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Check it out, you never know!!
"As an afterthought, the Mazda tech says, oh by the way, your battery is weak at only 375 amps and Mazda recommends 575.
I did a little research and found that the Millenia can set an O2 code (or others) when there is low battery output. I hope this is true. I replaced the battery today. The check engine light is out. Mazda tech said if O2 sensor is bad it should reset the code in 'a few' starts.
Better to replace a battery than an O2 sensor and the catalytic converter. I'm betting that the O2 sensor is OK since I've seen quotes from some Mazda techs that a high percentage of the O2 sensors that they replace are actually good. Watch this space for results of my theory."
If you guys have the code numbers on your read outs I will look them up in the '02 service manual. Though I have found that some of these codes do not tend to always match up with older models. I have also seen in other posts here that a low battery charge can create problems with sensor lights going on.
That's On-Board Diagnostics, Second Generation. Every vehicle sold in North America from the 1996 model year onward must have an onboard computer and suitable sensors to detect operating conditions that might indicate higher than normal pollutant emissions. Under certain conditions a sensor will detect a condition like this and turn on the "check engine light" (CEL).
Statistics have shown that over ninety percent of check engine light instances are caused by malfunctioning sensors or very transient conditions that happen for unknown reasons. The light might be on, and the condition that occurred for an instant is now gone. We have, folks, a system that is very unreliable in detecting what it was designed to do. A gift of the EPA Clean Air Act, 1990.
The check engine light does not usually indicate a severe problem with your car. It says that "your car may (or may not) be operating in a way that results in higher emission levels". And even worse, some operating conditions may be damaging your vehicle (for example overheating) and the check engine light will not be illuminated because the emissions remain below the threshold.
Know this about the codes.
1/ In some cases a sensor will momentarily indicate a problem. For some types of input, that condition will set a code but not illuminate the light. These are called "pending codes". After a number of reoccurrences, the light will illuminate and stay on. So, it is possible that your vehicle has codes set, but the number of reoccurrences are not high enough to illuminate the light.
2/ In some cases the light will be extinguished after a number of vehicle restarts without a reoccurrence of the condition that set the code in the first place. The code remains in memory after the light goes out for a number of warm-up cycles (usually 40) and is then erased.
3/ Some codes set the light on and the light will never be extinguished regardless of the presence or absence of the original condition.
4/ In my opinion, knowledgeable Millenia owners should purchase an OBD-II code scanner and learn to use it. Plug in, obtain the code(s), write them down and then clear them. I bought an Actron CP9135 (check ebay). A hundred bucks will save useless diagnostic charges and a lot of wasted time.
5/ Millenias have a known problem with overly sensitive rear oxygen sensors. This is covered in Technical Service Bulletin 01-003/01. This shows that codes P0420, P0421, P0430 and P0431 can be caused by this known problem.
6/ Silly things like a slightly loose gas cap, very slight gas impurities, throttle transitions, bad weather, phase of the moon and many other things can cause the light to illuminate. Just turn the thing off and see what happens. If it relights again and again, then deal with it with your favorite mechanic.
If you are reporting your check engine light in this forum, do us all a favor and get the code read. We can't offer much advice without that!
Auto Zone pulled the following codes:
PO421- Warm-up Catalizst Efficienty Below Threshold
PO301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire
Mazda pulled the following codes:
PO301
PO421
PO431
PO455
My friend was having the same problem with his Mazda Mill, he took it to the shop and they gave him a tune-up, replaced Knock sensor, and battery. So, I'm not sure what to do.
Also, I have never recieved an o2 sensor or knock sensor code reading. So should I just get another tuneup or have one of these sensor replaced. I recieved a tuneup about 30000 miles ago.
For the P0301 I would replace the plugs, then the plug wires.
P0431 again points at a faulty catalytic converter.
P0455 point to a major leak in the EVAP (emissions control) system. Bad gas cap, or gas cap not on, or another break in the EVAP system.
My guess is that you have two problems. The first is a leak in the EVAP system which caused the system to run lean, which in turn caused the catalytic converter to fail.
Check odb-codes.com for more info.
I would also find a mechanic that will address what the car's computer is pointing to, not just selling you a tune up, battery and knock sensor that may or maynot be a fix to the problem.
1. On the 301, misfire in cylinder 1, you might want to check to make sure that the fuel injector does not have a problem and that the wiring harness to it is not damaged.
2. 421 and 431, warm-up catalyst system, one is the right hand and the other is the left hand. Check that your front HO2S is not malfunctioning or that your front and rear HO2S are not loose.
3. 455, evaporative emission control system leak detected, check to see that your EVAP hose is not damaged or loose.
These are some other possible items to look at from what has already been mentioned, but this is only a partial list of what could be wrong.
By the way Miller engine has an engine designation of "KJ" the standard engine has a "KL" designation.
I mentioned about my Knock sensor and was told my 2000 MM S M Edition with the Supercharge engine DID NOT have a knock sensor in it. Is this correct? PLEASE HELP ME
Good luck.
P.S. now you know why I got rid of my '95 "L"
Nice car, but expensive to repair.
Just finished talking to Mazda about parts a couple of minutes ago. They quoted $635.61 for front rotors and front pads, both being Mazda brand. For Mazda made back pads only, no rotors, they quoted $312.94. In both instances, they also quoted "value" parts that seem nothing like a value. For front rotors and pads, the vaule price (not made by Mazda) was $551.97. For value back pads only, the price was $234.94. (All of these price being rediculous IMO).
Of course after hearing these prices, I'm definately not gonna be purchasing anything from Mazda. What do you guys think I should do, swallow the price and purchase Mazda parts or --more than likely buy some after market brand?If aftermarket, what brand, regular rotors or drilled, and what type of pads, regular or ceramic (might as well go for the best products).
Being that I just bought this car used in December 2003, with a 6 month or 6,000 mile warranty (Toyota Dealer), just wondering if Mazda has a warranty that would cover the service needed even if the car is under their original warranty, which I think is 50K.
I'm glad i went to the dealer - they did a good job and I should be all set for another 44K miles.
If you don't do the work yourself, then you pay what mechanics charge. When you drive a "luxury" car then you pay the price.
Try this link: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/generic/p0421.php
It points to either the cat or a bad O2 sensor that will be downstream of the catalytic converter.
I'd reset the computer and see if it comes back.
If it is the catalytic converter wouldn't it be covered under the emissions warranty - 80,000 miles or something like that? Check your owner's manual.
good luck
You might try finding a used one from a junk yard.
any ideas before I look for an answer from my local Mazda dealer.
My question is this, if one were to use the Auto Climate Control function during the winter, it says the a/c is on. Now I know it is on to prevent the windows from fogging up, but is the compressor still engaged? If so, wouldnt that kill gas mileage if the a/c is on all the time, especially in the winter when gas mileage generally drops anyways?
Heat and A/C don't run at the same time unless something is malfunctioning.
A millenia service advisory says that the rear oxygen sensors are faulty, and that they should be replaced if these codes persist. I don't think that once every couple months is persistant, so I just turn the light off.
Folks, persistent means replace the sensors, don't start replacing cats, coils or anything else. Buy yourselve a scanner and turn the stupid light off yourself initially.
I’m thinking of getting satellite radio (Sirius) and would like to avoid the FM transmitter hook-up (I don’t believe the sound will be as good quality as aux connection).
The alarm on your car should set when you lock the doors.
Note that the car has a separate set of (tiny) pads for the parking brake. They can wear out quickly. If the parking brake is "weak" after setting it, this will explain it. Hasn't been a problem on my wife's 99S.
Hope that helps.
The difference between the $21500 I gave for mine and the current "retail" price of $14815 is $6685. That is a depreciation of $1671.25 per year. Not bad IMO. And yes, I know I would not get retail for it. But I am comparing the purchase price to the purchase price, new to 4 years old. And I have not had to spend one penny on repair to the MMP in that time. Something that is far from true for any other car I have ever owned.
BTW, KBB gives a dealer retail of $8310 on a "98, so be happy with your good buy as I was with mine.
---------------------------------------
Retail Value: $14,815
Engine: V6 2.5 Liter
Trans: Automatic
Drive: Front Wheel Drive
Mileage: 15,156
Equipment:
Air Conditioning
Power Steering
Power Windows
Power Door Locks
Tilt Wheel
Cruise Control
AM/FM Stereo
Cassette
Single Compact Disc
Dual Front Air Bags
Front Side Air Bags
ABS (4-Wheel)
Leather
Dual Power Seats
Moon Roof
Alloy Wheels
On my 2000s, a light glows high on the left of the dash for a few seconds when you lock the car with the remote.
http://www.kw.igs.net/~bradley/IMG_0811.JPG
And, what did it cost to have the wheels recoated? I have been considering new coated (I hate chrome, just my preference) wheels from American Racing at 4 for $320 on sale because it would give me a new look as well as getting rid of the "crack". Mazda is way too proud of a replacement to even consider buying an OEM from them. And I don't trust recycled wheels when they might also have a hidden problem. Thanks.
The flaking was all over, along the spokes and around the holes. I wish now that I had taken some pictures.
Which American racing wheels were you looking at?
Option 2: If you have no warrenty at all, and any problem is yours the instant you drove off the lot, then I would turn the light off and see what happens. If it repeatedly re-lights, then you will have to have the problem fixed. I'll bet it's showing P042x or P043x which are known sensor problems and were fixed under warranty.
Then again, the OBDII system on a Millenia is so flakey, I've heard of people that put a piece of tape over the light and drive it perfectly fine for years. It should be a Mazda option.
Watch your gas mileage - it should run 23-26 miles per US gallon consistently.
I've had a 2000s for exactly one year now. I bought a code scanner and I've turned off the light (P0421) exactly three times since I got the car.