is not necessary to post all my experience with CEL here, but I think it is good for everyone to know that AutoZone has a nice equipment that reads the codes. Whenever you have CEL on, go to AutoZone and they will tell you exactly what is causing it - for free! The knock sensor is $99 at AutoZone, but I will have the sensor replaced for free - my '02 MM is still under warranty.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    I think that I would take the car in and have someone do a complete once over and then let them give you a laundry list of everything wrong with it. Whom ever you take it to make sure they write down all of the code numbers for what ever problems you may have. I think that right now there is too much guess work into what the problems may be. So take it to someone you can trust.

    Saxon2nxs I thought there was already another place for your discussion that was started last year. If I am not mistaken it was archived and the end result was that it was agreed that everybody agreed to disagree. I thought that Fwatson started that heading. So why don't you go look for that heading again or bring it back if you want to talk about that again.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    To find your owners manaul you might want to try ebay or maybe even a salvage yard. As you had said when you opened the hood there is a lot of plumbing in there. I would not consider, if I was you, looking for the repair manual because you probable will not be able to do a lot of work on this car at home. But if you want one a dealer will sell it to you for about $100.

    Have you looked at changeing the air filter, adding a fuel injection cleaner, replaceing the fuel filter (which is in the trunk, just lift up the pad and you will see a cover), and the spark plugs to help improve performance?
  • rpdrpdrpdrpd Member Posts: 36
    You're right tuckerdog, I don't think the mirror is worth $300. I have the autodimming mirror on my 97 mountaineer, and do like it. Its another one of those minor annoyances about the millenia: no memory seats, no indicator light for the fog lights, steering wheel controls not illuminated at night, rear seats that don't fold down. All of these issues, IMO, should have been addressed in the 2001 re-do. But I did buy the car. And I do love it. And I firmly believe it is a better car and all around better bargain than any 2000/2001 es350, i30, etc. out there. As I wrote earlier, an infiniti dealer would not move off of his $18900 for a 2000 i30t with 45,000 miles. I got my 2001 MMS with 4500 miles (yes, 4500 miles) for $17,500.
  • millenia2003millenia2003 Member Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a 2002 S with the 17" chrome wheels. My wife had some debris hit the front wheel while she was driving on the freeway, and it bent the rim on the side facing the axle. Does anyone know a good source to purchase a OEM replacement rim? The cheapest on the net that I can find is around $400 remanufactured.

    Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!
  • vectorzvectorz Member Posts: 6
    Hi everyone, I'm looking at purchasing a 1996 Millenia. I was wondering how's the reliability? Consumerreports says it is horrible. Jdpowers says it is awesome. So I don't know who to trust. Where else can I go to get reliability info?
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Quote "Consumerreports says it is horrible. "

    The April 2003 CU shows "Insufficient Data" for the '96 - '97. For '98 through '00 they show a red checkmark for each year which translates to "Better than average reliability for that year". No item was worse than an all white dot, which is average. The vast majority of catagories have all red or half red dots.

    The April 2002 issue, page 55 shows an all red dot, their best rating. And in the text says "reliability has been OUTSTANDING" (my emphasis).

    How do you translate that to "horrible"?
  • vectorzvectorz Member Posts: 6
    My mistake. You're right, for 1996 it shows insufficient data. However, 1995 shows ALL BLACK all the way down, especially for 'mechanical'. A BIG FAT BLACK dot, the worst you can get, and from research, the 1995 & 1996 are identical, nothing was improved.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Another source of data is Carpoint. But where they used to show "Minimal Problems" for the Millenia engine, they now show "Moderate Problems for 95 and 96 and "Significant Problems" for 97-2001.

    For all other catagories they still show "Minimal Problems".

    BUT!!!!!!!!!!!! Here is the kicker. I checked several other models including Lexus ES300, Toyota Camry, Nissan Maxima and Honda Accord. For the engine they ALL show "Significant Problems" except Accord which shows "Moderate Problems".

    It looks to me like they suddenly dropped the ball on the engine ratings in general. I just don't see how the engines in all those great cars can be so terrible.

    But if you go there and get the ratings for the car you are interested in, click on the red box and it will tell you what the problems with that engine are. The only problem they show for 95-96 is occasional sparkplug wire failure.

    For 97-01 it reads in part:

    Quote " Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Passages, the Distributor (2.5L engine only), and the Lysholm Compressor Oil Seals (2.3L engine only). Failure of the EGR Valve Passages can cause the check engine light to illuminate. Failure of the Distributor can cause a no start or stall while driving. Failure of the Lysholm Compressor Oil Seals can cause excessive oil consumption."

    Looks like the S is causing the bad rating for the most part. With the M's major failing the distributor. That is not an engine failure IMO, but rather an electrical failure.
  • weafrogweafrog Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for your help with my request in Newbie Millenia post. The info about ECM codes from Auto Zone was appreciated. I am going over past posts as quickly as I can, but may miss some. So, pardon my repeat questions should that happen again. I ordered my owners manual through the dealer, and have scheduled a full diagnostic as soon as I have my title and plates in hand. My S came sans radio and with a shattered decorative plate arond the auto shifter. Need to find both, anybody have an idea on a good fitting radio/cd unit? Will check junk yards for both as well!
    Thanks, Weather Frog
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I think the radio is a double-din unit. A suitable replacement should be available anywhere they sell car stereo. Both the standard and Bose units that come in the MM's are outstanding. The problem is they probably cost a fortune if you could find a used one.

    You might look into aftermarket woodgrain kits for the escutcheon around the shifter.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    you can take a chance, try EBay. I found several Millenia radios there by using "Mazda Millenia Radio" for the search. The prices were very low at 45 to 60 dollars for the ones I saw.

    They also have the wood escutcheon kit for about $130, use "Mazda Millenia Wood" for the search.
  • tuckerdog1tuckerdog1 Member Posts: 37
    Weafrog, Millenia2003,

    Have you looked at E-bay? There are currently two Millenia radios up for bid ( a '97 & '01 ). Both pretty cheap ( $44 & $20 ). Item #s 245744770 & 2458223562. The '01 says it has no wire harness.

    I've also come across wheels there as well. Once in awhile as single items. Right now, there is a guy selling a full set of 4 with some whiz bang tires mounted on them & he wants a pile-o-dough. So I know that's not what you're looking for. But if you can put replacement off, a good deal may appear.

    Tuckerdog
  • vectorzvectorz Member Posts: 6
    Ok, so I dove in and purchased a 1996 Millenia w/ 107k miles. LOOKS like it was almost perfect. Well took it for a Smog Test this morning and failed! Looks like due to oxygen sensors failing and also valve gaskets. Did my research and saw that MOST people who own a 95/96 have the same problem after 60k miles! FRIGGIN LEMON. Stay away from Mazda! Especially the lemon Millenias. I went back to the owner and demanded my money back, according to the law if it doesn't pass smog, the original owner must fix it or take it back.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    But one probably poorly maintained (mechanically) car does not mean all of that make and model are lemons. All available information both in print and on the internet say your angry generalization is completly out of line and incorrect.

    Please research the facts before blatantly condemning a product based on one bad experience.
  • sdasda Member Posts: 6,977
    Geez, with 106k, items need to be replaced. That should be expected. Oxygen sensors are like spark plugs, you replace them when they wear out. The gasket problem is minor,too. With regular scheduled maintenance, I bet there are many happy miles left in that Millenia. A friend of mine has a 95 626 V6, (same 2.5 as in the M), has 170k on it. He has done regular maintenance, oil changes every 5000 mi and the car still runs and drives great.

    2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2006 Acura TL w/nav

  • vectorzvectorz Member Posts: 6
    "Please research the facts before blatantly condemning a product based on one bad experience.
    "

    You have no clue. Do a search on this millenia thread for "oxygen sensor and valve gasket" problems. You'll see plenty. Besides that, go to consumerreports.com and look up the Millenia. For the 95-97 models you'll see THE WORST ratings for 'mechanical' category. Obviously, I'm not the one who knows how to research before he speaks. Get a life.
  • dmoyerdmoyer Member Posts: 27
    This not a minor issue. In 01/01 with 70K miles this cost me $330 ($82 parts and $230 labor) at a shop I trust.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    If you actually subscribe to CU then you would know that for the '96 & '97 years there is "insufficient data" according to the 2003 annual auto issue.

    Though lets face it know matter what you drive if you do not take care of it you will have problems with it. If you are going to buy a used vehicle do not expect it to run like it just rolled off the assembly line. As far as valve cover gaskets go if you have 106k on any engine I would not be surprised if they were leaking. As engines go now days a leaking valve cover gasket is minor.

    At least Mazda is not like that other manufacturer from Japan that begins with a Mi that lied and cheated people until they were caught. I will still take Mazda over the rest of them for the biggest bang for the buck.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    You obviously didn't even bother to read what I posted DIRECTLY from Consumer Reports magazines I have in my own possession. Nor have you read Carpoint or any other reliable source of information.

    My life is doing just fine thank you.

    Try reading the contents of "#2907 of 2918 Carpoint by fwatson", it is very informative if you have an open mind.
  • vectorzvectorz Member Posts: 6
    Well all I know is I got my money back. Thank goodness. I have a 99 Mitsubishi Galant with over 135,000 and I've never had an issue with it. I also bought a used Dodge Durango and now I've put 120,000 miles and it still runs perfect. So you can defend your vehicle all you want. A lemon is a lemon, and apparently it has nothing to do w/ a way someone drives. Oxygen sensors aren't a mechanical item, my friend. It's a sensor. And if you researched it, it's a COMMON problem that almost all Millenium owners of the 95-97 period have had. End of discussion. I got rid of my lemon, too bad you're stuck w/ yours.
  • tig2002tig2002 Member Posts: 81
    First of all, it seems that you do not really understand what lemon means. If you buy a car with 107K miles and it does not pass emission and safety tests, it doesn't mean that you got a lemon. Let me know if you need explanation of what lemon really means.

    Second: It is possible that oil on your "Millenium" has been changed only once, and right before you bought it. Did you check for any records of maintenance of that car? Buying a car with 107K miles from unknown source is worse than putting the same amount of money in Power Ball lottery. I can tell you tons of stories when people bought BMW's, Lexus', Honda's and other highly recommended crap, not to mention Mitsubishi Gallant, and got screwed. At the same time I know people that have 170K+ miles on their Millenia's and went through nothing but oil change, timing belt and tire replacement.

    Third: Most of us are stuck with our Millenia's because this is the best car we ever owned. Too bad you had no luck with yours, so now you are participating in wrong forum, because no one will agree with you here that "Millenium" is worse than Mitsubishi Gallant (I owned that junk in the past). You may switch to Dodge Durango or Mitsubishi Gallant forums and be surprised that no one had a problem with gaskets or sensors.

    And finally: No matter what you buy, computer, TV, car or boat, any purchase is a lottery: Dell or eMachines, Sony or Zenith, Mercedes or Mitsubishi. You can have perfectly running Tatung computer monitor while your Lexus RX300 gives you nothing but headaches.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hang on just a minute - you came here on 2/3 asking if you should buy this vehicle and then you said that CR rated it poorly. Then on 2/4 you reported that you bought it and because it couldn't be smogged, it is a lemon. Okay. You say you got your money back - seems to me that makes no harm, no foul. But then you went on to say that all 95-96 Millenias (or was it all period?) are lemons.

    It can never be that every single vehicle in a particular MY of any given car is a lemon. It's a shame that yours did not work out for you, but the reality is that there are lots of folks here who are very happy with their Millenias.

    Attacking their vehicles - or them! - serves no purpose.

    We wish you well. Perhaps you'd like to drop by a Durango discussion? Check out the Make/Model and the Keyword search features on the left side of the page. I see you've already found our Galant discussion and the search will help you find all kinds of other interesting topics here - hope to see you around!
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Quote "You have no clue. Do a search on this millenia thread for "oxygen sensor and valve gasket" problems. You'll see plenty. "

    I just did. Here is the result.

    " Search Results

     
    Search Within: Discussion Titles Message Text
    • Advanced Search
    • Search Help
    Common word "and" ignored -- words are ANDed by default.

    Your search - oxygen sensor and valve gasket - matched no results.

       - Check that your keywords are spelled correctly.
       - Try using fewer keywords.
       - Try less specific keywords.
       - Try different keywords."
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Okay, as I was trying to say, it's time to drop this and move on.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    How did every thing go at the dealership?
  • tig2002tig2002 Member Posts: 81
    The dealer diagnosed the problem and got the same result as was provided by AutoZone: bad knock sensor. They replaced the knock sensor and cleared the codes. The car is running with no problems so far. I did notice a much better gas mileage after replacing the knock sensor.

    I liked the service provided by local D. Dahle Mazda: no charge for repair (under warranty), quick service and free rental car from Advantage Rental.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Sounds like an exact rerun of my experience. I did have to remind Lakeland Mazda of the loaner car provision though. She disputed it at first until I provided the paperwork.

    And I didn't experience any noticable fuel economy improvement.
  • tig2002tig2002 Member Posts: 81
    To be more specific, fuel economy has not improved after replacing the knock sensor. I noticed worse gas mileage about week before the CEL came on, and fuel economy came back to normal after replacing the knock sensor.
  • phild_masonphild_mason Member Posts: 99
    I have a '01 P and would like to upgrade to the CD changer. Has anyone done this? It looks like a pretty easy process once you get the dash off.

    Any experiences or suggestions are appreciated.

    PS - Do the 626 changers fit? there are some reasonable on e-bay?
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    If this is a double din unit, and I think it is, you need to get a tool that inserts into small holes on the front of the unit to release it for removal. If the wiring is all there for it, it should be an easy trade out.

    http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.gsp?product_id=870835&- cat=4429&type=19&dept=3944&path=0%3A3944%3A3947%3A442- 9
  • phild_masonphild_mason Member Posts: 99
    excuse my ignorance, but are saying it can be released without removing the entire center console cover or were you assuming that?

    One thing that is nice about the Mill is the lack of visible fasteners, but that also makes it a bit more of a challenge to take apart without breaking a clip or something.

    btw-thanks for the link to the tool.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    This

    Quote: "It looks like a pretty easy process once you get the dash off. "

    lead me to believe you had already figured out how to remove the escutcheon. I referred only to the sound unit itself as being a din unit and requiring the special tool. I have not attempted to remove the escutcheon and don't plan to. But I have removed din type sound units and you can easily cause damage if you try to remove one without that tool.

    Aftermarket woodgrain kits are sold for Millenias, so it must be relatively easy to remove the trim. It is most likely snapped into place. The underdash cover below the glovebox is held in place with snaps plus I think one wingnut, and simply pulls down to remove.
  • grm0331grm0331 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 MM Base. Bought it new. Had a few trouble free years, but now that the mileage is getting up there "75K" Problems are arising.

    I've always had the thump sound when going over minor bumps or going into a driveway, Always struggeled with the Engine light, now its on full time. (I gave up on it). I spent $600 on the timing belt and brakes. Which is ok, because I did have 75K of trouble free miles on it.

    Now though, the heater won't heat up until I'm 10-15 minutes into my commute. Good thing I have the heated seats. At least my tush is warm. The defroster is useless during this time as well.

    Anybody else experiencing this?
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I have no experience with that with my MM. OTOH mine is almost new.

    But it sounds like a good possibility of a partially clogged heater core, or possibly the thermostat. If your temperature gauge is taking a long time to reach normal, the latter would be more likely.

    I would think you are due for a cooling system cleaning if you have not had it done in 75000 miles.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    Check your coolant level first. If it is just below minimum, it won't get to the heater core for a while. Top it off and see if the heat comes on sooner. Then, of course, watch the coolant level - if it drops you obviuosly have a problem with the cooling system. Hope this helps,
    Tomek
  • jllindyjllindy Member Posts: 1
    Hello every one I am a first timer and would like some secondary opinions here. I have an 02 Millenia S which I bought new for my wife 4 days after our best friends traded in there 96 "S" for a new 2002 "S". From the start we have had rattles and check engine light problems (3 sensors). Rattles that kept re-occuring or that the dealership "couldn't duplicate". They replaced speakers added foam replaced panels...but the rattles keep popping up. We also dealt with a "clunk" along with a shimmy or vibration at speeds over 60mph in the rear that has been looked at at least six times by two different dealerships...finaly after the car has 45,000 miles they tell me that the rear shock is bad. New shock...car still vibrates and shimmys...the dealership tells me that i have 3 bent rims? I'm asking why...I'm told that it's common...? I think that maybe the shock had something to do with it or maybe even defective wheels..I'm not going to accept that manufactures don't have to warrany an item that can't handle everyday driving. I could understand if it were just one rim but 3, lets get real. Hey here is an idea maybe the rims have been bent since day one and that is the reason for all of the rattle. Oh yeah and factory tires that are SHOT after 30,000 miles of interstate driving...that's not acceptable.

    My friends who have the same car wit about the same mileage (45,000-50,000) have said as well that their 1996 Millenia was twice the car. What gives...the few miles this car actually ran good WE LOVE IT! We honestly don't know what we are going to buy next, but after dealing with Mazda service you can be sure that it won't be a mazda.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I'd take it to an independent shop for the purpose of having it checked for collision damage. There is no logical way to have all that damage otherwise unless you run it hard over badly potholed roads, which you have not indicated.

    If you were sold a wreck as new, you can take legal action against the dealer who sold it to you.

    Wheels don't bend themselves, and MM's are usually extremely rattle free.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    I have to agree with fwatson on this. I have an '02 S, grant it I do not have as many miles on mine, and I have not heard one rattle out of mine. If you want too you can go to carfax.com and they will give you one free check, or so they say, and you can see if it has been in an accident.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    My 01'S with about 37K miles has no rattles at all. Highway ride is excellent & quiet (just came back from 180 mile trip today, the thing FLIES... and gets great mileage on the highway, too).
    I think you should try different dealer.
    Good luck.
    T
  • tig2002tig2002 Member Posts: 81
    I agree with the above opinions: it is possible that the car has been in an accident (especially rear end). I had a few cars with rebuilt titles in the past, and I know how annoying the rattling can be on wrecked cars. One of my cars with "rebuilt title" had weird rattling, and no auto mechanic or body shop specialist was able to determine the cause of the rattling. I believe that wrecked cars may have some body damages that are absolutely invisible to auto mechanics. I do not want to disappoint you, but sometimes some dealers go through all kinds of steps to clean an accident history. I recommend you to take the car to body shop and ask them to check for any suspicious looks of body parts. Also go through complete history of that particular car, and if you find any proof that the car has been in an accident - return it to the dealer for full refund, or he can be in a deep trouble. Unfortunately there are some cases when dealers buy wrecked (even new, damaged during transportation) cars, repair and resell them. Legally they should notify the buyer that the car has been wrecked and repaired, sometimes even provide a written disclosure.
  • heybradyheybrady Member Posts: 75
    Just turned over 60k today. Anyone know what maintenance NEEDS to be done at 60k by a mechanic? Anything else I will just do on my own. I know the timing belt is good to 105k, so that isn't a worry. Also, I know some of you have had the climate control blower fan bearing act up. Is this something I can do on my own or does it require too much "digging" thru the engine compartment?
  • dominick33dominick33 Member Posts: 14
    I also had a problem with blower noise in my car (01P)and I was able to get rid of it by removing the cabin filters located under the dash passenger side. Remove the plastic kick panel cover, un screw a 13mm nut to remove the filters. Un plug motor connector next to the filters (it is the circular thing to the right). Then removing the fan motor and blower by unscrewing three phillips screws at the bottom of the motor . The motor just slides down and out. There was a built up collection of leaf particles and pine needles in the blower fan blades. After cleaning the fan and blowing out the filters with compressed air all was as quiet as new.
  • heybradyheybrady Member Posts: 75
    Went in over the weekend to have the oil changed and inspect for anything obvious that needed to be done at 60k. The serpentine belt was cracked and the transmission fluid was getting dirty. Had them replace the belt and flush the fluid. It was about 80 bucks for each. I replaced the air filter myself also. Alignment was also off, but that is expected driving in Cleveland in the winter. Potholes the size of Texas all over the place. Total bill for all was just over 200 bucks. Shocking when I went in hoping for a nice 12.99 oil change. All said, the car is running great and no real problems up until now except for a bad wheel bearing.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    I would assume that you are going to have a mechanic change your spark plugs? Or do you feel brave enough to have a go at it yourself? I thought that you said you have an S. If I am mistaken and you have a P then the spark plugs are no big deal. By the way are you going to change your own fuel filter?
  • heybradyheybrady Member Posts: 75
    I have a P model. Work last week was done at a tire place, figured they couldnt mess up the serpentine and tranny flush. Still I dont think I am going to fool around with the spark plugs and fuel filter. I am going to take it to a reliable machanic for the tune up, spark plugs, etc. The stupid CEL came on again today. Really rough idle, rpm's drop to about 500. Feels like it isnt getting enough gas. Happened last week but cleared the same day. Going to go to AutoZone today to see if they can give me the code. Maybe this is related to a fuel filter, maybe not. Also, noticed today that when starting up in the morning in the cold, the fist maybe minute of driving I got a horrific high pitched squeal when I hit the gas. Not sure what this is. Could it be related to the tranny flush? Getting real fed up right now. Any ideas from you guys?
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Quote "Also, noticed today that when starting up in the morning in the cold, the fist maybe minute of driving I got a horrific high pitched squeal when I hit the gas.

    Hard to say without hearing it, but it sounds more like the belt.
  • heybradyheybrady Member Posts: 75
    Went to AutoZone. They found code P1409 on their machine. Anyone have a list of what this code means? Thanks.
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