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Mazda Millenia

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Comments

  • dewwdeww Member Posts: 12
    Can you please tell me if changing my plugs will stop my engine light from coming on?
  • mazdafreakmazdafreak Member Posts: 27
    Hey deww i found this on a previous post.
    Check it out, you never know!!
    "As an afterthought, the Mazda tech says, oh by the way, your battery is weak at only 375 amps and Mazda recommends 575.

    I did a little research and found that the Millenia can set an O2 code (or others) when there is low battery output. I hope this is true. I replaced the battery today. The check engine light is out. Mazda tech said if O2 sensor is bad it should reset the code in 'a few' starts.

    Better to replace a battery than an O2 sensor and the catalytic converter. I'm betting that the O2 sensor is OK since I've seen quotes from some Mazda techs that a high percentage of the O2 sensors that they replace are actually good. Watch this space for results of my theory."
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    I have an '02 S and I get 24 mpg in town on mine. My parents also have an '02 S and they tend to get 18 - 20 mpg's. The only difference in our driving style is that I tend not to jump on the accelerator like my mom does at times. Plus my mom tends to take a lot of very short trips to the store which I do not do.

    If you guys have the code numbers on your read outs I will look them up in the '02 service manual. Though I have found that some of these codes do not tend to always match up with older models. I have also seen in other posts here that a low battery charge can create problems with sensor lights going on.
  • wwbradleywwbradley Member Posts: 25
    A Quick Guide to OBDII Codes

    That's On-Board Diagnostics, Second Generation. Every vehicle sold in North America from the 1996 model year onward must have an onboard computer and suitable sensors to detect operating conditions that might indicate higher than normal pollutant emissions. Under certain conditions a sensor will detect a condition like this and turn on the "check engine light" (CEL).

    Statistics have shown that over ninety percent of check engine light instances are caused by malfunctioning sensors or very transient conditions that happen for unknown reasons. The light might be on, and the condition that occurred for an instant is now gone. We have, folks, a system that is very unreliable in detecting what it was designed to do. A gift of the EPA Clean Air Act, 1990.

    The check engine light does not usually indicate a severe problem with your car. It says that "your car may (or may not) be operating in a way that results in higher emission levels". And even worse, some operating conditions may be damaging your vehicle (for example overheating) and the check engine light will not be illuminated because the emissions remain below the threshold.

    Know this about the codes.

    1/ In some cases a sensor will momentarily indicate a problem. For some types of input, that condition will set a code but not illuminate the light. These are called "pending codes". After a number of reoccurrences, the light will illuminate and stay on. So, it is possible that your vehicle has codes set, but the number of reoccurrences are not high enough to illuminate the light.

    2/ In some cases the light will be extinguished after a number of vehicle restarts without a reoccurrence of the condition that set the code in the first place. The code remains in memory after the light goes out for a number of warm-up cycles (usually 40) and is then erased.

    3/ Some codes set the light on and the light will never be extinguished regardless of the presence or absence of the original condition.

    4/ In my opinion, knowledgeable Millenia owners should purchase an OBD-II code scanner and learn to use it. Plug in, obtain the code(s), write them down and then clear them. I bought an Actron CP9135 (check ebay). A hundred bucks will save useless diagnostic charges and a lot of wasted time.

    5/ Millenias have a known problem with overly sensitive rear oxygen sensors. This is covered in Technical Service Bulletin 01-003/01. This shows that codes P0420, P0421, P0430 and P0431 can be caused by this known problem.

    6/ Silly things like a slightly loose gas cap, very slight gas impurities, throttle transitions, bad weather, phase of the moon and many other things can cause the light to illuminate. Just turn the thing off and see what happens. If it relights again and again, then deal with it with your favorite mechanic.

    If you are reporting your check engine light in this forum, do us all a favor and get the code read. We can't offer much advice without that!
  • dewwdeww Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for all of your help. However, i engine light started coming on about 6 monthes ago. I had 2 sensors replaced already (Not the Knock Sensor). I've had a tune-up. I just replaced my battery. So, I'm not sure what is wrong now. However, I have notice the car is starting to make knocking sound, like it wants to cut off when I'm at a stand still. The Code that were pulled are:

    Auto Zone pulled the following codes:
    PO421- Warm-up Catalizst Efficienty Below Threshold
    PO301 - Cylinder 1 Misfire

    Mazda pulled the following codes:
    PO301
    PO421
    PO431
    PO455

    My friend was having the same problem with his Mazda Mill, he took it to the shop and they gave him a tune-up, replaced Knock sensor, and battery. So, I'm not sure what to do.

    Also, I have never recieved an o2 sensor or knock sensor code reading. So should I just get another tuneup or have one of these sensor replaced. I recieved a tuneup about 30000 miles ago.
  • freebirdfreebird Member Posts: 77
    One possible cause of the P0421 is that catalytic converter is failing. Check the voltage at each O2 censor - it should be steady and not fluctuate.

    For the P0301 I would replace the plugs, then the plug wires.

    P0431 again points at a faulty catalytic converter.

    P0455 point to a major leak in the EVAP (emissions control) system. Bad gas cap, or gas cap not on, or another break in the EVAP system.

    My guess is that you have two problems. The first is a leak in the EVAP system which caused the system to run lean, which in turn caused the catalytic converter to fail.

    Check odb-codes.com for more info.

    I would also find a mechanic that will address what the car's computer is pointing to, not just selling you a tune up, battery and knock sensor that may or maynot be a fix to the problem.
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    Just a few things to add to what freebird said.

    1. On the 301, misfire in cylinder 1, you might want to check to make sure that the fuel injector does not have a problem and that the wiring harness to it is not damaged.

    2. 421 and 431, warm-up catalyst system, one is the right hand and the other is the left hand. Check that your front HO2S is not malfunctioning or that your front and rear HO2S are not loose.

    3. 455, evaporative emission control system leak detected, check to see that your EVAP hose is not damaged or loose.

    These are some other possible items to look at from what has already been mentioned, but this is only a partial list of what could be wrong.

    By the way Miller engine has an engine designation of "KJ" the standard engine has a "KL" designation.
  • peabeespeabees Member Posts: 3
    I looked at a '95 Millenia last weekend. The car looked good, but since I am a very dissatisfied '94 Taurus owner, I decided to wait. How much of this car is Ford? Are the engine or tranny or their controls Ford or Ford designed? These cars seem to have a loyal following, and maybe this topic is just not discussed.
  • dewwdeww Member Posts: 12
    Just put my MM in the shop to be fixed it cost 600.00 to replace coil #1 and tuneup. I started the car and before I could get out of the door. The engine light was back on. They ran another test and now they are saying coil #3 is bad. The first test said the only thing wrong was coil #1. Now the dealers is saying I have to pay for another coil. What should I do? I don't think they know what their talking about and they are ripping my off. I'm not about to give them anymore money. Coil #3 was not broken when I took my car and and I will not pay to have it repair.

    I mentioned about my Knock sensor and was told my 2000 MM S M Edition with the Supercharge engine DID NOT have a knock sensor in it. Is this correct? PLEASE HELP ME
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    I thought that someone here had a similiar problem a year or two ago and it ended up being one of the sensors. The only other thing I can tell you is that I think that it is time that you changed places to get your car fixed. All the dealership has to do is look up in their repair manual and it states that there are knock sensors in the car. Mind you I am talking about looking in the index of the manual.
  • freebirdfreebird Member Posts: 77
    I'm sorry - I didn't realize that you were talking about a "S" model. That's out of my league. Maybe someone can answer if the coil on #3 is hard to change. Maybe you could try it yourself. I'm sure the dealer charges a lot of labor in the $600 fee.

    Good luck.

    P.S. now you know why I got rid of my '95 "L"
         Nice car, but expensive to repair.
  • ivbd85ivbd85 Member Posts: 5
    Just wondering if anyone who has had to replace their brakes bought Mazda parts or aftermarket products. At about 49,000 miles it's time for new brakes on my 2002 Millenia P. Took it in to PepBoys and I discovered that I need front rotors, front pads, and back pads.

    Just finished talking to Mazda about parts a couple of minutes ago. They quoted $635.61 for front rotors and front pads, both being Mazda brand. For Mazda made back pads only, no rotors, they quoted $312.94. In both instances, they also quoted "value" parts that seem nothing like a value. For front rotors and pads, the vaule price (not made by Mazda) was $551.97. For value back pads only, the price was $234.94. (All of these price being rediculous IMO).

    Of course after hearing these prices, I'm definately not gonna be purchasing anything from Mazda. What do you guys think I should do, swallow the price and purchase Mazda parts or --more than likely buy some after market brand?If aftermarket, what brand, regular rotors or drilled, and what type of pads, regular or ceramic (might as well go for the best products).

    Being that I just bought this car used in December 2003, with a 6 month or 6,000 mile warranty (Toyota Dealer), just wondering if Mazda has a warranty that would cover the service needed even if the car is under their original warranty, which I think is 50K.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    Those prices you were quoted sound about right ... I'm not sure about alternatives. Even if you go with somebody like Sears and cheap parts, you'll only save $200 or so (if that).. Sears quoted me $380 for front pads and rotors on wife's Chevy venture! Just front pads on my Millenia were something like $280 at the dealer (didn't need new rotors luckily).
    I'm glad i went to the dealer - they did a good job and I should be all set for another 44K miles.
  • freebirdfreebird Member Posts: 77
    I got a set of rotors off of ebay for $100. I would go with the OEM pads - seems like they are around $90. They come with all the shims and clips.

    If you don't do the work yourself, then you pay what mechanics charge. When you drive a "luxury" car then you pay the price.
  • dewwdeww Member Posts: 12
    Mazda replaced 3 coils on my MM S. I drove the car a day before the engine light came back on. This time the code reading was PO421 - Rear Catalyc Converter. They told me it was cost over 800.00. I told them I didn't have the money. He asked me if I was using premiun or unlead gas. I told him unlead. He said that was a no no. So he put some gas treatment in my tank and told me to start using premium gas. Is that going to work or should I get my catalytic converter replaced now? Please advise
  • freebirdfreebird Member Posts: 77
    The hole gets deeper and deeper, doesn't it?

    Try this link: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/generic/p0421.php

    It points to either the cat or a bad O2 sensor that will be downstream of the catalytic converter.

    I'd reset the computer and see if it comes back.

    If it is the catalytic converter wouldn't it be covered under the emissions warranty - 80,000 miles or something like that? Check your owner's manual.

    good luck
  • dewwdeww Member Posts: 12
    LOL, yes, however, I have 90000 miles on my car. I had my O2 sensor replaced already. Can I just have it cut off and put a straight pipe on it and go without the catalytic converter?
  • freebirdfreebird Member Posts: 77
    There are two O2 sensors before the cat and one "down stream" of it(if my memory is correct). Have you had one down stream replaced? If so, then I would say that the cat is the problem. You can take the cat off, but if you live in an area with emission testing, then you would never pass the test.

    You might try finding a used one from a junk yard.
  • dewwdeww Member Posts: 12
    I live in Michigan and we don't have emission testing. So i will just take it off and emilinate the problem. Thanks
  • dmoyerdmoyer Member Posts: 27
    the "malfunction indicator light" or check engine light is on indicating "a problem in the engine electrical system" per the owener's manual. no change in the car's performance, all systems appear to be working ok. only possible indication of a problem was a one time occurence of the transaxle "hold mold" being activated when I disengaged the cruise control. this happened several hundred miles ago. car has been trouble free. still runs great.

    any ideas before I look for an answer from my local Mazda dealer.
  • freebirdfreebird Member Posts: 77
    Do you have Autozone parts stores in your area? They will read the codes for you for free. My bet would be a bad "up steam" O2 sensor. But the code will tell you.
  • heybradyheybrady Member Posts: 75
    Looking for thoughts on this one.....

     

    My question is this, if one were to use the Auto Climate Control function during the winter, it says the a/c is on. Now I know it is on to prevent the windows from fogging up, but is the compressor still engaged? If so, wouldnt that kill gas mileage if the a/c is on all the time, especially in the winter when gas mileage generally drops anyways?
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Even when the weather is hot, the compressor only cycles on when needed. And yes, the compressor cycles on to use cold air for defrost.

     

    Heat and A/C don't run at the same time unless something is malfunctioning.
  • wwbradleywwbradley Member Posts: 25
    I have a 2000 S and my car turns on the check engine light every once in a while. I use my Actron code scanner to see what's up, and turn the light off. I've done this three times in the last year and the code is always P0421.

     

    A millenia service advisory says that the rear oxygen sensors are faulty, and that they should be replaced if these codes persist. I don't think that once every couple months is persistant, so I just turn the light off.

     

    Folks, persistent means replace the sensors, don't start replacing cats, coils or anything else. Buy yourselve a scanner and turn the stupid light off yourself initially.
  • tomekktomekk Member Posts: 310
    Does anybody know if Bose sound system in a 2001 Mazda Millenia S has aux input?

    I’m thinking of getting satellite radio (Sirius) and would like to avoid the FM transmitter hook-up (I don’t believe the sound will be as good quality as aux connection).
  • freebirdfreebird Member Posts: 77
    Or, if you don't want to spend $100+ on a scanner, just disconnect the battery....
  • wwbradleywwbradley Member Posts: 25
    I'm not so sure that all codes can be erased by disconnecting the battery. I'll try that just as an experiment. The nice thing about the code scanner is that it tells you the code, nice information to have when you ask people here and look on the net to see what might be the problem.
  • heybradyheybrady Member Posts: 75
    I need advice from someone familiar with car stereos. Is there a way with the standard radio in the 99P to connect an ipod or similar device thru the cd changer input? I want ot avoid using an FM modulator if at all possible. I know the radio has cd changer conrols built in.
  • sbisssbiss Member Posts: 9
    I am not aware of anything currently available, but Audiovox just announced at MacWorld this month they were coming out with an adapter which could be fitted to a CD changer - not sure if they will make one for the Millenia changer. Unfortunately, I do not have the changer (just single CD), so I run my iPod mini through a tape adapter, which looks ugly, but works great. I have stayed away from the FM transmitters as well, but there is one that is highly rated, Podfreq, by Sonnet Techologies. It is about $100, but only works with the regular iPod, not the mini.
  • sbisssbiss Member Posts: 9
    Anybody know how to adjust the emergency brake on a 2000 Millenia? My brake needs to be adjusted - other cars I have owned had adjusting nuts on the brake handle, but I want to know this for sure before I rip into the console.
  • max05max05 Member Posts: 29
    I just bought a 1998 mazda millenia and the check engine light was on. I'm being told it is an oxygen sensor.....sounds like a common problem. Since i have not yet taken delivery of the vehicle, should i be concerned as long as they replace the sensor? otherwise the car is in wonderful condition inside and out.
  • max05max05 Member Posts: 29
    I'm curious how you made out. I just bought a 1998 millenia and the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced (I have not yet taken delivery). Should i "run for the hills" or are these problems fairly minor?
  • max05max05 Member Posts: 29
    not sure if you are still checking this board, but i think your depreciation numbers are a little bit optimistic. I just bought a 1998 for under $5k with only 80k miles on it (and it was the asking price). So if your car is really worth $17.5k, you better sell it now because it is going to depreciate really fast....
  • max05max05 Member Posts: 29
    obviously april is 9 months ago so your 2000 is like a 2001 today, but just to put it in perspective, i just bought a 1998 with 80k miles for under $5k (and that was the asking price). Seems like steep depreciation to me...$16k sounds high.
  • max05max05 Member Posts: 29
    not a reply to this message but unsure how else to work this...i just bought a 98 millenia and it says an alarm is standard...but i can't seem to figure out how to set it. there is no keyless entry....does locking the doors set it automatically? Am i missing something?
  • kcm8419kcm8419 Member Posts: 121
    There is an adjusting nut on it. The repair manual says to start the car and depress the brake several times. Then turn the car off and adjust the brake. I would also check your brakes to see what kind of condition they are in.

     

    The alarm on your car should set when you lock the doors.
  • crowbarredcrowbarred Member Posts: 8
    The adjusting nut is at the base of the parking break handle. The cover of the boot has a snapit at the top and velcro closure down the side. If you have ever adjusted a parking brake, this one is really easy.

    Note that the car has a separate set of (tiny) pads for the parking brake. They can wear out quickly. If the parking brake is "weak" after setting it, this will explain it. Hasn't been a problem on my wife's 99S.

    Hope that helps.
  • heybradyheybrady Member Posts: 75
    Max, I would venture to say that the person who sold you the car has lost/not included the keyless entry remote. I am pretty sure it is standard on all Millenia models. With that being said, whenever you lock the doors, whether with remote or inside the car, the alarm becomes engaged. Check ebay for a remote if indeed it is on the car. Anyone else know if the keyless is standard on a 98? I know it was on my 99.
  • rmck46rmck46 Member Posts: 8
    00 MM Tilt wheel motor is shot.Has anyone attempted replacement?Dealer wants $400 plus to repair.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Yes, I do check in about once a week. And boy did you make me go back in time. March of last year is a long time ago, and obviously the retail or any other value has gone down in that time. Also, there is a very big difference between a 1998 and 2001 in value. So I did a little footwork for you and here is Kelly Blue Book's report on my car's retail value as of today. You can also get wholesale and private party values there if you care to.

     

    The difference between the $21500 I gave for mine and the current "retail" price of $14815 is $6685. That is a depreciation of $1671.25 per year. Not bad IMO. And yes, I know I would not get retail for it. But I am comparing the purchase price to the purchase price, new to 4 years old. And I have not had to spend one penny on repair to the MMP in that time. Something that is far from true for any other car I have ever owned.

     

    BTW, KBB gives a dealer retail of $8310 on a "98, so be happy with your good buy as I was with mine.

     

    ---------------------------------------

    Retail Value: $14,815

     

    Engine: V6 2.5 Liter

    Trans: Automatic

    Drive: Front Wheel Drive

    Mileage: 15,156

      

    Equipment:

    Air Conditioning

    Power Steering

    Power Windows

    Power Door Locks

    Tilt Wheel

    Cruise Control

    AM/FM Stereo

    Cassette

    Single Compact Disc

    Dual Front Air Bags

    Front Side Air Bags

    ABS (4-Wheel)

    Leather

    Dual Power Seats

    Moon Roof

    Alloy Wheels
  • wwbradleywwbradley Member Posts: 25
    I think the alarm is standard. It's pretty stealthy. Try this experiment. Lock the car with the remote, but stay inside. Then put the key in, or play around with the controls. You'll set the alarm off. That's how I discovered that there was an alarm system.

     

    On my 2000s, a light glows high on the left of the dash for a few seconds when you lock the car with the remote.
  • sbisssbiss Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the info - I adjusted the nut and now the brake works great - thanks for the reply!
  • wwbradleywwbradley Member Posts: 25
    The worst feature of my 2000s was the flaking paint on the wheels. I took them off, had them sandblasted and powder coated. I passed on silver and went with a gunmetal grey. Waddya think:

     

    http://www.kw.igs.net/~bradley/IMG_0811.JPG
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    A couple of questions. Did the "flaking" start in one of the lug nut recesses? I have a small place that looks like a crack at that location on the right rear wheel, and don't know if it is in the wheel or the paint. I suspect the paint, as it has been that way for a long time with no sign of vibration or other problem. I have never hit anything hard such as a pothole, and have torqued the wheels to 90 lb/ft when they were rotated. Have had no flat tire either.

     

    And, what did it cost to have the wheels recoated? I have been considering new coated (I hate chrome, just my preference) wheels from American Racing at 4 for $320 on sale because it would give me a new look as well as getting rid of the "crack". Mazda is way too proud of a replacement to even consider buying an OEM from them. And I don't trust recycled wheels when they might also have a hidden problem. Thanks.
  • wwbradleywwbradley Member Posts: 25
    The refinishing was about fifty bucks US a wheel. American Racing wheels for $320 are a huge bargain and I would snap those up instantly.

     

    The flaking was all over, along the spokes and around the holes. I wish now that I had taken some pictures.

     

    Which American racing wheels were you looking at?
  • max05max05 Member Posts: 29
    thanks for the reply...I just picked up the car today and it did not have a remote with it...the owners manual shows an alarm. Anyway, the bigger issue i have is the check engine light. It was on when i bought the car (even though it ran great) and fixing the issue (turned out to be an oxygen sensor) before delivery was part of the deal...anyway i picked up the car, immediately had it inspected for a sticker (which it passed with flying colors), including software check for "codes". I then filled up the gas tank and drove home (7 miles). As i pulled into the driveway, the check engine light went on again...some of the posts here seem to mention this as an issue....By the way, i checked the gas cap and it's on right. Should i drive it for a couple of days and see if it goes out? I have a 30 day warranty.
  • max05max05 Member Posts: 29
    I didn't realize the low milage on your car...that obviously makes a big difference. I also didn't realize they sold new for $21.5k. I thought loaded they were closer to $25k. Anyway, my car is the base model (no leather, sunroof etc..), but kelly still shows about $7,500 retail ($5,900 private party and $4,000 trade in), so i'm happy with my deal.
  • j30j30 Member Posts: 30
    My 02P has been great, except every once in a while the c.e.l. would come on but the car still seemed to act normal, last month I was out and the light came on so I headed for the dealer. Ended up being the number one knock sensor, the dealer said if I had to pay for it the cost would have been about $800. If you have a 30 day warranty I would get it in ASAP because the way cars are nowadays even something small can cost alot of money...
  • wwbradleywwbradley Member Posts: 25
    Option 1 - if they included any kind of warranty with the car, then I would take it back. A check engine light indicates either something's wrong and the car's emissions are too high (unlikely) or the system that measures that has had a failure and has indicated a false positive (much more likely). Let them sort this out.

     

    Option 2: If you have no warrenty at all, and any problem is yours the instant you drove off the lot, then I would turn the light off and see what happens. If it repeatedly re-lights, then you will have to have the problem fixed. I'll bet it's showing P042x or P043x which are known sensor problems and were fixed under warranty.

     

    Then again, the OBDII system on a Millenia is so flakey, I've heard of people that put a piece of tape over the light and drive it perfectly fine for years. It should be a Mazda option.

     

    Watch your gas mileage - it should run 23-26 miles per US gallon consistently.

     

    I've had a 2000s for exactly one year now. I bought a code scanner and I've turned off the light (P0421) exactly three times since I got the car.
  • max05max05 Member Posts: 29
    thanks for the message back...I called the dealer back today (and also put it in writing)....he said he spent $800 fixing the original problem and is sending me back to the shop that did the work....in the meantime, the light went out today, so if it does not come back when i bring it in tomorrow i'm not sure what to do...the good news is that it passed inspection and runs fine (and now the for the moment at least the light is out).....stay tuned
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