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Mazda Millenia

1…7072747576

Comments

  • ksan71ksan71 Member Posts: 5
    :sick: I have a peculiar problem that has me dumbfounded. About 8 mos ago, my check engine light came on and the "TCS OFF" light with no apparent antecedent. The engine would idle at about a 100-150 less RPM than normal. I'd be in stop and go traffic and the car would just shut off. and it wouldn't start for about 2-3 minutes. Then it would start up and would drive like a charm. Took it to my mechanic who reset the chk eng. light and then the light shut off (he didn't give me the one code that came up). 20 minutes later the light came back on. He suggested that I lower the octane to 89 since I was always filling up with 93. After a while (a week) that kind of fixed the issue and then the light came back on. And I'd be driving on the highway and the car would just shut down. Tried starting the car in Nuetral and it wouldn't startl. Finally I would stop on the shoulder put the car in park and it would start right up. The car would again run like a charm however the check engine light would stay on and the "TCS OFF" light off. Then I noticed something peculiar. I noticed that when I was less than a 1/2 tank full the check engine light would shut off. But as soon as I filled up with 89 the check engine light would come on and I would have these stall bouts on the highway and not in stop and go traffic. I also noticed when I would use a Fuel Cleaner it would stop for the length of tank of gas. Don't know what to do? Have taken it to my mechanic twice and he can't figure it out.. Anyone?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Well what code is tripping the CEL? I'd start with that. Of course, the millenia has complicated fuel tank system and it sounds like there could be a problem with the evaporative emission system on it.
  • chach2667chach2667 Member Posts: 1
    My 95 Millenia has 211,000+ miles on it. I have had some major repairs last year, but cannot bring myself to get rid if it! This morning, the hold light starting flashing. What does that mean? Am I in for another $$$ major repair??
  • cruzmaster11cruzmaster11 Member Posts: 4
    I Have the same concern on my car funny things is that I am a Ford Technician "A" .. I Deal with this stuff all day long it just easier for me because of tools that are availiable to me at the dealer!! I have really no acess for Mazda stuff. When I read your write up i was like Wow!! the same thing I am going thru everyday! i Actually drive near the shoulder in case vehicle stalls i can easily drift off the road and wait a minute a start up vehicle and go on my merry way!! While I have Acess to scanner and Retrieve codes P1195 P1521 P1522>> 1195 it a Baro/Map code which most likely won't cause a stall concern.. P1521/1522 is a idle speed control inputs control. I am kind of leaning toward a "crank sensor" At first I was leaning toward a Distributor but for over $300.00 It will be a bad guess! If you have any info on a fix Please :( pass it down!! Any Ford problems I am the Man Certified Ford Tech!!
  • cruzmaster11cruzmaster11 Member Posts: 4
    what code do you have???
  • cruzmaster11cruzmaster11 Member Posts: 4
    Have you found a fix?? I have same concern Please Help!!
  • ksan71ksan71 Member Posts: 5
    What's interesting is that I decided to do a little more research. I have found out through other Mazda owners that are experiencing the same thing, the first thing to do is to switch to strictly 89 octane.. That should do away with the TCS OFF light. Secondly, I recently found out through another forum someone that pinpointed the situation having the same symptoms as I am having.. It suggests, that the first thing you should do is check for a leak at the Air bypass valve. Some people are reporting that this is the CEL light cure for this issue.. I haven't tried it myself yet as it is freezing outside.. But If anyone can do it and it works for them let me know.. So once again, check the vacuum hoses by the air bypass valve for leaks. The hoses in question are the short hoses with about 3/4 ' diameter.
  • theshaker400etheshaker400e Member Posts: 4
    I changed my cap and rotor and the next thing you know I had the charge light come on, then the tcs on light and the tcs off light and some other lights the hold light was flashing off and on, even the dashspeed and rpm stopped working wow I had to tow the car home after it would hold a jump for more than five minutes. So what I did and it corrected the whole problem was put the old cap and rotor back on that is the most bizzar car problem Ive ever seen so it possible that all dealer parts may correct some of the overall wierd millenia problems so in turn dont just start throwing money at this car undo what you did before you were having what ever issue you are having because what I was about to do is put a altanator in and then a new battery then I would of came to the conclusion that my distributor was the fix to it all that would be 800 dollars later trust me I have sunk A ton of money into this car without the desired results
  • theshaker400etheshaker400e Member Posts: 4
    Have you had a cap and rotor recently I had a whole electrical malfunction as explained in my post "millenia owners must read" the car was fine and I put a new cap and rotor on and the car electronics went crazy not even the radio would make a sound but the thing was lit up my speedo and rpm would work the car just ran out of juice so odly enough a distributor cap and rotor from the dealer and not schucks could be the cure
  • theshaker400etheshaker400e Member Posts: 4
    read my post " millenia owners must read " May be big help to you
  • theshaker400etheshaker400e Member Posts: 4
    buy some good year tires and constantly check your tire pressure you should put in about 40-45 psi 45 is how I run and it semms to correct the problem however the tire pressure always seems to go down even know I dont have any leaks its like the car creates flat spots in the tires must be some thing to do with suspension design
  • mikeyb1mikeyb1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello All,
    I know this question has been asked a million times but I havent seemed to be able to find a clear answer. I apologize for asking again.

    I will give some background on the car and my situation..

    I have recently been handed down a 1999 Millenia S. I am having a problem with my dashboard lights which seems to be very common for these cars. My father has had issues with the Engine light over the years and was told by the dealership that we have put 94 octane to reduce engine light problems. The engine light came on from time to time with the code of the o2 sensor but normally when checked, it was fine. It got to the point where we stopped bringing it in to check the light.

    Recently, I noticed while driving on a dry winter day that my brakes felt strange. I would step on the brakes lightly and the ABS clunking sounds and pulsing feel would kick in. Around that time the dashboard lights: "TCS, TCS OFF, 4w ABS" came on. It was very strange. I got the lights checked and the dealer said "there is nothing physically wrong with the brakes, I will reset the lights" they were off and less then a month later they were back on intermittently (extremely rarely do I get the ABS feel). Over a week or so ago they have started to stay on all the time. Once in a blue moon they will be cleared when i start the car but go on soon after. I also noticed that on an icy day with the lights on, the ABS and TCS are actually off, so its not only the light but the actual system.

    I brought the car back to the dealer who saw those lights as well as the engine light. The dealer told me that the engine light was the o2 sensor (again). We fixed it with his assurance that this is not another bad code. The engine light is now off and the car runs fine, but the TCS lights and ABS are still on. The dealer does not know what to do and claims there is no way to scan the lights and diagnose. I dont know how the first dealer worker reset the lights last time. He says he spoke to the shop foreman who said that it would cost more then the car is worth to go through all the possibilities and just to diagnose the problem.

    Any thoughts? do you guys have something I can bring back to the dealer to say "look at this"?

    I appreciate the help and am sorry for the length.

    Mike
  • jayjay9jayjay9 Member Posts: 1
    Hope someone can help here. My 2002 Millenia has been stalling out at stops after a cold start for weeks and recently started sputtering at random times while driving. CEL came on so I had Mazda take a look and they replaced the connection for the Idle Valve and also the Catalytic Converter (thank god for warranty!) Still same problems and I have since had fuel line cleaned, complete tuneup, trans flushed air filter replace nothing seems to work. The CEL does not come on anymore and my mechanic cannot find a solution. Anyone else have these issues? Thanks.
  • cruzmaster11cruzmaster11 Member Posts: 4
    check coolant level my have leaky water pump causing air pockets !!!
  • mazda4life1mazda4life1 Member Posts: 3
    I recently bought a used 99 millenia s with 89,000 km and have driven it 10,000km without any problems. Recently the car started burning a large amount of oil at start up but usually only if its sat for more than an hour! What possibilities could it be?? I have researched a fare bit about the car and understand the supercharges are the most un-reliable piece on the car so, should I start with that? Please email me or reply with any information to help me with my new love...the millenia s
  • mazdaphobicmazdaphobic Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem and Mazda started replacing sensors which turned out to be very very expensive. The problem was low compression in the engine and the real cause was a timing belt mis-alignment. Cost 1500 to replace with labor at the dealer in Canada but may be much cheaper in US and at regular shop.

    Be very careful when you approach mechanics about this engine as many do not know much about it and immediately start telling you to replace things or even the whole engine. It is a very expensive engine to maintain and I would advise that you get rid of it if you can. This is a bit drastic but you have not seen cost yet. The cat converter is located in the manifold which cost $3000 to replace and used parts are almost non-existent. The dealer and some mechanics try to rip people off on the engine work. This is a good car but it is the often encountered bad diagnosis that is going to cost you an arm and a leg.

    Good luck!
  • cbdesiletscbdesilets Member Posts: 7
    I am so perplexed by this. Everything I read about the "must use Premium Gas" command from car experts say that it is only really needed in certain supercharged or turbocharged engines. Otherwise, you are wasting your money. :mad: I have a standard(non-S version) '95 Millenia. Do I really need Premium at $3.36 a gallon, or can I get by with regular or 89 octane mid-grade? It's expensive! Anyone ??!!
  • mazdaphobicmazdaphobic Member Posts: 3
    I do not know if premium is actually required by non-turbo or non-supercharged engines, however the Mazda repairs are extremely expensive so if you can pay an extra 10 cents to avoid repairs it is a good trade-off. If you have warranty you must use the correct fuel the specify otherwise you automatically voided your coverage.
  • ksan71ksan71 Member Posts: 5
    I've been using 89 octane for a very long time.. However, I did use 91 octane and found out the benefits of driving 91 are minimal. 89 has been fine for me. and not to mention it also helped take the "TCS OFF" light when it began appearing for no reason. And don't use 87 since you will hear the knock and pick and power output is crappy. Good luck..
  • mikeyb1mikeyb1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks a million for the help.. So this was the issue with the Cat. I changed the O2 sensor like they suggested and the engine light went off... until last night oddly enough. When I went to bring it back and complain, just my luck, the light turned off.. The car has a brain and it knows how to piss me off..

    So your suggestions were for the engine problem... I am hopefully going to get rid of the car soon due to these issues but financially its not the best thing at this time.. So I am trying to just keep it running for a little while longer.

    I am planning on switching to the lower octane for a fill up or two and see if that fixes the TCS lights as some suggested..

    With all these problems with the cars, why the hell havent they recalled the damn stuff.. I find it very irresponsible of Mazda, and from a family who owns 3... I think this will lean heavily when considering a new one.

    Thanks for the help
  • mazda4life1mazda4life1 Member Posts: 3
    HEy mazda freek. I also have the same problem and have been waiting for some answers myself. I have heard that it is generally the supercharger gaskets that are leaking or valve seals. Either way its expensive and a pain in the rear. Send me any info if you get it looked at.. Thanks Mazda4life1
  • mazda4life1mazda4life1 Member Posts: 3
    I recently bought a used 99 millenia s with 89,000 km and have driven it 10,000km without any problems. Recently the car started burning a large amount of oil at start up but usually only if its sat for more than an hour! What possibilities could it be?? I have researched a fare bit about the car and understand the supercharges are the most un-reliable piece on the car so, should I start with that? Please email me or reply with any information to help me with my new love...the millenia s
  • cbdesiletscbdesilets Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for your response. I usually use mid-grade, rarely use 87 octane. I think I'll continue with the mid-grade. Premium is now about $3.50 a gallon where I live, heading towards $4 !!
  • jmacneilljmacneill Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 MM 2.5L. I recently started to have power loss problems. I took it to the shop and they told me that my front pre-cat, was clogged. So I just replaced it and it didn't fix the problem. When i step on the gas, the car just bogs down, when i let up on the gas the car like releases. But when i step on it again the same problem. Any ideas???
  • monkey12monkey12 Member Posts: 1
    Ok well i bought this car and it seemed to run fine...a couple of weeks later the transmission went out...when i got it back it was stalling when i was stopped at a light...I took it back and he set the timing and it is better...But if I turn the vents on it starts stalling again...also the acceleration is not working right...I have to take it nice and slow until i reach speed limit..and can not get it to go past 60 mph...I took it to another shop and they are saying I need the timing set because it is off by 1 tooth and a bunch of other things adding up to another 1600 dollars which i don't have...so if anyone has any ideas about what it might be please let me know...I am not trying to say the mechanic is wrong...but i have heard of these kind of cars being misdiagnosed.
  • jpoorejpoore Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone,
    I just purchased a 02 MMS. I'm very pleased with the car and plan to keep it for some time. It has 48,000 miles and I would love to keep it in tip top shape. Would love seggestions on preventative maintenance past the normal oil changes. Based on the previous messages I have read It seams like the Miller ingine can be costly to repair. Thats actually what sold me on the car. Would love input. Thanks Jeff
  • logtraillogtrail Member Posts: 74
    I have a 96 "S" with 92k miles and until this week when I had to replace an axle and a crank sensor (whatever that is)
    I have had no serious problems. I just keep changing the oil every 5,000 miles. If and when the engine begins to start smoking that may mean that it's time to replace the turbo charger and I will trade in the car. I am a fairly cautious driver, altho I don't have any problem going 80+ from time to time, so that may help the longevity of the car (and me).
    One suggestion I have is to get the OEM brake pads when you have to replace them. Mazda pads do not seem to leave as much brake dust as the aftermarket brands.
  • mazdaphobicmazdaphobic Member Posts: 3
    If when you hit the gas it revs up but do not respond by accelerating then it seems like a timing belt problem. If the car loses power while driving then the engine may need to be rebuilt(egg shaped cylinders). This is based on what my mechanic told me about my car. I do not know if your car has TCS which runs off the vacuum system. A bad valve could cause this problem but you would be getting check engine light and the mechanic should get the code.

    The problem with this car is that the mechanics only want to change parts or the whole engine but do not want to be responsible for their diagnosis which is always wrong at first. I spent over $1200 last year on bad diagnosis and eventually even fixed $800 worth of problems for free. All I had to do was clean motor brush residue from the motor and that was it. They wanted me to replace the motor for almost $400 plus 2 hours labor. Took me 15 minutes. The mechanics just aren't trustworthy anymore.

    The bottom line is that this car is junk. For its original cost the blue book value is just about nothing today. I would advise everyone with a Mazda Millenia to move on and cut their losses. The quote to repair my car is $3400 for the engine, $2800 for the manifold with precat and $2500 for labor. The car was bought for $5000 and the blue book value is $1600-$2000. Go get a used honda or toyota before this thing break your bank account. The Ford Mustang was the last great American car. Mazda is crap!
  • lito1lito1 Member Posts: 1
    The check engine light came on the first day. TCS off lights comes on when I accelerate to about 60mph and car begins to jerk. I just noticed a little white smoke when I start the car for about 30 sec in the morning. I took it to a mechanic friend. His advise, "sell it, there may be hidden and serious problems, the supercharged engine is complicated". I have hard the car for a month. I am the second owner and the carfax report is clean. I am inclined to sell it,because I dont want to spend thousands of dollars for a problems that cannot be easily diagnosed and fixed. Does anyone know of a good honest mechanic in the Massachusetts area (Boston). Its hard to find one these days. I will go to Auto zone and get a computer read. What I have read so far about the S engine scares me.
  • ksan71ksan71 Member Posts: 5
    Had the same problem except my car is not a turbocharged engine.. My problem was a vacuum leak. Check the vacuum hoses for a leak. it may be so small you can't see the whole but sometimes there is cracking at the hose inlet ports. And switch your gas to 89 Octane.
    Good Luck..
  • jjman4124jjman4124 Member Posts: 2
    1999 Milliena

    sunroof will slide open and go up or down but, have a diificut time closing the sunroof. I replaced the switch however, I have the same problem.

    Any suggestions.
  • milleniaproblmmilleniaproblm Member Posts: 1
    So here I am walking down the used cars parking lot, and what do I see.. a 2002 Mazda Millenia S. Fell in love with the car the moment I seen it. Opened a loan for the car at $12k.

    Now here I am in the shop with the car about three months later, replacing the catylitic converter. Get the car back and now Ive got an engine light again. Car has been acting really wierd, sometimes it will idle all the way up to 2500rpms and just stay there, like the accelerator is stuck or something.

    SO yea. I want to get rid of this thing, so Im trying to trade it in for a new car.. the manager drives my car and tells me the suspension is going out and its a piece of crap car to begin with, offers me 5k for it.

    Wow. Im just kind of lost on what to do now. Trade it in and take 7k onto the next car loan??

    Thoughts please??
  • ksan71ksan71 Member Posts: 5
    Instead of losing 5K, spend a little more to put your TLC into it, take it to the dealer. The acceleration could be as simple as a sensor as it happened to me. And if its a computer problem, the dealer diagnostics are usually much better than a regular mechanics shop. I have a mechanic that changes the normal wear and tear items and if its a recurring problem especially with a turbocharged engine the dealer may be the best money for your buch. Imagine going to your mechanic for the same thing 2-3 times and everytime its something new. Do yourself a favor a visit a dealer service station. That's what I would do and I've owned a millenia for about 7 years now. Good Luck!!!
  • jjman4124jjman4124 Member Posts: 2
    Hello Joe,

    Did you ever get your sunroof fixed. I have the same problem. I replaced the switch and it did no solve the problem.

    It opens goes up and down but have trouble closing the roof.

    Thank you,

    jjman4124
  • phatpatphatpat Member Posts: 22
    This is what I have to get fixed on my 140,000 95 Mazda Millenia S:

    -Valve Gasket Covers
    -Rear Main Seals
    -Front Main Seals
    -Timing Belt
    -Oil Pan Gasket

    The car is paid for but should I just get a new car you think? Any advice is truly appreciated,

    ~Patrick~
  • wanacrzwanacrz Member Posts: 1
    Our 96 Millenia has started to cut out when the tach reaches 2500rpms. This happens after the car warms up, but is intermittent, some days it doesn't happen at all, other days you can't drive 2 miles and it starts to act up.

    Diagnostics shows Mass Airflow Sensor problem and a MAF problem and a crankshaft position sensor problem.

    Dealer wants $1100.00 for MAS $750.00 for crank shaft position sensor and $70.00 for MAF with no guarantee that this will correct the problem. It's as if a REV limiter comes into play at 2500 RPM. Any ideas ?

    Wanacrz
  • workingatitworkingatit Member Posts: 3
    have 62k on an '01 millenia

    do you all have a suggestion for when to change the timing belt?

    any other comments regarding this car (had for 2 yrs) would be appreciated

    thanks, w
  • 97cobra197cobra1 Member Posts: 1
    Did you get your problem fixed and if so what was the cure?
    I have the same problem and if you shut the ingnition off and put the car in neutral while driving it then turn it back on it will quit missing for another 5 minutes or so.
    I think its the EMC myself. How did the dealer come to the conclusion that you needed a Crank Sensor?

    THanks

    Brad
  • nmrnmr Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Did you and Joe get your sunroofs fixed? I took my car in on 03-2006 because the sunroof would open, but wouldn't close. They replaced the switch, but I continued having problems. I got fed up and just didn't open the sunroof anymore. I took the car in this past Friday, 05-25-2007, a little over a year later, and was told the switch was not working (duh) and today, they replaced it again (but I had to pay again). I literally just got back into my office and had to leave the car with them, because when I went to pick up the car, guess what, the sunroof STILL will not close!! Any suggestions? I told the tech I believe all their switches are defective. This is the second switch in 14 months! Help!
  • jmadams100jmadams100 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a new Millennia S back in 2000 and at 50,000 miles I posted a summary of my repair history for those who where thinking about buying one. Now I have 114K, so I think I'll do another update.

    Replaced tires at 53k.
    Did 60K service.
    Replaced O2 sensor at around 65K.
    Replaced Exhaust Manifold at around 70K (covered under emissions warranty in California)
    Replaced ignition pack at around 90K
    Replaced two tires due to a flat around 90K
    Replaced another two tires at 113K

    All in all, in my opinion (and it's only an opinion) it has been a reliable car. 3 repairs isn't bad in my book.

    Now, if you happen to be in the market for a used car and you happen to see a Millennia with 120K on it, should you buy it? Probably not. I wouldn't buy a high mileage vehicle that may cost a lot to fix, including BMWs, Mercedes, or even Lexus, unless I had about 5K in the bank in case it needed repairs. In essence, you might get lucky, you might not.

    Again, it's a wonderful car,
    John
  • lambster44lambster44 Member Posts: 8
    Good news for me! Had the MAP sensor replaced and nave not had a problem since. That was probalby 600 miles ago. I have waited to post a success story until it looked like it was not going to re-occur. One thing about my situation was that the engine light never came on. Reason: it had been removed. This seemed to cause problems for the correct code to be logged. Good luck.
  • cbdesiletscbdesilets Member Posts: 7
    I agree. The Millenia is one of the most reliable cars on the used car market. My repairs have been minor, and I now have 186K on it. :)
  • matttwitchellmatttwitchell Member Posts: 5
    I have read a report from alldata.com that you do not actually need to do this until about 100K miles. Slide under you car and check your belts for wear and cracks. Don't see any? Don't do anything to them. This is an expensive replacement/repair on this car so be prepared if yo uhave to have it done. If you have the ability to do it yourself, do so.
  • matttwitchellmatttwitchell Member Posts: 5
    pour 2 oz of acetone in your tank and this will boost your octane (acetone's octane rating is 150) as well as provide better mileage and clean any and all varnish from your injectors. I have been doing this for a year with no ill effects and avg 32-35 mpg on the highway despite the MM-S rating of 28 mpg.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    There's quite a bit of debate regarding using acetone as a fuel additive. Be sure to educate yourself on the risks and/or benefits before doing so.
  • lfgib0919lfgib0919 Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 1997 Millenia S. Noticed a disconnected vacuum hose on the Air Bypass valve (APV)accuator on top of manifold. Well connected it back and started having major issues (short circuits and such). Think it may have been disconnected by previous owner to avoid added costs before selling (typical with used cars). If this sound familiar to anyone please share. I am lost.....The only option that I know of is to have accuator replaced. I had it disconnected car still runs.
  • anglsmileanglsmile Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem traveling from CA to MD last week in my 1995 Mazda Millenia S. The problem started in just outside of Rocksprings WY. When the car was checked out I found that my right tire was distroyied. The car then was computer alinement scanned and was told that the CASTERs were off balanced. The problem with that is there were no instructions on how to adjust the casters. I replaced the two front tire had the car computer alingment as best as possible and continued home without a problem. Now that I am at home I am in search of the price to just replace the caster.
    FYI mine read
    front right caster 4.1 specified range 1.8 degrees.
    front cross caster -2.1 specified -1.0 degrees.
    right rear toe .30 specified .07 degrees.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    If your caster is off, your problem is likely a bent strut or control arm.

    From the specs you gave and the condition, your problem was your toe-in.

    So what have you hit lately?
  • jadakiss1977jadakiss1977 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Mazda Millenia with 198,000 miles on it and the 2.5 L V6 and as im driving on the freeway or even the side streets sometimes, the car will jerk forward like theres a clog in the fuel line or something. Sometimes I hit the gas and it still jerks whether at 70 miles per hour and then it will go away. It even does this when the cruise control is on. Also, when I come to a stop the engine will die sometimes. It usually restarts after one turn of the ignition but sometimes it requires 2 or 3 turns to get started again. Does anyone know why im having this problem and how I can fix it? I tried putting in a full tank of premium gas and also those fuel system cleaners but neither helped the problem. Today I replaced the fuel filter and I havent driven it enough to see if that fixed the problem. I also rebooted the fuel system, for lack of a better term, by pulling out the fuel system chip in the fuse box as the car was running so it would die and then putting the chip back in as it says to do in Chiltons repair manual. Can anyone help me please and let me know what else I can do? Do you think it could be the fuel pump that I need to replace if replacing the fuel filter didnt work? Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do or what maybe causing this? Im goin crazy here. Thank you!
  • jadakiss1977jadakiss1977 Member Posts: 2
    Ok so putting in a new fuel filter didnt correct the problem. Im thinking it must be the mass air flow sensor or an O2 sensor thats out. The check engine light has been on since i bought the car back in October of 2006 and they ran a diagnostic test on it and said that the mass air flow sensor was out. Does anyone know if this is hard to change? Does anyone else have any other ideas as to what it could be? Maybe its a problem in the throttle body? help please
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