Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Second, I am also interested in the discussion of the Goodyear GSD tires. My stock Dunlop SP 8000s did fine, and I would say I got about 22K miles out of them so far (I had snows on from November until a couple of weeks ago), but I want to try something else. Thanks.
Regarding tires, I'm still on my snows. :-( What with the travel schedule, and then knocking a wheel weight off of a rim last weekend (more on that later) while I was cleaning the summer set, I'm going to have to wait until Monday (when I fetch the summer set back from being rebalanced) before I can put the OEM set back on. As for your 540i, I too would be more than a little leery about going to 19" wheels given the condition of roads in the NYC metro area. That could get expensive fast.
As a suggestion, you could either re-mount your winter set when your existing tires are done, and send that outfit your OEM wheels for polishing or wait until next fall and have your wheels polished then.
Regarding tires, I've been spending some time over on the "Tires, tires, tires" discussion, and found that there are a few regulars there that actually sell tires (including one from TireRack.com) and/or race regularly. Needless to say, there is lots of irrelevant information floating around over there (vis-a-vie 5-Series BMW anyway), however, a number of folks seem to think that the hot setup is to run the Yokohama AVS ES100 tires, as they stack up reasonably well with the Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Position tires at only 64% of the cost. Their reasoning goes like this, "I can now afford to drive harder because these tires cost so much less." Also, depending upon who you listen to, the ES100s are some of the quietest tires out there, something that almost all E39 SP owners are interested in. ;-)
So, what to do, pop for the Goodyears, or give the Yokos a shot. By all accounts, both tires are far superior to the OEM Michelin Pilot Primacys that I will be running as of Monday. Now, on to the wheel weight; as I was cleaning some of the brake grime off of my rims with a wheel brush and some wheel cleaner, a very small weight on the inside edge of the wheel fell off. :-/ After finishing the cleaning process, I loaded all four wheels into the Green Monster (our 1998 3.8 Caravan errand/utility vehicle) and headed for our local BMW specialty shop. Unfortunately he was too busy to fit me in as he was preparing for a race, so I had to leave the wheels. When I told him what happened, without even looking at the wheels he asked me, “Was it a weight on the inside edge of the wheel?” “Yup.” “Yeah, that happens all of the time, in most cases just from normal driving around.” I was a little surprised, especially considering the fact that I had to knock off several fairly sizeable bits of asphalt that heat, stickiness and centrifugal force had conspired to attach to the inside of my rims. I figured that the centrifugal forces would hold the weights on basically forever.
I told you all of that to say this, Riez is always harping at us to get our wheels balanced and our cars aligned yearly, and here is just another reason to do so.
Best Regards,
Shipo
diver110... Congrats on the '01 540ia. Does it (hopefully) have the Sport Pkg? The 540ia Sport has the numerically higher 3.15:1 final drive ratio (versus the 2.82 on the non-Sports). Believe the 3.15 is same as in E39 M5. If you change out your differential, do get LSD!!!
You should thoroughly test drive a 3.45:1 before buying. See what it does to engine RPMs at higher speeds, not to mention lowering fuel economy. If gas prices stay high, you'll pay for the 3.45:1 at the pump! Keep in mind that the EPA rated the 540ia Sport at only 21 mpg highway; it was clobbered with a decent gas guzzler penalty. A 3.45:1 final drive likely would lower that to 19 or 20 mpg.
LSD is an acceleration enhancer. It helps both off the line as well as while accelerating in corners. With an open (i.e., non-LSD) differential, power goes to the wheel spinning the fastest. So if a wheel is just spinning (say on ice) that wheel gets all the power (which is thus wasted). Wheels spin at different speeds while cornering.
540ia means a 540i with automatic transmission ("a" = AT). This is just an identifier that people use. BMW doesn't actually label their cars with an "a".
The Sport Pkg gets you the Sport seats, the 3-spoke M-steering wheel, shadowline trim, 3.15:1 differential, high performance summer tires, revised suspension set up, etc.
If you have a 540ia Sport, I would NOT spend $8K just to get a Dinan differential. I'm not a big fan of expensive mods, even Dinan ones. Though Dinan are some of the best.
540iA -- Base 540i with an automatic transmission
540iA SP -- 540i with the Sport Package and the Automatic transmission
540i6 -- 540i with the 6-Speed manual gearbox and the Sport Package
As for LSD, that stands for "Limited Slip Differential", which is a rear end that drives the wheel with the most grip as opposed to the default setup that drives the wheel with the least grip. As for the mechanical method to achieve this, there are at least two or three methods that I have read about over the years, and basically it is a marvelous arrangement of gears and clutches.
Regarding how the Dinan 3.45 rear end is able to increase power by 10 percent, it is quite simple, the higher the axle ratio is, the faster the engine spins in any given gear at any given speed. It's just like driving around in a slightly lower gear all of the time. Hmmm, $8,000 for the 3.45 LSD? Ouch, that's a bit steep.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Thoughts?
Congratulations.. boy, when you said you were thinking about trading, you weren't kidding.. I wouldn't waste money upgrading the rear differential... You won't get anything out of it come trade-in time, and only a little out of it in the meantime. Enjoy your "new" car!!
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
I'm not sure this is a bad thing... I'm not even sure how I feel about it..
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Best Regards,
Shipo
I hereby nominate Postoak an honorary "BMW 5-Series" poster. Anyone second the motion?
Regarding the Yokos, well, you've just iced it for me, no Yokos in my future.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I was not going to rush into the 3.45 differential in any event, and I will give it some more thought. There are some circumstances when I would like a little more kick out of the car, but perhaps it is wiser to leave well enough alone.
Can I stay? Huh? Can I? Please?
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Best Regards,
Shipo
The SP provides better tires than a base 5 Series. Bet he was riding on mediocre all-season tires. Remember, an all-season tires does nothing very well.
15th link down with Alpina 3.0 litre B7 (155 mph, 0-100 mph 13.7 seconds) & 3.5 litre B7S (162 mph) 5 series cars, fastest 4 door cars in the world
1978-82.
http://www.e12.de/weblinks/15a05000.htm
Sadly, had the 2nd worst slalom speed (a mere 60.7 mph), though it did have 3rd best 0-60 mph time (7.2 secs) and 3rd best 1/4 mile (15.5 secs at 90.8 mph). Top speed electronically limited to 150 mph (runs on V-rated tires).
Car just didn't really stand out in any area.
Interestingly, these moderately expensive sport sedans (which ranged in as-tested price from $34,215-$54,120) ran on some horrible tires. The 530i, Jaguar S-type, and E320 ran on ContiTouringContact EcoP. The 300 ran on ContiTouringContact all-seasons. The A6 and S80 T6 ran on Michelin Pilot HX MXM4s. Even the winning Cadillac CTS ran on all-season tires (Eagle RS). Doesn't anyone put good tires on sport sedans any more? Where are the Pilot Sports? ContiSportContacts?
Such a dilemna for the consumer, who to believe.
Status & what to be seen driving vs. advertising revenue whoring. A conundrum for sure.
I am being told that BMW has gone to a lot of aluminum in the construction of the 2004's and everyone I know in the auto industry advises me to be very careful with that. Steel is stronger and in the event of any major accident any good body shop can take care of straightening steel but will probably not have the equipment to do that with aluminum. Does that concern any of you?
Secondly, I am hearing about all kinds of trouble with the "I state" (or whatever the hell it is called)--The electronic control system that shows up in the middle of the dashboard. Is anyone out there familiar with these problems?
WIll I be happy with the 525 or should I go with the 3.0 engine. I will be using the auto as a over the road cruiser.
Lastly, the salesman tells me that BMW NEVER offers any financial sales incentives to purchasers. Is this correct or a line of sales BS?
Frankly, IMO, the crazy engineering it takes to achieve that 50-50 weight balance is the reason why BMW's are quirky cars. Having long electrical lines connecting the front of the car to a battery in the back, how different alloys hold up to changes in temperature, etc. can cause weird results.
Whether the aluminum results in less safety I don't know. I think the main reason for BMW's costing so much to insure and their relatively high accident rates is that they're fun to drive so people go a little crazy in them (just because you can take a turn at 50 m.p.h. doesn't mean you should).
I am not sure how good i-drive 2.0 is. i-drive 1.0 frankly sucked. It seems from the initial response of people who have i-drive 2.0 is that it works OK and is much easier to you. However, electronics is not BMW's strength so IMO it's not a plus to have i-drive, but hey, you're stuck with it so better learn to love it.
The 2.5L engine in the 525 IMO is underpowered for the size of this car. If you go with the automatic, the response will be even more underwhelming as the slushbox will suck out some power. In the end, it's your $ and your preference as to whether the 2.5L engine is right for you.
I've heard rumors that BMW plans to go with a configuration of 3.0L engine for the base model of the 5 and a 3.5L engine for the step up, so instead of a 525 and 530, there'd be a 530, 535 and 545. However, I don't know if this rumor is true or not and maybe you can't wait a year.
With regard to discounting on BMW, your salesman is selling you a load of BS. It's all supply and demand. BMW has given incentives before, I'm sure some models have incentives now, you just have to find 'em.
In any case, good luck.
regards,
kyfdx
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
Best Regards,
Shipo
Use of aluminum/alloys in engines is practically universal in the industry and is nothing to be "very careful with". Also, rearward placement of the battery is a very common technique to balance weight distribution, with essentially no drawbacks other than having to open the back seat or truck if the battery needs service. Sorry, can't agree that any of this creates weird results. (Saugatak, not to flame, but I reserve "quirky" for Saabs and Volvos!)
Re iDrive, I don't think we're going back to dozens of buttons, and the newer version is supposedly better than the first gen. If you're interested in this particular car, I wouldn't let that dictate the decision.
While there may be some merit to the position that the 2.5 liter engine does not have enough guts for this car (esp. with a slushbox), others have found it perfectly satisfactory. And for "over the road cruising", I'm not sure you'd notice much difference. I'm already on record on this board for pointing out that if you buy a 525, you're getting the exact same chassis and looks, and very similar driving dynamics (apart from acceleration) as those who spend $5K-$15K more for a 530 or 545. Hey, nothing wrong with a "value" 5-series in my book (BTW, I've got an '02 530 with a stick). But as noted, it's your car, your dough, you drive them and decide. I would guess they will keep the current engines through the '05 models (they upped the V-8 for '04), but I do think a more powerful 6 cyl. is in the future to keep pace, the new Mercedes 3.5L V-6 puts out 268 hp.
Finally, I'd be very leery of your salesman's credibility, since it's common knowledge that BMW gave significant incentives at the end of the previous 5-series model run... Having re-read your post, I guess your salesman will respond that those incentives were to dealers (true), not purchasers, but this stuff is not secret, and the dealers of course passed the incentives onto buyers "to move these refrigerators".
And as sdg380 pointed out, you're getting the same exact chassis as the 530 and 545 and the handling and cache of the benchmark car in its class. Sure it's not as powerful as its more esteemed brothers, but it's the SAME car! So, my words of wisdom to you is this: test drive both the 525 and 530 and you decide. Afterall, it's your money. Either way, you're going to get a great car. Good luck!
Maybe you're right about the battery and alloys, but having had a 3-series myself, lots and lots of BMWs in the family (couple of uncles that do 2 year leases and switch from one BMW to the next) and since that's the car most of my friends drive and given that my bro is a mechanic, I can fully assure you that they are quirky cars.
I know for a fact that BMW does things to achieve 50-50 weight balance that are not done by anyone else. It's what gives them their precision feel but when each model line of cars has to come up with unique engineering (i.e., in some models Widget A is made of steel, in others aluminum, in other lines an aluminum/steel alloy), it makes it more difficult to standardize production processes, introduces complexity in the engineering and manufacturing, which inevitably increases the rate of quirky errors, especially as the car ages.
Frankly, I wish BMW would cut out all the crazy engineering to achieve that 50-50 weight balance and just use normal, reliable methods and produce a less quirky car, but then it would not drive like a BMW.
Fact is, there is a little bit of a tradeoff between performance and reliability. If you focus on reliability, parts standardization, production standardization, etc., your cars will be ultra-reliable but lack the fine tuning it takes to give them good road feel, i.e., like your standard Toyota and Lexus.
Hmmm, well in the case of the E39 that statement is not totally true. I know for a fact that the brakes are different. The E39 525i shares the brakes of the older 528i while the 530i shares the brakes with the 540i.
525i/528i Rotors 296x22mm (11.65 x 0.87") -- Front
525i/528i Rotors 298x20mm (11.73 x 0.79") -- Rear
530i/540i Rotors 324x30mm (12.76 x 1.18") -- Front
530i/540i Rotors 298x20mm (11.73 x 0.79") -- Rear
M5 Rotors 345 x 32mm (13.58 x 1.26") -- Front
M5 Rotors 328 x 20mm (12.91 x 0.79") -- Rear
Best Regards,
Shipo