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Mazda Millenia

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Comments

  • dcamdcam Member Posts: 15
    How old is the fuel?Take a sample of it and smell it.See if it is very strong or not.Also,make sure the oil level is not overfilled.This can cause trembling as well.Hope this helps.
  • mazdafreakmazdafreak Member Posts: 27
    Anybody?
    All on vacation... :D
  • jazzyman26jazzyman26 Member Posts: 18
    I recently just purchase MM sedan 01 love the car best value for the money.I can asociates with some of the discussion about the engine light coming on and off.I took it to midas and found that the 02 sensor need replacing labor and part $300.00 Can someone explain why the transmission seem to search for gears at low speed.Will syntheic transmission fluids help,also I review on the message board that MM runs sluggish in hot weather.I took a trip to mississippi and it was hot and humid and the car ran perfect my traveling speed at time was over 90mph.Midas also due timing belt replacement for 300 dollars.I purchased the MM
    with 121,000 and owned it for 4 month not a problem basic maintainces is needed and it's about to be done.I going to have a transmission tune up perform and timing belt replacement.Do you have any suggestion about the transmission, and do you recommend a new water pump with a timing belt replacement?
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    Quote: "Can someone explain why the transmission seem to search for gears at low speed."

    That is a completely normal condition, and you will soon learn to compensate for it or just quit noticing it. There is nothing wrong with your transmission.

    My '01 MMP runs perfectly in all weather. I can't answer for the S model, but superchargers are definitely sensitive to humidity and temperature.

    If you are at 121000 miles, you are well past time for a new timing belt. And yes, definitely have the water pump replaced at the same time or you may end up paying double labor later. That is just normal preventive maintenance, although quite expensive as I understand.
  • jazzyman26jazzyman26 Member Posts: 18
    how can I get more horse power,and will it damage the engine? Can a specfic air filter help.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    If you have the 2.5 engine Google for KLZE Mazda and you might find what you are looking for.

    They have been raced especially in the Ford Probe and Mazda MX-6. It is a very tough engine.
  • jazzyman26jazzyman26 Member Posts: 18
    Thanks for the reply I have the 2.5 engine and I like about 20 to 30 more horsepower.Autozone rep mention that some spark plug can help about $25.00 per plug and what about the KLN air filter.It was mention also that a fuel stabilizer will help for better gas meilage.
  • fwatsonfwatson Member Posts: 639
    I may get an argument. But I wouldn't give $25 for a solid gold spark plug, and I don't think it will help at all. Why not pull your air cleaner out and drive it in a very clean area for a short time. I don't think that will make any difference. As a matter of fact all the things you mentioned are no more than gimmicks that you will waste your money on.

    That is all I will contribute to this discussion, except to say that if you want better performance go to a performance shop and see what they recommend.

    http://www.jeffjeske.com/
  • kherrmannkherrmann Member Posts: 10
    Still searching for the "flat spot" off idle and subtle surging when cruising at highway speeds. 99 Milli S has been in the shop for 2 (more) weeks now...still nothing to report except that it runs lean off idle. Surely someone must have fixed this issue as I'm not the only one to post it. HELP! Thx
  • jazzyman26jazzyman26 Member Posts: 18
    I'm switching from a standard transmission fluid to a synthetic blend from some of the report i"ve read it helps.I hear good review about synthetic oil(which i'm consider changing to) what about synthetic transmission fluid?
  • jazzyman26jazzyman26 Member Posts: 18
    Let's have a 100,000 miles club and discuss some problem if any on the Explorer.
    I bought the 1995 XLT from carmax 5yrs ago with 62,000 I'm currently rolling with
    158,678 miles an hasn't miss a beat.The problem fuel pump replacement at precesion tune$300.00 less than what the dealer want to charge with 1yr warranty.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Hi. We have a lot of Ford Explorer discussions where you would be welcome to pursue those throughts. Just use the Browse by Vehicle pulldown menu on the left side of the page to find them.

    We'll keep you here to talk about your Millenia, but send you to one of those to talk about your Explorer! ;)
  • jazzyman26jazzyman26 Member Posts: 18
    Here in Nashville I've done some research and very soon I will have my timing belt replace due to preventive maintainces and mileage which is 128,000.Midas price with the water pump replacement is $547.00 and I check Tireplus $600.00.This quote is for MP.This car is fun to drive especially when you hit 65 to 85 mph,and i have driven it faster than that over 90mph in hot humid weather and the car ran perfect. I wouldn't trust MS due to the supercharge issue but overall I'm happy with the MP.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    I did the timing belt, water pump and drive belts myself for about $250. in parts. '95 S model.
  • pcfigpcfig Member Posts: 13
    Hi All,
    Bought a '99 MM(93k),check engine light came on as driving home from dealer(yes,it was test driven twice,no warning lights),also fuel door would not release/open.Checked fuses,all fine.Checked alternator,battery charge--all fine.Nawing at me that this light must be related to fuel door,removed 60amp fuse for fuel door and replaced w/60amp from ignition(just to see if it would work),put fuel door fuse in ignition fuse slot,that fuse continues to work fine, light went off,fuel door opened...for a day!!Light back on,fuel door not opening.Bought new 60amp fuse,desired results attained....for a day!!Pulled fuse,re-inserted,light now off but fuel door wont open.Fuse box is clean,no sign of corrosion inside.Whats going on here??? Any help?Sounds like maybe a potential short somewhere,pulled door cover and inspected connections to release button,fine.UGHHHHHH.....hate electrical issues.
  • pcfigpcfig Member Posts: 13
    Hi,wonder if you have solved this issue?I have a '99 MMS,bought one week ago,same "electrical issue/malfunction" light came on as driving home from dealer.Also w/mine,fuel door would not open,I checked/ replaced 60amp fuse and that worked for short time(a day),light came on again,pulled and replaced fuse again and light has been off for 2days.I am thinking this fuse works itself loose and triggers the malfunction light and also disables the fuel door button.Of course,this is probably a "mystifying characteristic" of mine.Car runs great,no misses,hesitations or other indications of trouble.Let me know your results.Good luck,its the other guy you need to watch out for.......
  • jazzyman26jazzyman26 Member Posts: 18
    what state do you live that a great price"
  • onwheelonwheel Member Posts: 1
    Hi, guys,
    I just bought a 97 MML two weeks ago and went to the garage to have a emissions inspection today. The results came out as FAIL since the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is broken or not functioning" as it shown on the report.
    Then I asked the guy from Mazda service to check the code to find that there were three codes
    P0300 pcm: random misfire;
    P0325 pcm: knock sensor;
    P1170 pcm: HO2S(RH) inversion.
    Is there any one has similar experience here? I'd like to know if I should fix all the problems to pass the emission inspection? How much to fix those problems? Also, how much to fix the indicator Lamp?
    Thanks.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    That's only the parts at Advance Auto store. I did the work myself.
  • vickatvickat Member Posts: 43
    Hi everyone,
    I'm new to this discussion, recently bought MM'97 base. Check Engine light comes on, and flickering. Car runs well, though. Any suggestion, please?
    Also, car came w/out manual. Is it timing belt or chain? If belt, at what mileage it should be replaced?
    many thanks, Victor
  • hautehaute Member Posts: 1
    i have a 97 mazda millenia. the car runs fine. but when ever i hit the gas i can hear a sound (like two metal rubbing against each other). the sound is there only when the car is rolling and is only there initially, after a little while there is no sound. also while going smoothly there is no sound. the mechanic says its the brake pad.
    what could be the problem?
  • mmerchantmmerchant Member Posts: 18
    I refer to my earlier posting about the clicking/tapping noise from the front left suspension on warm days at slow speeds on all road types.

    The problem has been resolved finally upon the replacement of the middle control arm link. Earlier the lower and upper control arms, the tie rod end and the steering rack were replaced all under warranty.

    The part was replaced under warranty under the Mazda added protection plan.
  • pcfigpcfig Member Posts: 13
    Hi,PCFIG here,also have posted about the '99 MMS I bought 3wks. ago.Of course after purchase malfunction indicator light is on.Thought it was related to fuse,that was only re-setting computer each time I pulled it.Just got car back from tech check of codes.....the Bank 1 and Bank 2(??) catalytic converter efficiency codes indicate trouble in this area.Took it too an honest tech I know,he thinks it is related to supercharger,but not sure,suggest taking it to dealer for further testing.Currently waiting for reply from dealer i bought from "as is" hoping they will fix this issue.Though bought "as is",think their is a buyer protection law of 30 days....this could get nasty.I'll let you know what happens.Let me know if you solve your "malfunction light" issue.Peace,out....
  • logtraillogtrail Member Posts: 74
    the CEL went on last week on my 99 Millenia S. Shop did a diagnostic and replaced the EGR valve ; total cost about $500. (the part is expensive!) Car was fine for 2 days but yesterday the CEL went on again. Back to shop on Monday. Any advice?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    You might want to also ask in our "Check Engine" light discussion - let us know what happens.
  • swreid5swreid5 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am new to this and have searched for an answer to this post, but I have been unable to find one. Does anyone know if their is a easy or reasonable fix for this problem? I actually just bought my Mazda, love it, but would love it even more if I can get the CD to work.
  • albanymikealbanymike Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Millenia with Miller engine. I have solid P0105 error code that I need to repair so I can renew registration. I'm hoping it's simply a loose connection or some other simple problem. Can anyone tell me where the Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor, which I believe is sometimes called the boost sensor is located on this engine? Oh, by the way, the car runs great otherwise.

    Thanks

    Mike
  • chettichetti Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I bought 98 Mazda millenia S 6 months before. I am getting checking engine light on and TCS off message. On the highway, all of a sudden car is having jerk and speed goes down. I would appreciate, if you can give me suggestions to rectify this.
    Thanks
  • joshijoshi Member Posts: 1
    I am thinking of buying a 1995 Mazda Millenia (engine made in Japan btw). It has all the features and drives like a dream even after its 134K miles. But, I am not too sure about how long MMs last. Can I expect it to last me 2-3 years with proper maintenance or is it past its expected life.
  • virginiadiscovirginiadisco Member Posts: 3
    I hate electrical issues myself. I had the CEL (Check Eng. Light) come on my 99 MM @ 59k and went to the local auto place and bought an OBD II Reader for about $150. (I did this because the dealer said he would run a test on it for $85 - No Thanks) This little gem I bought told me that the problem was code P0431 -Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2). Basically this means that the catalytic converter is malfunctioning. But its not a huge problem. I used the OBD Reader I bought to turn off the CEL. Its just an idea. May not be your solution but at least if you ran the OBD you could get a clear idea of what is going on in there. Some Auto parts stores will run it for free if you dont want to purchase one.... However, the dealer charges $85 per scan - thus if you use it twice it pays its rent. Hope that helps a little.
  • virginiadiscovirginiadisco Member Posts: 3
    If you just want the 97 to pass inspection you may be able to get a local auto body shop to run a scan and turn the light off. In my state they automatically fail your vehicle if any of the yikes light are on. Some folks just try and get the light turned off so they can run it through inspection. Not sure if its a great idea in the long run.. but just a suggestion.
  • milleniiabobmilleniiabob Member Posts: 1
    I picked up my Millenia from airport park 'n fly yesterday and the
    steering wheel was stuck in the up position. It was stormy so I drove
    directly home.

    The owner's manual doesn't indicate which fuse (the horn, and
    everything else works).

    Mazda won't tell me ("take it to a dealer").

    Thanks in advance.
  • mmerchantmmerchant Member Posts: 18
    Release/Press small black button on side of steering and hopefully that should do it.
  • pcfigpcfig Member Posts: 13
    Hi and thanks for taking time to offer input.I bought a OBD myself(for same reasons as you,plus FOR ALL TO KNOW-Autozone will do this CEL for FREE!!!) a few days after posting and ironically(or typically) the exact same code is what came up,PO431@bank 1.Not knowing if this was due to Cat or sensor,i pulled the senosr(before cat,@radiator)and checked for "dust' built up inside sensor,pouring out some dust leads me to believe it is indeed the Cat.i could replace the sensor,but a new one will eventually trigger the CEL again.Luckily,here in Michigan we have no emissions testing so i will leave it as is,monitor MPG and engine performance,car runs great.Thanks again,Paul
  • kherrmannkherrmann Member Posts: 10
    Thx for all the help guys. After 7 weeks in the shop and ALL kinds of messing around, the acceleration lag (see post 3353) was due to dirty and/or malfunctioning injectors. Hope this helps someone else.

    cheers,

    Karl
  • hitechhitech Member Posts: 2
    Are you ready for a novel?

    First off my wife and I have owned 5 Mazola's since the mid 80's
    I've owned two 1986 turbo 626's.
    I do a lot of driving and after buying one of these cars new ( in 86) I decided to buy another.
    This year I got rid of one but the other is still going strong with full compression @ 478,000 Km.
    When I met my wife she decided to buy a 1988 626 and she sold it in 1999 ( it was still running fine as well).
    Neither vintage car needed any internal engine work except the timing belt!!!

    In 1999 she bought the Millennia S because she liked how her previous model ran.
    Last year I bought a 1999 Millennia S as well. I'm not a mechanic although I used to be into building hi perf cars in the 70's, so you can imagine why I built a new 1884 sq. ft. shop on our lot 10 years ago.
    I have everything a mechanic will ever need. Welders, 50 ton press, basically $55.000 worth of equipment and all of it's less than 10 years old.

    Any way, her car and mine are identical right down to the colors and trim.
    I believed should we ever have computer issues it would be best this way, plus I liked the horsepower and gas mileage.
    I dropped out from becoming a mechanic when I was 18 because I saw the light as to how much physical work goes onto making your boss rich.
    I then went into electrical engineering so I'm not afraid of reading schematics.
    Few shop manuals (car) fully explain down to board level repairs so this is where two identical cars help.

    Now it's coming to pay off, she developed a severe miss on her engine P0303, P0305, P0300.
    The 03, & 05 are for cylinders 3 and 5 retrospectively. The 0300 means one or more random misfires.
    I removed the coils on her engine, total of 6. What i found was that the coil boot extension was soaked with oil on several cylinders.
    The plugs are down the end of a very deep well ( 5 inches or so). The well on two of her cylinders were filled with engine oil for about one and half inches.

    The reason for this is that the valve cover matches the cylinder head with identical mating tunnels. The sealant where the two tunnels mate breaks down allowing seepage into the plug well.
    I own the shop manuals for our Millennia S's and it clearly shows that when reassembling the valve cover onto the engine requires silicon (a definite must).

    The reason why I'm here today is I chose to replace my plugs on my car today (just because I have 150,000 on the vehicle) not because I have a misfire though
    I suppose you might guess, I have small amounts of oil in a few wells (as well) about half an inch.
    I'm not impressed so I wanted to see how many others experienced similar problems. One google search told me this engine has problems.
    Now I can truly see the factory didn't seal these chambers up properly.
    FYI my wife's car was bought new and now has only 40,000 kms while mine was in very good shape used, it has like stated above.
    Let me tell you, the shop manuals are poor on this car but it does show the work to be very extensive.
    I've never shy'd away from work but this is a lot of BS to go through on two cars. I'm 47 and my back can't stand to be bent over for long periods of time anymore.
    One car is going to be a killer little lone two of them. It might be easier for me to just pull the engine and do the work on an engine stand.

    It must be mentioned that the boot extension can and may need to be replaced in order to get rid of the misfire. Just cleaning them up and drying them off with brake clean and a towel may not work once the spark has a new path burnt into it to follow. This might explains why Mazda Canada has hundreds of these boot extensions in stock ( at a approx. resale of $37.00 each)!!!

    The manual doesn't show the cylinder order ( that I've found yet) but it looks like cylinder one is towards the fire wall and # two is next to the rad.
    Another words it doesn't appear to go down on one bank then the other rather it crisscrosses crosses the banks. Just judging by the codes and how they were removed.

    Also I've had a code for the catalytic sensor bank 2. The previous owner had it replaced twice before I bought it.
    I have a heavy foot so I just kept resetting the code for the past year and a half till it gradually went away. Maybe my heavy foot cleaned out the exhaust, but I suspect that the previous owner ran regular gas in it instead of premium. I'm not convinced of this though.

    Also I find on a very hot day the engine losses all power on my car (always has from day one). I believe the valve or solenoid for rerouting the air intake through the front and back supercharge coolers to have failed.
    My wife's car has lots of power on the same day mine loses all of it's.

    Well so much for buying a very reliable car, although I like the gas mileage and power combo.
    Instead of having two identical cars to help troubleshoot I have two headaches now.
    Just a note, I've seen what little TTR ( Technical Troubleshooting Representatives....basically some dealership mechanics ) know about fixing today's suffocated cars so I'll never fully trust my car in a shop as long as my back holds in there.
    God forbid the day when I'll have to pay for some mindless employee to break something there supposed to be fixing. I say this very humbly, although I can tell you many horror stories I've seen and heard!
    Many people never know what goes on in fixing these suffocated cars these days. Most shops cover their mistakes by having you pay for them without ever knowing.

    Thanks for listening

    -Dj
  • hitechhitech Member Posts: 2
    Please see lower part of message #3502
  • milleniagirlmilleniagirl Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I guess I'm here because I'm desperate! :( After owning two Mazdas I have told myself "never again!"
    Getting to the point, my '99 Millenia (which I love, by the way) started having problems this last year. Mielage on it is 93k.
    First, the cd player won't play cd's. It takes it in and spits it back out. It first started happening this summer, when the player heated up..which was kind of weird because when it was cool outside it played cd's just fine. As soon as it got warm and the car/player heated up, it spits the cd out. I thought in the fall it'd get better, since the weather is cooler now..but now it won't play at all!
    Second, my check engine light has been on for some time now. I have had several things done to my car and it's still on. The first code that showed up on it was "Knock Sensor Malfunction", and I haven't tried changing that yet. But now there are 6 codes showing up, many of the same ones as user hitech (message above)!
    If there's anyone at all who had and fixed similar problems, please let me know. Or if anyone has advice on where I should post these specific problems, please reply as well.
    Thanks a lot! :)
  • mnoghostmnoghost Member Posts: 11
    i have a cold air intake on mine it helps out a little bit
  • mila1mila1 Member Posts: 1
    this is kind of funny b/c i have the same problems... i still dont know whats up with my cd player so i ordered a new one but the check engine light is a pain when i brought mine in to get fixed 7 codes came up feul, random misfire, cpu or map sensor. well of course i couldnt afford to fix all of them so the machanic recommended that we do a tune up and clean out the feul system and they reset the light and its been 4 days and still no light but when i get on it it stalls. that tells me that the map sensor is going out. i dont know if that will help you but i just thought id let you know
  • millenia97millenia97 Member Posts: 1
    I'm new to this forum and I read each and every post here in millenia forum.
    My 97 millenia is about to turn in 109K miles and runs well.Other than regular oil changes and a tranny flush(redline synthetic ATF works alot better) I did not have any problems with it. Lately I have noticed a clicking noise or knocking depending on the bump and especialy when going slow under breaking in the right rear it sounds like a suspention and was wondering if any of you guys know what is causing it>?
    I had front stablizing links replaced they were making clicking noise.
    Are there any such links in the back>?

    Btw love this car :)
  • kherrmannkherrmann Member Posts: 10
    Could be a vaccuum leak. The little plastic "T"'s on the vaccuum lines get hot and crack.

    Karl
  • jazzyman26jazzyman26 Member Posts: 18
    I think the engine will last 250,000 or more.I know a person that has 300,000 miles
    with the original motor.
  • jazzyman26jazzyman26 Member Posts: 18
    If anyone had a problem with a CD stuck in the CD player?This is the first for me
    What suggestion does anyone have? I tried the eject button to no avail.Going to the dealer is a last resort.If anyone have any info please share.
  • jerrym7jerrym7 Member Posts: 1
    Last summer, the sensor light for my check engine light malfunctioned causing the check engine light to stay on. There was nothing wrong with the car. After $550, the light was repaired. This morning it went on again. Now I wonder if this is the same situation again. Anyone have this problem?
  • ivbd85ivbd85 Member Posts: 5
    I own a 2002 Millenia with roughly 52,000 miles. Last Saturday, October 30, I took the car to my local shop for a routine oil change. While there, the mechanic notified and showed me that the transmission was leaking slightly. He checked the current level and condition of the fluid via, the dipstick. He said it was not a major problem, no rush to fix it, but I should bring it back within the week. A week has passed and I didn't take the car back to the local shop. Driving back to campus today, Sunday, November 6, I noticed the Check Engine Light was on. Before I waste time and schedule an appointment with an "Authorized Mazda Dealer" could this warning light be because of the transmission leak?
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Member Posts: 992
    Personally i think the problem happens in hot humid areas with lots of hills. What type of gas do you guys use? The check light came on here to when i used regular. I got it serviced and it went off. It also happened with priemum. Currently i use plus and all is fine :) . (99 with 150k miles)
  • osteodocosteodoc Member Posts: 1
    I am considering buying a 2002 millenia with 18,000 miles. Are there any trouble areas or special concerns that I should have? Am I better off with the "S" edition? I heard that this engine should be avoided. Is this true? What are the actual MPG have you gotten with this car.
  • claudevclaudev Member Posts: 1
    my millenia stall engine driveway,idle...afther 1 min or 3 min if restart I change (distributeur,coil,filtre gaz,sonde temperature, clean injector,change sparkplug....I cannot any more what make help me! :sick:

    excuse me my english
  • azmazdaownerazmazdaowner Member Posts: 1
    Steevo2 I just bought a 1999 Mazda Millenia S that from day one is shaking. While still under warranty the dealer has looked at it and found an axle cracked (told originally) but replaced the CV boot???? It normally shakes in the morning and settles down before I hit work even after the replacement. Have you found out what caused your shake? :mad:
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