Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Volvo S60

18485878990102

Comments

  • I don't think it will make much difference on the S60. The market will dictate the resale. The newer Altimas helped bring up the resale on the 99, 00, 01 Altimas even though the prev. generation was not up to par. On the other hand the newer 7 series was not very well received by BMW faithful and the prev generation holds better resale.

    Now that I think of it the current generation S40 is 2 or 3 times the car that the prev generation was and I think those values are holding strong. :)
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Figure the new S60 will look alot like the S80.

    Resale value on an older S60 shouldn't be affected by a new S60.
  • I have some moisture in my left headlight it is working fine is there a way to remove it or do i have to replace? S60 2001
  • bist2460bist2460 Posts: 5
    Hi, after having very rough rides with the 18" wheels, finally decided to go with the 17", Need advice, will 225/50/17 (rims 17x7) fit the 04, s60 ? And will the ride be smoother ? I was also thinking of 235/45/17 but i guess these don't fit 17x7 ?
    Thanks alot again.
    nbista
  • i'm a junior in high school. i am really looking at purchasing a used s60. i just wanted to know what y'all thought about the overall quality/workmanship of the 2001-2003 s60. i just dont want to get something that will start to fail with higher miles. I will save some money on the lower insurance rates, but if i'm going to have to spend big bucks on replacing crummy parts i will look into another vehicle. thanks guys. :blush:
  • mdwnbmdwnb Posts: 8
    Hi There,
    Don't want to burst the bubble but......the turning radius SUCKS HOT TAMALES. I have an 04' S60 2.5T with sports tuned suspension and 17" rims and the running joke is "Are we going to make it? Goodness, it is scary in tight parking garages and trying Uturns. Many, many times I cannot make a uturn. Very comfy car though. I also have a BMW 325i with sports tuned suspension and 17" rims and if you truly enjoy DRIVING, the experience...then hands down no comparison and the BMW has to win. I still love my VOLVO.
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    The 225's will fit.
    Ride probably won't be much smoother though.
    You would need to go down to a 16" to have a noticeable difference.

    235's require a 17x7.5 wheel. This is the standard size for Volvo 17"s.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371
    Our family has a 2001 S60 with 62,000 on the clock (which was bought from new) and we have the same question! The dealer where we bought the car told us that they dont have problems with high mileage S60s....So far so good, just new struts needed on warranty - as a result of lousy New York pothole filled roads.

    My sons drove/drive this car at school and college and they love it.

    If the car you buy has an extended warranty you can sleep easy....which is why we bought an extended warranty. When we sell the car the new owner will have the comfort of having up to 8 years and 100,000 coverage. I am sure that you would pay a bit more for a car with extended warranty wouldnt you?
  • dfc3dfc3 Posts: 87
    FWIW, I agree on the turning radius. I've had the S60 for 2-1/2 years. I love the comfort, reliability, pick-up, and smooth ride. But... I recently moved from a suburban area to a more congested urban area, and I just can't do the turns. I'm surprised. I drove a Volvo 240 for years, and it had the tightest turning radius around.
  • I have a S60T 2003 and the day I took it brand from the dealer I had noticed a Rattle coming from somewhere in the back left.It wasn't there on the test ride but I didn't go on rough roads.I thought it was the spare/jack making that noise and that I'd have to live with it. Today in for oil change. The mechanic took it for a test ride and asked me if I heard "that rattle in the back?" He had it up on the lift while oil was drained and took a wrench to the rear suspention nuts. There were many that he tightened and said that's probably it. I was surprised seeing some of these turning 1 to 1 1/2 times. He told me that it should have been done at the dealer while preping for sale off the truck. I was happy and thought problem solved. The mechanic took it for another test ride and said "it's still there." He then told me that the dealer should do this under the warranty. The top strut or the shock had to be tightened from the above side. I went to the dealer from there and told the service manager about this and he didn't seem surprised. He said something about the shock top rubber thing and it will be taken care of. I'm taking it in on Tues. the 28th and making sure they also look at the top strut as well. I hope to not hear that noise after that. I'll let you know. Keep the fingers crossed. Other than that the car has been a pleasure to drive. Oh yeah the driver seat get a NEW track on Tues. because of that ever sooo slight movement on stop and goes. That's about it for my Volvo.
  • Hi, all...my first post ever. I'm the happy owner of a 2004 Volvo S60-R w/all the premium/upgrade packages except ground FX, which looked to be just cladding, after all. I'm a few weeks away from swapping off the Blizzaks for new summer tires and wondered if anyone out there has any info to suggest that I should look beyond the Pirellis that came stock with the car, which were Z-rated P-Zero Rosso, 18x8 (235/40). I have no complaint with the Pirellis, but since there are other tires out there I thought I'd check on other folks' experiences with different brands. Although I'm not married to them, I've been getting my tires for years at Tire Rack, and within my parameters there (on their website, I mean), the options appear to be Dunlop, Conti, Michelin Pilot, Bridgestone Potenza, and of course the Pirellis. If I could pick up a bit more grippiness on wet, I'd be even happier, and would trade down to a V-rating for that, if necessary. Not counting their "closeout" sales on a couple of different Continentals, the price spread is only about $50 per tire, so in the overall scheme of things that's not an important factor for us. Volvo Racing's new theme is our goal: Safety Fast!
    Thanks in advance for any insights and experiences you can share.
    Tom in Albany, NY
    (I'll post this in both the "Volvo S60" and the "Tires" discussions.)
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    I replaced the Pirelli's on my R w/ Michelin Pilot Sport 2's.
    Very happy w/ them, have them on my vette as well.
    The Goodyear Eagle F1 is also supposed to be a good tire, not as pricey as the Michelins.
  • Thanks, Volvomax. I'm headed in that direction myself after reading all the user reviews on tirerack.com. The PS2 is one of the very few tires with a high score (8.6/10, I think) on the question: Would you purchase them again? A co-worker has suggested I check out discounttires.com too, so off I go to see what the competition charges for them. ($241 each on tirerack.com.)
    Tom
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Yes I would.

    Car and Driver ran a tire test a few months ago and the Goodyear finished first. Because it had the best wet grip.

    The Pilots ride better than the P Zeros and are quieter.
  • I kept hearing that rattle coming from the left rear since I bought the car. I thought it was the spare tire.My mechanic heard it on a test ride. He had the car on a lift and showed me that the bolts on the lower struts could be tightened more. He thought that it would solve the noise but not at all. I went to the dealer and the service manager heard it right away. He said "that shouldn't be." The next day my car was finished and NO MORE NOISE! They replaced both rear shocks and sway bar linkstand. I really like this vehicle even more now. I hope this helps anyone else with that mystical rattle coming from the back somewhere.
  • rparkrpark Posts: 14
    I just had an odd thing happen on my '04 s60AWD with the seat memory. My wife needed to use the car (a rare occurrence) and when I got it back, the seat memory for settings 1 & 3 (she is 2) were gone. She used her key. When I went to drive it again & found the problem, I was using my key. I then checked it with her key, hoping that would help - same thing - gone. Anyone else had this happen? I will say the "upper module" software was updated last fall for the (psychotic) rain sensing wipers; the seat memory was wiped out then when that update took place. Thanks!
  • rparkrpark Posts: 14
    Yikes! At 14.3K miles I noticed a drop of oil under my 04 S60AWD so took it in to have it checked. I also had them do the 15K service as well. I was shocked when they told me the angle gear was leaking and should be replaced; they needed to overnight in the part and would need to keep the car another day. They also said there was excessive play in the rear stabilizer links, so they replaced them as well. While I was happy that there was no cost to me (warranty), I am now worried about the reliability of this car (At 8K I had to have a front strut replaced). I don't drive the car hard, but the roads are lousy here in MA. Even so, this is the first time I have owned a car that has had such items fail. Does anyone know if the "angle gear" is a weak link in the Volvo AWD system? Any info or words of wisdom would be appreciated.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,673
    just what the heck is an angle gear?

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • Ad how does gear (a piece of metal/alloy) leak?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    The angle gear is that which transmits power from the FWD based drivetrain to the AWD rear unit.
    It is called an angle gear because it has to transmit power at a 90 degree angle.

    The gear itself doesn't leak, but the housing can. Just like a transfer case or differential.
  • confused7confused7 Posts: 25
    Hi Everyone,

    I'm very concerned with 1) safety, then 2) price, then 3) looks, and I want to spend around $25,000. Also, I'm tall and like head room and decent lumbar support.

    For safety results, I've been consulting both IIHS and Safercar.gov. The IIHS site lists rear crash tests, which is very helpful.

    I could buy a Subaru - dowdy, but great visibility - but it has no Electronic Stability Control which I gather is pretty important.

    I could buy a Saab 9-3, 2004 or 2005 models, Arc only as Linear is so maligned, but I'm worried about reliability.

    I could buy a Volvo S60 (the S40's too small) (which got strangly opposite scores from the two safety sites, namely: IIHS rated it good Front Crash, but only acceptable Side Crash, and Safercars.gov rated it 4 out of 5 stars front, and 5 out of 5 side. Anyone know if this is significant?

    I'm happy to buy a used (ideally certified, right?) model to keep the costs down, esp as I need an automatic, and would like leather seats (maybe even heated!)

    The Lexus IS 250 and the BMW 325 garnered excellent safety ratings (from IIHS) only in the 2006 (and therefore too expensive) models.

    What should I buy?

    Two more questions: should I worry that a 2005 car sold at a Saab dealership with very low miles is not 'certified'.

    Also, is there a reason to avoid buying a 'loaner', the car the dealer gave out when his customers' cars were in the shop..?

    Thank you for any advice.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,673
    i'll throw out some opinions in no particular order. ;)

    Loaner - I personally believe loaners see a very hard life. I have a loaner right now, as a matter of fact, and I'm beating the heck out of it. :)

    certified - on an '05, it doesn't exactly strike me as strange that its not certified. they most likely figure its new enough that it still has a decent amount of the factory warranty left. Certifying a car costs them extra money and, consequently, they have to get more for the car from the buyer. I'm sure, if you really wanted to, you could negotiate to have it certified if you pay a certain price (ie, "i'll pay $500 under asking price if its certified").

    what should you buy? yikes! well, if its down to the volvo vs saab, i suggest volvo. yes, i'm biased, but i've also checked out quite a few saabs in my time and always found them very cheap feeling compared to volvo.

    You can easily get a year or 2 old volvo with leather and auto within your pricerange. A fair price for a certified '05 2.5T with leather and ~15k miles should be right around $24k.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • confused7confused7 Posts: 25
    Thank you, gbrozen. You seem to know what you're talking about...

    Re the Volvo S60 then, how do you feel about a) turning radius b) remarks re engine stalling on the freeway (I've read a few complaints about this...) ?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    my .02

    loaners, contrary to popular belief most loaner cars don't get abused. We, like other dealers keep very good track of our loaners. If anyone abuses one they are cut off forever.
    Loaners involve a substantial investment for a dealership, it is in our best interests to make sure that they are free from harm. Plus most, if not all of our customers are very gentle w/ the loaner cars so abuse really isn't an issue.

    Ceritified, most 05's won't be since they aren't old enough to justify the warranty costs.

    Volvo vs Saab. No surprise I favor the Volvo.
    One, resale will be better for the Volvo
    Two, you have a bigger dealer network, better access to parts.
    Three, Saab is in decline right now, Volvo isn't. Saabs future is precarious at best. What this will do to values in the future who knows.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,673
    Frankly, turning radius doesn't bother me. There are way too many other important aspects to a car. The incredibly comfy seats in a Volvo easily overshadow taking a couple more feet to make a u-turn. ;)

    i don't know about this engine stalling problem you speak of. Maybe volvomax knows something about it.(??)

    he's right about the certified on the '05, which is the same reason I said that '05 saab wasn't certified. But, again, you could always negotiate to get something certified, if you want.

    volvomax - i didn't mean i run over children with it or something ... its the abuse you don't see that takes its toll. Hard driving (picture mario andretti on his day off) on a brand new car with no miles isn't necessarily a good thing. That is what I would worry about. Now, a DEMO car, on the other hand, could be different. People drive MUCH nicer when a salesperson is in the car with them. ;)

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • ter6ter6 Posts: 2
    Do NOT buy a SAAB

    My 2000 9-5 just went up in flames--it was a lemon and Saab refused to take responsibility--last month it was in the dealer for a service (I spent many $1,000s on repairs) and two days later, flames were shooting out of the hood --the front end burned to the ground. Thank goodness it didn't burn in my garage and take the house with it. Saab was not interested in the fire, the dealer would not refund the repair charges that apparently caused it--my insurance company is looking into suing them.
  • confused7confused7 Posts: 25
    God, very sorry to hear about your Saab... thank you for the advice... maybe passing along that info to me will bring you better luck... karma (carma?) et al...
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Posts: 371
    The problem however could be your dealer........
    ........One time after a regular service I picked up my Jensen from a snazzy "Competitive Sports Car" dealer and after a few miles noticed a thumping sound and wobbly steering. I pulled off the motorway (UK) - it was dark and I couldnt see anything and called the AA. To cut a long story short these clowns had forgotten to put on the wheels nuts. The wheels were slowly coming off the car!!!!!!
  • ter6ter6 Posts: 2
    Don't want to get too off topic, but my Saab was a horrible car--I think the dealer did have a role in the fire, however it was being checked for a recall on the electrical system so it's hard to know. I had to replace the head gasket and brake booster at about 35K--and many other major items, even the dealer commented about how lousy it was performing, but I couldn't afford to replace the car. In any case, I learned my lesson. Am looking at a Volvo, owned them before and had great luck.
  • dfc3dfc3 Posts: 87
    FWIW, I've driven Volvos as a brand loyal type for about 15 years. I just traded in my Volvo S60 (2004) for a 2006 Mercedes-Benz C280. The S60 is a fine car; never had any problems with it. My wife drives a 1998 V70 with no issues. I was always happy with Volvo. My knocks on the V70 were the hideous turning radius and the so-so visibility. The weaker 240 ran circles around the S60 in both these areas. I got spoiled. The 240 (I had one either mine or my wife's for 14 years) had a 32' turning radius; near zero problems, and great visibility. Too bad they didn't put the S60 engine into it. Just my opinion.

    Anyway... still have the V70; would recommend the S60 if you don't mind the things that bugged me.
Sign In or Register to comment.