Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I know this question has been asked a million times but I havent seemed to be able to find a clear answer. I apologize for asking again.
I will give some background on the car and my situation..
I have recently been handed down a 1999 Millenia S. I am having a problem with my dashboard lights which seems to be very common for these cars. My father has had issues with the Engine light over the years and was told by the dealership that we have put 94 octane to reduce engine light problems. The engine light came on from time to time with the code of the o2 sensor but normally when checked, it was fine. It got to the point where we stopped bringing it in to check the light.
Recently, I noticed while driving on a dry winter day that my brakes felt strange. I would step on the brakes lightly and the ABS clunking sounds and pulsing feel would kick in. Around that time the dashboard lights: "TCS, TCS OFF, 4w ABS" came on. It was very strange. I got the lights checked and the dealer said "there is nothing physically wrong with the brakes, I will reset the lights" they were off and less then a month later they were back on intermittently (extremely rarely do I get the ABS feel). Over a week or so ago they have started to stay on all the time. Once in a blue moon they will be cleared when i start the car but go on soon after. I also noticed that on an icy day with the lights on, the ABS and TCS are actually off, so its not only the light but the actual system.
I brought the car back to the dealer who saw those lights as well as the engine light. The dealer told me that the engine light was the o2 sensor (again). We fixed it with his assurance that this is not another bad code. The engine light is now off and the car runs fine, but the TCS lights and ABS are still on. The dealer does not know what to do and claims there is no way to scan the lights and diagnose. I dont know how the first dealer worker reset the lights last time. He says he spoke to the shop foreman who said that it would cost more then the car is worth to go through all the possibilities and just to diagnose the problem.
Any thoughts? do you guys have something I can bring back to the dealer to say "look at this"?
I appreciate the help and am sorry for the length.
Mike
Be very careful when you approach mechanics about this engine as many do not know much about it and immediately start telling you to replace things or even the whole engine. It is a very expensive engine to maintain and I would advise that you get rid of it if you can. This is a bit drastic but you have not seen cost yet. The cat converter is located in the manifold which cost $3000 to replace and used parts are almost non-existent. The dealer and some mechanics try to rip people off on the engine work. This is a good car but it is the often encountered bad diagnosis that is going to cost you an arm and a leg.
Good luck!
So your suggestions were for the engine problem... I am hopefully going to get rid of the car soon due to these issues but financially its not the best thing at this time.. So I am trying to just keep it running for a little while longer.
I am planning on switching to the lower octane for a fill up or two and see if that fixes the TCS lights as some suggested..
With all these problems with the cars, why the hell havent they recalled the damn stuff.. I find it very irresponsible of Mazda, and from a family who owns 3... I think this will lean heavily when considering a new one.
Thanks for the help
I just purchased a 02 MMS. I'm very pleased with the car and plan to keep it for some time. It has 48,000 miles and I would love to keep it in tip top shape. Would love seggestions on preventative maintenance past the normal oil changes. Based on the previous messages I have read It seams like the Miller ingine can be costly to repair. Thats actually what sold me on the car. Would love input. Thanks Jeff
I have had no serious problems. I just keep changing the oil every 5,000 miles. If and when the engine begins to start smoking that may mean that it's time to replace the turbo charger and I will trade in the car. I am a fairly cautious driver, altho I don't have any problem going 80+ from time to time, so that may help the longevity of the car (and me).
One suggestion I have is to get the OEM brake pads when you have to replace them. Mazda pads do not seem to leave as much brake dust as the aftermarket brands.
The problem with this car is that the mechanics only want to change parts or the whole engine but do not want to be responsible for their diagnosis which is always wrong at first. I spent over $1200 last year on bad diagnosis and eventually even fixed $800 worth of problems for free. All I had to do was clean motor brush residue from the motor and that was it. They wanted me to replace the motor for almost $400 plus 2 hours labor. Took me 15 minutes. The mechanics just aren't trustworthy anymore.
The bottom line is that this car is junk. For its original cost the blue book value is just about nothing today. I would advise everyone with a Mazda Millenia to move on and cut their losses. The quote to repair my car is $3400 for the engine, $2800 for the manifold with precat and $2500 for labor. The car was bought for $5000 and the blue book value is $1600-$2000. Go get a used honda or toyota before this thing break your bank account. The Ford Mustang was the last great American car. Mazda is crap!
Good Luck..
sunroof will slide open and go up or down but, have a diificut time closing the sunroof. I replaced the switch however, I have the same problem.
Any suggestions.
Now here I am in the shop with the car about three months later, replacing the catylitic converter. Get the car back and now Ive got an engine light again. Car has been acting really wierd, sometimes it will idle all the way up to 2500rpms and just stay there, like the accelerator is stuck or something.
SO yea. I want to get rid of this thing, so Im trying to trade it in for a new car.. the manager drives my car and tells me the suspension is going out and its a piece of crap car to begin with, offers me 5k for it.
Wow. Im just kind of lost on what to do now. Trade it in and take 7k onto the next car loan??
Thoughts please??
Did you ever get your sunroof fixed. I have the same problem. I replaced the switch and it did no solve the problem.
It opens goes up and down but have trouble closing the roof.
Thank you,
jjman4124
-Valve Gasket Covers
-Rear Main Seals
-Front Main Seals
-Timing Belt
-Oil Pan Gasket
The car is paid for but should I just get a new car you think? Any advice is truly appreciated,
~Patrick~
Diagnostics shows Mass Airflow Sensor problem and a MAF problem and a crankshaft position sensor problem.
Dealer wants $1100.00 for MAS $750.00 for crank shaft position sensor and $70.00 for MAF with no guarantee that this will correct the problem. It's as if a REV limiter comes into play at 2500 RPM. Any ideas ?
Wanacrz
do you all have a suggestion for when to change the timing belt?
any other comments regarding this car (had for 2 yrs) would be appreciated
thanks, w
I have the same problem and if you shut the ingnition off and put the car in neutral while driving it then turn it back on it will quit missing for another 5 minutes or so.
I think its the EMC myself. How did the dealer come to the conclusion that you needed a Crank Sensor?
THanks
Brad
Did you and Joe get your sunroofs fixed? I took my car in on 03-2006 because the sunroof would open, but wouldn't close. They replaced the switch, but I continued having problems. I got fed up and just didn't open the sunroof anymore. I took the car in this past Friday, 05-25-2007, a little over a year later, and was told the switch was not working (duh) and today, they replaced it again (but I had to pay again). I literally just got back into my office and had to leave the car with them, because when I went to pick up the car, guess what, the sunroof STILL will not close!! Any suggestions? I told the tech I believe all their switches are defective. This is the second switch in 14 months! Help!
Replaced tires at 53k.
Did 60K service.
Replaced O2 sensor at around 65K.
Replaced Exhaust Manifold at around 70K (covered under emissions warranty in California)
Replaced ignition pack at around 90K
Replaced two tires due to a flat around 90K
Replaced another two tires at 113K
All in all, in my opinion (and it's only an opinion) it has been a reliable car. 3 repairs isn't bad in my book.
Now, if you happen to be in the market for a used car and you happen to see a Millennia with 120K on it, should you buy it? Probably not. I wouldn't buy a high mileage vehicle that may cost a lot to fix, including BMWs, Mercedes, or even Lexus, unless I had about 5K in the bank in case it needed repairs. In essence, you might get lucky, you might not.
Again, it's a wonderful car,
John
FYI mine read
front right caster 4.1 specified range 1.8 degrees.
front cross caster -2.1 specified -1.0 degrees.
right rear toe .30 specified .07 degrees.
From the specs you gave and the condition, your problem was your toe-in.
So what have you hit lately?